LIQUID EMULSION COMPRISING ETHYLCELLULOSE, A NATURAL RESIN, A LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL, A POLAR HYDROCARBON OIL AND METHOD FOR USING IT
A liquid cosmetic composition with ethylcellulose and natural resin enhances long-lasting makeup hold and comfort by using natural ingredients, addressing the challenge of reconciling high performance with environmental impact and consumer preferences.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022006825
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-07-05
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-17
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-07-05
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic products that claim long-lasting wear struggle to reconcile high performance with consumer demands for natural ingredients and minimal environmental impact, while maintaining comfort and resistance to external factors like water, sebum, and mechanical friction.
A liquid cosmetic composition comprising ethylcellulose, a natural resin, and specific non-volatile oils, which forms a stable emulsion providing long-lasting makeup hold and comfort, using ethylcellulose for film formation and natural resins for enhanced adhesion and stability.
The composition achieves excellent cosmetic effects with high resistance to external factors and mechanical friction, while being comfortable and compatible with natural ingredients, addressing consumer demands for both performance and sustainability.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: LIQUID EMULSION COMPRISING ETHYLCELLULOSE, A NATURAL RESIN, A LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL, A POLAR HYDROCARBON OIL AND METHOD FOR USING IT
[0001] The subject of the present invention is a liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising ethylcellulose, a natural resin, at least one alcohol oil, at least one particular polar hydrocarbon oil, as well as a process for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials using it.
[0002] Today on the market for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup, many products claim to last all day, resistant to external factors, such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction, etc. These "long-lasting" products for the lips, or for the face, which can be used at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most of the time volatile oils. For example, compositions are known comprising a silicone resin as a coating agent, such as for example trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) or even comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer - INCI name).
[0003] For several years now, consumers have become increasingly demanding about the composition of their cosmetic products and are particularly seeking to use products containing an increasingly high content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients with a minimized environmental impact and / or ingredients that are compatible with numerous packaging options.
[0004] The difficulty, however, remains in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use.
[0005] The aim of the present invention is to propose compositions allowing excellent hold of the expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup of the skin, the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, or even cleaning products, in particular makeup removal products, such as certain micellar waters, makeup remover wipes, for example.
[0006] Furthermore, the present invention aims to provide compositions providing hold to expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of the makeup, associated with an acceptable level of comfort.
[0007] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention which relates to a liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising: - ethylcellulose - at least one natural resin - at least one first non-volatile oil liquid at 25°C chosen from fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26; - at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, liquid at 25°C, different from the first oil and chosen from ester, ether or carbonate oils.
[0008] The present invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, and preferably the lips, consisting of applying the composition according to the invention.
[0009] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.
[0010] In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin designates the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), the body, the hands.
[0011] Makeup and / or skin and / or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.
[0012] By “room temperature” we mean 25°C.
[0013] By “atmospheric pressure” we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1,013.105 Pascals.
[0014] The composition according to the invention is in the form of a liquid emulsion at room temperature.
[0015] By liquid is meant a composition which flows under its own weight after one hour at room temperature. Advantageously, the viscosity of the liquid can be measured according to the following protocol:
[0016] The viscosity measurement is carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a suitable spindle (No. 1 to No. 4), the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).
[0017] Preferably, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention is between 0.005 and 18 Pa.s, preferably between 0.01 and 15 Pa.s.
[0018] The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a direct emulsion, oil in water (the continuous phase of the emulsion is the aqueous phase) or in the form of an inverse emulsion, water in oil (the continuous phase is the lipophilic phase). Preferably the composition is in the form of a direct emulsion.
[0019] The makeup and / or skin and / or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition. ETHYLCELLULOSE
[0020] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least ethylcellulose.
[0021] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain consisting of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction:
[0022] RONa + C2H5C1 ROC2H5 + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical.
[0023] The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to a content of alkoxy groups, in particular ethoxy, of 54.88%.
[0024] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.
[0025] The average molar mass of ethylcellulose is preferably chosen so that the viscosity of a 5% by weight solution in an 80 / 20 mixture (toluene / ethanol) at 25°C ranges from 4 to 300 mPa.s, preferably from 5 to 200 mPa.s, for example from 5 to 150 mPa.s. (ASTM D 914 standard).
[0026] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention may be in powder form.
[0027] For example, it is marketed under the trade names ETHOCEL Standard from Dow Chemicals, including ETHOCEL Standard 7 FP Premium and ETHOCEL Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose of K-type, N-type and T-type, preferably N-type, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.
[0028] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention can also be in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, such as a latex or pseudolatex type dispersion. The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
[0029] Particularly suitable as an aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose is the product marketed by the company FMC Biopolymer under the name “Aquacoat ECD-30”, which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose at a rate of approximately 26.2% by weight in water and stabilized by sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol.
[0030] According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product “Aquacoat ECD”, can be used in a proportion of 10 to 90% by weight, in particular 15 to 60% by weight, preferably 20 to 50% by weight of ethylcellulose dispersion, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] The ethylcellulose content represents more particularly from 4 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. NATURAL RESINS
[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural resin.
[0033] ISO4618:2014(fr) defines a resin as a "generally amorphous macromolecular product, ranging in consistency from solid to liquid." Natural resins are also considered natural glues that have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably on their own without synthetic chemistry.
[0034] Natural resins are almost exclusively of plant origin (fossil or harvested), and are secreted and then exuded from plants for defense, protection and communication roles within their ecosystem. Shellack of animal origin, secreted by the insect Coccus lacca, is an exception.
[0035] The resin used in the present invention is advantageously chosen from resins of plant origin.
[0036] By "natural resin", and in particular "plant resin", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any substance comprising a minimum content of terpene compounds, that is to say at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds on the total weight of the substance (or material) considered, as chemically defined below, said substance being derived directly or indirectly, from the secretion and exudation, mainly by plants (more rarely by animals), of a substance for roles of defense, protection and communication with their ecosystem.
[0037] Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is not soluble in water at room temperature.
