Retinol-based composition

Abstract

Retinol-based composition. The present invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, especially for makeup and / or the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising at least one retinoid, in particular retinol; bisabolol; 4-t-butylcyclohexanol; niacinamide; and D-panthenol. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Retinol-based composition technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the anti-aging care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin.

[0002] For the purposes of this invention, "keratinous materials" means, in particular, skin, lips and / or eyelashes, especially skin and / or lips, and preferably skin of the body and / or face, and more preferably of the face.

[0003] Skin aging results from the effects of intrinsic and extrinsic factors on the skin. During the aging process, alterations in skin structure and function occur. The main clinical signs resulting from these changes in skin metabolism are the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines due to sagging and loss of tissue elasticity.

[0004] Furthermore, intrinsic aging, which induces changes in the skin, notably causes a slowing of the renewal of skin cells, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as the reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue and the appearance of fine wrinkles or lines, and in histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, a loss of vertical fibers of the membrane of the elastic tissue, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue. Previous technique

[0005] It is known to treat these signs of skin aging using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active ingredients capable of fighting aging, of which retinoids represent a known family of active ingredients.

[0006] Among the compounds in the retinoid family, retinol, which is a form of vitamin A, is of particular interest. Indeed, retinol is a natural endogenous constituent of the human body. Furthermore, it is well tolerated when applied to the skin, even at much higher concentrations than retinoic acid.

[0007] Unfortunately, the application of retinoid-based formulations, particularly retinol, can be a source of discomfort for the user. It can cause sensory discomfort, hypersensitivity, sensations of skin irritation, tingling, etc.

[0008] These sensations of discomfort and sensory hypersensitivity are particularly exacerbated in the case of the application of these formulations on sensitive and reactive skin.

[0009] Thus, the appearance of signs of discomfort, which occur within minutes of the subject coming into contact with the formulation, is one of the essential characteristics of sensitive skin. These are primarily dysesthetic sensations, which are neurosensory signs. Dysesthetic sensations are defined as more or less painful sensations felt in an area of ​​skin, such as tingling, prickling, itching or pruritus, burning, discomfort, tightness, etc. These subjective signs most often exist in the absence of visible clinical signs such as desquamation.

[0010] Currently, to reduce discomfort problems, it is proposed to apply the retinoid-based product, with an adaptation period, for example by following a rhythm of two applications per week for the first week, followed by one application every two days during the second week, and finally one daily application.

[0011] There are also retinol-based serums on the market containing alpha-bisabolol and trans-tert-butylcyclohexanol, these compounds being offered to calm irritation and soothe the skin. Description of the invention

[0012] The present invention aims to provide a solution to the sensations of discomfort when applying formulations containing retinoids, in particular retinol, especially in people with sensitive skin.

[0013] More specifically, the present invention proposes new cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, especially for skin care, comprising at least one retinoid, such as retinol, providing a perception of comfort and pleasant sensory properties for the user.

[0014] Thus, the invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, especially for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, comprising at least: - a retinoid, in particular retinol; - bisabolol; - 4-t-butylcyclohexanol; - niacinamide; and - D-panthenol.

[0015] As illustrated in the following examples, the inventors have found, surprisingly, that the combination of the four specific compounds, bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol, in a composition comprising a retinoid, in particular retinol, makes it possible to advantageously modulate the sensory experience of applying the composition, in particular on the skin, and to improve the user's perception of comfort.

[0016] In the following text, the combination according to the invention of at least the four aforementioned compounds in a composition comprising at least one retinoid, in particular retinol, namely: bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol, will be referred to more simply as "combination (or association) of compounds according to the invention", or more simply as "combination (or association) according to the invention".

[0017] By the terms "combination" or "association", it is meant that the four aforementioned compounds are present in the composition according to the invention, these expressions however implying no restriction as to the method of introduction of the different compounds during the formulation of the composition, these being able to be introduced, during the preparation of a composition according to the invention, in isolation from each other, or in the form of a mixture of two or more of these compounds.

[0018] In the case of a composition comprising at least two phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase, the compounds considered according to the invention may further be present within the same phase or in separate phases.

[0019] As detailed in the rest of the text, the compounds implemented according to the invention, bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol, are ingredients known separately for application as an anti-inflammatory agent, to act on nociceptive pain or on the skin barrier function.

[0020] On the other hand, to the inventors' knowledge, it has never been proposed to specifically combine these compounds in a composition comprising a retinoid, in particular retinol, for the purpose of improving the sensory properties of the application of the composition.

[0021] Thus, as illustrated in the examples that follow, the implementation of the combination of specific compounds according to the invention makes it possible to access a composition with improved sensory properties, and thus to improve the perception of comfort upon application.

[0022] For the purposes of this invention, "sensory properties" means the sensations experienced and observed by a user who applies a composition to their skin, and which correspond to the physico-chemical and / or rheological characteristics of said composition.

[0023] In particular, as evidenced by the evaluation in the following examples of the rheological parameters of the compositions, the implementation of the combination of specific compounds according to the invention interferes with the rheological behavior of the composition in application.

[0024] The rheological behavior of the composition can be more particularly characterized by the evolution of the elastic modulus (or conservation modulus), G', and the loss modulus (or viscous modulus), G”, as described in the examples shown below.

[0025] Analysis of the evolution of the elastic and viscous moduli G' and G” as a function of the applied stress r shows that a composition according to the invention exhibits a different texture evolution during loading than a composition not comprising the combination of specific compounds according to the invention. More precisely, it can be observed that a composition comprising the combination of specific compounds according to the invention exhibits a lower stress rc at the point of intersection of the curves for the evolution of the moduli G' and G” and a shorter plateau in the linear viscoelastic domain (the linear domain where the rheological parameters are independent of the applied stress), compared to compositions not incorporating any of the compounds in the combination according to the invention, or incorporating only some of these compounds.

[0026] This difference in rheological behavior of the compositions according to the invention during a stress testifies to a more rapid destructuring upon application of the composition.

[0027] These rheological properties result in improved sensory properties upon application. Faster breakdown of the composition upon application allows for easy application, for example on sensitive skin, without requiring excessive application intensity.

[0028] Furthermore, a composition incorporating the specific combination of compounds according to the invention advantageously presents a more stringy grip, compared to a composition not incorporating any of the compounds of the combination according to the invention, or incorporating only a part of these compounds, as well as slower penetration into the skin and an increased film-forming effect, which makes it possible to accentuate the perception of emollience and hydration upon application.

[0029] The compositions according to the invention thus exhibit improved sensory properties upon application.

[0030] By improving the sensory properties of the application of compositions comprising a retinoid, in particular retinol, the invention advantageously allows the implementation of these compositions for sensitive and reactive skin.

[0031] Sensitive skin is different from allergic skin. Its reactivity does not stem from an immunological process, and is generally expressed solely by dysesthetic sensations.

[0032] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "sensitive skin" covers irritable skin and intolerant skin.

[0033] Intolerant skin is skin that reacts, at least with sensations of heat, tightness, tingling, and / or redness, to various factors, such as the application of cosmetic or dermatological products or soap. Generally, these signs are associated with erythema and hyperseborrheic or acne-prone skin, or even rosacea, with or without eczema.

