Silicone-free inverse emulsion comprising a C3 or C4 alkanediol, glycerin, a non-volatile vegetable oil, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant and a volatile alkane

Abstract

A silicone-free inverse emulsion comprising a C3 or C4 alkanediol, a non-volatile vegetable oil, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, and a volatile alkane. This application relates to a silicone-free composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a continuous oily phase containing: i) at least one non-volatile vegetable oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane; and b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase containing: c) at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant; and d) at least one C3 or C4 alkanediol; and e) at least some glycerin. The invention also relates to a method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for makeup and / or skincare, characterized in that it comprises applying to the keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

Description

Title of the invention: Silicone-free inverse emulsion comprising a C3 or C4 alkanediol, glycerin, a non-volatile vegetable oil, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, and a volatile alkane. Technical field

[0001] The present invention aims to propose for the field of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, a new composition in the form of an inverse emulsion which is particularly interesting with regard to its technical performance and the sensory sensations which it provides to the user when it is applied to them and in particular to the skin.

[0002] Cosmetic compositions, for example foundations, are commonly used to provide an aesthetic color to the skin, but also to beautify uneven skin by making it possible to hide spots and dyschromia, to reduce the visibility of surface imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and to mask pimples and acne marks; in this respect, coverage is one of the main properties sought.

[0003] In the cosmetics field, water-in-oil emulsions, also known as inverse emulsions, are particularly appreciated by consumers in the areas of foundations, sunscreens, and moisturizers, due to their cosmetic properties, notably their ease of application, which is characterized by the absence or significant reduction of tightness, dryness, and / or stickiness and / or greasiness compared to direct oil-in-water emulsions. These same inverse emulsions also allow for a greater concentration of fillers and / or pigments and provide good homogeneity during application compared to direct emulsions. However, such compositions generally have the disadvantage of being difficult to stabilize.

[0004] Consumers are also increasingly looking for cosmetic products made up, in whole or in part, of natural or naturally derived constituents, whether for reasons of better skin tolerance or for reasons of environmental protection.

[0005] By “natural compound” is meant a compound which is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0006] By "naturally occurring" compounds, we mean a natural compound that has undergone a or Additional chemical or industrial treatments that cause modifications not affecting the essential qualities of the compound and / or a compound consisting mainly of natural constituents, whether or not they have undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatments that cause modifications not affecting the essential qualities of a natural compound, one can mention those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference Guide for Organic and Ecological Cosmetic Products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Tissue Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0007] The use of non-volatile vegetable oils in the formulation of cosmetic compositions has been known since antiquity. These oils have emollient and moisturizing properties and give the skin a very soft feel.

[0008] However, non-volatile vegetable oils, due to their high polarity, can reduce the stability of emulsions. Furthermore, these oils can give the compositions containing them an excessively greasy and sticky character, both during and after application, particularly when present in high concentrations. In addition, they can cause a glossy effect, which may be detrimental to the desired cosmetic properties, especially in skincare or makeup applications, such as with foundations.

[0009] The disadvantages mentioned above may be all the more pronounced when the cosmetic composition is a reverse emulsion comprising an external oily phase.

[0010] To overcome these drawbacks, it has already been proposed to combine these non-volatile vegetable oils with silicone oils, particularly volatile ones, in order to reduce their greasy and sticky nature and thus facilitate the application of cosmetic compositions. However, this solution does not meet the expectations of consumers who today seek cosmetic products derived from "green chemistry," that is to say, products made up of a majority of natural or naturally derived compounds.

[0011] For obvious reasons, taking into account this expectation of users in the development of conventional emulsions raises difficulties in particular with regard to incompatibilities between these so-called natural compounds and those conventionally selected, which are detrimental to the stability of the emulsions.

[0012] Thus, the use of polyglyceryl polyricinoleate emulsifying surfactants, which, as described in patent DE 44 09 569, constitute a privileged class of surfactants of natural origin insofar as they result from an esterification reaction of polyglycerol and an acid of vegetable origin, can alter the stability of the compositions comprising them, resulting in particular in coa- lescence.

[0013] To overcome this drawback, it has been proposed to introduce high levels of polyols into the aqueous phase of these emulsions in order to increase the stability of the compositions. US 6,013,255 and WO 2008 / 055692 describe the use of a polyol in emulsions comprising polyglyceryl polyricinoleate.

[0014] However, this solution can cause a sticky feeling during application or after makeup and therefore is not always satisfactory in terms of application comfort, particularly in terms of ease of application such as good glide.

