Natural substance-based hair dyeing method
Patent Information
- Application Number
- EP2023776909
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-10-17
- Filing Date
- 2023-09-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-08-27
AI Technical Summary
Current hair dye methods using synthetic dyes, such as oxidation dyes and direct azo dyes, often damage hair and lack the ability to achieve a wide range of natural colors effectively.
A non-oxidative hair coloring process using a leaf powder of Camellia sinensis combined with one or more silver salts, where the hair is treated with a composition containing powdered Camellia sinensis and then with a silver salt solution, followed by exposure to electromagnetic radiation to achieve a variety of colors without using oxidizing agents.
This method allows for the achievement of a wider range of colors on keratin fibers, specifically human hair, while maintaining hair health by avoiding the use of oxidizing agents and synthetic dyes, resulting in long-lasting and vibrant color results.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] ,Natural substance-based hair coloring process
[0002] The invention relates to a method for dyeing keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using a leaf powder of Camellia sinensis and one or more silver salts, as well as a kit for carrying out this dyeing method.
[0003] The desire to change one's hair color is a major need for many consumers. To satisfy this need, the cosmetics industry offers a diverse range of products. Hair dyes that achieve particularly long-lasting color with high coverage are usually oxidation dyes. These use oxidizing agents that can damage the hair structure. Certain cationic direct azo dyes are also capable of achieving hair color changes with excellent fastness properties. However, these azo dyes are synthetic dyes.
[0004] A growing number of consumers are demanding hair dyes and hair coloring processes based on natural dyes, even though these products and processes are often inferior to the aforementioned products and processes in terms of fastness, coverage and color variety.
[0005] State of the art
[0006] In addition to dyeing with henna, which is obtained from the plant Lawsonia inermis, the dyeing of hair with parts of the plant Camellia sinensis, in particular with the leaves of Camellia sinensis, is also already known, see KR20090056479A.
[0007] The use of salts of certain transition metals, such as in particular the salts of silver, for natural hair coloring is also known in the prior art, see JP2013001673A, KR20150027578A or EP327345A2.
[0008] In the dyeing processes known in the state of the art using metal salts or parts of the plant Camellia sinensis, usually only a black dye is achieved.
[0009] EP3192488A1 discloses an oxidative hair coloring process using an aqueous tea powder solution for color-fixing aftercare. W02021110768A1 discloses matcha as an ingredient in a water-free dry shampoo.
[0010] The object of the present invention was to provide a process for coloring keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, using naturally occurring substances with which a wider range of color finishes can be achieved.
[0011] Surprisingly, it was found that with the staining methods and kits described in the patent claims using a leaf powder of Camellia sinensis and one or more silver salts, stainings with a wider variety of colors can be achieved.
[0012] A first subject of the present invention is therefore a process for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which comprises the following process steps in the specified order: i. providing a composition C which contains powdered leaves of Camellia sinensis in a cosmetic carrier, ii. applying the composition C to the keratin fibers to be colored, iii. allowing the composition C to act for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, iv. rinsing off the composition C, v. optionally drying the keratin fibers, vi. subsequently treating the keratin fibers with a composition S which contains an aqueous solution of a silver salt for a time of 0.5 to 60 minutes, vii. rinsing off the silver salt-containing composition S and viii. optionally drying the keratin fibers, wherein no oxidizing agents other than atmospheric oxygen are used in the process.
[0013] Effect of electromagnetic radiation on hair treated with Camellia sinensis and silver salt
[0014] Preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the keratin fibers are exposed to electromagnetic radiation following process step vii. or process step viii. This radiation exposure preferably lasts from 0.5 to 60 minutes, particularly preferably from 1 to 45 minutes, extremely preferably from 5 to 30 minutes, and further extremely preferably from 10 to 20 minutes.
[0015] A preferred electromagnetic radiation according to the invention to which the keratin fibers treated with Camellia sinensis and silver salt are exposed in the optional step (ix) of the method according to the invention is UVA / UVB radiation, particularly preferably UV / VIS radiation in the wavelength range from 200 to 800 nm, extremely preferably in the wavelength range from 290 to 700 nm. Preferred dyeing methods according to the invention are characterized in that the keratin fibers, following method step vii. or method step viii., are exposed in a method step (ix) for a period of 0.5 to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 5 to 30 minutes, extremely preferably 10 to 20 minutes, to electromagnetic radiation, which is preferably selected from UV / VIS radiation in the wavelength range from 200 to 800 nm.
[0016] UV / VIS radiation is electromagnetic radiation in the wavelength range from 200 nm to 800 nm, comprising the UV range (ultraviolet range) and the VIS range (visible range).
[0017] UV radiation (ultraviolet radiation) consists of electromagnetic waves with a wavelength of 380 to 10 nm or a frequency of approximately 790 THz to 30 MHz. The energy of a single photon ranges from approximately 3.3 eV (380 nm) to approximately 124 eV (10 nm).
[0018] The light visible to the human eye is the part of the electromagnetic spectrum with wavelengths between approximately 380 and 780 nm. Light with a wavelength of 800 nm is just visible.