[0034] Irritable skin is skin that reacts with pruritus, that is to say with itching or tingling, to various factors such as the environment, emotions, food, wind, friction, razor, hard water with a high concentration of limestone, temperature variations, humidity.

[0035] It is understood that these sensations may also be associated with the manifestation of skin symptoms. Thus, generally speaking, this type of skin may be associated with dryness, with or without eczema, or with skin that presents with erythema. Dryness is manifested primarily by a sensation of tightness and / or tension. The skin is also rough to the touch and appears covered with scales. When the skin is slightly dry, these scales are abundant but barely visible to the naked eye. They become less numerous but increasingly visible to the naked eye as this condition worsens.

[0036] In the context of the present invention, the sensitive skins considered do not exhibit any inflammatory characteristics.

[0037] Also, advantageously, by reducing the perception of discomfort generally felt when applying retinoid-based formulations, particularly retinol, the invention makes it possible to offer compositions incorporating an increased amount of retinoid, particularly retinol, while providing the user with a satisfactory sensory perception.

[0038] The invention also relates, according to another aspect of it, to the use of at least bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol in a composition, in particular cosmetic, containing at least one retinoid, in particular retinol, to improve the sensory properties of the composition when applied to keratinous material, in particular to the skin and / or lips, advantageously for application to sensitive skin.

[0039] Advantageously, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate and at least one salt of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid.

[0040] The compositions according to the invention advantageously exhibit good stability over time, in that the losses of retinoid compound, in particular retinol, which they comprise are low over time, as well as good organoleptic properties, in particular a pleasant odor and color.

[0041] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention comprise a restricted content of controversial ingredients, and in particular comprise less than 0.2% by weight of butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its derivatives, and preferably do not comprise any controversial ingredients, and in particular do not comprise butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its derivatives.

[0042] A composition according to the invention is in particular implemented for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and preferably for the care of keratinous materials.

[0043] Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care, preferably care, of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition according to the invention.

[0044] Advantageously, the process according to the invention is implemented for application on sensitive skin.

[0045] Said cosmetic process for makeup and / or care, preferably care, of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, is non-therapeutic.

[0046] Other features, variations, and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. Detailed Description Retinol

[0047] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one retinoid.

[0048] A retinoid according to the invention may be retinol, retinal or an ester of retinol and a C2-C20 acid, such as retinyl propionate, acetate or palmitate.

[0049] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the retinoid used in a composition according to the invention is retinol, otherwise known as Vitamin A. By "retinol" in the context of the present invention, we mean all isomers of retinol, namely all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol and 9-cis retinol, but also 3,4-didehydroretinol.

[0050] In particular, retinol is chosen from among all the isomers of retinol, namely all-trans retinol, 13-cis retinol, 11-cis retinol and 9-cis retinol.

[0051] Preferably, all-trans retinol is used.

[0052] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises an effective amount of retinoid(s), preferably retinol.

[0053] By "effective quantity" for the purposes of the present invention, we mean a quantity of retinoid, in particular retinol, which makes it possible to obtain the effect sought by its implementation, in particular the reduction of the signs of aging of keratinous materials.

[0054] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 0.02% by weight of retinoid(s), in particular retinol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] More particularly, a composition according to the invention may comprise an amount of retinoid(s), in particular retinol, of between 0.02% and 5.0% by weight, in particular between 0.05% and 3.0% by weight, preferably between 0.08% and 1.0% by weight, and more preferably between 0.1% and 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] It is understood that the retinol content corresponds to the content of active matter, also called dry matter, of retinoid(s), in particular retinol, introduced into the composition.

[0057] According to a particular embodiment, retinol can be introduced into the composition dissolved in an oil, such as a vegetable oil, for example soybean oil, in particular at a content of 5% to 20% by weight, preferably about 10% by weight in the oil.

[0058] Products marketed by BASF, in particular under the name Retinol 10SU, with 10% by weight of active substance in soybean oil, are particularly suitable.

[0059] According to another particular embodiment, retinol can also be implemented in an encapsulated form.

[0060] As previously stated, a composition according to the invention based on at least one retinoid, in particular retinol, comprises a combination of specific compounds including at least bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol. Bisabolol

[0061] As previously stated, a composition according to the invention comprises at least bisabolol.

[0062] Bisabolol is commonly used in skin care as an anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient.

[0063] Bisabolol is a monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol possessing two isomers, α and γ, which in turn possess two pairs of levorotatory and dextrorotatory enantiomers. It is of a colorless oily liquid found in wild chamomile essential oil and in bergamot oil.

[0064] Bisabolol in the sense of the present invention includes the α and [3] isomers or a mixture of these isomers.

[0065] Preferably, a composition according to the invention uses a plant-based bisabolol, in particular one derived from chamomile.

[0066] Such a compound is for example marketed under the name Dragosantol® by the company Symrise.

[0067] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of bisabolol, in particular from 0.1% to 1.0% and more particularly from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight of bisabolol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises bisabol in a bisabol / retinoid(s) mass ratio, in particular bisabol / retinol, of between 0.5 and 3, in particular between 0.9 and 2.1. 4-t-butylcyclohexanol

[0069] A composition according to the invention also comprises at least 4-t-butylcyclohexanol.

[0070] 4-t-butylcyclohexanol as defined in the invention includes the cis and trans isomers, or a mixture of the cis and trans isomers.

[0071] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least trans-4-tert-butylcyclohexanol. Trans-4-tert-butylcyclohexanol includes (+)-tran-5-4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, (-)-trans-4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, and racemic mixtures.

[0072] 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol has already been proposed as a reducing or soothing agent for skin irritations. It acts more specifically as an antagonist of TRPV1 receptors, thus intercepting the signals caused by skin irritation before they reach the neuroreceptors, and thereby acting on nociceptive pain, for example on the sensations of tingling and burning of the skin.

[0073] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 5% by weight of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, in particular from 0.5% to 2% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] As an example, we can cite the compound 4-t-butylcyclohexanol marketed by the company Symrise under the name SymSitive® 1609.

[0075] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises 4-t-butylcyclohexanol in a mass ratio of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol / retinoid(s), in particular 4-t-butylcyclohexanol / retinol between 0.5 and 5, in particular between 1.9 and 4.1. Niacinamide

[0076] A composition according to the invention also comprises at least niacinamide.

[0077] Niacinamide, or nicotinamide, is vitamin PP, which is a form of vitamin B3, and whose CAS number is 98-92-0. This substance is also known as nicotinic acid amide and vitamin B3.

[0078] Niacinamide is known to improve skin elasticity, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and to reduce redness and pigment spots, as well as sebum secretion. Topical application of niacinamide also has a stabilizing effect on the skin barrier function and improves the moisture content of the stratum corneum. It also plays a role in the repair of DNA in keratinocytes damaged by UV exposure.

[0079] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 5% by weight of niacinamide, in particular from 1% to 3% by weight and more particularly from 1.5% to 3% by weight of niacinamide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] As an example, we can cite niacinamide marketed by the company DSM Nutritional Products under the name Niacinamide PC.