[0015] Patent FR2933868 has proposed inverse emulsions comprising at least one naturally occurring volatile linear alkane such as those described in Cognis patent application WO 2007 / 068371 and at least one calcium carbonate.

[0016] In patent FR 2936154, inverse emulsions comprising at least one volatile linear alkane such as those described in Cognis patent application WO 2007 / 068371, at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate, and at least one polyol chosen more particularly sorbitol associated with glycerin.

[0017] However, these compositions are not fully satisfactory in terms of stability, sensory properties such as the absence of stickiness, good comfort properties such as ease of application and good glide.

[0018] There is a need to find new cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising natural or naturally derived compounds, which are stable, have good sensory makeup properties, good comfort properties for application without the disadvantages mentioned previously.

[0019] The applicant, during its research, unexpectedly discovered that this objective was achieved using a silicone-free composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in particular, in a physiologically acceptable environment: a) a continuous oily phase containing: (i) at least one non-volatile vegetable oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane; and b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; and (c) at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant; and d) at least one C3 or C4 alkanediol; and e) at least glycerin.

[0020] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0021] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a silicone-free composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a continuous oily phase containing: (i) at least one non-volatile vegetable oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane; and b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; and (c) at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant; and d) at least one C3 or C4 alkanediol; and e) at least glycerin.

[0022] The invention also relates to a method of coating keratinous materials, more particularly makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, such as skin, characterized in that it comprises the application on keratinous materials of a composition as defined above. Definitions

[0023] In the context of the present invention, "keratinous material" includes, in particular, the skin (body, face, eye contour), lips, eyelashes, and eyebrows. More specifically, "keratinous material" includes the skin

[0024] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0025] For the purposes of the present invention, "water-in-oil emulsion" also called inverse emulsion means any composition consisting of a continuous oily phase in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture to the naked eye.

[0026] By "silicone" is meant any compound comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0027] By "silicone-free composition" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight of silicone compound, or less than 0.5% by weight, or less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of silicone compound. Oily phase

[0028] A cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises an oily phase containing at least one non-volatile vegetable oil and at least one volatile alkane.

[0029] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure.

[0030] A composition of the invention may comprise an oily phase in a content ranging from 5 to 95%, in particular from 10 to 80%, in particular from 15 to 70%, and more particularly from 20 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a) Vegetable oils

[0031] The oily phase of the composition of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile vegetable oil.

[0032] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on keratinous material at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0033] A vegetable oil can be extracted from a vegetable product either by a single cold pressing (virgin oil) or by hot pressing and refining (refined oil).

[0034] The non-volatile vegetable oils of the invention are oils extracted directly from plants without undergoing chemical modification.

[0035] As examples of suitable non-volatile vegetable oils for the invention, the following may be mentioned: aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, candlenut oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, shea oil, alfalfa oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, oil of millet, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, barley oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, poppy oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil,Pumpkin oil, butternut squash oil, quinoa oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, rye oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0036] According to one embodiment, a non-volatile vegetable oil suitable for the invention can in particular be chosen from macadamia oil, olive oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.5 to 50% by weight of non-volatile vegetable oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1 to 25% by weight of vegetable oil, and more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight of non-volatile vegetable oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Volatile alkanes

[0038] The oily phase of the composition of the invention comprises at least one alkane volatile.

[0039] By "alkane" is meant any compound comprising a saturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, consisting exclusively of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms.

[0040] By "volatile alkane" suitable for the invention, we mean a cosmetic alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, i.e. 101,325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, having in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm2 / min, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0041] As an example of a volatile alkane usable in the oily phase of the composition of the invention, branched alkanes such as C8-Cl6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) may be cited as Isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodocane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®. Isododecane will be used more specifically.

[0042] As an example of a volatile alkane usable in the oily phase of the composition of the invention, one can also mention the linear volatile alkanes in C6-Ci9.

[0043] As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

[0044] By way of example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Ci0), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (Cn), n-tetradecane (CM), and mixtures thereof.

[0045] In particular, we can mention n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12 97® and PARAFOL 14 97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0046] According to one embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used. In particular, the dodecane / tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85 / 15 marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214© can be used.

[0047] According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-Ci2 with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE is used, such as the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK©.

[0048] A mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane will be used in particular. (Cn) such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by BASF.

[0049] Preferably, the volatile alkane(s) are present in a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 90% by weight, in particular from 1 to 50% by weight, and more particularly from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, c) Additional non-volatile oils

[0050] According to a particular mode, the oily phase may comprise at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (different from the non-volatile vegetable oils previously described).

