Cosmetic composition for skin regeneration comprising flax extract, pea extract and lupin extract.

FR3143371B1Active Publication Date: 2026-04-10LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
LOREAL SA
Filing Date
2022-12-20
Publication Date
2026-04-10

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions fail to effectively maintain skin homeostasis and regeneration, particularly in addressing signs of aging such as loss of elasticity, firmness, and hydration, while also meeting consumer demands for environmentally friendly ingredients.

Method used

A composition comprising a synergistic combination of flax, pea, and lupine extracts, each at specific concentrations, promotes skin regeneration by stimulating epidermal cell proliferation and dermal matrix production, without using controversial ingredients like EDTA, silicone compounds, or parabens.

Benefits of technology

The composition demonstrates a synergistic effect in improving skin firmness, elasticity, and hydration, reducing signs of aging, and maintaining skin homeostasis, with pleasant organoleptic properties and environmental compatibility.

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Abstract

A cosmetic composition for skin regeneration comprising a flax extract, a pea extract, and a lupin extract. The present invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, especially for the care of keratinous materials, comprising at least one flax extract present in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said composition, at least one pea extract, and at least one lupin extract. It also relates to a cosmetic use and process comprising the implementation of such a composition. Figure for the abstract: None
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Description

Description Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition for skin regeneration comprising a flax extract, a pea extract and a lupin extract. Technical field

[0001] = The present invention relates to the field of care of keratin materials, in par- particular anti-aging care of keratin materials, and aims in particular to improve the appearance of said keratin materials.

[0002] = By “keratin materials” within the meaning of the present invention, we mean: in particular the skin, lips and / or eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or lips, and preferably the skin of the body and / or face, and more preferably the face.

[0003] — The skin is the body's first barrier to the external environment. The skin thus constitutes a barrier against external aggressions, in particular chemical, mechanical or infectious, and as such a certain number of reactions of defense against environmental factors (climate, ultraviolet rays, tobacco, etc.) and / or xenobiotics, such as microorganisms, occur at its level.

[0004] — Human skin is made up of several compartments, three of which cover the whole body, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, the dermis, and a deep compartment, the hypodermis.

[0005] — In particular, both compartments, epidermal and dermal, are involved in the process of tissue repair or skin regeneration process.

[0006] More specifically, the migration, proliferation as well as the differentiation of keratin- tinocytes are located within the epidermal compartment. The epidermis is a keratinizing multi-stratified squamous epithelium that is constantly renewing itself. The ke- Ratinocytes therefore constitute the main epidermal cell population and are res- responsible for maintaining the epithelial structure as well as its barrier function. The epidermis rests on an acellular basement membrane, called the dermal- epidermal, which ensures cohesion with the dermis.

