Perfumed aqueous composition comprising at least two surfactants, at least one perfume substance and at least one diol
The combination of specific surfactants and diols in an aqueous perfumed composition addresses the challenge of maintaining transparency and stability without ethanol, enhancing fragrance persistence and skin hydration, suitable for cosmetic applications.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2021013684
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-16
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-10
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-16
AI Technical Summary
Existing perfumed cosmetic compositions face challenges in achieving transparency without ethanol, while maintaining stability, odor persistence, and skin hydration, and are often irritating to sensitive skin.
Aqueous perfumed compositions comprising non-ionic surfactants like C6-C10 alkyl polyglucosides, additional surfactants, perfuming substances, and diols, with a specific weight ratio and low ethanol content, ensuring stability and transparency without ethanol.
The composition achieves a homogeneous, stable, and transparent perfumed cosmetic product that provides skin hydration and softness, with enhanced fragrance intensity and reduced foaming, suitable for sensitive skin.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Perfumed aqueous composition comprising at least two surfactants, at least one perfuming substance and at least one diol Technical field
[0001] The present invention aims to propose a new perfumed cosmetic composition, for the field of perfuming keratin materials and / or clothing, but also for the care or cosmetic treatment of keratin materials. Prior art
[0002] Generally speaking, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products is becoming an important issue in order to satisfy new consumer expectations, in particular those of natural and / or eco-designed products, i.e. products whose design and development take environmental impacts into account.
[0003] It is thus common to seek to replace synthetic compounds present in cosmetic compositions with natural and / or naturally derived ingredients.
[0004] These environmental issues concern all cosmetic products, particularly perfumed compositions.
[0005] It is known that a perfume is the combination of different odorous substances which evaporate at different times. Each perfume has what is called a "top note" which is the odor diffused first when the perfume is applied or when the container containing it is opened, a "heart or body note" which corresponds to the complete perfume (emission for a few hours after the "top note") and a "base note" which is the most persistent odor (emission for several hours after the "heart note"). The persistence of the base note corresponds to the remanence of the perfume.
[0006] Human beings have always sought to perfume themselves and the objects around them or the places in which they find themselves, both to mask strong and / or unpleasant odors and to give a good smell.
[0007] It is common to incorporate perfume into a number of products or compositions, in particular cosmetic and dermatological products such as fresh waters, toilet waters, perfume waters, aftershave lotions, treatment waters or even colognes.
[0008] A perfume or a perfume composition must be stable and have a pleasant smell. They must resist different aggressions such as light and dif- temperature differences.
[0009] Furthermore, transparency or translucency is a particularly sought-after and appreciated effect which corresponds to a current trend, also applicable to perfume compositions.
[0010] Thus, consumers are looking for completely transparent perfume compositions.
[0011] The difficulty to be resolved in order to meet this need is to produce a composition with a high concentration of perfume or aroma, and this without affecting the transparency of the composition, the incorporation of a perfume in a fairly large quantity generally resulting in an opaque product.
[0012] Furthermore, a problem specific to the field of perfume compositions is that of the typical presence of alcohol.
[0013] Indeed, in the preparation of perfume compositions such as perfumes or eaux de toilette, the use of ethanol as a solvent is very widespread. Ethanol allows the perfume ingredients used by the perfumer to be well solubilized. It is a very good solvent which evaporates quickly, thus providing a sensation of freshness. Ethanol also has the advantage of being inexpensive and allowing the formulation of transparent compositions.
[0014] For such reasons, the majority of perfume compositions on the market contain ethanol, generally present in high levels.
[0015] However, there is currently a trend on the international market towards ethanol-free perfumes, with a consumer preference for ethanol-free products aimed at sensitive skin and allowing safe use.
[0016] Indeed, the presence of ethanol makes perfume compositions irritating to the skin and tends to dry it out.
[0017] Furthermore, ethanol has a significant volatility, and it is thus desirable to obtain perfuming compositions whose ethanol content is very low, or even zero. Description of the invention
[0018] There therefore remains a need for new transparent perfumed formulations, in particular aqueous ones, without ethanol, containing essentially natural products and / or of natural origin, and which remain stable and homogeneous over time and under the effects of light and temperature.
[0019] In particular, there remains a need to have such perfumed cosmetic compositions, the evolution of the organoleptic properties of which, namely the odor and / or the color, is controlled over time.
[0020] There also remains a need to increase the persistence of such perfuming compositions on keratin materials without the perfume degrading, in particular in contact with the other constituents of the composition. In addition, it is interesting to provide consumers with perfume formulas that foam very little, or even do not foam at all, despite the use of surfactant, and which are visually pleasing.
[0021] There also remains a need for such compositions which provide softness and hydration when applied to keratin materials, particularly the skin.
[0022] Finally, there also remains a need to have perfume compositions compatible with current consumer requirements, particularly from an environmental point of view.
