NEW HAIR COLOURING FORMULA

Abstract

NEW COMPOSITION FOR HAIR COLORING The present invention relates to a new composition for hair coloring comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a mineral powder, a vegetable oil, and a colorant or pigment, as well as a hair coloring process using said composition. Fig. 3

Description

Title of the invention: NEW COMPOSITION FOR HAIR COLORING

[0001] The present invention relates to a new composition for hair coloring comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a mineral powder, a vegetable oil and a colorant or pigment, as well as a hair coloring process implementing said composition.

[0002] In the field of hair, dyeing is a hairdressing technique that allows hair to be colored permanently or temporarily.

[0003] Consumers wishing to dye their hair seek to obtain a colour that is as natural as possible, hair with intense and shiny shades, but also a result that is long-lasting over time, particularly resistant to subsequent shampoos.

[0004] To permanently change hair color, chemical treatments called oxidative hair dyes are generally used. These treatments modify the pigment in the hair cortex by denaturing its melanin. Such treatments result in a colored appearance that lasts for several months.

[0005] A first hair coloring treatment is based on the principle of the oxidative combination of two precursor components called a base and a coupler. The oxidation phase is carried out in the presence of hydrogen peroxide in a basic medium (pH between 9.5 and 10.5) using ammonia solutions with a high fiber swelling capacity. This technology is particularly robust and compatible with all hair types, but requires strict adherence to the application conditions recommended by the suppliers, particularly regarding precautions for use and processing time. Furthermore, these solutions are recognized as sensitizing and having a high allergenic potential.

[0006] Furthermore, the base used consists of an aromatic diamine such as para-phenylenediamine (PPD), 1,4-p-aminobenzene, p-phenylenediamine, or p-aminoaniline. These components are known for their toxicity and are prohibited in many cosmetics.

[0007] The coupler itself consists of a diphenol such as resorcinol, resorcinol, 1,3-benzenediol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene or m-dihydrobenzene. These components are also classified as toxic and hazardous.

[0008] A second treatment relies on the use of powders of dye plants or henna. Although this is referred to as 'plant coloring' and these treatments are While considered more natural, henna powders are not without consequences. Indeed, they naturally contain traces of mercury and arsenic. Furthermore, the use of henna generally requires the use of couplers such as sodium picramates and / or aromatic diamines (PPD) to achieve a visible, more or less opaque, and long-lasting result. This treatment therefore also presents a risk of toxicity through skin contact.

[0009] Moreover, the handling of these treatments proves to be tedious, several applications spaced out with pause times ranging from 60 to 180 minutes being necessary to obtain an acceptable and lasting final result.

[0010] Finally, these treatments are incompatible with any other chemical or organic treatment since they leave an impenetrable coating around the hair fiber, preventing the passage of any other product. Furthermore, the use of other treatments such as straightening, perms, or lightening can cause hair damage due to the interaction of traces of mercury with the ammonia present in these products.

[0011] New complementary treatments have been developed to offer hair coloring without chemical damage. These treatments are based on the use of cationic dyes, also called direct or basic dyes. These dyes have a high affinity for keratin but do not have the ability to adhere permanently to the hair. In fact, the cationic dye is deposited only on the periphery of the hair fiber so as not to damage it. This treatment is not very robust and fades quickly after a few shampoos.

[0012] Thus, at the date of the present invention, it remains necessary to develop a composition enabling hair coloring in an effective and lasting manner, which can be applied easily, and which does not deteriorate the quality of the hair.

[0013] Now, a composition has been found that allows for effective and long-lasting hair coloring, according to an easy-to-implement application process, said composition preserving the quality of the hair.

[0014] The present invention therefore relates to a hair coloring composition comprising: - an amino acid; - a protein; - an alcoholic beverage; - a mineral powder; - a vegetable oil; and - a dye or pigment.

[0015] The composition according to the present invention allows for effective and long-lasting hair coloring, using an easier application method (without an oxidizing mixture). to be carried out and without prolonged waiting time, the color setting being instantaneous) and preserving the quality of the hair, in particular due to the absence of oxidation phase in basic medium, aromatic diamine, diphenol and ammonia. In addition, it allows the use of all types of dyes, including cationic dyes, direct dyes and plant-based dyes.

