Climbing belay
The climbing belay device addresses the need for automatic and reliable fall arrest by using rotatable elements and a lever mechanism to lock the rope during falls, ensuring safe operation for climbers and belayers of all experience levels.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- EP2025173962
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2024-05-02
- Filing Date
- 2025-05-02
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing belay devices require operator intervention for fall arrest, leading to potential accidents if the operator is inexperienced or distracted, and they do not automatically ensure safe fall arrest without manual operation.
A climbing belay device with rotatable elements and a lever mechanism that automatically locks the rope during a fall, allowing secure fall arrest without manual intervention, and can be used by users of varying experience levels.
The device provides automatic and reliable fall arrest, minimizing injury risk to climbers and belayers, and allows for easy operation, even by inexperienced users, while also enabling simultaneous use with multiple ropes and abseiling.
Smart Images

Figure IMGAF001_ABST
Abstract
Description
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This patent application claims priority from Italian patent application no. 102024000009904 filed on May 2, 2024, the entire disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.TECHNICAL FIELD
[0002] The present invention concerns a climbing belay device also called climbing brake.PRIOR ART
[0003] Belaying in rock climbing is the set of measures and operations which a climber or mountaineer, alone or as a rope team, implements to stop a possible fall during the ascent of a rock face or ice wall. The set of elements which a climber uses to stop the fall and which therefore form the safety system of a rope team is called belay system.
[0004] The aim of the belay system is to minimize injury to a climber who falls and to the belayer.
[0005] The main known elements of the belay system are rope, anchor point, belay station, belay device also called brake, harness and quickdraws.
[0006] By belay device or brake, in climbing and mountaineering, we mean an instrument for belaying the rope team. It is a device which, by interacting with the rope to which the rope team members are secured, allows the arrest of a fall.
[0007] In climbing and mountaineering, two different belaying systems are distinguished: static belaying via locking belay devices or brakes and dynamic belaying via semi-locking or dynamic belay devices or brakes.
[0008] In the case of static belaying, the kinetic energy developed by the fall is transformed into elastic energy: the rope, retained by the belayer, does not slide since it is locked by means of specific known belay devices such as, for example, the Gri-gri or the Cinch. The fall energy is dissipated almost exclusively by the elasticity of the rope.
[0009] Static belaying is used in sport climbing, where the anchor points are close to each other, corresponding to short falls, and are very solid (e.g. spit). In these cases locking brakes (i.e. that lock the rope) are used), like the gri-gri, which generally operate independently of the grip of the belaying partner (although in practice the presence of the belaying partner is required for safety reasons, since in certain situations the automatic locking is not guaranteed in the absence of the belaying partner's grip on the rope).
[0010] For this reason static belaying is also used in solo mountaineering, where the mountaineer has both hands occupied during climbing and therefore cannot operate the brake.
[0011] Since the fall arrest is practically immediate with an almost instant deceleration, it can be very violent and cause dangerous stress on all the elements of the safety system and in particular, it can cause injuries to the mountaineer by stopping his / her fall too abruptly.
[0012] The semi-locking belay devices or brakes or "dynamic belay devices" are often used also as descenders for abseiling. They are used mainly in multi-pitch climbing, mountaineering and all outdoor activities in which the reliability of the ascent anchor points is not optimal.
[0013] In the case of dynamic belaying, the kinetic energy developed by the fall is transformed into heat: the rope, retained by the belayer, slides in a brake, typically an Italian hitch or a tube belay device that generates friction. Said friction dissipates over time the energy released by the fall in an manner proportional to the friction generated by the partial braked sliding of the rope.
[0014] The semi-locking brakes or belay devices have the disadvantage that in order to arrest a fall they necessarily require the involvement of an operator (namely the person that secures the climber or mountaineer), who has to apply the force to partially retain the rope. For correct use, they therefore always require a certain experience and a perfect knowledge of their operating mechanism. The particular characteristic of these devices is that of multiplying the retention force applied by the belayer, through a system of friction on the rope. The big advantage of semi-locking brakes with respect to the locking brakes is that they generate a lower stopping force and, consequently, also less stress on the entire belay system. The body of the falling climber will presumably fall for longer, due to the partial sliding of the rope in the brake, but the arrest will be "softer", with a gradual deceleration. The most widespread semi-locking brakes currently include the Italian hitch, the Tuber or bucket, the Otto and the Reverso.
[0015] The drawback of these belay devices is that if the operator is not very experienced and does not manage to brake appropriately or if he / she is distracted, the fall is not braked automatically and therefore accidents can occur which can also be serious and can often also involve the belayer.
[0016] It is important to note that all belay devices, whether locking or semi-locking, in order to work correctly need to be coupled to a carabiner, which in turn is coupled either to the harness of the belayer or to a fixed belay station which acts as an anchor point for the arrest or braking of the fall.
[0017] It is also important to note that the locking brakes can be used to secure the leader or the second of the rope team, but not for abseiling. Abseiling is a descent in which the climber exploits the friction on the rope generally exerted by a semi-locking belay device to descend alone from the rock face or ice wall.
[0018] The search is therefore ongoing for solutions to provide belay devices or brakes that allow the advantages of the locking and semi-locking brakes to be exploited, without the respective drawbacks previously discussed.OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
[0019] The object of the present invention is to obtain a climbing belay device, which allows the above-mentioned problems to be solved.
[0020] A further object of the present invention is to obtain a climbing belay device which is easy to produce, lightweight and which can be gripped easily and operated effectively by any user, even without great experience, so as to guarantee the highest safety standards.