[0051] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.

[0052] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on keratinous material at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0053] Among the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, we can mention phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203); fatty esters such as diisopropyl sebacate (STERARINERIES DUBOIS, DUB DIS), isopropyl myristate (STERARINERIES DUBOIS, DUB IPM), isopropyl palmitate (OLEON, RADIA 7732); triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids can have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and, in particular, from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;These oils can, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel.

[0054] Squalane can also be cited as the product sold under the trade name NEOSSANCE SQUALANE® sold by the company APRINOVA.

[0055] We can also mention dialkyl ether oils having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether such as the product sold under the trade name ROFETAN OE / MB® by the company ECOGREEN OLEOCHEMICALS or the product sold under the trade name CETIOL OE / MB® by the company BASF.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a mixture of squalane and dicaprylyl ether will be used.

[0057] Preferably, the additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil or oils are present in a concentration less than or equal to 50% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] According to a particular method, the weight ratio of the total quantity of vegetable oil(s) to the total quantity of volatile alkane(s) varies from 1 / 40 to 1 / 1 and preferably from 1 / 20 to 1 / 5.

[0059] According to a particular method, the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile vegetable oil(s) and additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total quantity of volatile alkane(s) varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1, and preferably from 1 / 4 to 1 / 1. Aqueous phase

[0060] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as water-soluble solvents.

[0061] A suitable water for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.

[0062] A composition of the invention may comprise water in a content varying from 5 to 80%, and more particularly from 20 to 65%, and even more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] The composition according to the invention contains at least glycerin. Glycerin is present in a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactant polyglyceryl polyricinoleate

[0064] A composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant.

[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, "surfactant" means an amphiphilic compound, that is to say, having two parts of different polarities. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifying surfactants used in the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions, their HLB is generally less than or equal to 8, and more specifically ranging from 3 to 8. The HLB value can be determined by the Griffin method or the Da Vies method.

[0066] For the purposes of this invention, "polyglyceryl polyricinoleate" means an ester resulting from the esterification of one or more polyglycerols with at least one polyricinoleic acid.

[0067] A polyglycerol suitable for the invention can be chosen from the following compounds of general formula (I): [Chem 1] in which n represents an integer between 1 and 11, and in particular between 1 and 7.

[0068] A polyricinoleic acid suitable for the invention can be chosen from the compounds with the following general formula (II): [Chem 2] OH C4Chh)?-CH-CH'CH2-GH-(CH9X-CF^ r OG k ÇM CHs^ 'C H-CH'-CHz- CH - (CHs îs*-CHs.J in which m represents an integer, between 0 and 10, in particular between 1 and 8, and more particularly between 1 and 5.

[0069] A suitable polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant for the invention may be an ester total or partial.

[0070] Preferably, a suitable polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant for the invention is a partial ester.

[0071] For the purposes of the invention, "partial ester" means a compound in which not all the -OH groups of the polyglycerol units have been esterified by polyricinoleic acid, in other words, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate compound comprising at least one free -OH group on the polyglycerol chain.

[0072] By way of example, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate suitable for the invention may be a compound of the following general formula (III): [Chem. 3] z0-A ch2 ch-or ch2 0 CH, I CH-OR I ch2 Q CH-OR I ch2 vo-r' (III) in which R and R' represent, indifferently, radicals chosen from a hydrogen atom or a polyricinoleate chain, provided that at least one of these radicals R or R' is a polyricinoleate chain.

[0073] Preferably, at least one of the R or R' groups of the polyglycerol chain is a hydrogen atom.

[0074] According to one embodiment, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant suitable for the invention may have an HLB (Hydrophile Lipophilic Balance) between 3 and 8.

[0075] By way of example of polyglyceryl polyricinoleate(s) surfactant(s) suitable for the invention, one may mention in particular polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleates, in particular marketed by the Karlshamns company under the name AKOLINE PGPR® or by the Stéarinerie Dubois Fils company under the name DUB PGPR or by the Dr. Straetmans company under the name DERMOFEEL®, or by the Croda company under the name CRESTER PR® or by the Sasol company under the name IMWITOR 600®; polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleates marketed by the Taiyo Kagaku Co. LTD company under the name SUNSOFT NO.818R®; polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates marketed by Nikko Chemicals Co. LTD under the name HEXAGLYN PR-15® or by Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co. LTD under the name S-FACE CR-1001®; polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates marketed by Nikko-Chemicals Co. LTD under the name DECAGLYN PR-20®.

