Extract of oak buds of the genus Quercus

Abstract

The present invention relates to an extract of oak buds of the genus Quercus, its process for obtaining and its cosmetic uses.

Description

Title of the invention: Extract of oak buds of the genus Quercus Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of natural extracts as cosmetic active ingredients. The invention relates in particular to an extract of oak buds of the genus Quercus, its process for obtaining and its cosmetic uses.

[0002] State of the art

[0003] The appearance of the face, neck and décolleté is considered by many women both as a symbol of femininity and as an important indicator of age.

[0004] As we age, the appearance of our skin naturally deteriorates, revealing sagging skin, sagging of the skin on our cheeks and neck, thinner, drier and more sensitive skin, and more pronounced wrinkles.

[0005] When the skin exhibits these characteristics related to aging, it is called mature skin. Mature skin has its own characteristics. Indeed, with age and exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays, the skin is damaged, spots appear and the layers of the skin become disorganized.

[0006] In addition, within mature skin, cell renewal and microcirculation are slowed down. The complexion becomes dull, loses its uniformity and the skin is more prone to redness. However, the radiance of the complexion reflects the health of the skin, a dull complexion gives a tired appearance and can accentuate the signs of aging.

[0007] Mature skin needs good hydration to restructure and redensify the skin and improve the radiance of the complexion. However, being thinner and more sensitive, it requires a non-aggressive routine.

[0008] To meet this need, the cosmetics industry is particularly interested in natural extracts with beneficial effects for the skin. Indeed, consumers of cosmetic products are increasingly sensitive to the use of natural extracts, such as products derived from gemmotherapy.

[0009] Gemmotherapy is a subfamily of phytotherapy aimed at the use of tree and plant buds. Gemmotherapy is based in particular on the use of young and fresh plant material. Extracts from buds are mainly used as a food supplement for different properties that depend on the origin of the plant or tree, such as detoxifying properties, slimming, fighting cholesterol, etc.

[0010] Some plant bud extracts are already known for their use cosmetics, for example beech bud extracts.

[0011] However, the cosmetic industry and consumers are still looking new natural extracts with improved anti-aging effects, particularly extracts with effective anti-aging action, particularly on mature skin. Summary of the invention

[0012] To meet this need, the invention proposes a new extract obtained from buds of the genus Quercus comprising in particular polyphenols and sugars.

[0013] Extracts of Fagaceae are already known, for example, patent application FR1870215 describes extracts of liber and / or cambium for cosmetic uses.

[0014] The cambium is a thin layer of meristematic cells located between the wood (secondary xylem) and the phloem. The phloem, or secondary phloem, is made up of sieve tubes, their companion cells, parenchyma and fiber. It is produced by the cambium towards the outside. The phloem and the cambium are an integral part of the tree trunk and are quite distinct from the buds.

[0015] Thus, no extract of buds of the genus Quercus has been described for anti-aging cosmetic effects.

[0016] However, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that an extract of oak buds of the genus Quercus makes it possible to obtain such an anti-aging effect. In particular, said extract makes it possible to redensify, restructure or even revitalize the skin.

[0017] The extract according to the invention is preferably obtained from oak buds of the species Quercus petraea and / or Quercus robur.

[0018] The oak of the species Quercus petraea also called sessile oak is a species of tree of European forests with sub-Atlantic tendency. This species of oak corresponds to trees that can reach up to 40 meters in height, with deciduous foliage and presenting buds of pointed ovoid shape.

[0019] The oak of the species Quercus robur, also called pedunculate oak, is a suboceanic Eurasian tree species. This species of oak corresponds to trees that can reach up to 35 meters in height, with deciduous foliage and presenting buds of globular ovoid shape.

[0020] According to a preferred object, the extract according to the invention comprises polyphenols whose content in the extract is at least 2g / L gallic acid equivalent, measured by the Folin-Ciocalteu method.

[0021] The extract according to the invention also comprises sugars, these preferably represent a content of at least 2g / L glucose equivalent, measured by the Dubois method.

[0022] Finally, the extract according to the invention is preferably in liquid form. Such a form is advantageous in particular for formulating the extract according to the invention within a cosmetic composition so that it can be easily applied by consumers.

[0023] Also, the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% of the extract according to the invention relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] According to another aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract or a composition according to the invention, in particular for an anti-aging effect.