[0081] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises niacinamide in a niacinamide / retinoid(s) mass ratio, in particular niacinamide / retinol, of between 0.5 and 20, in particular between 0.9 and 12.1. D-Panthenol

[0082] D-panthenol or dexpanthenol, more commonly known as panthenol, is a precursor of vitamin B (pro-vitamin B5).

[0083] A composition according to the invention may comprise D-panthenol alone or a racemic mixture of the D and L enantiomers of panthenol.

[0084] D-panthenol is known to act on the skin barrier. More specifically, D-panthenol is involved in the metabolic processes of skin regeneration. D-panthenol has thus been described for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, regenerative, and healing properties.

[0085] As an example, we can cite D-panthenol marketed by BASF under the name D-Panthenol 75W.

[0086] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 5% by weight of D-panthenol, in particular from 0.4% to 1% by weight of D-panthenol and more particularly from 0.5% to 1% by weight of D-panthenol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises D-panthenol in a D-panthenol / retinoid(s) mass ratio, in particular D-panthenol / retinol, of between 0.1 and 4, in particular between 0.9 and 3.1.

[0088] According to a particular embodiment, the combination of bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol represents 2% to 6% by weight, in particular 3.5% to 4.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprises at least: - between 0.1% and 1% by weight of retinoid(s), in particular retinol; - between 0.1% and 0.6% by weight of bisabolol; - between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight of 4-t-butyl cyclohexanol; - between 1.5% and 3% by weight of niacinamide; and - between 0.5% and 1% by weight of D-panthenol; relative to the total weight of the composition. Other compounds

[0090] Di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate

[0091] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the combination of the aforementioned compounds, at least di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate.

[0092] Tetra-di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl hydroxycinnamate or tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate pentaerythrityl is a compound, which is part of the family of cinnamic acids and their derivatives, whose CAS number is 6683-19-8.

[0093] By way of example, one can cite the di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound marketed by BASF under the name Tinogard

[0094] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] Salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid

[0096] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the combination of the aforementioned compounds, at least one salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

[0097] Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is a compound with the formula:

[0099] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid is chosen from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. Alkali metal salts of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid are particularly preferred.

[0100] Preferably, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid used according to the invention is trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate.

[0101] Such a compound is, for example, that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, or that marketed under the name Octaquest E30® by the company Octel Performance Chemicals.

[0102] Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.07% to 0.3% by weight of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] It is understood that the salt content of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid corresponds to the active matter content, also called dry matter, of the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid introduced into the composition.

[0104] According to a particular embodiment, the salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid can be introduced into the composition dissolved in water, in particular in a content of 25% to 50% by weight, preferably 35% to 40% by weight in water.

[0105] Such a compound is for example that marketed under the name Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, at 37% by weight in water.

[0106] Advantageously, a composition according to the invention combines at least one di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one salt of ethylenediaminesuccinic acid. As described in application WO 2021 / 123337, the combination of at least one di-t-butyl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one salt of ethylenediaminesuccinic acid, particularly as described above, advantageously allows for the effective stabilization of the retinol contained in the cosmetic composition.

[0107] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, preferably in a mass ratio of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate / ethylenediamine disuccinic acid salt compound ranging from 1.5 to 5, and preferably ranging from 2.5 to 4.5.

[0108] Thus, in a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic composition according to the invention, comprises at least: - a retinoid, in particular retinol; - bisabolol; - 4-t-cyclohexanol; - niacinamide; - D-panthenol; - di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate; and - a salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid.

[0109] In a more particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least: - between 0.1% and 1% by weight of retinoid(s), in particular retinol; - between 0.1% and 0.6% by weight of bisabolol; - between 0.5% and 1.5% by weight of 4-t-butyl cyclohexanol; - between 1.5% and 3% by weight of niacinamide; - between 0.5% and 1% by weight of D-panthenol; - between 0.01% and 2.5% by weight of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate; and - between 0.01% and 2.5% by weight of a salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid; mass percentages are given in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

[0111] In one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may include, in addition to the combination of the aforementioned compounds, at least dipotassium glycyrrhizate (DPG).

[0112] Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is the dipotassium salt of glycyrrhizic acid. It is a humectant and gelling agent, which is particularly recommended for its calming and soothing properties, especially for sensitive and reactive skin.

[0113] As an example, we can cite the compound dipotassium glycyrrhizate marketed by the company Maruzen Pharmaceuticals under the name Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate.

[0114] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 0.3% by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, in particular from 0.15% to 0.25% by weight of dipotassium glycyrrhizate, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] As illustrated in the following examples, the use of dipotassium glycyrrhizate is not essential to obtaining the rheological and sensory properties provided by the combination of compounds according to the invention.

[0116] Thus, in another embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of dipotassium glycyrrhizate. Aqueous phase

[0117] A composition according to the invention generally comprises at least one aqueous phase and / or at least one oily phase, constituting a cosmetically acceptable medium for incorporating the effective amount of retinol and the combination of specific compounds according to the invention, and forming a composition, in particular a cosmetic one, according to the invention.

[0118] In particular, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 85% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0119] According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention is anhydrous, that is to say that it comprises less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0120] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0121] By "water-soluble solvent" according to the present invention, we mean a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

[0122] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

[0123] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention in particular lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

[0124] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.

[0125] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0126] Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

[0127] A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four -OH functions.

[0128] Polyols suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are in particular those having from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0129] The polyol can be selected for example from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers like diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0130] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention may comprise at least one compound selected from 1,3-propanediol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof.

[0132] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises at least glycerol. Oily phase

[0133] When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, this preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0134] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0135] An oily phase suitable for the preparation of compositions, particularly cosmetics, according to the invention may include hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0136] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0137] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment, silicone-based oils are preferred.

[0138] By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0139] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0140] The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0141] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0142] The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0143] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10³ to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg). Volatile oils

[0144] Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone-based.

[0145] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms include C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls; C8-Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate; and mixtures thereof. In particular, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from among volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0146] One can also mention the volatile linear alkanes comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis, and their mixtures.

[0147] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisilazane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0148] Examples of cyclic siliconized volatile oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane. Non-volatile oils

[0149] Non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

[0150] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, - vegetable-based hydrocarbon oils, synthetic ethers with 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, - synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 10.Esters can be chosen, in particular, from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, . - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - liquid fatty alcohols at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, - higher fatty acids in the C12-C22 range, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, - non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methycone, and - phenylated silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone of viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as mixtures of these different oils.

[0151] In particular, the composition may further comprise at least one non-volatile oil, in particular selected from non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile ester oils and mixtures thereof.

[0152] For the purposes of this invention, "non-polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 °C, ôa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0153] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional Hansen solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: “The three dimensional solubility parameters”, J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

[0154] According to this Hansen space: - ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular collisions; - ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bonding, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); and - ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + ôh2)' / 2. The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)' / 2.

[0155] In particular, the non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is free of oxygen atoms.

