Cosmetic uses of a hydrolysed extract of silybum marianum seed cake

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a hydrolysed extract of Silybum marianum seed cake in order to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of skin appendages. The invention also relates to a cosmetic care method comprising the topical application of the hydrolysed cake extract or a cosmetic composition containing same.

Description

Cosmetic uses of a hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake Technical Field

[0001] The invention relates to cosmetic uses of a hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake. Prior art

[0002] The care of skin appendages such as nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, involves a global treatment, that is to say a direct treatment of the keratin fiber but also of the corresponding area of ​​skin, including the scalp and hair follicles (or hair bulbs and hair fibers).

[0003] In addition, direct care of the hair fiber involves treating the proteins that make it up. Hair proteins such as keratins are particularly sensitive to damage induced by lifestyle, exposure to chemical hygiene products such as their nature and frequency of use, styling habits but also environmental conditions, i.e. sun, pollution, salt, wind, variations in climatic conditions, lifestyle in general as well as age. These proteins will denature and make the skin appendages less resistant, less flexible, brittle, but also duller and especially split hairs. These appendages then lose their biomechanical properties.

[0004] One solution is the addition of exogenous hydrolyzed proteins to compensate for damage to keratin proteins and improve the hydration and elasticity of keratin fibers, particularly hair fibers. These proteins thus give the fibers more softness, shine, bounce, and body.

[0005] Hydrolysis (chemical, thermal or enzymatic) of these proteins is a preliminary process necessary to fragment them into low molecular weight, in order to promote their solubility in water and their penetration into the keratin fiber, and facilitate their formulation. Only molecules with a low weight-average molecular weight (less than 7 kDa) can in fact penetrate into keratin fiber, especially in damaged hair fibers. They help strengthen the keratin fiber from the inside, making the keratin fiber stronger, more elastic, less brittle and in particular the hair fiber less split.

[0006] High-performance hydrolyzed proteins exhibit adhesion properties to the hair fiber (weak bonds with hair keratins) due to ionic charges and polar sites (interactions by van der Walls forces). They can also form protective films on the surface of the hair fiber.

[0007] Hydrolyzed protein products already exist on the cosmetics market. These proteins are of plant or animal origin. The most common are hydrolyzed proteins from wheat, silk, keratin, collagen, elastin, milk, or almonds. However, there is a constant need for effective alternative ingredients in this field.

[0008] Quite unexpectedly, the Applicant discovered that a hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake had the ability to penetrate the keratin fiber, to increase its biomechanical properties. This hydrolyzed extract proved capable of acting on the quality of the skin appendages, increasing their resistance and reducing their breakage, in particular that of the hair, making them shinier, more radiant and with volume. In addition, the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake has skin appendage repair properties as will be demonstrated in the remainder of the description.

[0009] An advantage of the hydrolyzed extract according to the present invention is that it is a co-product derived from an industrial extraction residue that is usually not recovered and considered as industrial waste, this invention thus being part of an eco-responsible approach. Another advantage is that it is an ingredient providing complete care, as it has effects both on the keratin fiber, in particular the hair, but also on the hair follicles. In addition, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention can be easily produced on an industrial scale. Finally, enzymatic hydrolysis makes it possible to fractionate the proteins of the cake to recover low molecular weight peptides, precisely those which can penetrate keratin fibers to ensure the cosmetic effects described here.

[0010] The hydrolyzed extract according to the invention comes from the cake of the SHybum marianum plant. This plant, also called Milk Thistle, has been known for thousands of years for its hepatic action. It is still used in Asia and Africa for the treatment of kidney problems, gastrointestinal disorders, heart disease, rheumatism, and fever. It is mainly the seeds that are used for these therapeutic purposes.

[0011] The young stems, seeds, and fleshy sprouts are still traditionally consumed in several countries in the Middle East, North Africa, Sardinia, and Spain. The fruits of Si / ybum marianum can be used either for oil extraction or as flour, mixed with wheat flour, for the preparation of various baked goods, or as food products. [2\Siiybum marianum is also used generally in cosmetics, notably with the use of the flowers (without the seeds) to improve the elasticity, firmness, barrier effect and hydration of the skin as well as to reduce hair loss.

[0013] Application DE 4323614 discloses a milk thistle fruit extract used as a hair growth and regeneration agent.

[0014] Application CN 103446021 discloses an extract of SHybum marianum seeds obtained by heating and extraction with propylene glycol of the whole seeds protecting the hair from damage caused by UV rays, in particular with an anti-oxidant action allowing the protection of the hair color but also improving firmness and resistance to tension.

[0015] Patent FR3053253 describes a preparation process for obtaining an extract of SHybum marianum achenes comprising less than 0.2% silymarin. Said process comprises an extraction of the oil by a solvent included among a hydrotropic aqueous solution, subcritical water, ethanol, isopropanol or their mixtures.

[0016] Thus, to the applicant's knowledge, no prior art discloses the cosmetic uses of the hydrolyzed extract according to the present invention. No document alone or in combination suggests them either. Statement of the invention

[0017] A first object thus concerns the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of cutaneous appendages, advantageously keratin fibers, preferentially hair.

[0018] A second subject relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention in a cosmetic composition.

[0019] A 3rd object relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care process comprising the topical application of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0020] A first object therefore concerns the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of cutaneous appendages, advantageously keratin fibers, preferentially hair.

[0021] The term "hydrolyzed extract" means the product obtained after enzymatic or chemical hydrolysis in an aqueous solvent, of the seed cake of Siiybum marianum. In a preferred embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract is obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis.

[0022] The term "cake" means the co-product of seed extraction, i.e. the residue obtained after extraction of the oil. Preferably, the Si / ybum marianum seed cake used is a defatted Si / ybum marianum seed cake.

[0023] “Defatted” means an oil content of the cake strictly less than 10% by weight, preferably strictly less than 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cake.

[0024] The term "oil" generally refers to all the lipophilic compounds such as fat-soluble vitamins, fatty acids, mono-, triglycerides and phospholipids contained in the seed of Si / ybum marianum.

[0025] The term "seeds" means the fruit or achene without its envelope. This envelope, otherwise called pericarp, is therefore not contained in the seeds according to the invention.

[0026] “Cosmetic use” means a non-therapeutic, non-pharmaceutical or dermatological use, i.e. one which does not require or involve therapeutic treatment and is intended for healthy skin appendages and / or healthy skin containing skin appendages.

[0027] "Healthy" means skin appendages and / or skin described as non-pathological by a specialist in the field, a dermatologist, i.e. which do not present candidiasis, diseases or affection, infection, inflammation, scar, disease or skin affection such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, in particular seborrheic, dandruff, or wounds or injuries and / or other dermatoses and / or alopecia and / or baldness and / or alopecia areata.

[0028] Thus, within the meaning of the invention, “damaged” skin appendages are appendages described as “non-pathological” by the specialist in the field. They are therefore healthy while being damaged. In particular, damaged skin appendages are appendages which have lost their flexibility and / or their plasticity and / or their resistance and / or their strength and / or their shine and / or their color and / or their volume and which, consequently, are in particular dehydrated. “Damaged” skin appendages have thus lost their biomechanical properties. Thus, they become dull, dry, are less resistant, become friable, fragile, brittle, split and / or curl and / or are split. “Damaged” skin appendages can result from exposure to stress such as environmental conditions such as wind, cold, salt, chlorine, pollution, sun, lifestyle or even age, but also from exposure to chemical or mechanical aggressions due to daily treatments of the appendages such as rubbing, styling, curling, coloring, bleaching, straightening, hairdrying, cosmetic or hygiene chemicals such as nail polish, makeup and / or makeup remover, shampoos, conditioners or creams.

[0029] Keratin fibers, especially hair, are also more difficult to style and shape. This loss of hair surface quality is visible and unsightly. Hair also reflects less light and is therefore visibly less shiny, less colorful, and less luminous. It is also thinner and less thick. This is particularly the case with colored or highlighted hair.

[0030] Here, the term "cutaneous appendages" means hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, in particular beard hair, and / or nails. According to the invention, the beard includes the moustache. Preferably, it is the hair.

[0031] The term "keratin fibers" refers to all the fibers constituting the human hair system, in particular hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, in particular beard hair, including the mustache. Preferably, this refers to hair.

[0032] The hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is a topically acceptable ingredient.

[0033] “Topically acceptable” means an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin, particularly the scalp, or skin appendages, not inducing an allergic or inflammatory response, and not chemically unstable.

[0034] The use of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention can be topically.

[0035] "Topical route" means the direct local application and / or spraying of the ingredient onto the surface of the skin, particularly the scalp, or skin appendages, particularly the hair.

[0036] The hydrolyzed extract can be applied topically to all or part of the surface of the skin containing cutaneous appendages, in particular the scalp, or to all or part of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously to the nails, hair, body hair, in particular beard hair, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, more advantageously to keratin fibers, even more advantageously to the hair.

[0037] An object of the invention thus relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of skin appendages, advantageously keratin fibers, more advantageously hair and / or to maintain and / or increase their biomechanical properties.

[0038] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "repairing the biomechanical properties" means improving and / or increasing at least partially the biomechanical properties of skin appendages damaged due to exposure to environmental, chemical, biological and / or mechanical aggressions, preferably keratin fibers, advantageously hair. In particular, the repaired skin appendages can regain the biomechanical properties they had before being damaged, i.e. those of the undamaged skin appendages.It is therefore possible to compare the effect of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention on these biomechanical properties by comparing, for example, the biomechanical properties of the skin appendages before and after treatment with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention or by comparing the biomechanical properties of the damaged skin appendages after treatment with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention with the biomechanical properties of the undamaged skin appendages.

[0039] For the purposes of the invention, “maintaining the biomechanical properties” means preventing and / or avoiding the degradation of the properties biomechanical properties of skin appendages, preferably keratin fibers, advantageously hair, in particular when exposed to environmental, chemical, biological and / or mechanical aggressions, in particular by preventing the skin appendages from becoming damaged skin appendages and / or by preventing these skin appendages from becoming further damaged. It is therefore possible to compare the effect of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention on these biomechanical properties by comparing, for example, the biomechanical properties of skin appendages treated with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and exposed to environmental, chemical, biological and / or mechanical aggressions with the biomechanical properties of skin appendages not treated with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and exposed to environmental, chemical, biological and / or mechanical aggressions.

[0040] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "increasing the biomechanical properties" means improving the biomechanical properties of skin appendages, preferably keratin fibers, advantageously hair, in particular skin appendages damaged due to exposure to environmental, chemical, biological and / or mechanical aggressions, but also undamaged skin appendages. It is therefore possible to compare the effect of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention on these biomechanical properties by comparing, for example, the biomechanical properties of the skin appendages before and after treatment with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.

[0041] For the purposes of the invention, the term "biomechanical properties" means the resistance and / or strength and / or volume and / or color and / or shine and / or plasticity, i.e. their non-brittle appearance, and / or the flexibility of the skin appendages, preferably of the keratin fibers, advantageously of the hair.

[0042] Advantageously, the use of a hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake is used to repair skin appendages, preferably keratin fibers, advantageously hair.

[0043] Preferably, the use of a hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake is to maintain and / or increase resistance and / or the strength and / or the volume and / or the color and / or the shine and / or the plasticity, that is to say the non-brittle appearance, and / or the flexibility of the skin appendages, preferably of the keratin fibers, advantageously of the hair.