[0016] Within the scope of the present invention: - "Hair coloring" refers to any treatment that transforms the natural color of hair in order to revive its nuances or completely transform it; - The term "amino acid" means any amino acid known to a person skilled in the art, in particular amino acids with the following general formula (I) or (II):

[0017] [Chem. 1 [Chem2]

[0018] in which

[0019] • R represents a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C5-alkyl group optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino; -C(O)-OH; -S(O)2-OH; -C(O)-O, M+; -S(O)2-O, M+; • M+ representing a cationic counter ion such as alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium; n is equal to 0 or 1;

[0020] as well as their betaine forms; their optical isomers; their solvates such as hydrates, and their salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral;

[0021] said amino acids may optionally be grafted onto a heteromolecule which may be a silicone, a glucide compound, a fatty acid or derivative, a surfactant of anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric character; - "Vegetable oil" means any fatty substance extracted from an oilseed plant, that is to say a plant whose seeds, nuts or fruits contain lipids; - The term "protein" means any protein, heteroprotein or protein derivative such as a protein grafted onto a heteromolecule which may be silicone, a glucide compound, a fatty acid or derivative, a surfactant of anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric character, of variable size and shape, formed of one or more chain(s) loaded with amino acids and linked by peptide bonds. preferably, the protein has a tertiary or quaternary structure; - "Cx-Cy-alkyl" means a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, and comprising x to y carbon atoms; - The term "alcohol" means any linear or branched carbon chain containing 1 to 10 carbon atoms substituted by a hydroxyl group, an amino alcohol, an aldol, or a ketol. Preferably, "alcohol" means any linear or branched compound of the form CnH2n+iOH in which n is an integer between 1 and 10; - The term "polyol" means any Ci-Cio-alkyl group substituted by at least two hydroxyl groups. Preferably, "polyol" means any compound selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol or sorbitol; - "Mineral powder" means any powder prepared from a homogeneous natural solid in the form of a salt, comprising one or more elements chosen from magnesium (Mg2+), calcium (Ca26), sodium (Na+) and potassium alum (KAI(SO4)12H2O); - The term "dye" means any soluble substance consisting of a chromophore group and an auxochrome group.Examples of dyes include azo dyes (or naphthols) such as benzimidazolone yellows or oranges; anthraquinone dyes such as alizarin, purpurin, or indanthrene blue; indigeo dyes such as indigo or indigo carmine; chlorine dyes such as chlorphylline; polymethine dyes such as anthocyanin rose or purple; acid (or anionic) dyes such as patent blue V or fluorescein yellow; basic (or cationic) dyes such as malachite green, berberine yellow, or fuchsin; and direct (or substantive) dyes such as curcumin or cochineal. oxidation dyes requiring bases and couplers, such as paraphenylenediamine for the bases and 4-chloro-1-3-dinitrobenzene for the couplers; or plant dyes such as madder or indigofera tinctorial; and . - The term "pigment" refers to any coloring substance of mineral or organic origin, natural or synthetic, that is insoluble in the medium it colors. Examples of pigments include mineral pigments such as yellow ochre, red ochre, or lapis lazuli; or organic pigments such as murex or sepia.

[0022] Furthermore, within the framework of the present invention, and unless otherwise stated, the proportions expressed in % correspond to mass percentages relative to the total weight of the entity considered.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention therefore contains an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a mineral powder, a vegetable oil, and a colorant or pigment. Preferably, the present invention relates to a composition as described above having the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination : - the amino acid is a proteinogenic amino acid or one of its salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral. Preferably, the amino acid is chosen from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, camitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta-alanine, taurine, lysine, and arginine, or one of their salts, of acid or base, organic or mineral. Most preferably, the amino acid is chosen from glutamic acid, cysteine, and arginine; - the composition contains from 0.1% to 20% of amino acid as defined above, preferably from 0.1% to 5% of amino acid as defined above, preferably again from 0.1% to 3% of amino acid as defined above; - the protein is chosen from among creatine (possibly hydrolyzed), keratin (possibly hydrolyzed), wheat protein (possibly hydrolyzed), silk protein (possibly hydrolyzed), vegetable keratin (possibly hydrolyzed), soy protein (possibly hydrolyzed), collagen (possibly hydrolyzed), elastin (possibly hydrolyzed), pea protein (possibly hydrolyzed), rice protein (possibly hydrolyzed), conchiolin protein (possibly hydrolyzed), and whey protein (possibly hydrolyzed). Preferably, the protein is chosen from among creatine, keratin, wheat protein (possibly hydrolyzed), silk protein (possibly hydrolyzed), and soy protein (possibly hydrolyzed). - the composition contains from 0.1% to 20% of protein as defined above, preferably from 0.1% to 10% of protein as defined above, most preferably from 0.1% to 5% of protein as defined above; - the alcohol is chosen from butanol, isopropanol, ethanol and benzyl alcohol. Preferably, the alcohol is chosen to be ethanol or benzyl alcohol; - the composition contains from 0.5% to 20% of alcohol as defined above, preferably from 0.5% to 10% of alcohol as defined above, most preferably from 0.5% to 4% of alcohol as defined above; - The vegetable oil contains at least 1% chamazulene or carboxylic acids. Preferably, the vegetable oil is chosen from among sweet almond oil, olive oil, argan oil, German chamomile oil, Roman chamomile oil, Haarlem oil, babassu oil, broccoli oil, avocado oil, linseed oil, apricot oil, cucumber oil, black cumin oil, Brazil nut oil, grapeseed oil, shea olein, sesame oil, and tomato oil. Most preferably, the vegetable oil is chosen to be German chamomile oil or Roman chamomile oil; - the composition contains 1% to 15% of vegetable oil as defined above, preferably 1% to 10% of vegetable oil as defined above, most preferably 1% to 8% of vegetable oil as defined above;

