Perfecting complexion formula and hold

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, and (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Perfecting complexion and hold composition FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, especially for skin makeup, with a perfecting and long-lasting effect without transfer. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Prior art is known of compositions for skin and / or lips employing film-forming polymers for a long-lasting effect of makeup on the skin and / or lips.

[0003] "Wearability" refers to makeup that is still present and satisfactory at the end of the day. Good wear, for example, means a foundation that does not require touch-ups during the day. Furthermore, makeup compositions with "non-transfer" wear properties are sought, meaning that the composition, and in particular the color, does not transfer onto fabrics that come into contact with the makeup film applied to the skin (e.g., tissues, masks, clothing, etc.).

[0004] We are currently looking for compositions comprising more ingredients of natural origin, but without compromising on the sensory and hold properties of the makeup.

[0005] By “naturally sourced ingredients” we mean ingredients derived from nature but which have been physically transformed or have been extracted or chemically treated.

[0006] We are also looking for compositions that allow the deposition of a thin film with good mattifying properties, a perfecting effect, and long wear. However, the presence of solid particles (pigments and fillers), particularly in high concentrations, can affect the stability of the emulsion. Therefore, there remains a need to develop a fluid foundation composition with improved stability and good mattifying and long-lasting properties.

[0007] The Applicant has shown that the use of (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, and (ii) distinct C12-C20 polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, makes it possible, in particular, to obtain a foundation product with good mattifying and long-lasting wear without transfer, as well as good sensory properties upon application and a perfecting effect. In particular, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion providing good glide upon application, depositing a thin, second-skin-like film with a comfortable and very soft matte and perfecting finish. Description of the invention

[0008] To this end, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion is proposed, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, and

[0009] (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for making up keratinous materials, in particular skin, preferably facial and / or neck skin, comprising applying to said keratinous material at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention.

[0011] In particular, it is a makeup product for the skin of the face and / or neck, and in particular a fluid foundation. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0012] A first object of the invention is therefore a composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, and

[0013] (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0014] The water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention is a generally liquid or fluid composition.

[0015] By "liquid" we mean a fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), as opposed to so-called solid or semi-solid compositions.

[0016] According to a particular mode, the total content of non-volatile oil(s) in the composition of the invention is less than or equal to 10%, in particular less than or equal to 5% by weight, or even less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Indeed, non-volatile oils can provide smoothness and glide to the application of the film, but they will tend to reduce the durability and the non-transfer aspect desired here, which is why, if they are present in the emulsion of the invention, they are present in small quantities.

[0017] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises less than 5% by total weight of fats, in particular less than 2% by total weight of waxes and paste compounds, or is even devoid of waxes and paste compounds.

[0018] By "fatty substance" according to the invention, we mean a solid compound or one comprising a solid fraction at 25 °C. Examples include butters, waxes, pastes, and mixtures thereof.

[0019] Pasty compounds are non-crystalline fatty compounds comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. C9-C14 linear alkanes

[0020] The composition of the invention comprises at least two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms.

[0021] The presence of these two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, allows the volatility of the composition to be adjusted and optimized, enabling good placement of the composition once the makeup film is applied to the skin and controlled evaporation of the C9-C14 linear alkanes, to obtain the desired hold.

[0022] According to a particular mode, the composition comprises at least two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, selected from the group consisting of nonane, docane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane, C9-C13 alkane mixtures, C9-C12 alkane mixtures, C10-C12 alkane mixtures, C11-C13 alkane mixtures, C12-C14 alkane mixtures, and mixtures thereof.

[0023] In particular, the following C9-C14 alkanes and mixtures of alkanes will be mentioned:

[0024] - Cl 1-C13, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,

[0025] - C9-C12, C10-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT® SILK (INCI name C9-12 ALKANE), VEGELIGHT® 1214LC,

[0026] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), notably sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97,

[0027] and their mixtures.

[0028] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention shall comprise a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 alkanes.

