composition for the care of keratinous materials in hydrogel form

Abstract

Composition for the Care of Keratinous Materials in Hydrogel Form. The present invention relates to a composition for the care of keratinous materials in hydrogel form, comprising: i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; ii) at least one fatty acid polyglyceryl ester; and iii) at least one magnesium salt, wherein the weight ratio of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester to the magnesium salt ranges from 2:1 to 2:6. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for the care of keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Composition for the care of keratinous materials in hydrogel form technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a keratin treatment composition in the form of a hydrogel and a mask containing it. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for treating keratinous materials. RELATED ART

[0002] The skin is the protective barrier of the human body. It protects the inside of the body against physical damage (such as trauma) and biological damage (such as bacteria, viruses or fungi).

[0003] The skin is composed of several layers of cells that cover and protect the underlying tissues. Keratinous fibrous proteins and collagen form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers is called the stratum corneum.

[0004] The development of formulas dedicated to skin care is ongoing.

[0005] Hydrogel is a type of solid gel composed of different types of polymers, which It can hold a large amount of water. The technology is widely used as a type of medical gown to provide a soothing or healing effect on wounds.

[0006] In the cosmetic field, a hydrogel can be used as a type of substrate for sheet masks. As a substrate to be adhered to the skin, its affinity is very important. The softness of a hydrogel is a critical parameter associated with its affinity for the skin.

[0007] To improve the softness of a hydrogel, the normal approach is to decrease the polymer content. However, when the polymer content decreases, the hydrogel becomes less temperature-resistant, which leads to storage stability issues.

[0008] Therefore, there is a need for a mask to care for keratinous materials in the form of a hydrogel with improved hydrogel softness without reducing the polymer content. Summary of the invention

[0009] An object of the present invention is to provide a mask for the care of keratinous materials in the form of a hydrogel with improved softness without reducing the polymer content.

[0010] Another object of the present invention is to propose a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials.

[0011] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention proposes a keratinous material care composition in the form of a hydrogel, comprising:

[0012] i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0013] ii) at least one surfactant selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters;

[0014] iii) at least one magnesium salt,

[0015] in which the weight ratio of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester to the magnesium salt ranges from 2:1 to 2:6.

[0016] The composition according to the present invention has good softness.

[0017] The composition according to the present invention can adhere to the skin.

[0018] In a second aspect, the present invention proposes a treatment mask for keratinous materials, comprising:

[0019] i) a water-insoluble mask fabric; and

[0020] ii) the composition according to the present invention impregnated in the water-insoluble mask fabric.

[0021] In a third aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic process for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition or mask according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0022] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0023] Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

[0024] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0025] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0026] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, and unspecified features. As used in this document, the term "including" also refers to the embodiment in which no features other than those specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0027] Unless otherwise stated, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims shall be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Therefore, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified depending on the intended purpose, if applicable.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" is understood to cover human skin. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.

[0029] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise indicated, to a weight percentage.

[0030] According to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a keratinous material care composition in the form of a hydrogel, comprising:

[0031] i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0032] ii) at least one surfactant selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters;

[0033] iii) at least one magnesium salt,

[0034] in which the weight ratio of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester to the magnesium salt ranges from 2:1 to 2:6. Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0035] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic gelling agent” means a compound that is capable of gelling an aqueous phase.

[0037] The gelling agent may be soluble in water or dispersible in water.

[0038] More specifically, the hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, or a combination thereof. Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

[0039] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither existing in nature nor derived from a naturally occurring polymer.

[0040] Specifically, these polymers can be selected from modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the name Carbopol® (CTFA name: Carbomer) by Goodrich; polyacrylates, polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel™ and Norgel by Guardian or under the name Hispagel® by Hispano Chimica; poly- acrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, for example poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic) sold by Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS® (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyl-tauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS®, which are in the form of an O / W emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel™ 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / Ci3 i4 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel™ 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC; and their combinations.

[0041] Polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin

[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "of natural origin" is intended to designate polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

[0043] More specifically, these gelling agents fall into the category of polysaccharides.

[0044] In general, the polysaccharides suitable for use in the present invention can be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

[0045] Similarly, it may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.

[0046] In general, polysaccharides can be selected from those produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and their derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans and their derivatives; and their combinations.

[0047] In particular, the polysaccharides may be selected from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, locust bean gum, galactomannans such as guar gum and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, and their ionic derivatives, biopolysaccharide gums of original origin, in particular scleroglucan gums or of xanthan gum, mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfates, and their combinations. These polysaccharides can be chemically modified, notably with urea or urethane groups or by a reaction of hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation, or by several of these modifications.

[0048] Advantageously, the polysaccharides can be selected from xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, rinulin and pullulan, and combinations thereof.