[0025] Finally, the invention also relates to a particular method for obtaining the extract according to the invention comprising in particular the harvesting of oak buds of the genus Quercus, the drying of the buds, the grinding of the buds and digestion in an extraction solvent. Such a method is advantageous for obtaining an extract having high cosmetic effectiveness and which is economical and natural, that is to say non-toxic to humans and / or the environment.

[0026] Other characteristics and advantages will emerge from the detailed description of the invention and from the examples which are purely illustrative and in no way limitative of the scope of the invention. Detailed description of the invention

[0027] Definition

[0028] For the purposes of the invention, the term "extract" means a set of molecules extracted from a raw material X, whether native or resulting from processing (for example by digestion). Thus, for the purposes of the invention, the term "extract of oak of the genus Quercus" means a set of several molecules obtained by an action on the plant raw material, in this case oak of the genus Quercus, in particular buds of oak of the genus Quercus, more preferably of the species Quercus petraea and / or Quercus robur. Preferably, the action making it possible to obtain this set of molecules is an extraction, more particularly a digestion of buds of oak of the genus Quercus.

[0029] For the purposes of the invention, the term “digestion” means the process for extracting all the molecules extracted from a raw material X, in particular the oak bud of the genus Quercus. Said digestion is carried out by heating in a liquid below the boiling point. Preferably, the liquid is chosen from water and a water / glycerin mixture. Pure glycerin has a boiling point of 290°C. A person skilled in the art adapts the heating temperature according to the proportion of water / glycerin in the mixture used for digestion.

[0030] By "buds" in the sense of the invention, we mean a set of very young leaf or floral pieces grouped on a very short axis surrounding a point vegetative. It generally corresponds to an outgrowth appearing on certain parts of plants and giving rise to branches, leaves, flowers and fruits.

[0031] By “cosmetic active ingredient” within the meaning of the invention, we mean a set of molecules having non-therapeutic cosmetic efficacy on healthy skin, in particular an anti-aging effect.

[0032] For the purposes of the invention, the term “mature skin” means a condition of the skin from a certain stage of skin aging. This natural process concerns all skin types (oily, dry). Mature skin is characterized by skin that slackens and shows a loss of volume in different areas of the face (corner of the lips, eyes) or the décolleté. On the surface, this results in the appearance of wrinkles, but also in skin that appears thinner, more fragile, drier and less toned.

[0033] By "strengthening the barrier function of the skin" within the meaning of the invention, is meant strengthening the cohesion of the upper layers of the epidermis in particular by stimulating the formation of tight junctions or by reducing the desquamation of the horny layer. The strengthening of the barrier function of the skin can be measured by quantifying the expression of filaggrin, a structural protein and marker of terminal differentiation of the epidermis.

[0034] By "dermal regeneration" within the meaning of the invention, we mean the stimulation of the synthesis of dermal proteins such as lumican, which structures the dermis.

[0035] By "promoting the organization of the extracellular matrix" within the meaning of the invention is meant the stimulation of the expression of dermatopontin which regulates cell-matrix interactions and assembly of the matrix.

[0036] Extract according to the invention

[0037] The present invention therefore relates to an extract obtained from oak buds of the genus Quercus comprising polyphenols and sugars.

[0038] The raw material at the origin of the extract can be any tree of the genus Quercus, and in particular chosen from the following species: petraea, robur, alba, rubra, cerris, pubescens, pyrenaica, ilex, suber, coccifera, and variabilis. Preferably, it is Quercus petraea and / or Quercus robur.

[0039] Also, the extract according to the invention is preferably obtained from oak buds of the species Quercus petraea and / or Quercus robur, even more preferably from oak buds of the species Quercus petraea and / or Quercus robur from the Bertranges forest in France.

[0040] Particularly preferably, the extract according to the invention is obtained from oak buds of the species Quercus petraea.

[0041] According to a preferred object, the extract according to the invention comprises a polyphenol content of at least 2g / L gallic acid equivalent, measured by the Folin- method. Ciocalteu. The Folin-Ciocalteu method is a method well known to those skilled in the art for measuring total polyphenol content. The total polyphenol content is expressed as gallic acid equivalent, which is proportional to the amount of polyphenols present in the extract. The gallic acid equivalent is calculated in particular by producing a standard range of gallic acid absorbance versus its concentration. The equation obtained from the standard range makes it possible to accurately measure the gallic acid content in the extract according to the invention.