[0156] Preferably, the non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil can be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin. In particular, it can be chosen from: - paraffin oil or its derivatives, - petroleum jelly, - naphthalene oil, - polybutylenes, notably Indopol H-100 (molar mass or Mw = 965 g / mol), Indopol H-300 (Mw = 1340 g / mol), Indopol H-1500 (Mw = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by Amoco, - polyisobutenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, notably Parleam® marketed by Nippon Oil Fats, Panalane H-300 E marketed or manufactured by Amoco (Mw = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by Synteal (Mw = 6000 g / mol), Rewopal PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by the Witco (Mw = 1000 g / mol), - decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, notably Indopol L-14, - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, in particular Puresyn 10 (Mw = 723 g / mol), Puresyn 150 (Mw = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals, - and their mixtures.

[0157] Said non-volatile oil may also be an ester oil, in particular having between 18 and 70 carbon atoms.

[0158] Examples include mono-, di- or tri- esters.

[0159] Ester oils can in particular be hydroxylated.

[0160] The non-volatile ester oil may preferably be selected from: - Monoesters comprising between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of the formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 18, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C15-111 alcohol benzoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, benzoate octyl-2 dodecyl, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate,2-Octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate. Preferably, these are esters of the formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, Ri and R2 being such that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 18. Preferably, the ester comprises between 18 and 40 carbon atoms in total. Preferred monoesters include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate; - Diesters, particularly those comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, especially those between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. Dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohol diesters, such as preferably diisostearyl malate, or glycol and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, may be used. that the compound sold under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS by the company Alzo; - triesters, in particular comprising between 35 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or glycol and monocarboxylic acid triesters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; - tetraesters, in particular having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol or polyglycerol tetraesters and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate; - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and / or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols such as those described in patent application FR0853634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Examples include the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA; - diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular that can be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular in C8 to C34, in particular in Ci2 to C22, in particular in Ci6 to C20, and more particularly in Ci8, such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example such as those marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®; - vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymers, such as the one sold under the name Antaron V-216 (also called Ganex V216) by the company ISP (Mw = 7300 g / mol); - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or jojoba oil, in particular, saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois; and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil; - and their mixtures.

[0161] Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase include, for example, fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Ci-C4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products marketed under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil" or "BY29" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries.

[0162] These fats can be chosen in a variety of ways by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

[0163] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.

[0164] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and preferably at least one non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0165] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least two non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and one non-volatile ester oil.

[0166] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile fatty acid triglyceride, one non-volatile carbonate oil and one non-volatile ester oil.

[0167] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least caprylic / capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate.

[0168] Preferably, the oily phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, and preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Sunscreen

[0169] A composition according to the invention may also include one or more UV filters.

[0170] Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one UV filter.

[0171] In particular, the UV filter(s) suitable for the invention is / are chosen from water-soluble UV filters, oil-soluble UV filters, insoluble UV filters, and mixtures thereof. Among these UV filters, a distinction can be made between water-soluble organic filters, oil-soluble organic filters, insoluble organic filters, and inorganic filters.

[0172] By "water-soluble UV filter" is meant any compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in an aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.

[0173] By "lipid-soluble UV filter" is meant any compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in an oily phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oily phase.

[0174] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any compound that filters UV radiation having a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, for example, Miglyol 812® marketed by Dynamit Nobel. This solubility, measured at 70 °C, is defined as the amount of product in solution in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solids after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0175] By "water-soluble organic UVA filter" is meant any organic compound that filters UVA radiation in the range of wavelengths 320 to 400 nm capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in an aqueous phase or capable of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.

[0176] Examples of water-soluble organic UVA filters usable according to the present invention include benzene l,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups with sulfonic groups, in particular l,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate) or one of its salts, for example marketed under the name Neoheliopan AP® by the company Symrise, benzophenone compounds comprising at least one sulfonic acid function such as benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5 or benzophenone-9.

[0177] By "water-soluble organic UVB filter" is meant any organic compound that filters UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths from 280 to 320 nm capable of being completely dissolved or miscible in molecular form in an aqueous phase or capable of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous phase.

[0178] Examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters usable according to the present invention include water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid, water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds, water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds, water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds, water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] The term “lipid-soluble organic UVB filter” means any organic compound that filters UVB radiation in the wavelength range of 280 to 320 nm and is capable of being completely dissolved or miscible at the molecular level in an oil phase, or of being solubilized in colloidal form (e.g., micellar form) in an oil phase. Some of the liposoluble organic UV filters are liquid at room temperature.

[0180] By way of examples of liposoluble organic UV filters usable according to the present invention, mention may be made of cinnamic derivatives, anthranilates, salicylic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those cited in US patent 5624663, imidazolines, p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844, filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in application WO 93 / 04665, α-alkylstyrene derivative dimers such than those described in patent application DE19855649, the 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981,Merocyanine derivatives, merocyanines as described in US patent 4195999, applications WO2004 / 006878, applications WO2008 / 090066, WO2011113718, WO2009027258, and documents IP COM JOURNAL No. 000179675D published on February 23, 2009, IP COM JOURNAL No. 000182396D published on April 29, 2009, IP COM JOURNAL No. 000189542D published on November 12, 2009, IP COM Journal No. IPCOM000011179D published on March 4, 2004, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] Preferably, the liposoluble organic UV filters can be selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, such as Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane or avobenzone, offered for sale in particular under the trade name of Parsol® 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products, salicylic derivatives, such as Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex® HMS by Rona / EM Industries or Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Helipan® OS by Symrise, derivatives of [3,[3-diphenylacrylate, such as Octocrylene sold under the trade name UVINUL® N539 by BASF, or Etocrylene, sold under the trade name UVINUL® N35 by BASF, and their mixtures.

[0182] Examples of insoluble organic UV filters usable according to the invention may be cited as organic UV filters of the oxalanilide type, triazine type, benzotriazole type, vinyl amide type, cinnamide type, type comprising one or more benzazole and / or benzofuran groups, benzothiophene or indole type, aryl vinylene ketone type, phenylene bis-benzoxazinone derivative type, acrylonitrile amide, sulfonamide or carbamate derivative type or mixtures thereof.

[0183] Examples of inorganic UV filters usable according to the present invention may be cited as metal oxide pigments, such as metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.50 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.50 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly preferably between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.

[0184] By "elementary size" we mean the size of non-aggregated particles.

[0185] The sunscreen(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1.0% to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 3.0% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Adjuvants Surfactant

[0186] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant.

[0187] Surfactants may be selected from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and emulsifying functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of that reference, for anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactants.