[0038] Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol. The resin preferably has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol, better still, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g / mol, and even better still less than or equal to 1,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 1,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector). Thermal properties
[0039] Advantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized by the fact that they have a softening point, which designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating.
[0040] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a softening point (or temperature) in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably 40°C to 90°C.
[0041] The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain degree of softening under standard conditions. It designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating. It can be measured by the ring and ball method (or TB A, ring ball temperature) for resins according to ASTM E284;
[0042] Depending on their class, some of the resins according to the invention may also have a melting temperature, preferably less than 360°C, preferentially less than 190°C, and even more preferentially less than 90°C.
[0043] According to a preferred form of the invention, the resins do not have a melting temperature.
[0044] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of this substance can coexist in equilibrium;
[0045] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably in the range from 0 to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.
[0046] The glass transition temperature (Tg) of a material represents the temperature range across which the material changes from a rubbery state to a glassy, solid (rigid) state.
[0047] The thermal properties, in particular the Tf and Tg of the resins, can be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example using a Perkin Elmer DSC 8000 device, according to:
[0048] - Protocol 1: Determination of melting temperatures Tf and crystallization Te: The raw materials alone or solubilized / dispersed in solvents, stainless steel cups, sweeping from 5°C to 90°C, sweeping speed at 5°C.min-l.
[0049] - Protocol 2: Determination of the glass transition temperature Tg: measurement in 2nd heating. Aluminum cups (40 qL) are used containing the raw materials, a temperature scan between -100°C and 150°C (with isotherms) is carried out in order to observe the glass transition temperature. The temperature ramp applied is 10°C / min for the glass transition temperatures (2 cycles). Botanical definition of resins
[0050] Natural resins of plant or animal origin are classically defined by Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Resins, Synthetic" 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_089.pub2. Natural resins include, in particular, rosins (gum, wood or tall oil rosins from tree and plant exudates; extracted woods; or by-products of papermaking), fossil resins such as amber; extracted resins such as asphaltite; shellacs such as those produced from insect secretions; and their principal derivatives.
[0051] Preferably, the resins of the invention are of plant origin, in particular from plants or trees.
[0052] Fossil resins are resins (hard and semi-hard) collected from the ground at the site of ancient forests that have now disappeared. Some fossil resins have undergone considerable changes in their chemical structure through aging or ripening, which may have taken thousands of years. The transition from fossil to recent resins is variable. They may, for example, include resins that are both found fossilized and collected from living plants. Semi-fossil varieties are collected from the base of the trees that produced them (Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, "Resins, Natural" 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.a23_073) (Techniques de l'Ingénieur, "Résines Naturelles", 1982 Bernard Delmond).
[0053] Harvested resins are recent (tender). They are harvested from plants that are all alive. Depending on their composition, they are subdivided into:
[0054] - oleoresin: natural solution of resin in an essential oil;
[0055] - balm: resin characterized by a significant proportion of benzoic acids and cinnamic acids and their esters;
[0056] - gum: resin composed essentially of polysaccharides;
[0057] - gum resin: mixture of resins and hydrophilic gums;
[0058] - latex: milky composition of organic materials dispersed in a medium aqueous (Engineering Techniques, “Natural Resins”, 1982 Bernard Delmond).
[0059] Among the resins, in particular the recent resins, of the invention, the resins soluble in oils and / or alcohols are preferred over the water-soluble forms such as latexes or gums.
[0060] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins of the invention are harvested resins; particularly interesting according to the invention from an ecological point of view because they are self-regenerating. Preferably, the resins of the invention are recent. Chemical definition of the resins
[0061] Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds whose presence and content define the class of resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acid constituents and polysaccharides (present exclusively in gums).
[0062] The characteristic components of the resins are the terpene compounds which they contain, preferably in a content of at least 30% by weight, based on the weight of resin.
[0063] By "terpene compounds" we mean terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene of general formula (C5H8)n, and their numerous derivatives (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) comprising a terpene structure (Academy of Montpellier. Resins: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html).
[0064] Among the terpene hydrocarbons, we distinguish: monoterpenes of empirical formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes of empirical formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8) and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they have a number of double bonds corresponding to their empirical formula: 3 for C10H16; 5 for C20H32; 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more cycles, i.e. a smaller number of double bonds; for example for C10H16 one cycle and 2 double bonds or 2 cycles and one double bond.
[0065] Advantageously, the resins of the invention contain at least 30% of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, by weight of the total weight of resin or resinous substance used as raw material in the composition according to the invention.
[0066] Monoterpene and sesquiterpene compounds are mostly volatile compounds, constituting for example essential oils. Polyterpene compounds derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4 (such as derivatives of diterpenes and triterpenes) are resinous compounds of a rather solid nature.
[0067] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, i.e. derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4, out of the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Thus, resins having a solid fraction, at room temperature (25°C), are preferred. Advantageously, said resins used according to the invention are not volatile.
[0068] Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resins or resinous substances used in the composition of the invention are predominantly (more than 50% by weight of the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and / or triterpenes.
[0069] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, i.e. derived from terpenes with n less than 4, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%, preferably said resins comprise less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, derived from terpenes with n less than 4, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%. It is thus preferred, for the compositions of the invention, to limit the use of the most volatile resins, because they are less effective in terms of cosmetic film strength.