[0021] According to the present invention said objects are achieved by a climbing belay device according to claim 1.BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0022] For a better understanding of the present invention, it is now described also with reference to the attached figures that illustrate: figure 1 is a perspective view that illustrates a climbing belay device in a first operating position and in which a lever of the climbing belay device is in a first position, according to an embodiment of the present invention; figure 2 is a lateral view of the climbing belay device of figure 1, in the first operating position and with the lever in the first position; figure 3 is an overhead view of the climbing belay device of figure 1, in the first operating position and with the lever in the first position; figure 4 is a lateral view of the climbing belay device of figure 1, in the first operating position and with the lever in a second position; figure 5 is a lateral view of the climbing belay device of figure 1, in a second operating position and with the lever in the first position; figure 6 is an overhead view of the climbing belay device of figure 1, in the second operating position and with the lever in the first position; figure 7 is a lateral view of the climbing belay device of figure 1 coupled with a climbing rope, in the second operating position of the climbing belay device and with the lever in the first position; figure 8 is a schematic perspective view of a portion of a belay system comprising the climbing belay device of figure 1 and the climbing rope of figure 7, in the first operating position of the climbing belay device and with the lever in the first position; figure 9 is a schematic perspective view of the climbing belay device of figure 1 coupled with the climbing rope and used by a user, in the first operating position of the climbing belay device and with the lever in the second position; and figure 10 is a lateral view of the climbing belay device of figure 1, coupled with the climbing rope and according to a further embodiment, in the second operating position of the climbing belay device and with the lever in the first position. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0023] Elements common to the various embodiments of the present invention, described below, are indicated by the same reference numbers.
[0024] In figure 1 the number 10 indicates overall a climbing belay device, also called climbing brake and indicated below as belay device 10. The belay device 10 is shown in a Cartesian (triaxial) reference system with axes X, Y and Z.
[0025] The belay device 10 can be used by a user (for example a climber or mountaineer, or alternatively a person who secures the climber or mountaineer) to arrest the fall of a climber or mountaineer during a climb. In detail, the belay device 10 can be used both to secure a climber who is climbing as the rope team leader (by means of a single rope or two half ropes) and to secure one or two climbers who are climbing as second members of the rope team (with one or two ropes when only one second climber is present, or with two half ropes when two second climbers are present).
[0026] The belay device 10 is comprised in a climbing belay system, discussed in further detail below with reference to figure 8 and indicated by the reference number 50.
[0027] The belay device 10, shown in figures 1-3, comprises a main body 12 having a first surface 12a and a second surface 12b opposite each other. For example, the first surface 12a and the second surface 12b extend parallel to each other and parallel to a plane YZ defined by the axes Y and Z.
[0028] The main body 12 has a through opening 14 which extends, through the main body 12, transversely to the first surface 12a and to the second surface 12b. In detail, the through opening 14 extends along a first axis 15, central to the through opening 14 and transverse to the surfaces 12a and 12b of the main body 12, and for example parallel to the axis X.
[0029] For example, the through opening 14 has, orthogonally to the first axis 15, a circular or ovoid shape (with a first diameter d 1 or, respectively, a first major axis d 1 ).
[0030] The belay device 10 further comprises a first rotatable element (or first rotatable plate, or flange) 16 and a second rotatable element (or second rotatable plate, or flange) 17 extending longitudinally to the main body 12 and rotatably coupled (namely rotatably constrained) to the main body 12 by means of a first and, respectively, a second rotation pivot 18 and 19. The first and the second rotatable element 16 and 17 face the first and the second surface 12a and 12b respectively of the main body 12, and have respective first ends 16a and 17a coupled to the respective rotation pivots 18 and 19. The first and the second rotation pivot 18 and 19 are axially aligned with each other along a first rotation axis 20 transverse to the surfaces 12a and 12b of the main body 12, and extend from the first and, respectively, the second surface 12a and 12b of the main body 12. In particular, the first rotation axis 20 is parallel to the first axis 15, and therefore for example parallel to the axis X.
[0031] The first and the second rotation pivot 18 and 19 are interposed between the main body 12 and, respectively, the first rotatable element 16 and the second rotatable element 17, and are fixed to the main body 12. The rotatable elements 16 and 17 are rotatably coupled, at the first ends 16a and 17a, to the rotation pivots 18 and 19 in a per se known manner (e.g. the rotatable elements 16 and 17 have play relative to the respective rotation pivots 18 and 19, thus allowing the rotation thereof). Consequently, the rotatable elements 16 and 17 can rotate axially around the first rotation axis 20 with respect to the main body 12. In further detail, the rotatable elements 16 and 17 can rotate independently of each other.
[0032] The rotatable elements 16 and 17 have respective second ends 16b and 17b defining respective eyelets 22 and 23, for example having a circular or ovoid shape (with a second diameter d 2 or, respectively, with a second major axis d 2 ). Advantageously, the through opening 14 and the eyelets 22 and 23 have shape and dimensions identical to each other (d 1 =d 2 ).
[0033] The belay device 10 further comprises a first and a second locking pivot 26 and 27 which are axially aligned with each other and which extend, transversely to the main body 12 and along the same second axis 29, from the first and, respectively, from the second surface 12a and 12b of the main body 12, to which they are attached. In particular, the second axis 29 is parallel to the first axis 15 and to the first rotation axis 20, and therefore is for example parallel to the axis X. In further detail, the first and the second locking pivot 26 and 27 have respective first ends 26a and 27a and respective second ends 26b and 27b opposite each other along the second axis 29, and are fixed to the respective surfaces 12a and 12b of the main body by means of the first ends 26a and 27a.
[0034] The first rotatable element 16 and the second rotatable element 17 have respective third ends 16c and 17c defining respective seats 31 and 32 shaped to abut and interlock with the second ends 26b and 27b of the first and second locking pivot 26 and 27 respectively, as better described below.
[0035] In a plane YZ defined by the axes Y and Z, the through opening 14, the locking pivots 26, 27 and the rotation pivots 18, 19 are misaligned with each other and are mutually arranged in a triangular configuration (namely they are placed at respective vertexes of a triangle).
