Cosmetic composition comprising at least one vegetable oil, trihydroxystearin and a pigmentary coloring matter
A cosmetic composition with glyceryl trihydroxystearate and vegetable oil addresses stability and application issues, offering a stable, non-sticky, and easy-to-apply solution for skin and lips with high natural content.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2022012321
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2022-11-25
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-17
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-11-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions with high vegetable oil content and pigments face stability and application issues, such as stickiness, shininess, and difficulty in re-homogenization, while also lacking significant natural raw material content.
A cosmetic composition comprising glyceryl trihydroxystearate and at least 50% vegetable oil, with a viscosity of less than 1 Pa.s, that is stable, non-sticky, and easily re-homogenizable, containing pigmentary coloring matter for application on skin and lips.
The composition provides a stable, non-sticky, and satisfactory finish, allowing easy application on skin and lips with a high content of natural raw materials.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising at least one vegetable oil, trihydroxystearin and a pigmentary coloring matter
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a makeup and / or care composition intended to be applied to the skin, lips or appendages of human beings such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails, comprising glyceryl trihydroxy stearate, at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one vegetable oil and at least one pigmentary coloring matter. It also relates to a process for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks, in particular the lips and / or cheeks, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.
[0002] Cosmetic compositions intended for care and / or makeup, in particular for the lips, have been known for a very long time and come in increasingly varied forms, ranging from viscous fluid type formulas such as glosses, to solid compositions in the form of a stick, supported or not, compositions in the form of a pencil, or even compositions stored in pots.
[0003] Historically, lip compositions were generally anhydrous, but in recent years, lip makeup compositions have appeared in the form of emulsions.
[0004] In order to further diversify the product range, transparent anhydrous liquid formulas, more fluid than classic glosses, have appeared on the market, including high oil contents.
[0005] However, due to the very nature of this type of composition, it is complex to introduce sufficient quantities of pigments to obtain compositions which remain stable or easily re-homogenizable before application, easy to apply in comfortable and non-sticky deposits.
[0006] Similarly, in the case of application to the cheeks, it is desirable to obtain makeup and / or care compositions (for example of the blush type) which are non-sticky, non-shiny, and have a satisfactory finish.
[0007] There is therefore a need for makeup compositions which can be used both on the skin, for example the cheeks, and the lips, which are not sticky and which are easy to apply. However, difficulties are encountered with this type of composition, in particular because the vegetable oil content is very high, and because the composition contains particles, in particular coloring materials such as pigments.
[0008] However, it is desirable to obtain compositions which can be easily re-homogenized before application, without loss of their usage properties.
[0009] Furthermore, the formulation of cosmetic products comprising significant levels of natural or naturally-derived raw materials represents one of the new challenges in meeting consumer expectations. It is therefore desirable that the proposed compositions allow for the retention of a significant level of natural or naturally-derived raw materials.
[0010] The present invention therefore aims to provide a solution to the above problems.
[0011] The inventors have developed a fluid colored composition, the oily phase of which is in particular transparent or translucent, which comprises a high content of vegetable oil(s) and glyceryl trihydroxystearate, which is stable or easily rehomogenizable, easy to apply and non-sticky. This composition can in particular be applied to the skin and / or the lips and / or the cheeks. It leaves a non-sticky, non-shiny deposit, and has a satisfactory finish.
[0012] Its subject is thus a cosmetic composition, in particular for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips, comprising:
[0013] glyceryl trihydroxystearate;
[0014] at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one vegetable oil; and
[0015] at least one pigmentary coloring matter.
[0016] It also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or the cheeks, in particular the lips and / or the cheeks, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or the lips and / or the cheeks.
[0017] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is stable and non-sticky, and can be applied both to the skin, in particular the cheeks, and the lips. It is stable or easily re-homogenizable before application if necessary, without loss of its usage properties.
[0018] Finally, it includes a significant content of natural or naturally occurring raw materials.
[0019] The composition according to the invention is more particularly in a fluid form.
[0020] By “fluid” we mean in particular a composition of which it is possible to measure a viscosity, in particular according to the protocol below. Protocol for viscosity measurement:
[0021] The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 200 viscometer equipped with a suitable spindle, in particular n °2, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the composition, at a shear of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).
[0022] In particular, the viscosity at 25°C of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 1 Pa.s, preferably less than or equal to 0.7 Pa.s, and advantageously between 0.4 and 0.6 Pa.s. GLYCERYL TRIHYDROXYSTEARATE
[0023] As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises glyceryl trihydroxystearate.