[0070] A non-exhaustive list of terpene compounds that may be contained in the natural resins of the invention has been established. It lists families of terpene compounds, subdivided according to the characteristic groups (alcohol function, ketone function, acid function, etc.) of each compound (Lists below). Examples of monoterpene compounds
[0071] Advantageously, the monoterpene compound(s) of the resin are chosen from: alpha-pinene, [3-pinene, 3-carene, Camphene, Dipentene, P-Cymene, B-myrcene, a-Phellandrene, Sabinene, a-Thuyene, Limonene, Octyl Ethanoate, Neryl Ethanoate, Bornyl Ethanoate, Geranyl Ethanoate, a-Terpineol, Cineol, Linalool, Bomeol, their derivatives, and their mixtures. Examples of sesquiterpene compounds
[0072] Advantageously, the sesquiterpene compound(s) of the resin are selected among: Alpha-copaene, [3-caryophyllene, [3-bisabolene, [3-gurjunene, alpha-gurjunene, allo-Aromadendrene, [3- Bourbonene, Delta-cadine, Alpha-guanene, Elemene, [3 - Elemene, d - Elemene, a - Copaene, a - Selinene, [3 - Selinene, [3 - Bourbonene, Lindestrène, Furanoeudesma-l,3-diene, a - Cubebene, Farnesol, a- Elemol, Viridiflorol, t- Cadinléne, Elemol, Germacrone Curzerenone, their derivatives, and their mixtures. Examples of diterpenic compounds
[0073] Advantageously, the diterpenic compound(s) of the resin are chosen from: Abietic acid, Pimaric acid, Sandarcopimaric acid, Comunic acid, Levopimaric acid, Palustric acid, Isopimaric acid, Dehydroabietic acid, Neoabietic acid, Agathic acid, Cembrene A, Cembrene C, Isocembrene, Vercilla-4(20),7,11-triene, Incensole, Totarol, Sandaracopimarinol, Cembrenol, their derivatives, and their mixtures. Examples of triterpene compounds
[0074] Advantageously, the triterpene compound(s) of the resin are chosen from:
[0075] 3[3,20(S)-dihydroxydammar-24-ene, dammarenolic acid, dammardienone, hydroxydammarenone (I or II), Dammarenediol I (or II), Dammadienol, 11-keto-[3-boswellic acid (KBA), 11-keto-[3-boswellic acid acetate (AKBA), [3-boswellic acid, ursolic acid, mangiferonic acid, benthamic acid, ursolic aldehyde, α-amyrenone, α-amyrin, β-amyrin, Uvaol, oleanolic acid, oleanonic acid, moronic acid, oleanonic aldehyde, acetyl-lupeolic acid, lupeolic acid, Lupeol
[0076] Betulonal, Hydroxyhopanone, their derivatives, and their mixtures.
[0077] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) used according to the present invention contain at least one diterpene compound, preferably derived from abietic acid, natural or chemically modified.
[0078] According to a second embodiment of the invention, alternative or complementary to the first, the resin(s) used according to the present invention contain at least one triterpene compound, preferably chosen from the following triterpene compounds: alpha-amyrin, Beta-amyrin, alpha-amyrone, beta-amyrone, dammadienone, dammadienol, ursolic aldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanonic aldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanonic acid, oleanolic acid, and mixtures thereof. The total content of triterpene compounds, in particular the content of those preferred above, in the resin used according to the invention is advantageously at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, even more preferably at least less than 30%, and preferably at least 35% by weight of the total weight of the natural resin. Mention may in particular be made of incense resins, such as Protium Heptaphyllum or Shorea Robusta resins, containing such triterpene compounds.
[0079] The chemical composition of a resin can be analyzed by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art such as gas chromatographic analysis GC, chromatographic analysis with flame ionization detection called GC-FID, or GC / MS analysis which consists of the use of a mass spectrometer coupled to a gas chromatograph; preferably by GC-FID. The following article discusses these common methods “Methodological developments in TLC / MALDITOF MS and GC / MS for the analysis of terpenoid compounds present in plant resins”, https: / / tel.archives-ouvertes.fr / tel-01581308. Definition of resins by their origin:
[0080] Advantageously, the natural resin(s) according to the invention are chosen from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) Asphaltite and Gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) Benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (in particular Kauri copal resins, Manila copal resins, West African copals such as Congo, Angola or Cameroon copals, East African copals such as Zanzibar or Madagascar copals, South American copals such as Brazilian or Colombian copals), i) Damars, j) Elemis, k) Incense, 1) Galbanums, m) Labdanums, n) Mastics or Mastics, o) Myrrh, p) Sandarac, q) Shellacs, r) Styrax (Storax), s) Venetian Turpentine (Larch, Turpentine essence), t) Colophony, especially Rosin and Rosinate and Tall oils, v) Resins extracted from vegetable waxes; and mixtures of these resins.
[0081] Preferably, the natural resin(s) used according to the invention are chosen from incense resins (k) and resins extracted from vegetable waxes (v). It is understood that the resin(s) of the invention may be esterified, salified, adducted, modified by phenols, and / or dimerized and further hydrogenated. Frankincense resins (Olibanum)
[0082] Incenses are present in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia and eastern India. Incense resins are recent and derived from the Boswellia carterii tree incense. Amazonian incense resins are also found. The bark is intentionally wounded to obtain a milky extract which is recovered after drying. Preferably, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from incense, in particular from the Amazon.
[0083] Frankincense resins are pale yellow, form irregular rounded or globular beads. They generally contain 20% to 40% by weight (approx. 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). Incenses have an acid number between 30% and 50% (indirect) and are moderately soluble in ethanol in alkaline media.
[0084] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from incense, in particular Amazonian incense resins marketed under the name Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, and incense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea robusta.
[0085] Advantageously, the resin(s) are in a mixture with one or more fatty substances as defined below according to the invention, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples that may be mentioned are Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, tocopherol: 50-75% by weight Shorea Robusta resin, 25-50% by weight Sunflower seed oil) marketed under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea Robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol; 50-70% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed by Kahlresin 6720. Resins extracted from vegetable waxes
[0086] Natural plant waxes as such are not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted / excreted by plants and naturally contain a very low resin content, they contain less than 30% by weight of terpenes on the total weight of wax. For example, Camauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of a Copernica Cerifera palm to prevent the leaves from dehydrating. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia Antisyphilitica native to Northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax consists primarily of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29 to 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20 to 29%), free acids (7 to 9%), and resins (12-14%, primarily triterpene esters).
