composition for cleansing and conditioning hair

Abstract

Composition for Hair Cleaning and Conditioning. The present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and conditioning hair comprising: a) at least one anionic surfactant; b) at least one amphoteric surfactant; c) at least one cationic surfactant having a C16-C22 carbon chain; and d) at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol. The present invention also relates to a hair cleaning and conditioning process comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the hair, and then rinsing the hair with water after an optional exposure period. Figure for the abstract: NONE

Description

Title of the invention: Composition for cleansing and conditioning hair technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for cleaning and conditioning hair. The present invention also relates to a process for cleaning and conditioning hair, context of art

[0002] Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and / or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perms and / or straightening.

[0003] Cleaning compositions typically contain anionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate have detergent properties and are very effective at removing dirt and oil.

[0004] For example, US20210267867A1 discloses a hair cleansing composition comprising: (a) about 8 to about 20% by weight of a sulfate-based anionic surfactant; (b) about 1 to about 4% by weight of an amphoteric surfactant; (c) about 4 to about 10% by weight of a plurality of nonionic surfactants, the plurality of nonionic surfactants comprising: (i) about 1 to about 1.5% by weight of a fatty alcohol, (ii) about 1.5 to about 3% by weight of a glucamide, and (iii) about 1.5 to about 5.5% by weight of an alkanolamide that is not the glucamide, (d) about 0.5% by weight or more of a non-silicone oil; and (e) water, in which all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the hair cleansing composition.

[0005] Document WO2017083943A1 discloses a multi-component cosmetic hair agent for cleansing and conditioning hair, the cosmetic hair agent comprising: a) a first cosmetic composition comprising: i) a mixture of surfactants comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant; ii) at least one amino silicone; iii) at least one cationic polymer; and iv) water; and b) a second cosmetic composition comprising: i) at least one fatty alcohol; ii) at least one cationic surfactant; iii) at least one oily component; and iv) water.

[0006] Anionic surfactants lift the hair cuticle for deep cleansing, but the lifted and rough cuticles also lead to frizz. In addition, consumers generally find that the products products containing anionic surfactants can be too drying and damaging with frequent use, and therefore they choose gentle cleansing compositions that have low levels of anionic surfactants.

[0007] However, gentle cleansing compositions have drawbacks. Due to their low detergent power, excess oils and styling products may not be effectively removed from the hair. This can leave hair feeling flat and greasy, and even with repeated use, these products may not leave hair feeling clean.

[0008] Consumers are therefore always looking for optimized cleansing compositions that offer adequate hair cleansing properties and, at the same time, good hair conditioning.

[0009] It has been observed that when a cationic surfactant is added to a shampoo comprising an anionic surfactant, flocculation can be generated, which makes the whole system unstable.

[0010] Therefore, there is still a need to develop compositions for cleansing and conditioning hair that are stable. Summary of the invention

[0011] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop compositions for the cleansing and conditioning of hair, which are stable.

[0012] Another object of the present invention is to propose a process for cleaning and conditioning hair.

[0013] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition for cleaning and conditioning hair comprising:

[0014] a) at least one anionic surfactant;

[0015] b) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

[0016] c) at least one cationic surfactant having a Ci6-C22 carbon chain; and

[0017] d) at least one fatty alcohol in Ci2-C22-

[0018] According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a hair cleaning and conditioning process comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair, then rinsing the hair with water after an optional exposure period.

[0019] The inventors have found that the composition according to the present invention can ensure a good cleaning and conditioning effect.

[0020] The composition according to the present invention remains stable at high temperatures (for example 45 °C), at room temperature (25 °C), and at low temperatures (for example 4 °C) for at least two months.

[0021] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention appear will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0022] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ...".

[0023] As used herein, the term "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, supplementary and unspecified features.

[0024] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the features specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0025] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by persons competent in the field to which the present invention relates. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by persons competent in the field to which the present invention relates, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0026] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Consequently, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified as needed to achieve the desired performance.

[0027] As used herein, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0028] As used herein, the term “conditioning” means imparting to the hair at least one property selected from compatibility, manageability, moisture retention, luster, shine, softness, and suppleness. The state of conditioning is assessed by comparing hair treated with the composition to be tested with hair treated with a commercial product.