[0044] These properties can be evaluated ex-vivo by mechanical tests where the resistance of the skin appendages, preferentially keratin fibers, more preferentially hair, to the forces of tension, stretching, bending, friction and torsion is measured. These biomechanical parameters, particularly those of hair, can be evaluated in response to stretching and can be measured for example by the tensile test (Dia-Stron). The measured parameters can be the elastic modulus (Pa), the elongation at break (%), the breaking force (gmf), the gradient of the plastic deformation region (gmf / % elongation) and are normalized with respect to the diameter of the skin appendages. This last parameter (gradient) allows the measurement of the plasticity of the material under study just before breakage. The technique makes it possible to obtain a stress (or force) curve as a function of the characteristic elongation of the material under study.It is known that an increase in elongation at break and a decrease in the plastic deformation gradient can be observed on hair fibers (cutaneous appendages) damaged by oxidation, reduction or ultraviolet irradiation following the breakage of disulfide bridges in free groups in the cortical domain.

[0045] In one embodiment of the invention, "maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties" of the skin appendages means reducing the Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs) which appear during chrono-induced or photo-induced aging in particular, but also which appear on a daily basis in response to environmental conditions, in contact with oxidative chemical or physical agents. These glycation products reduce the biomechanical properties of the skin appendages.

[0046] Environmental aggressions include in particular smoke, in particular from cigarettes, pollution in particular metals, fine particles PM2.5 and PM10, temperature in particular heat and cold and their variations sudden, water content, in particular humidity or dryness, solar irradiation, in particular visible spectrums, UV and / or gamma rays and / or blue light, rain, wind, dust, and sea salt, swimming pool water, in particular chlorine and transition metals present in the water, but also intrinsic and / or chrono-induced aging. The latter is in fact also responsible for the loss of structural and / or functional qualities of the skin appendages, preferentially keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, more particularly hair.

[0047] Chemical aggressions include chemical agents such as aggressive convenience, hygiene and beauty products, in particular shampoos and aggressive hair care and / or treatments, particularly for styling, shaping such as straightening and / or perming and / or for coloring and / or bleaching, chlorine and transition metals present in swimming pool water, varnishes and / or solvents, solvents, makeup products.

[0048] Mechanical stresses include friction such as brushing and / or rubbing against fabrics (pillows, clothing) and / or particles such as dust and / or sand, heat from hair dryers and straighteners, and / or styling including exposure to pulling, stretching and / or twisting forces.

[0049] Thus, in one embodiment of the invention, the capacity of the extract according to the invention to "repair" damaged skin appendages can be evaluated using existing techniques in the field. Conventional methods for measuring a repair effect make it possible to measure the capacity of the product being evaluated to restore a visual, structural and / or functional state of a damaged skin appendage, preferably damaged hair, comparable to the state of an undamaged skin appendage, preferably undamaged hair. They are carried out on damaged (or damaged) skin appendages, preferably hair, and the repair effect is measured by comparison with the undamaged (or damaged) skin appendages, preferably hair. Advantageously, the repairing effect is a repairing effect on damaged (or damaged) skin appendages. damaged in vitro by an oxidizing agent, which induces denaturation of the proteins of the annexes. Advantageously, this is a repairing effect of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention on the hair and preferably still the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. Even more advantageously, this protein denaturation is evaluated by measuring the protein denaturation temperature (°C) by differential scanning calorimetry (Wortmann and Deutz, Appl. Polym. Sci., 48, 137-150 (1993)) using a differential enthalpy analyzer (DSC Q100, TA Instruments), under the conditions described in example 10.

[0050] To evaluate this effect of repair of the cutaneous appendages in vivo, advantageously of the hair, several methods can be used, chosen from video microscopy, confocal microscopy, IRTF or Raman microscopy, X-rays, and electron microscopy, the aim of which is in particular to observe the state and / or quality of the cuticle, the protective envelope of the keratin fiber of the cutaneous appendages. Microscopy studies on whole hair allow the visualization and quantification of the detached scales as an indicator of surface damage. These methods can be used on hair sections to also observe the state and / or quality of the cortex of the keratin fiber.Physical surface quantification methods for assessing the morphology of skin appendages, particularly hair, such as Atomic Force Microscopy or White-light interferometric profilometry, for assessing chemistry (XPS), charge (Streaming potential) or even energy (inverse Gas Chromatography) can be implemented.

[0051] To evaluate the repair effect of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention on the internal properties of skin appendages, in particular hair, calorimetry (DSC) can be used.

[0052] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "maintain and / or increase the volume" means maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of the cutaneous appendages over their entire length, preferably maintaining and / or increasing the diameter of the keratin fibers, advantageously the diameter of the hair.

[0053] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties" of the skin appendages means maintaining and / or increasing their resistance and / or their shine and / or their color and / or their volume and / or their strength and / or their plasticity property, i.e. their non-brittle appearance and / or their flexibility. These properties can be measured by the following methods and described in the following paragraphs and corresponding examples: - by measuring the anti-radical activity, in particular in-tubo as described in example 3; - by measuring the chelating activity of transition metals such as iron (Fe), in particular in-tubo as described in example 4; - by measuring the chelating activity of transition metals such as copper (Cu), in particular in-tubo as described in example 5; - by measuring the anti-glycation activity on the proteins of the cutaneous appendages, in particular in vitro as described in example 6; - by measuring the carbonylation of keratins and associated proteins of the skin appendages, in particular ex vivo, as described in examples 7a and b); - ex-vivo by measuring the hair protection score (HPS) as described in example 7d; - ex-vivo by measuring the stabilization of cysteine ​​groups as in example 9; - ex-vivo by tension force tests (Diastron), fatigue tests, or repeated hair styling tests to assess breakage as in examples 11 and 13; - ex-vivo by measuring the color variations of the cutaneous appendages as in example 12; - in vitro by measuring the quantity of ATP in the fibroblasts of the papilla of hair follicles as in example 14.

[0054] These properties can be evaluated in-tubo by measuring the anti-radical activity, for example by the DPPH test, measured in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention. Thus, in a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount for " maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the skin appendages, when the percentage of inhibition of oxidation of the free radical DPPH° in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, under the conditions described in Example 3, is greater than 50%, advantageously greater than 65%, more advantageously greater than 80%, preferably greater than 90% compared to the percentage of inhibition of oxidation of the free radical DPPH°, measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention. Advantageously, the skin appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0055] These properties can also be evaluated in-tubo by measuring the chelating activity of transition metals such as iron (Fe), for example with tryptophan degradation tests and / or tests for the formation of dityrosine and / or pentosidine and / or fluorescent glycation products, measured in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, following the oxidation of albumin, used as a protein model, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide and iron as an oxidation catalyst.

[0056] In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the skin appendages, when the protection index calculated under the conditions of example 4 for the tryptophan degradation test is greater than 10%, advantageously greater than 15%, more advantageously greater than 20%, in particular greater than 25%, more particularly greater than 30%, even more particularly greater than 35%. Advantageously, the skin appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0057] In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, when the percentage of dityrosine formation is reduced in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 4, by at least 10%, advantageously by at least 15%, more advantageously by at least 20%, preferably by at least 25% compared to the percentage of dityrosine formation measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, and / or when the protection index calculated under the conditions of example 4 for the dityrosine formation test is greater than 30%, advantageously greater than 35%, more advantageously greater than 60%, in particular greater than 65%. Advantageously, the cutaneous appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0058] In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, when the percentage of pentosidine formation is reduced in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 4, by at least 10%, advantageously by at least 25%, relative to the percentage of pentosidine formation measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, and / or when the protection index calculated under the conditions of Example 4 for the pentosidine formation test is greater than 50%, advantageously greater than 60%. Advantageously, the cutaneous appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0059] In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, when the percentage of formation of fluorescent glycation products is reduced in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 4, by at least 5%, advantageously by at least 10%, more advantageously by at least 13%, relative to the percentage of formation of glycation products measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, and / or when the protection index calculated under the conditions of Example 4 for the test of formation of fluorescent glycation products is greater than 10%, advantageously greater than 15%, more advantageously greater than 20%, in particular greater than 25%. Advantageously, the cutaneous appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0060] The biomechanical properties according to the invention can also be evaluated in-tubo by measuring the chelating activity of transition metals such as copper (Cu), for example with the lipid oxidation test evaluated by the formation of malondialdehyde (MDA) in the presence of copper (Cu) (oxidation catalysts) and thiobarbituric acid (TBA) in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, when the percentage of oxidized lipids is reduced by the MDA assay in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 5, by at least 20%, advantageously by at least 40%, more advantageously by at least 60%, preferably by at least 75%, relative to the percentage of oxidized lipids by the MDA assay measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and / or when the protection index calculated under the conditions of Example 5 for the fluorescent glycation product formation test is greater than 60%, advantageously greater than 75%, more advantageously greater than 90%, in particular greater than 95%. Advantageously, the cutaneous appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0061] These properties can further be evaluated in vitro by measuring the anti-glycation activity on the proteins of the cutaneous appendages, for example with the dityrosine and / or pentosidine formation test measured after incubation of said appendages in a glucose solution in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, when the percentage of dityrosine formation is reduced in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 6, by at least 5%, advantageously by at least 10%, more advantageously by at least 15%, relative to the percentage of dityrosine formation measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, and / or when the protection index calculated under the conditions of Example 6 for the dityrosine formation test is greater than 40%, advantageously greater than 45%, more advantageously. greater than 50%, in particular greater than 55%. Advantageously, the cutaneous appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0062] In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, when the percentage of pentosidine formation is reduced in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 6, by at least 5%, advantageously by at least 10%, more advantageously by at least 15%, relative to the percentage of pentosidine formation measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and / or when the protection index calculated under the conditions of Example 6 for the pentosidine formation test is greater than 40%, advantageously greater than 45%, more advantageously greater than 50%, in particular greater than 55%. Advantageously, the cutaneous appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0063] The biomechanical properties can also be evaluated ex-vivo by measuring the carbonylation of keratins and their associated proteins, for example by the particle (pollution) and UV test, measured in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, when the percentage of carbonylated proteins (oxidation products) is reduced in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, in particular at the level of the cuticle, even more particularly at the level of the cortex, preferably under the conditions described in Example 7, by at least 5%, advantageously at least 15%, more advantageously at least 20%, preferably at least 25%, more advantageously at least 30% at the level of the cortex, relative to the percentage of carbonylated proteins, measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and / or when the protection index calculated under the conditions of Example 7 is greater than 40%, advantageously greater than 45%, more advantageously greater than 50%, in particular. greater than 55%. Advantageously, the cutaneous appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0064] The biomechanical properties can further be evaluated in vitro by measuring the oxidative stress of the skin appendages, for example with the optical measurement of the birefringence properties, in particular the birefringence index (Kindex) of the skin appendages treated with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, when the Kindex value in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 7c, increases by at least 5%, advantageously by at least 10%, more advantageously by at least 13%, compared to the Kindex value measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and / or when the improvement index calculated under the conditions of Example 7c is greater than 40%, advantageously greater than 45%, more advantageously greater than 50%, in particular greater than 55%. Advantageously, the cutaneous appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair. Still advantageously, it is the hydrolyzed extract as prepared according to Example 1a).