[0087] Nevertheless, the definition of "natural resins" within the meaning of the present invention also includes resins derived from vegetable waxes, when they have been previously concentrated, isolated or extracted from these waxes, provided that the resinous or terpenic ingredient considered contains the minimum terpene content (30% by weight of the total weight of the ingredient) required by the present invention. Mention may in particular be made of Candelilla resin (100% pure resin extracted from the corresponding wax), with the INCI name: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract, marketed under the name Candelilla Resin El by Japan Natural Products. Document WO2013 / 147113 Al also refers to Carnauba resin, a terpene resin extracted from Carnauba wax, and exhibiting physical properties similar to those of classically described natural resins, such as a softening temperature and not a melting temperature which differentiates resin from wax.
[0088] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract, Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, Shorea Robusta Resin, as well as their mixture, and preferably from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract, Shorea Robusta Resin and their mixtures.
[0089] Advantageously, the resin(s) is(are) present in the composition of the invention in a content within the range of 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. FIRST OIL
[0090] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises, as first non-volatile oil liquid at 25°C, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably mono-alcohols.
[0091] Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. As particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used preferably, mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.
[0092] More particularly, the content of first oil varies from 20 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SECOND OIL
[0093] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second particular non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0094] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).
[0095] The composition according to the invention comprises, as second oil, at least one oil chosen from: * ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-Ci6; * hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; * ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms; * liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; * as well as their mixtures.
[0096] Preferably, the second oil is chosen from: - dicaprylyl ether, - dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, - castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, shea oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter and mixtures thereof; - 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, tri-2-decyl Glyceryl tetradecanoate, capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, C18-36 acid triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, tri-2-decyl glyceryl tetradecanoate, triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, tetraisononanoate pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate; isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl T hydroxy stearate, - polyesters with the following INCI names: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, dimer dilinoleyl dilinoleate, - as well as mixtures thereof.
[0097] Preferably, the second oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether; dicaprylyl carbonate; non-hydroxylated vegetable oils such as, for example, olive oil; castor oil; capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, isocetyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, tridecyl stearate, pentaerythrityl esters such as, in particular, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] The content of second oil varies from 2 to 35% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SOLID HYDROCARBON COMPOUND WITH ESTER FUNCTION
[0099] The composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one hydrocarbon compound which is solid at room temperature, comprising an ester function. For the purposes of the invention, this means that said compound comprises at least one ester function (-COOR).
[0100] By "hydrocarbon compound" is conventionally meant a compound formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing other heteroatoms, such as silicon, fluorine, phosphorus atoms, etc. Advantageously, the solid hydrocarbon compounds used according to the invention contain only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms.
[0101] The solid compound can be chosen from waxes.
[0102] More particularly, the wax is a lipophilic compound which is solid at a temperature above 22°C, preferably above or equal to 25°C, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point in particular above or equal to 22°C, preferably above or equal to 25°C, more particularly above or equal to 30°C, even more particularly above or equal to 45°C. Advantageously, the melting point is less than or equal to 90°C, more particularly less than or equal to 80°C, and preferably less than or equal to 70°C.
[0103] The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”.
[0104] The measurement protocol is as follows: A solid fat sample of approximately 5 mg is placed in a crucible "hermetic aluminum capsule". The sample is subjected to a first temperature rise from 20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 2°C / minute up to 80°C, then left at the isotherm of 100°C for 20 minutes, then cooled from 120°C to -0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2°C / minute. The melting temperature value of the solid fat is the value of the peak of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
[0105] The solid compound can also be chosen from pasty compounds.
[0106] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, and comprising at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting temperature of less than 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound may have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.
[0107] In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The heat of fusion of a pasty fat is the heat consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A pasty fat is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A pasty fat is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the amount of energy required to transform the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
[0108] Among the solid hydrocarbon compounds which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of: * vegetable butters, * fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, * vegetable waxes, * beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax, * esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, * triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, C12-C30, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated, * waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil esterified with fatty alcohols such as lauryl, stearyl, cetyl, behenyl alcohol, * esters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, * polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, C6-C20, * polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, * their mixtures.
[0109] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from:
[0110] * vegetable butters, such as for example mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,
[0111] * totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,
[0112] * waxes of vegetable origin, such as sunflower wax, carnauba wax, wax candelilla, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, and mixtures thereof,
[0113] * beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax,
[0114] * esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid such as the compound with the INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL,
[0115] * triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, possibly mono or poly-hydroxylated, in particular C12-C30, optionally hydrogenated. Examples that may be mentioned include triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), such as, for example, glycerides of saturated fatty acids C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides); triglycerides of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid, optionally hydroxylated; for example, trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Suitable compounds include triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R, Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties.
[0116] * waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil esterified with alcohols fatty acids such as lauryl, stearyl, cetyl, behenyl alcohol. For example, mention may be made of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. Also suitable are waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as, for example, those sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57".
[0117] * esters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent chains linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic waxes whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen. In particular, a C2o-C4o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) may be used as an ester wax, alone or as a mixture, or a stearate C2o-C4O alkyl. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypoly ester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "KESTER WAX K82H" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. Mixtures of esters of C14-C18 carboxylic acids and alcohols can also be used, such as the products "Cetyl Ester Wax 814" from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, "SP Crodamol MS MB AL", "Crodamol MS PA" from the company CRODA, "Miraceti" from the company LASERSON.
[0118] It is also possible to use a glycol and butylene glycol montanate (octacosanoate) such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by the company Clariant.
[0119] * Hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units can vary from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylenate, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswax, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters blend, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower wax, and blends thereof (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters.
[0120] * Polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear dicarboxylic acid or branched in C6-C10 and of diglycerol ester and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, such as in particular the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and of INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. This type of compound is notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.
[0121] * Polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, such as for example: - esters of dimer diol (e.g. dilinoleic alcohol) and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); - esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); - esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).
[0122] Preferably, the solid hydrocarbon compound is chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C30, optionally hydrogenated, preferably C12-C18, such as Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides.
[0123] Advantageously, if the composition comprises them, the content of solid hydrocarbon compound(s) at room temperature is less than 15% by weight, between 0 (limit included) and less than 15% by weight, preferably between 0 and 10% by weight (limit included) relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL OILS Volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oils
[0124] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil, or their mixture.