[0023] The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs. Summary of the invention
[0024] Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to an aqueous perfumed composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising: - a) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from C6-C10 alkyl polyglucosides; - b) at least one additional surfactant, distinct from the non-ionic surfactant a), preferably chosen from non-ionic and / or anionic surfactants; - c) at least one perfume substance; and - d) at least one diol; it being understood that: the weight ratio of surfactant(s) a) / perfuming substance(s) c) is between 0.1 and 2; and the composition comprises an ethanol content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0025] Preferably, in a composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of surfactant(s) a) / perfuming substance(s) c) is between 0.2 and 1.5, and preferably between 0.3 and 1.
[0026] Preferably, the ethanol content in the composition is less than or equal to 1% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition is free of ethanol.
[0027] The inventors have found, surprisingly, that the combination of at least one specific non-ionic surfactant with perfuming substances in a particular ratio, and with at least one diol, makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and stable transparent perfumed cosmetic composition, even in the presence of a high content of perfuming substances, which do not degrade over time.
[0028] The presence of an additional surfactant distinct from the specific surfactant mentioned above makes it possible to formulate such perfuming compositions whose properties organoleptic properties are further improved, in particular the color deteriorates less over time, the fragrance left after application is more intense and the foaming character is reduced.
[0029] The perfumed composition according to the invention also provides hydration and a feeling of softness, and does not require the presence of ethanol.
[0030] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 90% by weight of natural or naturally occurring compounds, in particular at least 95% by weight, preferably at least 98% by weight, and more preferably at least 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is transparent.
[0032] A composition according to the invention is intended in particular for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.
[0033] Thus, the invention relates, according to yet another of these aspects, to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention.
[0034] The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin, or of a garment, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin materials and / or said garment, a perfumed composition according to the invention.
[0035] It is understood that the cosmetic treatment methods referred to in the present application are non-therapeutic.
[0036] A composition according to the invention is intended in particular to be used in order to perfume keratin materials and / or clothing.
[0037] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a method for perfuming keratin materials, and in particular the skin, and / or a garment, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials and / or said garment of the composition as defined above.
[0038] Preferably, the application of the composition can be done by spraying, in particular using a sprayer. Definitions
[0039] In the context of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the following definitions apply:
[0040] By "natural" in the sense of the present invention, is meant a compound or extract obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration, or even resulting from a biotechnological process, in particular from cell cultures or microbio logical, for example from fungi or bacteria. So-called "natural" compounds include compounds that are present in nature and can be reproduced by chemical (hemi)synthesis.
[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “of natural origin” is intended to denote any compound obtained from a natural substance having undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this substance. As a non-limiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatments resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (Reference for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, vol. 120, 9:10.
[0042] According to the invention, a compound is considered to be natural or of natural origin when it is predominantly composed of natural constituents, that is to say when the weight ratio of the natural constituents to the non-natural constituents which compose it is greater than 1.
[0043] By "perfumed composition" or "perfuming composition" or even "perfume" within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any composition leaving a perfume after application to keratin materials.
[0044] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “perfuming substance” is understood to mean any perfume, any odorous raw material or aroma capable of releasing a pleasant odor, in particular as defined in the remainder of the text. “Perfuming”, “odorous” or “odoriferous” substances are synonymous for the purposes of the present invention.
[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the lips, the hair, the scalp, the eyelashes and eyebrows or even the nails, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the skin.
[0046] By "clear" or "transparent" in the sense of the present invention, it is meant that the composition is transparent, that is to say that it lets light pass through and the objects behind it appear clearly.
[0047] In particular, to evaluate the transparency of a composition according to the invention, a conventional commercial test tube is taken, made of transparent, untinted glass, borosilicate, soda-lime or neutral glass such as Pyrex® or Duran® glass material, 16 cm high and 1.6 cm in diameter, which is filled up to 14 cm of said tube (the bottom of the meniscus of the composition in the tube is 14 cm from the bottom of the tube), and a published international application page (in A4 format) is placed behind it at a distance of 1 cm; and by placing one's eyes at a distance (reading focal length relative to the test tube) of between 20 cm and 40 cm, such as 30 cm, and the perpendicular of the middle of the composition of said tube (approximately 7 cm from the bottom of said tube), we evaluate whether we can read distinctly through the composition in said tube, said page of the published international patent application, in particular the first page. It is understood that the tester sees correctly, or that he equips himself with glasses, lenses or any other optical devices that he normally uses to read. We can for example use the application WO 2018 / 104428 and evaluate the sharpness, i.e. manage to read the 31 lines of page 13 to carry out the test or better do the reading test on the first page.
[0048] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for application to keratin materials, in particular topical application to the skin, and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.
[0049] It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying this composition.
[0050] By “(Cx-Cz)alkyl” group is meant a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from x to z carbon atoms. For example, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0051] The expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more”.
[0052] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “includes from ... to ...”, “formed from ... to ...”, and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0053] Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more apparent on reading the description and examples which follow. Detailed description a) C6-C10 alkyl polyglucoside
[0054] As mentioned previously, a perfumed composition according to the invention comprises at least one C6-C10 alkyl polyglucoside, as non-ionic surfactant a).
[0055] Alkyl polyglucosides, or alkylpolyglucosides (APG) are known as non-ionic surfactants.
[0056] These are compounds whose chemical structure is generally represented as follows:
[0058] The hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprises from 1 to 4 saccharide units and the hydrophobic group (alkyl) may comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. The alkyl group may be linear as shown above or branched.