[0007] — The epidermis is made up of several layers of cells, the deepest of which is the basal layer made up of undifferentiated cells. Over time, these cells will differentiate and migrate towards the surface of the epidermis, constituting the dif- different layers of it, until forming corneocytes on the surface of the epidermis called enucleated, which make up the horny layer called stratum corneum, and which are dead cells that are eliminated by desquamation. This surface loss is compensated by the migration of cells from the basal layer to the surface of the epidermis. It is about the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin. The dermal compartment, on the other hand, includes the dermis, which is a compressible and elastic connective tissue of mesodermal origin, mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix consisting of fibrous proteins (collagens and elastin), and non-fibrous proteins (proteoglycans and glycoproteins). The dermis is a nourishing tissue for the epidermis but it also plays a fundamental role in the development and growth of the epidermis, as well as in its differentiation. Thus, proliferation, fibroblast synthesis, and remodeling of the extracellular matrix take place within the dermal compartment. In addition, fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix influence the mechanical properties of the skin, particularly its elasticity, tone, and firmness. Fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix also influence skin density. Skin homeostasis, and in particular the epidermis, results from a finely regulated balance between the processes of proliferation and differentiation of skin cells. These proliferation and differentiation processes are perfectly regulated: they participate in the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant thickness of the skin, and in particular a constant thickness of the epidermis. This skin homeostasis also plays a role in maintaining the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its firmness, tone and / or elasticity. This skin homeostasis can be altered by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones, etc.), or environmental factors (UV stress, pollution, oxidative stress, irritant stress, etc.). In particular, it has been observed that skin aging is accompanied by a phenomenon of continuous decline in the ability to maintain homeostasis and the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin. Indeed, over time, the regenerative potential of the epidermis becomes less important: the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, leading in particular to a slowdown and / or a decrease in epidermal renewal. Thus, the absence of re-epithelialization of damaged skin leads to an alteration of the skin barrier function which can result in particular in a hydration disorder, an alteration of the radiance of the complexion and the appearance of roughness on the skin. Cell renewal then no longer compensates for the loss of cells eliminated on the surface, which leads to atrophy of the epidermis and / or a reduction in the thickness of the skin and / or a loss of elasticity and / or tone and / or firmness of the skin and / or the formation of wrinkles or fine lines. These clinical signs are visible on keratinous materials, particularly on the skin of the face and / or neck, but also on the skin of the body, particularly on the in areas with a loss of firmness and / or elasticity such as the stomach and / or thighs. It is then appropriate to seek to maintain the homeostasis of the skin. It is also appropriate to seek to improve the regeneration and / or renewal of the skin. Prior technique In order to maintain skin homeostasis and regeneration, it has already been proposed to introduce into a cosmetic composition active ingredients having an effect on the stratum corneum participating in the maintenance of the functions of the epidermis, in particular with a view to combating the signs of aging. Plant extracts are commonly used in the prior art, in particular for their skin regeneration action. For example, FR 2 778 565 describes the use of a lupin seed extract for the regeneration of the skin's barrier function in order to combat environmental aggressions. Similarly, pea extract has been described in particular in application KR10-1220239 for skin regeneration. Applications WO 2014 / 174220 and FR 2 982 487 describe the use of at least one active ingredient derived from flax capable of acting on the papillary dermis, for the preparation of compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, intended to combat skin aging. Statement of the invention There remains a need to improve homeostasis and enhance skin regeneration and / or renewal. There also remains a need to implement a composition in the cosmetic fields, comprising at least one pea extract, in association with at least one flax extract and at least one lupin extract, and to take advantage of the properties of these active ingredients when applying said composition to keratin materials. There also remains a need to have compositions compatible with current consumer requirements, particularly from an environmental point of view. The invention aims precisely to meet these needs. Summary of the invention Thus, according to a first of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, comprising: - at least one flax extract present in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said composition; - at least one pea extract; and - at least one lupin extract. The inventors surprisingly observed a synergistic effect on skin regeneration from the combination of at least one flax extract, one pea extract and one lupin extract. Indeed, as can be seen from the examples below, such an association was tested on 4 markers of skin regeneration. Notably, cytokeratin-19 (KRT19) is a stem cell marker, and is associated with the proliferation of keratinocytes in culture. HAS3 encodes an enzyme involved in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, which plays a major role in the re-epithelialization of keratinocyte cells and the marker CECAM6 is a protein involved in the migration of these keratinocyte cells as well as in their proliferation. Finally, the CTGF marker is a growth factor involved in healing. It particularly promotes the proliferation and matrix production of fibroblasts in the dermal compartment. A composition comprising a combination of extracts, as described above, has also been clinically tested and has demonstrated beneficial effects on skin regeneration and repair. Furthermore, it has been found that the compositions in accordance with the invention have organoleptic properties which are pleasant for the user. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention does not comprise controversial ingredients, and in particular does not comprise ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or one of its derivatives, nor silicone compounds, nor parabens. Thus, the compositions in accordance with the invention meet consumer requirements in terms of environmental compliance. A composition according to the invention, in particular cosmetic, and preferably is a cosmetic composition and even more preferably a cosmetic composition for topical application. Thus, the invention also relates, according to another of these aspects, to a composition which is particularly effective for stimulating epidermal renewal, in particular through the proliferation of epidermal cells. It also aims to provide a composition that promotes, restores or strengthens the homeostasis of the epidermis, particularly through the proliferation of epidermal cells. A composition according to the invention also aims to prevent and / or treat cutaneous signs of aging. A composition according to the invention makes it possible to combat the loss of barrier function, dehydration, roughness and / or lack of radiance of the skin. A composition according to the invention also makes it possible to improve the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin. The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention, to maintain homeostasis and regeneration of the skin. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process intended to maintain homeostasis and regeneration of the skin, comprising at least the topical application of a composition according to the invention. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended to maintain homeostasis and regeneration of the skin, characterized in that an effective amount of a flax extract, a pea extract and a lupin extract is applied to the skin. The present invention also relates to such a cosmetic process, characterized in that it is intended for the prevention and / or treatment of the cutaneous signs of aging. The present invention also relates to such a cosmetic process, characterized in that it is intended to combat the loss of barrier function, dehydration, roughness and / or lack of radiance of the skin. The present invention finally aims at such a cosmetic process, characterized in that it is intended to improve the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin. Other characteristics, variants and advantages of the compositions according to the invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples which follow. Detailed description According to one aspect of the present invention, a composition is distinct from a shampoo, a volumizing spray and more generally distinct from a hair product. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is a leave-in composition. By "leave-on" we mean any composition applied directly to keratin materials, in particular the skin, which does not need to be subsequently removed by rinsing with water. Flax extract, pea extract and lupin extract, which are each plant extracts, constitute the combination according to the invention. Flaxseed extract A composition according to the invention comprises at least one flax extract, in particular as defined in international application WO2008 / 043944, This extract can preferably be obtained by a process comprising steps of solubilization of flax in water, chemical and / or enzymatic hydrolysis(s). successive and / or simultaneous steps, separation(s) of the soluble and insoluble faces, inactivation(s) of / or residual enzymatic activities, preferably by heat treatment, purification(s) of the active fraction by separation(s), decantation(s), filtration(s), centrifugation(s), and concentration(s) by filtration. These steps may optionally be repeated or include intermediate steps. Additional steps may also be added to decolorize and / or stabilize the product obtained. Preferably, the term "flax" means flax seeds of the linum usitatissinum variety, reduced to powder, in the form of flour or semolina, or linseed cakes of the linum usitatissinum variety obtained after extraction of the oily part by pressing the seeds. Such an extract can be marketed, for example, under the brand name Linactyl ® by the company SILAB. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one flax extract in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, in particular ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight of dry matter, more particularly ranging from 0.002% to 1% by weight of dry matter, and even more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said composition. Pea extract Peas are annual plants of the legume family (Fabaceae), widely cultivated for their seeds, eaten as a vegetable, or used as livestock feed. The term also refers to the seed itself, which is rich in protein (25%). The genus Pisum includes several subspecies: Pisum sativum L. subsp. sativum var. sativum: garden pea, garden pea or garden pea; Pisum sativum L. subsp. elatius: wild pea; Pisum sativum L. subsp. sativum var. arvense (L.): field pea or field pea. More particularly, according to the invention, peas of the species Pisum sativum L. are used. The plant material used can be grain and preferably grain stripped of its husk by a hulling step. Pea seeds are mainly composed of storage compounds such as carbohydrates (mainly starch 30%: 50% dry weight) and proteins / polypeptides (20 to 25% of dry weight). Among these polypeptides, pea seeds contain a high content of polypeptides with anti-protease activity. In peas, the most abundant anti-protease polypeptides are of low molecular weight. The extraction methods, which in particular make it possible to obtain the corresponding peptide extract, may be conventional methods known to those skilled in the art. According to a particular embodiment, in a first step, the plant can be ground using a plant grinder. The powder thus obtained can subsequently be "delipidated" using a conventional organic solvent (such as for example an alcohol, a hexane or acetone). The extraction of polypeptides from the plant can then be carried out conventionally, the ground plant material being suspended in an aqueous solution, particularly alkaline, under controlled conditions to avoid the co-extraction of seed storage compounds (proteins and starch). These high molecular weight (>100kDa) compounds are not extracted under these conditions. The soluble polypeptide fraction can then be concentrated using ultrafiltration membrane