[0042] Advantageously, the extract according to the invention has a high polyphenol content. Such a polyphenol content advantageously allows the extract to have an improved anti-aging effect, more particularly on mature skin.

[0043] According to another preferred subject, the extract according to the invention comprises a sugar content of at least 2g / L glucose equivalent measured by the Dubois method. The Dubois method is a method well known to those skilled in the art for measuring the total sugar content in an extract. The total sugar content is expressed in glucose equivalent which is proportional to the quantity of sugars present in the extract. The glucose equivalent is in particular calculated by producing a standard range of the absorbance of glucose relative to its concentration. The equation obtained from the standard range makes it possible to precisely measure the glucose content in the extract according to the invention.

[0044] According to another preferred subject, the extract according to the invention has an antioxidant activity measured by an ORAC test, of at least 10g / L Trolox equivalent. The measurement of Trolox equivalent is a technique well known to those skilled in the art for measuring the antioxidant activity of an extract. This measurement can be carried out by the ORAC test making it possible to establish the link between the quantity of trapped free radicals and the antioxidant activity of the extract.

[0045] Preferably, the extract according to the invention also exhibits an anti-radical activity of at least 1g / L quercetin equivalent. The anti-radical activity can be measured by a DPPH test, a technique well known to those skilled in the art. Quercetin thus serves as a control for the anti-radical activity of the extract according to the invention.

[0046] Also, the extract according to the invention preferentially exhibits significant antioxidant and anti-radical activity.

[0047] The extract according to the invention can be obtained by any suitable method known to those skilled in the art. However, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the extract according to the invention is an extract obtained according to a method comprising the following steps: a. Harvesting oak buds of the genus Quercus, preferably of the species Quercuspetraea and / or robur. b. Drying the buds obtained in step a) at a temperature between 40 and 120°C. c. Crushing the buds obtained in step b) d. Digestion of the ground material obtained in step c) with a chosen extraction solvent between water, and a mixture of water and glycerin, at a temperature between 40 and 70°C.

[0048] Preferably, the extract according to the invention is capable of being obtained according to said extraction process comprising at least one digestion step lasting between 2 hours and 5 hours.

[0049] Preferably, the oak buds are directly frozen and stored after harvesting at a temperature below -18°C for up to 36 months.

[0050] Thus, the oak buds obtained in step a) are preferably frozen before carrying out step b). Also, the extract according to the invention can be obtained from frozen oak buds of the genus Quercus, preferably of the species Quercuspetraea, followed by a drying step, a step of grinding the dried buds and digestion of the ground material obtained in the previous step with an extraction solvent chosen from water, and a mixture of water and glycerin, at a temperature between 40 and 70°C.

[0051] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the extract according to the invention may be a hydroglycerin extract or an aqueous extract, preferably a hydroglycerin extract. Also, the extract according to the invention is preferably in liquid form (including in pasty or gel form).

[0052] The extract according to the invention can be of any color. After extraction the extract is generally brown in color but can be decolorized and / or recolored by any techniques known to those skilled in the art.

[0053] Method

[0054] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a method for obtaining an extract according to the invention comprising at least the implementation of the following steps: a. Harvesting oak buds of the genus Quercus, b. Drying the buds obtained in step a) at a temperature between 40 and 120°C. c. Crushing the buds obtained in step b), d. Digestion of the ground material obtained in step c) with a chosen extraction solvent between water, and a mixture of water and glycerin, at a temperature between 40 and 70°C.

[0055] Preferably, the harvesting of oak buds according to the invention is a responsible harvest, that is to say that it can be carried out by hand by removing the buds directly on the branch, preserving the development of the tree and respecting the balance of the forest by following the points set out in the Charter of the French Association of Wild Plant Harvesters as well as the WHO guidelines on good agricultural practices and good harvesting practices relating to medicinal plants.

[0056] Preferably, the buds are harvested from oak of the species Quercuspetraea and / or Quercus robur.

[0057] Preferably, the oak buds are frozen directly after harvesting at a temperature below -18°C for up to 36 months.

[0058] Thus, the oak buds obtained in step a) are preferably frozen before carrying out step b).

[0059] Advantageously, freezing the buds ensures good preservation, by limiting the degradation of the active ingredients present in the bud. This also improves the lysis of the walls, membranes, etc., making the active ingredients more easily available during extraction.