[0188] Non-ionic surfactant

[0189] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0190] Non-ionic surfactants may be selected in particular from alkyl- and polyalkyl- esters of poly(ethylene oxide), oxyalkylated alcohols, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sucrose, alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers of glycerol, polyoxyethylenated or not, geminated surfactants, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] As oxyalkylated alcohols, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated, preferably those that can comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs are used, in particular having from 20 to 100 oxyethylene motifs, in particular fatty alcohols, especially in C8-C24, and preferably in Ci2-Ci8; these can be ethoxylated or not, for example such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name "Steareth-20") like Brij® 78 marketed by UNIQEMA, ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30") and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name "C1215 Pareth-7") like that marketed under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals;or in particular oxyalkylated (oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated) alcohols having 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, in particular C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and preferably C[2-Ci8], ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene motifs (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as Brij® 72 marketed by Uniqema. ;

[0192] As alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of sorbitan, polyoxyethylenated or not, those with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 0 to 100 are preferably used. Examples include sorbitan laurate 4 or 20 EO, in particular polysorbate 20 (or polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate), such as the product Tween® 20 marketed by Uniqema, or polysorbate 60, sorbitan palmitate 20 EO, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan stearate 20 EO, sorbitan oleate 20 EO or Cremophor® (RH 40, RH 60 ...) from BASF. We can also mention the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate, marketed under the name Arlacel® 2121U-FL from Croda.

[0193] As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, preferably those containing an alkyl group having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2, or 3 glucoside units. Alkyl polyglucosides may be selected, for example, from decyl glucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cn-poly glucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP® by Henkel and the product marketed under the name Oramix NS 10® by Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711® by Cognis or Oramix CG 110® by Seppic; lauryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP® by Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N® by Henkel; coco glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP® by Henkel; caprylyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP® by Cognis;the mixture of arachidyl glucosyl and behenyl alcohol and arachidic alcohol, whose INCI name is Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside, marketed under the name Montanov® 202 by the company Seppic; and mixtures thereof.

[0194] Anionic surfactant

[0195] Anionic surfactants may be selected from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, Cw-Cw fatty acid metal salts, particularly Ci6-C25, especially metal stearates and behenates and mixtures thereof.

[0196] Cationic surfactant

[0197] Cationic surfactants can be selected from alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulfate, ammonium salts, such as (alkyl C|210)-tri(alkyl C110)ammonium halides like N,N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or Behentrimonium chloride).

[0198] Amphoteric surfactant

[0199] The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants such as N-acyl-amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols phosphates such as that sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by Phoenix Chemical.

[0200] Silicone surfactant

[0201] The composition may also include at least one silicone surfactant. By way of example, non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25 °C, used alone or in mixtures, may include dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate, and non-ionic surfactants with an HLB less than 8 to 25 °C, used alone or in mixture with the cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol mixture.

[0202] The surfactant(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention, in a proportion ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Gelling and Thickening Agents

[0203] Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more thickeners and / or gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic ones, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water, can be incorporated into the composition.

[0204] According to a preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is selected from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, in particular selected from crosslinked acrylic homo- or co-polymers, associative polymers in particular polyurethane-type associative polymers, polyacrylamides and 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, crosslinked and / or neutralized, carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or unmodified, and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined below.

[0205] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen® (CTFA name: Acrylates / Cio-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) by Goodrich, polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the name Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion,such as those marketed under the name Sepigel® 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / Cb u Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel® 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic, polysaccharide biopolymers such as modified celluloses, carrageenans, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, ceroglucan gum, guar gum, rinulin, pullulan, cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, tragacanth gum, tara gum, acacia gum or arabic gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0206] The polymeric hydrophilic gelling agents suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin.

[0207] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "of natural origin" means polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

[0208] These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

[0209] More specifically, these gelling agents fall under the category of polysaccharides, which can be distinguished into several categories.

[0210] Thus, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

[0211] Similarly, it can be linear polysaccharides like pullulan or branched like gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed like starch.

[0212] More particularly, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not. By way of example of starchy polysaccharides, native starches, modified starches and particulate starches may be mentioned in particular.

[0213] In general, non-starch polysaccharides can be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae; polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and their derivatives, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, or fructans; heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0214] The thickener(s) and / or gelling agent(s) may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 4.0%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Charges

[0215] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one filler.

[0216] The filler may be selected from pigments, titanium dioxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, boron nitride, mother-of-pearl, synthetic or natural mica, mother-of-pearl comprising mica and titanium dioxide, silica powder, talc, polyamide particles, and in particular those sold under the name Orgasol® by Atochem, polyethylene powders, acrylic copolymer-based microspheres, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap®, expanded powders such as hollow microspheres, and in particular microspheres marketed under the name Expancel® by Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl® F 80 ED by Matsumoto, silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name Tospearl® by Toshiba Silicone, and their mixtures.

[0217] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride.

[0218] These fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, and preferably from 1.0% to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Assets

[0219] A composition according to the invention may include additional active ingredients, in particular anti-aging active ingredients distinct from retinol implemented according to the invention.

[0220] Examples of anti-aging active ingredients include sodium hyaluronate, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid.

[0221] Such active ingredients may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] A composition according to the invention is preferably free from compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment, that is to say, it comprises less than 0.2% by weight, in particular less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, or even is devoid of compounds that may be harmful to humans and / or the environment, in particular butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its salts.

[0223] Thus, a composition according to the invention is in particular free from butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and / or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its salts, and preferably is devoid of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid or one of its salts.

[0224] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from among the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as preservatives, perfumes, coloring materials, polar additives, film-forming polymers, pH adjusters (acids or bases), cosmetic actives such as, for example, moisturizing agents, healing agents, anti-oily skin agents, and / or anti-pollution agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0225] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0226] According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular a cosmetic, especially for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsified gel as described in application WO2021 / 123352, comprising, in addition to at least one retinoid, in particular retinol; and the combination of the compounds considered according to the invention: bisabolol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, niacinamide and D-panthenol: - at least one polyol, in particular in a content of at least 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; - at least one derivative of polyethylene glycol and mono-, di- and triglycerides of acid comprising at least one alkyl chain from C6 to Ci6, and having at least two ethylene oxide groups; for example chosen from the derivatives of polyethylene glycol and mono-, di- and triglycerides of caprylic and capric acid, such as the one comprising 6 ethylene oxide groups (INCI name: PEG-6 caprylic / capric glycerides), marketed under the name Softigen 767 by the company Sasol; - at least one non-volatile ether oil having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; and - at least one non-volatile monoester oil.

[0227] In a particular embodiment, such a composition further comprises di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate and at least one salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, as described in application WO2021 / 121677. Composition

[0228] As stated previously, a composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0229] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e., one compatible with the skin. Preferably, it is a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e., one that has a pleasant color, odor, and feel.

[0230] A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms classically used in the cosmetic field according to the applications envisaged, in particular for a topical application.

[0231] For topical application to keratinous materials, and in particular the skin or its appendages, a composition may have the form, in particular, of an aqueous or oily solution or dispersion such as a lotion or serum, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency such as a milk, obtained by dispersing an oily phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or vice versa (water-in-oil), or of suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency such as aqueous or anhydrous creams or gels, or of microcapsules or microparticles, or of ionic and / or non-ionic vesicular dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to standard methods.

[0232] In a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a reverse water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, an emulsified gel, or an oily solution. For example, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsified cream-gel.

[0233] In particular, a composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition ranges from 4 to 7, and more preferably from 5 to 7.

[0234] A composition according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Destination of the composition

[0235] A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for care and / or makeup, in particular for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the body or face, preferably of the face.