technology and purified by removing low molecular weight (<5kDa) metabolites by diafiltration. The proteins can then be precipitated by varying the ionic strength and acidifying the medium, which allows the removal of soluble components and nucleic acids. The precipitate can then be washed using a solvent such as, for example, ethanol or methanol! and then the solvent is evaporated by vacuum drying. Alternatively, the precipitate can be dried by freeze-drying or spray-drying. The protein-rich precipitate can be redissolved in water or another solvent and then constitutes a more purified form of the extract. Extraction can also be carried out in a neutral or acidic medium. The precipitation step can then be carried out using a conventional precipitation agent such as salts, in particular sodium chloride or ammonium sulfate. The precipitate obtained can be separated from the precipitation agents by dialysis after redissolving in water or another solvent. According to one embodiment, a pea extract according to the invention can be hydrolyzed. To do this, the protein fraction isolated according to the invention can then be hydrolyzed under controlled conditions to generate soluble polypeptides and peptides. Hydrolysis is defined as a chemical reaction involving the cleavage of a molecule by water, this reaction being able to take place in a neutral, acidic or basic medium. According to a particular embodiment, the hydrolysis can be carried out chemically and / or advantageously by proteolytic enzymes. The extract thus obtained can be further purified by fractionation, in particular by a chromatographic method or purified and concentrated by a dialysis process. Any of the more or less purified forms of the extract can thus be solubilized in water or in any mixture containing water, then sterilized by ultrafiltration. In particular, the pea extract according to the invention is composed of polypeptides having a molecular weight of between 5 and 100 kDa, more particularly between 5 and 30 kDa. The pea extract according to the invention can be used in the presence of a cyclodextrin. In particular, the pea extract suitable for the invention is preferably the pea extract whose INCI name is Cyclodextrin (and) pisum sativum (pea) extract or Cyclodextrin (and) pisum sativum extract, under the brand name Proteasyl from the company BASF. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one pea extract in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, in particular ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight of dry matter, more particularly ranging from 0.002% to 1% by weight of dry matter, and even more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said composition. Lupin extract Lupins (Lupinus L.) constitute a diverse genus of the legume family, alongside chickpeas (Cicer arietinum L.), lentils (Lens culinaris), peanuts (Arachis L.), peas (Pisum sativum L.) and soybeans (Glycine max L.). Four of them have acquired agricultural importance: Lupinus (L.) mutabilis L. (Andean lupin), L. albus L. (white lupin), L. angustifolius L. (blue lupin or narrow-leaved lupin) and L. luteus L. (yellow lupin). However, the last three species mentioned are cultivated and represent the sweet lupin, such as the Ares variety, with a low alkaloid content. Lupin peptide extract can be obtained by hydrolysis of the lupin protein fraction. The hydrolysis can be carried out by any suitable means, including enzymatic hydrolysis. A process for preparing such a lupin peptide extract may in particular comprise the following steps: - preparation of a defatted and ground lupin cake or a micronized (lipidized) lupin flour, - extraction of soluble protein and ose fractions or precipitation at acid pH (4 or 5) depending on the isoelectric point, - possibly separation of the protein fraction, and - hydrolysis of the protein fraction and recovery, possibly after filtration of the protein extract. The pea extract suitable for the invention is preferably the pea extract whose INCI name is Hydrolyzed lupine protein, under the Actimp brand of Laboratoires Expansciences. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one lupin extract in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, in par- particular ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight of dry matter, more particularly ranging from 0.005% to 1% by weight of dry matter, and even more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment, a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, according to the invention, comprises at least: - a flax extract in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, in particular ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight of dry matter, more particularly ranging from 0.002% to 1% by weight of dry matter, and even more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said composition; - a pea extract in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, in particular ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight of dry matter, more particularly ranging from 0.002% to 1% by weight of dry matter, and even more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition; and - a lupin extract, in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, in particular ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight of dry matter, more particularly ranging from 0.005% to 1% by weight of dry matter, and even more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of lupin extract / pea extract is between 0.5 and 5, and preferably between 1 and 2. According to a particular embodiment, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of lupin extract / flax extract is between 0.1 and 5, and preferably between 0.2 and 2. According to a particular embodiment, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio of flax extract / pea extract is between 0.1 and 5, and preferably between 0.5 and 4. As stated previously, a composition according to the invention may further contain water. In other words, according to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention is not anhydrous. The amount of water is not limited, and may range from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 70% by weight. In particular, the water content may be between 40% and 80% by weight, in particular from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition. Alternatively, the water content may be between 20% and 70%, in particular from 25% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one C-C monoalcohol. C1-C1 monohydric alcohols contain a hydroxyl group and 2 to 4 carbon atoms. Ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, 1-butanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof can be used. The C1-C1 monohydric alcohol is preferably isopropanol. The concentration of C,-C, monoalcohol can range from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More generally, the compositions according to the invention can be characterized as containing a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium suitable for the administration of a composition by topical route, that is to say compatible with the skin. According to the invention, a physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the topical administration route. The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, aqueous gels. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. The composition may include at least one oil. Examples of oils that can be used include: - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names “Miglyol 810”, “812” and “818” by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulae R,COOR; and R:OR; in which R represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and Ra represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, palmitate ethyl-2-hexyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; - fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol; - silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes and - their mixtures. In the list of oils cited above, the term "hydrocarbon oil" means any oil containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. A cosmetic composition according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used in the cosmetic field according to the applications envisaged, in particular for topical application. For topical application to keratin materials, and in particular the skin or its appendages, a composition may have the form in particular of an aqueous or oily solution or a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (oil-in-water) or vice versa (water-in-oil), or of suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency of the aqueous or anhydrous cream or gel type, or of microcapsules or microparticles, or of vesicular dispersions of the ionic and / or non-ionic type. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, and preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a milk, a lotion, in particular in the form of a spray, or a cream, and preferably in the form of a cream. The proportion of the oily phase of a composition according to the invention can range from 1% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such emulsions generally contain at least one surfactant, in particular chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic, silicone or non-ionic surfactants, used alone or as a mixture. The surfactants are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). Non-ionic surfactant According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise a surfactant, preferably a non-ionic surfactant. The non-ionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, poly(ethylene oxide) alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides, sucrose alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, polyoxyethylenated or non-polyoxyethylenated glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glycerol, and more particularly is glycerol stearate. According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-ionic surfactant chosen from oxyalkylenated alcohols, more particularly cetylstearyl alcohol / oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol, and even more particularly cetylstearyl alcohol / oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol at 30 moles EO. According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a non-ionic surfactant chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glycerol, and more particularly glycerol stearate and from oxyalkylenated alcohols, more particularly cetylstearyl alcohol / oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol, and even more particularly cetylstearyl alcohol / oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol at 30 moles EO and mixtures thereof. Anionic surfactant The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C30 fatty acids, in particular C16-C2s, in particular metal stearates and behenates and mixtures thereof. Examples of amino acid derivatives include alkali salts of amino acids, such as sarcosinates, such as lauroy! sodium sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N methyl amidopropionate, N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine triethanolamine, glutamates, such as triethanolamine mono-cocoyl glutamate, triethanolamine lauroylglutamate or sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, aspartates, such as triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate / triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate mixture, glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, citrates such as oxyethylenated coconut alcohol mono-citric acid ester (9 moles), or galacturonates such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate marketed by Soliance. Silicone surfactant The composition may also comprise at least one silicone surfactant. For example, non-ionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, may include dimethicone copolyol or dimethicone copolyol benzoate, and non-ionic surfactants with an HLB less than 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture, may include the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol. According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of silicone surfactants. A composition according to the invention may comprise a surfactant in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a known manner, the composition according to the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field such as thickeners, film-forming polymers, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring matters, plant extracts, vitamins, polyols such as, for example, glycerin, diglycerin, sugars such as sorbitol, additional cosmetic active ingredients and salts. The quantities of these different adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field considered, and for example from 0.001% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to an advantageous embodiment, the association according to the invention can be combined with one or more complementary cosmetic active ingredients. These active ingredients may be chosen from UV filters, moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, agents improving the barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidant agents, anti-aging agents other than the compounds of the invention and their mixtures. These additional active ingredients may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 7. Preferably, the pH of the composition ranges from 4 to 6. More particularly, the invention also relates to a method for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as described above. The said cosmetic treatment process for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin, is non-therapeutic. The expressions “between … and …” and “ranging from … to …”, or “at least…”, or “at least of…” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified. The following examples of compositions according to the invention are given for illustrative purposes and without limitation. The compounds are indicated by chemical name or INCI name. Examples Example 1: Milk and cream for facial and / or body care The following compositions | and 2 have been prepared. These compositions are detailed in Table 1 below. The values ​​are expressed as a percentage by weight of active ingredient, unless otherwise indicated, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Tables 1] Compounds Composition! Composition 2 {INCB name according to the invention | according to the invention | Hydrolyzed fine extract | {Linactyt from Silab at 3.3% in | 4.00 6.00 dry matter pords) Lupin extract {Actimp from Laboratoires 020 0.30 Expansions) 9.30 0.45 Pea extract (Proteasyl from | | BASF at 50% by weight of material | dried} Glycerol stearate 1.00 1.00 Cetearyl alcohol / aicoot | 30-oxyethylenated cetylstearyl | 3.00 3.00 moles OF Cetyl alcohol 1.90 1.90 BDimethicone 1.00 1.80 — Vaseline oil 8.00 6.00 Isopropyl mysristate 3.00 3.80 Antioxidant 0.05 0.05 Calcium ascorbate 3.00 FH —— Magnesium chloride 3.98 Givcérine 20.50 20.00 Isopropanol 40.00 Conservative 0.530 Water asp WHERE asp 100 Example 2: Body lotion in spray form The following composition 3 has been prepared. This composition is detailed in Table 1 below. The values ​​are expressed as a percentage by weight of active ingredient, unless otherwise indicated, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Tables 2] Compounds (INCT names} Composition 3 Fe Hydrolyzed flax extract (Linactyl de | | at Silab at 3.3% by weight of material | 2.00 dried} Lupin extract (Actimio from 0.10 Expansciences Laboratories) Extract from pots (Proteasyi from BASF 50% by weight of material 015 dried) H Antioxidant 0.05 H Isopropanoi 40.66 Water qsp 10Ù Example 3: Test of expression of KRT19 and CTGF markers in epidermal cells The expression of the genes encoding cytokeratin KRT19 and CTGF were measured by RT-qPCR, respectively in keratinocytes and fibroblasts using the SYBRgreen technique. To do this, keratinocytes and fibroblasts were seeded in 48-well plates and cultured for 72 hours with renewal of the culture medium after 24 hours of incubation. The medium was then renewed with culture medium containing or not (Control), Retinol tested at 10 uM (Reference for keratinocytes), or TGF-B tested at 10 uM (Reference for fibroblasts) or Flax extract tested at 0.4% (Linactyl from Silab at 3.3% by weight of dry matter), or Pea extract tested at 0.03% (Proteasyl from BASF at 50% by weight of dry matter), or Lupin extract tested at 0.02% (Actimp from Laboratoires Expansciences) or the combination of the 3 extracts tested respectively at 0.4%, 0.03% and 0.02%. The cells were then incubated for an additional 24 hours. At the end of the incubation, the culture media were removed, the cells were rinsed in PBS and then the mRNAs were extracted. [Tables 3] Witness | 100 36 | <0.G001 | 160 Keratinocytes Fibroblasts p-value | induction p-value | Induction | Mean | Sb Mean Control fog 35 <0.0601 160 5.5 | <0.6801 Reference Oetinoton | 98 46 <0.0001 | +858 184 [45 | <o,0001 | — Retinot os | 88 46 | <0.0001 | +858 184 | 43 | <o0nt | = IGF8) Excerpt from end v #12 I 135 | <5.2001 ] =312 #3 ] DI <6.6001 | P2 Excerpt from AS OF FRI 2018 78 | æœu | +360 [63 | eo | 4 pos Excerpt from 212 34 | <9,0001 | +2 183 | 3£ | <d.9801 | =83 pi 64 | <5.0001 | +544 252 | 58 | <9.6001 | 182 Association of extracts of sin, depoi | and fupin CD Results In keratinocytes, flax and lupin extracts tested alone stimulated KRT19 expression. In contrast, no significant effect was observed for pea extract on this marker. Thus, the effect observed with the association of the three extracts of flax, pea and lupin, is greater than the sum of the effects observed with the extracts alone (+544% compared to the control), which demonstrates a synergistic effect of this association. In fibroblasts, only lupin extract stimulates the expression of the CTGF marker. On the contrary, flax and pea extracts inhibit the expression of this marker. Similarly, the effect observed with the association of the three extracts of flax, pea and lupin, is greater than the sum of the effects observed with the extracts alone (+152% compared to the control), which demonstrates a synergistic effect to this association. As a result, the combination of flax, pea and lupin extracts helps promote the regeneration and repair of keratin materials, particularly in the skin. Example 4: Expression test of HAS3 and CECÇAM6 markers in the epidermis The expression of genes coding for hyaluronate synthase 3 (HAS3) and CEACAM6 were measured by RT-qPCR in keratinocytes using the SYBRgreen technique. To do this, keratinocytes were seeded in 48-well plates and cultured for 72 hours with renewal of the culture medium after 24 hours of incubation. The medium was then renewed with culture medium containing or not (Control), Retinol tested at 10 uM (Reference for keratinocytes) or Flax extract tested at 0.12% (Linactyl from Silab at 3.3% by weight of dry matter), or Pea extract tested at 0.009% (Proteasyl from BASF at 50% by weight of dry matter), or Lupin extract tested at 0.006% (Actimp from Laboratoires Expansciences) or the combination of the 3 extracts tested respectively at 0.12%, 0.009% and 0.006%. The cells were then incubated for an additional 24 hours. At the end of the incubation, the culture media were removed, the cells were rinsed in PBS and then the mRNAs were extracted. [Tables 4] Keratinocytes Keratinocytes — Induction Relative expression C0 > ——— | Induction | Wu 1 T6 Sb | Movenne | Sh Movenne | Treatment | Relative expression | was Relative expression 2 —_ uction — Average | Sb Average | st — Witness 190 38 198 8.4 Reference | ï | | 2586 | 21533 I +2486 1053 15.6 +955 {Rétinofà Excerpt from ; $ 151 13.5 +5 172 35 +2 din - Race of | if 28 -49 sa 24 -50 peas Mutual Aid | 172 33 12 is6 117 +80 ; A 172 5.3 +22 159 