[0019] Exposure to electromagnetic radiation within the meaning of the invention means, on the one hand, exposure to radiation from a natural radiation source and, on the other hand, irradiation with an artificial light source which emits the electromagnetic radiation in the desired wavelength range.
[0020] The exposure of the keratin fibers treated with Camellia sinensis and silver salt to daylight is also to be understood as exposure to electromagnetic radiation or irradiation within the meaning of the invention.
[0021] In the dyeing process preferred according to the invention, the keratin fibers to be treated are treated successively, first with Camellia sinensis and then with a silver salt, and then rinsed with water. It is preferred that the keratin fibers are dried after the final rinsing step, preferably first with a towel, then optionally with a hairdryer or a hairdryer hood, or left to air dry. Particularly preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the keratin fibers, after completion of process step viii., have a water content of 1-42 wt.%, preferably 3-30 wt.%, particularly preferably 5-25 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 8-15 wt.% water, based on their weight. After the optional drying step, the keratin fibers are exposed to electromagnetic radiation.
[0022] The source of this electromagnetic radiation can be artificial or natural. The artificial or natural electromagnetic radiation can be continuous or discontinuous. The electromagnetic radiation used is preferably light radiation in the wavelength range from 200 nm to 800 nm. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "artificial light radiation" means light radiation that differs from natural daylight, i.e., light generated by the sun. In other words, natural daylight, i.e., light generated by the sun, is not artificial light radiation.
[0023] The term "natural light radiation" means radiation whose only source of light is daylight produced by the sun.
[0024] Preferably, the hair is irradiated with natural light radiation at a wavelength in the range of 360 to 600 nm, preferably in the range of 375 to 550 nm, particularly preferably in the range of 400 to 480 nm.
[0025] Likewise preferably, the irradiation of the hair with artificial light radiation is carried out at a wavelength in the range of 360 to 600 nm, preferably in the range of 375 to 550 nm, particularly preferably in the range of 400 to 480 nm.
[0026] Preferably, the natural light radiation used has an energy quantity per unit area of up to or equal to 1 J / cm 2 , more preferably greater than 1 J / cm 2 , even more preferably in the range of 1,001 and 100 J / cm 2 , even more preferably in the range of 2 to 50 J / cm 2 , particularly preferably in the range of 3 to 10 J / cm 2 on.
[0027] Preferably, the artificial light radiation used has an energy quantity per unit area of up to or equal to 1 J / cm 2 , more preferably greater than 1 J / cm 2 , even more preferably in the range of 1,001 and 100 J / cm 2 , even more preferably in the range of 2 to 50 J / cm 2 , particularly preferably in the range of 3 to 10 J / cm 2 on.
[0028] Preferably, the natural light radiation used has a luminous efficacy of 50 to 100 lm / W (lumens per watt), preferably 70 to 85 lm / W.
[0029] Preferably, the artificial light radiation used has a luminous efficacy of 50 to 100 lm / W (lumens per watt), preferably 70 to 85 lm / W.
[0030] Preferably, the natural light radiation used has a luminous flux of 50 to 100 lm / W (lumens per watt), preferably 70 to 85 lm / W.
[0031] Preferably, the artificial light radiation used has a luminous flux of 3500 to 8000 lumens, preferably 4000 to 6000 lumens.
[0032] Preferably, the artificial light radiation is generated using a device selected from arc lamps such as xenon lamps and mercury lamps, fluorescent lamps, incandescent lamps such as halogen lamps, light-emitting diodes (LEDs), organic light-emitting diodes (OLEDs) and lasers.
[0033] Examples include Golite BLU products from Philips, the Energylight HF 3319 / 01 lamp from Philips, the Dayvia White and Messa lamps from Solvital, the Lumino Plus lamp from Laanaform, the Medibeam lamp from Medibeam, the M-LED 01 lamp from Meimed, the Lifemax Light Pod lamp from Lifemax, the Lite-Pad lamp from Reicorp, the Omnilux Clear-U and New-U lamps from Omnilux, the 1000 W xenon arc lamp from Lot-Oriel and the Camag Box 3 (4x8 W) lamp from Camag.
[0034] For the inventive application to keratin fibers, the plant leaves of Camellia sinensis are dried and ground and used as leaf powder. Preferred leaf powders according to the invention have a particle size of less than 500 pm, particularly preferably in the range of 120 pm - 200 pm, and extremely preferably in the range of 150 pm - 180 pm. Further preferred leaf powders according to the invention have a bulk density in the range of 0.20 - 0.60 g / cm³. 3 , particularly preferably in the range of 0.25 - 0.40 g / cm 3 Other leaf powders preferred according to the invention have a moisture content of less than 10% by weight, preferably 0.1-6.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2-3.0% by weight. The moisture content is determined after 3 hours of drying at 105°C.
[0035] Further compositions C preferred according to the invention for treating keratin fibers are characterized in that the leaf powder of Camellia sinensis has a particle size of less than 500 pm, particularly preferably in the range of 120 pm - 200 pm, extremely preferably in the range of 150 pm - 180 pm, and also a bulk density in the range of 0.20 - 0.60 g / cm 3 , particularly preferably in the range of 0.25 - 0.40 g / cm 3 and, based on its weight, has a moisture content of less than 10 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 6.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 - 3.0 wt.%.
