Cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for sun protection or skin care

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for sun protection or skin care The application relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for sun protection comprising: - as sunscreens: ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, - as vitamins or vitamin precursors: tocopherol, an ester thereof or a mixture thereof, vitamin F, an ether, ester and / or phosphoric ester of vitamin C, an ester of vitamin E, and beta-carotene, and - as oils: olive oil, coconut oil and borage oil. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for sun protection or skin care

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition useful for sun protection and / or skin care.

[0002] Many sunscreen or skin care compositions are available on the market.

[0003] These compositions comprise at least one sunscreen, also called an ultraviolet filter. Many commercial compositions contain titanium dioxide as a sunscreen. Titanium dioxide is suspected of having a negative impact on health, or even of being carcinogenic when in nanometric form. We are seeking to develop compositions comprising alternative sunscreens to titanium dioxide. Sunscreens acceptable in cosmetics are listed in Annex VI of Regulation EC 1223 / 2009.

[0004] Furthermore, the harmful impact of the sun depends on the hydration of the skin. The skin reacts better to exposure to the sun when it is hydrated. We are therefore looking for a composition that not only protects the skin from ultraviolet rays, but also moisturizes the skin.

[0005] To this end, according to a first object, the application relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising:

[0006] - as sunscreens: ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine,

[0007] - as vitamins or vitamin precursors:

[0008] tocopherol, an ester thereof or a mixture thereof,

[0009] vitamin F,

[0010] a vitamin C ether, a vitamin C ester, a vitamin C phosphoric ester or a mixture thereof, and

[0011] beta-carotene, and

[0012] - as oils: olive oil, coconut oil and borage oil.

[0013] The composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sunscreens, oils and vitamins and vitamin precursors. This composition advantageously provides good sun protection and excellent hydration of the skin, which makes the skin more suitable for tanning, and gives it, when exposed to the sun, a particular and sought-after tan color.

[0014] The composition may comprise other sunscreen(s), vitamin(s) or precursor(s) and oil(s) than those mentioned above.

[0015] Unless otherwise stated, the mass proportions of components are relative to the total weight of the composition. The mass ratios are the ratio of the mass of a first component to the mass of the second component.

[0016] The embodiments described below can be combined with each other.

[0017] The composition comprises ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine as sunscreens.

[0018] These sunscreens are preferably present:

[0019] - in a proportion of 0.5% to 8.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 6.0% by weight weight, of ethylhexyl triazone,

[0020] - in a proportion of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate such that mass ratio of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate to ethylhexyl triazone is 0.3 to 1.5, preferably 0.4 to 1.3, and

[0021] - in a proportion of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine such that the mass ratio of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine to ethylhexyl triazone is 0.1 to 1.5, preferably 0.2 to 1.1.

[0022] These sunscreens, particularly in the above proportions, provide good sun protection. The higher the concentration of sunscreens, the higher the sun protection factor (SPF).

[0023] The composition may comprise other sunscreens, for example ethylhexylsalicylate and / or ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA.

[0024] The proportion of ethylhexylsalicylate is preferably such that the mass ratio of ethylhexylsalicylate to ethylhexyl triazone is from 0.2 to 2.0, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5.

[0025] The proportion of ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA is preferably such that the mass ratio of ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA to ethylhexyl triazone is from 0.1 to 1.5, preferably from 0.3 to 1.3.

[0026] Generally, within the composition, the cumulative proportion of sunscreens is from 1.0 to 30.0%, preferably from 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 25.0%.

[0027] Preferably, the composition is free of zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0028] Preferably, the composition is free of nanoparticles with an average size of 1 to 100 nm, as measured by scanning electron microscopy, and in particular free of zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide nanoparticles having such a size. Preferably, the composition is free of nanomaterial, namely insoluble or bio-persistent material, intentionally manufactured and characterized by one or more external dimensions, or an internal structure, on a scale from 1 to 100 nm as defined in EC Regulation 1223 / 2009.

[0029] Generally, the composition does not comprise octocrylene. Preferably, the composition does not comprise sunscreens other than ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexylsalicylate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, or even no sunscreens other than ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0030] The composition comprises vitamins (tocopherol is vitamin E; vitamin F) and precursors or derivatives of vitamins (tocopherol ester is a precursor of vitamin E; beta-carotene is a precursor of vitamin A; vitamin C ether, ester or phosphoric ester are derivatives of vitamin C).