[0059] As mentioned above, a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one C6-C10 alkyl polyglucoside.
[0060] Preferably, the C6-C10 alkyl polyglucoside comprises 1, 2 to 3 saccharide units.
[0061] The alkyl group, linear or branched, comprises between 6 and 10 carbon atoms, preferably 8 carbon atoms.
[0062] It may be a single C6-Ci0 alkyl polyglucoside or a mixture of several C6-Ci0 alkyl polyglucosides.
[0063] As a C6-C10 alkyl polyglucoside which is particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by the company BASF, or under the name Oramix CG 110® by the company Seppic.
[0064] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of C8 and C10 alkyl glucosides, such as the 50 / 50 mixture by weight of caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as those marketed by the company Seppic under the name ORAMIX CG 110L.
[0065] The C6-C10 alkyl polyglucoside(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 18% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Additional surfactant
[0066] As mentioned above, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional surfactant, distinct from the surfactant(s) a), preferably chosen from non-ionic or anionic surfactants.
[0067] A perfumed composition according to the invention may thus comprise one or more additional surfactants, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric.
[0068] Reference may be made to the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, K1RK-OTHMER”, volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants.
[0069] As nonionic surfactants, mention may be made, for example, of those chosen from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, in particular sucrose alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, geminal surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0070] As anionic surfactants, mention may be made, for example, of those chosen from acylglutamates, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C30 fatty acids, in particular C16-C25 fatty acids, in particular metal stearates and behenates and mixtures thereof.
[0071] A composition according to the invention more particularly comprises one or more anionic surfactants in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0072] Preferably the content of anionic surfactants is less than 2% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 1% by weight, for example between 0.01% and 1% by weight, or between 0.01% and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0073] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not contain anionic surfactant.
[0074] As amphoteric surfactants, mention may be made, for example, of those chosen from betaines, sultaines and their mixtures.
[0075] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant(s) of less than 2% by weight, particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition does not contain any zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant.
[0076] As cationic surfactants, mention may be made, for example, of those chosen from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts, such as (C12-C10)-tri(C12-C10)alkylammonium halides such as N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosaminium chloride (or Behen- trimonium).
[0077] As silicone surfactants, mention may be made, for example, of those chosen from non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate, or non-ionic surfactants with an HLB less than 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, such as the cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture.
[0078] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.5% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 0.1% by weight of silicone surfactant(s), and preferably is free of silicone surfactant(s).
[0079] b-1) Polyglycerol esters of fatty acid containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms
[0080] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a composition according to the invention comprises, as additional surfactant b), at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, said fatty acid containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.
[0081] Preferably, the polyglycerol and fatty acid esters suitable for the invention are of formula (I):
[0082] RC(O)-O-[-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O]nH (I)
[0083] Formula (I) in which R represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, better still from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1, particularly between 1 and 14, preferably between 2 and 12, more preferably between 4 and 10.
[0084] As polyglycerol ester and fatty acid containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, the following commercial products may be mentioned for example: - Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate: Dermosoft DGMC (Dr. Straetmans); SunSoft Q-10D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.); - Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate: Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH); - Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate : Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.) ; Tegosoft PC 41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH) ; - Polyglyceryl-5 Caprate : SunSoft A-10E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate : Glysurf 6MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate : SunSoft Q-10S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; SY-Glyster MD-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo) (Celless Laboratory Co., Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-2 Caprylate ; - Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate : Tegosoft PC 31 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH) ; - Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate : Glysurf 4MC (Aoki Oil Industrial Co., Ltd.), Tegosoft PC 41 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH) ; - Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate : Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH) ; - Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate : Resassol PG4C (Res Pharma S.r.l.) ; - Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate : Caprol 6GC8 (Abitec Corporation) ; Dermofeel G 6 CY (Dr. Straetmans), SunSoft Q-81F (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate : SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate / Caprate : NatraGem S150 (Croda Europe, Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate : Tego Cosmo P 813 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH) ; - Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate / Caprate : SY-Glyster MCA-750 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate : Dermofeel G 2 L (Dr. Straetmans) ;DL-100 (Riken Vitamin Co., Ltd.) ; Sunsoft Q-12D (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate : Hydramol TGL Ester (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) ; Sunsoft A-12C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; Sunsoft A-121C (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd ; - Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate : S-Face L-401 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ; Tego Care PL 4 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH) ; - Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate : Dermofeel G 5 L (Dr. Straetmans) ; Sunsoft A-12E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; Sunsoft A-121E (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate : Nikkol Hexaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) ; S-Face L-601 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ; Sunsoft Q-12F (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; - Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate : Dermofeel G 10 L (Dr. Straetmans) ; Nikkol Decaglyn 1-L (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) ; Nikkol Decaglyn 1-LV EX (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) ; S-Face L-1001 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.) ; Sunsoft M-12J (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.) ; Sunsoft Q-12S (Taiyo Kagaku Company, Ltd.).
[0085] On peut citer en particulier le polyglyceryl-4 Caprate et le polyglyceryl-10 Laurate.