[0036] As shown in figure 2, in the plane YZ the through opening 14 and the rotation pivots 18, 19 form between them a first angle α with respect to the locking pivots 26, 27. In detail, in the plane YZ, the first angle α is formed between a central point of the through opening 14 (e.g. the centre of the circular shape of the through opening 14) and a centre of gravity of the first or second rotation pivot 18, 19, with respect to a centre of gravity of the first or, respectively, second locking pivot 26, 27. Furthermore, the locking pivots 26, 27 are spaced from the through opening 14 by a first distance D 1 (in particular, calculated between the centre of gravity of the locking pivot 26, 27 and the centre of the through opening 14), and the rotation pivots 18, 19 are spaced from the through opening 14 by a second distance D 2 (in particular, calculated between the centre of gravity of the rotation pivot 18, 19 and the centre of the through opening 14), which is greater than the first distance D 1 .
[0037] Furthermore, as shown in figure 3 in a plane XY defined by the axes X and Y, the first and the second rotatable element 16 and 17 are shaped so as to: be spaced, at the first and third ends 16a, 17a, 16c, 17c, by a third distance D 3 from the first and, respectively, from the second surface 12a and 12b of the main body 12; and be in grazing contact, at the second ends 16b, 17b, with the first and, respectively, the second surface 12a and 12b of the main body 12. In other words, the rotatable elements 16 and 17 comprise first portions 16' and 17' (comprising the first ends 16a and 17a and the third ends 16c and 17c, and extending parallel to the surfaces 12a and 12b of the semiconductor body 12 and to the third distance D 3 from the latter), second portions 16'' and 17'' (comprising the second ends 16b and 17b and extending in grazing contact with the surfaces 12a and 12b of the main body 12), and third portions 16''' and 17‴ (extending transversely to the surfaces 12a and 12b of the semiconductor body 12 to join together the first portions 16' and 17' and the second portions 16" and 17'').
[0038] Advantageously the third distance D 3 is such as to allow the housing of a climbing rope 40 (figure 7) between the main body 12 and the first portions 16' and 17' of the first or second rotatable element 16, 17.
[0039] Furthermore, the belay device 10 comprises a lever 34 rotatably coupled to the main body 12, on the opposite side of the main body 12 with respect to the through opening 14. In particular, the lever 34 has a first and second end 34a and 34b opposite each other. The first end 34a of the lever 34 is rotatably constrained to the main body 12 by means of a lever pivot 36 (and relative sliding bearing, not shown), which extends transversely to the surfaces 12a and 12b of the main body 12 and which defines a second rotation axis 38 (parallel to the first axis 15, to the second axis 29 and to the first rotation axis 20) around which the lever 36 can rotate.
[0040] The lever can be operated in a closed position (shown in figures 1-3) or in an open position (shown in figure 4) which is angularly rotated around the second rotation axis 38 with respect to the first position.
[0041] In the closed position, the second end 34b of the lever 36 abuts a third surface 12c of the main body 12, which is adjacent to the first and second surface 12a and 12b of the main body 12 and which extends on the opposite side of the main body 12 with respect to the locking pivots 26 and 27.
[0042] As shown in figure 4, in the open position the lever 34 extends radially with respect to the main body 12, and therefore the second end 34b of the lever 34 is at a distance from the third surface 12c of the main body 12. In particular, the first end 34a of the lever 34 is shaped so as to limit the maximum rotation of the lever 34 around the second rotation axis 38.
[0043] In further detail, the second end 34b of the lever 34 defines a second angle β with respect to the third surface 12c of the main body 12: when the lever 34 is in the closed position, the second angle β is null since the second end 34b of the lever 34 abuts the third surface 12c of the main body 12; when the lever 34 is in the second position, the second angle β has a maximum value B max , preferably equal to approximately 150°, and the lever 34 protrudes with respect to the main body 12. For example, when the lever 34 is in the second position, the first end 34a of the lever 34 abuts a portion 12a' (figure 2) of the first end 12a of the main body 12, which operates as a locking element and prevents the second angle β from exceeding said maximum value β max .
[0044] The first end 34a of the lever 34 and the through opening 14 are preferably aligned with each other along a longitudinal axis 24, which in figure 4 is shown by way of non-limiting example as parallel to the axis Y. In detail, the longitudinal axis 24 joins the centre of the through opening 14 and a centre of gravity of the lever pivot 36.
[0045] The belay device 10 is symmetrical with respect to a plane of symmetry 35 (figure 3) passing through the longitudinal axis 24 (therefore passing through the main body 12) and parallel to the first surface 12a of the main body 12 (and therefore parallel to the plane YZ).
[0046] In further detail, the rotation pivots 18 and 19 have a biconical shape (namely in longitudinal section they have a channel, in particular with "U" shape). In particular, each rotation pivot 18, 19 has a cylindrical shape which is tapered centrally along the first rotation axis 20 (namely at a central portion of the rotation pivots 18 and 19). In other words, the rotation pivots 18 and 19 have, orthogonally to the first rotation axis 20: a first section at the first and second rotatable element 16 and 17; a second section at the first and second surface 12a and 12b of the main body 12; and a third section at a region (central position) of the rotation pivots 18 and 19 which is equidistant from the respective rotatable element 16, 17 and from the respective surface 12a and 12b of the main body 12. The first and the second section have respective areas identical to each other, and the third section has a respective area smaller than the areas of the first and second section.
[0047] For example and as shown in the figures considered here, the locking pivots 26 and 27 can have a cylindrical profile. Optionally, the locking pivots 26 and 27 are tapered analogously to what has been previously described for the rotation pivots 18 and 19.
[0048] According to an embodiment of the present invention, the first diameter (or the first major axis) d 1 is comprised between approximately 15 mm and approximately 18 mm; the first angle α is equal to approximately 140°; the first distance D 1 is equal to approximately 43 mm; the second distance D 2 is equal to approximately 70 mm; and the third distance D 3 is equal to approximately 14 mm.