[0031] The tocopherol may be present in the form of an ester, preferably selected from tocopherol acetate, tocopherol linoleate or a mixture thereof. The composition preferably comprises a mixture of tocopherol and tocopherol ester(s).

[0032] Vitamin C is not very stable to light, heat and contact with water. It is therefore preferable to avoid its use and to replace it with more stable derivatives. Thus, vitamin C is present in the form of vitamin C ether, vitamin C ester, vitamin C phosphoric ester or a mixture thereof. Ascorbyl glucoside and 3-o-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid are examples of vitamin C ether. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium ascorbyl phosphate are examples of vitamin C phosphoric ester. Ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetra isopalmitate are examples of vitamin C ester. Preferably, the vitamin C derivative of the composition is sodium ascorbyl phosphate.

[0033] Vitamin F is a mixture of linoleic acid and α-linolenic acid. Certain oils can be used as a source of vitamin F, for example corn oil (Zea Mays (Corn) oil), rosehip oil (Rosa Moschata Seed oil) or a mixture of these.

[0034] These vitamins and precursors are preferably present in a proportion of:

[0035] - from 0.9 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 1.6% by weight, of tocopherol, and / or

[0036] - from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, of tocopherol ester,

[0037] and / or

[0038] - from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.3% by weight, of vitamin F, and / or

[0039] - from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 0.4% by weight, of vitamin ether C, vitamin C ester, vitamin C phosphoric ester or mixture thereof, and / or

[0040] - from 0.0001 to 0.01 by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.005% by weight, of beta- carotene.

[0041] In addition to the vitamins or precursors mentioned above, the composition may comprising panthenol, preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 1.0% by weight, of panthenol.

[0042] Generally, within the composition, the cumulative proportion of vitamins and precursors is from 2.0 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 4.5% by weight.

[0043] Preferably, the composition is free of vitamin A derivatives chosen from retinoic acid, retinol, retinal and retinaldehyde. These derivatives can in fact be irritating to the skin.

[0044] The composition also includes olive oil, coconut oil and borage oil. Olive oil nourishes and moisturizes. In particular, olive oil combats water loss from the skin, and restores the skin barrier. Coconut oil is very nourishing, helps fight dehydration, soothes, calms redness, relieves skin heated by the sun. Borage oil has moisturizing, regenerating and anti-aging properties.

[0045] These oils are preferably present within the composition in a proportion of:

[0046] - 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 4.0% by weight, of olive oil, and / or

[0047] - 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 7.0% by weight, of coconut oil, and / or

[0048] -0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, of borage oil.

[0049] The composition may also comprise, in addition to the above oils, sesame oil and / or evening primrose oil. These oils are preferably present in a proportion of:

[0050] - from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 3.0% by weight of sesame oil, and / or

[0051] - from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, of evening primrose oil.

[0052] Generally, within the composition, the cumulative proportion of olive oil, coconut oil, borage oil, sesame oil and evening primrose oil is 3.0 to 20.0%, preferably 4.0 to 15.0% by weight.

[0053] For the purposes of the application, when a concentration of vitamin F is specified, this is without taking into account the proportions of linoleic acid and α-linolenic acid contained in olive, coconut, borage, sesame and evening primrose oils. Generally, the composition comprises another oil as a source of vitamin F, for example corn oil (Zea Mays (Corn) oil), rosehip oil (Rosa Moschata Seed oil) or a mixture thereof. The proportions of vitamin F mentioned above (from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.3% by weight) correspond to the proportions of linoleic acid and α-linolenic acid provided by this (these) other oil(s).

[0054] The oils used in the composition are preferably of plant origin. Preferably, the composition is free of paraffinum liquidum, parraffinum cera and / or microcristallina oil, or even more generally free of mineral oil.

[0055] The composition may further comprise aloe vera or an extract thereof, for example dehydrated aloe vera juice.

[0056] The composition may include additional additives selected from a viscosity controlling agent, a preservative, an emollient, a moisturizing agent, a surfactant, a fragrance, an acid or base for adjusting pH, a skin conditioner, a masking agent and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Preferably, the composition is free of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), in acid or salt form, the environmental impact of which is highly controversial. Preferably, the composition is free of heavy metal complexing agents.

[0058] Preferably, the composition is free of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), the latter being suspected of being an endocrine disruptor or even probably carcinogenic.

[0059] Preferably, the composition is free from polysiloxanes (also called silicones), and in particular free from dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane), cyclopentasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (also called cyclomethicone), the environmental impact of which is very controversial, in particular because they are poorly biodegradable.

[0060] Preferably, the composition is free of propylene glycol, in order to limit components derived from petrochemicals.

