Aqueous cosmetic composition with fatty alcohol, saccharide ether, vegetable wax, non-silicone oil, amylose and / or amylopectin or starch.

Abstract

Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising:(a) at least one linear and saturated C12-C40 fatty alcohol(b) at least one ether of a saturated C8-C40 fatty alcohol and a monosaccharide or a disaccharide or an oligosaccharide(c) at least one vegetable wax based on mono and / or diesters of mono or dihydroxylated fatty alcohols, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified(d) at least one non-silicone oil(e) at least one ingredient consisting essentially of amylose and / or amylopectin, these two compounds being able to be chemically modified or not, preferably at least one chemically modified or not starchProcess for treating cosmetic substrates with this composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Aqueous cosmetic composition with fatty alcohol, saccharide ether, vegetable wax, non-silicone oil, amylose and / or amylopectin or starch.

[0001] Current cosmetics are tending towards the substitution of synthetic fatty substances with fatty substances of natural origin to respond to concerns that have become well established in the minds of consumers. The first concern is a mistrust of chemistry and more particularly petrochemicals, a source of pollution in the public mind. The second concern is the existence of doubts about the safety of certain products. We can mention in this regard the suspicions caused by the use of silicones and certain benzene derivative compounds. The third concern is ecological. There is now a desire to limit the carbon footprint of the compounds used. With this in mind, the use of ingredients obtained from renewable raw materials of plant origin is a growing trend. The use of natural fats does not, however, prevent the maintenance of consumer demands. First of all, the products offered to consumers must be physically and chemically stable over time so that, on the one hand, the final appearance of these products does not change over time and, on the other hand, the performance of these products remains constant. Consumers also want the cosmetic products offered to be easy to use and for their impact upon application to cosmetic substrates such as the skin, lips, and appendages (hair, body hair, nails) to be pleasant and not cause any unpleasant effects such as dryness, stickiness, or roughness. Finally, it is important that the manufacturing of the products concerned can be carried out in complete safety.

[0002] To achieve the aforementioned objectives, the applicant recommends aqueous cosmetic compositions comprising: (a) at least one linear and saturated C12-C40 fatty alcohol (b) at least one ether of at least one saturated C8-C40 fatty alcohol and a monosaccharide, or a disaccharide or an oligosaccharide (c) at least one vegetable wax based on mono and / or diesters of mono or dihydroxylated fatty alcohols, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified (d) at least one non-silicone oil (e) at least one ingredient consisting essentially of amylose and / or amylopectin, these two compounds may or may not be chemically modified, preferably at least one chemically modified or non-chemically modified starch.

[0003] By oligosaccharide we mean oligomers formed from 3 to 10 ose molecules. Wax means a compound that is solid or semi-solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and therefore in a form that does not flow under its own weight. Room temperature means a temperature ranging from 20 to 35°C. Atmospheric pressure means the classic value of 1.013 x 105 Pa. By vegetable wax whose ester component is based on mono and / or diesters, is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound such that all the mono and diesters derived from mono or dihydroxylated fatty alcohols constitute the largest weight portion of the esters of the wax (a), before any possible transesterification or hydrogenation reaction. This vegetable wax, derived directly from plants by fractionation, can possibly be chemically transformed but only by hydrogenation and / or by transesterification (by reaction with an alcohol). Oil is a liquid compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. A liquid is a compound that, on a macroscopic scale, does not have its own shape and cannot be grasped, unlike a solid. It is a fluid that adapts to the shape of the container in which it is placed. When transferred to another container, a liquid still retains its volume. A liquid therefore has its own volume. At rest, the free surface of a liquid is generally flat and horizontal in equilibrium. By water-insoluble is meant a compound whose solubility in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) is less than 1%, better still less than 0.1% by weight. Non-silicone oil means an oily organic compound that does not include Si-O chains in its chemical structure. For the purposes of the invention, the term "aqueous" means a composition containing at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) from 5% to 99.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. By ingredient consisting essentially of a compound 1 and / or a compound 2 we mean that compound 1 or compound 2 or the mixture of compounds 1 and 2 is the majority in the weight composition of the ingredient. At least one is an expression equivalent to the expression one or more. The compositions of the invention make it possible to easily produce stable textures which, once manufactured, are easily applied to cosmetic substrates without unpleasant touch and with a great contribution of softness, without stickiness or greasy effect. In addition, ingredients (a) to (e) can be bio-sourced which reduces the ecological impact of these formulas.