[0029] The total content of C9-C14 alkanes will generally be from 15 to 25% by weight, preferably from 16 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0030] In particular, the content of C9-C12 alkanes will range from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the content of Cl 1-C13 alkanes will range from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0031] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises a total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes greater than the total content of linear Cl 1-C13 alkanes, in particular a total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes ranging from 1 to 3 times the total weight content of linear Cl 1-C13 alkanes relative to the total weight of linear C9-C14 alkanes. Polyglycerol and fatty acid esters

[0032] The composition of the invention further comprises at least two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated.

[0033] By 'fatty acid' in the expression esters of polyglycerol and fatty acids, means in particular C6-C30 fatty acids, especially C10-C20 and preferably C12-C20.

[0034] Examples include citric acid (C6), capric acid (C10), lauric acid (C12), myristic acid (C14), palmitic acid (C16), stearic or isostearic acid (C18), ricinoleic acid (C18), oleic acid (C18), linoleic acid (C18), and mixtures thereof.

[0035] Comme esters de polyglycérol et d’acide gras utilisés selon l’invention, on peut citer notamment les composés suivants : Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decacasterate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicocoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Didecanoate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Dilaurate, Polyglycerin-2 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Heptastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Hexaoleate,Polyglyceryl-10 Hexaoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isopalmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-5 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, , Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-3 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-8 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentalinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyrisinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquiisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-4 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-8 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stéarate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate,Polyglyceryl-10 Tetraoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Tetrastearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, et leurs mélanges. ,

[0036] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least two distinct C10-C20 polyglycerol-fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from the group consisting of Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] Examples of commercial products usable according to the invention include, in particular, products marketed under the following names: - GRANSURF from Grant Industries, INCI name Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, DEHYMULS® from BASF, INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, - DUB ISO from Stearinerie Dubois, Hostacerin® TGI, Dermol TGDIS, Dapracare® PG3DI MB, LAMEFORM® TGI, IMWITOR® PG3 DIS or PGLIS 203KC, named INCI Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Soldoc PGPR, Hydriol® PGR, Evicare® PGPR, Cithrol™ PG3PR, Akoline PGPR™, dermofeel® PGPR, or VERCAREM P3P of INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, - MAKIBASE SEB of INCI name Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate & Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, SY-GLYSTER de Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, PELEMOL® 6GPR, S Face CR-1001, NIKKOL Hexaglyn PR-15, ou SUNSOFT No.818SK-C(MB), de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, - S-FACE de Sakamoto Yakuhin kogyo, COSMOL 41V, Dermol DGMIS, Risorex PGIS21, PGLIS 102KC, Cithrol™ PG21IS, ou Risorex PGIS22 de nom INCI le Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, - OLIVEM de Aroma Zone, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl- 4 oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, NIKKOMULESE de NIKKOL GROUP (Nikko Chemicals), de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate (and) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, SALACOS PG 218, SUNSOFT Q-172Y-(G)C(MB) ou PGLOL 210KCn de nom INCI Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, - S Face O-401P, Jeechem 100, NIKKOL Tetraglyn 1-OV, Hydriol® PGHO.4, Hydriol® PGO, Hydriol® PGLO.4, Hydriol® PGMO.4, DUROSOFT® PG4-O, ou Protachem™ 100, de nom INCI Polyglyceryl- 4 oleate, - et leurs mélanges.

[0038] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one ester of polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids, and one ester of polyglycerol and non (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids.

[0039] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, chosen from the group consisting of: - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate (combination of the two); - Polyglyceryl-4 oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (combination of the two); - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (combination of the two); - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; and mixtures thereof,

[0040] preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

[0041] Thus, according to a particular and preferred mode, it comprises a polyglycerol and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acid ester and a polyglycerol and non-hydroxy fatty acid ester (poly)hydroxylated, preferably a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and a Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

[0042] The total content of polyglycerol ester(s) and possibly (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids in the composition of the invention shall in particular range from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] In particular, the total content of polyglycerol esters and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids will generally range from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0044] The total content of polyglycerol esters and non-(poly)hydroxylated fatty acids will generally range from 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0045] Thus, according to a particular method, the composition of the invention comprises: i. A mixture of linear C9-C14 alkanes comprising at least one mixture of linear Cl 1-C13 alkanes and one mixture of linear C9-C12 alkanes, in a total content greater than or equal to 12%, preferably ranging from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, ii. An emulsifying system, in a content ranging from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising one of the following combinations: - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate; - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate and Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate; And - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate,