[0065] The biomechanical properties can also be evaluated ex-vivo by measuring the hair protection score (HPS) to classify hair care products, on damaged skin appendages (UVA irradiation and particles), treated with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention. In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to “maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties” of the skin appendages, preferably under the conditions described in example 7d, when the HPS is greater than 30, preferably equal to or greater than 50. Advantageously, the skin appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0066] These properties can also be evaluated ex vivo by measuring the stabilization of cysteine ​​groups, for example by measuring the vibrational spectra of keratins from damaged skin appendages treated with the extract. hydrolyzed according to the invention. In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, when the absorption bands of 1174, 1116, 1150 and / or 840 cm 1 of damaged skin appendages decrease in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 9, by at least 5%, advantageously by at least 15%, more advantageously by at least 20%, even more advantageously by at least 35%, compared to the absorption bands of 1174, 1116, 1150 and / or 840 cm 1measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention on skin appendages damaged by bleaching and / or when the effectiveness index calculated under the conditions of example 9 is greater than 5%, advantageously greater than 10%, more advantageously greater than 13%. Advantageously, the skin appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0067] The biomechanical properties, in particular strength and / or plasticity and / or resistance and / or flexibility, can also be evaluated ex vivo by measuring the stability of the damaged skin appendages, for example by measuring the denaturation temperature of the proteins of the damaged skin appendages using hydrogen peroxide, then treated with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the strength and / or plasticity and / or resistance and / or flexibility" of the skin appendages, when the denaturation temperature increases in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 10, by at least 2°C, advantageously by at least 5°C, compared to the denaturation temperature measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and / or when the repair index compared to the skin appendages treated with placebo or untreated, calculated under the conditions of Example 10 is greater than 40%, advantageously greater than 45%, more advantageously greater than 50%, in particular greater than 60%. Advantageously, the skin appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0068] These properties can also be evaluated by tension force tests (Diastron), fatigue tests, or repeated hair styling tests to assess breakage. It is also possible to quantify hair fibers with split ends. These biomechanical properties can also be evaluated by measuring the styling force required on dry or wet hair. In particular, these properties can be evaluated ex-vivo by measuring the breakage of the skin appendages, for example by a fatigability test on damaged skin appendages, preferably treated with hydrogen peroxide, then treated with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the strength and / or plasticity and / or resistance and / or flexibility" of the skin appendages, when the number of cycles before rupture of the skin appendages or the reinforcement index of the hair fiber in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 11, is greater than 10%, preferably greater than 20%, more preferably greater than 30%, relative to the number of cycles before rupture of the skin appendages or the reinforcement index measured in the absence of treatment with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention. Advantageously, the skin appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair. More advantageously, it is the hydrolyzed extract as prepared according to Example 1a).

[0069] In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the strength and / or plasticity and / or resistance and / or flexibility" of the skin appendages, when the reduction in the percentage of breakage after repeated styling of the damaged skin appendages and in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 13, is greater than 50%, preferably greater than 70%, more preferably greater than 75%, compared to the percentage of breakage of the skin appendages measured in the absence of treatment with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention. Advantageously, the skin appendages are keratin fibers, preferably the hair. Advantageously, it is the hydrolyzed extract as prepared according to example 1c).

[0070] The biomechanical properties of color and / or brightness can be evaluated ex-vivo by measuring the color variations of the skin appendages, for example by a colorimetry test (Delta a* and Delta E*) on damaged skin appendages, preferably using hydrogen peroxide, and having undergone sun exposure, then treated with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the color and / or shine" of the skin appendages, when the value of Delta a* in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably under the conditions described in Example 12, increases by 4%, preferably by 6%, compared to the Delta a* value measured in the absence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and / or the % effectiveness calculated under the conditions of Example 12 for Delta a* is at least 20%, advantageously at least 30%, in particular at least 80% and / or the value of Delta E* decreases by 2%, preferably by 3%, compared to the Delta E* value measured in the absence of treatment with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and / or the % effectiveness calculated under the conditions of Example 12 for Delta E* is at least 15%, advantageously at least 20%, in particular at least 25%.Advantageously, the cutaneous appendages are keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0071] The biomechanical properties can further be evaluated in vitro by measuring the amount of ATP in the papilla fibroblasts of the hair follicles. In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to "maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties" of the cutaneous appendages, preferably the keratin fibers, advantageously the hair, when the percentage of papilla fibroblast aggregates in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, preferably in the presence of the hydrolyzed extract as prepared according to Example 1a, under the conditions described in Example 14, is greater than 10%, preferably greater than 20%, more preferably is greater than 25%, advantageously greater than 30% compared to the percentage of papilla fibroblast aggregates measured in the absence of treatment with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.

[0072] The hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is therefore effective and can be used to maintain and / or increase the resistance and / or flexibility and / or strength and / or volume and / or color and / or shine and / or plasticity of the skin appendages, and preferably those of the hair, and is thus capable of reducing their fragility, breakage, roughness, and thus improving detangling and / or styling.

[0073] "Maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties" of the skin appendages, advantageously the hair, also means making said skin appendages, advantageously the hair, visually smoother and / or shinier and / or brighter and / or more disciplined and / or less split. These properties can be evaluated by imaging technique, for example by video microscopy or electron microscopy, or by sensory tests for example on locks of hair, carried out by external volunteers trained to define their visual or tactile sensations or by evaluation tests by experts (hairdressers for example) or trained volunteers or self-assessment by consumer questionnaires. The effectiveness of a product in its formula is evaluated according to perceptible visual or tactile quality criteria, in particular of the hair.

[0074] The repair properties and / or increase in the biomechanical properties of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention make it an active cosmetic ingredient for improving the resistance and / or strength and / or volume and / or color and / or shine and / or luster of skin appendages, in particular keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0075] The enzymatic hydrolysis in order to obtain the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention can be carried out in the presence of any protease known to those skilled in the art, and advantageously in the presence of an enzyme of animal origin chosen from pepsin, enzymes of pancreatic origin such as trypsin or chymotrypsin, preferably trypsin, or an enzyme of plant origin. chosen from papain, bromelain, ficin, actinidin, preferably papain, or from an enzyme of bacterial origin chosen from the enzyme originating from the strain Bacillus Hcheniformis in particular marketed under the name Alcalase® or from the strain B. subtilis, preferably the enzyme originating from the strain Bacillus Hcheniformis marketed under the name Alcalase®. In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the enzyme used originates from the strain Bacillus Hcheniformis and is in particular marketed under the name Alcalase®.

[0076] The quantity by weight of SHybum marianum seed cake according to the invention used for the hydrolysis is advantageously between 1% and 20%, more advantageously between 2% and 15%, even more advantageously between 10% and 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the solvent and the cake.

[0077] The solvent usable for hydrolysis can be an aqueous solvent.

[0078] According to the invention, the term "aqueous solvent" means an aqueous extraction solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, even more advantageously not containing glycol and in particular not containing alcohol. The aqueous solvent does not contain hydrotropic aqueous solution, subcritical water, ethanol, isopropanol or propylene glycol.

[0079] Advantageously, the solvent used is water as the only solvent.

[0080] The hydrolysis can be carried out at a pH between 3 and 10 depending on the optimum pH of the enzyme, and advantageously at a pH between 7 and 9, very advantageously at a pH between 7.5 and 8.5, even more advantageously at a pH of 7.5.

[0081] Alternatively, enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out in the presence of papain, at a pH between 3 and 5.5, preferably between 4.5 and 5.

[0082] The hydrolysis can be carried out at a temperature between 30°C and 75°C, advantageously between 50°C and 70°C, in particular between 55°C and 65°C, preferably at 65°C. It can be carried out for a period of 30 minutes to 24 hours, preferably 45 minutes to 12 hours, more preferably 50 minutes to 6 hours, very preferably 1 hour to 3 hours.

[0083] The quantity by weight of enzyme used for the hydrolysis is between 0.1% and 25% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 20% by weight, more preferably between 0.75% and 10% by weight, advantageously between 1% and 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the cake.

[0084] The enzyme used can then be inactivated by heating, advantageously at a temperature of 80°C to 100°C and very advantageously at a temperature of 90°C, in particular for a period of 10 minutes to 3 hours, preferably 10 minutes to 2 hours, more preferably 20 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes. The inactivation of the enzyme can take place at a pH of between 3.5 and 8, preferably between 4 and 7, more preferably between 4 and 6.5, advantageously at pH 6.0.

[0085] The hydrolyzed extract obtained can then be centrifuged and then clarified by successive filtrations up to a porosity of 0.22pm (filtration threshold).

[0086] The hydrolyzed extract according to the invention can therefore be in liquid form advantageously comprising a dry matter content of 1% to 20% by weight, advantageously of 2 to 10% by weight, more advantageously between 3 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hydrolyzed extract in liquid form.

[0087] In an alternative embodiment, an aqueous extraction step is carried out before the hydrolysis step, by any method known to those skilled in the art, in particular by maceration, and advantageously by extraction with water as the sole solvent. The quantity by weight of cake used for the aqueous extraction is between 1 and 20%, advantageously between 2% and 15%, still advantageously between 10% and 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of solvent and cake.

[0088] In this case, the aqueous extraction can be carried out at a pH between 7.5 and 12, advantageously at a pH between 8 and 9, very advantageously at a pH of 9, advantageously for a period of 30 minutes to 2 hours, preferably for a period of 1 hour.

[0089] The aqueous extraction can be carried out at a temperature between 4°C and 300°C, advantageously between 15°C and 100°C, still advantageously between 20°C and 90°C, very advantageously between 20°C and 70°C. In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the aqueous extraction is carried out at room temperature, i.e. between 20 and 25°C.

[0090] In a preferred embodiment, the aqueous extraction is carried out at 20°C, at pH 12, from a quantity of 15% by weight of cake relative to the total weight of cake and water.

[0091] In another embodiment, the aqueous extraction is carried out at 20°C, at pH 12, from an amount of 12.5% ​​by weight of cake relative to the total weight of cake and water.

[0092] In an alternative embodiment, the aqueous extraction is carried out under subcritical conditions.

[0093] Extraction under "subcritical conditions" means extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature above 100°C and pressure below 22.1 MPa (221 bars), such that the water remains in the liquid state but has a viscosity and surface tension lower than that of water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant. Thus, the extraction pressure will be between 0.2 MPa (2 bars) and 22.1 MPa (221 bars) preferably between 1 and 5 MPa (10 and 50 bars) more preferably between 1 and 2 MPa (10 and 20 bars).

[0094] Thus, under subcritical conditions, the extraction is carried out in water, in particular at a temperature ranging from 100°C to 300°C, advantageously from 120°C to 250°C, more advantageously between 120°C and 180°C. The extraction can be carried out at a single given temperature or at successive increasing temperatures. In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a single temperature of 160°C. In an alternative mode, it will be carried out according to a gradient of three increasing temperatures. between 100°C and 200°C, such as 120°C, 140°C then 160°C or 110°C, 130°C then 150°C, or 120°C, 145°C then 170°C.

[0095] In a preferred embodiment, the subcritical extraction is carried out at a pressure of 5 MPa (50 bars), at a temperature of 120°C for 20 minutes. The extract obtained is then filtered while hot.

[0096] In an alternative embodiment, subcritical extraction is carried out at a pressure of 5 MPa (50 bars), at a temperature of 140°C for 20 minutes. The extract obtained is then filtered while hot.

[0097] In an alternative embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake in liquid form thus obtained can be used as a solvent to hydrolyze a further quantity of Si / ybum marianum seed cake.

[0098] In an advantageous embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract is obtained by enzymatic digestion as follows: the seed cake of Siiybum marianum is ground and is suspended in water (as the sole solvent) at a content of 12.5% ​​by weight of seed cake relative to the total weight of cake and solvent and is subjected to hydrolysis for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 55°C and pH 8.5 with maintenance of the pH during the hydrolysis, with a concentration by weight of 1% of a bacterial protease from the strain Bacillus iicheniformis (Alcalase®) in liquid form relative to the weight of the cake. The enzyme is then inactivated by heating for 1 hour at a temperature of 90°C and pH 4.5. The mixture is then cooled, centrifuged, and the supernatant filtered (filtration threshold: 0.22 pm), under the conditions described in example 1b).