[0029] As used here, the term "stable" means that the composition does not phase out.

[0030] According to the first aspect of the present invention, a composition for cleaning and conditioning hair:

[0031] a) at least one anionic surfactant;

[0032] b) at least one amphoteric surfactant;

[0033] c) at least one cationic surfactant having a Ci6-C22 carbon chain; and

[0034] d) at least one fatty alcohol in Ci2-C22. Anionic surfactants

[0035] According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

[0036] By "anionic surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0037] In the present description, a species is referred to as "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and having no cationic charge.

[0038] Anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) type surfactants. It goes without saying that a mixture of these surfactants can be used.

[0039] It is understood in this description that:

[0040] - anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one function because boxyl or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ) and may optionally also include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0041] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3) and may optionally also include one or more sulfate groups, but do not include carboxylate groups; and

[0042] - anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.

[0043] Usable carboxylic anionic surfactants therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ).

[0044] They can be selected from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, al-kylamido ether carboxylic acids; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0045] the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0046] these compounds being possibly polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0047] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, can also be used. C6-C24, as well as their salts.

[0048] Among the carboxylic surfactants mentioned above, special mention may be made of polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular ethylene oxide, such as the compounds marketed by the Kao company under the name Akypo,

[0049] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1): R^OC2HJr~OCH2COOA (i)

[0050] in which:

[0051] - Ri represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a alkyl(C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,

[0052] preferably, Ri is an alkyl radical in C8-C20 and preferably in C8-C18, and aryl preferably designates phenyl,

[0053] - n is an integer or decimal (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and from preference from 2 to 10,

[0054] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a residue of monoethanolamine or of triethanolamine.

[0055] It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds containing different Rb groups

[0056] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

[0057] - Ri designates a C12-C14 alkyl radical, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or oc- tylphenyl,

[0058] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0059] - n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.

[0060] More preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which Ri designates a C12 alkyl radical, A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.

[0061] Preferably, carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from among:

[0062] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoyl- glutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0063] - acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitic- toylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0064] - acyllactylates, particularly in C12-C28, or even in C14-C24, such as behe- noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0065] - acylglycinates in C6-C24 and in particular in C12-C20;

[0066] - C6-C24 alkyl ether carboxylates and in particular alkyl ether carboxylates in C12-C20;

[0067] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl (C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in par particularly those which contain from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0068] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0069] Usable anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).

[0070] They can be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamide-sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfo-succinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0071] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0072] these compounds being optionally polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0073] Preferably, anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected, alone or in mixtures, from among:

[0074] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially lau- rylsulfosuccinates;

[0075] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates in C6-C24 and in particular in C12-C20;

[0076] - C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates,

[0077] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0078] Usable sulfated anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).

[0079] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether-sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

[0080] the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0081] these compounds being possibly polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and preferably comprising 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0082] Preferably, anionic sulfate-type surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from among:

[0083] - alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20,

[0084] - alkyl ether sulfates, particularly in C6-C24, or even C12-C20, comprising preference for 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;

[0085] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0086] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.

[0087] Among the amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned, one may include the salts of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, the salts of monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol and the salts of tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane.

[0088] Salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0089] Preferably, anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or in mixtures, from among:

[0090] - Alkyl sulfates in C6-C24 and in particular in C12-C20;

[0091] - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; comprising preference for 2 to 20 ethylene oxide patterns;

[0092] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;

[0093] - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates in C6-C24 and in particular in C12-C20;

[0094] -C6-C24 acylisethionates and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates;

[0095] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, and in particular C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmi- toylsarcosinates;

[0096] - C6-C24 alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl ether carboxylates in C12-C20;

[0097] - C6-C24 polyoxyalkylened alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and especially ethylene oxide;

[0098] - acylglutamates in C6-C24 and in particular in C12-C20;

[0099] - acylglycinates in C6-C24 and in particular in C12-C20;

[0100] in particular in the form of alkali metal salts such as sodium or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol.

[0101] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is chosen from sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and a mixture of these.