[0046] preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3

[0047] Diisostearate, and i. pigments and fillers,

[0048] the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0049] According to a preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises: i. a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of Cl1-C13 alkanes, ii. a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, and a Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, and iii. pigments and fillers,

[0050] the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0051] and preferably with a C9-C12 alkane content greater than the C11-C13 alkane content and a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate content greater than the Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate content

[0052] Thus, according to a particular and preferred method, the composition of the invention comprises: i. A linear C9-C12 alkane mixture, in particular in a content of 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a linear Cl1-C13 alkane mixture, in particular in a content of 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, ii. A Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular in a content of 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, in particular in a content of 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and iii. Pigments and fillers,

[0053] the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0054] and preferably with a C9-C12 alkane content greater than the C11-C13 alkane content and a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate content greater than the Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate content. Pigments and Fillers

[0055] The composition of the invention further comprises pigments and fillers.

[0056] The pigments and fillers may or may not be surface-treated to facilitate their solubilization in the aqueous or oily phase of the emulsion. In particular, the pigments are dispersed in the oily phase of the invention.

[0057] By "pigments" we mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit.

[0058] According to a particular method, the pigment(s) are notably chosen from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), mother-of-pearl or pearlescent pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Among the "mineral pigments", examples include titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), possibly surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; and ferric blue.

[0060] Among the "organic pigments", one can cite, for example, the pigments D & C red no. 19; D & C red no. 9; D & C Red no. 22; D & C Red no. 21; D & C Red no. 28; D & C Yellow no. 6; D & C orange no. 4; D & C orange no. 5; D & C Red no. 27; D & C red no. 13; D & C Red no. 7; D & C Red no. 6; D & C Yellow no. 5; D & C Red no. 36; D & C Red No. 33; D & C orange No. 10; D & C yellow No. 6; D & C Red No. 30; D & C red No. 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lacquers.

[0061] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least iron oxides.

[0062] Advantageously, the pigments are surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent for improved dispersion in the oil phase. The hydrophobic treatment agent is notably selected from the group consisting of metallic soaps, N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; diisostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof, in particular N-acylated amino acids or their salts.

[0063] In particular, the pigments are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 12% to 25% by weight, preferably from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Charges

[0064] The composition of the invention further comprises one or more fillers to provide a matte finish and a perfecting effect to the foundation.

[0065] The term "fillers" refers to particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the composition medium. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to impart a mattifying effect. The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape: platelet, spherical, or oblong.

[0066] Thus, the charge(s) according to the invention are chosen in particular from: cellulose powders, lauroyl lysine, boron nitride powders, silica powders, starch powders, calcium carbonate, clays,

[0067] and mixtures thereof.

[0068] According to a particular method, the charge or charges according to the invention are chosen from the group consisting of silica powders, cellulose powders, and their mixtures, in particular silica powders.

[0069] Like the pigments above, the filler(s) may or may not be treated to facilitate their dispersion in the aqueous or oily phase of the composition.

[0070] According to a particular method, the filler(s) are dispersed in the oily phase of the composition. They are then advantageously treated with a lipophilic agent such as those described for the pigments above.

[0071] The total content of fillers according to the invention shall in particular range from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0072] The aqueous phase of the composition comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

[0073] The water content will generally range from 25 to 45% by weight, in particular from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0074] The term 'water-soluble solvent' according to the invention means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure). Examples include:

[0075] - lower C1-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and their mixtures, preferably ethanol;

[0076] - C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, preferably C3-C5 glycols;

[0077] - C2-C32 polyols such as glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylenes glycols, and their mixtures,

[0078] and their mixtures.

[0079] It may also include hydrophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

[0080] Thus, a cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one water-soluble solvent selected from lower C1-C5 monoalcohols, C2-C8 glycols preferably in C3-C5, C2-C32 polyols, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a total content of 5 to 25% by weight, in particular 8 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0081] According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention will advantageously further comprise at least polyols and / or glycols in a total content of 2 to 12% by weight, in particular 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for a moisturizing effect promoting the achievement of a radiant complexion without an oily effect.