[0024] - the mineral powder contains at least 1% potassium or aluminium disulfate and potassium. Preferably, the mineral powder is chosen from kaolin powder, tartaric acid powder, alum powder, calcium carbonate powder, potassium carbonate powder, tara powder, titanium oxalate, magnesium powder. Most preferably, the mineral powder is chosen to be alum powder or tartaric acid powder; - the composition contains from 0.1 to 20% of mineral powder as defined above, preferably from 0.1 to 10% of mineral powder as defined above, most preferably from 0.1 to 5% of mineral powder as defined above; - The colorants are chosen from among oxidation colorants, cationic colorants, and plant-based colorants. Preferably, the colorants are chosen from among cationic colorants and plant-based colorants. Most preferably, the colorants are chosen to be cationic colorants; - the pigments are chosen to be mineral pigments; - the composition contains from 0.1 to 10% of colorant or pigment as defined above, preferably from 0.1 to 8% of colorant or pigment as defined above, most preferably from 0.1 to 5% of colorant or pigment as defined above; and / or - the composition also contains a polyol.

[0025] The composition according to the invention is in the form of a single, ready-to-use composition. This may be in the form of a cream, gel, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, hair lotion, or shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a cream.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention, whether in the form of a cream, emulsion, lotion, or shampoo, can be applied according to any method known to those skilled in the art. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is applied according to the method comprising the following steps: - application of the composition according to the invention directly onto dry hair, - leave to act for a period of time which can vary from 5 minutes to 30 minutes; and - rinsing of the hair with water.

[0027] The method according to the present invention can further be supplemented by: - applying shampoo after rinsing the hair; and / or - applying a conditioner or leave-in treatment.

[0028] The process according to the present invention can be easily implemented and allows for effective and long-lasting hair coloring without the use of ammonia, hydrogen peroxide, base or coupler, all in an acidic pH environment of 5.5, thus preserving the quality of the hair.

[0029] In addition, the composition according to the present invention can also be used to color eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0030] [fig. 1] Figure 1 is a photograph of the hair before treatment with the composition according to the invention

[0031] [fig-2] Figure 2 is a photograph of the hair after treatment with the com position according to the invention

[0032] [fig.3] Figure 3 shows a microscopic analysis of the structure of a hair after treatment with the composition according to the invention

[0033] [fig.4] Figure 4 is a photograph of the hair before treatment with the com position according to the invention

[0034] [fig.5] Figure 5 is a photograph of the hair during treatment with the composition according to the invention

[0035] [fig.6] Figure 6 is a photograph of the hair after treatment with the com position according to the invention

[0036] The present invention is illustrated in a non-limiting way by the following examples. Example 1 - Composition according to the invention

[0037] A ready-to-use colouring cream comprising an amino acid, a protein, an alcohol, a mineral powder and a colouring whose composition is reported in the following Table 1 is prepared.

[0038] [Tables 1] Ingredients Quantity (% w / w) Glutamic acid (amino acid) 0.50 Arginine (amino acid) 0.50 Cysteine ​​(amino acid) 0.10 Hydrolyzed keratin (protein) 1 Hydrolyzed elastin (protein) 0.80 Hydrolyzed collagen (protein) 0.40 Cetearyl alcohol (alcohol) 4.5 Benzyl alcohol (alcohol) 1.67 Potassium alum (mineral powder) 2 Matricaria chamomile oil (vegetable oil) 2 Babas su oil (vegetable oil) 1 Wheat germ oil (vegetable oil) 2 Red basic 51 (cationic dye) 2.59 Titanium dioxide (mineral pigment) 0.50 Mica powder (mineral pigment) 0.06 Shea butter 4 Cetrimonium chloride 6.85 Decyl Glucoside 1 Propylene glycol 1 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 1 Behentrimonium methosulfate 0.50 Amodimethicone 0.50 Xanthan gum 0.40 Trideceth-12 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.25 Chlorophenesin 0.25 Dehydroacetic acid 0.25 Polyquaterium-80 0.20 Glycerin 0.10 Polyquatemium-7 0.08 Water 63.75

[0039] Table 1 - Coloring cream Example 2 - Color Test

[0040] 2.1- Coloring process

[0041] The cream described in the preceding example 1 is used to color hair that is dehydrated and sensitized by repeated highlights and oxidation colorings, which can no longer retain the dyes due to its porosity (Figure 1).

