COMPOSITION COMPRISING A SPECIAL SILICONE EMULSION, AN AMPHOTERIC OR CATIONIC VINYL POLYMER, SURFACTANTS AND AN ACRYLIC COPOLYMER
A composition with anionic and amphoteric surfactants, associative polymers, and silicone emulsion addresses the issues of reduced foam and greasiness in cosmetic treatments, offering improved hair feel and cleansing efficacy.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-02-15
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-26
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for keratinous fibers, particularly hair, suffer from reduced foam quality due to the presence of fatty substances, leading to a greasy feel and inadequate cleansing, while also failing to enhance properties like softness, smoothness, and manageability.
A composition comprising anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, anionic associative polymers, amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymers, and an oil-in-water silicone emulsion with specific particle size and emulsifier mixtures, which generates a pleasant creamy texture and abundant foam without excessive fatty substances.
The composition improves hair feel by providing a smooth, non-greasy, and revitalized texture, enhances styling ease, and ensures thorough cleansing with long-lasting benefits.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR SILICONE EMULSION, A POLYMER AMPHOTERIC OR CATIONIC VINYL, SURFACTANTS AND AN ACRYLIC COPOLYMER
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition for the treatment of keratinous fibers, and in particular human keratinous fibers such as hair, which comprises at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one anionic (meth)acrylic associative polymer, at least one amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymer and a specific oil-in-water silicone emulsion.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers.
[0003] It is common to use detergent cosmetic compositions such as shampoos and shower gels, primarily based on surfactants, to wash keratinous materials, particularly hair and skin. These compositions are applied to the keratinous materials, which are preferably wet, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands or a washcloth, after rinsing with water, removes the various types of dirt initially present on the hair or skin.
[0004] These compositions contain significant levels of "detergent" surfactants, which, in order to formulate cosmetic compositions with good detergent power, must in particular give them good foaming power.
[0005] Surfactants useful for this purpose are generally of the anionic, non-ionic and / or amphoteric type, and in particular of the anionic type.
[0006] In parallel, in order to obtain a composition with a creamy texture, which is sought after by consumers, fatty substances such as fatty acids and fatty alcohols are commonly used in detergent compositions.
[0007] However, these fatty substances have a negative impact on the foam. The presence of fatty substances in the detergent composition significantly reduces the quantity and quality of the foam generated.
[0008] Furthermore, oil-based compositions tend to leave a surface feeling perceived by users as greasy, heavy, and insufficiently clean. They are generally not satisfactory for cleansing hair.
[0009] There is therefore a real need to offer compositions, such as com- Cosmetic and / or revitalizing positions for keratin fibers, and in particular human keratin fibers, that address the drawbacks described above, namely those that effectively remove dirt and excess sebum and enhance the cosmetic properties of said fibers, such as softness, smoothness, manageability, and detangling. These cosmetic properties can also be long-lasting.
[0010] It is interesting to propose compositions with a pleasant cream texture and capable of generating a good amount of foam, while having a low amount of non-silicone fatty substances, preferably low amounts of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols (or even none at all).
[0011] These objectives are achieved with the present invention, one subject of which is a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising: a. at least one anionic surfactant; b. at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant; c. at least one anionic associative polymer containing one or more motifs acrylics and / or methacrylics; d. at least one amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymer; and e. an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm and comprising: f. a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa·s at 25 °C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa·s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg KOH per gram of amino silicone, g. a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and h. of water.
[0012] It has been noted that the composition according to the invention, when applied to keratinous fibers, in particular to human keratinous fibers such as hair, leads to an improvement in the condition and quality of the hair, in terms of hair feel (e.g. smooth feel, soft feel, revitalized feel, non-greasy, non-loaded) and ease of styling (e.g. combing, detangling, desirable volume, suppleness, less frizz).
[0013] In particular, it has been observed that keratinous fibers, especially hair, treated with the composition according to the invention are easier to detangle and easier to style.
[0014] In addition, the composition according to the invention has good detergent power and keratinous fibers, in particular hair, treated with the composition according to the invention are particularly clean and light.
[0015] The observed properties of the composition according to the invention are particularly durable.
[0016] In addition, it has also been observed that the composition according to the invention has a pleasant creamy texture and generates a large amount of foam.
[0017] The present invention also relates to a treatment method, in particular washing and / or revitalizing, of keratinous fibers, preferably human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising applying the composition according to the invention to keratinous fibers.
[0018] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.
[0019] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: • the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be replaced by it; • the expression "between" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from" and can be replaced by it, and implies that the limits are included; • for the purposes of the present invention, the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" are intended to mean an open range which is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the limits are not included; • according to this application, the term “keratinous fibers” preferably refers to human keratinous fibers, and more preferably hair; • For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" is understood to designate a non-oxyalkylated organic compound that is insoluble in water at 30 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e., 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), i.e., it has a solubility in water of less than 5% (g of compound per mL of water), and preferably less than or equal to 1%, even more preferably less than 0.1%. For example, fatty acids and fatty alcohols are, for the purposes of the present invention, fatty substances; • the term “fatty acid” is supposed to designate a non-oxyalkylated organic acid comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms; • The term “fatty alcohol” is intended to designate a non-oxyalkylated alcohol comprising in its structure a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon; The term "associative polymer" refers to polymers that are capable, in aqueous media, of reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules. Associative polymers particularly comprise at least one hydrophilic and at least one hydrophobic portion. Thus, in particular, associative polymers comprise at least one hydrophobic group. The term "hydrophobic group" preferably means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol.It can also refer to a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example polybutadiene. Anionic surfactants
[0020] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
[0021] The term “anionic surfactant” refers to a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
[0022] In the present description, a species is said to be "anionic" when it carries at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
[0023] Anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. It goes without saying that a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
[0024] The anionic surfactants that can be used in the invention are different from the polymers c) as described below.
[0025] It is understood in this description that: • Anionic carboxylate surfactants include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ) and may optionally also include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions; • Anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise carboxylate functions; and • Anionic sulfate surfactants include at least one sulfate group but do not include carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
[0026] The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used include at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0027] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds.
[0028] The alkyl groups of these compounds comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, better still from 10 to 24 or even from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group.
[0029] These compounds are optionally polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs and even better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0030] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.
[0031] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0032] Salts of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
[0033] More preferably, the anionic surfactants are selected from among the anionic surfactants of the alkyl(ether) sulfate type, and even better from the C12-C14 alkyl (ether) sulfate salts, and in particular the lauryl ether sulfate salts.
[0034] Suitable anionic surfactants in the composition of the present invention can be oxyethylated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0035] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) e) is / are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30%, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5% to 20% by weight, even better from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0036] Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from those of the alkyl(ether) sulfate type, the one or more alkyl(ether) sulfate type surfactants are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0037] Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from the alkyl (ether) sulfate salts Ci2-CM, the one or more alkyl (ether) sulfate salts Ci2-Ci4 are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0038] Preferably, when the one or more anionic surfactants are chosen from lauryl ether sulfate salts, the one or more lauryl ether sulfate salts are present in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30%, even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, even more preferably is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, better from 5% to 20% by weight, better still from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0039] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total amount of anionic surfactant(s), in particular alkyl(ether) sulfate type surfactants, in particular alkyl(ether) sulfate salts in Ci2-Ci4 and even more particularly lauryl ether sulfate salts, is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, better greater than or equal to 7% by weight, better greater than or equal to 10% by weight, and even better from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants
[0040] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
[0041] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) which may be used in the present invention may in particular be secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0042] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are different from polymers c) and d) described below.
[0043] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is / are chosen from among (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures of these.