[0082] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one or more C3-C5 glycols, preferably in a total content of 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase

[0083] The composition of the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase.

[0084] The term "oily phase" means an oil or a mixture of oils that are miscible with each other.

[0085] By "oil" is meant a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

[0086] An oily phase according to the invention comprises the linear C9-C14 alkanes described above and optionally further one or more hydrocarbon oils.

[0087] These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

[0088] By "volatile oil", according to the invention, is meant an oil that has lost more than 20% in mass of its mass at 60 minutes, according to the protocol below. The high level of volatile phase, and in particular volatile oils, allows for a light composition that is easily applied to the skin; the volatile oils contribute to the formation of the film on the skin during application, and when they evaporate, they allow the film to adhere to the skin, with a bare skin sensation, without a material effect or a mask effect on the skin.

[0089] METHODOLOGY: 20 mg of the oil to be studied is weighed onto a 5 cm x 5 cm PMMA plate using a micropipette and a precision balance. This material is spread over the entire plate with a finger. The plate is then placed in a ventilated chamber thermostatically controlled at 33°C and 50% humidity. The test is performed three times for each material. The mass loss during drying is measured after 60 minutes. The mass loss is expressed according to the following calculation:

[0090] [Math.l] mass lost —---— x 100 With mtx corresponding to the remaining mass at the measured time (t60min) and mt0 corresponding to the mass initially applied.

[0091] By "non-volatile oil", according to the invention, means an oil that does not meet the definition of volatile oil described above.

[0092] Preferably, the total content of non-volatile oil(s) in the composition of the invention is less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0093] Indeed, a low content of non-volatile oils will preserve the non-transfer effect achieved by the composition of the invention.

[0094] According to another particular mode, the oily phase shall comprise less than 5% by total weight of fats, in particular less than 2% by total weight of waxes and paste compounds, or even be devoid of waxes and paste compounds. GALENIQUE

[0095] The composition is preferably intended to be applied to the skin, in particular the skin of the face and / or neck and is in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0096] In a particular manner, the composition is in the form of a facial fluid, a foundation, a tinted base, a finisher, or a concealer. Preferably, it is a facial makeup composition, in particular a foundation.

[0097] In particular, it will be a mattifying fluid foundation (also known as 'mat') providing good coverage but with a natural makeup result and a perfecting and long-lasting effect.

[0098] By "perfecting effect" is meant that the complexion is unified and regains its natural radiance. Imperfections are corrected.

[0099] By “long-lasting effect” we mean that the makeup is still present and satisfactory at the end of the day; generally, it does not require touch-ups during the day.

[0100] By "long-lasting, transfer-free effect", we mean that the composition and in particular the color does not transfer onto fabrics that come into contact with the makeup film applied to the skin (e.g., handkerchief, mask, clothing...).

[0101] Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is a fluid foundation comprising: i. at least two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of C9-C12 linear alkanes and a mixture of Cl1-C13 linear alkanes, in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, ii. An emulsifying system, in particular Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, in a total content preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and iii. Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and fillers, in particular silica particles, in a a content preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0102] the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] The composition of the invention may also include any additive commonly used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, gelling agents, film-forming agents, preservatives, perfumes, cosmetic active agents, such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, anti-aging agents, brightening agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0105] As a lipophilic gelling agent, examples include mineral gelling agents such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite. Preferably, the bentone will be dispersed in linear C9-C14 alkanes, in particular C9-C12. COSMETIC PROCESS

[0106] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for applying makeup to the skin, preferably the skin of the face and / or neck, comprising applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined previously in the invention.

[0107] In particular, the cosmetic process according to the invention allows the deposition on the skin of a thin film like a second skin, with good mattifying and complexion perfecting effect, comfortable and very soft, with good hold, without transfer.

[0108] Embedding methods of the compositions according to the invention usable in the cosmetic process according to the invention are described above.