[0076] According to one embodiment, mixtures of these compounds can be implemented.

[0077] More particularly, a suitable polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant for the invention is Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate.

[0078] A composition of the invention comprises, preferably, 2 to 10% by weight of polyglyceryl polyricinoleate(s) surfactant, in particular 3 to 8% by weight, and more particularly 4 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. C3 or C4 alkanediol

[0079] A composition according to the invention comprises at least one C3 or C4 alkanediol.

[0080] By C3 or C4 alkanediol, we mean any saturated alkane compound, linear or branched, comprising a hydrocarbon chain consisting exclusively of hydrogen atoms, 3 or 4 carbon atoms and two hydroxyl groups at different positions.

[0081] They can be chosen from 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (INCI name METHYL-PROPANEDIOL), 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol (INCI name PRO-PANEDIOL), 1,2-butanediol (or 1,2-butylene Glycol), 1,4-butanediol (or tetra-methylene glycol), 2,3-butanediol (or 2,3-butylene Glycol), ), 1,3-butanediol (INCI name BUTYLENEGLYCOL).

[0082] 1,3-propanediol (INCI name PROPANEDIOL) will be used more particularly,

[0083] A composition of the invention comprises, preferably, from 0.1 to 10% by weight of C3 or C4 alkanediol(s), in particular from 0.5 to 8% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] According to a particular method, the weight ratio of the total amount of alkanediol(s) to the total amount of glycerin varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1, and preferably from 1 / 4 to 1 / 1. Sugar alcohol

[0085] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one sugar alcohol.

[0086] The term "sugar alcohol" refers to a sugar containing only hydroxyl groups. These sugar alcohols are distinct from ketoses and aldoses, which contain ketone or aldehyde groups. Sugar alcohols are described in particular in the Kirk Otmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, John Wiley and Sons, article "Sugar Alcohols," 2005.

[0087] Preferably, the sugar alcohols usable in the compositions according to the invention correspond to the general formula: [Chem.4] HO-CH2-(CHOH)n-CH2-OH with n an integer ranging from 2 to 5.

[0088] Preferably, the sugar alcohol is chosen from erythritol, sorbitol, threitol, ribitol, arabinitol, allitol, dulcitol, iditol, altrititol, lactitol, maltitol, the Mannitol, xylitol, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0089] In a particularly preferred manner, the sugar alcohol is sorbitol (INCI names: SORBITOL or HYDROGENATED STARCH HYDROLYSATE).

[0090] The composition according to the invention preferably contains 1 to 15% by weight of sugar alcohol(s), even more preferably 2 to 12% by weight, better still 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Monoester of linear, saturated C-Cu carboxylic acid and glycerol

[0091] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one monoester of linear and saturated C7-Ci4 carboxylic acid and glycerol.

[0092] Among the monoesters of linear and saturated C7-Ci4 carboxylic acid and glycerol, usable in the compositions of the invention, the following may be mentioned: - Glyceryl Heptanoate (C7) such as the product with the trade name LEXGARD NATURAL GH70® (Inolex Inc.); - Glyceryl Caprylate (C8) such as the products with the trade name AEC GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); CAPMUL 708G© (Abitec Corporation); CREMERCOOR GC 8® (IOI Oleo GmbH); DERMOSOFT GMCY® (Dr. Straetmans GmbH); DUB 8G® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); IMWITOR 308® and IMWITOR 988® (IOI Oleo GmbH); LEXGARD GMCY MB® (Inolex Inc.); ORISTAR GCC (Orient Stars LLC); SUNSOFT 707® and SUNSOFT 700 P-2® (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); 104528 SYMLITE G8® (Symrise); - Glyceryl Caprylate (C8) / Caprate (Cio) such as the products with the trade name AEC GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.); CREMERCOOR GC810 (IOI Oleo GmbH); Dub 810 G (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); - le Glyceryl Caprate (Cio) tel que les produits de dénomination commerciale CAPMUL MCM C-10® (Abitec Corporation) ; DERMOSOFT GMC® (Dr. Straetmans GmbH) ; AEC GLYCERYL CAPRATE® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics) ; LEXGARD GMC® (Inolex Inc.) ; SUNSOFT 760 (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; - le Glyceryl Laurate (Ci2) tel que les produits de dénomination commerciale AEC GLYCERYL LAURATE® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics) ; COLONIAL MONOLAURIN® (Colonial Chemical Inc) ; DUB LG® (Stearinerie Dubois Fils) ; JEECHEM MLD® (Jeen International Corporation) ; LAURICIDIN (Med-Chem Labs., Inc.) ; MONOMULS 90-L 12 (BASF Corporation) ; ORISTAR GL (Orient Stars LLC) ; PELEMOL GMLA® (Phoenix Chemical, Inc.) ; PROTACHEM MLD® (Protameen Chemicals) ; SUNSOFT 750® (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; ULTRAPURE GML® (Ultra Chemical, Inc.) - Glyceryl Myristate (CM) such as the trade name products AEC GLYCERYL MYRISTATE® (A & E Connock Perfumery & Cosmetics); CITHROL GMM (Croda Europe); DUB MG (Stearinerie Dubois Fils); NIKKOL MGM (Nikko Chemicals Co„ Ltd.); ORISTAR GMA (Orient Stars LLC); SUNSOFT 8002 (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); and - their mixtures.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, Glyceryl Caprylate will be used.