[0036] The Camellia sinensis leaves contained in a composition C preferably used according to the invention can preferably be matcha. Matcha refers to green tea leaves ground into powder, obtained from the Camellia sinensis plant. Green tea leaves used to make matcha are harvested from tea bushes that are shaded approximately four weeks before harvest. For this purpose, the tea bushes are covered with opaque nets, which extends the ripening time. This results in a dark green leaf. After harvesting, the green tea leaves are steamed and dried. After removing all coarse leaf vessels, the fine leaf tissue or leaf flesh is ground into a fine powder, matcha. Matcha, which is preferably used according to the invention, is water-soluble.
[0037] Dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the leaf powder of Camellia sinensis is present in an amount of 0.2-50 wt.%, preferably 0.5-20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.8-10 wt.%, extremely preferably 1-2 wt.%, based on the weight of composition C. Dyeing processes particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that matcha is present in an amount of 0.2-50 wt.%, preferably 0.5-20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.8-10 wt.%, extremely preferably 1-2 wt.%, based on the weight of composition C. Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the Camellia sinensis-containing composition C has a pH of 2.0 to 8.0, preferably of 2.5 to 7.5, particularly preferably of 3.0 to 7.0, in each case measured at 20°C.
[0038] Preferred dyeing methods according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one silver salt with which the keratin fibers are treated after treatment with Camellia sinensis is selected from silver nitrate, silver sulfate, silver citrate, silver dihydrogen citrate, silver lactate, silver acetate, silver malate, silver succinate, silver tartrate, silver mandelate, silver salicylate, silver gluconate, silver adipate, and silver galactarate, as well as mixtures of these salts. Extraordinarily preferred silver salts according to the invention are selected from silver nitrate, silver sulfate, silver citrate, silver dihydrogen citrate, and silver lactate, as well as mixtures of these salts.
[0039] Particularly preferred dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one silver salt is present in a total amount of 0.05 - 2 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 - 0.8 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition S.
[0040] Dyeing processes which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one silver salt is present in a total amount of 0.05 - 2% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 1.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 - 0.8% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition S, wherein the silver salt is selected from silver nitrate, silver sulfate, silver citrate, silver dihydrogen citrate, silver lactate, silver acetate, silver malate, silver succinate, silver tartrate, silver mandelate, silver salicylate, silver gluconate, silver adipate and silver galactarate, and from mixtures of these salts.
[0041] Further dyeing processes which are extraordinarily preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one silver salt is present in a total amount of 0.05 - 2 wt.%, preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 - 0.8 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition S, wherein the silver salt is selected from silver nitrate, silver sulfate, silver citrate, silver dihydrogen citrate and silver lactate, and from mixtures of these salts.
[0042] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the silver salt-containing composition S has a pH of 2.0 to 8.0, preferably from 3.0 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 4.0 to 7.0, extraordinarily preferably from 4.5 to 5.0, in each case measured at 20°C. In a preferred embodiment of the dyeing process according to the invention, the desired pH of the aqueous compositions (C) or (S) is adjusted independently of one another using an acid or a base. Preferred acids are selected from citric acid, lactic acid, gluconic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, galactaric acid (mucic acid), tartaric acid, malic acid, sulfuric acid, and phosphoric acid, as well as mixtures of these acids. Preferred bases are sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, arginine, lysine, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and mixtures of these bases.
[0043] In a further preferred embodiment of the dyeing process according to the invention, the desired pH of the aqueous compositions (C) or (S) is adjusted independently of one another with the aid of a buffer system selected from a mixture of a medium-strength or weak acid with its conjugate or corresponding base (or the respective salt) and a mixture of a medium-strength or weak base with its conjugate or corresponding acid.
[0044] According to the invention, preferred suitable corresponding acid-base pairs are those which stabilize the aqueous compositions (C) or (S) used according to the invention independently of one another in the pH range from 2.0 to 8.0, preferably from 2.5 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 3.0 to 7.0, in each case measured at 20°C.
[0045] Particularly preferred buffer systems according to the invention for the aqueous composition (C) used according to the invention are selected from
[0046] - Ammonia / ammonium salt mixtures, wherein the ammonium salt is preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium acetate, ammonium glycolate, ammonium gluconate, ammonium tartrate, ammonium lactate, and mixtures of these ammonium salts, particularly preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, and ammonium carbonate, extremely preferably selected from ammonium chloride,
[0047] - mixtures of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, in particular the alkali metal salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate, particularly preferably the sodium salts and / or the potassium salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate,
[0048] - mixtures of alkali metal bicarbonate with alkali metal carbonate, in particular mixtures of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate,
[0049] - mixtures of citric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal citrates, in particular the sodium salts, in particular trisodium citrate, - mixtures of tartaric acid and its salts, in particular the alkali metal tartrates, in particular the potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen tartrate,
[0050] - mixtures of phthalic acid and its salts, in particular potassium salts, in particular potassium hydrogen phthalate,
[0051] - mixtures of lactic acid and its salts, in particular lactic acid / sodium lactate mixtures,
[0052] - mixtures of gluconic acid and its salts, in particular gluconic acid / sodium gluconate mixtures,
[0053] - mixtures of succinic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen succinate and disodium succinate, and
[0054] - mixtures of malic acid and its salts, in particular the sodium salts, in particular sodium hydrogen malate and disodium malate, and
[0055] - Ammonia / ammonium salt mixtures, wherein the ammonium salt is preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium acetate, ammonium glycolate, ammonium gluconate, ammonium tartrate, ammonium lactate, and mixtures of these ammonium salts, particularly preferably selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, and ammonium carbonate, extremely preferably selected from ammonium chloride.