[0044] Preferably, the one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are present in a total quantity ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 20%, even more preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better from 1% to 10% by weight, and even better from 1.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: • one or more anionic surfactants of the alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular alkyl(ether) sulfate salts in Ci2-CM such as lauryl ether sulfate salts, and • one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants selected from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0046] Preferably, the total quantity of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (cumulative) can range from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, better from 5% to 22% by weight, even better from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] Anionic associative polymers (meth)acrylic
[0048] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic associative polymer containing one or more acrylic and / or methacrylic motifs.
[0049] Preferably, said anionic associative polymers containing one or more acrylic and / or methacrylic motifs are thickening polymers.
[0050] These anionic (meth)acrylic associative polymers according to the invention are non-silicone anionic (meth)acrylic associative polymers. In other words, the anionic (meth)acrylic associative polymers according to the invention do not contain any silicon (Si) atoms.
[0051] The anionic (meth)acrylic associative (co)polymer that can be used in the present invention can be chosen from those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic motif of the type such as an alkyl ester (Ci0-C30) of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.
[0052] More particularly, these associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymers are preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilic motif of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (VIII) below: HgC=G---C —OH(VHI)
[0053] formula in which R1 designates H or CH3, i.e. acrylic acid or methacrylic acid motifs and in which the hydrophobic motif of the alkyl ester (Cio-C3o) of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (IX) below: H?C=C—G —OR^OX) R? Ô
[0054] formula in which R1 designates H or CH3 (i.e. acrylate or methacrylate motifs), R2 designating an alkyl radical in Cio-C30 and preferably in Ci2-C22.
[0055] As alkyl esters (Ci0-C30) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to formula (IX) we may mention in particular lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
[0056] Anionic (meth)acrylic (co)polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.
[0057] The associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymers that can be used for the present invention may more particularly refer to polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: i. of acrylic acid and one or more esters of formula (X) below: HsQ=c--ç —OR4^) R' Ô
[0058] Where R3 denotes H or CH3, R4 denotes an alkyl radical comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally a crosslinking agent, for example those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C30 (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C30 (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer or i. essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the product formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.
[0059] For the purposes of the invention, the term "crosslinking agent" refers to a monomer containing a group:
[0060] and at least one other polymerizable group, the unsaturated bonds of the monomer being non-conjugated with each other.
[0061] As crosslinking agents that can be used according to the invention, particular examples include polyallyl ethers, especially polyallyl sucrose and polyallyl pentaerythritol.
[0062] Among the aforementioned associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymers above, those particularly preferred for the present invention are the products sold by Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TRI, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and, more preferably still Pemulen TRI, and the product sold by SEPC under the name Coatex SX.
[0063] As associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymers, mention may also be made of the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl ethoxylated alcohol isocyanate copolymer sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.
[0064] Other associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymers that can be used for the present invention may also be sulfonic polymers comprising at least one (meth)acrylic monomer bearing one or more sulfonic groups, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.
[0065] Said hydrophobic portion present in said sulfonic polymers which can be used for the present invention preferably comprises 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0066] Preferably, these sulfonic polymers which can be used according to the present invention are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for example Targinine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
[0067] These sulfonic polymers generally have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g / mol.
[0068] The sulfonic polymers that can be used according to the invention may or may not be crosslinked. Crosslinked polymers are preferably chosen.
[0069] When polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from among the unsaturated polyolefin compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Examples include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate diacrylate, or te- di(meth)acrylate diacrylate. traethylene glycol, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of sugar series alcohols or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allylic esters of phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0070] Methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) will be used in particular.
[0071] The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01% in mol to 10% in mol and more particularly from 0.2% in mol to 2% in mol relative to the polymer.
[0072] The (meth)acrylic monomers bearing the sulfonic group(s) of the sulfonic polymers that can be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids and N-(Ci-C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms.
[0073] (Method)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, will be used even better.
[0074] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used even more particularly.
[0075] The associative (meth)acrylic polymers that can be used for the present invention can be selected in particular from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers can also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their [3-substituted] alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0076] Associative (meth)acrylic polymers bearing one or more sul- groups fonics which can be used in a particularly preferred manner according to the invention are preferably chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0077] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their alkylated [3-substituted] derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
[0078] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750 899, in US patent 5 089 578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima: • Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, no. 40, (2000), 323-336; • Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704; • Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: sait effects on rheological behavior (Propriétés de la solution des réseaux de micelle formant par des fractions non ioniques lien de manière covalente à un polyélectrolyte : effets du sel sur le comportement rhéologique) - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, no 12, 5324-5332; • Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40(2), 220-221.
[0079] The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (XI) below: R5 (XI) CH---C .......... Y---^cH —CH (R ■ ) -O---—R6
[0080] in which R5 and R7, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y denotes O or NH; R6 denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical containing at least 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes the number of moles of alkyl oxide and ranges from 0 to 100.
[0081] The R6 radical is preferably chosen from among linear C6-C[8] alkyl radicals (e.g., n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl), or branched or cyclic C6-C[8] alkyl radicals (e.g., cyclododecane (Ci2) or adamantane (Cio)); perfluoroalkyl radicals in C6-C[8] (e.g., the group with the formula -(CH2)2-(CF2)9-CF3); the cholesterol (C27) radical or a cholesterol ester residue, for example, the cholesterol oxyhexanoate group; aromatic polycyclic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, linear alkyl radicals, and more particularly the n-dodecyl radical, are especially preferred.
[0082] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomer of formula (XI) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x > 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain preferably consists of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units, and even more particularly of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylene units generally ranges from 3 to 100, more preferably from 3 to 50, and even more preferably from 7 to 25.
[0083] Among these polymers, we can mention: • copolymers, crosslinked or not and neutralized or not, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or (C8-Ci6)alkyl(meth)acrylate units, relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899; • terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide units, as described in the US patent-5 089 578.
[0084] We can also mention copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.
[0085] Reference will be made to the copolymers consisting of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) motifs of formula (XII) below: (xn) | ch3 HH—C—GHgSOg X* OH3
[0086] where X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion;
[0087] and formula motifs (XIII) below: R5 (XIII) —CH.—C-- O=G Q—
[0088] in which x denotes an integer from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and, more preferably, from 7 to 25; R5 has the same meaning as indicated above in formula (XI) and R8 denotes a linear or branched C6-C22 alkyl and more preferably a C10-C22-
[0089] The polymers that are particularly preferred are those for which x = 25, R5 denotes methyl and R8 represents n-dodecyl; they are described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.
[0090] Polymers for which X+ designates sodium or ammonium are particularly preferred.
[0091] Preferably, the anionic (meth)acrylic associative polymers are cross-linked.
[0092] Preferably, anionic associative (meth)acrylic polymers are chosen among the C10-30 alkyl acrylate / (meth)acrylate copolymers.
[0093] More preferably, the anionic associative (meth)acrylic polymers are crosslinked and are chosen from alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers in Cl0-30 such as crosslinked acrylate / alkyl (meth)acrylate polymers in Cl0-30.
[0094] Preferably, the total amount of anionic (meth)acrylic associative polymers can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] Preferably, the total amount of C10-30 alkyl acrylate / (meth)acrylate copolymers can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] Preferably, the total amount of C10-30 alkyl acrylate / (meth)acrylate crosslinked polymers can range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0097] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total quantity of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) b) to the total quantity of anionic (meth)acrylic associative polymer(s) c) ranges from 0.1 to 100; more preferably from 0.5 to 40; even more preferably from 1 to 30; better from 1.1 to 25; even better from 2 to 20; and still better from 5 to 15.