[0049] In general, compounds of this type that can be used in the present invention are chosen from those described in particular in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900, and Volume 15, pp. 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E.A. MacGregor and C.T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, in the book by Robert L. Davidson entitled Title of Water-Soluble Gums and Resins published by McGraw Hill Book Company (1980) and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academie Press Inc.

[0050] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from carrageenan gum, glucomannan, xanthan gum, cellulose and its derivatives, and a combination thereof. Carrageenan

[0051] Carrageenan is a sulfated polysaccharide that forms the cell walls of various red algae, from which they can be obtained. Among these red algae, we can mention, without limitation, Kappaphycus alvarezii, Eucheuma denticulatum, Eucheuma spinosum, Chondrus crispus, Betaphycus gelatinum, Gigartina skottsbergii, Gigartina canaliculata, Sarcothalia crispata, Mazzaella laminaroides, Hypnea musciformis, Mastocarpus stellatus and Irea cordata.

[0052] Carrageenans comprise long galactan chains formed by disaccharide motifs. These polysaccharides are composed of alternating (1–3)[3-D-galactopyranose (G motif) and (1–4)α-galactopyranose (D motif) or 3,6-anhydro-α-galactopyranose (AnGal motif). Each sugar motif may be sulfated once or more at positions 2, 3, 4, or 6. Methyl and pyruvic acid groups, as well as other sugar motifs grafted onto the basic structures described above, may also be present. Carrageenans were initially subdivided into subfamilies based on their solubility in KCl, and subsequently according to the number and position of the sulfate groups and the presence of 3',6'-anhydro bridges on the galactopyranosyl residues. At least 15 carrageenans are listed, their structure depending on the original algae and the extraction method. Among the most common are The following carrageenans: u-carrageenan ((1—>3) 3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-(1—>4)-α-D-galactopyranose-6-sulfate), K-carrageenan ((1—>3) 3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-(1—>4) 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactopyranose), v-carrageenan ((1—>3) 3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-(1—>4)-α-D-galactopyranose-2,6-disulfate), r-carrageenan ((1—>3) 3-D-galactopyranose-4-sulfate-(1—>4) 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfatesulfate), X-carrageenan ((1—>3)[3-D- ga-lactopyranose-2-sulfate-( 1 —>4)- aD-galactopyranose-2,6-disulfate), 0-carrageenan ((1—>3) [3-D-galactopyranose-2-sulfate-(1—>4) 3,6 anhydro-aD-galactopyranose-2-sulfate.

[0053] The carrageenans that can be used may in particular be chosen from carrageenans of type p, K, v, l or X0, and their combinations in all proportions, preferably of type K.

[0054] The molecular weight of the carrageenans that are useful for the present invention is between 300 and 100 x 10⁶ daltons. Their molecular weight is preferably between 10 x 10³ Da and 10 x 10⁶ Da.

[0055] The sulfur content of carrageenans is preferably between 5% and 25% (calculated on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the carrageenan) and more preferably between 7% and 20%. Carrageenans may in particular have a sulfur content of about 15% to 20%.

[0056] Preferably, the carrageenans used in the invention comprise mainly kappa (K) forms, or are in kappa (K) form. The term "mainly" means that the percentage of this type of chain in the product composition is greater than or equal to 50%, this proportion being possibly greater than or equal to 80% in certain embodiments. These carrageenans may, in particular, be extracted from Chondrus crispus, such as those sold under the names Satiagum UTC 30 CARRAGEENAN lamda Cargill, Satiagum UTC 10 CAR-RAGEENAN lamda and Cargill SATIAGEL™ UHD 300 by Cargill, under the name CARRAGEENAN BLK1120 by BLG, and under the name KA120LMO by Greenfresh. Glucomannan (konjac gum)

[0057] Glucomannan is a high molecular weight polysaccharide (500,000 < Mglucomannan < 2,000,000) composed of D-mannose and D-glucose units with branching approximately every 50 or 60 units. It is found in wood, but it is also the main component of konjac gum. Konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant in the Araceae family.

[0058] The products that can be used according to the present invention are sold, for example, under the names Propol® and Rheolex® by the company Shizuzu, and under the name KONJAC FLOUR HWG1002 by BLG. Xanthan gum

[0059] Xanthan gum is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of [3-D-glucose [3(1,4)] linked, similar to cellulose. Every other glucose molecule carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a [3-D-glucuronic acid], and a terminal [3-D-mannose]. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated at carbon 6. Approximately 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The charged glucuronic and pyruvic acids are ionizable and are therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan gum (negative charge up to pH 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies depending on the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, post-fermentation conditions and purification steps.These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na+, K+ or Ca2+ ions (Satia company, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acidic form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.

[0060] Xanthan gums have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition comprising 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25 °C on a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT, at 60 rpm).

[0061] Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name Satiaxane™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name Novaxan™ by the company ADM and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco. Cellulose and derivatives

[0062] Cellulose or a derivative thereof is selected from cellulose ethers, esters and ester ethers (e.g. methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates, ethylcellulose).