[0056] Other buffer systems, such as acetic acid / sodium acetate, are also suitable in principle according to the invention. However, due to the vinegar odor, such a buffer is not acceptable for the production of a commercial cosmetic product.
[0057] To vary the pH, further preferred dyeing agents and dyeing processes according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous compositions (C) or (S) independently of one another contain a buffer system for pH adjustment, selected from a mixture of a medium-strength or weak acid or base with its conjugate or corresponding base or corresponding acid.
[0058] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous compositions (C) or (S), independently of one another, contain a buffer system selected from an ammonia / ammonium salt mixture for pH adjustment in the basic range. Preferred ammonium salts that buffer the strongly basic pH of the aqueous ammonia solution to a less basic pH are selected from ammonium chloride, ammonium bromide, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium acetate, ammonium glycolate, ammonium gluconate, ammonium tartrate, ammonium lactate, and mixtures of these ammonium salts. Ammonium chloride, ammonium hydrogen sulfate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium bicarbonate, and ammonium carbonate are particularly preferred. Ammonium chloride is extremely preferred.
[0059] In principle, other buffer systems are also suitable.
[0060] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the aqueous compositions (C) or (S) independently of one another contain a buffer system selected from a hydrogen phosphate salt / dihydrogen phosphate salt mixture for pH adjustment. Suitable salts are the sodium salts and the potassium salts of hydrogen phosphate and dihydrogen phosphate. With hydrogen phosphate salt / dihydrogen phosphate salt mixtures, pH values in the range from 7.1 to about 8.2 can be adjusted.
[0061] For higher pH values, mixtures of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate are suitable. Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the aqueous compositions (C) or (S) independently of one another contain a buffer system selected from a mixture of sodium or potassium bicarbonate with sodium or potassium carbonate for pH adjustment. Suitable salts are the sodium salts and the potassium salts of bicarbonate and carbonate. With bicarbonate salt / carbonate salt mixtures, pH values in the range from about 9.0 to about 11.0 can be adjusted.
[0062] The specialist can obtain the appropriate weights of buffer salts to adjust the desired pH value from the relevant manuals.
[0063] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the aqueous compositions (C) or (S) independently contain an acid or a base for pH adjustment, without the respective corresponding base or acid being present. The aforementioned acids and bases are also suitable for this purpose according to the invention.
[0064] Compositions C and S used according to the invention contain the respective obligatory component, i.e., the powdered leaves of Camellia sinensis or the at least one silver salt, in a cosmetic carrier. In a first preferred embodiment according to the invention, the carrier is water. Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the Camellia sinensis-containing composition C contains water in an amount of 30.0-99.8 wt.%, preferably 50.0-98.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 70.0-90.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 80.0-86.0 wt.%, based on the weight of composition C.
[0065] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the silver salt-containing composition S contains water in an amount of 30.0 - 99.8 wt.%, preferably 50.0 - 98.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 70.0 - 90.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 80.0 - 86.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition S.
[0066] To optimize the applicability of Compositions C and S and their residence time on the keratin fibers, it is preferred that Compositions C and S have a thickened consistency. Preferably used Compositions C and S are, each independently of one another, preferably in the form of a gel, cream, or paste. Such carriers ensure a homogeneous distribution and a sufficient residence time of Compositions C and S on the keratin fibers.
[0067] Compositions (C) and (S) used according to the invention and preferably according to the invention may optionally contain further additives to optimize the application properties of these compositions. Preferred additives are, in particular, thickeners, which ensure that compositions (C) and (S) adhere better to the hair during application.
[0068] Compositions (C) and (S) used particularly preferably according to the invention contain, each independently of one another, at least one or more hydrophilic thickeners, preferably selected from polysaccharides that may be chemically and / or physically modified. Compounds from the group of polysaccharides are particularly preferred as hydrophilic thickeners according to the invention, since the basic structures of the polysaccharides are of natural origin and biodegradable.Preferred hydrophilic polysaccharide thickeners are selected from celluloses, cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols, cellulose esters, xanthan gum, alginic acids (and their corresponding physiologically acceptable salts, the alginates), agar agar (with the polysaccharide agarose present in agar agar as the main component), starch fractions and starch derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, karaya gum, locust bean gum, gum arabic, pectins, dextrans and guar gum and mixtures thereof.