[0098] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total amount of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) selected from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines and (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines to the total amount of C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers ranges from 0.1 to 100; more preferably from 0.5 to 40; even more preferably from 1 to 30; better from 1.1 to 25; even better from 2 to 20; and still better from 5 to 15.
[0099] Amphoteric and cationic vinyl polymers
[0100] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymer.
[0101] These amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymers preferably comprise one or more cationic or quaternized acrylamide and / or methacrylamide motifs.
[0102] These amphoteric and cationic vinyl polymers according to the invention are non-silicone amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymers. In other words, the amphoteric and cationic vinyl polymers according to the invention do not contain silicon (Si) atoms.
[0103] According to the present invention, "cationic and / or amphoteric polymer(s)" means one or more cationic polymers, one or more amphoteric polymers or a mixture of one or more cationic polymers and one or more amphoteric polymers.
[0104] According to the present invention, "vinyl" means that the polymer is derived from monomers comprising at least one vinyl monomer, preferably at least one (Metha)acrylic monomer (namely monomer derived from acrylic or metha-crylic acid, and its derivatives).
[0105] According to the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic. Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing motifs comprising primary, secondary, tertiary, and / or quaternary amine groups that may be part of the main polymer chain or be attached to a side substituent directly bonded thereto.
[0106] According to the present invention, the term "amphoteric polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and comprising anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0107] Among the cationic or amphoteric polymers that can be used, the following may be mentioned: 1. Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units corresponding to the following formula:
[0108] in which: • R3, which may be identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; • A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; • R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent a group alkyl containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms; • Ri and R2, which can be identical or different, represent an atom hydrogen or an alkyl group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as a chloride or a bromide;
[0109] The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyl groups (in CrC=), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acids, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vi-nylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
[0110] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention: • copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules, • copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy, • the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules, • Quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylami-noalkyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by ISP, for example Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937, • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylca-prolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP, • vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the copolymers sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by the company ISP, • quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dime- copolymers thylaminopropylmethacrylamide such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP, • polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisa-crylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) may be used in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in a mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by Ciba. Alternatively, a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in a mineral oil or in a liquid ester may be used. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by BASF; • Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, and preferably acrylamide cyclopolymers, such as copolymers comprising motifs corresponding to formula (II) or (III): . (OH,)k / (CH-)k 4CH>...........CR^ C(R^)-CHr HC x CH, H2G,, z CH2 (h) v- (no y r / [YES] in which: • k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; • R12 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; • Rio and Ru, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group in Ci-C6>, a hydroxyalkyl group in Ci-C5, an amidoalkyl group in Ci-C4; or alternatively R10 and Ru can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; Rio and Ru, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group in CrC4; • Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
[0112] We can mention in particular the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and acrylamide (INCI: Polyquaternium-7), notably sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR; 1. Polymers comprising in their structure: a. one or more patterns corresponding to formula (A) below: —CH^CH — 2 I NH, a. Optionally, one or more patterns corresponding to formula (B) below: —CH;—CH — " | (B) MH CH ii O
[0113] In other words, these polymers can in particular be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.
[0114] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5% in mol to 100% in mol of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95% in mol of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably from 10% in mol to 100% in mol of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90% in mol of motifs corresponding to formula (B).
[0115] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or basic medium.
[0116] The average molecular weight by weight of said polymer, measured by light scattering, can range from 1,000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0117] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and optionally motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by BASF, for example, without limitation, the products supplied under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
[0118] Preferably, the amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymers are chosen from one (or more) polymer(s) comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide motifs, and could be cationic or amphoteric.
[0119] The cationic charge density of polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide motifs may preferably be less than or equal to 6 meq / g, more preferably less than or equal to 5 meq / g, and even better less than or equal to 4 meq / g. This cationic charge density advantageously ranges from 0.5 to 6 meq / g, even better from 1 to 5 meq / g, and even more preferably from 1.5 to 4 meq / g.
[0120] Polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide units that can be used in the present invention are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least one of the motifs from the following formulas: CH.-== NH RY R—N—R, I Rs (IV)
[0121] in which: • Rb, which can be identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; • R, which may be identical or different, designates a linear or branched Cl-Cl 2 alkyl radical, preferably a linear C1-C6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals; • R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, designate a radical linear or branched Cl-Cl8 alkyl or a benzyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical; • R8 and Rç), which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl or ethyl; and • Y denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or halide, preferably a bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate anion.
[0122] More particularly, polymers comprising cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide motifs are chosen from copolymers comprising at least one motif of formula (IV) as defined above, and more preferably comprising at least one motif of formula (IV) in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear alkyl group having 3 carbon atoms and R5, R6 and R7 represent a methyl.
[0123] Polymers comprising one or more cationic or quaternized (meth)acrylamide motifs may also contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the families of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters, preferably selected from the families of acrylamide and metha-
[0124]
[0125]
[0126]
[0127] crylamides, and more preferably acrylamide or methacrylamide. Among these homo- or copolymers, we can mention: • acrylamidopropyltrimonium halide homopolymers, preferably of chloride, such as ASHLAND's N-DURHANCE A-1000 product, • copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimonium halide, preferably chloride, and acrylamide, such as the product sold under the name Salcare® SC 60 by BASF or sold under the name N-Hance SP 100 or N-Durhance AA2000 by Ashland, or the product sold under the name N-Hance 4572 (e.g., Aqualon aqua 4572 revitalizing polymer) by Ashland, namely a mixture of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and acrylamide propyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer, • vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those sold under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP, • quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dime- copolymers thylaminopropylmethacrylamide such as the product sold under the name GAFQUAT HS 100 by the company ISP. Polymers comprising one or more cationic or quatemized (meth)acrylamide motifs that can be used in the present invention can also be selected from amphoteric polymers. Amphoteric polymers can be chosen more specifically from among amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of: i. one or more motifs derived from a (meth)acrylamide type monomer, ii. one or more motifs derived from a monomer of type (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, and iii. one or more motifs derived from an acidic monomer of the (meth)acrylic acid type. Preferably, motifs derived from a (meth)acrylamide (i) type monomer are structural motifs (VI) below:
[0128] in which: Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; and R2 denotes an NR3R4 radical in which R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear alkyl radical or branched in C1-C12, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl radicals, preferably R2 designates an amino, a dimethylamino, a tert-butylamino, a dodecylamino or a -NH-CH2OH radical.
[0129] Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single motif of formula (VI).
[0130] The motif derived from a (meth)acrylamide type monomer of formula (VI) in which Ri denotes a hydrogen atom and R2 is an amino radical (NH2) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer proper.
[0131] Preferably, motifs derived from a monomer of the type (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium (ii) are structural motifs (VII) below:
[0132] in which: • Ri designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; • R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, designate a radical linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl, preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical; • n denotes an integer from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4; and • Y designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid or from a ha- logenide, preferably an anion bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, methosulfate, sulfate or phosphate.
[0133] Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single motif of formula (VII).
[0134] Among these motifs derived from a monomer of type (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium formula of (VII), those that are preferred are those derived from the methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which RI denotes a methyl radical, n is equal to 3, R5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl radical, and Y- denotes a chloride anion.
[0135] Preferably, motifs derived from a (meth)acrylic acid type monomer (iii) are motifs of formula (VIII):
[0136] in which: • Ri denotes hydrogen atony or a CH3 radical; and • R2 denotes a hydroxyl radical or an NR3R4 radical, in which R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl radical optionally substituted by a sulfonic group (-SO3H), preferably R2 designates a -NH-C(CH3)2-CH2-SO3H radical.