[0086] According to a preferred embodiment, the additional surfactant(s) b) is chosen from polyglycerol esters of fatty acids containing from 8 to 12 carbon atoms and in particular chosen from polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0087] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least poly-glyceryl-4 Caprate.
[0088] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least poly- glyceryl-10 Laurate and polyglyceryl-4-caprate.
[0089] The additional surfactant(s) b) chosen from polyglycerol esters of fatty acids containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight, and preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. b-2) Acylglutamates
[0090] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a composition according to the invention comprises, as additional surfactant b), at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acylglutamates.
[0091] The acylglutamate surfactants contain an acyl group comprising in particular from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 14 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the acylglutamate surfactants are chosen from those of the following formula (II):
[0092] RC(O)-NH-CH[CH2-CH2-C(O)O]-C(O)O, 2 M+ (II)
[0093] Formula (II) in which: R is as defined in formula (I), M+, identical or different, represents a counter cation, preferably chosen from alkali metals such as Na+, K+, alkaline earth metals such as Ca2+, Mg2+ and ammonium, preferably Na+.
[0094] They are notably chosen from stearoylglutamates, myristoylglutamates, lauroylglutamates, cocoylglutamates, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] More particularly, they may be chosen from sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, hydrogenated tallow acyl sodium glutamate and mixtures thereof.
[0096] By way of illustration, one can, for example, cite the surfactants marketed under the name Amisoft® by Ajinomoto, in particular sodium steroyl glutamate marketed under the reference Amisoft® HS 11 PRD, and disodium cocoyl glutamate (and) sodium cocoyl glutamate marketed under the reference Amisoft® CS-22.
[0097] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from cocoylglutamates, and more preferably sodium cocoyl glutamate and / or disodium cocoyl glutamate.
[0098] More preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of acylglutamates, in particular a mixture of cocoylglutamates, and preferably the disodium cocoyl glutamate (and) sodium cocoyl glutamate.
[0099] A composition according to the invention may comprise said acyl-glutamate surfactant(s) in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0100] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of surfactants ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, in particular ranging from 5% to 15% by weight, and preferably ranging from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0101] Such surfactant contents in the composition make it possible to achieve both good transparency and good stability of the composition thus formulated.
[0102] Preferably the content of acylglutamate surfactants is less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0103] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not contain acylglutamate surfactants.
[0104] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least caprylyl / capryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-4 caprate and / or polyglyceryl-10 laurate.
[0105] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least caprylyl / capryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-4 caprate and / or polyglyceryl-10 laurate, and disodium cocoyl glutamate.
[0106] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least caprylyl / capryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-4 caprate and disodium cocoyl glutamate. c) Perfume substance
[0107] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one perfuming substance.
[0108] Perfumes are compositions containing in particular the raw materials described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (Montclair, NJ, 1969), in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin (Elizabeth, NJ, 1960) and in “Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991”, Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, 111.
[0109] A perfumed composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one perfuming substance chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and their mixtures.
[0110] These may be natural products, such as essential oils, absolutes, resinoids, resins, concretes, and / or synthetic products, such as terpene or sesquiterpene hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic.
[0111] According to the definition given in the international standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is an odorous product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation, or by dry distillation, or by an appropriate mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process which does not cause a significant change in the composition.
[0112] The choice of method for obtaining essential oils depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature itself. The “essential oil / plant raw material” yield can be extremely variable depending on the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20%. This choice determines the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents.
[0113] Steam distillation corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance that is poorly miscible with water. The raw material is placed in the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor entrains the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the condenser to be recovered in liquid phase in a Florentine vase (or essencier) where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate that remains after steam distillation, once the separation of the essential oil has been carried out, is called "aromatic water" or "hydrosol" or "floral distilled water".
[0114] Obtaining by dry distillation consists of obtaining the essential oil by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without adding water or water vapor in a closed enclosure designed so that the liquid is recovered in its lower part. Cade oil constitutes the best known example of this method of obtaining.
[0115] The method of obtaining by cold expression only applies to citrus fruits (Citrus spp) by mechanical processes at room temperature. The principle of the method is as follows: the zests are shredded and the contents of the secretory pockets which have been broken are recovered by a physical process. The classic process consists of exerting an abrasive action under a stream of water on the entire surface of the fruit. After elimination of solid waste, the essential oil is separated from the aqueous phase by centrifugation. Most industrial installations in fact allow the simultaneous or sequential recovery of fruit juices and essential oil.
[0116] Essential oils are generally volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most of them deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very slightly soluble in water.