[0094] The composition according to the invention preferably contains from 0.05 to 3% by weight of monoester(s) of linear and saturated C7-Ci4 carboxylic acid and glycerol, even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Mono-alcohol

[0095] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the invention further comprise at least one mono-alcohol, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0096] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more mono-alcohols.

[0097] This mono-alcohol can be represented for example by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0098] Examples of mono-alcohols include ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.

[0099] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a monoalcohol selected from isopropanol, ethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] According to an advantageous embodiment, the quantity of mono-alcohol(s) varies from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Powdered coloring materials

[0101] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according the invention further comprises at least one powdered coloring material.

[0102] Powdered colouring materials can be chosen from pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.

[0103] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0105] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, and ZrO₂ mixed with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, and ZnS.

[0106] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0107] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 1 Opm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0108] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, specifically the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0109] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0111] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0112] According to a preferred mode, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which can include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0113] According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by KOBO.

[0114] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0115] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0116] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in French patent FR 2 679 771.

[0117] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments such as they are described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0118] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0119] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0120] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0121] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0122] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a powdered colouring material of the mineral pigment type, in particular metal oxides, especially titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or uncoated, and mixtures thereof.

[0123] The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0124] Preferably, said coloring matter is present in the composition at a concentration of 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 25% by weight, more particularly 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic compositions

[0125] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0126] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0127] The compositions according to the invention may, in addition, comprise additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products such as: - active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3 - sunscreens; - additional coloring agents; - charges; - hydrophilic gelling agents; - lipophilic gelling agents; - perfumes - conservatives - and their mixtures.

[0128] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that their desired cosmetic properties are not affected. Additional coloring agents

[0129] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional water-soluble or fat-soluble colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0131] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be fat-soluble.

[0132] By "liposoluble colouring material", in the sense of the invention, is meant any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat and capable of colouring.

[0133] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may be cited in particular as fat-soluble colorants, synthetic or natural such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0134] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0135] For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble colouring material" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of colouring.

[0136] Suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention may include, in particular: cited are synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Charges

[0137] Compositions according to the invention may also include at least one filler enabling, in particular, the provision of additional properties of matte finish, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0138] The term "filler" refers to colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are insoluble and dispersed in the composition. Whether mineral or organic in nature, they contribute to giving body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

[0139] The fillers can be mineral or organic.

[0140] Preferably, they will be chosen from natural or naturally sourced charges.

[0141] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0142] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0143] Examples of mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0144] A mineral filler chosen from natural or synthetic micas, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof will be used more preferentially.

[0145] Examples of organic fillers include natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0146] Preferably, the filler(s) are present in the composition at a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Gelling agents

[0147] Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more hydrophilic gelling agents, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water and / or one or more lipophilic gelling agents, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water, can be incorporated into a composition of the invention.

[0148] Preferably, hydrophilic gelling agents and / or lipophilic gelling agents will be chosen over natural or naturally derived gelling agents.

[0149] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include, in particular, polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and mixtures thereof.

[0150] Examples of lipophilic gelling agents include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX Bentone Gel VS38®), hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Distear-dimonium hectorite) such as the product marketed under the name "Bentone 38 CE®" by the company RHEOX.

[0151] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a continuous oily phase comprising at least: (i) a mixture of undecane and tridecane; and (ii) macadamia oil and / or olive oil; and b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; and c) the surfactant POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE; and d) at least 1,3-propanediol; and e) at least glycerin.