[0125] By volatile oil is meant an oil having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13,000 Pa, and preferably to 1300 Pa.
[0126] The volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from apolar hydrocarbon oils.
[0127] By "apolar" is meant a hydrocarbon oil consisting of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms (hydrocarbon-type compound).
[0128] By “silicone oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom.
[0129] As regards the volatile hydrocarbon oils, these are chosen more particularly from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example Cn-Ci6, alone or in mixtures, and - their mixtures.
[0130] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones with viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] If the composition comprises it, the content of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) is preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and advantageously the composition does not comprise volatile oil. Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils
[0132] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil.
[0133] As examples, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from paraffin oil, squalane, isoeicosane, non-volatile mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0134] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s). Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s). Silicone oils
[0135] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
[0136] Among the non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones, dimethiconols, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; as well as their mixtures (INCI names).
[0137] According to an embodiment of the present invention, if such oils were present, their content would be less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight, and advantageously less than or equal to 1% by weight, for example. relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is free of it. AQUEOUS PHASE
[0138] The composition according to the invention comprises water.
[0139] More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 15% by weight of water, in particular from 20 to 60% by weight, and in particular from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0140] The composition may also comprise at least one monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably saturated, such as preferably ethanol, isopropanol.
[0141] If the composition comprises it, the monoalcohol content varies between 0 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] The composition may also optionally comprise at least one polyol that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0143] By “polyol” is meant any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (or free hydroxyl groups).
[0144] More particularly, the liquid polyol(s) are chosen from C2-C8, more particularly C2-C6, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon compounds, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, preferably comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Advantageously, the liquid polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isopentyldiol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethylhexyl glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof; even more advantageously, glycerol.
[0145] Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one liquid polyol as described above, its content varies from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0146] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 20% by weight of aqueous phase (water + C1-C5 monoalcohol(s) + liquid polyol(s)), in particular from 20 to 60% by weight, and in particular from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. SURFACTANTS
[0147] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one surfactant, non-ionic or anionic, preferably hydrocarbon-based.
[0148] A person skilled in the art, using his general knowledge, is able to determine whether it is necessary to use one or more surfactants.
[0149] As an indication, if the composition includes it, the content of surfactant(s) represents from 0.01 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Nonionic surfactants
[0150] The choice of surfactant(s) depends on the nature of the desired emulsion.
[0151] In particular, if an oil-in-water emulsion is envisaged, the surfactant(s) will preferably be at least chosen from non-ionic, hydrocarbon or silicone surfactants, having an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value within the meaning of GRIFFIN as defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256) greater than or equal to 8, and preferably at least from hydrocarbon surfactants.
[0152] If a water-in-oil emulsion is also envisaged, then the surfactant(s) will preferably be chosen from non-ionic surfactants having an HLB value (as defined above) of less than 8, hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based, or mixtures thereof.
[0153] The non-ionic surfactant(s) may be chosen in particular from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, (poly)oxyalkylenated ethers, (poly)oxyalkylenated esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitan esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitan ethers, alkyl(poly)glucosides, sugar esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or non-(poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, and mixtures thereof. By "oxyalkylenated" is meant an oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated unit, the number of units varying between 1 and 200.
[0154] Among the (poly)oxyethylenated alcohols, we can cite:
[0155] * Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50, in particular chosen from Ceteth-2, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, Ceteth-10, ceteth-15, Ceteth-20, ceteth-23, Ceteth-25, Ceteth-40, Ceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4, laureth-7, Laureth-12, Laureth-23, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, oleth-7, Oleth-10, oleth-12, Oleth-20, Oleth-25, oleth-50, Deceth-3, Deceth-5, Beheneth-10, beheneth 100, Steareth-2, Steareth-6, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-40, Steareth-100, Ceteareth-7, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3,C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, Coceth-7, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7, trideceth-10, Trideceth-12, phytosterol 30 EO, and their mixtures.
[0156] * Polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols of the type: R-(OC(CH3)H-CH2)o- (O-CH2-CH2)p-OH; R representing a C4-C30 alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50. Preferably, compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose INCI name is as follows: PPG-26-buteth-26, PPG-12-buteth-16, PPG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.
[0157] Among the (poly)oxyalkylenated esters, the following are particularly suitable: esters of polyethylene glycol and acid of the type: R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)n-OH or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R or R-CO-(O-CH2-CH2)qOR or RO-(CH(CH3)-(CH2))p-(O-CH2-CH2)qO-CO-R In which R represent, identical or not, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, in C2-C20; n, p, q, average whole numbers, identical or not, varying from 2 to 150.
[0158] They may in particular be chosen from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-9 cococate, PEG-10 oleate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propylene glycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0159] As sorbitan esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or not, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100, more particularly from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units, as well as Polysorbate are preferably used.
[0160] As regards the sorbitan esters, mention may be made of mono-, or polyesters, preferably mono-, di- or triesters, of sorbitan, comprising at least one C12-C24 group, saturated or unsaturated. Among the suitable sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan triloleate, sorbitan palmitate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan triloleate, sorbitan palmitate, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0161] Among the Polysorbate (INCI name), we can particularly mention the compounds with the following INCI names: Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-85, and mixtures thereof. Esters include PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate.
[0162] As regards the alkyl(poly)glucosides, those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units are preferably used. The alkylpolyglucosides may be chosen, for example, from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cn-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by SEPPIC; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110® by SEPPIC; laurylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis; and mixtures thereof.
[0163] As sugar esters, mention may be made, for example, of glucose derivatives such as, in particular, polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20. Also suitable are polyoxyethylenated sugar esters, such as, for example, the compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, as well as mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of sucrose esters such as those chosen from sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate, sucrose tristearate, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the sucrose ester is selected from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.