[0117] Among the essential oils that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those obtained from plants belonging to the following botanical families: Abietaceae or Pinaceae, for example conifers; Amaryllidaceae; Anacardiaceae; Anonaceae, for example ylang; Apiaceae, for example umbellifers, in particular dill, angenetic, coriander, fennel, carrot or parsley; Araceae; Aristolochiaceae; Asteraceae for example yarrow, mugwort, chamomile, and helichrysum; Betulaceae; Brassicaceae; Burseraceae, for example frankincense; Caryophyllaceae; Canellaceae; Caesalpiniaceae for example copaifera (copahu); Chenopodaceae; Cistaceae for example cistus; Cyperaceae; Dipterocarpaceae; Ericaceae e.g. wintergreen; Euphorbiaceae; Fabaceae; Geraniaceae e.g. geranium; Guttiferae; Hamamelidaceae; Hernandiaceae; Hypericaceae e.g. St. John's wort; Iridaceae; Juglandaceae;Lamiaceae, e.g. thyme, oregano, bee balm, savory, basil, marjorams, mints, patchouli, lavenders, sages, catnip, rosemary, hyssop, lemon balm, rosemary; Lauraceae, e.g. ravensara, bay, rosewood, cinnamon, litsea; Liliaceae, e.g. garlic; Magnoliaceae, e.g. magnolia; Malvaceae; Meliaceae; Monimiaceae; Moraceae, for example hemp, or hops; Myricaceae; Mysristicaceae, for example nutmeg; Myrtaceae, for example eucalyptus, tea tree, niaouli, cajeput, backousia, clove, myrtle; Oleaceae; Piperaceae, for example pepper; Pittosporaceae; Poaceae, for example lemongrass, lemongrass, vetiver; Polygonaceae; Ranunculaceae; Rosaceae, for example roses; Rubiaceae; Rutaceae, for example all citrus; Salicaceae; Santalaceae, for example sandalwood; Saxifragaceae; Schisandraceae; Styracaceae, for example benzoin; Thymelaceae, for example agarwood; Tilliaceae; Valerianaceae, e.g. valerian, spikenard; Verbenaceae, e.g. lantana, verbena; Violaceae; Zingiberaceae, e.g. galangal, turmeric, cardamom, ginger; Zygophyllaceae.
[0118] Mention may also be made of essential oils extracted from flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, neroli), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petitgrain), fruits (coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, sweet flag, ginger), wood (pine wood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, rose cedar, camphor), herbs and grasses (tarragon, rosemary, basil, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, frankincense, opopanax).
[0119] Examples of perfuming substances include: geraniol, geranyl acetate, famesol, borneol, bomyl acetate, linalool, linalyl acetate, linalyl propionate, linalyl butyrate, tetrahydrolinalool, citronellol, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, citronellyl propionate, dihydromyrcenol, dihydromyrcenyl acetate, tetrahydromyrcenol, terpineol, terpinyl acetate, nopol, nopyl acetate, nerol, neryl acetate, 2-phenylethanol, 2-phenylethyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl salicylate, styrallyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, amyl salicylate, dimethylbenzyl carbinol, trichloromethylphenylcarbinyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, isononyl acetate, vetiveryl acetate, vetiverol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, 2-methyl-3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)propanal, 2-methyl-3-(p-isopropylphenyl)propanal, 3-(p-tert-butylphenyl)-propanal, 2,4-dimethylcyclohex-3-enyl-carboxaldehyde, tricyclodecenyl acetate, tricyclodecenyl propionate,4-(4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-(4-methyl-1-3-pentenyl-1)-3-cyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, 4-acetoxy-3-pentyl-tetrahydropyran, 3-carboxymethyl-2-pentylcyclopentane, 2-n-4-heptylcyclopentanone, 3-methyl-2-pentyl-2-cyclopentenone, menthone, carvone, tagetone, geranyl acetone, n-decanal, n-dodecanal, 9-decenol-l, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, phenylacetaldehyde dimethylacetal, phenylacetaldehyde diethylacetal, geranonitrile, citronellonitrile, cedryl acetate, 3-isocamphylcyclohexanol, cedryl methyl ether, isolongifolanone, hawthornonitrile, hawthorn, heliotropin, coumarin, eugenol, vanillin, diphenyl ether, citral, citronellal, hydroxycitronellal, damascone, ionones, methylionones, isomethylionones, solanone, irones, cis-3-hexenol and its esters, musk indans, musk tetralins, musk isochromans, macrocyclic ketones,musks-macrolactones, aliphatic musks, ethylene brassylate and their mixtures.
[0120] A perfumed composition according to the invention preferably comprises a perfuming substance chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
[0121] Preferably, a perfumed composition according to the invention comprises only one or more natural or naturally derived perfume substances.
[0122] In other words, a perfumed composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.1% by weight of perfume substance(s) of synthetic origin, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 0.01% by weight of perfume substance(s) of synthetic origin, and preferably is free of perfume substance(s) of synthetic origin.
[0123] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which together generate a pleasant note for the user.
[0124] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the perfumed composition comprises at least one mixture of perfume substances, in particular at least two distinct perfume substances, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at least three distinct perfume substances.
[0125] The perfuming substances will preferably be chosen so that they produce notes (head, heart and base) in the following families: citrus, aromatic, floral notes, particularly pink flowers and white flowers, spicy, woody, gourmand, chypre, fern, leather, and musk.
[0126] For obvious reasons, the quantity of perfuming substance(s) present in a composition according to the invention is likely to vary significantly with regard to the odor or odor intensity sought by its presence.
[0127] By way of illustration, a perfumed composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 20% by weight, particularly from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, more particularly from 1.0% to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 8.0% by weight of perfume substance(s), relative to the total weight of said composition.
[0128] As mentioned above, the perfume substances can be introduced into a perfumed composition in accordance with the invention in the form of a perfume concentrate.