[0004] In the prior art, document CN110946770 A from the company XIAMEN ZEBEN HEALTH MAN CO LTD describes an anti-acne cream with a liquid crystal structure comprising 29 ingredients apart from water which constitutes the supplement ingredient. Among these 29 ingredients, the presence of C16-C18 alcohol, Montanov L which is a mixture of C14-C22 alcohols and C12-C20 alkylglucoside, ARLACEL 165 which is a mixture of glycerol stearate and PEG 10 stearate (solid esters), a silicone oil and xanthan gum is observed. This cream does not contain ingredients (c), ingredients (d), or ingredients (e). These ingredients (c), (d), and (e) are not listed in the document. It should be noted that the liquid crystal structure is described as associated with the presence of the non-ionic emulsifier ARLACEL 165. The aim of this document is to provide stable, effective compositions with low irritant power, particularly solving the problems of thickening, discoloration or whitening on the skin (soaping) and phase separation while moisturizing the skin. Document CN106176360 A of the company GUANGZHOU ZHONGSHANG INVEST HOLDING GROUP CO LTD claims a nectar cream comprising specific plant extracts, five phases A to E including an aqueous phase B comprising hydroxyethylcellulose, a phase B comprising cyclopentasiloxane and di-methicone, isohexadecane, isopropyl myristate, a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside and complementary cetearyl alcohol and shea butter. The purpose of the document is to provide a cream containing the claimed plant extracts, the use of plant extracts being widespread. Shea butter, a product made from triglycerides, is not a vegetable wax whose ester component is based on monoesters and / or diesters. This cream does not contain ingredients (c) or ingredients (e). These ingredients (c) and (e) are never mentioned in the document. Document WO2007 / 113440 A1 from the company SEPPIC claims a composition comprising by mass from 70 to 98% of water or a topically acceptable aqueous solvent and from 2 to 30% of a mixture comprising from 5 to 95% of a linear saturated C16-C24 fatty alcohol (IA), optionally up to 47.5% of a linear saturated C8-C14 fatty alcohol (IB) from 5 to 95% of a compound of formula II (A) which denotes an ether of a linear saturated C16-C24 fatty alcohol and reducing sugar and up to 47.5% of a compound of formula II (B) which denotes an ether of a linear saturated C16-C24 fatty alcohol C16-C24 and reducing sugar with a mass ratio (IA) / (IIA) greater than or equal to 2.5 excluding the composition comprising 95% water 5% of a mixture of 87.2% cetylstearyl alcohol and 0.6% glucose, 12.5% ​​cetearylglucoside. The purpose of this document is to provide emulsifying concentrates for oil-in-water emulsions that allow for easier implementation, particularly by avoiding melting operations. The compositions described constitute concentrates used to manufacture topical compositions for the skin, scalp, hair or mucous membranes or compositions intended to impregnate wipes. In the exemplified compositions there are compositions intended for the impregnation of wipes comprising an oil which is isononyl isononanoate and a synthetic acrylic polymer which is SIMULGEL NS, shower gel compositions comprising a mineral oil, isopropyl myristate and another synthetic acrylic polymer SEPIPLUS 400 and self-tanning compositions without additional fatty substances and with yet another synthetic acrylic polymer SIMULGEL FL formulated in the presence of isohexadecane. This document does not mention the presence of vegetable waxes (c), waxes being even considered harmful. It also does not cite the ingredients (e). Document WO92 / 06678 A1 from the company SEPPIC claims the use of compositions based on fatty alcohols comprising from 60 to 90% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms; from 10 to 40% by weight of an alkylpolysaccharide, preferably an alkylpolysaccharide whose alkyl part is identical to that of the fatty alcohol and optionally from 0.5 to 5% of polysaccharide for the preparation of emulsions. The aim of the invention described is to provide self-emulsifiable compositions without the use of condensation steps with ethylene oxide for its constituents. It is indicated in the description that the emulsions prepared may be, for example, milks or creams, in particular based on vegetable oil or waxes, polar oil, mineral oil and silicone oil. More detailed compositions are provided in the illustrative examples using waxes according to the invention, in particular described in Example 1 (cetylstearyl alcohol / cetearylglucosides / glucose mixture). In Example 3.1 describing a moisturizing cream, octylpalmitate and cetylstearyloctanoate are found as additional fatty substances and a polyacrylamide (SEPIGEL 305) as a thickener. In example 3.3 describing a make-up remover emulsion we find sweet almond oil and also the polyacrylamide SEPIGEL 305. In example 3.4 describing a night cream we find, in addition to octylpalmitate and cetylstearyloctanoate, a silicone oil and in example 5 cetylstearyloctanoate.None of the compositions in these examples contain vegetable waxes (a) or . of ingredients (e) including starches. Document WO95 / 13863 A1 from the company SEPPIC claims a concentrate, useful in particular as a pearlescent agent, comprising (i) from 60 to 90% by weight of a mixture of at least one alkyl glycoside of formula I RO(G)x and at least one alkyl glycoside of formula II R'O(G')x' in which R and R' represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radicals comprising respectively from 8 to 15 and from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, G and G', identical or different, represent a saccharide residue, x and x', identical or different, represent a number between 1 and 10 and (ii) from 10 to 40% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol of formula R1OH, RI being a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These compositions can be used to provide a uniform and stable pearlescent effect. They can be used for the production of numerous pharmaceutical, cosmetic or hygiene products or in detergent compositions, particularly for dishwashing or laundry. The presence of oils in these products, whether of mineral, plant, animal or synthetic origin, is envisaged. Silicone oils such as dimethicone, monoi oil, sweet almond oil, paraffin oil and synthetic triglycerides are specifically mentioned in the description. In example 5 (2-in-1 shower gel) the presence of an oil (dimethicone or copra caprate / caprylate) and an acrylic polymer ACRYSOL 22 is described. In example 6, paraffin oil, glycerol triheptanoate and an acrylic polymer (CARBOMER 941) are found. In example 8 (shampoo with almond oil) sweet almond oil and the acrylic polymer ACRYSOL 22 are incorporated.In example 9 (make-up remover) we find thick paraffin oil and acrylic polymer CARBOMER 941, in example 10 (body milk) glycerol triheptanoate and acrylic polymer SEPIGEL 305, in example 11 (sun milk) sesame oil, lambda carrageenan and acrylic polymer SEPIGEL 305, in example 12 (shampoo) dimethicone 50 mPas. and the cationic hydroxypropylated guar derivative polymer JAGUAR C13S, and finally in example 13 monoi oil, copra caprate / caprylate and the acrylic polymer ACRYSOL 22. Never in this document are compounds (c) or ingredients (e) mentioned. Document WO96 / 37285 A1 from the company SEPPIC claims an emulsifying composition comprising from 10 to 40% by weight of a mixture of alkylpolyglycosides and from 90 to 60% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol of formula R'OH where R' is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, characterized in that the mixture of alkylpolyglycosides comprises at least one alkylpolyglycoside of formula (I) R10(Gl)xl, an alkyl polyglycoside of formula (II) R2O(G2)x2, at least an alkylpolyglycoside of formula (III) R3O(G3)x3, RI, R2 and R3 denoting an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, having respectively 12 to 14, 16 and 18 carbon atoms, Gl, G2 and G3 being the residues of a sugar, xl, x2 and x3 all being between 1 and 5, the weight ratio between the alkylpolyglycosides of formula (I) and the alkylpolyglycosides of formula (II) and (III) being between 0.4 and 5. It is stated that these emulsifying compositions make it possible to obtain emulsions which are stable at low temperatures, for example below -20°C and non-irritant. Many oils that can constitute the oily phase of the emulsion are cited in the description, in particular oils of vegetable origin, oils of animal origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils including many esters and silicone oils. Examples include a sunscreen (example 3) containing dimethicone and cyclomethicone, a cream with vegetable oils (example 4) with jojoba oil, hazelnut oil, sweet almond oil, and various emulsions (example 5) using paraffin oil, cetearyl octanoate, sweet almond oil, or dimethicone as oils. None of these examples mention the presence of a polymeric thickener. Compounds (c) and ingredients (e) are never mentioned in this document. Document WO00 / 56438 A1 from the company SEPPIC claims new stable water-in-oil emulsions characterized in that they contain 5 to 75% by weight of an aqueous phase, 20 to 90% by weight of a fatty phase and 3 to 25% by weight of an emulsifier comprising from 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 10 to 50% by weight and more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight of a mixture in all proportions of an