[0102] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 8% by weight to 16% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 12% by weight to 14% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants

[0103] According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0104] Amphoteric surfactants that can be used in the present invention can be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives comprising at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0105] Examples include betaine, (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylbetaines, such as co-camidopropylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, the products with respective structures (Al) and (A2) below may also be mentioned:

[0107] (Al) Ra-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)m-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO)

[0108] in which:

[0109] Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from a Ra-COOH acid preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

[0110] Rb represents a [3-hydroxyethyl,

[0111] Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0112] m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

[0113] Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group;

[0114] (A2) Ra-CON(Z)CH2-(CH2)mN(B)(B')

[0115] in which:

[0116] B represents -CH2CH2OX', with X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', CH2CH 2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom,

[0117] B' represents -(CH2)Z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y' representing COOH, COOZ', CH2 - CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z',

[0118] m' is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

[0119] Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group,

[0120] Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

[0121] Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or a C17 unsaturated group.

[0122] Compounds conforming to formula (A2) are preferred.

[0123] Among the compounds corresponding to the formula (A2) in which X' represents a hydrogen atom, we can cite the compounds classified in the CTFA dictionary, under the names sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

[0124] Other compounds corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium ca-pryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodi-propionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0125] Examples include cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate, sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32 and the product sold by Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.

[0126] Compounds of formula (A3) can also be used:

[0127] (A3) Ra”-NH-CH(Y”)-(CH2)nC(O)-NH-(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re)

[0128] in which:

[0129] - Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed or coconut oil;

[0130] - Y” represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z”, with Z” representing a cationic counter-ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

[0131] - Rd and Re designate, independently of each other, an alkyl or hy- radical C1-C4 droxyalkyl; and

[0132] - n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer from 1 to 3.

[0133] Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A3), we can notably mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name diethylaminopropyl cocoas-partamide sodium, such as that marketed by the company Chimex under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0134] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(Cl-C6)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamphoacetates and (C8-C20)alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof, and especially selected from co-cobetaine and cocoamidopropylbetaine.

[0135] Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, preferably from 1% by weight to 2% by weight, more preferably from 1.2% by weight to 1.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0136] C16-C22 carbon chain cationic surfactants

[0137] According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises at least one cationic surfactant having a C16-C22 carbon chain.

[0138] They are advantageously chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts optionally polyoxyalkylated, quaternary ammonium salts, fatty amidoamines, and mixtures thereof.

[0139] Examples include:

[0140] - quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):

[0141] in which:

[0142] the groups R8 to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Ru comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; knowing that the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens;

[0143] X is an anion that can be selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4) alkyl lary 1s sulfonates.

[0144] The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from the alkyl groups in CrC30, alkoxy in Ci-C30, polyoxyalkylene in C2-C6, alkylamide in Ci-C30, alkyl(C12-C22)alkyl(C2-C6)amido, alkyl acetate in C12-C22 and hydroxyalkyl in Ci-C30.

[0145] Examples include tetraalkylammonium halides, preferably chlorides, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides. in which at least one or two of the alkyl groups comprise 16 to 22 carbon atoms, including behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, diketyldimethylammonium, distearyldimonium, dicocodimonium and cetyltrimethylammonium chlorides.

[0146] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethyl oleyl dimonium chloride. Other examples include halides, preferably chlorides, of palmitylamidopropyl-trimethylammonium or halides, preferably chlorides, of stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyle acetate)-ammonium such as the product sold under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0147] - quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline corresponding to the formula (lia):

[0148] in which:

[0149] R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 atoms of carbon;

[0150] Rn represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0151] RM represents a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0152] Rb represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group;

[0153] X is an anion, preferably selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates;

[0154] at least one of the R[2 and Rn] designates an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms,

[0155] Preferably, R[4 denotes a methyl group, and Ri5 denotes a hydrogen atom.

[0156] As an example, we can cite Quatemium-87.

[0157] A product of this nature is sold for example under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

[0158] - quaternary di- or triammonium salts corresponding to the formula (Ilia):

[0159] in which:

[0160] Rie designates an alkyl group containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

[0161] Rn denotes a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a) group; where R16a, R17a, R18a, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms

[0162] Ri8, R19, R20 and R2B, which may be identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

[0163] X is an anion preferably selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

[0164] Such compounds are, for example, FINQUAT CT-P (Quaternium 89) and FINQUAT CT (Quaternium 75) sold by the company FINETEX.