[0061] The composition generally comprises a solvent. The composition is in the form of an aqueous or oily gel, preferably oily, an emulsion of the W / O or O / W type or a single-phase liquid.

[0062] According to a first alternative, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0063] The embodiments described below for the first alternative can be combined with each other.

[0064] According to this first alternative, preferably, the only sunscreens in the composition are ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.

[0065] According to this first alternative, preferably, the sunscreens are such that:

[0066] - the proportion of 0.5% to 6.0% by weight, preferably of 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, ethylhexyl triazone,

[0067] - the proportion of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate such as the ratio mass ratio of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate to ethylhexyl triazone is 0.7 to 1.4, preferably 0.9 to 1.3, and

[0068] - the proportion of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such that the ratio mass of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine on ethylhexyl triazone is 0.1 to 1.5, preferably 0.2 to 1.1.

[0069] According to this first alternative, preferably, the composition comprises panthenol.

[0070] According to this first alternative, preferably, the composition is free of sesame oil and / or evening primrose oil.

[0071] According to this first alternative, preferably, the oils are preferably present in a proportion of:

[0072] - 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, of olive oil, and / or

[0073] - 0.5 to 4.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, of coconut oil, and / or

[0074] -0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, of borage oil.

[0075] Generally, within the composition according to this first alternative, the cumulative proportion of olive oil, coconut oil and borage oil is from 3.0 to 6.0%, preferably from 4.0 to 5.0% by weight.

[0076] The composition according to this first alternative preferably comprises aloe vera or an extract thereof, for example a dehydrated aloe vera juice.

[0077] According to this first alternative, preferably, the mass proportion of water is from 40 to 70%, preferably from 50 to 60% by weight.

[0078] According to a second alternative, the composition is in the form of a single-phase oil.

[0079] The embodiments described below for the second alternative can be combined with each other.

[0080] According to this second alternative, preferably, the only sunscreens in the composition are ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, or the only sunscreens in the composition are ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexylsalicylate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA.

[0081] According to this second alternative, preferably, the sunscreens are preferably such that:

[0082] - the proportion of 1.0% to 6.0% by weight, preferably of 1.0 to 5.5% by weight, ethylhexyl triazone,

[0083] - the proportion of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate is such that the ratio mass ratio of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate to ethylhexyl triazone is 0.2 to 1.0, preferably 0.3 to 0.9, and

[0084] - the proportion of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is such that the mass ratio of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine to ethylhexyl triazone is 0.1 to 1.2, preferably 0.2 to 1.1,

[0085] - the proportion of ethylhexylsalicylate is such that the mass ratio of ethylhexylsalicylate to ethylhexyl triazone is 0 (ethylhexylsalicylate absent) or 0.7 to 1.3,

[0086] - the proportion of ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA such that the mass ratio of ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA to ethylhexyl triazone is 0 (ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA absent) or 0.5 to 1.1.

[0087] According to this second alternative, preferably, the composition is free of panthenol.

[0088] According to this second alternative, preferably, the composition comprises sesame oil and evening primrose oil.

[0089] According to this second alternative, preferably, the oils are preferably present in a proportion:

[0090] - from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0 to 4.0% by weight, of olive oil, and / or

[0091] - from 4.0 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 7.0% by weight, of coconut oil, and / or

[0092] -from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, of borage oil, and / or

[0093] - from 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 3.0% by weight of sesame oil, and / or

[0094] - from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, of evening primrose oil.

[0095] Generally, within the composition according to this second alternative, the cumulative proportion of olive oil, coconut oil, borage oil, sesame oil and evening primrose oil is from 9.0 to 15.0%, preferably from 11.0 to 13.0% by weight.

[0096] The composition can be prepared by simply mixing its constituents.

[0097] According to a second subject, the invention relates to the use of the composition for sun protection and / or skin care. The composition according to the invention can be applied to the face and / or to the body.

[0098] The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

[0099] Examples

[0100] Sun care creams were prepared having the composition provided in Table 1.

[0101] Sun oils were prepared having the composition provided in Table 2.

[0102] It has been observed that these creams and oils provide excellent skin hydration and good sun protection.