[0099] In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the hydrolyzed extract is obtained by enzymatic digestion as follows: the seed cake of Si / ybum marianum is ground and is suspended in water (as the sole solvent) at a content of 15% by weight of seed cake relative to the total weight of cake and solvent and is subjected to hydrolysis for a period of 2 hours at a temperature of 65°C and at pH 7.5 with pH maintenance during hydrolysis, with a concentration by weight of 1.7% of bacterial protease from the strain Bacillus Hcheniformis (Alcalase®) in liquid form relative to the weight of the cake. The enzyme is then inactivated by heating for 1 h at a temperature of 90°C and at pH 6.0. The mixture is cooled to room temperature (between 20°C and 30°C), centrifuged and filtered (filtration threshold: 0.22 µm) under the conditions as described in example 1a). [OlOOJO"Small peptides" or "small molecular weight peptides" means peptides with a weight average molecular weight of less than 7000 Daltons, analyzed by gel permeation on a column (of the Superdex® peptide 10 / 30 HR GE type or of the Superose® 12 10 / 300 GL type) followed by calibration of the column with protein molecules of known molecular weights (gel permeation chromatography (GPC)).

[0101] Advantageously, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention has a dry mass content of total proteins of between 50% and 95% by weight, preferably between 60% and 90% by weight, more preferably between 60 and 70% by weight, relative to the total dry mass weight of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.

[0102] Advantageously, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention has a dry mass content of peptides with a weight-average molecular weight of between 100 Da and 20 kDa, analyzed by gel permeation on a column (of the Superose® 12 10 / 300 GL type), of between 50% and 90%, preferably between 65% and 90%, more preferably between 75% and 90%, by weight relative to the total dry mass weight of the hydrolyzed peptides of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention.

[0103] Advantageously, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention has a dry mass content of peptides with a weight-average molecular weight of between 1000 Da and 700 Da, analyzed by gel permeation on a column of the Superdex® peptide 10 / 30 HR GE type, of between 60% and 90%, advantageously between 70% and 80%, more advantageously between 75% and 80%, by weight relative to the total dry mass weight of peptides with a molecular weight of between 1000 Da and 7000 Da of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention (sensitivity of the column).

[0104] Advantageously, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention has a dry mass content of peptides with a weight-average molecular weight of between 1000 Da and 2500 Da, analyzed by gel permeation on a column of the Superdex® peptide 10 / 30 HR GE type, of between 70% and 99%, advantageously between 80% and 99%, more advantageously between 90% and 99%, by weight relative to the total dry mass weight of peptides with a molecular weight of between 1000 Da and 7000 Da of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention (sensitivity of the column).

[0105] Still very advantageously, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is not used in combination with a retinoid.

[0106] The hydrolyzed extract according to the invention can be used alone or incorporated into a cosmetic composition.

[0107] In one embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract may then be dried, for example by freeze-drying or by spray-drying in the presence or absence of maltodextrin. The hydrolyzed extract is then in powder form.

[0108] According to one embodiment, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, in particular obtained under the conditions described in examples 1a) and 1b), can be atomized in the presence of a concentration by weight of maltodextrin of between 1% and 99%, advantageously between 5% and 90%, preferably between 40% and 85%, still preferably between 65% and 85%, more preferably between 70% and 80% relative to the total weight of the powder obtained and a concentration by weight of hydrolyzed extract according to the invention of between 1% and 99%, advantageously between 10% and 95%, preferably between 15% and 60%, still preferably between 15% and 25%, more preferably between 20% and 30% relative to the total weight of the powder obtained, advantageously under the conditions of examples 1c) or 1d).

[0109] Alternatively, the hydrolyzed extract can be used alone in solid form, as a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient.

[0110] Alternatively, when used alone in liquid form, as a cosmetic or dermatological ingredient, it is advantageously solubilized in an aqueous solution containing glycerin, advantageously present at a concentration of 60% to 90%, still advantageously from 70% to 85%, very advantageously at a concentration of 80%, by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the hydrolyzed extract.

[0111] In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the hydrolyzed extract will be solubilized and / or diluted in a solvent, in particular a polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, such as pentylene glycol and / or butylene glycol and / or hexylene glycol and / or caprylyl glycol, or one of their mixtures, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, still preferably containing a glycol chosen from hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and any one of their mixtures. Advantageously, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, in particular containing between 0.1% and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient.Advantageously, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is diluted and / or soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01% and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol, preferably between 0.1% and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol, relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the hydrolyzed extract. Alternatively, the solution in which the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is solubilized comprises pentylene glycol and caprylyl glycol.

[0112] In particular, the aqueous solution in which the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is solubilized comprises xanthan gum, in particular between 0.01% and 5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, more particularly between 0.1% and 1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the hydrolyzed extract.

[0113] The hydrolyzed extract may be used alone as a cosmetic ingredient or incorporated into a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0114] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cosmetically acceptable” excipient means a cosmetically acceptable compound and / or solvent, in particularly topically acceptable, that is to say not inducing an inflammatory and allergic response on contact with the skin, in particular the scalp, non-toxic, non-unstable, or their equivalents, undue.

[0115] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetic composition" means a non-therapeutic composition, i.e. a composition intended for the prevention and / or care of the skin, in particular the scalp, and / or the skin appendages, in particular the hair, deemed "normal" by a dermatologist, i.e. non-pathological. Here, the term "normal" skin or scalp or skin appendage or hair means healthy skin or scalp or skin appendage or hair as defined above.

[0116] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is present in the cosmetic composition in a content of between 1x10 4 % to 10% by weight, preferably lxl0“ 3 % to 5% by weight, more preferably lxl0' 3 % to 3% by weight, even more preferably lxl0“ 3% to 1% by weight, advantageously from 0.01 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] The composition can therefore be used to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of skin appendages, advantageously keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0118] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be presented in the galenic forms conventionally used for topical application to the skin or scalp and / or skin appendages, preferably the scalp and / or skin appendages, such as liquid or solid forms or even in the form of pressurized liquid. They may be formulated in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, a cream or an aqueous gel or an oily gel, in particular in a pot or tube, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, a milk, an oil, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, a serum, a lotion, in particular in a glass or plastic bottle or in a dosing bottle or in an aerosol or spray, an ampoule, a liquid soap, a paste, a dermatological bar, an ointment, a mousse, a mask, a lacquer, a patch, a varnish, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of a stick, in particular in stick form or in powder form. It may be a makeup product, in particular for eyelashes or eyebrows, such as a mascara or a pencil, or a makeup removal product for the care and beauty of the eyes and / or a product for the care and beauty of nails and / or for the care and / or beauty of the beard. In particular, the cosmetic composition is chosen from the group consisting of a serum, a lotion, a cream, a shampoo, a conditioner, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a mousse, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, a mask, a lacquer, a spray, a wax, a mascara, a makeup pencil, a varnish, advantageously a shampoo, a conditioner or a lotion.

[0119] Preferably, the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is suitable for the formulation of so-called neutral and gentle compositions to respect the skin appendages, advantageously the keratin fiber, in particular the hair fiber. The hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is also suitable for use in cationic formulations with surfactants.

[0120] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent and / or any suitable vehicle and / or any suitable excipient, optionally in combination with other compounds of interest. They may in particular contain a cosmetically acceptable excipient chosen from surfactants, preservatives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, biocidal agents, denaturants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, solvents, fillers, bactericides, odor absorbers, matting agents, conditioning agents, texturizing agents, shine agents, pigments, colorants, perfumes and chemical or mineral sunscreens, trace elements, essential oils. These combinations are also covered by the present invention.

[0121] The cosmetic composition may contain other cosmetic agents having properties identical to the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and inducing a synergistic effect or not with said hydrolyzed extract, or contain cosmetic agents with complementary effects such as anti-hair loss, hair protection agent, soothing, anti-aging or anti-pollution active ingredient. As an anti-hair loss active ingredient, mention may be made of the combination of sulfopeptides, amino acids, aminosaccharides, vitamin B group, zinc and extract of Panax ginseng and Artium majus marketed under the name Trichogen™ LS 8960 by the applicant or a hair protection agent such as an extract of pericarp of Litchi chinensis marketed under the name Litchiderm™ by the applicant, a soothing and anti-itching active ingredient such as rapeseed phytosterols marketed under the name Phytosoothe™ LS9766 by the applicant.

[0122] Other active ingredients may be present in the composition, such as an extract of Cassia aiata leaves marketed under the name DN-Age™ as an antioxidant active ingredient for hair care in particular, a combination of an extract of Saivia miitiorhizza and niacinamide marketed under the name ColIRepair™ as a deglycating agent, or active ingredients promoting the firmness of the skin and therefore the scalp, such as a synthetic tetrapeptide marketed under the name Dermican™, an extract of Hibiscus abeimoschus marketed under the name Linefactor™, a purified pea extract marketed under the name Proteasyl™, an extract of Maniikara muitinervis marketed under the name Elestan™, an extract of Khaya senegaiensis marketed under the name Collalift™ 18, an extract of Argan pulp marketed under the name of Argassiential™ by the applicant, an extract of Schizandra chinensis marketed under the name Sqisandryl™,an extract of Eperua faicata marketed under the name Eperuline™, or an extract of Orthosiphon staminus marketed under the name MAT-XS™ Bright marketed by the applicant. These combinations of active ingredients make it possible in particular to strengthen the hair follicle and reduce hair loss. The hydrolyzed extract of the invention can also be combined with an extract of seeds of the plant Nepheiium iappaceum, marketed under the name Rambuvital™ by the applicant for its hair-protecting properties, particularly against pollution. The hydrolyzed extract can also be used in combination with a hydrolyzed extract of Hippophae rhamnoides seed cake.

[0123] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention does not comprise retinoid.

[0124] A third subject of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care process, comprising the topical application of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously of the keratin fibers, preferably of the hair.

[0125] In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic care method consists of the topical application of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention or of the cosmetic composition comprising it to all or part of the skin of the body and / or face comprising cutaneous appendages, in particular chosen from the scalp, legs, thighs, arms, stomach, décolleté, neck, all or part of the face, forehead, chin, lip contour, eye contour, the so-called "T" zone of the face, and advantageously the scalp, and / or to all or part of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously to the nails, hair, body hair, in particular beard hair, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, even more advantageously to the hair, preferably to all or part of the keratin fibers, more preferably to all or part of the hair.

[0126] The cosmetic care process therefore makes it possible to maintain and / or increase the resistance and / or strength and / or volume and / or color and / or shine and / or plasticity, i.e. the non-brittle appearance, and / or the flexibility of the skin appendages, advantageously of the keratin fibers, more advantageously of the hair.

[0127] Another object also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties of skin appendages, preferably keratin fibers, advantageously hair, and comprising the steps of: - Identification on a human being not suffering from a pathology, in particular cutaneous, requiring therapeutic treatment, of an area of ​​skin of the body and / or face comprising cutaneous appendages and / or an area of ​​cutaneous appendages for which it is desired to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of said cutaneous appendages, preferably keratin fibers, advantageously hair, and / or which need them; - Topical application to said area of ​​the skin of the body and / or face comprising skin appendages and / or to said area of ​​skin appendages of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention or of the composition comprising it, in particular at a content of between 1 x 10 4 % to 10% by weight, preferably lxl0' 3 % to 5% by weight, more preferably lxl0' 3 % to 3% by weight, even more preferably lxl0' 3% to 1% by weight, advantageously from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] The examples are an integral part of the invention and any feature appearing new over a prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, is an integral part of the invention. Thus, each example has a general scope.