[0165] - quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions corresponding to the following formula (IVa): —Ç—X~ 0 W)

[0166] in which:

[0167] R22 is selected from the alkyl groups in C1-C6 and the hydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C6 or C1-C6 dihydroxyalkyl;

[0168] R23 is selected from the R26-C(=O)- group; the hydrocarbon R27 groups in C1-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and a hydrogen atom;

[0169] R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the R29 hydrocarbon groups in C1-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and a hydrogen atom;

[0170] R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

[0171] at least one of R24 and R23 contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0172] r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;

[0173] rl and tl, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1;

[0174] r2 + rl = 2 r and tl + t2 = 2 t;

[0175] y is an integer from 1 to 10;

[0176] x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;

[0177] the sum x + y + z is between 1 and 15,

[0178] X is an anion;

[0179] provided that

[0180] at least one of R23, R24 and R25 contains 16 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0181] when x equals 0, then R23 denotes R27, and when z equals 0, then R25 denotes R29.

[0182] The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0183] When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon group, it may consist of 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may consist of 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0184] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably comprises 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0185] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from linear or branched Cl1-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0186] Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0187] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0188] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is between 1 and 10.

[0189] Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0190] The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide or Iodide, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfate, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfonate or (Cl-C4)alkylaryl sulfonate, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion containing an ester function. Anion X is more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate, or ethyl sulfate.

[0191] In the composition according to the invention, ammonium salts of formula (IVa) are used in particular, in which:

[0192] - R22 designates a methyl or ethyl group,

[0193] - x and y are equal to 1,

[0194] - z is equal to 0 or 1,

[0195] - r, s and t are equal to 2,

[0196] - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the methyl groups, the ethyl groups or the C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups; and a hydrogen atom,

[0197] - R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; and a hydrogen atom,

[0198] - R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the C16-C22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably among C16-C22 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0199] Hydrocarbon groups are advantageously linear.

[0200] Among the compounds of formula (IVa), particular examples include salts, especially diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium chloride or methylsulfate, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably contain 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples include distearoylethyl dimonium chloride and bis-(isostearoyl / oleoyl isopropyl dimonium) methosulfate.

[0201] These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine, optionally oxyalkylated, with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA or REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

[0202] The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester, and triester salts, with diester salts being the majority by weight. Ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, as described in US patents 4,874,554 and 4,137,180, may also be used. Behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, sold by KAO under the name QUARTAMIN BTC 131, may also be used.

[0203] Preferably, ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

[0204] Preferably, the cationic surfactants are chosen from compounds of formula (la) and compounds of formula (IVa), preferably from the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from the chloride or methosulfate of behenyltrimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the cationic surfactant is a salt of behenyltrimethylammonium.

[0205] Advantageously, the cationic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.4% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. C12-C22 Fatty Alcohols

[0206] According to the first aspect of the present invention, the composition comprises a combination of surfactants comprising at least one C12-C22 fatty alcohol.

[0207] Examples of C12-C22 fatty alcohols include isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol.

[0208] The fatty alcohol may be chosen from those having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0209] These fatty alcohols can be straight-chain or branched-chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated.

[0210] Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and a mixture of these.

[0211] In some cases, the fatty alcohol is chosen from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and a mixture of these.

[0212] Advantageously, the C12-C22 fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0213] The composition according to the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0214] Preferably, the aqueous phase is a continuous phase.

[0215] The aqueous phase of the present invention comprises water.

[0216] The aqueous phase may also include water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25°C), for example polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; ethers of glycol (containing in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and their mixtures.

[0217] According to the invention, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 70% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 75% by weight to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0218] The composition according to the present invention may also include any other additional ingredient commonly used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.

[0219] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional ingredients so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0220] For example, these additional ingredients include pH correcting agents, thickeners, preservatives, sequestrants and chelators, consistency regulators, antioxidants, perfumes, dyes such as soluble dyes and pigments, optical brighteners, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the above, and mixtures thereof.