[0236] These compositions may constitute cleansing, protective, treatment or care creams for the face, hands or body, for example day creams, night creams, makeup creams, foundation creams, sunscreens, fluid foundations, protective or care body milks, sunscreens, lotions, or ampoule treatments.

[0237] Thus, a composition according to the invention can be used as a skincare and / or sun protection product for the face and / or body of liquid to semi-liquid consistency, such as oils, milks, lotions, more or less creamy creams or gel-creams.

[0238] Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin of the body or face, preferably of the face.

[0239] In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an anti-aging skincare composition for the body or face, in particular the face.

[0240] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular for the body or face, preferably for the face.

[0241] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup base composition. A composition of the invention may, in particular, be in the form of a foundation.

[0242] According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a lip product, in particular a lipstick.

[0243] According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of an eyebrow product, in particular an eyebrow pencil.

[0244] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0245] Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably for the care, in particular of the skin of the body and / or face.

[0246] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care, preferably care, of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of application on said keratinous materials, of a composition as defined above.

[0247] Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of application on said keratinous materials, of a composition such as defined above.

[0248] In particular, a composition according to the invention can be implemented for the purpose of combating the signs of skin aging.

[0249] Thus, the present application also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention in order to combat the signs of skin aging.

[0250] The composition can be applied to the skin by hand or with the aid of an applicator.

[0251] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "consisting of ... to "..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0252] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities shown are expressed as mass percentages. Example 1

[0253] Compositions II and 12 according to the invention are prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 1 below. The values ​​are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0254] [Tables 1] Phase Composés (swm INCI) II 12 Phase. A AcjUii qsp 100 qsp 100 BWleae glycol (7.3 GAï©0 £s00 8.00 Piæoosye&aael (Ptasw?* ds CisrîOsiU ((50 0.50 Capylyl giycol CG de Symnss) 030, 030 030 Capylyl giycol CG de Symnss) Gn!aœd®{) 0:10 0.10 Glycenphy (Bp of &~gtsdc CMsîæœf Cs' / wafiffw) 830 8.00 Oiloiphenesm (Ms:n?£-rdfe-⣠of QJO 0.20 Trisodmn Ethylenediamia active 3% aisuc) E5'7 de Zæmjpsc ji^rw EUS 0.30 Phase B Dâmethiame (D£>IFSÆW .Si' 200 C 23⁄4 fs' 350 Æ £fc DGÎF CC^WG (DGF ŒEMC.4L) ((50 0.50 Isorionyl isan (2SAWs 2SAWs) de Sî&æwerie Dubois) 2.00 2.00 Polyglyceryl-3 meùylglscase distearate (IEGO® Cw 450 34S dd GcMt^h di) GJ5 0.75 Cs^rds: <apric higlycside (DL® MjT "i 3' .L3 Ce Stearwrçe Düèo.è') w 1.00 Pœtàerytityrityi tetra-di-t-bW hydrô^hydrociasamaEte (Tî^o^irà^- ÎT de BASF) ((10 0.10 Phase C Aqua 5B3 D 5.83 Niacmamide PC <& EW P^adiieis) 2,0 {Cbiwâ&ï® SP ds .BASE) 1.10 0.50 0.50 Phase E Baseball! Eh\ <?gss^ de §wég) 0,40 0,50 Pantheiiol 75 rCd? BAS?) w 0,67 4-t-butyïcydo^ I00P dd S> wls^ W L00 Dipotassium glycynhizate (2X^GE4S3JEW G£lOi?WÆI^rE £ïs d-feiZÆH 0;2 - Phase F Ahimmum. starch oétesyhaecmate KO® PÉEBhfe AzÆb Re1,00 A® W 1, / ii? % was sci?ve) (Befwi J&SGüfe B.4SE)

[0255] Protocol for Preparation of Compositions

[0256] Laboratory preparation of Composition II costs £ 350 g )

[0257] Composition II is prepared as follows.

[0258] The ingredients of phase A are heated in a vessel to a temperature of about 75°C.

[0259] The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once the mixture is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring and placed under vacuum.

[0260] Phase C is added and mixed.

[0261] Phase D is added and then the assembly is cooled.

[0262] The ingredients of phase E are mixed together under magnetic stirring, then added.

[0263] Phase F is then added under stirring.

[0264] Finally, the retinol from phase G is added to the stirred mixture under stirring with a Raynerie and in a glove box (inerting with nitrogen).

[0265] Preparation of composition I 2 in the laboratory (1.3 kg)

[0266] Composition 12 is prepared as follows.

[0267] The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C under agitation.

[0268] The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring and placed under vacuum. The mixture is stirred for approximately 10 minutes.

[0269] Phase C is added and mixed.

[0270] Phase D is added and then the assembly is cooled.

[0271] The ingredients of phase E are mixed together under magnetic stirring, then added.

[0272] Phase F is then added under stirring.

[0273] Finally, the retinol from phase G is added to the stirred mixture under stirring with a Raynerie and in a glove box (inerting with nitrogen). Example 2

[0274] Composition 13 according to the invention is prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 2 below. The values ​​are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0275] [Tables2] Phase Compounds (nam EVCI) 13 Phase A Aqua qsplÛÛ Batyteæe glycol (7.5 s5œ Phenoxye&æiGl (PAs^w / 334 afe Ctorâatj 070 Caprylyl glycol CG of SyswLe) 030 Sodram Hyaluronate of Glycol Glycol (10-10) Giycaris O?^sh£c Choies / 830 Chlorphenessn {jWrWD-Œ de Macracare) 0.20 Trisodimn Ethyleaediamine disaccmate (37 % in .active material) £37 Jmos / w Xcm® C^wcaL-,* ÛJÛ Phase B DOSH 134 209 C FhAd 550 cSt ds DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) 0=50 Iscaonyl isommanoate - DLS DW de Ssearn^te Oiibsis) 230 PolyglyceiÿL3 methylglucpse distearate (n?GO® Gw 450M Capryccawk = Caprycaw MB= -ti^yceride (DL3 ACT A£S de SïearPi&de DaEaL) 1.00 Pentaeîythrityl tetra-di-t-bMtji hydroxyhydrocissasiate (Twgïrd® FL .& CJÛ Phase C Aqua 10.00 Niadoaimde PC DSM 25&jm Sadibte) (Coswdis* 5F ife _E4.SE) L10 Acîyïates / BeheaeiàL-2 5 methacsylate copclymer (AweEîiï7^ Z-2 5 (vwr ZaMmÉ) 0.50 Phase D Bïsahohî de &^ri^s} 0s5§ Psathentâ (D-PANIHENOL 75 r ife EA3F) . <w 44-b^kychhexangl         wp .5),7:¾ 138 phase e aiumitiom starch octemli.c'sk3te fdï.41- pzg^pzc’5 de azèe          ph)) 130 f itetbiol g0 % sa         mi »       7&su see4sf) 2,50

[0276] Composition preparation protocol

[0277] Preparation of composition I 3 in "Half-Large" _ (1.3 kg)

[0278] The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C under agitation.

[0279] The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once the mixture is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring.

[0280] Phase C is added and mixed.