[0069] Cellulose ethers of C1-C4 alcohols and cellulose esters preferred according to the invention are selected from methylcelluloses, ethylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses (such as, for example, hydroxyethylcellulose), methylhydroxyalkylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses (such as those with the INCI name Cellulose Gum), as well as their physiologically acceptable salts. In preferred embodiments, xanthan gum is included as a hydrophilic thickener for reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application to keratin fibers and the scalp. In further preferred embodiments, carboxymethylcellulose (preferably sodium carboxymethylcellulose with the INCI name Cellulose Gum) is included as a hydrophilic thickener for reliable viscosity adjustment and residue-free application to keratin fibers and the scalp.In a preferred embodiment, carboxymethylcellulose can be included as the sole hydrophilic thickener. A combination of sodium carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose is particularly preferred. The combination of sodium carboxymethylcellulose and xanthan gum can also be preferred according to the invention.
[0070] Compositions (C) and (S) which are particularly preferably used according to the invention contain, in each case independently of one another, at least one hydrophilic thickener in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 3.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1.2 to 2% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the respective composition (C) or composition (S).
[0071] Compositions (C) and (S) used particularly preferably according to the invention contain, each independently of one another, at least one organic solvent having a phenyl group in the molecule. This solvent is preferably selected from phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Surprisingly, it has been found that such aromatic solvents can have a positive effect on the dyeing results of the dyeing process according to the invention; this has been observed in particular when composition (C) contains such an aromatic solvent.
[0072] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions (C) preferred according to the invention contain, in each case based on their weight, 0.1 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.8 to 1.0 wt.%, of at least one organic solvent which has a phenyl group in the molecule. In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions (C) according to the invention contain, in each case based on their weight, 0.1 to 3 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt.%, more preferably 0.8 to 1.0 wt.%, of at least one organic solvent selected from phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
[0073] Further compositions (C) and (S) which are particularly preferably used according to the invention contain, in each case independently of one another, at least one aliphatic solvent selected from C1-C4 alkanols and C2-C12 polyols, in particular selected from ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol, and mixtures of these solvents. Further compositions (C) and (S) which are particularly preferably used according to the invention contain, in each case independently of one another, at least one aliphatic solvent selected from C1-C4 alkanols and C2-C12 polyols, in a total amount of 0.01-60% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-20% by weight, extraordinarily preferably 1-10% by weight, further preferably 2-5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the compositions (C) and (S).
[0074] Other compositions (C) and (S) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they, each independently of one another, do not contain an aliphatic solvent selected from C1-C4 alkanols and C2-C12 polyols.
[0075] Compositions (C) and (S) which are particularly preferably used according to the invention contain, each independently of one another, at least one oil. Preferred cosmetic oils are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from paraffin oils, C18-C130-isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, C5-C16-isoparaffins, and 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)cyclohexane; the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C5-C22-alkanols; fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated; triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C5-C10-fatty acids, in particular natural oils; the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10-alkanols;the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2 - 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2 - 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated; the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C5-22-alkanols; the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols; the O8-O22 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric O2-O7-hydroxycarboxylic acids; the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with O3-22-alkanols, O3-22-alkanediols or O3-22-alkanetriols; the esters of dimers of unsaturated C12-C22 fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monohydric linear, branched, or cyclic C2-C18 alkanols or with polyhydric linear or branched C2-C6 alkanols; silicone oils and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
[0076] Further compositions (C) and (S) which are particularly preferably used according to the invention contain, each independently of one another, at least one surfactant or one emulsifier.
[0077] Surfactants and emulsifiers within the meaning of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds consisting of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety. The hydrophobic radical is preferably a hydrocarbon chain with 8-28 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. This 08-028 alkyl chain is particularly preferably linear. Basic properties of the surfactants and emulsifiers are oriented absorption at interfaces, aggregation into micelles, and the formation of lyotropic phases. When selecting surfactants suitable according to the invention, it may be preferable to use a mixture of surfactants in order to optimally adjust the stability of the compositions (C) and (S) used according to the invention, each independently of one another.Preferred surfactants and emulsifiers are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers as well as mixtures of these substances.
[0078] Further compositions (C) and (S) which are particularly preferably used according to the invention contain, each independently of one another, at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 - 30 carbon atoms.
[0079] Preferred linear saturated alkanols having 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular having 16-22 carbon atoms, are selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and lanolin alcohol, as well as mixtures of these alkanols. Particularly preferred alkanol mixtures according to the invention are those obtainable from the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids. The total amount of at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12-30 carbon atoms is preferably 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 0.5-16.5% by weight, and particularly preferably 3-10% by weight, based in each case on the weight of composition (C) or (S).
[0080] Preferred kits and staining methods according to the invention are further characterized in that no hydrogen peroxide is used in them.
[0081] With regard to further preferred embodiments of the staining methods according to the invention, what has been said regarding the kit components composition (C) and composition (S) according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
[0082] In order to preserve the hair-protecting potential of natural dyes, the claimed method is preferably limited to those methods in which the keratin fibers have not been treated with an oxidizing agent within a period of up to 7 days prior to the application of the compositions (C) and (S) used according to the invention.