11.7 fuvin | Association | excreta of | 259 85 +159 273 82 +173 linen, polka dot | and lupine | Results In keratinocytes, flax and lupin extracts tested alone stimulated CEACAMÉ expression. In contrast, pea extract inhibited its expression. Thus, the effect observed with the association of the three extracts of flax, pea and lupin, is greater than the sum of the effects observed with the extracts alone (+159% compared to the control), which demonstrates a synergistic effect of this association. Also, only flax and lupin extracts stimulate the expression of the HAS3 marker, while pea extract inhibits the expression of this marker. The effect observed with the combination of the three extracts of flax, pea and lupin is therefore also greater than the sum of the effects observed with the extracts alone (+173% compared to the control), which demonstrates a synergistic effect of this combination. As a result, the combination of flax, pea and lupin extracts helps promote the proliferation and migration of keratinocytes and therefore promotes the regeneration of keratin materials, particularly in the skin. Example 5: Clinical and sensory data of a composition according to Pi; A composition according to the invention was clinically tested, by a sensory evaluation on a panel of women, regular consumers of cosmetic compositions, in particular anti-aging care. These regular users notably present wrinkles and / or fine lines on the face and neck, a lack of firmness, bounce and elasticity of the skin, facial ptosis, rough skin texture, brown spots, as well as a dull and uneven complexion. A composition according to the invention comprising the 3 active ingredients according to the invention, namely 4% by weight of flax extract (Linactyl from Silab at 3.3% by weight of dry matter), 0.3% by weight of pea extract (Proteasyl from BASF at 50% by weight of dry matter) and 0.2% by weight of lupin extract (Actimp from Laboratoires Expansciences) was tested on a panel of 84 women, aged 30 to 95, with all skin types and all phototypes (from I to VI); half of this panel having sensitive skin. To carry out this clinical evaluation, this panel of women carried out the following care routine: For two weeks of "wash out", they applied their usual SPF cream and every night, a light hydreane moisturizer La Roche Posay on the skin of the face and neck. Then during three months of effectiveness testing, they then applied each morning and every evening, after cleansing the skin, the composition according to the invention on the face and neck. The effectiveness of the composition according to the invention was then evaluated by a clinical rating on a 10-point scale at T=0, T= 1, 2, 4 and 12 weeks according to the criteria following: Softness of the skin; Skin firmness; Skin firming; Skin elasticity; Wrinkles (face and neck); Skin radiance; Loosening of the skin. A self-assessment questionnaire with a rating on a 5-point scale at T=0, T=1 day, T=3 days, T= 1, 2, 4, 8 and 12 weeks was also carried out. Results: For the clinical study, the results on the criteria of skin firmness, skin elasticity, the presence of wrinkles on the neck and face, as well as the criterion of skin sagging showed significant results from the second week, with a p value <0.0001. At the end of the 8th week, for example, there was a result of -21.65% for the criterion of facial wrinkles, and a result of -25.46% for the criterion of neck wrinkles compared to the clinical index of time TO. For the criterion of skin sagging, a result of -27.08% was observed from the 8th week as well. For the self-assessment questionnaire, the sensory properties of the composition according to the invention by consumers were deemed satisfactory for all criteria. For example, the sensation of reduction of signs of fatigue on the skin was not significant at time T=0, and this aspect was deemed satisfactory for an average of 92.0% of the panel after 12 weeks of application of the composition according to the invention. Similarly, 94.7% of users observed a regeneration of their skin after 12 weeks, and 96.0% observed a revitalization and overall improvement of their skin. A composition according to the invention was also clinically tested, by sensory evaluation on a panel of women, regular consumers of cosmetic compositions, in particular anti-aging care. This panel consists of 49 Asian women, aged 45 to 62, with all skin types; half of this panel also had sensitive skin. To carry out this clinical evaluation, this panel of women carried out the following care routine: For two weeks, they applied a non-drowsy cream every morning. La Roche Posay Anthelios SPF 50+ fluid and invisible perfume and all evenings, the application of a neutral moisturizing cream on the skin of the face and neck. For three months, they then applied every morning and every evening, after cleansing the skin, the composition according to the invention comprising the 3 active ingredients according to the invention, namely 4% by weight of flax extract (Linactyl from Silab at 3.3% by weight of dry matter), 0.3% by weight of pea extract (Proteasyl from BASF at 50% by weight of dry matter) and 0.2% by weight lupin extract (Actimp from Laboratoires Expansciences) on the face and the neck. The effectiveness of the composition according to the invention was then evaluated by a clinical rating on a 10-point scale at T=0, T= 1, 2, 4, 8 and 12 weeks according to the following criteria: Softness of the skin; Skin firmness; Skin firming; Skin elasticity; Wrinkles (face and neck); Skin radiance; Loosening of the skin. Results: For the clinical study, the results on the criteria of skin firmness, the presence of wrinkles on the face, as well as the criterion of skin sagging showed significant results from the fourth week, with a p value < 0.0001. For the criterion of the presence of wrinkles on the neck, significant results were observed from the second week, and results from the 8th week for the criterion of skin elasticity, with a p value < 0.0001. At the end of the 8th week, for example, we have a result of -24.29% for the criterion of wrinkles on the face, and a result of -26.45% for the criterion of wrinkles on the neck compared to the clinical index of time TO. For the criterion of skin sagging, a result of -24.54% was observed from the 8th week as well.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for the care of keratin materials, including: - at least one flax extract present in a content greater than or equal to at 0.001% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said composition ; - at least one pea extract; and - at least one lupin extract.