[0221] Non-limiting examples of pH-correcting agents include potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid, aspartic acid, boric acid, lactic acid, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ethanolamines and mixtures thereof.

[0222] The pH correcting agent is used in such an amount that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6, preferably from 3.5 to 5.8, more preferably from 4 to 5.6.

[0223] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for cleansing and conditioning hair comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0224] a) from 12% by weight to 14% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant;

[0225] b) from 1.2% by weight to 1.8% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant;

[0226] c) from 0.4% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one selected cationic surfactant among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la):

[0227] in which:

[0228] the groups R8 to Rn, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to Ru comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; knowing that it is possible that the aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens;

[0229] X is an anion that may be selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates; and

[0230] d) from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one C16-C18 fatty alcohol. Preparation and use

[0231] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to d), as essential ingredients, together with one or more additional ingredients, as explained above.

[0232] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0233] The composition according to the present invention may have a gel-like texture.

[0234] According to the second aspect of the present invention, a hair cleaning and conditioning process includes applying the composition as described above to the hair, then rinsing with water after an optional exposure period.

[0235] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be construed as limiting its scope. EXAMPLES

[0236] The main raw materials used, their trade names and supplier are listed in Table 1.

[0237] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Sodium laureth sulfate TEXAPON® N 701 BASF Cocamidopropyl betaine DEHYTON® PK 45 BASF Cetrimonium chloride DEHYQUART® A OR BASF Isostearyl alcohol PRISORINE 3515-LQ-(GD) CRODA Sodium benzoate PROBENZ™ SG SODIUM BENZOATE FOOD GRADE KOSHER EASTMAN CHEMICAL Salt and bind acid SALICYLIC ACID USP ALTA LABORATORIES

[0238] Inventive examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-2

[0239] Shampoos according to inventive examples (El.) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC.) 1-2 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (contents are expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of each shampoo, unless otherwise stated):

[0240] [Tables2] Ingredients El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 Sodium laureth sulfate 13.8 13.8 13.8 13.8 13.8 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 0.7 0.6 0.5 Isostearyl alcohol 1.2 0.75 1.5 1.2 Sodium benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0241] The shampoos of inventive examples (El.) 1-3 are compositions according to the present invention.

[0242] The shampoo in comparative example (EC.) 1 does not contain C12-C22 fatty alcohol.

[0243] The shampoo in comparative example (EC.) 2 does not contain a ca- surfactant tionic. Preparation procedure:

[0244] Each shampoo was prepared as follows, taking the shampoo from inventive example 1 to illustrate.

[0245] 1) add sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine and benzoate sodium in water with stirring to form a shampoo base at room temperature;

[0246] 2) mix cetrimonium chloride and isostearyl alcohol by shaking to form a phase p;

[0247] 3) introduce phase p into the shampoo base, then add sa- acid Licylic acid was used to correct the pH, and then the shampoo was obtained. Assessment :

[0248] The stability of each shampoo obtained was evaluated by observing whether there was flocculation as follows.

[0249] A shampoo was stored at 4°C, at room temperature (25°C), or at 45°C for 2 months and observed visually to check for flocculation. The shampoo will be considered stable if no flocculation is observed at 4°C, at room temperature (25°C), and at 45°C for 2 months; otherwise, it will be considered unstable.

[0250] The conditioning effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:

[0251] I) Hair treatment with the test shampoo:

[0252] A strand of damaged hair was selected. The hair was combed and wetted under running water. The test shampoo was applied evenly to the damaged hair from root to tail. The shampoo was gently massaged into the hair with two fingers from root to tail (without tangling) to create a lather. The shampoo was rinsed under running tap water until all the lather was removed.

[0253] II) Evaluation of detangling ability and softness in the wet state:

[0254] The hair was combed from the root using a wide-tooth comb, then The detangling ability of the shampoo was judged using a fine-toothed comb according to the ease of combing.

[0255] The hair was stroked with two fingers from the root, and the performance of the shampoo in terms of hair care was judged according to the softness of the hair surface.

[0256] III) Evaluation of softness and suppleness in the dry state:

[0257] The hair was either naturally air-dried or blown in an oven at 60°C until they are completely dry.