[0281] The ingredients of phase D are mixed together under magnetic stirring, then added.

[0282] Phase E is then added under stirring.

[0283] Finally, the retinol from phase F is added to the stirred mixture under inerting of the tank. Example 3

[0284] The composition Cl outside the invention is prepared from the weight proportions as detailed in Table 3 below. The values ​​are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0285] [Tables3] Phase Compounds (name INC!) Cl Phase A Agira 36 PantkeMl 75 &4SF) - Niadnamîffe (WŒLW PC of DSM NiàrîtîGn&l - BWleae glycd (7 J S.ÛO Phena^ethasoi de Ctawtf) 0.59 Parfbbb Oly Capricorn glycd) Hyahironate (O&fafeâfj®" æ GivaKifeî) 0,10 Glyceria (BP de Organe CBewe࣠§,00 Chfoiphenesm de Jdto'GCiw) 6,20 Trisodrâm Ethylenediamine disucciaate (37% en active matter) (À^^30 ^30% Phase B Dicone) SH SGG C ^<350 cSï deDOFCOBA™ (DOFCHZ^ÇIL) 6,50 Iscsiionyi isonenanoate t&oaMæoîre - DCB EVZVîjfe .D&dsiy 2,00 Polyglyc«yi-3 methylgiucôse distearate ; Goldsck^sidt) 0.75 C^jylic-capic triglyceride (DLS MCE 755 GAW & ^eÉF^rie 1.00 Peataerythrityl tetra-di-t-tatyl ■hydrc^ihydrocEmamàte (Tiwgara® TF dh BASF) 0.10 C Ql Sci 106 Cdc.polyaesylate (Caswi / âî4 SP BASF) LW Aaylates / Beheneîh-2 5methaoylaÈe copoly sea of ​​BüBjwO 0.50 Phase D Bisaholûl of S^wag) ... Aiumimmi starch octenylssccisate BW® AILS sfe Azfe FMel 1.00 Lt-huhicydohesanoi (A^S^w® d® S) w1es) - Phase E Rétmol (16% in active matter) (BeâwZ 70SL'; fe BASF) 2.00.

[0286] Composition preparation protocol

[0287] Preparation of composition Cl in the laboratory (1.5 kg)

[0288] The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a Minilab tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C under agitation.

[0289] The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring and placed under vacuum. The mixture is stirred for approximately 10 minutes.

[0290] Phase C is added and mixed.

[0291] Phase Cl is added and then the assembly is cooled.

[0292] Phase D is added under stirring using a Raynerie.

[0293] Finally, the retinol from phase E is added to the mixture stirred under Raynerie and under inerting with nitrogen. Example 4

[0294] Compositions C2 and C3 outside the scope of this invention are prepared from the weight proportions detailed in Table 4 below. The values ​​are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0295] [Tables4] Phase Composés (asm INCI) €2 C3 Phase A Aqua qsp ISO qsp 1Ü0 Panthmol 75 0.50 Batytaæ glycol (23 Shtvfeîe GAcsd 8:6C 8.œ Phenoxyethanol & 'Ctoaîïÿ O ■Jï O 0.50 g Sym colly de Capde) 0.30 030 Sodium Hyaluronate Gôm&Eæ) 0.10 0.10 Gfycedn (BP' GA'Cëyjue ds Organic Chemicsl oo S,00 Niacinamide PC ds DSM Nidrititmal Products) - 2.00 Qtaphesessi (Atewisfe-GL 4030) Trisodam Ethylenediamine disaccmated. (37 %. es matière achve) (ÀW^ést® E39 dfe Zasorpsc J'ctw OmMcàS) 0.30 0.30 Phase B Dimethkoae (DOBSL53* IA" TW CF&âf 350 eSr & W COI® PGT CHOMAI) 0.50 Isoac ioîoîl (&o / ioHa?joate 2.00 2.00 PoJygh':er»'L3 methylglucuse distearate / PEGC g Cépg 459 A® ^Zwæ&Gbft&cta^ 0.75 0.75 Capn-fccapric triglyceri.from (DGS ACF 7030CW & Dîiboh) 1.00 10O: Pentærythrityl tetra-di-t-butyi hydra^hydiôciaaæKiaté fDïæg'sra® ZT i& Û,W 0.10 C Water 10 10 Cl ParfiKn - 035 D Sodium Hyataonate 1.10 L10 Aayiates?heheBœth-25 methacrylate copolymer (.Vov^ôi;2^ ZJ 0 dfe ZaFfÊci) 0.50 0.50 Phase E Bisabofoi (OrsgsssM&Z® sfe Sywsei - - Alummum stafdi octenylsuccmate 1.00 2.00 4-t-bmylcycto^^ (SwS’ifmg® jWP Siw&ç) - - Phase F Retinol (10% active ingredient) (PetiW 7 SW 2.50 2.00.

[0296] Protocol for preparing compositions

[0297] Preparation of composition C2 in "Half-Large" _ (40 kg)

[0298] The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C under agitation.

[0299] The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once the mixture is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring.

[0300] Phase C is added and mixed.

[0301] Phase D is added and then the assembly is cooled.

[0302] The ingredients of phase E are added.

[0303] Finally, the retinol from phase F is added to the mixture under inerting of the tank.

[0304] Preparation of composition C2 in "Half-Large" _ (45 kg)

[0305] The ingredients of phase A are introduced into a tank and homogenized by heating to approximately 75°C under agitation.

[0306] The ingredients of phase B are heated to a temperature of 75°C, then once the mixture is melted and homogeneous, phase B is poured into the tank with phase A while stirring.

[0307] Phases C and Cl are added.

[0308] Phase D is added and then the assembly is cooled.

[0309] The ingredients of phase E are added.

[0310] Finally, the retinol from phase F is added to the mixture under inerting of the tank. Example 5

[0311] Compositions according to the invention and outside the invention are evaluated according to the following three analyses, the evaluation protocols of which are detailed below. - Sensory analysis of the application; - Sensory analysis of the skin finish; and - Rheological analysis. 5.1. Sensory analysis of the application

[0312] The sensory aspect, such as stickiness, during the application of the compositions to the skin was evaluated by a panel of approximately twenty experts trained on various point-of-care products according to a standardized application procedure. The evaluation criteria are standardized and rated on a scale of 1 to 15 (from not to very). 0.05 ml of formula is applied to one cheek in 10 rotations. The hands are washed with soap and water and then dried before evaluating various parameters, including stickiness and slipperiness, assessed 2 minutes after application.

[0313] In sensory analysis, formulas II, 12 and 13, comprising the combination of the four compounds according to the invention, niacinamide, panthenol, bisabolol and 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, exhibit a more stringy grip, slower penetration and leave a slightly stickier skin, than formulas Cl, C2 and C3 not in accordance with the invention. 5.2. Sensory analysis of the "skin finish"

[0314] This sensory test was carried out on a panel of ten people, who were asked to rate the sensation of the presence of a film at the end of the application of the compositions according to the rating: (3) film very present, bold, (2) film present; (1) film not very present; (0) film missing - bare skin.

[0315] The average intensity corresponds to the average of the ratings given by the ten people.