[0024] This compound is a total ester of hydroxystearic acid (also called 12-hydroxystearic acid) and glycerol (therefore a triglyceride). The INCI name of this compound is TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN. It is, for example, marketed under the name Thixcin® R or Thixcin® E, by the company Elementis Specialties.
[0025] This compound is used in the present invention as a gelling agent and not as a wax. In other words, it is advantageously used, in the process for preparing the composition, at a temperature which remains lower than that of its melting temperature (around 55-60°C).
[0026] Preferably, the composition comprises between 0.5 and 4% by weight, more particularly between 1 and 4% by weight, and even more advantageously between 1.5 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. VEGETABLE OILS
[0027] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one vegetable oil.
[0028] Vegetable oils are polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.
[0029] By "non-volatile oil" is meant compounds which are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa), the vapor pressure of which at 25°C is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).
[0030] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen atom, possibly nitrogen. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.
[0031] Among the vegetable oil(s) suitable for carrying out the present invention, mention may be made of jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, DHA algae oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, polymerized linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, coconut oil, Marula oil, Camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof.
[0032] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of vegetable oils. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises castor oil, rapeseed oil and / or canola oil.
[0033] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one vegetable oil, preferably at least 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0034] Preferably, the composition comprises between 50 and 95% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, more particularly between 55 and 90% by weight, and even more advantageously between 60 and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL LIQUID COMPOUNDS
[0035] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil, non-volatile or volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone, different from the vegetable oils previously described.
[0036] By “silicone oil” is meant an oil (liquid compound at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa)), containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.
[0037] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.
[0038] Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon additional oils
[0039] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil different from the vegetable oils described previously.
[0040] For the purposes of the invention, the term “polar oil” means compounds which are liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa), comprising, in addition to carbon atoms and of hydrogen, at least one atom of oxygen or nitrogen, and preferably at least one atom of oxygen.
[0041] As polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, different from the vegetable oils described above, mention may be made of monoesters or polyesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms. In all cases, these polyesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms are different from triglycerides.
[0042] Examples that may be mentioned include mono-, di-, tri- or tetra-esters. The polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil different from the vegetable oils described above may be chosen, for example, from:
[0043] * monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters, of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 17, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate.Preferably, these are esters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, Ri and R2 being such that Ri + R2 is >17. Even more particularly, the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total. Preferred monoesters include isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate;
[0044] * diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. It is possible in particular to use diesters of dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate, or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold under the commercial reference DERMOL DGDIS by the company Alzo);
[0045] * triesters, in particular comprising between 25 and 80 carbon atoms in total, preferably from 25 to 70 carbon atoms, alone or in mixtures, in particular such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, such as triisostearyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate; triglycerides of C8-C60 acids, preferably C8-C40, in particular saturated, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, triglycerides of C18-36 acid, glyceryl triisostearate (triisotearin), 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol triglyceride. Note that caprylic / capric acid triglycerides are, for example, marketed under the DUB MCT range by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, triglycerides of C18-36 acid are marketed in particular under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarineries Dubois. Also suitable are triesters of polyglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, especially branched ones, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;
[0046] * tetraesters, in particular having a total carbon number of at least 35, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate, or mixtures thereof.
[0047] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil different from the vegetable oils described above, chosen from triesters comprising between 25 and 80 carbon atoms in total, preferably between 25 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, triesters of polyglycerol and branched monocarboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the content of additional polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) different from the vegetable oils described above is between 1 and 45% by weight, preferably between 5 and 40% by weight, preferably between 10 and 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0048] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of vegetable oil(s) and additional polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) represents at least 50% by weight, more particularly at least 60% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably between 50 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 60 and 97% by weight, and even more advantageously between 75 and 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0049] According to a particularly advantageous variant of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of vegetable oils, preferably a mixture of castor oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, and caprylic / capric triglycerides.
[0050] Additional non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils
[0051] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from liquid compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0052] More particularly, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin such as, for example, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28, squalane, in particular of vegetable origin, or paraffin oils. Additional non-volatile silicone oils
[0053] The non-volatile silicone oils may be non-phenylated, or phenylated, whether or not comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.
[0054] The term “phenylated” specifies that said oil contains at least one phenyl radical in its structure.
[0055] The term "dimethicone fragment" designates a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom carries two methyl radicals, this group not being found at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.
[0056] Preferably, the silicones do not contain a C2-C3 alkylene oxide group, nor a glycerol group.
[0057] Among the non-volatile non-phenylated silicones, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: DIMETHICONE), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C2-C24 alkyl group, as well as their mixtures.
[0058] Among the non-volatile phenylated silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, the following compounds with INCI names may be mentioned: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and their mixtures.