[0083] Oxidizing agents commonly used in hair cosmetics, but which are not intended to be used in hair treatments according to the invention, even as pretreatments, include hydrogen peroxide, persulfates, perbromates, percarbonates, perborates, and percarbamides. The oxygen contained in ambient air does not constitute an oxidizing agent in the context of the invention.
[0084] In order to preserve the hair-protecting potential of natural dyes, preferred methods according to the invention are limited to those methods in which the keratin fibers have not been treated with a keratin-reducing compound within a period of up to 7 days prior to the application of the compositions (C) and (S) used according to the invention.
[0085] The keratin fibers are preferably dried after rinsing out compositions (C) and (S). Drying can be carried out without actively applying heat. However, drying can also be carried out with the application of heat at a temperature of 25-120°C, particularly preferably at a temperature of 30-80°C, and extremely preferably at a temperature of 35-60°C. Heat is preferably applied using a heat lamp, a drying rod, a hair dryer, a straightening iron, or a hair dryer.
[0086] After the respective rinsing steps, the keratin fibers can be dried with an absorbent cloth, such as a towel. Towel-dried hair can optionally be partially or completely dried with a hairdryer or other heat source. Allowing the keratin fibers to air dry is also possible.
[0087] A further feature of the dyeing process according to the invention is that the composition (C) is allowed to act on the keratin fibers after application thereto for a period of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 20 to 35 minutes, extraordinarily preferably 25 to 30 minutes.
[0088] After the exposure time for composition (C) has elapsed, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to wash out composition (C).
[0089] A further feature of the dyeing process according to the invention is that, after application to the keratin fibers, the composition (S) is allowed to act thereon for a time of 0.5 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 45 minutes, particularly preferably 20 to 35 minutes, extremely preferably 25 to 30 minutes.
[0090] After the exposure time for the composition (S) has elapsed, the keratin fibers are rinsed with water to wash out the composition (S).
[0091] Further dyeing processes preferred according to the invention are characterized in that no oxidation dye precursors are used in them. Typical oxidation dye precursors are p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 2-(2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, Bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophen- oxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo-[1,2-a]-pyrazol-1-one, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol,3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophenoxy- ethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-Dichlor-3- aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-di- aminophenoxy)propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 1 ,3-Bis(2,4-diamino- phenyl)propan, 2, 6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4- methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methyl- phenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-dimethylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Mor- pholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxyethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1-Amino-3- bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol, Resorcin, 2-Methylresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, 1 ,2,4-Trihydroxy- benzol, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-di- methylpyridin, 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin, 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-on, 1-Naphthol,1 ,5- Dihydroxynaphthalin, 2,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1 ,7-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 1 ,8-Dihydroxynaphthalin, 4-Hydroxyindol, 6-Hydroxyindol, 7-Hydroxyindol, 4-Hydroxyindolin, 6-Hydroxyindolin und 7-Hydroxy- indolin.,
[0092] In order to make the compositions (C) according to the invention olfactory attractive to the user, further compositions (C) and (S) used particularly preferably according to the invention are characterized in that they, each independently of one another, contain at least one perfume oil containing at least one fragrance compound or odorant compound. The definition of a fragrance in the sense of the present application corresponds to the definition customary in the art, as can be found in the RÖMPP Chemistry Lexicon, as of December 2007. According to this definition, a fragrance is a chemical compound with odor and / or taste that excites the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus). The necessary physical and chemical properties for this are a low molecular weight of a maximum of 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure,Minimal water and high lipid solubility, as well as weak polarity and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule. In order to distinguish volatile, low-molecular-weight substances, which are usually and also within the meaning of the present application not regarded and used as fragrances but primarily as solvents, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, and acetone, from fragrances according to the invention, fragrances according to the invention have a molecular mass of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule, and exhibit an odor and / or taste, i.e., they stimulate the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system. Examples of fragrance and perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate (DMBCA), phenylethyl acetate, benzyl acetate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate,Benzyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, floramat, melusate, and jasmecyclate. Examples of ether-type fragrance and odorant compounds are benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxan. Examples of aldehyde-type fragrance and odorant compounds are the linear alkanals with 8-18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, lilial, and bourgeonal. Examples of ketone-type fragrance and odorant compounds are the ionones, alpha-isomethyl ionone, and methyl cedryl ketone. Examples of alcohol-type fragrance and odorant compounds are anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol, and terpineol. Examples of terpene-type fragrance and odorant compounds are limonene and pinene. Examples of fragrance and odoriferous compounds are pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouli, rose, ylang-ylang oil, clary sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil,Galbanum oil, labdanum oil, orange blossom oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil, as well as essential oils such as angelica root oil, anise oil, arnica flower oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, champaca flower oil, silver fir oil, silver fir cone oil, elemi oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce needle oil, geranium oil, ginger grass oil, guaiac wood oil, gurjun balsam oil, helichrysum oil, ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copa tva balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, lemon balm oil, musk seed oil, myrrh oil, clove oil, Niaouli oil, orange oil, oregano oil, palmarosa oil, patchouli oil, Peru balsam oil, petitgrain oil, pepper oil, peppermint oil, allspice oil, pine oil, rose oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, spike oil, star anise oil, turpentine oil, thuja oil, thyme oil, verbena oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil,Lemon oil and cypress oil. Other fragrance and odoriferous compounds are ambrettolide, alpha-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anise alcohol, anisole, anthranilic acid methyl ester, acetophenone, benzyl acetone, benzaldehyde, benzoic acid ethyl ester, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, bornyl acetate, a-bromostyrene, n-decylaldehyde, n-dodecylaldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptynecarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamal alcohol, indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmone, camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilic acid methyl ester, p-methyl acetophenone, methyl chavicol, p-methyl quinoline, methyl ß-naphthyl ketone, methyl n-nonylacetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, muskone, ß-naphthol ethyl ether,ß-Naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxyacetophenone, pentadecanolide, ß-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, isoamyl salicylate, methyl salicylate, hexyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymen, thymol, γ-undecalactone, vanillin, veratrum aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, ethyl cinnamate, and benzyl cinnamate.