[0137] Preferred formula motifs (VIII) correspond to the monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamino-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
[0138] Preferably, the motif derived from a (meth)acrylic acid type monomer of formula (VIII) is that derived from acrylic acid, for which Ri designates a hydrogen atom and R2 designates a hydroxyl radical.
[0139] The (meth)acrylic acid type monomer(s) may be unneutralized or partially or totally neutralized with an organic or mineral base.
[0140] Preferably, said amphoteric polymer comprises a repetition of a single motif of formula (VIII).
[0141] Preferably, the amphoteric polymer(s) of this type comprise at least 30% by mol of motifs derived from a (meth)acrylamide (i) type monomer. Preferably, they comprise from 30% by mol to 70% by mol and more preferably from 40% by mol to 60% by mol of motifs derived from a (meth)acrylamide type monomer.
[0142] The content of motifs derived from a monomer of the type (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium (ii) may advantageously be from 10% in mol to 60% in mol and preferably from 20% in mol to 55% in mol.
[0143] The content of motifs derived from an acid monomer of the (meth)acrylic acid (iii) type may advantageously be from 1% in mol to 20% in mol and preferably from 5% in mol to 15% in mol.
[0144] Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of this type comprises: • from 30% in mol to 70% in mol and more preferably from 40% in mol to 60% in mol of motifs derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamide (i) type, • from 10% by mol to 60% by mol and preferably from 20% by mol to 55% by mol of motifs derived from a monomer of the type (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium (ü), and • from 1% in mol to 20% in mol and preferably from 5% in mol to 15% in mol of motifs derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
[0145] Amphoteric polymers of this type may also include additional motifs, other than motifs derived from a monomer of the (meth)acrylamide type, of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of the (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
[0146] However, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said amphoteric polymers are solely composed of motifs derived from monomers (i) of the (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) of the (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) of the (meth)acrylic acid type.
[0147] As examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers, mention may be made of acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary) under the name Polyquatemium 53. The corresponding products are notably sold under the names Merquat 2003 and Merquat 2003 PR by the company Nalco.
[0148] Another preferred type of amphoteric polymer is the polymer comprising a repeating: i. one or more non-ionic motifs derived from a (meth)acrylate type monomer, ii. one or more motifs derived from a (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer, and iii. one or more motifs derived from an acidic monomer of the (meth)acrylic acid type.
[0149] The (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer and the (meth)acrylic acid type monomer (monomers) (ii) and (iii) respectively) are as described above.
[0150] Nonionic monomers (i) of the (meth)acrylate type are preferably chosen from C1-C4 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates. A preferred monomer is methyl acrylate.
[0151] As particularly preferred examples of such amphoteric polymers, mention may be made of acrylic acid / methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / methyl acrylates terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the name polyquatemium 47. The corresponding products are notably sold under the names Merquat 2001 and Merquat 2001N by the Nalco company.
[0152] Cationic or amphoteric vinyl polymers d) according to the invention are of preference chosen from: • (meth)acrylamide halide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylamide chloride copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium / acrylamide chloride copolymers, • (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C6 alkyl)tri(Ci-C4 alkyl) ammonium / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic acid halide terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide / methacrylamide-midopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers, • (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C6 alkyl)tri(Ci-C4 alkyl) ammonium / (meth)acrylate (Ci-C6 alkyl) / (meth)acrylic acid halide terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / Ci-C6 alkyl (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; more preferably acrylic acid / methylacrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride / methyl acrylates terpolymers, • copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (e.g., chloride) and acrylamide, • and mixtures of these.
[0153] More preferably, the cationic or amphoteric vinyl polymers d) according to the invention are selected from: • (meth)acrylamide halide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylamide chloride copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium / acrylamide chloride copolymers, • copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (e.g., chloride) and acrylamide, • and mixtures thereof.
[0154] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of: • (meth)acrylamide halide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamide propyltrimonium chloride / (meth)acrylamide copolymers, and more preferably chloride copolymers acrylamidopropyltrimonium / acrylamide, and • copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (e.g. chloride) and acrylamide.
[0155] Preferably, the total amount of cationic or amphoteric vinyl polymer(s) d) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0156] Preferably, the total amount of cationic or amphoteric vinyl polymer(s) d), selected from (i) ammonium (meth)acrylamide halide copolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylamide chloride copolymers, and more preferably acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, (ii) diallyldimethylammonium (e.g. chloride) and acrylamide salt copolymers, and (iii) mixtures thereof, advantageously from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% in weight, and even better from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The specific oil-in-water emulsion
[0157] The composition according to the present invention comprises an oil-in-water (or silicone-in-water) emulsion having a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm and containing: • a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa·s at 25 °C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa·s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, • an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more nonionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and • water.
[0158] In oil-in-water emulsion, or silicone-in-water emulsion, one liquid phase (the dispersed phase) is dispersed in the other liquid phase (the continuous phase); in the present invention, the silicone mixture, or silicone phase, is dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase. i. trialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl
[0159] The silicone mixture comprises a trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl, preferably of formula (A):
[0160] R'3SiO(R'2SiO)pSiR'3
[0161] in which: • R', whether identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, more preferably methyl, and • p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000;
[0162] The trialkylpolysiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl (or blocked at the end or in the a,co position) according to the invention have a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s (100,000 excluded) at 25 °C, preferably a viscosity of 40,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, more preferably a viscosity of 51,000 to 70,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.
[0163] The trialkylsiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl according to the invention are preferably linear but may contain in addition to R'2SiO2 / 2 motifs (D motifs) in formula (A), RSiO3 / 2 motifs (T motifs) and / or SiO4 / 2 motifs (Q motifs), in which R', identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0164] Preferably, R', identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably CrCl8> alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals, such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals, such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals, such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals, such as n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and oc-tadecyl radicals, such as the n-octadecyl radical; alkenyl radicals, such as the vinyl and allyl radicals; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cycloopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, and methylcyclohexyl radicals; aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, and phenanthryl radicals;Alkyl radicals, such as o-, m- and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and the α- and β-phenylethyl radicals. The methyl radical is the most preferred.
[0165] Preferably, trialkylsiloxanes terminated by trialkylsilyl are PDMS (polydimethylsiloxanes or dimethicones) terminated by trimethylsilyl. i. amino silicones
[0166] The silicone mixture comprises an amino silicone which preferably has formula (B):
[0167] XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X
[0168] in which: • R, whether identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and better still methyl; • X, identical or different, is R or a hydroxyl (OH) or alkoxy group in Ci-C6; preferably X is R, namely a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and better still from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and better still the methyl; • A is an amino radical of formula -R'-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the amino protonated forms of said amino radical, in which R1 is a Ci-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2-OR-CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2, identical or different, is a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical, preferably a hydrogen atom, R3 is a Ci-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2-, and x is 0 or 1;
[0169] and • m+n is an integer from 50 to approximately 1000, preferably from 50 to 600.
[0170] Preferably, A is an amino radical of formula -Rl-[NR2-R3]xNR22, or the amino protonated forms of said amino radical, in which R1 is -CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2-, and x is 1.