[0059] As regards non-volatile phenyl silicone silicones, free of dimethicone fragment(s), mention may be made of the compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures.
[0060] Additional volatile silicone or hydrocarbon oils
[0061] As examples of volatile silicone oils, mention may be made in particular of dimethicone with a viscosity of less than 5cSt (5 x 103 mm2 / s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard), octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably apolar, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular: - branched C8-Ci6 alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane,
[0063] - linear alkanes, preferably for example such as the mixture of n-decane (CIO) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and their mixtures.
[0064] Preferably, if the composition comprises one or more silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile, and / or one or more apolar volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, their content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0065] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise any additional volatile or non-volatile silicone oil(s). ADDITIONAL SOLID COMPOUNDS
[0066] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one solid compound (at room temperature and atmospheric pressure), chosen more particularly from hydrocarbon waxes, from pasty hydrocarbon compounds and their mixtures. Waxes
[0067] For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" denotes a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and less than or equal to 120°C, more particularly less than or equal to 90°C.
[0068] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
[0069] The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC 2000” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis”.
[0070] The measurement protocol is as follows:
[0071] A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fat is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed.
[0072] More particularly, the wax may be chosen from polar waxes, other than glyceryl trihydroxystearate, in particular alcohol waxes; esters such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, camauba wax, rice bran wax, montan wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil; waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil; waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting temperature varies from 40 to 120°C; partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate or tribehenate, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0073] Mention may also be made of apolar hydrocarbon waxes (in other words consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms), resulting from the transformation of petroleum, such as, for example, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes (Synthetic Wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes), alone or in mixtures.
[0074] If the composition comprises at least one wax, then the content of this type of compound does not exceed 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0075] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of wax compound or silicone pasty compound. Pasty compounds
[0076] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" means a lipophilic compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have an initial melting temperature of less than 25°C.
[0077] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes. In the case of pasty compounds, however, the measurement protocol is as follows:
[0078] A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C at 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fat is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fat is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the quantity of energy required to pass the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
[0079] Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from petroleum jelly; vegetable butters, such as in particular mango, shea, cupuacu, murumuru, cocoa, babassu, jojoba butters; totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as products with the INCI name hydrogenated vegetable oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil; esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2; products with the INCI name Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides;Dimer esters of dilinoleic alcohol and / or dilinoleic acid such as, for example, products with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate), Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof. ;
[0080] If the composition according to the invention comprises them, then their content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 3% by weight, advantageously does not exceed 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of wax. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of pasty compound. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of wax and pasty compound. By "substantially free" is meant that the composition contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of wax and / or pasty compound.
[0082] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of wax. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of pasty. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of wax and pasty. PIGMENTARY COLOURING MATERIALS
[0083] The composition according to the invention comprises a pigmentary coloring matter. This coloring matter is thus chosen from powdery coloring matters such as mineral pigments, pearlescent agents, organic pigments.
[0084] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit.
[0085] The coloring materials may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 3% by weight. Mineral pigments
[0086] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0087] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.
[0088] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm. According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[50] greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm. The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range ranging from 0.01 pm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it allows determining an “effective” particle diameter.This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering . by Small Particles », Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D
[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.
[0089] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.
[0090] As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
[0091] By "mother-of-pearl" is meant colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.
[0092] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials. Mention may also be made, as examples of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride. The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.
[0093] Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any effect of color variability with the viewing angle or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.
[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
[0095] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This type pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them. The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
[0096] For the purposes of the invention, “coating” a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
[0097] The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
[0098] The surfactant may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment. The coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, optionally hot, prior to incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the composition. The coating may be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in patent US4,578,266.Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
[0099] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
[0100] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound. Organic pigments
[0101] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigmentary coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally occurring pigment.
[0102] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0103] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR 2 679 771.,
[0104] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.
[0105] The pigment can also be a lake.
[0106] By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0107] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
[0108] Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. Other products known under the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090). Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1). ADDITIONAL COLOURING MATERIALS
[0109] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one coloring material chosen from colorants, preferably liposoluble ones.
[0110] By "dyes" is meant generally organic compounds, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or in solvents miscible with the oily phase, or in an aqueous or hydroalcoholic phase, and capable of coloring. Fat-soluble colorant
[0111] By "liposoluble colorant", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.
[0112] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, Sudan brown.
[0113] As an illustration of natural fat-soluble colorants, we can particularly mention carotenes such as [3-carotene, a-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls. ALCOHOL / POLYOL
[0114] The compositions of the invention preferably comprise at least one saturated, linear or branched alcohol, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and comprising one or two hydroxyl (OH) functions.