[0093] Other (more volatile) fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral and citronellal.
[0094] It is preferable to use mixtures of different fragrances that together create an appealing scent.
[0095] Suitable perfume oils can also contain natural fragrance mixtures obtained from plant or animal sources, e.g., pine, citrus, jasmine, rose, lily, or ylang-ylang oil. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are usually used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g., sage oil, chamomile oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, laudanum oil, clove oil, iso-eugenol, thyme oil, bergamot oil, geranium oil, and rose oil.
[0096] Compositions (C) and (S) used with exceptional preference according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in each case independently of one another, at least one fragrance in a total amount of 0.01 - 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 - 2% by weight, exceptionally preferably 1 - 1.5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the composition (C) or (S).
[0097] The expression “in each case independently of one another” also includes the case where only one of the two compositions (C) and (S) used according to the invention contains the respective optional ingredient.
[0098] Another object of the present invention is a kit for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising a composition C containing powdered leaves of Camellia sinensis in a cosmetic carrier and a composition S containing an aqueous solution of a silver salt.
[0099] What has been said regarding preferred embodiments of the staining method according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis to preferred embodiments of the kit according to the invention and its components, Composition C and Composition S.
[0100] Implementation examples
[0101] The exemplary embodiments presented below are intended to explain the subject matter of the invention in more detail without limiting it thereto.
[0102] The dyeing process according to the invention was performed on strands of white buffalo belly hair (round-tied, approximately 8 cm of free hair). Composition C used according to the invention was a 1 wt.% aqueous solution of matcha (Camellia sinensis) in water, which was adjusted to a pH of 3 ± 0.15 (measured at 20°C) with 10 wt.% hydrochloric acid.
[0103] Strands of buffalo belly hair were immersed in this solution for 30 minutes while stirring. The liquor ratio (amount of matcha solution per gram of hair) was 50 ml of matcha solution per gram of hair.
[0104] After treatment with Camellia sinensis, the hair strands were rinsed for 30 seconds under running deionized water with 20 combs (20°C).
[0105] The hair strands were then dried with a commercially available hair dryer at a defined distance (d = 10 cm) and a defined temperature (T = 80 ± 5 °C) with 20 combs.
[0106] After treatment with Camellia sinensis, no color change of the hair fibers was observed.
[0107] In the subsequent step of the dyeing process according to the invention, the strands were placed for a further 30 minutes in an aqueous solution of 0.5 wt% silver nitrate (AgNO3), which had a pH of 4.5, measured at 20°C. The liquor ratio (amount of silver nitrate solution per gram of hair) was 50 ml of silver nitrate solution per gram of hair. After the contact time, the strands were rinsed again as described above. The strands were then dried, leaving a residual moisture content of approximately 23 wt% water in the hair fibers, based on their weight.
[0108] The freshly dyed strands showed a very slight reddish shimmer when sunlight was excluded during the dyeing process.
[0109] In the final step of the dyeing process preferred according to the invention, the strands were exposed to sunlight. The sunlight reaching Earth has a wavelength range of approximately 290 nm to 700 nm. After approximately 10 to 90 minutes of sunlight exposure (behind window glass, July, Hamburg location), an intense red color was achieved. The color development progressed from an orange and light red tone to a strong, dark red tone. The same dyeing results were achieved under the following standardized conditions in a light cabinet: two hours of exposure in the light cabinet. The light cabinet contained fluorescent lamps (L 58 W / 954, LUMILUX DE LUXE T8). These had the following properties: luminous efficacy 78 lm / W (lumens per watt); luminous flux 4550 lm; color temperature 5400 K; and covered a wavelength spectrum of approximately 300 nm - 760 nm.The preparation of treatment compositions C and S and the treatment of hair strands with these compositions C and S were carried out at room temperature (20 - 25°C).