[0109] According to a particular method, the applied composition comprises: i. at least two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, in particular a mixture of C9-C12 linear alkanes and a mixture of Cl1-C13 linear alkanes, in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, ii. An emulsifying system, in particular Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, in a total content preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and iii. Mineral pigments, in particular iron oxides, preferably surface-treated with a lipophilic agent, in particular in a total content preferably ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and fillers, in particular silica particles, preferably in a content ranging from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0110] the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, percentages are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. EXAMPLES

[0112] Example 1: Association of polyglycerol esters and fatty acids on the stability of the emulsion

[0113] The Applicant encountered stability problems in the formulation of an emulsion according to the invention comprising at least two distinct linear alkanes each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, in a content of at least 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and pigments and fillers (solid particles), in particular at high contents (15-25% by total weight of the composition).

[0114] The emulsion stability problems manifested themselves by: - hot setting in ovens as well as at room temperature (shear-thinning texture) - a mousse-like texture and / or - a lack of adhesion to the walls, especially when hot.

[0115] Various approaches were explored to improve the stability of the emulsion, including modifying the emulsification process (rotation speed 800 to 1200 rpm), changing the nature and content of dispersing agents, or changing the nature and content of emulsifying agents. Emulsifying agents with similar HLB values ​​that impart good sensory qualities to the product were used.

[0116] The dispersing agents approach did not reveal any improvement and with regard to the emulsification process, rotation at 1000 rpm helps the stability of the emulsion, but it is the emulsifying agents approach that showed the best improvement in stability as illustrated below.

[0117] Several tests have been carried out and the example below illustrates the effect of combining two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters compared to a single polyglycerol and fatty acid ester of iso-content.

[0118] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Comparative % by weight Invention PURIFIED WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE IN C9-C12 ALKANES (VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK) 11.25 (of which 9.0 alkanes) 11.25 (of which 9.0 alkanes) C11-C13 ALKANE MIXTURE (CETIOL ULTIMATE) 6.6 6.6 C9-C12 ALKANE MIXTURE (VEGELIGHT) 3.3 3.3 POLYGLYCERYL-2- DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (DEHYMULS) 3.0 2.0 POLYGLYCERYL-3-DIISOSTEARATE (DUB ISO) - 1.0 SILICA 4.0 4.0 BARIUM SULFATE 1.0 1.0 RESIN SILICONE (TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE) 1.0 1.0 FILM-FORMING POLYMER SILICONE IN COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 2.0 2.0 GLYCEROL 2.0 2.0 PROPANEDIOL 3.0 3.0 HYDROPHOBIC-TREATED TITANIUM DIOXIDE 14.0 14.0 HYDROPHOBIC-TREATED IRON OXIDES 2.5 2.5 PIGMENT DISPERSANT 0.7 0.7 ETHANOL 5.0 5.0 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 1.4 1.4 pH ADJUSTERS 0.4 0.4 PRESERVATIVES qs Qs Stability and appearance of the composition: Unstable; Stable; Inhomogeneous and non-conforming appearance of the composition; Homogeneous and conforming appearance, good adhesion to the walls; Loss of adhesion to the walls

[0119] The compositions are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0120] 1) The pigments, some of the oils and the pigment dispersant are mixed and passed through a three-roll mill at room temperature to obtain a pigment paste; 2) the aqueous phase (water, glycols) is prepared and homogenized under RAYNERI;

[0121] 3) the oily phase is prepared and homogenized under high shear, then the paste pigment from step 1 is added to the rest of the oil phase and finally the whole is homogenized under high shear; 4) the powders (fillers) then the silicone resin pre-dispersed in a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, are added under RAYNERI to the mixture of the oil and pigment phase from step 3 and the whole is homogenized; 5) the aqueous phase is then added under RAYNERI;

[0122] 6) the aqueous phase is then gradually poured into the oily phase under RAYNERI, gradually increasing the agitation to emulsify the two phases at room temperature, and the mixture is left under agitation for about fifteen minutes.

[0123] The stability of the compositions is evaluated according to the following criteria: - 1 week alternating (12-hour cycles between -10°C and +40°C) and 50°C, and - 2 weeks alternating (12-hour cycles between -10°C and +40°C) and 50°C.

[0124] The composition is said to be 'stable' if it is stable under the conditions described above.