[0060] The drying step of step b) is carried out in an oven for a period of between 12 and 48 hours, preferably between 20 hours and 28 hours, more preferably 24 hours.

[0061] When the buds from step a) are frozen, they are placed directly in the oven without a prior defrosting step.

[0062] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the drying of step b) is carried out in an oven at a temperature of 105°C and for 24 hours.

[0063] The buds are then ground. Advantageously, the grinding makes it possible to increase the exchange surface between the extraction solvent from step d) and the oak buds, thus making it possible to increase the content of active ingredients in the extract.

[0064] The extraction solvent in step d) may be water or a mixture of water and glycerin. Preferably, the water / glycerin mixture has a ratio of between 60 / 40 and 40 / 60 by weight, preferably 50 / 50 by weight.

[0065] Preferably, the glycerin is a vegetable glycerin.

[0066] Preferably, the ratio of the ground material obtained in step c) / extraction solvent of step d) is between 1 / 20 and 1 / 5, preferably between 1 / 15 and 1 / 8, even more preferably 1 / 10.

[0067] The digestion of step d) can be carried out for a period of 2 hours to 5 hours, preferably for 3 hours.

[0068] Preferably, the digestion of step d) is carried out with stirring, preferably such stirring is carried out at least once per hour.

[0069] Preferably, the stirring is carried out using a vortex, a mixer pale or by manual overturning

[0070] According to a preferred embodiment, the digestion of step d) is carried out at a temperature between 40 and 70°C, in particular between 45 and 65°C, preferably between 50 and 60°C.

[0071] The digestion of step d) is preferably carried out in a water bath.

[0072] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the digestion of step d) is carried out for 3 hours at a temperature of 60°C.

[0073] Thus, the method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain an extract obtained from oak buds of the genus Quercus comprising polyphenols and sugars.

[0074] The extract according to the invention comprising the cosmetic active ingredient, obtained according to any of the preceding embodiments, can optionally be used as such but is preferentially integrated into a cosmetic composition, that is to say a composition comprising at least the extract and at least one excipient, capable of being applied to the skin and of having a cosmetic effect.

[0075] Advantageously, the liquid form of the extract allows it to be easily incorporated into a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition.

[0076] Composition

[0077] The invention therefore also has as another aspect, a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% of the extract according to the invention by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is presented in all forms, preferably in the form of gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.

[0079] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. Optionally, said composition may also contain one or more other cosmetic active ingredient(s).

[0080] The extract according to the invention exhibits cosmetic effects when used in topical application. These effects are linked to a synergistic effect of the molecules present in the extract.

[0081] In particular, the extract according to the invention is capable of: - to strengthen the skin's barrier function; - to reduce the color and quantity of spots present on the skin; - to prevent the appearance of skin aging; - to improve the regeneration of the dermis; - to promote the organization of the extracellular matrix; - to restructure the dermis; - to regulate the architecture of the matrix; - to intensely revitalize the skin; - to regenerate, lift features and reshape contours; - to firm the skin, by relaunching the good functionality of elastin; - to combat loss of volume and sagging skin, by redensifying the skin and restoring volume to the skin; - visibly reduce the appearance of spots, and prevent the appearance of new spots; - to make the complexion more even and brighter; and - to help preserve the harmonious volumes of the face.

[0082] Particularly preferably, the extract according to the invention is capable of increasing the expression of dermatopontin, lumican, filaggrin or ZAG protein.

[0083] Dermatopontin is an extracellular matrix protein highly expressed in the dermis, whose functions are cell-matrix interactions and matrix assembly. Increased expression thus promotes skin organization and architecture.

[0084] Lumican is an extracellular matrix protein involved in the organization and growth of collagen fibers as well as in the migration of epithelial cells and tissue repair. Increasing its expression thus promotes the organization of the extracellular matrix, the restructuring of the skin layers, and therefore the regeneration of the dermis.

[0085] Filaggrin is a structural protein that is fundamental in the development and strengthening of the epidermal barrier. It is a marker of terminal differentiation of the epidermis. In addition, the production of natural moisturizing factors results from the digestion of this protein. Filaggrin is associated with keratin intermediate filaments and aggregates them within the epidermis. It thus promotes the restructuring of the skin layers, maintains skin hydration and strengthens the skin's barrier function.