[0110] Determination of the color tone achieved by the inventive method
[0111] All colorimetric measurements were performed using the Spectraflash SF 600 colorimetric device from Datacolor.
[0112] The color difference, also known as dE or AE, can be easily determined colorimetrically using a colorimeter that measures colors in the L*, a*, b* color space, for example a Datacolor Spectraflash SF 600 colorimeter.
[0113] The L*,a*,b* color space refers to the CIELAB color space. The L value represents the brightness of the color (black-white axis); the higher the L value, the brighter the color. The a value represents the red-green axis of the system; the higher this value, the more the color is shifted toward red. The b value represents the yellow-blue axis of the system; the higher this value, the more the color is shifted toward yellow.
[0114] The color shift AE, i.e. the color difference between two (hair) colors, for each of which an L*, a*, b* value combination has been determined, is calculated according to the following formula:
[0115] AE = (AL 2 + Aa 2 + From 2 ) 05
[0116] The larger the value for AE, the more pronounced the color difference.
[0117] A D65 illuminant and a diffuse / 8° optical configuration were used for the spectrophotometer measurements. The spectral reflectance data for each sample from 380 nm to 700 nm were converted to colorimetric data using DCI Color software. Reflectance measurements were determined for each hair sample, with the average of four measurements recorded.
[0118] The color difference (AE) between the uncolored strand and the colored strand was calculated according to the following formula:
[0119] Lv, av, bv: colorimetric values for dyed strands (first Camellia sinensis, then silver nitrate)
[0120] Ln, an, bn: Colorimetric values for undyed, untreated strands (before Camellia sinensis) Table 1: L*-, a*-, b*-values of the untreated hair strands
[0121] Table 2: L*, a*, b*, AE values of Camellia s / nens / s / silver nitrate stains with subsequent sunlight exposure
Claims
Patent claims 1. A process for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, comprising the following process steps in the specified order: i. providing a composition C containing powdered leaves of Camellia sinensis in a cosmetic carrier, ii. applying the composition C to the keratin fibers to be colored, iii. leaving the composition C to act for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, iv. rinsing off the composition C, v. optionally drying the keratin fibers, vi. then treating the keratin fibers with a composition S containing an aqueous solution of a silver salt for a time of 0.5 to 60 minutes, vii. rinsing off the silver salt-containing composition S and viii. optionally drying the keratin fibers, wherein no oxidizing agents other than atmospheric oxygen are used in the process.
2. A process for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, according to claim 1, characterized in that the keratin fibers are exposed to electromagnetic radiation following process step vii. or viii.
3. A process for the non-oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the keratin fibers, after completion of process step viii., in each case based on their weight, have a water content of 1 - 42 wt.% water.
4. The method according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the electromagnetic radiation to which the keratin fibers are exposed following process step vii. or viii. of electromagnetic radiation is selected from a natural light source, preferably selected from daylight of the sun.
5. Method according to one of claims 2 - 4, characterized in that the keratin fibers are exposed to the electromagnetic radiation for a time of 0.5 - 60 minutes, preferably 1 - 45 minutes, particularly preferably 5 - 30 minutes, extremely preferably 10 - 15 minutes.
6. The method according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that the leaf powder of Camellia sinensis is used in an amount of 0.2-50 wt.%, preferably 0.5-20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.8 - 10 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1 - 2 wt.%, based on the weight of composition C. Process according to one of claims 1 - 6, characterized in that composition C has a pH of 2.0 to 8.0, preferably from 2.5 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 3.0 to 7.0, in each case measured at 20°C. Process according to one of claims 1 - 7, characterized in that composition C contains water in an amount of 30.0 - 99.8 wt.%, preferably 50.0 - 98.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 70.0 - 90.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 80.0 - 86.0 wt.%, based on the weight of composition C.The method according to any one of claims 1-8, characterized in that the at least one silver salt is selected from silver nitrate, silver sulfate, silver citrate, silver dihydrogen citrate, silver lactate, silver acetate, silver malate, silver succinate, silver tartrate, silver mandelate, silver salicylate, silver gluconate, silver adipate, and silver galactarate, as well as from mixtures of these salts, with silver nitrate, silver sulfate, silver citrate, silver dihydrogen citrate, and silver lactate, as well as mixtures of these salts, being particularly preferred. The method according to any one of claims 1-9, characterized in that the at least one silver salt is present in a total amount of 0.05-2 wt.%, preferably 0.1-1.5 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2-0.8 wt.%, extremely preferably 0.3-0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of composition S.Method according to one of claims 1-10, characterized in that the composition S has a pH of 2.0 to 8.0, preferably from 3.0 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 4.0 to 7.0, extraordinarily preferably from 4.5 to 5.0, in each case measured at 20°C. Kit for the non-oxidative coloring of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, comprising a composition C containing powdered leaves of Camellia sinensis in a cosmetic carrier and a composition S containing an aqueous solution of a silver salt. Kit for non-oxidative coloring according to claim 12, characterized in that the composition (C) is an agent according to one of claims 6-8. Kit for non-oxidative coloring according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the composition (S) is an agent according to one of claims 9-11.