[0171] Preferably, R, whether identical or different, are alkyl radicals, preferably Ci-C28 alkyl radicals, more preferably CrCi8 alkyl radicals such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, 1-n-butyl, 2-n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl and tert-pentyl radicals, hexyl radicals, such as the n-hexyl radical, heptyl radicals, such as the n-heptyl radical, octyl radicals such as the n-octyl radical and isooctyl radicals such as the 2,2,4-trimethylpentyl radical, nonyl radicals such as n-nonyl radicals, decyl radicals, such as the n-decyl radical, dodecyl radicals, such as the n-dodecyl radical, and octadecyl radicals, such as the n-Octadecyl; alkenyl radicals such as the vinyl and allyl radicals; cycloalkyl radicals, such as the cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl and methylcyclohexyl radicals;Aryl radicals, such as the phenyl, naphthyl, anthryl, and phenanthryl radicals; alkaryl radicals, such as o-, m-, and p-tolyl radicals, xylyl radicals, and ethylphenyl radicals; and aralkyl radicals such as the benzyl radical and α- and β-phenylethyl radicals. The methyl radical is preferred above all.
[0172] The amino silicones according to the invention have a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C, preferably of 1,500 to 15,000 mPa.s.
[0173] The amino silicones according to the invention have an amine index of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, preferably 3.5 to 8 mg.
[0174] The molar percentage of amine functionality is preferably in the range of about 0.3 to about 8%.
[0175] Examples of amino silicones useful in the silicone blend according to the invention include a trialkylsilyl-terminated amino silicone.
[0176] Most preferably, amino silicones are trimethylsiloxane-terminated copolymers of aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane, most preferably trimethylsilyl-dimethylsiloxane-terminated copolymers of aminoethylaminopropylmethylsiloxane. The amino radical A can be partially or totally protonated by adding acids to the amino silicone, in which the salt forms of the amino radical are obtained. Examples of acids are carboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, such as formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, pivalic acid, sorbic acid, benzoic acid, and salicylic acid. The acids are preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 2.0 mol per 1 mol of amino radical A in the amino silicone of formula (B).
[0177] The silicone mixture preferably comprises (i) one or more trialkylpolysiloxanes terminated with trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa·s at 25 °C in an amount of 70 to 90% by weight, preferably 75 to 85% by weight, and (ii) one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa·s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in an amount of 10 to 30% by weight, preferably 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the silicone mixture. - emulsifier mixture
[0178] The oil-in-water emulsion further comprises a mixture of emulsifiers including one or more non-ionic emulsifiers. It may optionally include one or more cationic surfactants.
[0179] The emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16.
[0180] Non-ionic emulsifiers may be selected from the non-ionic surfactants described below.
[0181] Reference may be made to alcohols, a-diols and alkylphenols (in Ci .20), these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively to compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0182] Reference may also be made to condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably containing 2 to 40 ethylene oxide motifs, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylated esters and preferably polyoxyethylated fatty acid esters containing 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6_24 alkyl)carbohydrate derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10.14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0183] Reference may also be made to non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type, represented in particular by the following general formula:
[0184]
[0185] R1O-(R2O)t-(G) in which: Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular from 8 to 18 carbon atoms; R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t designates a value from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4, v designates a value from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
[0186] Preferably, the alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which: Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, t denotes a number from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0, G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; the degree of polymerization, namely the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
[0187] The glucoside linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / Ci6 1,4 alkyl(poly)glycosides, and in particular decyl glucosides and caprylyl / caprylyl glucosides, are especially preferred.
[0188] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or the products sold by CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
[0189] Non-ionic emulsifiers could preferably be selected from ethoxylated aliphatic alcohols, polyoxyethylenated surfactants, carboxylic esters, polyethylene glycol esters, a sorbitol ester and their ethoxylated derivatives, fatty acid glycol esters, carboxylic amides, monoalkanolamine condensates, polyoxyethylenated fatty acid amides.
[0190] Preferably, non-ionic emulsifiers are selected from: i. Polyoxyalkylene alkyl ethers, in particular fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols of formula:
[0191] R3-(OCH2CH2)cOH
[0192] with: • R3 representing a linear or branched C8-C40 alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, and • c being an integer between 1 and 200 inclusive, preferably between 2 and 150 and more particularly between 4 and 50, most preferably between 8 and 20.
[0193] Fatty (poly)ethoxylated alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, oxyethylated with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide (1 to 30 EO); i. polyoxyalkylene (C8-C32)alkylphenyl ethers, ii. Polyoxyalkylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (C8-C32), in particular polyethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters containing preferably 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; preferably polyoxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters (C10-C24) containing preferably 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; and iii. polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (in C8-C32) containing for example 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide; preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters (in C10-C24) containing for example 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide.
[0194] Preferably, the non-ionic emulsifiers could be selected from an alkyl ether of polyalkylene glycol and alkyl esters of polyalkylene glycol; preferably of polyethylene glycol (PEG).
[0195] Some useful emulsifiers are: • polyethylene glycol octyl ether; polyethylene glycol lauryl ether; polyethylene neglycol tridecyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearyl ether; among the latter, trideceth-3, trideceth-10 and steareth-6 can be mentioned in particular. • polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol dodecylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol cetylphenyl ether; polyethylene glycol stearylphenyl ether; • polyethylene glycol sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate. • polyethylene glycol stearate, and in particular PEG-100 stearate.
[0196] Most preferably, the non-ionic emulsifiers are chosen from steareth-6, PEG-100 stearate, trideceth-3 and trideceth-10 and their mixture; preferably, all these emulsifiers are present in the emulsifier mixture.
[0197] The emulsifier mixture could include one or more cationic emulsifiers that could be selected from tetraalkyl-lammonium halides, tetraarylammonium halides, tetraalkylary-lammonium halides and their salts; quaternary ammonium compounds, including salts; preferably, the cationic emulsifiers could be selected from cetrimonium halides or behentrimonium halides, such as chloride.
[0198] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the mixture of emulsifiers in a total quantity of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0199] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises non-ionic emulsifiers in a total quantity of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 15% by weight, most preferably 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0200] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises cationic emulsifiers, where appropriate, in a total amount of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0201] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the silicone mixture in a total quantity of 40 to 60% by weight, more preferably 45 to 55% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0202] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises trialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl in a total amount of 35 to 45% by weight, more preferably 38 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0203] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises the amino silicone(s) in a total quantity of 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 8 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0204] The oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises water in an amount of 25 to 50% by weight, more preferably 30 to 45% by weight, most preferably 35 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0205] The oil-in-water emulsion could further comprise a biocide, such as phenoxyethanol, which could be present in the emulsion in an amount of 0.5 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
[0206] A method for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion preferably comprises: • a step of mixing one or more trialkylpolysiloxanes terminated with trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa·s at 25 °C and one or more amino silicones having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa·s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, at a temperature of 15 °C to 40 °C, preferably at 25 °C, to obtain a mixed silicone fluid, then • a step of adding a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, in which the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16, to the mixed silicone fluid to obtain a silicone-emulsifier mixture, then • a homogenization step of the silicone-emulsifier mixture followed by • a step of adding water, preferably semi-dried water, preferably in stages neralized, to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm.
[0207] The method for preparing the oil-in-water emulsion could further include a step of adding a biocide. The biocide could be added to protect the emulsion against microbial contamination. The amount of biocide depends on the type of biocide and the manufacturer's recommendations.
[0208] The preparation of the emulsifier mixture could be carried out by mixing one or more non-ionic emulsifiers.
[0209] The pH of the oil-in-water emulsion after neutralization (i.e., after the addition of the biocide) is preferably 4 to 6.
[0210] The oil-in-water emulsion has a particle size D50 of less than 350 nm, preferably from 100 to 300 nm, more preferably from 150 to 250 nm, even more preferably from 150 to 225 nm, and most preferably from 160 to 200 nm. This corresponds to the mean hydrodynamic diameter of the particles. The particle size D50 is expressed in volume. The particle size D50 could be measured using a ZetaSizer instrument from Malvem, UK, model Nano-ZS, which is based on the photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) method. - Particle size measurement
[0211] The emulsion particle size could be measured using a ZetaSizer instrument from Malvern, UK, model Nano-ZS, based on the photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS) method. The D50 value of the particle size (mean hydrodynamic diameter of the particles) is measured, the evaluation algorithm being 'cumulant analysis'.