oleyl glycoside and an isostearyl glycoside both having a degree of polymerization of between 1 and 3 and 90 to 10% by weight, preferably 90 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 90 to 60% by weight of a mixture in all proportions of oleyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol and optionally 0 to 10% by weight of a co-emulsifier and 0 to 10% by weight of a stabilizer. The aim of this document is to obtain water-in-oil emulsions that are difficult to obtain with fatty alcohol / alkylpolyglycoside mixtures. The fatty phase may also contain fatty acids, fatty alcohols, waxes of natural or synthetic origin and more generally any fatty substance of vegetable, animal or synthetic origin. In the list of stabilizing agents mentioned as vegetable waxes are carnauba wax and beeswax, the first being actually a vegetable wax while the second is actually an animal wax. In all examples the glycosides illustrated are unsaturated or branched except in comparative examples 1 to 6 and in example 3. In these comparative examples 1 to 6 there are neither compounds (c), nor compounds (d) nor compounds (e). In example 3, which again compares the emulsifying systems, the presence of a fatty phase is mentioned but without further details. In the other examples that follow with the emulsifying systems of the document (not all of which are covered by the present application) we find water-in-oil emulsions such as the W / O baby cream in which paraffin oil, sweet almond oil, castor oil and beeswax which is a wax of animal origin appear. One W / O cream contains squalane, and MONTANE 481 which is a solid emulsifier based on beeswax, one sprayable W / O moisturizing milk contains mineral oil and another W / O cream contains mineral oil and MONTANE 481. None of the examples contain a polymeric thickener or a true vegetable wax. Never in this document are the ingredients (e) mentioned, particularly starches. Document FR2830464 A1 of SEPPIC claims the use of an alkylpolyxyloside or a mixture of alkylpolyxylosides of formula (I) RO(X)p, p denoting a decimal number between 1 and 5, X representing the remainder of the xylose and R representing a branched alkyl radical of formula CH(CnH2n+l)(CmH2m+l)CH2 in which m is an integer between 4 and 12, n is an integer between 6 and 10 and the sum m+n is in the range 10 to 22 and preferably equal to 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 or 22 for the preparation of a homogeneous anhydrous oily composition which is liquid at 25°C. It also claims an anhydrous composition with 1 to 50% by weight of polyxylosides described above and 50 to 99% by weight of an oily phase consisting of one or more oils and optionally one or more waxes.In the description many oils are cited including vegetable oils and butters, oils of animal origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils including many esters and isohexadecane and isododecane. Waxes are not detailed. In example 3 are envisaged mixtures of alkylpolyxylosides with either paraffin oil or caprylic capric triglyceride or isononyl isononanoate. Example 6 (water-dispersible bath oil) uses the first two oils of example 3. Example 4 (water-resistant makeup remover) uses mineral oil, cyclomethicone, cetearyl isononanoate and hazelnut oil. Example 8 of a preparation for impregnating wipes includes mineral oil and sweet almond oil. The examples in these examples do not contain waxes or polymeric thickeners. No vegetable wax (c) and no ingredient (e) is mentioned in this document which in any case only relates to non-aqueous products. Document CN110051575 A of the company GUANGZHOU KEEN BIO- TECHNOLOGY CO LTD claims a fullerene-based sunscreen comprising 28 ingredients including, in addition to fullerene, a C16-C18 alcohol, Montanov 68, xanthan gum, a bio-derived sugar gum, a crosslinked polyacrylate, cyclomethicone, diisopropyl sebacate, and lavender hydrosol. The purpose of this document is to provide a composition with fullerene that blocks excess free radicals and inhibits deep skin damage caused by UV light, while improving sunscreen performance. Montanov 68 contains a mixture of cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside. Diisopropyl sebacate is an oil (ester type) just like cyclomethicone (silicone oil). The sugar-derived organic gum is not defined. Lavender hydrosol can be assumed to be water-based. This document never mentions vegetable waxes (a) or ingredients (e). Document CN109846781 A of GUANGZHOU KEEN BIO-TECHNOLOGY CO LTD claims a meadowsweet sunscreen lotion comprising 25 ingredients including, in addition to meadowsweet extract, Montanov 202 (arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside), isoamyl laurate, xanthan gum, diisopropyl sebacate and rose water. The purpose of this document is to provide a composition with meadowsweet extract that improves communication between skin cells, strengthens and repairs the skin barrier and improves cell resistance to UV, oxidation, free radicals, viruses, other pollutants and aging. Diisopropyl sebacate is an oil just like isoamyl laurate (ester type). This document does not mention vegetable waxes (c) or ingredients (e). Document CN104161679 A of ZHOU YUCUI claims a light moisturizing cream comprising Montanov 202, isononyl isononanoate, Sepigel 305, a preservative, an aromatic essence and water. Isononyl isononanoate is an ester-type oil. Montanov 202 is a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and arachidyl glucoside. Sepigel 305 is a thickening polymer, but of the acrylic type. The purpose of this document is to provide a moisturizer with a refreshing and plumping texture with a softening and shining effect on the skin. Vegetable waxes (c) and ingredients (e) are not mentioned in this document. Document DE 102013223789 Al of the company HENKEL AG and CO KG AA claims the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition containing at least one alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside for the inactivation and / or elimination of dust mites of the skin. In the description, numerous potential additives are cited, including conditioning active ingredients which may be vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffins, synthetic hydrocarbons, ethers having 12 to 36 carbon atoms, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, in particular saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly ethoxylated or propoxylated, various esters including carbonates, waxes including insect waxes, fruit waxes, vegetable waxes, ozokerite, paraffin waxes, lecithins, silicone compounds. Examples 1, 2 and 3 contain Montanov 202 (mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside), capric / caprylic triglycerides, Cetiol CC (dicaprylyl carbonate), acrylic polymers (TEGO CARBOMER 140 and SIMULGEL EPG), a silicone in isododecane (DC 8040), lauryl glucoside (PLANTACARE 1200). The purpose of the document is to provide compositions for combating skin mites. These examples contain triglyceride-based shea butter (CETIOL SB 45) which is not a vegetable wax (a) whose ester component is based on monoesters and / or diesters. The ingredients (e) are never mentioned in this document. Document EPI803435 A2 of the company HENKEL KGAA claims an oil-in-water emulsion containing a) at least one alkyl- and / or alkoxy-substituted dibenzoylmethane derivative, b) at least one water-soluble UV filter selected from phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and phenyldibenzimidazole tetrasulfonic acid and their physiologically tolerable salts and / or esters, c) at least one further UV filter selected from i) polysilicone-15, ii) s-triazine derivatives, iii) at least one inorganic UV-protective pigment, characterized in that the emulsion has lamellar liquid crystalline structures and is free from salicylic acid esters. The compositions according to this document allow for a quality day care that combines effective protection of the skin against premature photoaging with good skin hydration performance by strengthening the skin barrier function, in particular against transepidermal water loss. At the same time, they have a pleasant, non-occlusive and non-sticky feel on the skin and cause a lasting strengthening of the skin barrier function. In the text it is stated that in the presence of at least one primary, linear, saturated fatty alcohol with a chain length of 14-30, preferably 20-40 carbon atoms and combinations of UV filters according to the invention with the simultaneous absence of salicylic acid esters, lamellar liquid crystalline phases are formed. It is stated that the lamellar phases are sensitive to certain compounds which may be present in the compositions such as partially or totally neutralized C6-C30 fatty acids. In the description many optional ingredients are described, including various active ingredients, but the basic ingredients of the emulsions apart from fatty alcohols are not specified. This document contains numerous illustrative examples, some of which involve alkylglucosides. Some contain alkylglucosides combined with fatty alcohols (Montanov 68, Montanov 202, Montanov L) with oils of various types (aryl ester oil, silicone oils), thickening polymers of the carboxylic or xanthan gum type, and sometimes a hydrophobic polymer of starch modified by esterification (Dryflow plus) containing aluminium. In this document no vegetable wax (c) is mentioned. None of the cited published documents of the prior art therefore describe compositions according to the invention.