[0164] As (poly)glycerok ester we can cite:
[0165] * Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or acid polymer(s) carboxylic acid(s) optionally hydroxylated in C6-C40, more particularly in C8-C30, or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylenated units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated units, even more particularly between 2 and 80 oxyethylenated units. These compounds are more particularly found in the form of mono-, di- or triglycerides, alone or in mixtures. Examples of such esters include PEG-6 Caprylic / Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OU, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OU, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides, Hydrogenated Palm / Palm Kernel OU PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polyoxyethylene Palm Glycerides (200 EO) and Polyoxyethylene Coconut Glycerides (7 EO), and mixtures thereof.
[0166] * Polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol and acid(s) units carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and derived from vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compounds Y are chosen from non-ionic polyglycerolated esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or derived from vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acids may further comprise 1 to 3 carboxylic groups, and preferably are monocarboxylic acids. Polyglycerolated compounds are more particularly mono-, di- or triesters.More particularly, the compounds Y are chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and derived from vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compounds Y are chosen from nonionic polyglycerolated esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or derived from vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acids may further comprise 1 to 3 carboxylic groups, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids. The polyglycerolated compounds are more particularly mono-, di- or triesters.As examples of compounds Y, the following compounds can be cited, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostcaratc. Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diitrate / Stearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Poylglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate / Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 trilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, almond oil esters. apricot kernel oil polyglycerolated comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0167] As alkyl- and polyalkyl- ethers of glycerol, (poly)oxyethylenated or not, those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 to 30 are preferably used. By way of example, Nikkol Batyl alcohol 100, Nikkol chimyl alcohol 100 may be mentioned.
[0168] More particularly, the surfactant(s) are chosen from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, mono- or polyglycerolated non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Anionic surfactants
[0169] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional anionic surfactant, more particularly hydrocarbon-based.
[0170] The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of Cio-C3O fatty acids. More particularly, these compounds are in the form of alkali metal salts such as sodium, potassium, or amine or alkanolamine, in particular C2-C4, primary or secondary. These compounds generally comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 20 carbon atoms in their longest hydrocarbon chain, and are saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic. They may also comprise up to 20 oxyalkylenated units, preferably up to 15 units (in particular oxyethylenated). COLORANT
[0171] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one coloring material, in particular chosen from synthetic, natural or naturally derived coloring materials.
[0172] The coloring matter may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Pigments
[0173] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.
[0174] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0175] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. We can cite, among others the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.
[0176] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.
[0177] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.
[0178] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0179] D
[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.
[0180] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.
[0181] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
[0182] By “mother-of-pearl” is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.
[0183] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.
[0184] Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.
[0185] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.
[0186] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.
[0187] For example, this material may be chosen from metallic sheen particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.
[0188] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
[0189] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
[0190] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.
[0191] The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
[0192] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
[0193] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
[0194] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
[0195] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.
[0196] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight. % by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment.
[0197] The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
[0198] The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is notably described in US patent 4,578,266.
[0199] The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
[0200] When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
[0201] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0202] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
[0203] According to another particular embodiment, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.
[0204] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0205] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
[0206] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.
[0207] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0208] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0209] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
[0210] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).
[0211] The pigment(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention, at contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the coloring matter content is less than 50% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, and even better still from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes
[0212] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material is a water-soluble dye or a liposoluble dye.
[0213] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.
[0214] For the purposes of the invention, the term “liposoluble coloring matter” means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.
[0215] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.
[0216] Among the natural water-soluble colorants, mention may be made of anthocyanins.
[0217]
[00239] As liposoluble colorants suitable for the invention, the following may in particular be mentioned: liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, Sudan Brown can be cited.
[0218] As an illustration of natural fat-soluble colorants, we can particularly mention carotenes such as [3-carotene, a-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.
[0219] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention, at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. THICKENERS
[0220] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase thickener and / or at least one lipophilic phase thickener. Water-based thickeners
[0221] As examples of aqueous phase thickening polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:
[0222] * homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names “VERSICOL F” or “VERSICOL K” by the company ALLIED COLLOID, “UTRAHOLD 8” by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, and salts, in particular sodium, of polyacrylic acid (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride) sold under the name “LUVIGEL EM” by the company,
[0223] * copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names “RETEN” by the company HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name “DARVAN N°7” by the company VANDERBILT, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name “HYDAGEN F” by the company HENKEL,
[0224] * polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, particularly with acrylate / Cio-C3O-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products marketed by the company Lubrizol under the trade names PEMULEN TRI, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL EDT 2020 and even more preferably PEMULEN TR-2;
[0225] * partially neutralized polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLARIANT,
[0226] * acrylamido propane sulfonic / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL type or SIMULGEL marketed by the company SEPPIC,
[0227] * acrylamido propane sulfonic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymers polyoxyethylenes (crosslinked or not) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type marketed by the company CLARIANT,
[0228] * copolymers of hydroxyalkyl acrylic acid or their salts and monomers acryloyldimethyl taurate of the type of SEPINOV EMT 10 products marketed by the company SEPPIC;
[0229] * and their mixtures.
[0230] As other examples of aqueous phase thickening polymers, mention may be made of:
[0231] * anionic, cationic, amphoteric or chitin or chitosan polymers non-ionic;
[0232] * cellulose polymers, such as alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose;
[0233] * vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, vinyl acetate and crotonic acid copolymer, vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol;
[0234] * polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as galactomannans and their derivatives, such as Konjac gum, Gellan gum, Carob gum, Fennugreek gum, Karaya gum, Tragacanth gum, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), guar hydroxypropyl tri-methyl ammonium chloride, xanthan gum and its derivatives;
[0235] * alginates and carrageenans;
[0236] * and their mixtures.
[0237] If the composition comprises it, the content of aqueous phase thickener varies from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and more advantageously from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic phase thickeners
[0238] As hydrophobic phase thickeners, mention may be made in particular of hydrophobic mineral thickeners such as modified clays, modified silicas, or mixtures thereof. Hydrophobic modified clays
[0239] Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.
[0240] Examples of such products include clays from the smectite family, as well as from the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families. These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin.