[0049] In a first closed operating position of the belay device 10, shown in figures 1-4, both the rotatable elements 16, 17 are in respective first positions and the eyelets 22 and 23 are axially aligned with each other and with the through opening 14 so as to allow the hooking of a carabiner 58 as shown in Figure 8. Furthermore, the third ends 16c and 17c of the rotatable elements 16 and 17 abut the respective second ends 26b and 27b of the locking pivots 26 and 27.
[0050] In a second open operating position of the belay device 10, shown with reference to figures 5-7, at least one of the rotatable elements 16, 17 is in a respective second position angularly rotated around the first rotation axis 20, with respect to the first position.
[0051] Although figures 5-7 show by way of example the first rotatable element 16 in the second open position and the second rotatable element 17 in the first closed position, the following discussion can be applied analogously also to the opposite case or to the case in which both the rotatable elements 16, 17 are in the second open position.
[0052] In figures 5-7, the second end 16b of the first rotatable element 16 is not in contact with the main body 12, and the eyelet 22 is axially misaligned with respect to the through opening 14 and the eyelet 23. Furthermore, the third end 16c of the first rotatable element 16 does not abut the second end 26b of the first locking pivot 26.
[0053] As shown in figure 7, when the belay device 10 is in the second open operating position, it is possible to couple to it the climbing rope 40, below indicated as rope 40 and also comprised in the belay system 50. Below, the coupling to the belay device 10 of one single rope 40 around the first locking pivot 26 and the first rotation pivot 18 and between the first rotatable element 16 and the main body 12 is discussed; however, what is described applies analogously also to the case in which the rope 40 is coupled around the second locking pivot 27 and the second rotation pivot 19, and to the case in which two ropes 40 (or two branches of a double rope) are coupled each at a respective one of the surfaces 12a, 12b of the main body 12.
[0054] When coupled to the belay device 10, the rope 40 forms a serpentine path defined by the first locking pivot 26, the first rotation pivot 18 and the third portion 16''' of the first rotatable element 16. In particular, the serpentine path comprises two changes of direction, and in greater detail comprises, in mutual succession: a first substantially straight section 40a towards the first rotation pivot 18, a first sharp bend 40b around the first rotation pivot 18, a second substantially straight section 40c laterally delimited by the first rotation pivot 18 and by the first locking pivot 26, a second sharp bend 40d around the first locking pivot 26, and a third substantially straight section 40e laterally comprised between the first rotation pivot 18 and the third portion 16''' of the first rotatable element 16.
[0055] After coupling the rope 40 to the belay device 10 along the serpentine path, while the first rotatable element 16 is in the second open operating position, the first rotatable element 16 is rotated by the person using the belay device to position it in the first closed operating position, as better described below.
[0056] Figure 8 shows the belay system 50 used to secure the climber or mountaineer (below called climber and indicated by the reference number 52). Although the case in which belaying is carried out via the harness is described, the following description applies analogously to the case in which the belaying is performed via a belay station.
[0057] In use, the user wears a climbing harness 54 of known type. The belay device 10, already coupled to the rope 40 as previously discussed, is connected to a service ring 56 of the harness 54 via the carabiner 58 (preferably a screwgate carabiner, to avoid undesired opening in use and thus improve the safety of the climber 52). The belay device 10 therefore defines a first end 40' of the rope 40 (comprising the first section 40a) and a second end 40" of the rope 40 (comprising the third section 40e). The user keeps his / her first hand 60 on the first end 40', at the first section 40a of the rope 40, in order to control the sliding of the rope 40 in the belay device 10. The climber 52 is attached to the second end 40" of the rope 40.
[0058] In detail, the carabiner 58 is inserted in the through opening 14 and in the eyelets 22, 23, which are aligned with the through opening 14 when the belay device 10 is set to the first closed operating position after the rope 40 has been inserted in the belay device 10. In this way, the rotatable elements 16, 17 are locked in the first positions by the carabiner 58, which prevents the rotation of the rotatable elements 16, 17 around the first rotation axis 20.
[0059] Since in the first closed operating position the third ends 16c, 17c of the rotatable elements 16, 17 abut the locking pivots 26, 27, the rope 40 is constrained along the serpentine path. In fact, the second section 40c extends between the first rotation pivot 18 and the first locking pivot 26; and the third section 40e extends between the first locking pivot 26 and the second end 16b of the first rotatable element 16. Transversely to the surfaces 12a and 12b of the main body 12, the rope 40 extends between the first surface 12a of the main body 12 and the first rotatable element 16.
[0060] When the user does not intervene on the belay device 10 and no tension is applied on the rope 40 by the climber 52, the belay device 10 has a first orientation in relation to the harness 54. In detail, the carabiner 58, the belay device 10 and the second end 40" of the rope 40 are mutually arranged along a curvilinear path. In this case, the rope 40 can slide freely in the belay device 10 along the serpentine path. In other words, the segment (or portion) of the rope 40 in the third section 40e extends at a distance with respect to the segment (or portion) of the rope 40 in the second section 40c. Consequently, the segments of the rope 40 in the third section 40e and in the second section 40c do not mutually abut and the rope 40 is allowed to slide in the belay device 10.
[0061] When the user does not intervene on the belay device 10 and the climber 52 tensions the rope 40 because, for example, he / she falls causing tensioning of the rope 40, the belay device 10 rotates and sets itself to a second position relative to the harness 54. In detail, in this position the carabiner 58, the belay device 10 and the second end 40" of the rope 40 are aligned along a substantially straight path. In this case, the segment of the rope 40 positioned in the first sharp bend 40b abuts the segment of the rope 40 positioned in the third section 40e. The friction between the segments of the rope 40 in the first sharp bend 40b and in the third section 40e locks the rope 40 automatically and prevents it from sliding in the belay device 10. Consequently, the fall of the climber 52 is arrested without requiring any intervention or manoeuvre by the user.
[0062] To release the climber 52 and allow continuation of the climb, the rope 40 must be unlocked in the belay device 10.