[0005] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one linear and saturated C12-C40 fatty alcohol (a). They are generally solid or semi-solid compounds at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Compounds (a) are preferably of structure (I) Rl-OH, RI denoting a linear and saturated C12-C40 alkyl radical. Preferred compounds (a) are 1-dodecanol, 1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol, 1-icosanol, 1-docosanol, 1-triacontanol, 1-tetracontanol. Some of these compounds have more trivial names: 1-dodecanol: lauryl alcohol or dodecyl alcohol 1-tetradecanol: myristyl alcohol 1-hexadecanol: cetyl alcohol or palmitic alcohol or cetanol or hexadecyl alcohol 1-octadecanol: stearyl alcohol 1-icosanol: 1-eicosanol or arachidyl alcohol or arachinyl alcohol 1-docosanol: behenyl alcohol 1-triacontanol: myricyl alcohol or melissyl alcohol The compositions of the invention comprise the compounds (a) in a proportion preferably ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even better still from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0006] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one ether (b) of a saturated C8-C40 fatty alcohol and of a monosaccharide or of a disaccharide or of an oligosaccharide. The C8-C40 saturated fatty alcohols from which compounds (b) are derived may be linear or branched. Among these branched fatty alcohols, octyl dodecanol may be mentioned. Preferably, compounds (b) are those of formula (II) (R2-O)xl(S)x2 in which R2 denotes a linear or branched saturated C8-C40 alkyl radical, preferably a linear saturated C12-C40 alkyl radical, S denotes a residue derived from a monosaccharide, xl and x2 represent, independently of each other, a decimal number ranging from 1 to 10, and preferably from 1 to 5, better still from 1 to 3 Monosaccharides or oses or simple sugars are polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones having at least 3 carbon atoms. Preferably S denotes a residue derived from a monosaccharide chosen from erythrose, threose, erythrulose, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, ribulose, xylulose, allose, altose, galactose, glucose, gulose, idose, mannose, talose, fructose, psicose, sorbose, tagatose, fucose, rhamnose, sedo-heptulose, mannoheptulose. Even more preferably S denotes a residue derived from a monosaccharide chosen from xylose, galactose, glucose, mannose, fructose. Better S denotes a residue from glucose. Preferably the fatty alcohol(s) from which compounds (b) are derived are linear, and even more preferably C12-C40. The fatty alcohols from which compounds (b) are derived may correspond to those described as compounds (a). On the other hand, the fatty alcohols constituting the ethers (b) may be identical to or different from the fatty alcohols (a) present in the compositions of the invention. Compounds (b) that may be mentioned include those with the following INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names: C12-C20 Alkyl glucoside, Coco glucoside, Cetearyl glucoside, Arachidyl glucoside, Lauryl glucoside, Oc-tyldodecyl xyloside, Caprylyl / capryl xyloside, Caprylyl / capryl glucoside. Preferred compounds (b) are ethers derived from glucose and fatty alcohols chosen from 1-dodecanol, 1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol, 1-icosanol, 1-docosanol.