[0152] According to a particular mode, said composition further comprises f) at least one sugar alcohol, and more particularly sorbitol.

[0153] According to a particular mode, said composition further comprises g) at least one monoester of linear and saturated C7-Ci4 carboxylic acid and glycerol, and more particularly Glyceryl Caprylate.

[0154] According to a particular mode, said composition further comprises (h) at least one pigment selected from iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof; or chosen from iron oxides coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, titanium dioxides coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound; and mixtures thereof.

[0155] According to a particular mode, said composition further comprises i) at least one mineral filler, and more particularly chosen from natural or synthetic micas, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0156] According to a particular method, said composition further comprises j) at least one natural or naturally derived hydrophilic gelling agent and / or at least one natural or naturally derived lipophilic gelling agent, and more preferably at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from among modified clays, and more particularly a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium hectorite) such as the product marketed under the name "Bentone 38 CE®" by the company RHEOX or the product "Bentone 38VCG" by the company ELEMENTIS. Applications

[0157] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin care composition, in particular for the body or face, in particular for the face.

[0158] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.

[0159] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously take the form of a basic composition for makeup.

[0160] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

[0161] According to another sub-equation of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin makeup composition, particularly for the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a blush.

[0162] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art. Stability

[0163] By "stable emulsion", according to the invention, a homogeneous and regular (water-in-oil) emulsion is meant, which does not change its appearance at the macroscopic and microscopic scales for 1 month at 45°C. The emulsion does not separate (aqueous phase and oil phase), and does not release oil.

[0164] The stability of a composition of the invention can be evaluated by means of one of the The following protocols:

[0165] The stability of compositions according to the invention can be evaluated, for example, by monitoring the evolution of the size of the globules of the aqueous phase over time.

[0166] When the average size of the globules in a composition increases over time, it means that it is subject to coalescence problems, resulting in a phenomenon of heterogeneity and reflecting an instability of the composition.

[0167] This monitoring of the evolution of the size of the globules can be carried out by granulometry measurements.

[0168] As an example of a protocol suitable for the invention, the following protocol may be mentioned.

[0169] Particle size measurements are carried out on 25 ml samples of the compositions to be analyzed, on the same day as their manufacture, as well as after 14 days, 30 days and 60 days of storage at 45 °C.

[0170] These measurements can be carried out using a Master Sizer 2000® particle size analyzer from Malvem Instruments, which determines the particle size distribution by light diffraction. The value of the volume mean diameter, denoted D [4,3] and expressed in pm, can then be obtained from the particle size analyzer.

[0171] The stability of an emulsion can also be assessed by visual inspection. For example, the stability of a composition can be assessed by observing the extent of sedimentation occurring in a sample of the composition after 1 month of storage at 45 °C.

[0172] Alternatively, the stability of a composition can be evaluated by observing a sample of said composition after storage at room temperature following 14 days, 30 days and 60 days of storage at 45 °C, at a magnification of X10.

[0173] Its microscopic appearance must remain close to the initial appearance. In particular, no degradation of the emulsion should be observed (coarser emulsion base, coalescence indicated by the presence of numerous large droplets, modification of the preparation edges, presence of crystals).

[0174] Alternatively, the stability of a composition can also be evaluated according to any protocol known to a person skilled in the art.

[0175] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0176] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0177] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities shown are expressed as percentages. mass Examples 1 and 2 (invention) and counter-examples 1, 2, 3, 4 (non-invention)

[0178] Compositions 1 and 2 according to the invention and counterexamples 1, 2, 3 and 4 outside the invention have been prepared.

[0179] [Tables] Ingredients Exl Ex2 Counter -exl Counter -ex2 Counter-e x3 Counter-e x4 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 0 2.36 0 0 0 0 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 ALCOHOL DENAT.6,32 6,32 6,32 6,32 6,32 6,32 AQUA 27,43 27,43 27,43 27,43 27,43 27,43 MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA SEED OIL 2,01 2,01 2,01 2,01 2,01 2,01 GLYCERIN 5,02 5,02 7,37 0 5,02 5,02 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0,19 0,19 0,19 0,19 0,19 0,19 TOCOPHEROL 0,69 0,69 0,69 0,69 0,69 0,69 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 8,95 8,95 8,95 8,95 8,95 8,95 POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIPO-LYHYDROXYSTEARATE 0 0 0 0 0 6,01 CALCIUM CARBONATE 5,02 5,02 5,02 5,02 5,02 5,02 GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,50 0,5 PROPANEDIOL 2,36 0 0 7,37 0 2,36 UNDECANE (and) TRIDECANE 13,52 13,52 13,52 13,52 13,52 13,52 POLYGLYCERYL-6 PO- LYRICINOLEATE 6,01 6,01 6,01 6,01 6,01 0 SYNTHETIC FLUOR- PHLOGOPITE 1,28 1,28 1,28 1,28 1,28 1,28 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0 0 0 0 2,36 0 CI 77891 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 8,71 8,71 8,71 8,71 8,71 8,71 CI 77491 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM 0,49 0,49 0,49 0,49 0,49 0,49 . HYDROXIDE CI 77492 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10 2.10 CI 77499 (and) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 HYDROGENATED STARCH HY-DROLYSATE 8 8 8 4 8 8 Composition preparation protocol