[0129] The perfume concentrate can be a concrete or an absolute, preferably an absolute.
[0130] Thus, a perfumed composition according to the invention particularly comprises from 0.01% to 10% by weight of perfume concentrate, more particularly from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, for example 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. d) Diol
[0131] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one diol.
[0132] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “diol” means any organic molecule comprising two free hydroxyl groups.
[0133] Preferably, a diol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
[0134] The diols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms, more particularly (C2-C32)alkanediol, the alkane part being linear or branched, preferably (C3-C16)alkanediol, more particularly (C4-C8)alkanediol.
[0135] Among the diols which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, may include, in particular, ethylene glycol, propane-1,2-diol (propylene glycol), propane-1,3-diol, butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol (pentylene glycol), dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol (octane-1,2-diol), isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0136] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one diol chosen from propane-1,2-diol, propane-1,3-diol and their mixture, and preferably comprises at least propane-1,2-diol.
[0137] A perfumed composition according to the invention may comprise a content of diol(s) ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 4% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase
[0138] A composition according to the invention is aqueous. Thus, it comprises at least one aqueous phase.
[0139] The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water, and optionally a water-soluble solvent, distinct from the diol(s) mentioned above.
[0140] In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
[0141] The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.
[0142] Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of lower monoalcohols having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols other than the diol suitable for the invention and defined above, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0143] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is free of lower monoalcohols having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms.
[0144] A composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% by weight of ethanol, preferably less than 1% by weight, more particularly less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 0.1% by weight of ethanol, and preferably is free of ethanol.
[0145] In particular, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol, distinct from the diols mentioned previously.
[0146] Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.
[0147] A polyol suitable for the invention may be a compound of alkyl type, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, carrying on the alkyl chain at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.
[0148] The polyols advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0149] Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, glycerol or glycerin, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol or glycerin.
[0150] Preferably, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol, also present as an active ingredient as detailed below.
[0151] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 50% by weight of water, preferably at least 60% by weight of water, and more preferably between 62% and 80% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Gelling agent
[0152] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one gelling agent, in particular at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
[0153] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic gelling agent” means a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
[0154] The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition.
[0155] The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
[0156] The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or naturally derived polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas, and mixtures thereof.
[0157] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or naturally derived polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0158] More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from natural or naturally derived polymeric gelling agents.
[0159] Natural or naturally occurring polymeric gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.
[0160] More precisely, these gelling agents fall into the category of polysaccharides.
[0161] The polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not.
[0162] Preferably, the gelling agent according to the invention is chosen from non-starchy polysaccharides.
[0163] Generally speaking, non-starchy polysaccharides can be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and its derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.
[0164] In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, gums Tragacanth, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin,in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates and their mixtures.
[0165] Preferably, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] In particular, xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide. Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25°C using a Brookfield viscometer, LVT type, at 60 rpm).
[0167] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.
[0168] The gelling agent according to the invention may also be a galactan, in particular chosen from agar or carrageenans. Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides. They are marketed in particular by the company Seppic under the name Solagum®, by the company Gelymar under the name Carragel®, Carralact®, and Carrasol®, by the company Cargill, under the names Satiagel™ and Satiagum™, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta®, Genugel® and Genuvisco®.
[0169] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises in in addition to at least one gelling agent, in particular at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably at least one natural or naturally derived hydrophilic gelling agent, and more preferably chosen from xanthan and / or carrageenan.
[0170] A perfumed composition according to the invention may comprise a content of gelling agent(s), in particular hydrophilic gelling agent(s) ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 3% by weight, preferentially from 0.04% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional assets
[0171] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient.
[0172] In particular, the additional cosmetic active ingredient may be at least one hydrophilic active ingredient.
[0173] The term “hydrophilic active” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active agent capable of forming hydrogen bonds.
[0174] The additional active ingredient(s) may in particular be chosen from vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, humectants such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, and xylitylglucoside, and in particular glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
[0175] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional active ingredient, and preferably further comprises at least glycerol and / or Aloe Vera.
[0176] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 15% by weight of additional active ingredient(s), and preferably from 5% to 12% by weight of additional active ingredient(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0177] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, coloring matters, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), neutralizing agents, chelating agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0178] By "preservative" or "preservative agent" is meant any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable compound which makes it possible to prevent microbial (or microorganism) growth which may occur in cosmetic compositions, from their design, through storage, to their conventional use by consumers. As a preservative, we can notably cite the preservatives described in Cosmetics, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. John Wiley & Sons, Inc. Martin M. Rieger; 5.2 preservatives & table 3, 04 / 12 / 2000, https: / / doi.org / 10.1002 / 0471238961.0315191318090507.a01.
[0179] Examples of preservatives suitable for carrying out the invention that may be cited are parahydroxybenzoic acid esters also called Parabens (in particular methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde releasers such as, for example, imidazolidinyl urea or diazolidinyl urea, chlorhexidine digluconate, sodium benzoate, iodo propynyl butyl carbamate, pentylene glycol, alkyl trimethylammonium bromide such as myristyl-trimethylammonium bromide (CTFA name: Myrtrimonium bromide), dodecyl-trimethylammonium bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof.