[0007] The compositions of the invention comprise the compounds (b) in a proportion ranging from, preferably, 0.01% to 25% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 20% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0008] It should be noted that some suppliers offer raw materials comprising mixtures of compounds (a) and (b). This is particularly the case of the company SEPPIC which offers the following raw materials: MONTANOV L (C14-C22 Alcohols + C12-C20 Alkyl glucoside), MONTANOV 82 (Cetearyl Alcohol + coco glucoside), MONTANOV 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol + Cetearyl glucoside), MONTANOV 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol + Behenyl Alcohol + Arachidyl glucoside).

[0009] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one vegetable wax (c) based on mono and / or diesters of mono or dihydroxylated fatty alcohols, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified. With the exception of a few specific cases, plant waxes are produced and located on the surface of the aerial parts of plants, at the level of their cuticle. Vegetable cuticular waxes are essentially made up of aliphatic compounds that can be divided into two groups. The first group contains the most common compounds such as alkane, ester, acid, primary alcohol, and aldehyde. The second group, on the other hand, contains rarer compounds such as ketones, secondary alcohols, or [3-diketones. Other minor, non-aliphatic elements are also found. These are cyclic or polycyclic compounds grouped under the term triterpenoids and present in the form of alcohol (sterols, a-amyrin, [3-amyrin, lupeol, erythrodiol, etc.) or acids (ursolic, olenolic, etc.). For true vegetable waxes, the esterification of fatty acids takes place with a mono or dihydroxy fatty alcohol, whereas for natural vegetable oils or vegetable butters it is with glycerol, in which case triesters (triglycerides) are formed. Monoesters or diesters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are therefore the predominant elements of the ester fraction of waxes of the invention, which clearly distinguishes them from vegetable butters or oils. The fatty acids of the esters of these waxes are generally saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing 16 to 28 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols of these same esters can be mono or di hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and generally contain 20 to 34 carbon atoms. Preferably the melting point of the waxes of the invention is greater than or equal to 30°C, better still greater than 35°C, even better still greater than 40°C. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the one offered by METTLER under the reference DSC 30. The vegetable waxes (c) are preferably chosen from natural waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax and in particular rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, orange wax, laurel wax, apple wax, jojoba wax, rose wax, sunflower wax, olive wax, lacquer tree fruit bark wax (Rhus Vemiciflua), soy wax, acacia wax, lemon wax, macadamia wax, apricot wax, avocado wax, peach wax, argan wax. As indicated previously, the vegetable waxes of the invention can be hydrogenated. These vegetable waxes, hydrogenated or not, can also be transesterified. In organic chemistry, transesterification is the process of exchanging the organic group R' of an ester RCOO-R' of an ester with the organic group R" from an alcohol R"-OH. This alcohol can be a monohydric alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol. These reactions are often catalyzed by the addition of an acid or base catalyst. Hydrogenation and / or transesterification are the only chemical transformations that the vegetable waxes (c) of the invention can undergo. Apart from the chemical operations mentioned above, obtaining the vegetable waxes (c) of the invention can involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification, filtration, pelletizing or micronization. Preferably, the vegetable wax(es) (c) are chosen from camauba, candelilla, sunflower or rice waxes, hydrogenated or not, transesterified or not. The compositions of the invention comprise vegetable waxes (c) in a proportion preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one non-silicone oil (d). This oil is, let us remember, a liquid compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Preferably the oil (d) is non-arylated. Non-aryl oil means an oil which does not include in its chemical structure any aryl group and in particular any benzene group. The oil(s) (d) are preferably chosen from optionally hydrogenated and / or transesterified vegetable oils and / or compounds (dl) as defined below. The compositions of the invention may comprise, as non-silicone oil (d), at least one vegetable oil which is optionally hydrogenated or transesterified. The only possible chemical modifications for vegetable oils as compounds (d) are therefore modifications by hydrogenation or transesterification, these modifications being able to be total or partial. Apart from possible chemical operations of hydrogenation or transesterification, obtaining these triglycerides can involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification, filtration, pelletizing or micronization. Among the oils of plant origin which can be used in the invention, we can in particular: include sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, copra or coconut oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn germ oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vemonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, raspberry seed oil, rosehip oil, rye oil, sesame oil, rice bran oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, sunflower oil, oat oil, baobab oil, pomegranate oil, plum oil, apple oil, borage oil, lupin oil, pistachio oil, coffee oil. The compositions of the invention may comprise, as non-silicone oil (d), at least one compound (dl). The compounds (dl) are liquid compounds which are insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 13 to 29, better still from 14 to 28, and of formula (III) R3-(O)nl-(CO)n2-(O)n3-R4 R3 and R4 independently denoting a linear or branched saturated alkyl radical containing from 6 to 15 carbon atoms. ni denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n2 denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n3 denotes the value 0 or the value 1 provided that if n2 denotes the value 1 then n3 denotes the value 1 and that if n2 denotes the value 0 then ni and n3 cannot both denote the value 1. In a first variant the compound(s) (dl) are chosen from those for which ni, n2 and n3 all three denote the value 0. The compounds (dl) are then alkanes. They can be linear or branched alkanes. The alkanes (dl) will preferably be chosen from tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane, isoeicosane, isoheneicosane, 2, 6, 10 trimethyldodecane, 2, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8 heptamethylnonane, 2, 6, 10, 14 tetramethylhexadecane. Mixtures containing these alkanes (dl) include those referenced with the following INCI names from the CTFA dictionary: C13-15 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane. C13-14 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane. In a second variant, the compound(s) (dl) are chosen from those for which n1 and n2 both denote the value 0 and n3 denotes the value 1. The compounds (dl) are then liquid dialkyl ethers. They may be linear or branched dialkyl ethers, preferably linear. More preferably R3 and R4 are identical. Examples of ether (dl) include dioctyl ether or dicaprylyl ether. In a third variant, the compound(s) (dl) are chosen from those for which n1 denotes the value 0 and n2 and n3 both denote the value 1. The compounds (dl) are then monoalkyl esters. They may be linear or branched esters. As esters (dl), mention may be made of dodecyl decanoate, dodecyl octanoate, isononanoyl isononanoate, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, R3 and R4 are identical. In an interesting option, for esters R3 and R4 are linear. In a fourth variant, the compound(s) (dl) are chosen from those for which n1, n2 and n3 all denote the value 1. The compounds (dl) are then dialkyl carbonates. They may be linear or branched alkyl carbonates, preferably linear. Dialkyl carbonates (dl) may include dicaprylyl carbonate. According to a preferred mode if n2 and n3 both denote the value 1 then ni also denotes the value 1. Preferably, the compounds (dl) have a flash point greater than or equal to 75°C. Even more preferably, the flash point of the compounds (dl) is greater than or equal to 80°C, better still greater than or equal to 85°C, even better still greater than or equal to 90°C. Flash point (or flammability point or flash point in English) means the temperature from which a combustible body emits sufficient vapors to form, with the ambient air, a gaseous mixture which ignites under the effect of a heat energy source such as a pilot flame, but not sufficiently for combustion to sustain itself (it is then necessary to reach the ignition point). The flash point is therefore lower than the ignition point. According to the invention, the flash point is the PMCC which is measured in a closed cup. The closed cup flash point is measured using a so-called Pensky-Martens device (Closed Cup: reason for the PMCC). A semi-automatic device of this type consists of a cup that can be filled with the liquid whose flash point is to be determined. The cup is then closed. The lid is equipped with a "flash" detection thermocouple whose tip is located above the liquid in the vapors. The device has a heater that allows the temperature to be raised degree by degree. Each time the temperature reaches a higher degree, a flame is immersed in the vapors. If there is ignition, it means that the flash point has been reached; otherwise, the device continues to increase the temperature of the liquid. Preferably, the flash point of the compounds (dl) of the invention is measured according to ASTM D93-13. In a preferred variant of the invention, the compounds (d) are chosen either from the vegetable oils whose only possible chemical modifications are modifications by hydrogenation or transesterification, these modifications being able to be total or partial and / or among the compounds (dl). More preferably, compounds (d) are chosen from compounds (dl). Even more preferably, the compounds (d) are chosen from the compounds (dl) of formula (III) for which ni, n2 and n3 all three denote the value 0, and those for which ni and n2 both denote the value 0 and n3 denote the value 1 and those for which ni, n2 and n3 all three denote the value 1. Better still, the compounds (d) are chosen from the compounds (dl) of formula (III) for which ni, n2 and n3 all three denote the value 0. The compositions of the invention comprise a proportion of compounds (d) preferably ranging from 2% to 80% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one ingredient (e) consisting essentially of amylose and / or amylopectin, these two compounds possibly being chemically modified or not, preferably at least one chemically modified or not starch. Preferably ingredient (e) is a chemically modified or unmodified starch. Starch is a polysaccharide (or polysaccharide). It is a storage molecule for higher plants. Starch is a mixture of two homopolymers, amylose and amylopectin, composed of D-anhydroglucopyranose (AGU) units, both of which are polysaccharides with the general chemical formula (C6H10O5)m. The AGU units are linked together by α(l-4) bonds, and α(l-6) bonds, which cause branches in the structure of the molecule. These two homopolymers differ in their degree of branching and their degree of polymerization: -amylose, a slightly branched molecule with short branches and whose molecular mass can be between 10,000 and 1,000,000 daltons. - amylopectin or isoamylose, a branched molecule with long branches every 24 to 30 glucose units via a(l-6) bonds. Its molecular mass can range from 1,000,000 to 100,000,000 daltons, according to scientific estimates, and its branching level is around 5%. The ratio of amylose to amylopectin depends on the botanical source of the starch. Sometimes, phytoglycogen is also present (between 0 and 20% of the starch), an amylopectin analogue but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues. Starch grains generally appear as semi-crystalline granules in which amylopectin is organized into sheets, creating the crystalline zone, while amylose defines an amorphous zone between the different sheets. Starch can be present in many plant organs such as: - seeds (for example for chestnuts, cereals (wheat, corn, wheat, etc.) and legumes); -roots and in particular in tubers and rhizomes (potato, sweet potato, cassava, etc.; in this case it is called starch; -fruits (bananas, breadfruit) The starches of the invention are preferably chosen from corn, rice, cassava, oat, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches. Starch can be native or can undergo different modifications: - physical or physicochemical modifications: pre-cooking on a cylinder, in extrusion or in an atomization tower, pre-gelatinization (cooking followed by drying), dextrination (action of dry heat) -chemical modifications using chemical reagents other than atmospheric oxygen: crosslinking, substitution (esterification, etherification for example), oxidation (introduction of carboxyl groups), chemical hydrolysis, conversion or enzymatic hydrolysis. These chemical modifications are the same as those that can be undergone by isolated amylose and / or amylopectin. There may of course be at the starch level (e) a mixture of physical or physicochemical modifications and / or a mixture of chemical modifications. Non-limiting examples of chemically modified starches include sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, distarch phosphate, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sodium carboxymethyl starch and sodium starch glycolate. In an even more preferred version of the invention the ingredients, and in particular the starches, are not chemically modified. In another preferred version of the invention, the starches (e) do not contain in their structure elements from columns 3 to 13 of Mendeleev's periodic table of elements which include in particular transition metals and poor metals known as post-transition metals. The compositions of the invention comprise a proportion of ingredients (e) preferably ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0012] The compositions according to the invention may also comprise, as optional ingredients, in addition one or more solid or semi-solid compounds (f) based on triglycerides of plant origin. Triglycerides are triesters of glycerol with carboxylic fatty acids preferably comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated. These compounds (f) may be chosen from butters. Butters are distinguished from oils, and particularly from vegetable oils, by their appearance. They are in solid or semi-solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and generally have a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C. They contain triglycerides with a significant fraction of saturated fatty acids. Preferably, the compounds (f) of the invention are completely natural or may result from a hydrogenation and / or a transesterification, total or partial, of natural triglycerides of plant origin. Thus these compounds (f) can be chosen from oils of plant origin which have undergone only hydrogenation and / or transesterification as chemical transformations, thus modifying their composition and their appearance. This is particularly the case for jojoba butter. This is also the case for the Lipocire A ingredient offered by the GATTEFOSSE company. Apart from possible chemical operations of hydrogenation or transesterification, obtaining these ingredients (f) may involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification, filtration, pelletizing or micronization. It should be noted that transesterified triglycerides can lead to waxy forms which should be distinguished from the vegetable waxes (c) of the invention by their chemical structure. The compounds (f) that can be used in the compositions of the invention may be more particularly chosen from natural plant butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, babassu butter, almond butter, jojoba butter, apricot butter, pistachio butter, argan butter, avocado butter, coconut butter, olive butter, plum butter, oat butter, cupuaçu butter, murumuru butter, apricot butter, hazelnut butter, tucuma butter, lemon butter, rice butter, macadamia butter, jasmine butter, rose butter, more preferably mango butter, jojoba butter, almond butter, and compounds that have only undergone hydrogenation as a chemical transformation, such as jojoba butter. The compositions of the invention preferably comprise a proportion of compounds (f) if present preferably ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the weight total composition.