[0180] The compositions of the invention are manufactured by preparing a white base not containing pigments, to which a pigment preparation is added in a second step. a. Preparation of the white base

[0181] The oily phase Al was introduced into the main beaker, which was placed on a magnetic heating plate (stirring with a magnetic bar at 200 rpm*, 60 °C).

[0182] The hectorite was then introduced (A2) under stirring for 15 minutes until a homogeneous mixture was obtained.

[0183] The mixture was then cooled to room temperature and kept under stirring. Phases A3 and A4 were then added and stirred for 5 minutes. Finally, phase A5 was introduced while continuing to stir.

[0184] The aqueous phase B was prepared by adding water heated to 95 °C to the mixture of the other raw materials of this phase previously weighed.

[0185] The emulsion was made at room temperature: the aqueous phase was poured into the oily phase while progressively increasing the stirring speed up to 4500 rpm. The formulation was carried out using a Mortiz type homogenizer.

[0186] Agitation was maintained for 10 minutes. Then the alcohol (phase C) was introduced and maintained under agitation for 5 minutes. a. Pigmentation of the white base

[0187] The white base was introduced into a beaker, then phase D was slowly added while stirring, and stirring was maintained for 20 minutes under vortexing. The formulation was carried out using a Rayneri-type homogenizer. Test protocols and results a) Sensory assessment protocol:

[0188] Each composition was stored for 24 hours at 25°C. After cleansing the model's face, 0.1 ml of the composition to be tested was applied to one cheek and spread with the fingers using circular massages until the foundation was fully applied.

[0189] The evaluation criteria are the playtime (duration of application of the composition on the skin), then the sticky, oily and dry characteristics of the skin, 5 minutes after application. b) Stability assessment protocol:

[0190] The stability of each composition was evaluated after 1 month at 45°C by observation of its macroscopic appearance and microscopic characteristics using a LEICA DM2500 type microscope.

[0191] The test results are shown in Tables 2 and 3 below.

[0192] [Tables2] Composition Example 1 Invention Propanediol (C3) + Glycerin + Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate Example 2 Invention Butylene Glycol (C4) + Glycerin + Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate Counter-example 1 Glycerin without alkanediol + Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate Counter-example 2 Propanediol without Glycerin + Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate Sensory properties during and after application Good playtime, Skin feels smooth and non-sticky after application Good playtime, Skin feels smooth and non-sticky after application Short playtime, Skin feels oily and sticky after application Dry skin after application

[0193] The test results showed that Examples 1 and 2 of the invention, comprising glycerin, a C3 or C4 alkanediol (propanediol or butylene glycol), and a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, exhibit both good playtime and, after application, leave the skin feeling smooth (non-greasy, non-dry) and non-sticky, unlike - to counter-example 1 of identical composition but not containing C3 or C4 alkanediol; - to counter-example 2, which has the same composition but does not contain glycerin.

[0194] [Tables3] Composition Example 1 Invention Propanediol 1(C3) + Glycerin + Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate Example 2 Invention Butylene Glycol (C4) + Glycerin + Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate Counter-ex 1 Glycerin without alkanediol Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate Counter-ex 3 Pentylene Glycol (Cs) + Glycerin + Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate Counter-ex 4 Propanediol (C3) + Glycerin + Polyglyceryl-2 Di-polyhydroxystearate Stability after 1 month at 45°C Stable Stable Unstable, coalescence (appearance of larger droplets) Unstable, coalescence (appearance of larger droplets) Unstable, release at the surface

[0195] The test results showed that Examples 1 and 2 of the invention, comprising glycerin, a C3 or C4 alkanediol (propanediol or butylene glycol), and a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant, are stable, unlike - to counter-example 1 of identical composition but not containing C3 or C4 alkanediol; - to counter-example 3 of identical composition but containing a C5 alkanediol (pentylene glycol); - to counter-example 4 of identical composition in which the surfactant Poly-glyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate has been replaced by Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate.