2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the flax extract is present in a content ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight of material dry, more particularly ranging from 0.002% to 1% by weight of matter dry, and even more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the extract of pea is present in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, in particular ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight of dry matter, more particularly ranging from 0.002% to 1% by weight of dry matter, and more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% in weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the lupin extract is present in a content greater than or equal to 0.001% by weight of dry matter, in particular ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight of dry matter, more particularly ranging from 0.005% to 1% by weight of dry matter, and even more particularly ranging from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of dry matter relative to the weight total of said composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being in the form of an aqueous or oily solution or a dispersion of the lotion or serum type, of emulsions of consistency liquid or semi-liquid of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a phase fatty in an aqueous phase or vice versa, or suspensions or emulsions of soft consistency such as cream or aqueous gel or anhydrous, or even microcapsules or microparticles, or dis- vesicular perforations of ionic and / or non-ionic type, and in particular in the form of a milk, a lotion, in particular in the form of a spray, or of a cream, and preferably in the form of a cream.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a water content ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 70% by weight, for example between 40% and 80% by weight weight, in particular 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition or between 20% and 70%, in particular from 25% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a surfactant, in particular chosen from among the am- surfactants photoresists, anionic, cationic, silicone or non-ionic, used alone or in a mixture, preferably a non-ionic surfactant, in particular chosen from alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters of glycerol, and more particularly glycerol stearate and among the oxy- alcohols alkylenated, more particularly cetylstearyl alcohol / cetyl alcohol- oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol, and more particularly cetyl alcohol stearyl / cetylstearyl alcohol oxyethylenated at 30 mol EO and their mixtures.

8. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the ten- sioactive is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in in particular ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, more particularly from 0.1% at 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic use of a composition as defined according to one of any of the preceding claims, to maintain skin homeostasis and regeneration.

10. Cosmetic treatment method for maintaining homeostasis and skin regeneration, characterized in that an effective amount of a flax extract, pea extract and lupin extract, is applied on the skin.

11. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 10, characterized in that it is intended for the prevention and / or treatment of signs aging skin.

12. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 10 or 11, ca- characterized in that it is intended to combat the loss of function barrier, dehydration, roughness and / or lack of shine of the skin.

13. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 10 or 11, ca- characterized in that it is intended to improve firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.