[0013] The compositions of the invention may however comprise additional fatty substances different from compounds (a), (b), (c), (d) and (f). These additional fatty substances may be non-vegetable waxes. Additional waxes can be hydrocarbon-based and of natural, mineral, animal or synthetic origin. They can be polar or non-polar. Examples of non-polar waxes include paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and polyethylene waxes. The polar waxes are preferably hydrocarbon-based and even more preferably chosen from non-salified saturated fatty acids, synthetic ester waxes comprising at least one ester function and alcohol waxes comprising at least one alcohol function. The unsalified saturated fatty acids are preferably chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid, behenic acid, myristic acid. The additional ester waxes are preferably chosen from esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) different from vegetable waxes (c) such as myristyl myristate or stearyl stearate. They may also be esters of polyols or mono or diglycerides. Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not contain additional apolar waxes. These additional fatty substances different from compounds (a), (b), (c), (d) and (f) may be present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more absorbent powders different from the ingredients (e), in particular starches, insoluble in water and preferably of natural origin. These absorbent powders are powders having a high water absorption capacity, at least equal to 100% of their weight. Even more preferably, this water absorption capacity is greater than or equal to 140% of their weight at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). The water absorption capacity according to the invention can be evaluated by the tea bag technique as mentioned in patent application WO9715367 of the company CAMELOT SUPERABSORBENTS, this via the parameter FS (Free swell liquid retention), with water absorption capacity = 100 x FS. This method consists of inserting a certain quantity of absorbent powder (0.2 g) into a water-permeable tea bag and immersing said bag in water for 10 minutes with stirring. After removing the bag from the aqueous medium, eliminating the water outside the bag, the weighing the bag (W1) allows, after subtraction of a blank (W2) corresponding to a bag without absorbent powder, to determine the value of FS = ((W1-W2) / W3) - 1. In a variant of the invention these absorbent powders have a mineral origin. As absorbent mineral powders it is possible to use in particular silicas or powders rich in silica such as perlite or diatomaceous earths as well as silicates. It will be preferable to use silicates and in particular phyllosilicates. It will be possible to choose talc, kaolinite, attapulgites, sepiolites, smectites including montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite. It will also be possible to use clays containing them such as for example bentonite, kaolin. Preferably, aluminosilicates and compounds containing them will be used as absorbent natural mineral powders according to the invention. In another variant of the invention, these absorbent powders have a plant origin. For example, whole plants or powdered plant parts can be used. Examples include fruit, grain, and vegetable powders such as oat powder made from oat bran or stems. Bamboo powders, especially those made from sap, can also be used. Preferably, these absorbent powders of plant origin will be chosen from polysaccharides other than ingredients (e), in particular starches, and in particular from celluloses. Cellulose is a naturally occurring polymer composed of glucose units linked by a (1-4) beta glycosidic bond. The linear cellulose chains are bundled together as microfibrils that are spirally coiled within plant cell walls. These microfibrils exhibit a high degree of three-dimensional internal bonding, forming a crystalline structure that is insoluble in water and resistant to reagents. There are, however, relatively small segments of the microfibril with weaker internal bonding. These are called amorphous regions. The preferred celluloses of the invention are microcrystalline celluloses. The crystalline region of the cellulose is isolated to produce microcrystalline cellulose. Microcrystalline cellulose is thus partially depolymerized pure cellulose obtained by various processes such as reactive extrusion, enzymatic mediation, mechanical grinding, ultrasonication, steam explosion and acid hydrolysis. Most often, microcrystalline cellulose is prepared from wood pulp: said pulp is cut into small particles which are chemically hydrolyzed, in particular with a mineral acid, then a filtration and drying step takes place. The microcrystalline celluloses of the invention are notably marketed by FMC Biopolymers under the name AVICEL PH 102, PH 103, PH 105, PH 112, PH 113, PH 200, PH 301, PH 302. They are also marketed by J. Rettenmaier & Sôhne GmbH & Co. under the trade name VIVAPUR 12, 14, 101, 102,103, 105 ,112, 113, 200; 301, 302 or VIVAPUR CS 9FM, 400, CS SENSORY 5S, CS SENSORY 15S, CS SENSORY 12 and by SEPPIC under the trade name CEOLUS UF-711, KG802, KG 1000, PH101, PH102 or PHF20JP, by Daito Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd. under the trade name Cellulobeads USF, D5, D10, D30, D50, D100, D200, D500. The particle size of the water-insoluble absorbent powders of the invention and of natural origin preferably ranges from 1 pm to 500 pm, better still from 1 pm to 250 pm, even better still from 2 pm to 100 pm and most preferably from 4 pm to 50 pm. The particle size of the powders can be determined, for example, with a particle size analyzer of the Horiba Cappa 700 type. The cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably comprise from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 15% by weight, even better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of water-insoluble absorbent powders other than ingredients (e).