[0063] The user can intervene on the belay device 10 so as to allow again the sliding of the rope 40 along the serpentine path, as shown in figure 9, changing again the position of the belay device 10 to move the segments of the rope 40 away from each other in the first sharp bend 40b and in the third section 40e with the aid of the lever 34.
[0064] In particular, with reference to figure 9, the user opens the lever 34 setting it to the second open position and then applies a force F exploiting the lever arm so as to cause a rotation of the belay device 10 around the first axis 15. In greater detail, the force F has the same direction as a force applied to the lever 34 to bring it from the first position to the second position; in other words, the rotation generated by the force F around the first axis 15 is concordant with the rotation applied around the second rotation axis 38 to bring the lever 34 from the first position to the second position. Since the second angle β cannot have a value greater than the maximum value β max as previously discussed, the force F causes the rotation of the belay device 10 integral with the carabiner 58, and the longitudinal axis 24 is misaligned (namely no longer parallel) with respect to the substantially straight path. In other words, the force F causes the mutual distancing of the first rotation pivot 18 from the segment of rope 40 in the third section 40e, and therefore causes the mutual distancing of said segments of the rope 40 in the third section 40e and in the second section 40c. The greater the force F (in detail, with respect to a threshold value), the greater the distancing between the segment of the rope 40 positioned in the first sharp bend 40b and the segment of the rope 40 positioned in the third section 40e. At the moment when the friction decreases, the rope 40 can resume sliding, because the segments of the rope are no longer mutually abutting. When the friction decreases between the segments of the rope 40 in the first sharp bend 40b and in the third section 40e, the climber 52 can therefore be slowly lowered and / or at the moment when the friction is sufficiently reduced, he / she can resume the climb.
[0065] Via the action on the lever 34 which leads to a variation in the friction exerted between the segments 40b and 40e it is also possible to abseil down and, in particular, adjust the abseil speed as occurs with a classic tube descender.
[0066] Furthermore it is also possible to lower a climber 52 who is climbing as the team leader at the end of the climb. In general, the first angle α is directly proportional to a diameter of the rope 40 to be inserted in the belay device 10, therefore it increases as the diameter of the rope 40 increases and decreases in the opposite case.
[0067] From an examination of the characteristics of the finding produced according to the present invention, the advantages it offers are evident.
[0068] The belay device 10 allows securing of the rope team in order to minimize injury to the climber 52 who falls and to the user who is performing the task of securing the climber 52. In particular, by interacting with the rope 40 to which the rope team members are tied, the belay device 10 allows the arrest of any fall of the climber 52.
[0069] The belay device 10 is locking and this makes the climb safe due to the fact that it operates automatically. In fact, the belay device 10 operates also if the user is distracted or does not perform the arrest operations correctly.
[0070] At the same time, the belay device 10 can also be used simultaneously with two ropes 40.
[0071] The belay device 10 allows both the leader and second member of the rope team to be secured, and also allows abseiling.
[0072] Furthermore, the belay device 10 is more reliable than the semi-locking belay devices currently on the market since, by means of the rotatable elements 16 and 17, it limits the movement of the rope 40 along the serpentine path shown in figure 7. In fact, the rotatable elements 16 and 17 cannot move transversely to the main body 12 and, once the carabiner 58 is inserted in the through opening 14 and in the eyelets 22 and 23, they cannot even rotate around the first rotation axis 20. Consequently, the rope 40 is completely constrained along the serpentine path, and undesired movements of the carabiner 58 have no effect on the sliding of the rope 40, as can happen with the currently known semi-locking belay devices.
[0073] The lever 34 facilitates the rotation of the belay device 10 around the first axis 15, allowing the user to reduce the force F applied. Furthermore, the lever 34 can be re-closed, thus minimizing the overall dimensions when it is not used.
[0074] Lastly it is clear that modifications and variations can be made to the invention described and illustrated here without departing from the protective scope of the present invention, as defined in the attached claims.
[0075] In particular, although the belay device 10 was previously described as being axially symmetrical with respect to the axis YZ passing through the longitudinal axis 24 (in other words, the belay device 10 comprises two rotatable elements 16, 17, two locking pivots 26, 27 and two rotation pivots 18, 19), according to a different embodiment the belay device 10 comprises only one rotatable element (e.g. the first rotatable element 16), a locking pivot (e.g. the first locking pivot 26) and a rotation pivot (e.g. the first rotation pivot 18). In this case, the operation of the belay device 10 is unchanged with respect to what was previously described, however it is not possible to simultaneously use more than one rope 40 (analogously, more than one end of a doubled rope). Consequently, abseiling is not possible.
[0076] Furthermore, according to a different embodiment of the belay device 10, the lever 34 is absent. In this case, the user can rotate the belay device 10 itself to allow sliding of the rope 40 when the latter is in tension following the fall of the climber 52. This is possible by placing the second hand 62 directly on the main body 12 (for example, on the third surface 12c of the main body 12), and therefore applying the force F directly to the main body 12.
[0077] Advantageously, the first and the second locking pivot 26 and 27 are replaced by a single through pivot (not shown) which extends along the second axis 29 through the main body 12.
[0078] Furthermore, optionally further holes or through openings are provided in the main body 12 and / or in the rotatable elements 16 and 17 in order to lighten the weight of the belay device 10.
[0079] Furthermore, the locking pivots 26 and 27 can have a different shape from that previously described (e.g. they can have a non-circular profile in cross section) or they can be eccentric with respect to the second axis 29. In both these cases, the locking pivots 26 and 27 are not attached to the main body 12 but are rotatable around the second axis 29 (for this reason also called locking rotation axis 29) so that they can be fixed in use in one of a plurality of different predefined angular positions. These different angular positions allow the contact surface of the locking pivots 26 and 27 with the rope 40 to be varied, thus varying the path of the rope 40. This allows also ropes with different diameters to be housed in the belay device 10 without risking a lack of friction between the second and third section 40c and 40e of the rope 40 during the locking phase.