[0103] [Tables] Example ABCDEF Sun protection Low Low medium High High Very high UV filters ethylhexyl triazone 1% 1% 2% 3% 4.50% 4.50% diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 1% 1% 2% 3% 4.50% 5% bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol me-thoxyphenyl triazine 0.25% 1% 2% 3% 3% 3% vitamins tocopherol (vitamin E) 1.51% 1.10% 1.10% 1.10% 1.10% 1.10% panthenol (vitamin B5) 0.60% 0.80% 0.80% 0.80% 0.80% 0.80% vitamin F 0.60% 0.60% 0.60% 0.60% 0.60% 0.60% sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.30% 0.30% 0.30% 0.30% 0.30% 0.30% tocopherol acetate and / or tocopherol linoleate 0.40% 1.22% 1.22% 1.22% 1.22% 1.22% beta carotene (provitamin A) 0.003% 0.001% 0.001% 0.001% 0.001% 0.001% oils olive oil 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% coconut oil 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% borage oil 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% active aloe vera (from dehydrated juice) 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% fragrance ND ND ND ND ND ND

[0104] Compositions of sun care creams, the proportions being by weight relative to the total weight of the cream

[0105] [Tables2] Examples GHIJK Sun protection Low Low medium High High UV filters ethylhexyl triazone 1.50% 2% 3% 5% 5% diethylamino hy-droxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 1% 1% 2% 3% 3% bis-ethylhexyloxypheno 1 methoxyphenyl triazine 0.50% 2% 2% 4% 5% ethylhexyl salicylate - - - - 5% ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA - - - - 4% vitamins tocopherol (vitamin E) 1.40% 1.40% 1.40% 1.40% 1.40% vitamin F 1.20% 1.20% 1.20% 1.20% 1.20% sodium ascorbyl phosphate 0.30% 0.30% 0.30% 0.30% 0.30% tocopherol acetate 0.40% 0.40% 0.40% 0.40% 0.40% beta carotene (provitamin A) 0.003% 0.003% 0.003% 0.003% 0.003% oils coconut oil 6% 6% 6% 6% 6% olive oil 3% 3% 3% 3% 3% sesame oil 2% 2% 2% 2% 2% borage oil 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% evening primrose oil 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% fragrance ND ND ND ND ND

[0106] Compositions of sun oils, the proportions being by weight relative to the total weight of the oil

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising: - as sunscreens: ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol me-thoxyphenyl triazine, - as vitamins or vitamin precursors: tocopherol, an ester thereof or a mixture thereof, vitamin F, a vitamin C ether, a vitamin C ester, a vitamin C phosphoric ester or a mixture thereof, and beta-carotene, and - as oils: olive oil, coconut oil and borage oil.

2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising: - from 0.5% to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 6.0% by weight, of ethylhexyl triazone, - diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, in a proportion such that the mass ratio of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate to ethylhexyl triazone is from 0.3 to 1.5, preferably from 0.4 to 1.3, and - bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, in a proportion such that the mass ratio of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine to ethylhexyl triazone is from 0.1 to 1.5, preferably from 0.2 to 1.

1.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising: - from 0.9 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 1.6% by weight, of tocopherol, and / or - from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, of tocopherol ester, and / or - from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 1.3% by weight, of vitamin F, and / or - from 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 0.4% by weight, of vitamin C ether, vitamin C ester, vitamin C phosphoric ester or mixture thereof, and / or - from 0.0001 to 0.01 by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 0.005% by weight, beta-carotene.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3,

5.

6.

7.

8.

9. including: - 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 4.0% by weight, of olive oil, and / or - 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 7.0% by weight, of coconut oil, and / or -0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight, of borage oil. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising, as oils: - sesame oil, preferably in a proportion of 0.5 to 5% by weight, preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight, and / or - evening primrose oil, preferably in a proportion of 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising, as sunscreens: - ethylhexylsalicylate, preferably in a proportion such that the mass ratio of ethylhexylsalicylate to ethylhexyl triazone is from 0.2 to 2.0, preferably from 0.5 to 1.5, and - ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, preferably in a proportion such that the mass ratio of ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA to ethylhexyl triazone is from 0.1 to 1.5, preferably from 0.3 to 1.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising, as vitamin, panthenol, in particular from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 1.0% by weight, of panthenol. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising an aloe vera extract. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, free from: - zinc oxide, and / or - titanium dioxide, and / or - nanoparticles with an average size of 1 to 100 nm, as measured by scanning electron microscopy, and / or - ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and / or - butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), and / or - polysiloxanes, and / or - propylene glycol, and / or - vitamin A derivatives chosen from retinoic acid, retinol, retinal and retinaldehyde, and / or - mineral oil.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, in the form of an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion of the W / O or O / W type, or a single-phase liquid, preferably in the form of an emulsion of the O / W type or an oil.