[0015] The compositions of the invention may also comprise one or more insoluble colored pigments. By insoluble colored pigment we mean a colored species, therefore neither white nor colorless, whose solubility in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) is less than 0.1% by weight. The insoluble colored pigments preferably have a solubility of less than 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than 0.02% by weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The pigments of the invention may be carbon pigments, i.e. containing one or more carbon atoms in their chemical structure. The simplest of these carbon pigments is carbon black, which, excluding impurities, consists solely of carbon atoms. It may be derived from petrochemicals or natural plant sources. Other carbon-based colored pigments are organic molecules. These may include soluble synthetic organic dyes that are insolubilized by the formation of lakes. These lakes are generally metal salts. We can thus cite organic lakes of calcium, barium, strontium, aluminum, titanium such as the aluminum lakes of DC Red 2, DC Red 3, DC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 21, DC Red 22, DC Red 27, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Red 40, DC Blue 1, DC Green 3, DC Orange 4, DC Orange 5, DC Orange 10, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 10, FDC Blue 2, FDC Yellow 5, FDC Yellow 6, FDC Blue 1, FDC Red 40, FDC Green 3, barium lakes / strontium lakes of DC Red 6, DC Red 9, strontium lakes of DC Red 6, potassium lakes of DC Red 6, barium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 27, DC Orange 17, calcium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 27, DC Red 31, DC Red 34, calcium / strontium lakes of DC Red 7, zirconium lakes of DC Red 7, DC Red 9, DC Red 19, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Orange 5, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 7, sodium lakes of DC Red 8, DC Red 10, aluminum / titanium / zirconium lake of DC Red 27. Colored pigments can also be mineral pigments that do not contain carbon atoms. Mineral colored pigments include iron oxides, ochres or earths, lapis lazuli, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, metallic particles (gold, silver), and mica-titaniums. These pigments can optionally be combined with borosilicates. Synthetic organomineral pigments such as nacres coated on the surface with at least one organic colorant or pigment can also be used. In a preferred variant of the invention, the colored pigments used are not of animal origin. In another preferred embodiment, the carbon colored pigments are preferably of plant origin. This includes carbon black. The colored pigments may optionally be used in the compositions of the invention in the form of dispersions, the dispersing agents being able to be solids or liquids. The colored pigments may be present in the compositions of the invention at concentrations ranging from 0.0001% to 35% by weight, better still from 0.0005% by weight to 25% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more additional surfactants chosen from anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, different from the compounds of the invention. The additional anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from fatty acid soaps, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether carboxylates, acyl isethionates, alkyl sulfonates, N acyl lactylates, salts of N acylamino acids such as acyl glutamates. The additional amphoteric surfactants may be chosen in particular from alkyl betaines, amidoalkyl betaines, camphodiacetates. The additional cationic surfactants may in particular be chosen from quaternary ammonium salts such as trialkyl ammonium halides and from quaternary diesters. The additional non-ionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from oxyalkylenated or glycerolated fatty alcohols or amides, fatty acid esters and polyol esters. The additional surfactants may be present in the compositions of the invention at contents ranging from 0.001% to 40% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 30% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0017] The compositions of the invention may also contain one or more extracts of plant origin different from the compounds already mentioned. For the purposes of the present invention, an extract of plant origin means an extract containing one or more active ingredients derived from a plant or a plant secretion. Plant-based extracts can come from all types of plants belonging to the plant kingdom. They can therefore come from cryptogams but more preferably from phanerogams. In particular, they can come from trees, shrubs, green plants, flowering plants, cacti, and grasses. They can come from all parts of the plant and in particular from the roots, stems or trunks, leaves, flowers and fruits. These extracts can be soluble or insoluble in water at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). The concentration of extracts of plant origin other than the compounds mentioned above, in the compositions of the invention, if they are present, preferably varies from 0.001% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 50%, better still from 0.2% to 40%, even better still from 1% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, different from the compounds defined previously. Examples of additives that can be used according to the invention include associative or non-associative, ionic or non-ionic polymers and in particular thickening polymers other than compounds (e), UVA and / or UVB filters, softening agents, solvent agents such as polyols such as diols, triols, linear or branched, humectants, moisturizing agents, anti-soaping agents, vitamins, provitamins, amino acids, perfumes, peptizing agents, preservatives, antioxidant agents, alkalizing or acidifying agents (in particular for regulating the pH of aqueous compositions or for salifying the ingredients), chelating agents, water-soluble coloring agents, anti-wrinkle agents, agents for sensitive skin, anti-pollution agents, anti-imperfection agents and slimming agents. Preferably, the compositions of the invention contain at least one polyol chosen from diols and triols, linear or branched. Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not contain organic compounds comprising one or more silicon atoms in their structure. By organic compound comprising one or more silicon atoms in its structure is meant in particular, within the meaning of the invention, a compound having in its chemical structure at least one R-Si-O- chain, R being a hydrocarbon radical optionally carrying one or more heteroatoms. These organic silicon compounds are in particular silicone compounds and silanes, the latter being reactive compounds leading to the formation of silicone compounds.

[0019] The cosmetic compositions of the invention are aqueous. The compositions of the invention contain at room temperature (20 to 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) from 5% to 99.5% by weight, better still from 10% to 95% by weight, even better still from 20% to 90% by weight and most preferably from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are emulsions. Emulsions can be oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple emulsions. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions. In a preferred variant, the compositions of the invention finally contain, after manufacture, at least one lamellar phase. A lamellar phase is generally made up of bilayers and appears in particular in lyotrophic liquid crystal systems, which are one of the two major classes of liquid crystals, the second being thermotropic liquid crystals. Thermotropic systems change phase depending on temperature, while lyotropes are substances in which the mesophases are induced by the presence of a solvent and depend on both concentration and temperature. The compositions of the invention may be in the form of liquids, optionally thickened, in the form of milks, in the form of more or less thick creams, in the form of solids such as sticks. They can be packaged in bottles including pump bottles, tubes, jars and aerosol devices. The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably topical compositions. By topical is meant a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external bodily substrates. The compositions according to the invention are intended particularly for the treatment of the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows. The compositions of the invention may be used in particular for skin makeup, in particular in foundations, eye shadows or eyeshadows, for lip makeup, in particular in lipsticks or glosses, and for eyelash or eyebrow makeup, in particular in mascaras. They may also be used for skin cleansing, for skin care, in particular for moisturizing products and anti-wrinkle products, anti-blemish products, as well as for sunscreen products and self-tanning products. The compositions of the invention may also be used for nail care. These compositions can also be used for cleaning hair, for coloring or bleaching hair, for curling or straightening hair or for conditioning hair (improving feel and shine). Finally, these compositions can be used for treating scalps and in particular for anti-irritation products, anti-dandruff products, anti-grease or anti-hair loss products. Preferably, the compositions will be used for treating the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows and even more preferably for treating the skin or lips.