[0080] In fact, considering for example the case in which the locking pivots 26 and 27 are eccentric and hinged to the main body 12 so as to be rotatable around the second axis 29, the user can rotate the locking pivots 26 and 27 to establish the preferred angular position thereof before using the belay device 10 for belaying. In particular, the rotation of the locking pivots 26 and 27 of eccentric type defines the width and shape of the contact surface of the locking pivots 26 and 27 with the rope 40, for example by decreasing or increasing the distance of the second sharp bend 40d from the rotation pivots 18 and 19 and / or by varying the degree of curvature of the second sharp bend 40d as a function of the chosen angular position of the locking pivots 26 and 27, relative to the main body 12.
[0081] An analogous result is achieved in the case in which the locking pivots 26 and 27 have a non-circular profile, for example asymmetrical, in cross section (e.g. in cross section they have oval, elliptic, cam or other shape). In other words, in this case the locking pivots 26 and 27 have in cross section an outer edge which has a radial distance with respect to the second axis 29 which is variable (e.g. in the case of an elliptic profile, the radial distance with respect to the second axis 29 is greater along the major axis of the ellipse than along the minor axis of the ellipse). Since the angular position of the locking pivots 26 and 27 is selectable by the user, the width and the shape of the contact surface of the locking pivots 26 and 27 with the rope 40 can consequently vary, for example by decreasing or increasing the distance of the second sharp bend 40d from the rotation pivots 18 and 19 and / or varying the degree of curvature of the second sharp bend 40d as a function of the chosen angular position of the locking pivots 26 and 27, relative to the main body 12.
[0082] For example, the locking pivots 26 and 27 are attached in the predefined angular positions relative to the main body 12 according to per se known techniques. By way of non-limiting example, each locking pivot 26, 27 comprises a respective threaded element (e.g. screw) which extends through the locking pivot 26, 27 along the second axis 29 until it reaches the main body 12, where it cooperates with a respective opposite threaded element (e.g. nut screw) of the main body 12 so as to press the locking pivot 26, 27 (which is positioned in the desired angular position) on the first surface 12a and therefore so as to attach the locking pivot 26, 27 to the main body 12 in the chosen angular position. In this case, to change the angular position of the locking pivot 26, 27 it is sufficient to rotate the threaded element around the second axis 29 until the locking pivot 26, 27 becomes movable with respect to the main body 12, set it to the desired angular position and, keeping the desired angular position, rotate the threaded element in the opposite direction around the second axis 29 until the locking pivot 26, 27 is re-attached to the main body 12.
[0083] This allows the belay element 10 to be adapted to different possible diameters of the rope, increasing the versatility thereof and at the same time maintaining the performance unchanged in terms of locking of the rope, when required.
[0084] Figure 10 shows the belay device 10 in a further embodiment.
[0085] The structure and operation of the belay device 10 of figure 10 are analogous to what has been described so far and therefore are not described here again in detail, unless to highlight the differences.
[0086] In particular, in this embodiment the belay device 10 comprises, in addition to what has been described so far, a respective friction element for each of the first and second surface 12a, 12b of the main body.
[0087] Figure 10 shows a first friction element 46 which extends in the area of the first surface 12a; however, it is evident that there is also a second friction element (not shown) which extends analogously in the area of the second surface 12b so as to make the belay device 10 symmetrical with respect to the plane of symmetry 35.
[0088] The first friction element 46 is constrained to the main body 12 (in particular, to the first surface 12a) and, in the lateral view of figure 10, extends from the first locking pivot 26 so as to be interposed along the direction of the axis Y between the second section 40c and the third section 40e of the rope 40, when the latter is coupled to the belay device 10.
[0089] For example, the first friction element 46 is attached, or rotatably coupled, to the first locking pivot 26 (on the opposite side of the first locking pivot 26 with respect to where the second sharp bend 40d is present) and can extend as far as the third surface 12c of the main body 12.
[0090] The first friction element 46 has a structure elongated along the direction of the axis Z, such as an 8-structure, in particular asymmetrical.
[0091] In further detail, the first friction element 46 has a first and a second end portion 46a, 46b which are opposite each other along the axis Z and are joined by a connecting portion 46c, interposed between them. In the direction of the axis Y, the connecting portion 46c can have a width smaller than the width of the end portions 46a, 46b. Furthermore, the first end portion 46a, which is constrained to the first locking pivot 26, can be bigger than the second end portion 46b, which is in the area of the third surface 12c; in other words, along the direction of the axis Y, the first end portion 46a can have a width greater than the width of the second end portion 46b.
[0092] As shown in figure 10, the first friction element 46 has a first and a second friction surface 48a, 48b, opposite each other along the direction of the axis Y. The first friction surface 48a is oriented towards the lever pivot 36 thus facing in use the second section 40c, while the second friction surface 48b is oriented towards the through opening 14 thus facing in use the third section 40e.
[0093] In use, when the user does not intervene on the belay device 10 and no tension is applied on the rope 40 by the climber 52, the belay device 10 has the first orientation and the first friction surface 48a at a distance from the second section 40c of the rope 40 (or in any case the first friction surface 48a is not compressed on the second section 40c of the rope 40 at a point such as to throttle the latter). In this situation, the rope 40 is free to slide in the belay device 10.
[0094] On the other hand, when the user does not intervene on the belay device 10 and the climber 52 tensions the rope 40, the belay device 10 rotates and is arranged in the second position and the first friction surface 48a is in contact with the second section 40c of the rope 40. In particular, the tensioning of the rope 40 by the climber 52 compresses the first friction surface 48a on the second section 40c of the rope 40, resulting in the throttling of the latter. In this situation, the sliding of the rope 40 in the belay device 10 is prevented.
[0095] By rotating the belay device 10 as described previously, it is possible to remove the constriction of the rope 40, allowing it to slide again in the belay device 10.