[0180] A cosmetic composition according to the invention may have a pH of between 3 and 10, and preferably between 5 and 7. This pH may be adjusted using pH adjusting compounds, in particular acidifying agents and alkalizing agents, conventionally used in the cosmetic field.
[0181] Among the pH adjusters, mention may be made of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. Among the alkalizing agents, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, alkali carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides.
[0182] Among the neutralizing agents, alpha hydroxy acid may be mentioned in particular.
[0183] Among the chelating agents, sodium phytate may be mentioned in particular.
[0184] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0185] A cosmetic composition according to the invention preferably does not contain controversial ingredients, in particular having a negative impact on the environment and / or health.
[0186] Thus, a composition according to the invention is preferably free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and / or the environment, that is to say that it comprises less than 0.01% by weight, or is even free of compounds likely to be harmful to humans and / or the environment. Oily phase
[0187] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise an oily phase.
[0188] When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, the latter preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It can also contain other fatty substances.
[0189] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0190] An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. The oils may be volatile or non-volatile. They may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin are preferred.
[0191] By “non-volatile” is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
[0192] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0193] The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
[0194] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.
[0195] The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
[0196] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0197] Preferably, a composition according to the invention does not comprise an oily phase other than the perfuming substance(s).
[0198] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 0.5% by weight of oils, and preferably is free of oil(s). Destination of the composition
[0199] A composition according to the invention is a perfumed composition, generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.
[0200] Preferably, it is a cosmetic composition.
[0201] The invention applies not only to perfuming products but also to care products, cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, including the scalp, and the lips, containing an odorous substance.
[0202] A composition according to the invention may thus constitute a composition for perfuming, caring for or cosmetically treating keratin materials, and in particular may be in the form of eau fraîche, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, aftershave lotion, care water, silicone or hydrosilicone care oil or even eau de Cologne. It may also be in the form of a perfumed two-phase lotion (eau de toilette phase / hydrocarbon oil phase and / or silicone oil), body milk or shampoo.
[0203] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of eau fraîche, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, or eau de soin, and even more preferably it is an eau de toilette.
[0204] The compositions according to the invention can be packaged in the form of bottles.
[0205] A perfumed composition according to the invention can be diffused using different systems such as sprays, aerosols, piezoelectric devices.
[0206] They can also be applied in the form of fine particles by means of mechanical or propellant gas pressurization devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include pump bottles or “sprays”, aerosol containers comprising a propellant as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. The latter are described in particular in US patents 4,077,441 and US 4,850,517.
[0207] The compositions packaged in aerosol form in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane.
[0208] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is diffused in the form of a spray.
[0209] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed in mass percentage. Measurement and evaluation methods
[0210] The stability of the compositions is evaluated by observing the evolution of the color over time, visually and using a Konica Minolta CM 3600A spectrocolorimeter (L*, a*, b*), and by olfactory evaluation of the evolution of the notes of the perfumed composition.
[0211] In particular, the compositions are poured into 50 mL borosilicate glass hot water bottles and then observed after storage for 2 months, under atmospheric pressure and under different conditions: a) in an oven, at a temperature of 45°C. Storing the compositions for 2 months at 45°C simulates accelerated aging of the product corresponding to a 3-year lifespan; (b) in natural light and at room temperature, namely between 20°C and 25°C, then: b. 1) 16 hours in an ATLAS brand SunTest CPS+ aging device, equipped with a Xenon lamp, an irradiating light source with a spectral distribution close to that of the sun, delivering an energy of 765 W / m2, simulating exposure to neon lights in a store; or b.2) 2 weeks in an oven at a temperature of 45°C, simulating an extreme condition for the perfume;
[0212] c) In the refrigerator, at a temperature of 4°C; d) At room temperature, i.e. between 20°C and 25°C, away from light; e) In an oven, at a temperature of 37°C; f) At room temperature, i.e. between 20°C and 25°C, in natural light.
[0213] The difference in intensity DL between a reference composition and a tested composition after storage under the conditions mentioned above can be calculated from the L*a*b values according to the following formula:
[0214] [Math.l] pi ~ q
[0215] in which Lf is the color intensity of the reference composition and L2* is the color intensity of the tested composition after storage. Example 1
[0216] Compositions 1 to 5, according to the invention, are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 1 below.