[0258] The hair was stroked with two fingers from the root, and the performance of the shampoo in terms of hair care was judged according to the softness of the hair surface.

[0259] The hair was curled from the tail using two fingers, and the shampoo's hair care performance and hair softness were judged on the hair surface according to the ease of curling the sample and the force generated during the curling process.

[0260] A silicone-free shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo - WATER PUMP by L'Oréal) was used as a reference in parallel with the shampoo under test in the evaluation of the conditioning effect above.

[0261] The cleansing effect of each shampoo was evaluated as follows:

[0262] 6 volunteers were recruited, half of each volunteer's hair was one half of each volunteer's hair was washed with the test shampoo, and the other half was washed with a reference product.

[0263] A silicone-free shampoo (Loreal Hyaluronic Acid Shampoo-WATER PUMP by L'Oréal) was used as a reference in the above cleansing effect assessment.

[0264] The scores relating to the cleansing effect of each shampoo in the test were given by volunteers 24 hours after application and averaged.

[0265] The scores relating to the conditioning effect and the cleansing effect of each shampoo in the test were given by volunteers and averaged, the scores relating to the cleansing effect having been given 24 hours after application.

[0266] The rating scale is [-2, 2] and the rating standard for the conditioning effect and the cleansing effect of each shampoo tested is as follows.

[0267] -2: the shampoo being tested is significantly inferior to the reference;

[0268] -1: the shampoo being tested is slightly inferior to the reference;

[0269] 0: the shampoo being tested is similar to the reference;

[0270] 1: the shampoo being tested is slightly superior to the reference; and

[0271] 2: the shampoo being tested is clearly superior to the reference.

[0272] The results concerning stability, conditioning effect and cleaning effect have been summarized in Table 3.

[0273] [Tables3] ELI Properties EI.2 EI.3 EC.1 EC.2 Wet Detangling +1 +0.5 +1 -0.25 -0.4 Wet Softness +1 +0.75 +0.5 -0.25 -0.25 Dry Softness +0.5 +0 +0.25 +0.1 -0.4 Dry Suppleness +0.5 +0 +0.5 +0.25 -0.25 Stability Stable Stable Stable NA NA Long-lasting Cleanliness +1 +1 +1 NA NA

[0274] NA: not tested.

[0275] It can be seen that the composition according to the present invention is stable at high temperatures (e.g. 45 °C), at room temperature (25 °C) and at low temperatures (e.g. 4 °C) for at least two months and can ensure long-lasting cleaning and a good conditioning effect when applied.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition for cleansing and conditioning hair comprising: a) 12% by weight to 14% by weight of at least one anionic surfactant; b) from 1.2% by weight to 1.8% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant; c) from 0.4% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant chosen from quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to formula (la): in which: the groups R8 to RI 1, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or al-kylaryl, at least one of the groups R8 to RI 1 comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; knowing that the aliphatic groups may include heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or halogens; X- is an anion which may be selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Cl-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Cl-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Cl-C4)alkylarylsulfonates; and d) from 0.5% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol selected from dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and a mixture thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from - C6-C24 alkyl sulfates and especially C12-C20 alkyl sulfates; - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates and especially C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising 2 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; -alkylsulfosuccinates in C6-C24 and especially in C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; - alkyl ether sulfosuccinates in C6-C24 and especially in C12-C20; - C6-C24 acylisethionates, and preferably C12-C18 acylisethionates; - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, and in particular C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates; - C6-C24 alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably C12-C20 alkyl ether carboxylates; - polyoxyalkylened alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids (C6-C24) and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, and in particular ethylene oxide; - C6-C24 acylglutamates, and in particular C12-C20 acylglutamates; - C6-C24 acylglycinates, and in particular C12-C20 acylglycinates; particularly in the form of alkali metal salts such as sodium or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from betaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)sulfobetaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C6-Cl alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C6-Cl alkyl)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cationic surfactant is selected from cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or methosulfate and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium chloride or methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

5. Hair cleansing and conditioning process comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1-4 to the hair, then rinsing the hair with water after an optional exposure period.