[0096] Therefore, in figure 10 the sliding or locking of the rope 40 in the belay device 10 is determined by the friction and constriction which the first friction element 46 generates on the second section 40c of the rope 40, instead of the friction between the second and third section 40c, 40e of the rope 40 as previously described. In any case, it is evident that the operation of the belay device 10 is identical to what has been previously described.
[0097] The use of the first friction element 46 avoids the locking of the rope 40 in the belay device 10 depending on the rubbing of the two sections of the rope 40 and therefore reduces the wear on the rope 40, prolonging the working life thereof.
[0098] In particular, for said purpose the friction surfaces 48a, 48b are curved, in detail concave.
[0099] In further detail, the friction surfaces 48a, 48b are shaped so as to maximize the contact area with the rope 40 if it is necessary to lock the rope 40, at the same time minimizing the bending angle of the regions of the rope 40 in contact with the first friction element 46. This improves the constricting properties of the rope 40 by the first friction element 46 but without increasing the wear on the rope 40.
[0100] Differently from figure 10, it is also possible for the first friction element 46 to be asymmetrical along its main extension direction parallel to the axis Z and, in particular, for only the first friction surface 48a to be curved and configured to constrict the rope 40. In this case, the second friction surface 48b can also be straight or convex, since the locking effect of the rope 40 is in any case guaranteed by the first friction surface 48a.
Examples
Embodiment Construction
[0023]Elements common to the various embodiments of the present invention, described below, are indicated by the same reference numbers.
[0024]In figure 1 the number 10 indicates overall a climbing belay device, also called climbing brake and indicated below as belay device 10. The belay device 10 is shown in a Cartesian (triaxial) reference system with axes X, Y and Z.
[0025]The belay device 10 can be used by a user (for example a climber or mountaineer, or alternatively a person who secures the climber or mountaineer) to arrest the fall of a climber or mountaineer during a climb. In detail, the belay device 10 can be used both to secure a climber who is climbing as the rope team leader (by means of a single rope or two half ropes) and to secure one or two climbers who are climbing as second members of the rope team (with one or two ropes when only one second climber is present, or with two half ropes when two second climbers are present).
[0026]The belay device 10 is comprised in a c...
Claims
1. A climbing belay device (10) comprising: - a main body (12) having a first surface (12a) and defining a through opening (14) extending through the main body (12) transversely to the first surface (12a); - a first rotation pivot (18) attached to the first surface (12a) and extending transversely to the first surface (12a), the first rotation pivot (18) defining a first rotation axis (20) transverse to the first surface (12a); - a first locking pivot (26) extending transversely to the first surface (12a) and having a first end (26a), attached to the first surface (12a), and a second end (26b) opposite the first end (26a); and - a first rotatable plate (16) facing the first surface (12a) and having a first (16a), a second (16b) and a third (16c) end, the first rotatable plate (16) being coupled, at the first end (16a), to the main body (12) via the first rotation pivot (18) and being rotatable about the first rotation axis (20), wherein the second end (16b) of the first rotatable plate (16) defines a first eyelet (22), wherein the through opening (14), the first rotation pivot (18) and the first locking pivot (26) are misaligned with each other, and wherein the first rotatable plate (16) is positionable in a first position or in a second position angularly rotated with respect to the first position around the first rotation axis (20).
2. The climbing belay device (10) according to claim 1, wherein when the first rotatable plate (16) is in the first position, the first eyelet (22) is aligned with the through opening (14), the third end (16c) of the first rotatable plate (16) is abutting the second end (26b) of the first locking pivot (26), the first (16a) and the third (16c) ends of the first rotatable plate (16) have a first distance (D3) from the first surface (12a), the second end (16b) of the first rotatable plate (16) is in grazing contact with the first surface (12a), and a connecting portion (16‴) of the first rotatable plate (16) extends transversely to the first surface (12a) and joins together the first (16a), second (16b) and third (16c) ends of the first rotatable plate (16), and when the first rotatable plate (16) is in the second position, the first eyelet (22) is misaligned with respect to the through opening (14), the third (16c) end of the first rotatable plate (16) is not abutting the second (26b) end of the first locking pivot (26), and the second (16b) end of the first rotatable plate (16) is not in direct physical contact with the first surface (12a).
3. The belay device according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the first rotation pivot (18) has a biconical shape.
4. The belay device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first locking pivot (26) defines a second locking rotation axis (29) transverse to the first surface (12a), and is rotatable about the second locking rotation axis (29) so as to be placed in one among a plurality of predetermined angular positions, and wherein the first locking pivot (26) has a non-circular cross-sectional profile or is eccentric with respect to the second locking rotation axis (29).
5. The belay device according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a lever (34) having a first end (34a) and a second end (34b) opposite to each other, the lever (34) being rotatably coupled, via the first end (34a), to the main body (12) on an opposite side of the main body (12) with respect to the through opening (14), and being rotatable about a lever pin (36) attached to the main body (12) and defining a second rotation axis (38) transverse to the first surface (12a), wherein the lever (34) is positionable in a first position or in a second position angularly rotated with respect to the first position around the second rotation axis (38), wherein, when the lever (34) is in the first position, the second end (34b) of the lever (34) is abutting a stop surface (12c) of the main body (12), and when the lever (34) is in the second position, the lever (34) extends radially with respect to the main body (12).
6. The belay device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein one or more relieving holes extend through the main body (12) and / or the first pivot plate (16).