[0129] Unless otherwise stated, temperature is in degrees Celsius and pressure is atmospheric pressure. Description of the embodiments EXAMPLES Example 1: Different methods of preparing the hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to the invention

[0130] The cake used in the following examples contains less than 8% by weight of lipids relative to the total weight of the cake. Example 1: Enzymatic hydrolysis - Hydrolyzed extract 1

[0131] A seed cake of Si / ybum marianum is ground and suspended in water (as the sole solvent) at a content of 15% by weight of seed cake relative to the total weight of cake and solvent and is subjected to hydrolysis for a period of 2 hours at a temperature of 65°C and pH 7.5 with pH maintained during hydrolysis, with a concentration by weight of 1.7% of protease of bacterial origin from the strain Bacillus Hcheniformis (Alcalase®) in liquid form relative to the weight of the cake. The enzyme is then inactivated by heating for 1 hour at a temperature of 90°C and pH 6.0. The mixture is cooled to room temperature, centrifuged and filtered (filtration threshold: 0.22 µm). A liquid product is obtained with a content of 4.14 ± 0.3% by weight of dry matter relative to the weight of the liquid product. Example 1b: Enzymatic hydrolysis - Hydrolyzed extract 2

[0132] A seed cake of SHybum marianum is ground and suspended in water (as the sole solvent) at a content of 12.5% ​​by weight of seed cake relative to the total weight of cake and solvent and is subjected to hydrolysis for a period of 1 hour at a temperature of 55°C and pH 8.5 with maintenance of the pH during the hydrolysis, with a concentration by weight of 1% of protease of bacterial origin from the strain Bacillus licheniformis (Alcalase®) in liquid form relative to the weight of the cake. The enzyme is then inactivated by heating for 1 hour at a temperature of 90°C and pH 4.5. The mixture is then cooled, centrifuged, and the supernatant filtered (filtration threshold: 0.22 pm). A liquid product is obtained having a content of 3.26% by weight of dry matter relative to the weight of the liquid product. Example: Hydrolyzed extract 1 as a cosmetic ingredient (with maltodextrin)

[0133] The extract obtained in Example 1a) is atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final quantity of maltodextrin of 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the final atomized extract. The extract is therefore obtained in powder form. Example Id: Hydrolyzed extract 2 as a cosmetic ingredient (with maltodextrin)

[0134] The extract obtained in Example 1b) is atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a final quantity of maltodextrin of 75% (w / w) by weight relative to the total weight of the final atomized extract. The extract is therefore obtained in powder form. Example 1: Enzymatic hydrolysis using hydrolyzed extract 1 according to Example 1

[0135] A seed cake of SHybum marianum is ground and suspended in the hydrolyzed extract (single solvent) obtained in example 1a) at a content of 15% by weight of cake relative to the total weight of cake and solvent, then the mixture obtained is subjected to hydrolysis for a period of 2 hours at a temperature of 65°C and at pH 7.5 with maintenance of the pH during the hydrolysis, with a concentration by weight of 1.7% of protein of bacterial origin originating from the strain Bacillus licheniformis (Alcalase®) in liquid form relative to the weight of cake. The enzyme is then inactivated by heating for 1 hour at a temperature of 90°C and at pH 6.0. The mixture is cooled to room temperature, centrifuged, filtered (filtration threshold: 0.22 μm). A liquid product is obtained having a content of 6.1% by weight of dry matter relative to the weight of the liquid product. according to the and a) Total protein dosage

[0136] The aim of this study is to quantify the total content of peptide equivalents of the hydrolyzed extract according to Example 1a according to the invention. [01371 Materials and methods: The peptide equivalent contents of the hydrolyzed extract are estimated by performing the total nitrogen assay (Kjeldahl method - AOAC, Association of Official Analytical Chemists Official Methods of Analysis, AOAC, Washington, DC, USA, 2000) and multiplying the value obtained by a factor of 6.25 (N x 6.25). The results obtained are shown in Table 1.

[0138] [Table 1] [01391 Results: The quantity of dry matter obtained after extraction and hydrolysis is between 3.84% and 4.44%. The total peptides represent between 60% and 66.2% approximately of the dry matter of the hydrolyzed extract according to example 1a (Table 1). FO 1401 Conclusion: The hydrolyzed extracts of Si / ybum marianum seed cakes according to the invention are rich in plant peptides (between 60% and 66.2% by weight of the total dry matter weight). b) Analysis of the average molecular weight profile of the hydrolyzed peptides Molecular profile of the hydrolyzed extract rO1411Qobjective: To characterize the weight-average molecular weights of the peptide compounds of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention, 2 hydrolyzed extracts according to example 1a were studied and then classified according to 3 categories: less than 100 Da, from 100 Da to 20 kDa (limits included) and greater than 20 kDa. [01421 Material and method: The distribution of the weight-average molecular weights of the peptides of the hydrolyzed extract in the form of a cosmetic ingredient according to example 1a is analyzed by gel permeation on a column of the Superose® 12 10 / 300 GL type (GE Healthcare Life Sciences). The weight-average molecular weights are determined after calibration of the column by protein molecules of known weight-average molecular weight. The results obtained are summarized in Table 2.

[0143] [Table 2] [01441 Results: The peptides of the hydrolyzed extracts of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to the invention are mainly peptide compounds having a weight-average molecular weight of between 100 Da and 20 kDa (Table 2). Molecular profile between 100 Da and 7000 Da

[0145] Objective: The objective of this study is to investigate the distribution profile of the weight-average molecular weights of the peptides contained in the hydrolyzed extracts of Si / ybum marianum seed cakes obtained according to Example 1, in the range between 100 Da and 7000 Da. The weight-average molecular weights were then classified into 3 categories: the two extreme categories grouping the smallest molecular weights 100 Da < PM < 700 Da, and the largest molecular weights 2500 Da < PM < 7000 Da.

[0146] Materials and methods: The distribution of the weight-average molecular weights of the peptides of the hydrolyzed extract of Silybum marianum seed cake obtained according to Example 1c was analyzed by gel permeation on a Superdex® peptide 10 / 30 HR GE column (GE Healthcare Life Sciences). The fractionation was carried out from 100 Da to 7000 Da and UV detection was carried out at 214 nm. The weight-average molecular weights were determined after calibration of the column by protein molecules of known weight-average molecular weights. The results obtained are summarized in Table 3.

[0147] [Table 3] marianum according to the invention mainly present (98.03%) protein compounds of low average molecular weight in weight, i.e. in the range 100 Da - 2500 Da (Table 3). Example 3: In tubo effects of the hydrolyzed extract according to Example 1b on the biomechanical properties of the cutaneous appendages - Anti-radical activity fDPP n

[0149] The aim of this study is to measure the anti-radical activity of the hydrolyzed extracts according to Example 1b by the DPPH method. [01501 Material and method:

[0151] Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH°) is an oxidant that occurs as a free radical that is missing an electron. In this form, the compound, which is dark purple in color, exhibits absorption in the wavelength range between 510 nm and 530 nm. In the presence of an electron-donating reducing compound, diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl will form a stable compound accompanied by a decrease in its absorption properties (discoloration of the compound) (Blois M. Antioxidant Determinations by the Use of a Stable Free Radical. Nature 181, 1199-1200 (1958)). This method is used to select plant extracts with anti-radical properties (Kim BJ, Kim JH, Kim HP, Heo MY. Biological screening of 100 plant extracts for cosmetic use (II): anti-oxidative activity and free radical scavenging activity. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1997 Dec;19(6):299-307).

[0152] The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1b is mixed at 5% (w / v) in distilled water. 100 μl of this solution was tested in the presence of a similar volume of a 90 μM diphenyl- l-picrylhydrazyl solution (DPPH°, Sigma - 3.55 mg of DPPH powder in 100 mL of ethanol). After 30 minutes of incubation at room temperature and away from light, absorbance was recorded at 530 nm using a spectrometer (Victor V, Perkin Elmer). The results are expressed as percentage inhibition of the DPPH° free radical compared to the negative control. FOI 531 Results: They are gathered in Table 4. The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to the invention preserved the oxidation of DPPH up to 95% (Table 4).

[0154] [Table 4] [01551Conclusion: The hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to the invention has a strong anti-radical activity and therefore an effect of maintaining and / or increasing biomechanical properties. Example 4: In tubo effects of the hydrolyzed extract of seed cake according to the invention on the biomechanical properties of the cutaneous appendages - Antioxidant / chelating activity of transition metals

[0156] Glycation reactions can occur chemically between reducing sugars and proteins. The presence of oxidizing agents and metals catalyzes this reaction and the formation of AGEs (Advanced Glycation End Products).

[0157] The chelating and antioxidant activity of the hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum oilcake according to the invention was evaluated in an in tubo model in the presence of albumin and iron and an oxidizing agent, hydrogen peroxide. The oxidation reaction is evaluated by measuring the degradation of the tryptophan, tyrosine bridging, as well as the formation of glycation products including pentosidine.

[0158] Materials and methods:

[0159] A reagent comprising 1.5% (w / v) albumin, 2 mM iron, 5 mM EDTA and 25 mM hydrogen peroxide H2O2 is placed in the presence or absence of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum cake according to example 1a at a content of 0.003% by weight or 0.01% by weight. The albumin oxidizes in the presence of H2O2. The oxidation reaction is catalyzed by iron. A control of the catalysis of the oxidation reaction is carried out in the absence of iron. The mixture is incubated at 37°C for 1 day.

[0160] The respective amounts of tryptophan, dityrosine, pentosidine and fluorescent glycation end products are measured by fluorescence with the Thermo Scientific Varioskan® Flash instrument (excitation / emission wavelengths: 280 nm / 340 nm for tryptophan; 315 nm / 410 nm for dityrosine; 335 nm / 385 nm for pentosidine; 370 nm / 440 nm for glycation end products).

[0161] The statistical significance threshold was set at 5% (p<0.05).

[0162] The protection index is calculated according to the following formula: (Control with Iron - Treatment with hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and with Iron) / (control with iron - control without iron) xlOO.

[0163] The test is carried out on the extract according to the example dried in order to obtain a dry extract content of 100%.

[0164] [Table 5]

[0165] The presence of iron catalyzes the oxidation reaction, observable by the increase in the level of undegraded tryptophans in the iron-free albumin control (Table 5). In the presence of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a at 0.003% and 0.01% (by weight), the degradation of tryptophan is significantly reduced with a recovery of 18% and 28% respectively of tryptophan residues (undegraded). The protection index of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake tested at 0.01% by weight is 38%.

[0166] [Table 6]

[0167] The presence of iron catalyzes the formation of dityrosine at the albumin level in the presence of H2O2 (Table 6). The hydrolyzed extract of seed cake of SHybum marianum according to example 1a at 0.003% by weight and 0.01% by weight reduces the formation of dityrosines by 16% and 28% respectively. The protection index of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake tested at 0.01% by weight is 67%.

[0168] [Table 7]

[0169] The presence of iron also catalyzes the formation of pentosidine in the presence of H2O2 (Table 7). The hydrolyzed extract of Siiybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a at 0.01% by weight decreases the formation of pentosidine by 27%. The protection index of the hydrolyzed extract of Siiybum marianum seed cake tested at 0.01% by weight is 61%.

[0170] [Table 8]

[0171] The presence of iron catalyzes the oxidation process of albumin in the presence of H2O2 and is accompanied by the formation of fluorescent glycation products (Table 8). The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum cake according to Example 1a at 0.003% by weight and 0.01% by weight decreases the formation of these glycation products by 9% and 14% respectively. The protection index of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum cake tested at 0.003% by weight and 0.01% by weight is 18% and 27% respectively.

[0172] Conclusion: Hydrolyzed extract of Siiybum marianum seed cake reduces iron-catalyzed protein oxidation and glycation end products formation and thus has a biomechanical properties maintenance effect. Example 5: In tubo effects of the hydrolyzed extract of seed cake according to the invention on the biomechanical properties of the cutaneous appendages - Antioxidant / chelating activity of transition metals

[0173] The aim of this study is to evaluate the antioxidant / metal chelating activity of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum cake according to the invention in an in tubo test, in the presence of lipoproteins and copper.