[0042] The application of the composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.

[0043] Step 1: Apply the coloring cream directly to dry hair

[0044] The ready-to-use composition according to the invention is applied directly to dry hair, as a treatment on the entire head of hair from root to tip.

[0045] The composition is then left to act for 15 to 30 minutes.

[0046] Step 2: Rinsing

[0047] Rinse the entire head of hair and apply a conventional shampoo free of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (i.e. Sodium Laureth Sulfate).

[0048] The shampoo is then rinsed out and a classic detangling conditioner is applied.

[0049] Step 3: Styling

[0050] The hair is then styled in a conventional manner.

[0051] 2.2 - Results obtained

[0052] The hair is colored with a deep and extremely glossy shade. During styling, the hair is noticeably soft and silky because it shows no signs of sensitization. This results in colored hair simply without the need for any oxidation (Figure 2).

[0053] Microscopic analysis of a hair after treatment reveals an intact cuticle, without any trace of corrosion in the fatty cells of the cortex. The fiber is completely healthy and intensely colored (Figure 3).

[0054] In addition, the observed effects are long-lasting: approximately two months, a duration comparable to that of oxidation coloring.

[0055] Example 3 - Instant color transfer test

[0056] 3.1 - Instant color transfer method

[0057] The cream described in Example 1 above is used to perform the instant transfer of color onto hair in order to create highlights. A photograph taken before treatment shows the hair in its natural state (Figure 4).

[0058] The application of the composition according to the invention is carried out according to the following protocol.

[0059] Step 1: Apply the coloring cream directly to dry hair

[0060] The ready-to-use composition according to the invention is applied directly to the selected dry strand of hair.

[0061] Then, a low-temperature iron at 55 degrees is passed over the strand soaked in colouring cream (Figure 5). The strand of hair is coloured instantly.

[0062] Step 2: Rinsing

[0063] Rinse the entire head of hair and apply a conventional shampoo free of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (i.e. Sodium Laureth Sulfate).

[0064] The shampoo is then rinsed out and a classic detangling conditioner is applied.

[0065] Step 3: Styling

[0066] The hair is then styled in a conventional manner.

[0067] 2.2 - Results obtained

[0068] The hair has been highlighted. It is also noted that during styling, the hair is very soft and silky because it shows no trace of sensitization. Highlighted hair is thus obtained in record time, without the use of any oxidation and without any processing time (Figure 6).

[0069] In addition, the observed effects are long-lasting: approximately two months, a duration comparable to that of an oxidation coloring.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition for hair coloring comprising: - a proteinogenic amino acid selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, camitine, cysteine, glutamine, histidine, leucine, isoleucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, glycine, alanine, serine, beta-alanine, taurine, lysine and arginine or one of their salts, of an acid or base, organic or mineral; - a protein; - an alcohol; - a mineral powder; - a vegetable oil; and - a colorant or pigment.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the protein is selected from creatine possibly hydrolyzed, keratin possibly hydrolyzed, wheat protein possibly hydrolyzed, silk protein possibly hydrolyzed, vegetable keratin possibly hydrolyzed, soy protein possibly hydrolyzed, collagen possibly hydrolyzed, elastin possibly hydrolyzed, pea protein possibly hydrolyzed, rice protein possibly hydrolyzed, conchiolin protein possibly hydrolyzed and whey protein possibly hydrolyzed.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the protein is selected from creatine, keratin, wheat protein optionally hydrolyzed, silk protein optionally hydrolyzed and soy protein optionally hydrolyzed.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the alcohol is selected from butanol, isopropanol, ethanol and benzyl alcohol.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the vegetable oil is selected from sweet almond oil, olive oil, argan oil, German chamomile oil, Roman chamomile oil, Haarlem oil, babassu oil, broccoli oil, avocado oil, linseed oil, apricot oil, cucumber oil, black cumin oil, Brazil nut oil, oil grape seed oil, shea olein, sesame oil and tomato oil.

6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the vegetable oil is chosen to be chamomile matricaria oil or chamomile romana oil.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the mineral powder is selected from kaolin powder, tartaric acid powder, alum powder, calcium carbonate powder, potassium carbonate powder, tara powder, titanium oxalate, magnesium powder.

8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the mineral powder is chosen to be alum powder or tartaric acid powder.

9. Hair coloring process comprising the following steps: - application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8; - leaving on for a period of time which may vary from 5 minutes to 30 minutes; and - rinsing the hair with water.

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