7. The belay device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the main body (12) further has a second surface (12b) opposite the first surface (12a), the belay device (10) further comprising: - a second rotation pivot (19) attached to the second surface (12b) and extending transversely to the second surface (12b), the second rotation pivot (19) being aligned with the first rotation pivot (18) along the first rotation axis (20); - a second locking pivot (27) extending transversely to the second surface (12b) and having a first end (27a), attached to the second surface (12b), and a second end (27b) opposite the first end (27a) of the second locking pivot (27); and - a second pivot plate (17) facing the second surface (12b) and having a first (17a), a second (17b) and a third (17c) end, the second pivot plate (17) being coupled, at the first end (17a), to the main body (12) via the second rotation pivot (19) and being rotatable about the first rotation axis (20), wherein the second end (17b) of the second rotatable plate (17) defines a second eyelet (23), wherein the through opening (14), the second rotation pivot (19) and the second locking pivot (27) are misaligned with each other, and wherein the second rotatable plate (17) is positionable in a first position or in a second position angularly rotated with respect to the first position of the second rotatable plate (17) around the first rotation axis (20).
8. The belay device according to claim 7 and claim 2, wherein when the second rotatable plate (17) is in the first position, the second eyelet (23) is aligned with the through opening (14), the third end (17c) of the second rotatable plate (17) is abutting the second end (27b) of the second locking pivot (27), the first (17a) and the third (17c) ends of the second rotatable plate (17) have said first distance (D3) from the second surface (12b), the second end (17b) of the second rotatable plate (17) is in grazing contact with the second surface (12b), and a connecting portion (17‴) of the second rotatable plate (17) extends transversely to the second surface (12b) and joins together the first (17a), second (17b) and third (17c) ends of the second rotatable plate (17), and wherein, when the second rotatable plate (17) is in the second position, the second eyelet (23) is misaligned with respect to the through opening (14), the third end (17c) of the second rotatable plate (17) is not abutting the second end (27b) of the second locking pivot (27), and the second end (17b) of the second rotatable plate (17) is not in direct physical contact with the second surface (12b).
9. The belay device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the belay device (10) is symmetrical with respect to a plane of symmetry (35) parallel to the first surface (12a) and passing through the main body (12).
10. The belay device according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a first friction element (46) which extends in the area of the first surface (12a) of the semiconductor body (12), is constrained to the semiconductor body (12) and extends, in particular from the first locking pivot (26), between the through opening (14) and the first rotation pivot (18), at a distance from the first rotation pivot (18), wherein the first friction element (46) has a first friction surface (48a) which faces the first rotation pivot (18).
11. A climbing belay system (50) comprising: - a belay device (10) according to any one of the preceding claims; - a climbing rope (40) couplable to the belay device (10); and - a carabiner (58) attachable to an anchoring support (54) and configured to extend through the through opening (14) and the first eyelet (22), wherein, when the rope (40) is coupled to the belay device (10), the rope (40) extends, parallel to the first surface (12a), along a serpentine path defined by the first rotation pivot (18) and the first locking pivot (26), and, transversely to the first surface (12a), the rope (40) is constrained by the main body (12) and the first rotatable plate (16).
12. The belay system according to claim 11, wherein when the first rotatable plate (16) is in the first position, the first eyelet (22) is aligned with the through opening (14), the third end (16c) of the first rotatable plate (16) is abutting the second end (26b) of the first locking pivot (26), the first (16a) and the third (16c) ends of the first rotatable plate (16) have a first distance (D3) from the first surface (12a), the second end (16b) of the first rotatable plate (16) is in grazing contact with the first surface (12a), and a connecting portion (16‴) of the first rotatable plate (16) extends transversely to the first surface (12a) and joins together the first (16a), second (16b) and third (16c) ends of the first rotatable plate (16), and when the first rotatable plate (16) is in the second position, the first eyelet (22) is misaligned with respect to the through opening (14), the third end (16c) of the first rotatable plate (16) is not abutting the second end (26b) of the first locking pivot (26), and the second end (16b) of the first rotatable plate (16) is not in direct physical contact with the first surface (12a), wherein the serpentine path comprises, in mutual succession: - a first straight section (40a) toward the first rotation pivot (18); - a first sharp bend (40b) around the first rotation pivot (18); - a second straight section (40c) between the first rotation pivot (18) and the first locking pivot (26); - a second sharp bend (40d) around the first locking pivot (26); and - a third straight section (40e) laterally comprised between the first rotation pivot (18) and the connecting portion (16‴) of the first rotatable plate (16).
13. The belay system according to claim 12, wherein a first portion of the rope (40) is in the third straight section (40e) and a second portion of the rope (40) is in the second straight section (40c), and wherein, when the first and second portions of the rope (40) are not mutually abutting, the sliding of the rope (40) in the belay device (10) is allowed, and when the first and second portions of the rope (40) are mutually abutting, the sliding of the rope (40) in the belay device (10) is prevented.
14. The belay system according to claim 12, wherein the belay device (10) further comprises a first friction element (46) which extends in the area of the first surface (12a) of the semiconductor body (12), is constrained to the semiconductor body (12) and extends, in particular from the first locking pivot (26), between the through opening (14) and the first rotation pivot (18), at a distance from the first rotation pivot (18), wherein the first friction element (46) has a first friction surface (48a) which faces the first rotation pivot (18), wherein a first portion of the rope (40) is in the third straight section (40e) and a second portion of the rope (40) is in the second straight section (40c), wherein the first friction element (46) is interposed between the first portion and the second portion of the rope (40), and wherein, when the second portion of the rope (40) and the first friction surface (48a) are at a distance, the sliding of the rope (40) in the belay device (10) is allowed and when the second portion of the rope (40) and the first friction surface (48a) are mutually abutting, the sliding of the rope (40) in the belay device (10) is prevented.
15. A method of using a belay device (10) according to any one of the claims 1-10, comprising performing in succession with each other the steps of: - arranging the first rotatable plate (16) in the second position; - coupling a climbing rope (40) to the belay device (10), arranging the rope (40) along a serpentine path defined by the first rotation pivot (18) and the first locking pivot (26); - arranging the first rotatable plate (16) in the first position; and - inserting a climbing carabiner (58) into the through opening (14) and first eyelet (22).
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Descending protector
CN215762929U
Rope brake
CZ35806U1
Manually operable braking device for a line
EP0694317A2
descender
EP0888151B1
Self-locking descender
GB2044414A