[0086] The ZAG protein or AZGP1, is a protein involved in many cellular functions, notably in the degradation of lipids as well as the inhibition of melanin synthesis. It thus promotes the reduction of spots on the skin.

[0087] Use

[0088] Advantageously, the extract according to the invention has anti-aging activity.

[0089] Also, according to a final aspect, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of the extract according to the invention or the composition according to the invention for an anti-aging effect, preferably to regenerate the dermis and / or redensify the skin and / or promote the organization of the extracellular matrix and / or strengthen the barrier function of the skin.

[0090] Advantageously, the extract according to the invention and the composition according to the invention are suitable for use on mature skin.

[0091] Also, the invention relates to the use of the extract according to the invention or the composition according to the invention to significantly increase the expression of at least one protein chosen from dermatopontin, lumican, filaggrin and the ZAG protein.

[0092] More particularly, the extract according to the invention can be used for: - promote epidermal cohesion by increasing the expression of the OCLN1 gene; - promote the strengthening of the basal lamina by increasing the expression of the COLA41 gene; - promote skin hydration by increasing the expression of the AQP1 and / or CASP14 gene; - activate antioxidant defenses by increasing the expression of the GPX1 and / or HM0X1 and / or MSRB2 gene; - promote the regeneration of dermal fibers by increasing the expression of the COL3A1 and / or COLA Al genes; - inhibit skin pigmentation by inhibiting POMC gene expression and / or by increasing AZGP1 gene expression; and - soothe the skin by inhibiting the expression of IL-6 and / or the MMPI gene. Examples

[0093] Example 1 of an extract according to the invention

[0094] The extract of example 1 is obtained by implementing the method according to the invention described below.

[0095] The extraction method comprises the implementation of the following steps: a. Harvesting oak buds of the genus Quercus petraea and freezing said buds at -18°C b. Drying the buds obtained in step a) in an oven at a temperature of 50°C for 48 hours c. Crushing the buds obtained in step b), d. Digestion of the ground material obtained in step c) with a mixture of water and glycerin having a 50 / 50 ratio by weight, at a temperature of 50°C for 5 hours. e. Recovery of an extract obtained from oak buds of the genus Quercus petraea comprising polyphenols and sugars

[0096] The extract obtained by the process according to the invention described above has the following characteristics: - Total sugars = 6.48 gL 1 glucose equivalent - Total polyphenols = 2.93 gL 1 gallic acid equivalent - Total polyphenols / total sugars ratio: 0.45 - ORAC = 33.9 gL 1 Trolox equivalent - Anti-radical activity: 2.7 gL 1 quercetin equivalent.

[0097] Example 2 of an extract according to the invention,

[0098] The extract of example 2 is obtained by implementing the method according to the invention described below.

[0099] The extraction method comprises the implementation of the following steps: a. Responsible harvesting of oak buds of the genus Quercus petraea and freezing of said buds at -18°C b. Drying the buds obtained in step a) in an oven at a temperature of 105°C for 24 hours c. Crushing the buds obtained in step b), d. Digestion of the ground material obtained in step c) with a mixture of water and glycerin having a 50 / 50 ratio by weight, at a temperature of 60°C for 3 hours. e. Recovery of an extract obtained from oak buds of the genus Quercus petraea comprising polyphenols and sugars

[0100] The extract obtained from the process according to the invention described above has the following characteristics: - Total sugars = 4.7 gL 1 glucose equivalent - Total polyphenols = 8.1 gL 1 gallic acid equivalent - Total polyphenols / total sugars ratio: 1.72 - ORAC = 66.1 gL 1 Trolox equivalent - Anti-radical activity: 8.3 gL 1 quercetin equivalent.

[0101] Example 3 of an extract according to the invention,

[0102] The extract of example 3 is obtained by implementing the method according to the invention described below.

[0103] The extraction method comprises the implementation of the following steps: a. Harvesting oak buds of the genus Quercus Robur and freezing said buds at -18°C, b. Drying the buds obtained in step a) in an oven at a temperature of 105°C for 24 hours c. Crushing the buds obtained in step b), d. Digestion of the ground material obtained in step c) with a mixture of water and glycerin having a 50 / 50 ratio by weight, at a temperature of 60°C for 3 hours. e. Recovery of an extract obtained from oak buds of the genus Quercus Robur comprising polyphenols and sugars

[0104] The extract obtained from the process according to the invention described above has the following characteristics: - Total sugars = 4.0 gL 1 glucose equivalent - Total polyphenols = 2.5 gL 1 gallic acid equivalent - Total polyphenols / total sugars ratio: 0.63 - ORAC = 25.4 gL 1 Trolox equivalent - Anti-radical activity: 1.8 gL 1 quercetin equivalent.