Claims

Demands

1. Silicone-free composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a continuous oily phase containing: i) at least one non-volatile vegetable oil; and ii) at least one volatile alkane; and b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase: c) at least one polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant; and d) at least one C3 or C4 alkanediol; and e) at least some glycerin.

2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising an oily phase in a content varying from 5 to 95%, in particular from 10 to 80%, in particular from 15 to 70%, and more particularly from 20 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the non-volatile vegetable oil is selected from macadamia oil, olive oil, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.5 to 50% by weight of non-volatile vegetable oil(s), in particular from 1 to 25% by weight, and more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile alkane is selected from branched alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin, in particular selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and more particularly isododecane.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the volatile alkane is selected from the linear volatile C6-Ci9 alkanes, in particular from n-hexane (C6); n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (Ci0), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (Ci2), n-tridecane (Cn), n-tetradecane (Ci4), and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the volatile linear alkane is a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-Ci2 of INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE.

8. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the volatile linear alkane is a mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn).

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile alkane(s) are present in a concentration from 0.5% to 90% by weight, in particular from 1 to 50% by weight, and more particularly from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase further comprises at least one additional non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein the additional hydrocarbon non-volatile oil or oils are present in a concentration less than or equal to 50% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile vegetable oil(s) to the total quantity of volatile alkane(s) varies from 1 / 40 to 1 / 1 and preferably from 1 / 20 to 1 / 5.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-volatile vegetable oil(s) and non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total quantity of volatile alkane(s) varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1, and preferably from 1 / 4 to 1 / 1

14. 1 / 1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a content varying from 5 to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 20 to 65% by weight, and even more preferably from 30 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein glycerin is present in a concentration from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant polyglyceryl polyricinoleate is Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate.

17. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 2 to 10% by weight of polyglyceryl polyricinoleate(s) surfactant, in particular from 3 to 8% by weight, and more particularly 4 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C3 or C4 alkane diol is selected from 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C3 or C4 alkane diol is 1,3-propanediol.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C3 or C4 alkanediol(s) are present at a concentration of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 8% by weight, and more particularly 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the total amount of alkanediol(s) to the total amount of glycerin varies from 1 / 8 to 1 / 1 and preferably from 1 / 4 to 1 / 1.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one sugar alcohol.

23. Composition according to claim 22, wherein the sugar alcohol is selected from erythritol, sorbitol, threitol, ribitol, arabinitol, allitol, dulcitol, iditol, altrititol, lactitol, maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly sorbitol.

24. Composition according to claim 22 or 23, containing from 1 to 15% by weight of sugar alcohol(s), more preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, better still from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one monoester of linear, saturated C7-Ci4 carboxylic acid and glycerol.

26. Composition according to claim 25, wherein the monoester of linear and saturated C7-Ci4 carboxylic acid and glycerol is selected from: - Glyceryl Heptanoate (C7); - Glyceryl Caprylate (C8); - Glyceryl Caprylate (C8) / Caprate (CiO); - Glyceryl Caprate (CiO); - Glyceryl Laurate (Ci2); - Glyceryl Myristate (CM); - mixtures thereof, and more particularly Glyceryl Caprylate.

27. ​​Composition according to claim 25 or 26, containing from 0.05 to 3% in weight of linear and saturated C7-Ci4 carboxylic acid monoester and glycerol, even more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one mono-alcohol, linear or branched, having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, in particular choosing ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.

29. Composition according to claim 28, wherein the quantity of mono-alcohol(s) varies from 2% to 15% by weight, preferably from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one powdered colouring material, preferably selected from pigments, mother-of-pearls and mixtures thereof; and more particularly a mineral pigment selected from metallic oxides, in particular titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or uncoated, and mixtures thereof.

31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one filler, preferably at least one mineral filler; more particularly selected from natural or synthetic micas, calcium carbonate and mixtures thereof.

32. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and / or at least one lipophilic gelling agent; preferably said gelling agents being natural or of natural origin.

33. Composition according to claim 32, comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from among the modified clays; and more particularly a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride of INCI name: DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE.

34. A method for coating keratinous materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, such as skin, characterized in that it comprises applying to keratinous materials a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 33.