[0241] Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays, such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
[0242] These clays are modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
[0243] Mention may thus be made of hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more precisely by a halide, such as a chloride, of ammonium of a C10 to C22 fatty acid, comprising or not comprising an aromatic group; such as hectorite modified by a halide, preferably a chloride, of distearyl dimethyl ammonium (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; stearalkonium Hectorites such as in particular the product Bentone 27 V.
[0244] Mention may also be made of quatemium-18 bentonites such as those sold, among others, under the names Bentone 34 marketed by the company Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by the company United catalyst by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quatemium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay
[0245] According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular by halides, in particular chlorides, of benzyldimethyl ammonium stearate, or of distearyl dimethyl ammonium. Modified silicas
[0246] Mention may also be made of hydrophobic surface-treated fumed silica, the particle size of which is advantageously less than 1 μm. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, silanol groups can be substituted by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be:
[0247] * trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are, for example, marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company CABOT,
[0248] * dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are in particular obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane, for example hexamethyldisiloxane, or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are, for example, marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company CABOT.
[0249] The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.
[0250] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least silica aerogel particles.
[0251] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0252] They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the different drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0253] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles suitable for implementing the invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.
[0254] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.
[0255] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0256] The sizes of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0257] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Svallant of 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably of 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and better still of 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0258] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name silica silylate).
[0259] Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.
[0260] Particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will preferably be used.
[0261] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0262] Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the company Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.
[0263] Preferably, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0264] Preferably, the mineral thickeners are chosen from organophilic clays, in particular modified hectorites; hydrophobically treated fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogels, or mixtures thereof, and even more precisely at least one organophilic modified clay or at least one hydrophobic modified silica, in particular an organophilic modified clay.
[0265] More particularly, if the composition contains it, the content of hydrophobic phase thickener(s) represents from 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, expressed as active material, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0266] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
[0267] The expressions “between... and...” and “ranging from... to...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.
[0268] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.
[0269] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.
[0270] Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass of raw materials.
[0271] Raw materials are named by their chemical name or their INCI name. EXAMPLES
[0272] In the following table, the quantity of each compound is given in % weight / weight of the composition (the percentages are expressed in weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated).
[0273] [Tables 1] INCI US COMPOSITI ON A COMP ARATIVE COMPOSITI ON1 INVENTION Gellan Gum (Kelcogel CG LA- CP Kelco) 0.2 0.2 Sucrose Laurate (Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods) 1.5 1.5 Water 2.0 2.0 Red 33 0.04 0.04 Red 7 0.5 0.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 Ethylcellulose (aqueous dispersion; 26.2% ethylcellulose; A QUACOAT ECD-30 - FMC Biopolymer) 39.0 36.5 Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 PHARM, AS HLAND) 4.8 4.8 Yellow 6 0.22 0.22 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 8.0 7.44 Octyldodecanol 34.04 33.1 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides (Softisan 100, C remer Oleo) 7.0 6.5 Ethanol 2.0 2.0 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract (Candellila Resin El - Japan Natural Products) - 4.5 Operating mode
[0274] On the one hand, the capric / caprylic triglyceride, Softisan 100 and part of the octyldodecanol are mixed at 55°C with stirring, then this mixture is added to the Aquacoat ECD at 55°C, with stirring. Add the gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes. Finally, add the sucrose laurate and continue stirring for 45 minutes. On the other hand, the remaining octyldodecanol is mixed with the ethylcellulose N7 at 55°C, with stirring until a gel is obtained. In the case where the composition includes candelilla resin, the remaining octyldodecanol and the ethylcellulose N7 are mixed with stirring at 90°C, then the candelilla resin is introduced, still with stirring, until a homogeneous product is obtained. This mixture is cooled to 60°C. The resulting gel is added to the mixture obtained previously, with stirring, for 30 minutes at 55°C (1300 rpm). The coloring matters are then introduced, with stirring, at 45°C, then the preservatives. The mixture is left to cool and packaged in a gloss-type bottle (hot water bottle with a flocked applicator - reference 14030, Geka GmbH).
[0275] Protocols for evaluating resistance to transfer: 1. Sample preparation
[0276] The composition is applied to the inside of the forearm by applying 4 layers without re-immersing the applicator in the hot water bottle, over a surface area of 2cm x 2cm. We repeat this operation so as to have four made-up samples (one control sample, 3 samples to test: water, oil, transfer). Let the product dry for 30 minutes.
[0277] 2, Water resistance is evaluated by passing once over the surface of the first sample, a cotton ball soaked in 1 ml of water. The color of the deposit thus treated and the control deposit are compared.
[0278] 3. Oil resistance is evaluated by passing a cotton pad soaked in 0.5 ml once of olive oil (applied force similar to that of water resistance) on the surface of the second sample. The color of the deposit thus treated and the control deposit are compared.
[0279] 4, Transfer resistance is assessed by pressing a tissue onto the third sample and observing the amount of lipstick deposited on the handkerchief. Evaluation of compositions
[0280] In each case, a homogeneous, stable liquid composition is obtained.
[0281] Each composition is easily applied to the lips, in a thin, fresh deposit, which does not migrate and is very slightly sticky.
[0282] The compositions do not transfer.
[0283] It is further noted that the water and oil resistance of the composition according to the invention are significantly improved compared to those of the comparative composition. Example 2
[0284] In the following table, the quantity of each compound is given in % weight / weight of the composition (the percentages are expressed in weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated).
[0285] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI name, chemical name) Composition 2 Ethylcellulose (aqueous dispersion with 26.2% ethylcellulose; Aquacoa t ECD-30 - FMC Biopolymer) 40 Octyldodecanol 31 Gellan gum (Kelcogel CG LA- CP Kelco) 0.15 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract (Candellila Resin El - Japan Natural Products) 2 Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate (Estemol N-01- Nisshin Oillio) 20.85 Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 Water 4.90 Red 33 0.10 Operating mode
[0286] Neopentyl glycol dicaprate, octyldodecanol, cetyl alcohol, candelilla resin are mixed at 80°C with stirring, then this mixture is cooled to 55°C and added to the Aquacoat ECD at 55°C, with stirring. Add the gellan gum and continue stirring for 30 minutes. The coloring matters are then introduced, while stirring. This mixture is cooled to 30°C then the preservatives are added. The mixture is left to cool and packaged in a gloss-type bottle (bottle with a flocked applicator - reference 14030, Geka GmbH). Evaluation of the composition
[0287] A homogeneous, stable liquid composition is obtained.