[0105] Example 4: Emulsion for the contour of the eyes and lips.

[0106] The emulsion according to Example 4 comprises the following ingredients.

[0107] [Tableauxl] Ingredients % Matter water QSP 100 Phytic acid and water 0 to 0.3% p-anisic acid O to 1% Glycerin 0 to 10% Xanthan gum 0 to 5% Carbomer 0 to 2% Sodium hydroxide and water O to 1% Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0 to 5% Caprylic / capric triglyceride 0 to 5% Dicaprylyl carbonate and tocopherol 0 to 5% o-cymen-5-ol 0 to 0.1% Ethylexyl palmitate and trihy-droxystearin and sodium hyaluronate and glucomannan 0 to 5% Sunflower seed oil and white lupin seed oil and Tocopherol 0 to 5% Ethylhexylglycerin O to 1% Pentylene glycol 0 to 5% Extract according to the invention 0.1 to 5% Glycerin and water and Acetyl te-trapeptide-5 0 to 5% Citric acid 0 to 1% 100,0000

[0108] The composition can be obtained according to the following procedure: • Mixture A: - Heat the water, phytic acid and p-anisic acid to 80°C then homogenize for 15 minutes. - Disperse the xanthan gum in the glycerin and homogenize for 5 minutes. - Add the carbomer and mix for 5 minutes. Neutralize with soda. • Mixture B: - Heat the mixture of sodium strearoyl glutamate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate / tocopherol to 80°C and add the mixture of o-cymen-5-ol, ethylhexyl palmitate / trihydroxystearin / sodium hyaluronate / glucomannan, sunflower seed oil / white lupin seed oil / tocopherol to the mixture just before emulsifying. • Pour mixture B into mixture A and emulsify for 5 minutes. • Cool to 30°C and successively add ethylhexyl glycerin, pentylene glycol, the extract according to the invention and glycerin / acetyl tetrapeptide-5. • Carry out a pH adjustment at the end of formulation with citric acid to obtain a pH between 5 and 5.5.

[0109] Example 5: Cosmetic composition in the form of a restructuring cream

[0110] The composition according to Example 5 comprises the following ingredients. [YES] [Tables2] Ingredients % Material Water QSP 100 Sodium benzoate O to 1% Glycerin 0 to 10% Sodium polyacrylate and water 0 to 5% Glyceryl stearate citrate 0 to 5% Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0 to 5% Cl0-18 triglycerides 0 to 10% Apricot kernel oil 0 to 5% Coco-caprylate / caprate and tocopherol 0 to 10% Dicaprylyl ether and tocopherol 0 to 10% o-cymen-5-ol 0 to 0.1% Sunflower seed oil and white lupin seed oil and Tocopherol 0 to 5% Palmitoyl isoleucine 0 to 5% Glyceryl caprylate O to 1% 1,2-hexanediol 0 to 5% Extract according to the invention 0.1 to 5% Glycerin and sea water 0 to 5% Perfume 0 to 1% Citric Acid 0 to 1% 100,0000

[0112] The composition can be obtained according to the following procedure: • Mixture A: - Heat the water, sodium benzoate and glycerin to 80°C. - Add the sodium polyacrylate and water and mix for 5 minutes. • Mixture B: - Heat the mixture of glyceryl stearate citrate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cl0-18 triglycerides, apricot kernel oil, coco- caprylate / caprate / tocopherol, dicaprylyl ether / tocopherol, o-cymen-5-ol, sunflower seed oil / white lupin seed oil / tocopherol and palmitoyl isoleucine at 80°C. • Pour mixture B into mixture A and emulsify for 5 minutes at 80°C. • Cool to 30°C and successively add glyceryl caprylate, 1,2-hexanediol, extract according to the invention, glycerin / sea water and perfume. • Adjust at the end of formulation with citric acid to obtain a pH between 5 and 5.5.