[0174] Materials and methods

[0175] Copper at 200 pM is brought into contact with low-density lipoproteins (LDL) at 100 pg / ml in a Phosphate Buffer Saline solution. The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a at 0.048% by weight is added or not to the solution. The reaction mixture is incubated at 37°C for 48 hours.

[0176] The level of lipid oxidation is assessed by quantification of malondialdehyde (MDA) after addition of thiobarbituric acid (TBA) at 2% by volume relative to the total volume of the reaction mixture. The level of Fluorescence is quantified by spectrophotometry using the Thermo Scientific Varioskan® Flash device, at the emission wavelength of 560 nm after excitation at the wavelength of 532 nm.

[0177] The Schiff base content is assessed by spectrometry (excitation wavelength 370 nm / emission 440 nm) using the Thermo Scientific Varioskan® Flash device.

[0178] The statistical significance threshold was set at 5% (p<0.05).

[0179] The protection index is calculated according to the following formula: (Treatment with hydrolyzed extract according to the invention and with LDL+Copper - LDL+Copper control) / (control without copper - LDL+copper control) xlOO.

[0180] Results: The results are collected in Table 9 below.

[0181] [Table 9]

[0182] The presence of copper potentiated the oxidation of lipids measured by malondialdehyde. The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a used at 0.048% by weight significantly decreased the formation of malondialdehyde by 78% (Table 9). The protection index of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a tested at 0.048% by weight is 97.5%. [01831Conclusion: The hydrolyzed extract of Siiybum marianum seed cake according to the invention reduced the oxidation of lipids catalyzed by copper and therefore made it possible to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties. Example 6: In vitro effects of the hydrolyzed extract of seed cake according to the invention on the biomechanical properties of the cutaneous appendages - Anti-qlvcation activity on the proteins of the hair fiber [01841 Objective: The aim of this study is to measure the anti-glycation effect of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a on hair fiber proteins incubated in a glucose solution.

[0185] Materials and methods:

[0186] Standardized and cleaned hair strands were incubated in a 1 mol.L-1 (M) glucose phosphate buffer solution containing or not the hydrolyzed extract according to the example, dried to have a dry extract of 100% in a content of 0.01% by weight, at pH 7.4 for 2 days at 50°C. The strands were then rinsed, wrung out, styled, separated and then cut into 1 cm long pieces. The proteins are extracted in a 1N sodium hydroxide NaOH solution for 24 hours at room temperature, with gentle stirring.

[0187] The amount of dityrosine and pentosidine (glycation products) is measured by fluorescence with the Thermo Scientific Varioskan® Flash device (excitation / emission wavelengths: 315 nm / 410 nm for dityrosine; 335 nm / 385 nm for pentosidine).

[0188] The protection index is calculated according to the following formula: (Glycated control - Glycated + Treatment with the extract according to the invention) / (non-glycated control - glycated control) xlOO.

[0189] The statistical significance threshold was set at 5% (p<0.05).

[0190] Results: These are presented in Tables 10 and 11 below.

[0191] [Table 10]

[0192] Incubation of the fibers in a glucose solution increased the dityrosine content in the hair proteins. The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a used at 0.01% by weight significantly decreased the formation of dityrosine by 16% (Table 10). The protection index of the hydrolyzed extract according to Example 1a used at 0.01% by weight against dityrosine production is 57%.

[0193] [Table 11]

[0194] Incubation of the fibers in a glucose solution increased the pentosidine content in the hair proteins. The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a used at 0.04% by weight significantly decreased the formation of pentosidine by 17% (Table 11). The protection index of the hydrolyzed extract according to Example 1a used at 0.04% by weight against the production of dityrosine is 59%.

[0195] Conclusion: The hydrolyzed extract of Siiybum marianum seed cake according to the invention reduced the formation of glycation products in the presence of glucose in the hair fiber and therefore helps maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of the hair fiber. [01961 Objective: The aim of this study was to measure the protective effect of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to the invention against oxidation and in particular carbonylation of keratins and keratin-associated proteins (KAPs: Keratin Associated Proteins). [01971 Material and method:

[0198] Hair strand preparation: Hair strands from Caucasian donors were used for measurements. The hair was treated with the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a at 0.05% (w / v) in distilled water, by contact for 10 minutes, followed by a washing and drying process. Urban particles (fine particles) were applied to the hair fibers (PM; ERM-CZ100 Fine Dust, Particulate Matter 10-like (PM10-like), Hydrocarbon Aromatics Polycyclics of 170 pg / cm 2 ), and the hair was immediately exposed to UVA irradiation (84 J / cm 2 , 6 hours of exposure, LED source, peak emission at 365 nm) (stressed hair). Hair treated with water or with 0.2% (w / v) N-acetyl cysteines (antioxidants - positive control) and exposed or not to UVA and particles were used as controls.

[0199] Hair shafts from each experimental condition were sampled, cryopreserved, frozen in liquid nitrogen, and kept at -80°C until analysis. a) Quantification of carbonylated proteins by Western blot [02001 Materials and methods

[0201] Carbonylated proteins were quantified in hair shafts by Western blot analysis for the different conditions.

[0202] Total proteins (keratins and keratin-associated proteins) were extracted from each hair shaft by a standard method for those skilled in the art. Quantification of total proteins was performed using the Bradford method. Carbonylated proteins were labeled using a specific fluorescent probe (Ex=647nm / Em=650 nm; Baraibar MA, Ladouce R, Friguet B. Proteomic quantification and identification of carbonylated proteins upon oxidative stress and during cellular aging. J Proteomics. 2013 Oct 30;92:63-70). Proteins were resolved by SDS-PAGE and their fluorescence signal was quantified by acquiring gel images with the Thermofisher “i Bright” software system. Total proteins were also stained in the gel for normalization using the “iBright” system (Thermofisher).A carbonyl score value (carbonylated proteins / total proteins), representing the quantification of carbonylated proteins, was obtained for each sample.

[0203] Carbonyl score (sample X) = Fluorescence value Oxidized proteins (sample X) / Fluorescence value Total proteins (sample X)

[0204] A protection index (%) was calculated according to the following formula:

[0205] Protection index % = (Carbonyl score level (stress) - Carbonyl score level (treated with extract according to the invention)) / (Carbonyl score level (stress) - carbonyl score level (control)) x 100

[0206] For reference, the control group is considered to have the maximum efficiency (100%) and the stress group has the minimum efficiency (0%).

[0207] The statistical significance threshold was set at 5% (p<0.05).

[0208] Results: The results are collected in Table 12 below.

[0209] [Table 12]

[0210] A significant increase in protein carbonylation was observed during exposure to UVA and pollution stress (UVA 84 J / cm 2 and urban particles of type PM 10) (Table 12).

[0211] The hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a at 0.05% (w / v) significantly decreased the level of carbonylated proteins by 25% (p<0.01) in the hair fiber. This corresponds to a protection index > 100%. b) Quantification of carbonylated proteins by image analysis

[0212] Materials and methods:

[0213] In situ densitometric analysis of the carbonylation signal was performed by analyzing images obtained using Thermofischer's "iBright" software and processed with Rasband's ImageJ software. The oxidation levels of each experimental group in the cuticle and cortex regions are indicated as the mean (UFR) ± standard deviation from the mean (Tables 13 and 14).

[0214] The statistical significance threshold was set at 5% (p<0.05).

[0215] [Table 13]

[0216] Results: UVA at 84 J / cm 2 and urban particles increased the amount of carbonylated proteins in the cortex and cuticle.

[0217] [Table 14]

[0218] The hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a at 0.05% (w / v) significantly decreased by 28% (p<0.01) and 31% (p<0.001) the carbonylated protein content in the cuticle and cortex respectively, thus maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties of the hair. This corresponds to a protection index of 49% for the cuticle and 59% for the cortex. c) Protection of the structural integrity of the hair [02191 Objective: The structural state of keratin proteins in hair shafts obtained according to the protocol described above is evaluated by optical measurement using an XPolar® microscope (KAMAX). The birefringence properties of a hair fiber depend on the structural integrity of the keratins.

[0220] Hair is composed of fibrous keratin proteins. The crystalline structure of keratin fibers gives hair the ability to change the polarization of light passing through it, a property called birefringence. Birefringence properties depend on hair thickness and the crystalline state of the keratin. A decrease in the birefringence parameter (Kindex) indicates structurally damaged keratins. A Kindex value, which is associated with the birefringence properties of the hair fiber, can be determined and compared between damaged and undamaged hair, treated and untreated hair conditions.

[0221] Materials and methods:

[0222] Hair segments obtained according to the protocol described above, 1 cm in length (n = 30 per condition) were transferred onto compatible slides for birefringence analysis using XPolar technology. This is an imaging device integrated into a microscope, allowing the observation and measurement of the polarimetric properties of the samples studied. Reflected intensity images were first taken to measure hair thickness. Then, the samples were illuminated with polarized light to measure Kmax. Assuming that the hair has a cylindrical geometry, it is possible to estimate the birefringence value (Kindex) from the Kmax value and hair diameters using an Abacus.

[0223] A hair structure improvement value was obtained using the damaged group and the untreated groups as references, according to the formula: (stressed hair treated with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention - stressed hair) / (healthy hair - stressed hair) *100.

[0224] [Table 15]

[0225] Results: Oxidative stress caused a structural change in the hair fiber. A decrease in Kindex values ​​was observed in damaged hair compared to undamaged control hair (Table 15). This corresponds to a degradation of the keratin structure by oxidation of keratins under exposure to UVA and urban particles.

[0226] Hair fibers treated with the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a at 0.05% (w / v) in distilled water, showed a significant increase in the average birefringence value compared to damaged hair fibers (Table 15). The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a increased the birefringence index by 14% (p<0.05). This corresponds to an improvement in the hair structure of 59% compared to damaged hair (improvement index) and therefore corresponds to an improvement and / or maintenance of the biomechanical properties of the hair fiber. d) Integrative hair protection score

[0227] The Hair Protection Score (HPS) is the integrative index for classifying the effectiveness of hair care products. The score values ​​are distributed between: SPC 15; SPC 30; SPC 50 and SPC 50+. The SPC value is obtained using a specific algorithm integrating early molecular events for the evaluation of hair fiber protection against daily life injuries. Molecular damage, assessed by protein carbonylation evaluation, and structural damage, assessed by capillary birefringence evaluation according to Example 7 were integrated to obtain the SPC of the product, supporting the effective protection of the hair fiber against pollution-induced damage (particles and UVA irradiation). An internal reference was used as a control (N-acetylcysteine: SPC = 50).

[0228] The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a showed a hair protection score of 50+. This score is higher than that of N-acetylcysteine. [02291 Statistics: All data were analyzed using GraphPad Prism 9 (Insightful Science USA) or SigmaPlot (Systat Software Inv. USA) software. Statistical analyses were obtained using Student's t-test or ANOVA binary comparisons between groups and damaged conditions. The statistical significance level was set at 5% (p<0.05). [02301Conclusion: The hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to the invention protects keratins and keratin-associated proteins from carbonylation induced by exposure of hair fibers to UV rays and pollutants, allowing the maintenance of their structural integrity and the maintenance of their biomechanical properties. according to the invention in the fiber on fibers [02311 Objective: Vibrational spectroscopic techniques such as Raman infrared spectroscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) are increasingly used in cosmetic science to study the chemical composition of hair and changes in keratin structure under different environments and treatments. These techniques are non-destructive and do not require no labeling of samples. FT-IR is particularly advantageous for the analysis of pigmented hair because it is less subject to intense absorption of melanin under visible excitation. The aim of this study is to evaluate the distribution of the constituents of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention in the hair fiber and to study its effect on the infrared profile of keratin. [02321 Materials and methods:

[0233] Hair Preparation and Treatment: The test was performed on 3 persulfate-bleached (ultra-bleached) Caucasian human hair strands. The hair strands were standardized (2 g / 2 g / 15 cm), cleaned, rinsed, and dried at room temperature before testing. Healthy Caucasian hair strands (natural dark brown hair) were used as a natural, undamaged hair control. The hair strands were completely covered with the hydrolyzed extract according to Example 1a mixed at 5% w / v in distilled water or with water as a placebo. Excess product was removed from the strands by wiping each strand between a gloved thumb and index finger. The hair was cut into 10 µm sections for infrared imaging.