[0115] The monohydroxylated alcohol(s) may in particular be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol or mixtures thereof.
[0116] The dihydroxylated alcohol(s) (diols) are more particularly chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.
[0117] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one diol.
[0118] If the composition includes it, the alcohol content(s) varies more particularly between 0.5 and 6% by weight, preferably between 0.8 and 5% by weight, and even more advantageously between 1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. WATER
[0119] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, particularly not exceeding 2% by weight, more particularly not exceeding 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0120] Preferably, the composition is anhydrous. ADJUVANTS
[0121] In the context of the present invention, the composition may also contain at least one adjuvant chosen from those usually used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup and / or skin and lip care compositions.
[0122] Examples include preservatives, vitamins, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, perfumes, fillers, water-soluble colorants or bactericides.
[0123] These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property sought for the composition of the invention.
[0124] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the ability of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25°C, at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.
[0125] As water-soluble dyes, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410, Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Red 40 (CI: 16035), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).
[0126] By way of illustration and non-limiting example of sources of water-soluble coloring matter(s) that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of those of natural origin, such as extracts of carmine, cochineal, beetroot, grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.
[0127] Thus, the water-soluble coloring matters are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthyn, capsorubin, flovoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, roudoxanthin, cantaxanthin, chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.
[0128] It may also be copper sulfate, iron sulfate, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, tartrazine disodium salt and fuschin disodium salt.
[0129] Some of these water-soluble coloring matters are in particular approved for food use. As a representative of these colorings, we can more particularly cite the colorings of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.
[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the water-soluble coloring matter(s) are chosen from the sodium salts of Yellow 6, Yellow 5, Red 6, Red 33, Red 40.
[0131] The product according to the invention can be advantageously used for makeup of the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks depending on the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the product of the invention can be in the form of foundation, blush, blusher, lipstick, concealer or eye contour product, eyeliner, eye shadow, body makeup product.
[0132] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:
[0133] i) a container delimiting a compartment, said container being closed by a closing element; and
[0134] ii) a composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment.
[0135] The container may be in any suitable form. It may be in particular in the form of a hot water bottle (such as those used for applying liquid lipsticks), a tube, a pot, a case, a box, or a casing. Preferably, the container is leak-proof.
[0136] The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a seal, a tear-off strip, or a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged on the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, such as a flap for example. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is placed in a roll-on type container.
[0137] The invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, in particular the lips and / or cheeks, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or the lips and / or the cheeks.
[0138] The following examples are given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the present invention. The percentages are percentages by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w / w), unless otherwise stated. Example 1 of lipstick according to the invention
[0139] The following composition according to the invention is prepared according to the following protocol:
[0140] The oils, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate and triglycerides are mixed, then heat to 55°C-60°C;
[0141] When the mixture is homogeneous at 55°C-60°C, the glyceryl trihydroxystearate is introduced with vigorous stirring;
[0142] Stir for 15 minutes, then introduce the coloring materials in the form of a pigmentary ground material (preliminary mixing of part of the oils with the pigments);
[0143] The glycols are added and mixed until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
[0144] [Tables 1] Ingredient Quantity (% w / w) Castor oil (Lipovol CO from Vantage Specialty Chemicals) 15.5 Caprylic / capric triglycerides (DUB MCT 7030 / MB from Stéarineries Dubois) 20 Canola oil (Lipex Preact from Aarhuskarlshamn) Qsp 100 Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (COSMOL 43 V from Nisshin Oillio) 12 Glyceryl trihydroxystearate (TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN - Thixcin R, from Elementis Specialties) 1.9 Colouring matters (including iron oxides) 1.2 Pentylene glycol / Caprylyl glycol 1.5
[0145] A relatively fluid composition is obtained. This composition has a viscosity, measured according to the protocol of the description, of less than 0.5 Pa.s.
[0146] This composition homogenizes before use, and does not separate instantly.
[0147] This composition can be applied to the skin, lips and / or cheeks. After application, it leaves a non-shiny or satiny and non-greasy deposit. Example 2 of comparative compositions
[0148] The following comparative compositions CCI and CC2 are prepared according to the protocol of Example 1, in which the trihydroxystearin of the oily phase of Example 1 is replaced by a mixture of GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE (and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GLYCERYL BEHENATE or by silica, as detailed in the following table.
[0149] Note that what is called the “oil phase of example 1” corresponds to all the ingredients except the glycols.
[0150] The appearance of the compositions is evaluated after their preparation.