[0125] The results show that the composition according to the invention comprising 2% of POLYGLYCERYL-2-DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE and 1% of POLYGLYCERYL-3-DIISOSTEARATE exhibits compliant stability under the test conditions, whereas the comparative composition with 3% of POLYGLYCERYL-2-DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE alone is less stable after 1 week (inhomogeneous and non-compliant appearance, loss of adhesion to walls, etc.). These results demonstrate that the combination of two distinct polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, in particular an ester of polyglycerols and (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids and an ester of polyglycerols and non (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids, makes it possible to stabilize an emulsion according to the invention.

[0126] Example 2: Evaluation of the cosmetic properties of the emulsion

[0127] The following liquid foundation was prepared according to the protocol described in Example 1.

[0128] [Tables2] Ingredients (INCI name) % by weight Invention PURIFIED WATER Qsp 100 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE IN C9-C12 ALKANES (VEGELIGHT BENTONE SILK) 11.25 (of which 9.0 are alkanes) C11-C13 ALKANE MIXTURE (CETIOL ULTIMATE) 6.6 C9-C12 ALKANE MIXTURE (VEGELIGHT) 3.3 POLYGLYCERYL-2-DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE (D EHYMULS PGPH MB) 2.5 POLYGLYCERYL-3-DIISOSTEARATE (DUB ISO G3) 1.0 SILICA 4.0 SILICONE RESIN (TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE) 1.0 FILM-GENERATING POLYMER SILICONE IN COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 2.0 GLYCEROL 2.0 PROPANEDIOL 3.0 HYDROPHOBIC-TREATED TITANIUM DIOXIDE 14.0 HYDROPHOBIC-TREATED IRON OXIDES 2.5 PIGMENT DISPERSANTS 0.7 ETHANOL 5.0 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 1.4 pH ADJUSTERS 0.4 PRESERVATIVES Qs

[0129] After application to the facial skin, this fluid foundation forms a thin film with a good matte finish and good hold of the matte finish for up to 24 hours. Advantageously, this fluid foundation provides good hydration to the skin (better hydration than on bare skin due to its composition); it also brings luminosity and radiance to the skin; and has a non-transfer effect, resistant to pressure or rubbing.

[0130] The skin appears smoother, more hydrated, the complexion is more unified and luminous, the skin is overall enhanced after application of this perfecting and non-transfer fluid foundation.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of a liquid or fluid water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least two distinct linear alkanes, each comprising 9 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by at least two carbon atoms, (ii) an emulsifying system comprising at least two distinct polyglycerol-fatty acid esters, optionally (poly)hydroxylated, and (iii) pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition being characterized in that it comprises two distinct polyglycerol-fatty acid esters,chosen from the group consisting of: - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate - Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate - Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate and Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate - Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate and mixtures thereof, preferably Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the linear C9-C14 alkanes are selected from nonane, docane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and tetradecane, mixtures of C9-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C9-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C10-C12 alkanes, mixtures of C11-C13 alkanes, mixtures of C12-C14 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes and a mixture of C11-C13 alkanes.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes ranges from 15 to 25% by weight, preferably from 16 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises a total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes greater than the total content of linear Cl 1-C13 alkanes, in particular a total content of linear C9-C12 alkanes ranging from 1 to 3 times the total weight content of linear Cl 1-C13 alkanes relative to the total weight of linear C9-C14 alkanes.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the total content of polyglycerol esters and optionally (poly)hydroxylated fatty acids ranges from 1 to 8% by weight, in particular from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises: (i) A linear C9-C12 alkane mixture, in particular in a content of 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a linear C11-C13 alkane mixture, in particular in a content of 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, i. A Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular in a content of 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, in particular in a content of 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and ii.Pigments and fillers, the total content of linear C9-C14 alkanes being greater than or equal to 12% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably with a C9-C12 alkane content greater than the Cl 1-C13 alkane content and a Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate content greater than the Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate content.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the total content of pigments and fillers will range from 12 to 30% by weight, in particular 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is a facial fluid, a foundation, a tinted base, a 'finisher' or a concealer.

10. A cosmetic method for making up keratinous materials, in particular skin, preferably facial and / or neck skin, comprising applying to said keratinous material at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.