[0020] The invention also covers a method for treating the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, and preferably the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, consisting of applying to the substrate concerned a topical cosmetic composition as described above with or without subsequent rinsing. [Examples]

[0021] The examples below illustrate the invention without, however, limiting its scope. Compositions A, B, C described in Table 1 below are emulsions (oil in water) of varying thickness intended to be applied to the skin, particularly for skincare purposes. These compositions are made up of ingredients that provide good safety and a low ecological impact. The manufacture of these compositions is carried out without problems. The application of this composition to the skin is easy, and the feel is pleasant without any greasy or sticky effect. These compositions are stable. It should be noted that they all contain a final lamellar phase after manufacture.

[0022] [Tables 1] INGREDIEN PROVIDED NAME INCI Comoosition Comoosition Comoosition T SEUR A (in g per 100 g) B (in g per 100 g) C (in g per 100 g) MONTANO V202 SEPPIC Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenvl Alcohol 3 3 4 (and) Arachidvl Glucoside MONTANO V 68 SEPPIC Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside 3 3 0.75 NAT RICE BRAN WAX NATURO CHIM Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax 3 3 0.75 LANETTE 22 AMI CHIMIE Behenyl Alcohol 2 2 1 EMOGREEN L19 SEPPIC C15-19 Alkane 9 9 9 CUTINA HVG BASF Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides 3 0 0 CUTINA GMS V AMI CHEMISTRY Glvcervl Stearate 0 3 0 MAKIGREE N SWELL RICE DAITO KASEI Oryza Sativa (Rice) Starch 0.5 0.5 0.5 HYDROLIT SYMRISE Pentvlene Glvcol 1 1 1 E 5 GREEN RHEOCARE Methvlheotvlglvc 3 3 3 MHG NATURAE erin. Tocopherol MB GLYCERIN E PETER CREMER Glycerin 2 2 2 FRANCE SABOMEL- A MB SAFIC ALCAN Pvrus Malus (Apple) Seed Oil (and) Coco-Caorvlate (and) 1 1 3 Caorvlic / Caoric Triglycéride LEUCIDAL ACTIVE Leuconostoc / Rad 1 1 1 LIOUID CONCEPT S ish Root Ferment Filtrate SACRAN 05 BG DAITO KASEI Aphanothece Sacrum Exopoly-saccharides (and) 0.5 0.5 0.5 Butylène Glvcol SODIUM BENZOATE BRENNT AG Sodium Benzoate 0.25 0.25 0.25 SORBATE POTASSIU COOPER Sorbate Potassium 0.15 0.15 0.15 M CITRIC ACID UNIVAR Citric acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 TOCOMIX L70-IP - TOCOMIX J AN DEKKER Tocopherol. He-lianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed 0.1 0.1 0.1 L70 IP CO Oil PARFUM 0.3 0.3 0.3 EAU Aqua OSP 100 OSP 100 OSP 100

Claims

Claims

1. Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one linear and saturated C12-C40 fatty alcohol (b) at least one ether of a saturated C8-C40 fatty alcohol and a monosaccharide or a disaccharide or an oligosaccharide (c) at least one vegetable wax based on mono and / or diesters of mono or dihydroxylated fatty alcohols, optionally hydrogenated and which may or may not be transesterified (d) at least one non-silicone oil (e) at least one ingredient consisting essentially of amylose and / or amylopectin, these two compounds being able to be chemically modified or not, preferably at least one chemically modified starch or not, the composition not containing organic compounds comprising in their structure one or more silicon atoms.

2. Composition according to claim 1 in which the compounds (a) are chosen from 1-dodecanol, 1-tetradecanol, 1-hexadecanol, 1-octadecanol, 1-icosanol, 1-docosanol, 1-tricontanol, 1-tetracontanol.

3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2 in which the compounds (a) are present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even better still from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the fatty alcohol constituting compound (b) is linear and preferably C12-C40.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (b) are chosen from the compounds of formula (II) (R2-O)xl(S)x2 in which R2 denotes a linear or branched saturated C8-C40 alkyl radical, preferably a linear saturated C12-C40 alkyl radical, S denotes a residue derived from a monosaccharide, xl and x2 denote, independently of each other, a decimal number ranging from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, better still from 1 to 3.

6. Composition according to claim 4 in which S represents the residue derived from a monosaccharide chosen from xylose, galactose, glucose, mannose, fructose, better still is a residue derived from glucose.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim. in which the compounds (b) are present in a proportion ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 20% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the vegetable wax(es) (c) are chosen from hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, transesterified or non-hydrogenated carnauba, candelilla, sunflower or rice waxes.

9. Compositions according to any one of the preceding claims in which the vegetable waxes (c) are present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the non-silicone oil(s) (d) are chosen from optionally hydrogenated and / or transesterified vegetable oils, and / or the compounds (dl) which are liquids insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 13 to 29, better still from 14 to 28, and of formula (III) R3-(O)nl-(CO)n2-(O)n3-R4 R3 and R4 denoting, independently of one another, a linear or branched saturated alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 15 carbon atoms, ni denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n2 denotes the value 0 or the value 1 n3 denotes the value 0 or the value 1

11. Composition according to claim 10 in which the compounds (d) are chosen from the compounds (dl) for which n1, n2 and n3 all three denote the value 0, the compounds (dl) then being alkanes preferably chosen from tridecane, tetradecane, pentadecane, hexadecane, heptadecane, octadecane, nonadecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane, isoeicosane, isoheneicosane, 2, 6, 10 trimethyldodecane, 2, 4, 4, 6, 8, 8 heptamethylnonane, 2, 6, 10, 14 tetramethylhexadecane.

12. Composition according to claim 10 in which the compounds (d) are chosen from the compounds (dl) for which n1 and n2 both denote the value 0 and n3 denotes the value 1, the compounds (dl) then being dialkyl ethers and preferably dioctyl ether or di-caprylyl ether.

13. Composition according to claim 10 in which the compounds (d) are chosen from the compounds (dl) for which n1 denotes the value 0 and n2 and n3 both denote the value 1, the compounds (dl) being monoalkyl esters and preferably dodecyl decanoate or dodecyl octanoate or their mixtures.

14. Composition according to claim 10 in which the compounds (d) are chosen from the compounds (dl) for which n1, n2 and n3 all denote the value l, the compounds (dl) then being dialkyl carbonates and preferably dicaprylyl carbonate.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (d) are present in a proportion ranging from 2% to 80% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (e) are chosen from non-chemically modified starches.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the compounds (e) are present in a proportion ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising: -one or more solid or semi-solid compounds (f) based on triglycerides of plant origin preferably present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight, even better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and / or one or more additional fatty substances different from compounds (a), (b), (c), (d) and (f) -preferably present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and / or one or more water-insoluble absorbent powders, preferably of natural origin, different from ingredients (e), preferably present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 15% by weight,even better from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and / or -one or more insoluble colored pigments, preferably present at a concentration ranging from 0.0001% to 35% by weight, better still from 0.0005% to 25% by weight, even better still from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the com-, position.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it ultimately contains at least one lamellar phase.

20. A method of treating the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, preferably the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows and even more preferably the skin and lips, consisting of applying to the substrate to be treated a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 with or without subsequent rinsing.