[0316] The results for composition 13 according to the invention and compositions C2 and C3 outside the invention are presented in Table 5 below.

[0317] [Tables5] Presence of the idin (intensity) 13 C2 C3 Very present fat (3) Present (2) 7" 4 Slightly present (1) S Absent "bare skin" (0) 3 9 2 Medium intensity (0-3) L4 0.2 O

[0318] A major difference is observed in the sensory evaluation. Thus, 7 out of 10 people find that their skin retains, at the end of application, a film-forming appearance with formula 13 comprising the specific combination according to the invention, compared with formula C2 not containing any of the four compounds of the combination according to the invention, which appears to 9 out of 10 people as "bare" skin at the end of application.

[0319] Feedback from the two sensory analyses shows a slower penetration of the compositions according to the invention, which explains a more present deposit on the skin at the end of application and slightly more stickiness.

[0320] Niacinamide and D-panthenol contribute to this deposition, but alone do not provide sufficient presence at the end of application. However, in combination with bisabolol and 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, they lead to the formation of a film-forming deposit on the skin. 5.3. Rheological Analysis Viscosity

[0321] Viscosity measurement

[0322] The viscosity of the formulas can be measured using a Lamy Rheology Rhéomat RM 200 rheometer with the spindle 3 at a speed of 200 rpm, at room temperature (25 °C) and under atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The values ​​are recorded at T = 30 seconds, T = 10 minutes and T = 24 hours.

[0323] Results

[0324] [Tableauxô] Compositions 12 13 Cl C2 C3 Viscosity (M3) in ÜD (Deviation Unit) (± 5 UD) 84-69 85-72 77-65 96-80 SS-76

[0325] Differences are observed in the viscosities measured by the Rheomat, related to the method of manufacturing the compositions. Thus, the viscosity values ​​of the compositions prepared in DG (“Semi-Large”) (13, C2 and C3) are, in general, higher than the viscosities of the compositions prepared in the laboratory (12 and Cl).

[0326] If we compare the viscosity values ​​obtained for composition 12, comprising the combination of compounds according to the invention, and for composition Cl, both prepared according to the same procedure, we can observe that the viscosities are similar. Likewise, if we compare the viscosity values ​​obtained for composition 13 and compositions C2 and C3, prepared in DG and considering the measurement standard deviation (± 5 UD), the viscosity values ​​remain very close. Rheology

[0327] Rheology measurements make it possible to show more precise differences in texture between the different compositions, regardless of their method of manufacture.

[0328] Measurement of rheological parameters

[0329] The rheological behavior of the composition can be more particularly characterized by the evolution of the elastic modulus (or conservation modulus), G', and its loss modulus (or viscous modulus), G'.

[0330] The measurements are carried out on a constraint rheometer, RS 600 from the company ThermoRhéo, equipped with a thermostatically controlled bath and a stainless steel spindle with cone / plane geometry, diameter 35 mm and angle 2°. The measurements are carried out at a temperature of 32°C.

[0331] The composition is then subjected to harmonic shear under a stress r(t) varying sinusoidally with an angular frequency co (co=2nn), n being the frequency of the applied shear. The sheared composition thus experiences a stress r(t) and responds with a deformation y(t).

[0332] The stress r(t) and the strain y(t) are defined respectively by the following relations:

[0333] r(t) = To cos(œ.t) y(t)= y0 cos(wt - ô)

[0334] To being the maximum amplitude of the stress and y0 being the maximum amplitude of the strain. The elasticity ô is the phase angle between the stress and the strain.

[0335] The measurements are carried out at a frequency of 1 Hz (n = 1 Hz).

[0336] Increasing stresses are applied to the sample starting from an initial stress of 0.01 Pa to reach a final stress of 1000 Pa, the stresses being applied only once.

[0337] The evolution of the elastic and viscous moduli G' and G” and of the elasticity ô is measured as a function of the applied stress t.

[0338] The stress rc at the point of intersection of the evolution curves of the elastic and viscous moduli corresponds to the stress at the phase transition between a so-called solid state and a more liquid state.

[0339] Similarly, the length of the plateau of the linear viscoelastic domain G' (linear domain where the rheological parameters are independent of the applied stress) indicates the longer or shorter duration after which the material will modify its structure in response to the applied stress.

[0340] Results

[0341] The values ​​of rc (stress at the crossing point in pascals) and the value of the end of the plateau of the linear viscoelastic domain (in Pa), i.e. the length of the plateau of the viscoelastic domain G', obtained for compositions 12 and 13 according to the invention and compositions Cl, C2 and C3 outside the invention, are gathered in the following table.

[0342] [Tables?] Composition 12 13 CI Ç2 C3 rc (Pa) 2^,21 30,43 37,21 36,45 38,05 Fia of the linear viscoelastic domain G' (Pa) 200.5 2L54 240.4 260.2 268.3

[0343] Compositions according to the invention comprising the combination of compounds according to the invention have a lower stress at the crossing point rc, compared to comparative compositions, not containing all the compounds according to the invention.

[0344] Similarly, the plateau of the viscoelastic domain G' is shorter for compositions presenting the combination of compounds according to the invention, compared to compositions not comprising all the compounds of the combination according to the invention.

[0345] These results demonstrate that compositions according to the invention change structure with lower levels of stress than compositions not containing the combination according to the invention.

[0346] This implies that the consumer will have a feeling of faster transformation of the product.

[0347] It should be noted that the difference between compositions according to the invention and compositions outside the invention, not containing all the compounds according to the invention, is observed, regardless of the rate of retinol used.

[0348] Thus, compositions comprising the combination according to the invention combine advantageous rheological properties with application, resulting in improved sensory properties and a perceived level of comfort. In particular, the faster breakage (sensation of the composition breaking down upon application) allows the composition to be worked during application with slower penetration, thereby enhancing the perception of emollience and hydration.< / w>

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular makeup and / or care for keratinous materials, comprising at least: - a retinoid, in particular retinol; - bisabolol; - 4-t-butylcyclohexanol; - niacinamide; - D-panthenol; and said composition further comprising at least glycerol.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising from 0.02% to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3.0% by weight, in particular from 0.08% to 1.0% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of retinoid(s), in particular retinol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of bisabolol, in particular from 0.1% to 1.0% and more particularly from 0.3% to 0.6% by weight of bisabolol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01% to 5% by weight of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, in particular from 0.5% to 2% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, of 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising includes from 0.01% to 5% by weight of niacinamide, in particular from 1% to 3% by weight and more particularly from 1.5% to 3% by weight of niacinamide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.01 to 5% by weight of D-panthenol, in particular from 0.4% to 1% by weight of D-panthenol and more particularly from 0.5% to 1% by weight of D-panthenol, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate compound and at least one salt of ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, preferably in a tetra mass ratio di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl hydroxycinnamate / ethylenediamine disuccinic acid salt between 1.5 and 5, especially between 2.5 and 4.

5.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition for skincare and / or makeup, preferably for skincare, of keratinous materials.

10. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for, preferably caring for, keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined according to any one of the preceding claims.

11. A method according to the preceding claim, wherein said composition is applied to sensitive skin.