[0151] [Tables2] Ingredient CCI Quantity (% w / w) CC2 Quantity (% w / w) Castor oil (Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil) (Lipovol CO from Vantage Specialty Chemicals) 14.8 15.5 Caprylic / capric triglycerides (DUB MCT 7030 / MB from Stearineri es Dubois) 19 20 Canola oil (Lipex Preact from Aarhuskarlshamn) Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (COSMOL 43 V from Nisshin Oillio) 11.5 12 GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE( and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GL YCERYL BEHENATE (Compritol 888 CG ATO MB from Gattefossé) 7 Silica (Silica shells from Kobo) - 3 Colouring matters (including iron oxides) 2 2 Appearance of the compositions after preparation Opaque mixture which separates phases No gelling of the oily phase Two-phase mixture No gelling
Claims
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition, in particular for makeup and / or care of the skin and / or lips, in particular the lips, comprising: glyceryl trihydroxystearate; at least 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one vegetable oil; and at least one pigmentary coloring matter, said composition being in a fluid form, with a viscosity at 25°C, less than or equal to 1 Pa.s.
2. Composition according to claim 1, which is in a fluid form, with a viscosity at 25°C, less than or equal to 0.7 Pa.s, and advantageously between 0.4 and 0.6 Pa.s.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, which comprises between 0.5 and 4% by weight of glyceryl trihydroxystearate, more particularly between 1 and 4% by weight, and even more advantageously between 1.5 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the vegetable oil is chosen from jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, DHA algae oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, polymerized linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, walnut oil Coconut, Marula oil, Camelina oil, Wheat germ oil, Corn oil, Corn germ oil, Rice bran oil, Alfalfa oil, Poppy seed oil, Pumpkin oil, Pumpkin oil, Hazelnut oil, Grapeseed oil, Blackcurrant oil, Evening Primrose oil,millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and mixtures thereof.,
5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one vegetable oil, or between 50 and 95% by weight of at least one vegetable oil, more particularly between 55 and 90% by weight, and even more advantageously between 60 and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least one additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil different from vegetable oils.
7. Composition according to claim 7, in which the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil other than vegetable oils is chosen from: * monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, in particular monoesters of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is greater than or equal to 17, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, benzoate 2-octyl dodecyl, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate,2-octyldodecyl myristate or oleyl erucate;, * diesters, in particular comprising between 18 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total, and in particular diesters of dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohols, such as preferably diisostearyl malate, or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate; * triesters, in particular comprising between 25 and 80 carbon atoms in total, preferably from 25 to 70 carbon atoms, alone or in mixtures, in particular such as triesters of tricarboxylic acid, such as triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; triglycerides of C8-C60 acids, preferably C8-C40, in particular saturated, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, triglycerides of C18-36 acids, glyceryl triisostearate (triisotearin), 2-decyl-l-tetradecanol triglyceride; or triesters of polyglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, in particular branched, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; * tetraesters, in particular having a total carbon number of at least 35, preferably ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate; * mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least one polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil other than vegetable oils chosen from triesters comprising between 25 and 80 carbon atoms in total, preferably from 25 to 70 carbon atoms, such as caprylic / capric triglycerides, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, as well as mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to one of claims 7 to 9, in which the content of additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) other than vegetable oils, is between 1 and 45% by weight, preferably between 5 and 40% by weight, preferably between 10 and 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of vegetable oil(s) and additional polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) represents at least 50% by weight, more particularly at least 60% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably between 50 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 60 and 97% by weight, and even more advantageously between 75 and 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises a mixture of vegetable oils, preferably a mixture castor oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil and caprylic / capric triglycerides.
12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, of silicone oil(s), volatile or non-volatile, and / or of apolar volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s).
13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which optionally comprises at least one wax other than glyceryl trihydroxy stearate, at a content not exceeding 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, optionally comprises at least one pasty compound at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the pigmentary coloring matter is chosen from mineral pigments, nacres and organic pigments.
16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises at least one saturated, linear or branched alcohol, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and comprising one or two hydroxyl functions, preferably at least one diol, preferably in a content of between 0.5 and 6% by weight, preferably between 0.8 and 5% by weight, and even more advantageously between 1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which comprises less than 5% by weight of water, particularly less than 2% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition is anhydrous.
18. Cosmetic assembly comprising: i) a container delimiting a compartment, said container being closed by a closing element; and ii) a composition according to one of the preceding claims arranged inside said compartment.
19. Method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks, in particular the lips and / or cheeks, in which one applies the composition according to one of claims 1 to 17 to the skin and / or the lips and / or the cheeks.