[0113] Example 6: Cosmetic composition in the form of serum

[0114] The composition according to Example 6 comprises the following ingredients.

[0115] [T ableaux3 ] Ingredients % Material Water QSP 100 Sodium benzoate O to 1% Propanediol 0 to 10% Xanthan gum O to 1% Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0 to 5% Glyceryl stearate citrate 0 to 5% Dicaprylyl ether and tocopherol 0 to 5% Caprylic / capric triglyceride & diacetyl boldine 0 to 5% Tocopherol 0 to 0.3% o-cymen-5-ol 0 to 0.1% Sunflower seed oil and white lupin seed oil and To-copherol 0 to 5% Corn starch 0 to 5% Caprylyl glycol O to 1% 1,2-hexanediol 0 to 5% Maltodextrin and sucrose dilaurate and Sodium cocoyl glutamate and cultivated pea extract 0 to 5% Water and Papain and 1,2-hexanediol and Carbomer and caprylyl glycol and Sodium alginate 0 to 5% Extract according to the invention 0.1 to 5% Perfume 0 to 1% Citric acid 0 to 1% 100,0000

[0116] The composition can be obtained according to the following procedure: • Mixture A: - Heat the water and sodium benzoate to 70°C. - Disperse the xanthan gum in the propanediol and homogenize for 5 minutes • Mixture B: - Heat sodium stearoyl glutamate, glyceryl stearate citrate, di-caprylyl ether / tocopherol to 70°C and add the mixture of caprylic / capric tri-glyceride / diacetyl boldine, tocopherol, o-cymen-5-ol, sunflower seed oil / white lupin seed oil / tocopherol to the mixture just before emulsifying. • Pour mixture B into mixture A and emulsify for 5 minutes. • Cool to 30°C and successively add corn starch, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, maltodextrin / sucrose dilaurate / sodium cocoyl glutamate / cultivated pea extract, aqua / papain / 1,2-hexanediol / carbomer / caprylyl glycol / sodium alginate, glycerin / extract according to the invention and perfume. • Carry out the pH adjustment at the end of formulation with citric acid to target a pH between 5 and 5.5.

[0117] Demonstration of the cosmetic efficacy of the extract according to the invention

[0118] Studies were carried out with the aim of quantifying the effect of an extract according to the invention on markers targeting certain properties of the skin: - structure of the dermis, - barrier function / hydration - anti-pigmentation.

[0119] The extract used in this study corresponds to the extract described in Example 2.

[0120] The operating protocol is as follows.

[0121] The study was conducted on Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (NHEK) representative of the epidermis and on Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts (NHDF) representative of the dermis.

[0122] The experiment was conducted in n=6 under the following conditions: - NHEK / NHDF + Solvent (Water / Glycerin) at 0.1% - NHEK / NHDF + Extract according to the invention at 0.1%

[0123] The cells were seeded in 96-well plates in the appropriate culture medium and incubated for 24 hours at 37°C, 5% CO2. The cells were then treated for 48 hours in the presence of the tested product at a concentration of 0.1%.

[0124] The cells were washed and fixed with formalin. After permeabilization, the cells were incubated with the primary antibodies, revealed with a secondary antibody coupled to Alexa 488.

[0125] The biomarkers analyzed are as follows: - Dermatopontin (DPT gene) on NHDF - Lumican (LUM gene) on NHDF - Filaggrin (FLG gene) on NHEK - ZAG protein, Alpha-2-glycoprotein 1, zinc-binding (AZGP1 gene) on NHEK

[0126] Cell nuclei were labeled with DAPI and labeled proteins were observed and quantified by automated fluorescence microscopy Cellinsight CX7 High-Content Screening Platform (Thermofisher).

[0127] The average fluorescence intensities of each biomarker ± SEM are shown. The values ​​were analyzed and compared to the control.

[0128] The images obtained by fluorescence microscopy, for the most representative, are detailed and provided.

[0129] Statistical analysis was performed with Prism software using a non-parametric Mann-Whitney test. ns>0.05, *<0.05, **<0.01 and ***<0.001

[0130] Results

[0131] Results on the expression of dermatopontin

[0132] The results are presented in the table below.

[0133] [Tables4] Solvent Extract according to the invention Mean fluorescence intensity (AU) 4771000 14030000 SEM 779807 520861 Mean fluorescence intensity relative to solvent (%) 100 294.1 Significance (P-Value) ** 0.0022

[0134] In the presence of the product, the inventors observed a significant increase in Dermatopontin of +194% compared to the solvent.