[0234] Infrared spectroscopy: The product was characterized for its vibrational spectral profile by infrared spectroscopy coupled with a microscope. Images were collected between 800-4000 cm1 , with a pixel size of 6.25x6.25 pm 2 Analytical pretreatments were performed to clean the spectra. The product spectrum was monitored in the hair fiber using a fitting method.

[0235] Results: The hydrolyzed extract according to example Ia presents specific spectral bands at 993, 1053, 1110, 1403 and 1597 cm-1 which are distinct from the spectrum of keratin. These spectral markers were used to identify the hydrolyzed extract in the hair fiber. We observe that the hydrolyzed extract is mainly concentrated at the hair cuticle and diffuses within the fiber cortex. according to the invention on the cutaneous appendages - Molecular and fiber restructuring

[0236] Objective: The objective is to study more precisely the vibrational spectra of damaged or undamaged keratins, and treated or not with the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a. These analyses made it possible to demonstrate the interaction of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention with the damaged keratins of the hair cortex and in particular its general stabilizing effect and in particular the cysteic acid type groups and its derivatives. [02371 Material and method

[0238] Strands of Caucasian brown hair were bleached oxidized by grading (12 cm / 1 g), cleaned, and dried for the study. The strands were bleached with a 5% v / v hydrogen peroxide solution for 20 minutes, then rinsed and dried.

[0239] The comparative analysis of the vibrational spectra of keratins from undamaged hair and hair oxidized by bleaching treated with or without the extract according to Example 1a mixed at 5% w / v in distilled water, was carried out by "fitting" analysis: a method using the Matlab environment to program the comparison of given infrared spectra of the control respectively with the infrared spectra of the product. The changes in the keratin signal were treated using hierarchical cluster analysis to determine the degree of proximity of the spectra to each other. The area under the curve was determined for the absorption bands at 1174 cm 1 , 1116 cm 1 .

[0240] The statistical significance threshold was set at 5% (p<0.05) when comparing values ​​with each other. [02411 Results:

[0242] Oxidative damage caused by chemical bleaching of hair has shown impacts on the chemical and structural composition of hair with observable changes in vibrational spectra profiles.

[0243] Hierarchical cluster analysis showed that damaged hair treated with the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a and virgin hair exhibit spectral profiles that are closer than similar to those of damaged hair. These results suggest that the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to the invention interacts with the damaged keratins of the fiber cortex and helps stabilize them.

[0244] Spectral bands referring to the integrity of cysteine ​​bonds were then studied in more detail. These were modified under conditions damaged by chemical oxidation compared to healthy, undamaged hair.

[0245] In particular, the spectral bands at 840, 1116, 1150 and 1174 cm 1 (referring to NH out-of-plane bending, SO2 and CO stretching, and SO3 asymmetric stretching, respectively) were increased in intensity in bleach-oxidized hair compared to healthy hair.

[0246] It has been demonstrated that the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention was capable of reducing these band intensities towards those of virgin hair.

[0247] Finally, it was demonstrated that the hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to the invention was capable of reducing these band intensities to approach the spectra of healthy hair (Table 16).

[0248] In particular, oxidative damage acted on the SO, SO2, NH and CO bonds (significant increase in the intensity of these bands). The creation of these groups was carried out from the oxidation of the groups and the scission of the cysteine ​​disulfide bridges. The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to the invention showed a significant decrease in the intensity of these SO, SO2, NH and CO bonds.

[0249] The protection index is calculated according to the following formula: (Glycated control - Glycated + Treatment with the extract according to the invention) / (non-glycated control - glycated control) xlOO.

[0250] [Table 16] r0251~IConclusion: The hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to the invention is capable of interacting with the molecular entities of the keratins and proteins associated with the keratins of hair fibers damaged by chemical oxidation and of stabilizing them. The hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to the invention allows a structural restoration efficiency and therefore an efficiency of repair and / or maintenance and / or increase of the biomechanical properties, in particular of the strength, plasticity, resistance and / or flexibility of between 14% and 98% depending on the chemical groups for the bands of between 840 and 1174 cm -1 . Example 10: Ex vivo effects of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention on the repair of hair fiber

[0252] The aim of this study is to measure the restorative effect of the hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to the invention on hair fibers damaged by hydrogen peroxide by calorimetry (DSC = Differential Scanning Calorimetry)

[0253] Materials and methods:

[0254] Dark brown hair strands of Caucasian type were calibrated (lg; 12 cm) and prepared for the study. The hair strands were washed and then bleached 3 times using a hydrogen peroxide solution (5.6% H2O2 by volume + 13.9% (Nh ^Os by volume, pH=9.4) for 30 minutes. The healthy (unbleached) hair strands were kept as a control. After washing and drying for 45 minutes at 55°C under air flow, the hair strands were immersed for 24 hours in distilled water (as a control) or in an aqueous solution containing 1% (w / v) of hydrolyzed extract of SHybum marianum seed cake according to example 1b. Both solutions were previously buffered to pH 5.5. The strands were rinsed and then dried for 1 hour at approximately 60°C under air flow.

[0255] The denaturation temperature of human proteins was determined by differential scanning calorimetry according to the method described by FJ. Wortmann, H. Deutz, Characterizing keratins using high-pressure differential scanning calorimetry (HPDSC), Vol.48-Issue 1, p.137-150, 5 April 1993 with a heating rate of 2 K / min and a differential enthalpy analyzer (DSC Q100, TA Instruments).

[0256] The repair index versus placebo is calculated as follows: (bleached hair treated with hydrolyzed extract according to the invention - Control + water (placebo)) / (healthy hair control - Control + water (placebo)) xlOO.

[0257] The repair index versus placebo is calculated as follows: (bleached hair treated with hydrolyzed extract according to the invention - Control bleached hair) / (control bleached hair - Control + water (placebo)) xlOO.

[0258] [Table 17]

[0259] Results :

[0260] Hair bleached with hydrogen peroxide is more unstable compared to healthy unbleached hair (Table 17). The temperature difference of denaturation of hair fiber proteins was -9.6°C between damaged hair and healthy hair.

[0261] Treatment of damaged hair with Si / ybum marianum seed cake extract according to Example lb at 1% (w / v) improved the stability of hair proteins against heat denaturation by +5.4°C compared to damaged hair treated with water. Hydrolyzed Si / ybum marianum seed cake extract according to Example lb showed a repairing effect on hair fiber damaged by chemical oxidative stress compared to healthy hair by 64%.

[0262] Conclusion: Treatment with the hydrolyzed extract of Siiybum marianum seed cake according to the invention of peroxidized hair improved the stability of the hair fiber proteins against heat. The hydrolyzed extract of Siiybum marianum seed cake according to the invention showed a repairing effect on the hair fiber damaged by hydrogen peroxide (oxidative stress) and therefore an effectiveness in repairing and / or maintaining and / or increasing the biomechanical properties, in particular the strength, plasticity, resistance and / or flexibility of the hair fiber.

[0263] The effectiveness of cortex repair by the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to the invention at 1% (w / v) is 65% compared to the damaged control treated with water (placebo) and 69% compared to the untreated damaged control. 11: Ex vivo effects of the extract according to the invention on fiber strengthening fiber fatioue test / test of

[0264] Objective: The effect of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to Example 1a, on strengthening weakened hair fiber was evaluated by fatigue tests on isolated hair fiber. Fatigue experiments evaluate the tendency of hair to break under repeated application of force (Evans TA., Fatigue testing of hair-a statistical approach to hair breakage. J Cosmet Sci. 2009 Nov-Dec;60(6):599-616). The properties Hair tension mechanics reflect the internal state of its structure. This approach can be considered a more realistic simulation of consumer practices where grooming represents such a stimulus. This method also makes it possible to evaluate the restorative effect of a cosmetic ingredient, particularly on the cuticle.

[0265] Materials and methods:

[0266] Strands of dark brown Caucasian hair bleached 3 times with hydrogen peroxide were sized (lg / 12 cm) and cleaned for the study. The strands were treated or not with 1% (w / v) of Si / ybum marianum seed cake extract according to Example 1a mixed with distilled water, for 1 hour at pH 5.0-5.5, then rinsed and dried. Between 50 and 60 fibers were studied under standardized conditions 40% + / -5% relative humidity at 21°C + / -2°C for each treated or untreated condition.

[0267] In this test, individual hair fibers were subjected to repeated deformation. The instrument counts the number of repetitive cycles of a predefined stimulus required to induce breakage. A maximum number of cycles was defined. Under these test conditions, the fiber may or may not break during the experiment. A probability of survival at a given time was calculated using the Kaplan Meier survival curve principle to estimate survival (or keratin fiber that does not break).

[0268] Statistical analyses for group comparison were performed using a non-parametric model. Differences were considered significant at a p-value <0.05.

[0269] A hair strengthening index was calculated using the following equation: (number of this cycle before breakage of treated bleached hair - number of this cycle before breakage of untreated bleached hair) / (number of this cycle before breakage of healthy hair - number of this cycle before breakage of untreated bleached hair) x 100

[0270] [Table 18] [02711 Results:

[0272] Chemical oxidation by hair bleaching significantly reduced the number of cycles inducing fiber breakage (Table 18). This suggests that bleached hair fiber is more fragile and more prone to breakage.

[0273] Treatment of 3-times bleached hair with hydrolyzed Si / ybum marianum seed cake extract according to Example 1a at 1% (w / v) significantly improved the number of cycles before breakage, indicating strengthening and / or repair of hair damaged by chemical hair oxidation. [02741Conclusion: The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to the invention has properties of strengthening and therefore repairing the hair fiber making it possible to reduce its probability of breaking and therefore to maintain and / or increase the strength and / or plasticity and / or resistance and / or flexibility of the hair fiber, in particular to repair the cutaneous appendages, preferentially the hair. Example 12: Ex vivo effects of the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention on the biomechanical properties of the hair fiber - Color preservation (colorimetry)

[0275] Objective: The antioxidant and color-protective effect of the hydrolyzed extract of Siiybum marianum seed cake according to the invention was evaluated in a hair color fading test after sun exposure.

[0276] Materials and methods:

[0277] Strands of Caucasian hair bleached twice with hydrogen peroxide and colored with a red pigment were used. The hair strands were calibrated (lg / 15 cm), cleaned and dried for the study. The strands were treated or not with 1% (w / v) of the Si / ybum marianum seed cake extract according to example 1a mixed with distilled water, for 1 hour and then dried overnight at room temperature. The strands were exposed to sunlight (Suntest CPS+) at wavelengths between 300-800 nm with a lamp power of 592 W / m 2 for 19 hours. The total exposure energy was 41469 kJ / m 2per cycle. After exposure, the strands were washed for 3 minutes and dried overnight in a conditioned room at 40% relative humidity and a temperature of 21°C, followed by colorimetric measurements according to the L*a*b* method. The parameters measured were delta E* (overall color change) and delta a* associated with red / green shades (change in red color). The color of the strands was measured after 1 cycle, 2 cycles or 3 cycles of treatment and sun exposure. Eight strands were used per condition.