[0212] For example, 0.5 g of the emulsion sample is placed in a 250 ml beaker, 100 ml of demineralized water is added, and the two are thoroughly mixed to obtain the sample test solution. The sample test solution is poured into the cuvette cell and placed in the slit of the instrument to measure the particle size of the emulsion. D50 is defined as the particle diameter value at 50% in the cumulative distribution. For example, if D50 = 170 nm, 50% of the particles in the sample are larger than 170 nm and 50% are smaller than 170 nm, or approximately 50% by volume of all droplets in the emulsion are 170 nm. - Viscosity measurement
[0213] Viscosity, in particular of silicones or emulsion, is measured at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.
[0214] For viscosities between 1,000 and 40,000 mPa.s at 25 °C: the viscosity could be measured using an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, single gap cylinder geometry: CC27 spindle and shear rate of 1 s for 2 minutes, at 25 °C.
[0215] For viscosities between 40,000 and 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C: the viscosity could be measured using an Anton Paar rheometer; model MCR101, cone 25-6 (cone-plane geometry: 25 mm dia. / cone 6°); the "zero air gap" setting being made and with a shear rate of 1 s 1 for 2 minutes, at 25 °C.
[0216] Three measurements are taken for each sample and the viscosity value is taken at 60 seconds. The products in the MCR Rheometer range operate in accordance with USP (US Pharmacopeia Convention) 912 - Rotary Rheometer Methods. - Measurement of the amine index
[0217] The amine value is determined by acid-base titration using a potentiometer [Brand: Veego; Model: VPT-MG]. 0.6 g of sample is taken into a 500 mL beaker, and a 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is added and stirred thoroughly to mix the sample; the sample solution is then titrated with 0.1 L(N) HCl solution. A blank value determination with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture is also performed. The amine value is calculated using the aforementioned potentiometer.
[0218] The amine index is calculated according to the formula:
[0219] 56.11 x (V - VBianc) x N / W mg KOH / g of sample,
[0220] In which
[0221] V = volume of HCl required in ml, Vbianc = volume of HCl for blank value (without sample) with the 1:1 toluene-butanol mixture in ml; N = Normality of HCl, namely 0.1 N, W = weight of the sample taken in grams. - HLB value
[0222] The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and designates the hydro-lipophilic ratio of a surfactant or emulsifier. In the present invention, HLB values refer to values at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure.
[0223] The HLB can be measured by experimental determination or can be calculated.
[0224] The calculation of the HLB value of a non-ionic surfactant is done according to the following equation: HLB = (E + P) / 5, E being the percentage by weight of the oxyethylene content and P being the percentage by weight of the polyhydric alcohol content, described in the publication Griffin, J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (vol.5, no.4), pages 249-256.
[0225] It can also be determined experimentally according to the book by F. Puisieux and M. Seiller entitled "Galenica 5: Dispersed systems - Volume I - surfactants and emulsions - Chapter IV - Notions of HLB and critical HLB, pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Determination of HLB by experimental means, pages 164-180".
[0226] The calculated HLB is the preferred HLB values that should be taken into account.
[0227] This calculated HLB could be defined as follows:
[0228] “HLB calculated = 20 x molar mass of the hydrophilic part / total molar mass”.
[0229] For an oxyethylenated fatty alcohol, the hydrophilic part corresponds to the oxyethylene motifs condensed on the fatty alcohol and the "calculated HLB" then corresponds to the "Griffin HLB" as defined above.
[0230] For an ester or an amide, the hydrophilic part is naturally defined as being located beyond the carbonyl group, starting with the fatty chain(s).
[0231] For ionic surfactants / emulsifiers, the HLB value of each surfactant / emulsifier can be calculated by applying Davies' formula as described in Davies JT (1957), "A quantitative kinetic theory of emulsion type, I. Physical chemistry of the emulsifying agent", Gas / Liquid and Liquid / Liquid Interface (Proceedings of the International Congress on Surface Activity): 426-438.
[0232] According to the formula, the HLB is derived by summing the hydrophilic / hydrophobic contribution offered by the structural components of the emulsifier:
[0233] HLB = (number of hydrophilic groups) - n(number of groups per CH2 group) + 7.
[0234] Approximate values of HLB for certain cationic emulsifiers are data in Table IV, in "Cationic emulsifiers in cosmetics", GODFREY, J. Soc. Cosmetic Chemists (1966) 17, pages 17-27.
[0235] When two emulsifiers A and B of known HLB are mixed for use, the HLB mixture is said to be the HLB required for the mixture. This is expressed by the equation (WAHLBA + WbHLBb) / (Wa + WB) = HLB mixture, where WA = the amount (weight) of the first emulsifier (A) used and WB = the amount (weight) of the second emulsifier (B); HLBa, HLBb = the HLB values assigned to emulsifiers A and B; HLB mixture = the HLB of the mixture.
[0236] Said oil-in-water emulsion is described for example in document WO 2017 / 108824.
[0237] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the oil-in-water emulsion e) in an amount from 0.1% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 12% by weight, better from 1% to 10%, better still from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0238] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises trialkylpolysiloxane(s) terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C in a total amount of 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, even more preferably 0.5% to 4% by weight, better 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0239] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises amino silicone(s) having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine index of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, in a total quantity of 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 3% by weight, even more preferably 0.3% to 2% by weight, better 0.4% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polysaccharides
[0240] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0241] According to the invention, the cationic polysaccharide(s) which can be used in the composition are different from cationic or amphoteric vinyl polymers d).
[0242] According to the present invention, the term "cationic polysaccharide" means any polysaccharide comprising cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not comprising anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0243] These cationic polysaccharides according to the invention are non-silicone cationic polysaccharides. In other words, the cationic polysaccharides according to the invention do not contain any silicon (Si) atoms.
[0244] Among the cationic polysaccharides that can be used according to the invention, we may mention more specifically cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0245] Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French patent 1,492,597, and one can mention the polymers sold under the name UCARE POLYMER “JR” (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or “LR” (LR 400 or LR 30M) by Dow Chemical. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Polyquaternium-10 is, for example, one of these polymers.
[0246] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4,131,576, and hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium, may be mentioned. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are, in particular, the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.
[0247] Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US patents 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, preferably Ci-C6 trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium (e.g., the chloride) may be used. Such products are notably sold under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, and JAGUAR C162 by the Rhodia company.
[0248] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is / are chosen from cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums and mixtures thereof.
[0249] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) is / are selected from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and mixtures thereof.
[0250] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium salt, in particular hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0251] Preferably, the total amount of cationic polysaccharide(s) ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferably ideally from 0.02 to 3% by weight, better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0252] Preferably, the total amount of guar gum(s) comprising cationic trial-kylammonium groups ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 3% by weight, better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0253] Preferably, the total amount of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.015 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 3% by weight, better from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0254] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 3% by weight of non-silicone fatty substance(s) or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, better 1% by weight or less, better 0.5% by weight or less, and better still, 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0255] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is free of non-silicone fats (i.e., 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition). In particular, any non-silicone fats that may be present are not added during the preparation of the composition, but correspond to any residual fats provided by the mixed ingredients.
[0256] According to the present invention, the expression "non-silicone fatty substance" is intended to designate an organic compound that is insoluble in water at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), namely, that has a solubility of less than 5 wt%, preferably less than 1 wt%; and whose structure does not include any silicon atoms, and therefore, in particular, does not include any siloxane groups. They generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms. They are generally soluble, under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, in organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. Advantageously, they are not oxyalkylated.