[0135] Results on the expression of Lumican.

[0136] The results are presented in the table below.

[0137] [Tables5] Solvent Extract according to the invention Mean fluorescence intensity (AU) 2969000 0 46590000 SEM 1307000 468999 Mean fluorescence intensity relative to solvent (%) 100 157 Significance (P-Value) ** 0.0022

[0138] The inventors observed a significant increase in Lumican in the cells treated in the presence of the product, +57% compared to the solvent.

[0139] Results on the expression of Filaggrin.

[0140] The results are presented in the table below.

[0141] [Tableauxô] Solvent Extract according to the invention Mean fluorescence intensity (AU) 42804 73523 SEM 3943 3305 Mean fluorescence intensity relative to solvent (%) 100 171.8 Significance (P-Value) ** 0.0043

[0142] In the presence of the product, the inventors observed a significant increase in Filaggrin compared to solvent (+72%).

[0143] Results on the expression of the ZAG protein.

[0144] The results are presented in the table below.

[0145] [Tables?] Solvent Extract according to the invention Mean fluorescence intensity (AU) 1297000 3155000 SEM 184685 170628 Mean fluorescence intensity relative to solvent (%) 100 243.2 Significance (P-Value) ** 0.0043

[0146] In the presence of the product, the inventors observed a significant increase in the AZGP1 protein compared to the solvent (+143%).

[0147] Conclusion

[0148] These results therefore demonstrate the effectiveness of the extract according to the invention as a cosmetic active ingredient and in particular on the structure of the dermis, the barrier / hydration function and pigmentation.

Claims

Claims

1. Extract obtained from oak buds of the genus Quercus comprising a polyphenol content of at least 2g / L gallic acid equivalent, measured by the Folin-Ciocalteu method and sugars, said extract is obtained according to an extraction process comprising the following steps: a. Harvesting oak buds of the genus Quercus, b. Drying the buds obtained in step a) at a temperature between 40 and 120°C. c. Grinding the buds obtained in step b) d. Digestion of the ground material obtained in step c) with an extraction solvent chosen from water, and a mixture of water and glycerin, at a temperature between 40 and 70°C.

2. Extract according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oak buds are obtained from the species Quercus petraea and / or Quercus robur.

3. Extract according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sugars represent a content of at least 2 g / L glucose equivalent, measured by the Dubois method.

4. Extract according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in liquid form.

5. Extract according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is capable of being obtained according to an extraction process comprising at least one digestion step lasting between 2 hours and 5 hours.

6. Method for obtaining an extract according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the implementation of the following steps: a. Harvesting oak buds of the genus Quercus, b. Drying the buds obtained in step a) at a temperature between 40 and 120°C. c. Grinding the buds obtained in step b), d. Digestion of the ground material obtained in step c) with an extraction solvent chosen from water, and a mixture of water and glycerin, at a temperature between 40 and 70°C.

7. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the buds obtained in step a) are frozen before carrying out step HO

8. DJ. Method according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that the drying of step b) is carried out in an oven for a period of between 12 and 48 hours.

9. Method according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the extraction solvent of step d) is a mixture of water and glycerin having a ratio of between 60 / 40 and 40 / 60 by weight.

10. Method according to one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that the ratio of the ground material obtained in step c) / extraction solvent of step d) is between 1 / 20 and 1 / 5.

11. Method according to one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that the digestion of step d) is carried out for a period of between 2 hours and 5 hours.

12. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said digestion is carried out with stirring, said stirring is carried out at least once per hour.

13. Method according to one of claims 6 to 12, characterized in that the digestion of step d) is carried out at a temperature equal to 60°.

14. Cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.1% of the extract according to one of claims 1 to 5, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is in the form of a gel, emulsion, cream, milk, lotion, serum, essence, oil, wax, stick, powder or encapsulated.

16. Cosmetic use of an extract according to one of claims 1 to 5 or of a composition according to one of claims 14 or 15 for an anti-aging effect.

17. Cosmetic use of an extract according to one of claims 1 to 5 or of a composition according to one of claims 14 or 15 to improve the regeneration of the dermis and / or promote the organization of the extracellular matrix and / or strengthen the barrier function of the skin and / or reduce the synthesis of melanin.