[0278] Statistical analyses of the data were performed by comparing groups using the Student's t-test. Differences were considered significant at a p-value <0.05.

[0279] A percentage of hair color preservation effectiveness against discoloration by sunlight was obtained using the stressed colored group and the untreated groups as references, according to the formula: 100 - [(colored hair treated with the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention / control colored hair)* 100]

[0280] [Table 19] r0281~l Results:

[0282] Colored hair exposed to solar irradiation showed increasing variations in overall color and red color over exposure cycles (Tables 19 and 20). Sun exposure bleached the hair.

[0283] Treatment of colored hair with hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a significantly slowed down these color changes (Delta a* and Delta E*) depending on the exposure cycles.

[0284] The hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to the invention showed a protective effect on hair color against bleaching by sunlight and therefore helps maintain and / or increase the color and / or shine of the hair fiber. vo of an extract according to the invention on the hair - anti-breakage

[0285] Objective: The effectiveness of a hair treatment in terms of anti-breakage and anti-split ends prevention was tested on a device allowing repeated combing of hair strands. The influence of chemical hair treatments such as bleaching on hair breakage can be examined. Then, the protective effects of market reference products and the hydrolyzed extract according to the invention were studied.

[0286] Materials and methods:

[0287] Strands of Caucasian brown hair were sized (12 cm / 1 g), cleaned and dried for the study. The strands were bleached with a 5% v / v hydrogen peroxide solution for 20 minutes, then rinsed and dried. The strands were treated with the shampoo having the composition below containing the hydrolyzed extract as a cosmetic ingredient according to Example 1c (which represents 0.25 g of shampoo / g of hair) and then were treated with the conditioner having the composition below containing the hydrolyzed extract as a cosmetic ingredient according to Example 1c (which represents 0.125 g of conditioner / g of hair). The products were rinsed and the strands rested for 5 hours, at 40% relative humidity before analysis. The strands were styled 50,000 times under the following conditions: 40% relative humidity at 30°C. Broken fibers less than 9 cm long were collected and weighed.

[0288] The hair breakage value is calculated using the formula: broken hair (g) / strands (g) x 100

[0289] Outliers were detected by Grubbs test with a significance level of 0.05 and removed from the data records.

[0290] Anti-breakage shampoo formula:

[0291] [Table 20]

[0292] Anti-breakage conditioner formula:

[0293] [Table 21]

[0294] [Table 22] [02951 Results: The percentage of breakage of untreated weakened hair was estimated at 20.1% compared to 4.5% for weakened hair treated with shampoo and conditioner containing the hydrolyzed extract of Silybum marianum seed cake according to example 1c (Table 22). The protection against breakage of the finished products containing the hydrolyzed extract of Silybum marianum seed cake according to example 1c was 78%. r0296~l Conclusion: Good conditioning properties and protection of hair against breakage were found with the shampoo and conditioner containing the hydrolyzed extract of Silybum marianum seed cake according to the invention. Example 14: In vitro effects of a hydrolyzed extract according to the invention on the biomechanical properties - protection and stimulation of metabolism on the papilla of the hair follicle

[0297] Papilla fibroblasts play an important role in orchestrating regulatory signals involved in hair follicle cellular metabolism (Reynolds AJ., Jahoda CA, Cultured dermal papilla cells induce follicle formation and hair growth by transdifferentiation of an adult epidermis. Development 115: 587-593; (1992); Matsuzaki T, Yoshizato K., Role of hair papilla cells on induction and regeneration processes of hair follicles. Wound Repair Regen. Nov-Dec;6(6): 524-30. (1998))). With age, or in response to environmental stresses, the physiology and metabolism of papilla fibroblasts may be affected, and consequently impact the quality of the resulting keratin fiber. [02981 Objective: The objective of this study was to evaluate the anti-aging and metabolism-stimulating effect of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a on hair follicle papilla fibroblast aggregate culture models by measuring ATP. This 3-dimensional cellular model allows the characteristics of the papilla to be preserved in vivo, in particular that of being able to induce the formation and growth of quality hair (Yang CC and Cotsarelis G, Review of hair follicle dermal cells. J Dermatol Sci. 57(1): 2 (2010)).

[0299] Materials and method:

[0300] A suspension composed of human hair follicle papilla fibroblasts (40x103 cells) in DMEM with 0.2% v / v of growth factors (Mesenchymal Stem Cell Growth Supplement) and the presence or absence of the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum according to example 1a at a content of 0.01% w / v in distilled water, was placed in a 96-well microplate and centrifuged for 5 minutes at 200 g to form aggregates. The aggregates are incubated at 37°C in a controlled atmosphere (5% CO2 and 95% relative humidity).

[0301] For the analysis of the parameters of interest, the aggregates are rinsed in buffered saline (PBS) and the cells are separated by incubation in a mixture comprising 100mg of collagenase A, and a mixture of 20mL of Trypsin (2.5% v / v) and EDTA (0.02% v / v) with a ratio of 1:1.

[0302] The suspended cells were used to measure ATP by bioluminescence according to the suppliers' instructions (Bioluminescence Assay Kit CLS II Roche 11699695001, Sigma Aldrich). F03031 Results: Treatment of the aggregates with the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to example 1a at 0.01% weight / volume increased the total amount of ATP produced (+32% compared to the control; table 23).

[0304] [Table 23] r03051Conclusion: Treatment of papilla fibroblast aggregates with the hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake according to the invention increases ATP within the pseudopapilla. These results suggest a vitalizing potential of the hair follicle for structural and functional reinforcement of the keratin fiber. Example 15: Consumer test with shampoo and conditioner respectively comprising the hydrolyzed extract in the form of a cosmetic ingredient according to the example [03061 Objective: The aim of the study is to evaluate consumers' perception of the benefits provided by the hydrolyzed extract in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, incorporated into a shampoo and conditioner on damaged hair. [03071 Materials and method:

[0308] The study was randomized and double-blind with a total of 31 volunteers. The shampoo and conditioner used were identical to those used in Example 13 (Tables 20 and 21).

[0309] The same volunteers applied either the shampoo and conditioner containing the hydrolyzed extract as a cosmetic ingredient or the placebo products at least 3 times per week for a period of 4 weeks, sequentially, with a 3-week washout period between the two treatment phases.

[0310] Volunteers completed a consumer benefit self-perception questionnaire measuring their opinions about the products after 4 weeks of use. The number of positive or negative questions was grouped and analyzed with a non-parametric binomial test (Chambers E. and Wolf M. "Sensory Testing Methods: Second Edition." Micro & Nano Letters (1996)). The significance level was set at 5% (p<0.05).

[0311] Results :

[0312] A significant majority of volunteers perceived beneficial effects on their hair by regularly using a shampoo and conditioner containing the hydrolyzed extract as a cosmetic ingredient. Among these favorable opinions, the use of this hygiene and care routine was perceived as providing protection against chemical stress, breakage, and split ends. The hair appeared less damaged and healthier-looking. The hair appeared to show more vitality, volume, shine, and less dryness. The scalp appeared more comfortable.

[0313] In contrast, the placebo shampoo and conditioner, not containing the hydrolyzed extract as a cosmetic ingredient, did not show a significant majority of favorable opinions regarding the perception of a benefit in protecting hair against chemical stress, against split ends, increasing vitality, volume and reducing hair dryness.

[0314] [Table 24]

[0315] * Significant majority of favorable opinion (p<0.05) according to the binomial test. [03161Conclusion: Additional benefits of the presence of the hydrolyzed extract as a cosmetic ingredient on the hair were perceived by volunteers who used a shampoo and conditioner regularly for 4 weeks. Example 16: Cosmetic ingredients [03171 Cosmetic ingredient 1 (% by weight 1 ) : Hydrolyzed extract according to example 1a) 20% Maltodextrin 80%

[0318] Cosmetic ingredient 2 (% by weight): Hydrolyzed extract according to example lb) 30% Maltodextrin 70% Example 17: Cosmetic compositions comprising the cosmetic ingredient

[0319] Anti-breakage shampoo formula

[0320] [Table 25]

[0321] Anti-breakage conditioner formula

[0322] [Table 26]

Claims

Claims

1. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of skin appendages, advantageously keratin fibers, preferably hair.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract is obtained in water as the sole solvent.

3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract is obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis.

4. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract is obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis at a pH between 3 and 10, advantageously between 7 and 9.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract has a total protein dry mass content of between 50% and 95% by weight, preferably between 60% and 90% by weight, more preferably between 60 and 70% by weight, relative to the total dry mass weight of the hydrolyzed extract.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract has a dry mass content of peptides with a weight-average molecular weight of 100kDa to 20kDa of between 50% and 90%, advantageously between 65% and 90%, more advantageously between 75% and 90%, by weight relative to the total dry mass weight of the peptides of the hydrolyzed extract.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract has a dry mass content of peptides with a weight-average molecular weight of between 100 Da and 700 Da of between 60% and 90%, advantageously between 70% and 80%, more advantageously between 75% and 80%, by weight relative to the total weight. in dry mass of peptides with a weight-average molecular weight between 1000Da and 7000Da of the hydrolyzed extract.

8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract maintains and / or increases the resistance and / or strength and / or volume and / or color and / or shine and / or plasticity, that is to say the non-brittle appearance, and / or the flexibility of the skin appendages, preferably of the keratin fibers, advantageously of the hair.

9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract is intended for topical application to all or part of the skin of the body and / or face comprising cutaneous appendages, in particular the scalp, and / or to all or part of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously to the nails, hair, body hair, in particular beard hair, eyelashes and / or eyebrows, more advantageously to all or part of the keratin fibers, preferentially to all or part of the hair.

10. Use according to claim 9 in which the application is made to damaged, colored or highlighted, dull, dry, brittle, fragile, friable, fine, split and / or stressed hair.

11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract is atomized in the presence of a concentration by weight of maltodextrin of between 1% and 99%, advantageously between 5% and 90%, preferably between 40% and 80%, still preferably between 70% and 80%, relative to the total weight of the powder obtained.

12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract is present in a cosmetic composition, at a content of between 1x10 -4 % and 10% by weight, preferably of lxlO' 3 % to 5% by weight, more preferably 1x10 -3 % to 3% by weight, even more preferably lxl0' 3 % to 1% by weight, advantageously from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

13. Use according to claim 12, characterized in that the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and in that this composition is chosen from a serum, a lotion, a cream, a shampoo, a conditioner, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a paste, a mousse, an emulsion, a hydrogel, a shower gel, a mask, a lacquer, a spray, a wax, a mascara, a makeup pencil, a varnish, advantageously a shampoo, a conditioner or a lotion.

14. Use according to claim 1, for repairing skin appendages, preferably hair.

15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic care method comprising the topical application of a hydrolyzed extract of Si / ybum marianum seed cake or a cosmetic composition comprising it to maintain and / or increase the biomechanical properties of skin appendages, advantageously keratin fibers, preferably hair.

16. Cosmetic care method according to claim 14, for repairing skin appendages, advantageously keratin fibers, preferably hair.

17. Cosmetic care method according to claim 15 or 16, characterized in that the hydrolyzed extract or the cosmetic composition comprising it is applied topically to all or part of the skin of the body and / or face comprising cutaneous appendages, in particular the scalp, and / or to all or part of the cutaneous appendages, preferably to all or part of the keratin fibers, more preferably to all or part of the hair.

18. Cosmetic care method according to any one of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the extract is as defined in any one of claims 2 to 8 and 11 to 14.

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