[0257] Examples of non-silicone fatty substances include hydrocarbons, including mineral, animal or synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, including vegetable oils, fatty acids, waxes, butters, ceramides and mixtures of these compounds.
[0258] According to the present invention, the term "fatty acid" refers to a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Fatty acids are generally neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.
[0259] According to the present invention, the term "fatty alcohol" refers to a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. Fatty alcohols are generally neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.
[0260] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than or less than 3% by weight of fatty acid(s), more preferably 2% by weight or less, better 1% by weight or less, better still 0.5% by weight or less, and even better 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0261] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of fatty acids (i.e., 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition). In particular, any fatty acid(s) that may be present are not added during the preparation of the composition, but correspond to any residual fatty acid(s) provided by the mixed ingredients.
[0262] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises 3% by weight of fatty alcohol(s) or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, better 1% by weight or less, better still 0.5% by weight or less, and even better 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0263] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention is free of fatty alcohol (i.e., 0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition). In particular, any fatty alcohol(s) that may be present are not added during the preparation of the composition, but correspond to any residual fatty alcohol(s) supplied by the mixed ingredients.
[0264] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises by weight 3% of fatty acid(s) and fatty alcohol(s) (cumulative) or less, more preferably 2% by weight or less, better less than or equal to 1% by weight, better still 0.5% by weight or less, and even better 0.1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0265] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of fatty acids and fatty alcohols (namely 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition).
[0266] Fatty substances, including fatty acids and fatty alcohols, are different from the surfactants described above.
[0267] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more polyols.
[0268] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" is intended to designate an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being optionally cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
[0269] More particularly, the polyol(s) that can be used according to the invention comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and even more preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
[0270] The polyol(s) that can be used according to the invention generally comprise at least three carbon atoms. More preferably, the polyol(s) that can be used according to the invention comprise no more than eight carbon atoms.
[0271] Preferably, said polyol(s) which may be used according to the invention are selected from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol, and are preferably selected from 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol and sorbitol, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0272] More particularly, the polyol(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from glycerol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol or a mixture of these compounds, and preferably hexylene glycol polyol, caprylyl glycol or a mixture of these compounds.
[0273] Preferably, the polyol(s) represent(s) from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0274] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water.
[0275] Water advantageously represents 30% to 95% by weight, preferably 40% to 92% by weight, more preferably 50% to 90% by weight and better 60% to 85% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
[0276] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more organic solvents other than polyols.
[0277] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) other than polyols is / are chosen from non-aromatic Cr C6 alcohols such as ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, or aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol.
[0278] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents other than polyols, the organic solvent preferably being ethanol.
[0279] When present in the composition according to the invention, the organic solvent(s) other than polyols generally represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0280] The pH of the composition of the invention is generally between 3 and 9, preferably between 4 and 6.5, even better between 4.5 and 6.
[0281] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be corrected to the desired value at by means of acidifying or alkalizing agents generally used in cosmetic compositions, or by using standard buffer systems.
[0282] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral acids, for example hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid, or organic compounds, for example compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.
[0283] Preferably, acetic acid is used as the acidifying agent.
[0284] The alkalizing agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid.
[0285] The mineral alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.
[0286] The composition according to the invention may also include one or more additives.
[0287] As additives that can be used in accordance with the invention, examples include anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, agents for preventing hair loss and / or promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins, including panthenol, sunscreen agents, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives and pigments.
[0288] A person skilled in the art shall take care to select the optional additives and their quantity so that they do not impair the properties of the composition according to the invention.
[0289] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0290] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition, more preferably a hair composition such as a hair composition for cleansing and / or revitalizing hair.
[0291] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is a shampoo, a conditioner or a hair mask.
[0292] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a cream-like texture.
[0293] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: • at least one anionic surfactant of the alkyl(ether) sulfate type, in particular a Ci2-Ci4 alkyl(ether) sulfate salt such as lauryl ether sulfate salt; • at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant selected from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures of these; • at least one anionic associative polymer (meth)acrylic, preferably chosen from C10-30 alkyl acrylate / (meth)acrylate copolymers such as C10-30 alkyl acrylate / (meth)acrylate crosslinked polymers; • at least one amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymer selected from a (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C6 alkyl)tri(Ci-C4 alkyl)ammonium / (meth)acrylamide halide copolymer, preferably a (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium / (meth)acrylamide chloride copolymer, and most preferably an acrylamidopropyltrimonium / acrylamide chloride copolymer, • an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm and comprising: • a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, • a mixture of emulsifiers comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the mixture of emulsifiers has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and • water; and • optionally at least one copolymer of diallyldimethylammonium salt (e.g. chloride) and acrylamide (in particular, Polyquatemium-7).
[0294] The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying a composition such as described above to the keratinous fibers.
[0295] Preferably, the keratinous fibers are rinsed after the application of the composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers.
[0296] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, after the application step, the composition according to the invention is removed after an optional contact time. The contact time of the composition on the keratin fibers can range from a few seconds to 15 minutes, or even better, from 5 seconds to 10 minutes, and even better, from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.
[0297] The composition could be applied to wet or dry keratinous fibers; preferably to wet keratinous fibers.
[0298] Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as described above for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, preferably hair.
[0299] In the above description, all preferred embodiments concerning the components can be used individually or in combination.
[0300] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.
[0301] EXAMPLES:
[0302] In the following examples, and unless otherwise indicated, quantities are given as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0303] Example 1: Preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion
[0304] 450 g of amino silicone fluid (copolymer) A trimethylsiloxane-aminoethyl-methylsiloxane-trimethylsiloxane polymer fluid with an amine value of 7.2 mg KOH / g of sample and a viscosity of 5600 mPa·s at 25 °C was introduced into an emulsion tank. After stirring, 1800 g of a trimethylsiloxane-trimethylsiloxane polymer fluid with a viscosity of 61500 mPa·s at 25 °C was added to the same tank while stirring. The two fluids were mixed for 2 hours at room temperature.
[0305] In a separate reservoir, 49 g of steareth-6 and 62 g of PEG-100 stearate were introduced and heated to 60 °C. The temperature was maintained until both emulsifiers became liquid. Then, 31 g of trideceth-3 and 350 g of trideceth-10 (80% active material) were added. This mixture of nonionic emulsifiers had an HLB value of 11.25.
[0306] 80 g of water and 6.2 g of glacial acetic acid were then added to the reservoir and the Mixing began. Mixing continued until the entire mass became a creamy paste. The entire paste was transferred to the emulsion tank. Homogenization was carried out for 30 minutes at room temperature. 79.6 g of demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 60 minutes. 72.7 g of demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 50 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 294.3 g of demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 180 g of demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes. 197.4 g of demineralized water were added and homogenization was carried out for 5 minutes.197.4 g of demineralized water were added and homogenized for 3 minutes. 228.5 g of demineralized water were added and homogenized for 3 minutes. Finally, 40.5 g of 2-phenoxyethanol were added as a biocide and homogenized for 3 minutes. A stable oil-in-water emulsion with a particle size of [particle size missing] was obtained. D50 of 170 nm was obtained.
[0307] Example 2:
[0308] The following composition A according to the invention and the comparative composition B were prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 1 below (% by weight of active material).