[0217] The values are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0218] [Tables 1] Phase Compounds Formula 1 Outside of invention Formula 2 Invention Formula 3 Invention Formula 4 Invention Formula 5 Invention A Microbiologically clean deionized water (INCI Name: Water 'Aqua) qs ,qS' qs qs qs Decolorized aloe vera gel (INCI Name: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice) Aloe ferum inner Leaf gel decolorized IX from kl Company TERRY Laboratories 3 3 3 3 7 Propane-1,2-diol (INCI Name: Propylene Glycol) Radianal 4710 from the Company OLEON 5 5 5 5 5 Preserved organic lemon balm hydrosol (INCI Name: Melissa Officmalis Flower CLeaf / Stem Water) HÏD. DE AiELISSE ARG. BIO RICA CONS COSM from the company ELIXENS 5 5 5 5 5 Glycerin (INCI name: Glycerini REFINED GL YCERINE from the company Rénova 7' 3 3 3 7" Lactic acid (INCI name: Lactic Acid) PURAC HS-90 from the company PURAC or or or or or Sodium benzoate (INCI name: Sodium Beazoate) SODIUM BENZOATE from the company GANESH BENZOPLAST 0.4 - 0.15 0.4 Sodium phytate in aqueous solution (INCI name: Sodium Phytate) Dermofeei PA-3 from the company EEONIK 0,15 OR 5 0.15 Propane-1,3-diol (INCI Name: Propanediol) Aetb wiol-S RSPO MB from the Activori Company 3 3 - - B ParfûmC*)(**) (INCI Name: Fragrance) 7 y 7 7 7 Alfcyl (Cs-Cw 50)50) polyghicoside in 60% buffered aqueous solution (INCI Name: Capryiyi / Capryl Ghicoside) ORAMLXCG 11QL from the Company Seppk 10 5 5 5 5 Mfflio-Capraie de polyglycerol (4 moles) (INCI Name: Polyglycerol-4 Caprate) Tegosofi PC41 from the Company EVONIK - 4 4 4 Decaglyceryi Mouolraie (Ester de polyglycerol-10 and lauric acid) (Name INCI: Polyglyceryl-10 Laurare) DERMOFEEL GlOLde la Société EVONIK - - 5 Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate in 25% aqueous solution (INCI Name: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamates AMISQFT CST2 de la Société AJINOMOTO 1 1 1 - C Xanthane: Polysaccharides: giticose / maBnoseZglucnroaique acid (40 / 30 / 30) (INCI Name: Xaathaa Gum) KELTROL CG-Tck la Société CP KEÉCO - - 0,05 - - Iota type carrageenan (INCI name Catrageenan) Gemtvii'co carrageenan CG 131 from the Company CPKELCO - - or -,
[0219] (*) Fragrance of the woody musky floral type characterized by: - its top notes of peach, coriander, plums, green notes, - its heart notes of peony, lily, freesia, lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose, coffee, and - its base notes such as tonka bean, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, cedar; and / or (**) Citrus-type fragrance characterized by: - its top notes of lime, citron, mint, eucalyptus, and - its heart notes of coconut. Preparation of the compositions
[0220] Mix the compounds of phase A until completely dissolved.
[0221] In phase B, introduce the perfume and the Surfactants, mix well. Gently introduce phase B into phase A to avoid the formation of foam.
[0222] Finally, add phase C, if applicable.
[0223] Leave to swell under magnetic stirring using a magnetic bar.
[0224] Compositions 2 to 5 according to the invention are homogeneous and transparent. They are stable and provide, after application to the skin, a lasting fragrance, hydration and a feeling of softness.
[0225] Composition 1, outside the invention, is less stable, in the sense that it yellows quickly. In addition, the fragrance left on the skin after application is significantly less intense. In addition, comparative composition 1 is significantly more foamy than the other compositions, visually not pleasant for a perfumed composition.
Claims
Claims
1. Aqueous perfumed composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising: a) at least one non-ionic surfactant chosen from C6-Ci0 alkyl polyglucosides; b) at least one additional surfactant, distinct from the non-ionic surfactant a), preferably chosen from non-ionic and / or anionic surfactants; c) at least one perfuming substance; and d) at least one diol; the weight ratio of surfactant(s) a) / perfuming substance(s) c) being between 0.1 and 2, and the composition comprising an ethanol content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, the ethanol content being less than or equal to 1% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition being free of ethanol.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the weight ratio of surfactant(s) a) / perfuming substance(s) c) is between 0.2 and 1.5, and preferably between 0.3 pf 1
4. CL 1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-ionic surfactant chosen from C6-Ci0 alkyl polyglucosides is caprylyl / capryl glucoside.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a content of C6-C10 alkyl polyglucoside(s) ranging from 0.5% to 18% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the additional surfactant is chosen from fatty acid polyglycerol esters containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, acyl-glutamates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from fatty acid polyglycerol esters containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms.
7. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising a content of polyglycerol ester(s) of fatty acid containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular from 1% to 8% by weight. weight, and preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to claim 6, comprising a content of surfactant(s) chosen from acylglutamates ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a content of diol(s) ranging from 2% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 4% to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one diol chosen from propane-1,2-diol, propane-1,3-diol and their mixture, and preferably comprising at least propane-1,2-diol.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 50% by weight of water, preferably at least 60% by weight of water, and more preferably between 62% and 80% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said perfuming substance being chosen from essential oils, perfumes and aromas of synthetic or natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a content of perfuming substance(s) ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 15.0% by weight, more particularly from 1.0% to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 8.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one gelling agent, in particular at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably at least one natural or naturally derived hydrophilic gelling agent, and more preferably chosen from xanthan and / or carrageenan.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least glycerol and / or Aloe Vera.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 90% by weight of natural or naturally occurring compounds, in particular at least 95% by weight, preferably at least 98% by weight, and more preferably at least 99% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. A composition according to any preceding claim, said composition being transparent.