[0288] It is easily applied to the lips, in a thin, fresh deposit, with very little stickiness. The deposit does not migrate.
[0289] It is also noted that the deposit does not transfer and that the water and oil resistance of the composition is very good (protocols of example 1).
[0290] In the following table, the quantity of each compound is given in % weight / weight of the composition (the percentages are expressed in weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated).
[0291] [Tables3] Ingredients (INCI name, chemical name) COMPOSITION 3 I NVENTION Octyldodecanol 11.55 Sucrose Laurate (Surfhope SE COSME C-1216 - Mitsubis hi Kagaku Foods) 1.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Ethylcellulose (AQUALON EC N7 PHARM - Ashland) 3 Octyldodecanol 25.71 Isononyl Isononanoate 4.8 Ethanol 2 Red 33 0.04 Water 7.5 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 8 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides (Softisan 100 - Cremer O leo) 7 Red 7 0.5 Dehydroxanthan Gum (Amaze XT - Akzo Nobel) 0.2 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract (Candellila Resin El - Japan Natural Products) 3 Ethylcellulose (aqueous dispersion with 26.2% ethylcellulose; AQUA CO AT ECD-30 - FMC Biopolymer) 24.5 Operating mode
[0292] On the one hand, the capric / caprylic triglyceride, Softisan 100 and part of the octyldodecanol are mixed at 55°C with stirring, then this mixture is added to the Aquacoat ECD at 55°C, with stirring. Add the xanthan and continue stirring for 30 minutes. Finally, add the sucrose laurate and continue stirring for 45 minutes. The remaining octyldodecanol and ethylcellulose N7 are mixed, stirring at 90°C, then the candelilla resin is added, still stirring, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. This mixture is cooled to 60°C. The resulting gel is added to the mixture obtained previously, with stirring, for 30 minutes at 55°C (1300 rpm). The coloring matters are then introduced, with stirring, at 45°C, then the preservatives. The mixture is left to cool and packaged in a gloss-type bottle (bottle with a flocked applicator - reference 14030, Geka GmbH). Evaluation of the composition
[0293] A homogeneous, stable liquid composition is obtained.
[0294] It is easily applied to the lips, in a thin, fresh deposit, with very little stickiness. The deposit does not migrate or transfer (protocol of example 1).
[0295] In addition, the water and oil resistance of the composition is very good (protocol defined in example 1).
Claims
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, and preferably the lips, liquid in the form of an emulsion comprising: - from 4 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of ethylcellulose - at least one natural resin - at least one first non-volatile oil liquid at 25°C chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols; - at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, liquid at 25°C, different from the first oil and chosen from ester, ether or carbonate oils; - at least one coloring matter.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ethylcellulose content is from 5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one resin is chosen from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) Asphaltite and Gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) Benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins, i) Damars, j) Elemis, k) Incense, 1) Galbanums, m) Labdanums, n) Mastics or Mastics, o) Myrrh, p) Sandarac, q) Shellacs, r) Styrax, s) Venetian turpentine, t) colophony, in particular Rosin and Rosinate and Tall oils, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes; and mixtures of these resins; preferably the natural resin(s) are chosen from incense resins and resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures thereof; said resins may be esterified, salified, adducted, modified by phenols, dimerized and / or hydrogenated.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one resin with an INCI name chosen from: Euphorbia Cerifera Wax Extract, Candellila Wax Extract, Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, Shorea Robusta Resin; and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin contains at least 30% of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, by weight of the total weight of resin.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin comprises at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin comprises less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin has a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol, better still, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g / mol and even better still less than or equal to 1,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 1,000 g / mol.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin(s) have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably in the range from 0°C to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin has a softening point, preferably in the range from 20°C to 150°C, more preferably from 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 40°C to 90°C.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin content represents from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first oil is chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably the first oil is octyldodecanol.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first oil varies from 20 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one second hydrocarbon oil liquid at 25°C chosen from: * ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably C3-Ci6; * hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; * ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms; * liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; * as well as mixtures thereof.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second oil varies from 2 to 35% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one hydrocarbon compound with an ester function, solid at room temperature, more particularly chosen from: * vegetable butters, * totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, * vegetable waxes, * beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax, * esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, * triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C30, optionally hydrogenated, * waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil esterified with fatty alcohols such as in particular lauryl, stearyl, cetyl or behenyl alcohol, * esters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent chains linear aliphatic,branched or cyclic whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, * Hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) may vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units may vary from 1 to 20, * polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and of diglycerol ester and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, * polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, * mixtures thereof.,
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon compound solid at room temperature is chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of hydrocarbon compound(s) solid(s) at room temperature, if the composition comprises them, the content of hydrocarbon compound(s) solid at room temperature is between 0 and less than 15% by weight, preferably between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content varies from 20 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one C1-C5 monoalcohol, preferably saturated, more particularly at a content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one polyol which is liquid at 15°C and atmospheric pressure, chosen from C2-C8, more particularly C3-C6, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon compounds, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, preferably comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, more particularly at a content of between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition, if it contains any, has a content of non-volatile silicone oil(s) of less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight, and advantageously less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously is free of it.
23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition, if it contains any, has a content of volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil(s) of less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition, if it contains any, has a content of non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) of between 0 and 10% by weight, preferably of 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously is free of it.
25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring material chosen from pigments, dyes, and their mixtures.
26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a direct emulsion (oil in water).
27. Method for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, and preferably the lips, consisting of applying the composition claimed according to any one of the preceding claims.