[0309] [Tables 1] Ingredients A (Invention) B (Comparative) Sodium laureth sulfate 13.9 13.9 Coco-betaine 0.3 0.3 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.7 2.7 C10-30 alkyl acrylate / crosslinked polymer 0.3 Carbomer 0.3 Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer 0.1 0.1 Polyquatemium-7 0.5 0.5 Dimethicone (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (and) PEG-100 stearate (and) Steareth-6 (and) Trideceth-3 (from Example 1) 4% emulsion, i.e., 0.5% MA of SiA + 2% MA of Si 4% emulsion, i.e., 0.5% MA of SiA + 2% MA of Si Hydroxypropyl chloride, guar hydroxypropyltriammonium 0.5, Glycol distearate 1.6, Preservatives QS, Water Qs 100, Qs 100
[0310] Protocol:
[0311] The hair strands were shampooed, rinsed with water and placed on a heating plate (30 °C). Then, 1.2 g of the test composition were applied to 3 independent hair strands (3 g, 20 cm, medium bleached hair).
[0312] Next, fingers were passed through the strand five times for five seconds. Each strand was passed between two fingers to remove excess water (1 pass).
[0313]
[0314]
[0315]
[0316]
[0317]
[0318]
[0319]
[0320]
[0321]
[0322]
[0323]
[0324]
[0325]
[0326] Each lock of hair was then wrapped around the fingers, or each lock was placed in a watch glass. Compositions A and B were applied to each strand of hair (uniformly from roots to tips). The strands were gently massaged by passing each strand approximately six times between two fingers for fifteen seconds, from roots to tips (without creating knots), in order to lather the compositions. The strands were then rinsed with tap water and fingers were run through the hair fifteen times for ten seconds. Each strand was finally passed between two fingers to remove excess water (2 passes). Each wet strand of hair was placed on a combing machine (Diastron MTT 175 from Dia-Stron Limited UK) and a comb with a sensor was placed in the hair fibers. The combing was carried out by sweeping the strand of hair from root to tip and measuring the friction force. Measurements were taken 5 times per hair strand. In total, measurements were taken 15 times per test composition. The maximum force was selected from the measured data of each strand of hair. The average value of the 5 maximum forces was calculated in gram-force (gf): 1 gf corresponds to approximately 0.0098 Newtons. The weaker the force, the easier the keratin fibers are to comb / detangle. The same protocol was repeated with the same strands, once completely dry. Test conditions: 23°C, 54% humidity Combing speed = 1500 mm / minute The results are shown in Tables 2 (dry combing) and 3 (wet combing) below. [Table 2] Dry combing Compositions Average value of the 5 maximum strengths (in gf) A (Invention) 38.79 B (Comparative) 46.07
[0327]
[0328]
[0329]
[0330]
[0331]
[0332]
[0333]
[0334]
[0335] [Table 3] Wet combing Compositions Average value of the 5 maximum strengths (in gf) A (Invention) 90.33 B (Comparative) 114.75 It is observed that composition A according to the invention offers a smoother feel, better combing and better detangling of the hair than the comparative composition B. The results are significant due to the T test (p value < 0.05). Furthermore, composition A according to the invention has a pleasant creamy texture, while the comparative composition B has an excessively liquid texture. The viscosities of the inventive and comparative compositions are measured at 25 °C using a Lamy rheological viscometer. The samples are placed in the viscosity cup, and appropriate pins are used. The pins are selected in ascending order of viscosity. For example, pins M1 and M2 are used for liquid to semi-liquid formulations, while pins M3 and M4 are used for semi-thick to thick formulations. The viscosity is measured at 30 s. The details of the viscosity results are as follows: [Table 4] Viscosity results: Composition Spindle No. Time (s) Speed (rpm) Viscosity (mPa.s) A (Invention) M4 30 200 6 430 mPa.s B (Comparative) M3 30 200 3 600 mPa.s Composition A according to the invention has a higher viscosity than the comparative composition B.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: a) at least one anionic surfactant; b) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, selected from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof; c) at least one anionic associative polymer containing one or more acrylic and / or methacrylic motifs; d) at least one amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymer in which the amphoteric or cationic vinyl polymers are selected from: - copolymers of (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C6 alkyl)tri(Ci-C4 alkyl) ammonium / (meth)acrylamide halide, preferably copolymers of (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium / (meth)acrylamide chloride, and more preferably copolymers of acrylamidopropyltrimonium / acrylamide chloride, - (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C6 alkyl)tri(Ci-C4 alkyl) ammonium / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic acid halide terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / (meth)acrylamide / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers, more preferably acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymers, - (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C6 alkyl)tri(Ci-C4 alkyl) ammonium / (meth)acrylate (Ci-C6 alkyl) / (meth)acrylic acid halide terpolymers, preferably (meth)acrylamidopropyl-trimonium chloride / Ci-C6 alkyl (meth)acrylate / (meth)acrylic acid terpolymers; more preferably acrylic acid / methylacrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride / methyl acrylates terpolymers, - copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts and acrylamide, - and mixtures thereof; and e) an oil-in-water emulsion having a particle size D50 less than 350 nm and comprising: ❖ a silicone mixture comprising (i) a trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl having a viscosity of 40,000 to less than 100,000 (ii) an amino silicone having a viscosity of 1,000 to 15,000 mPa.s at 25 °C and an amine number of 2 to 10 mg of KOH per gram of amino silicone, ❖ an emulsifier mixture comprising one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein the emulsifier mixture has an HLB value of 10 to 16, and ❖ water.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactants are selected from alkyl(ether) sulfate type anionic surfactants; preferably from C12-CM alkyl(ether) sulfate salts; even better from lauryl ether sulfate salts.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic (meth)acrylic associative polymers comprise: (a) at least one hydrophilic motif of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (VIII) below: HgC=G—C-■■■■■■ OH(VIII) R1 O formula in which R1 denotes H or CH3, and (b) at least one hydrophobic alkyl ester (Ci0-C30) motif of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponding to the monomer of formula (IX) below: HnC=C—C —ORW) 1, II R1 O formula in which R1 denotes H or CH3, R2 denoting an alkyl radical in Ci0-C30 and preferably in C[2-C22.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said trialkylpolysiloxane terminated by trialkylsilyl (i) is of formula (A): R'3SiO(R'2SiO)pSiR'3 (A) in which: - R', identical or different, is a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and - p is an integer from 500 to 2000, preferably from 1000 to 2000; and preferably is a trimethylsilyl-terminated PDMS.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which amino silicone (ii) has the formula (B): XR2Si(OSiAR)n(OSiR2)mOSiR2X (B) wherein: - R, identical or different, are a monovalent hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - X, identical or different, are R or a hydroxyl (OH) or alkoxy group in C1-C6; preferably X is R, - A is an amino radical of formula -R*-[NR2-R3-]XNR22, or the amino protonated forms of said amino radical, in which R1 is an alkylene radical in C1-C6, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2- OR -CH2 CH(CH3)CH2-; R2, identical or different, are a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in C1-C4, preferably a hydrogen atom; R3 is a Ci-C6 alkylene radical, preferably a radical of formula -CH2CH2-, and x is 0 or 1; and -m+n is an integer from 50 to about 1000, preferably from 50 to 600;preferably A is an amino radical of formula -R*-[NR2-R3 -]XNR22, or the amino protonated forms of said amino radical, in which R1 is —CH2CH2CH2- or -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-, R2 are hydrogen atoms, R3 is -CH2CH2-, and x is 1.;
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one cationic polysaccharide, and preferably selected from cationic celluloses, cationic galac-tomannan gums and mixtures thereof; preferably from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, guar gums comprising cationic triac-lammonium groups, and mixtures thereof.
7. A process for treating keratinous fibers, preferably for washing and / or revitalizing keratinous fibers, comprising applying to the keratinous fibers a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.