[0063] Cellulose hydroxyl groups can react partially or completely with various chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having intrinsic properties. Cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

[0064] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0065] Among anionic cellulose ethers, carboxyalkyl celluloses and their salts may be mentioned. By way of example, carboxymethyl celluloses, carboxymethyl celluloses and carboxymethyl hydroxy ethyl celluloses and their sodium salts may be mentioned.

[0066] Among cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.

[0067] The quaternizing agent may, in particular, be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is rhydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.

[0068] Quatmized cellulose derivatives include, in particular:

[0069] - quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or combinations thereof,

[0070] - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at less a fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms or their combinations.

[0071] The alkyl radicals supported by the quaternized celluloses or the hydroxyethylcelluloses above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferentially designate the phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0072] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-30 fatty chains include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (Ci2 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (Ci8 alkyl) marketed by Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (Ci2 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C[8 alkyl]) marketed by Croda.

[0073] Other examples of cellulose derivatives include:

[0074] - modified celluloses with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for example, modified hydroxyethylcelluloses with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, in particular C8 22 arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (Ci6 alkyl) marketed by Aqualon, and

[0075] - celluloses modified with polyalkylene alkylphenyl ether groups glycol, such as the Amercell Polymer HM-1500 product (polyethylene glycol nonylphenyl (15) ether) marketed by the company Amerchol.

[0076] Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.) and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates.

[0077] Among the cellulose ester ethers, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates can be cited.

[0078] The cellulose-based compounds of the present invention can be selected from unsubstituted and substituted celluloses. Cellulose and derivatives are represented, for example, by products marketed under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by Akzo Nobel, under the names Methocel™ (cellulose ethers) and Ethocel™ (ethylcellulose) by Dow, and under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose™ (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetylhydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by Hercules Aqualon.

[0079] Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, or a combination thereof.

[0080] More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from carrageenan gum, glucomannan, xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose and a combination thereof.

[0081] Advantageously, the hydrophilic gelling agent is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 5% by weight, most preferably from 0.3% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. fatty acid polyglyceryl ester

[0082] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters.

[0083] For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferable that the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester have a polyglycerol fraction derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 3 to 6 glycerols, and even more preferably 5 to 6 glycerols.

[0084] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester can be selected from mono, di and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably of saturated acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms and, better still, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and oleic acid.

[0085] The fatty acid polyglyceryl ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearatePG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 diisostearate,PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate, and PG10 trioleate. ,

[0086] It is preferable to choose the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester from among:

[0087] - polyglyceryl monocaprylates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs,

[0088] - polyglyceryl monolaurates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs,

[0089] - polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs,

[0090] - polyglyceryl monooleates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs,

[0091] - polyglyceryl dioleates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs, and

[0092] - polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs,

[0093] and mixtures thereof.

[0094] More preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is chosen from polyglyceryl monocaprylates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl monolaurates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is polyglyceryl-6 caprylate.

[0096] Advantageously, the surfactant chosen from among the polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Magnesium salts

[0097] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one magnesium salt.

[0098] The magnesium salt is chosen from among the salts of an organic acid or an in acid organic, preferably salts of an inorganic acid.

[0099] Examples of organic acids include ascorbic acid, formic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, oxalic acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, glyoxylic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, sebacic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, tricarboxylic acid, glutaric acid, glucaric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, phenol sulfonic acid, salicylic acid, etc.

[0100] Examples of inorganic acids include sulfuric acid, carbonic acid, silicic acid, hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, etc.

[0101] Preferably, the magnesium salts of an inorganic acid are chosen from chlorides, sulfates, nitrates, carbonates and hydrogen carbonates, phosphates, magnesium silicates and their combinations.

[0102] Preferably, the magnesium salts of an organic acid are chosen from ascorbates, formates, acetates, glycolates, gluconates, lactates, mandelates, oxalates, maleates, malonates, glyoxylates, succinates, adipates, fumarates, sebacates, citrates, tartrates, malates, tricarboxylates, glutarates, glucarates, pyrrolidone carboxylates, phenolsulfonate, magnesium salicylates, and their combinations.

[0103] Preferably, the magnesium salt is selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium chloride and a a combination of these.

[0104] More preferably, the magnesium salt is chosen from magnesium sulfate, magnesium chloride and a combination thereof.

[0105] Advantageously, the magnesium salt is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the surfactant chosen from among the polyglyceryl esters of fatty acid on the magnesium salt ranges from 2:1 to 2:6, preferably from 2:1 to 2:5.

[0107] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the magnesium salt to the hydrophilic gelling agent is not greater than 2:3, preferably from 1:10 to 3:5. Aqueous phase

[0108] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous phase.

[0109] If present, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for example lower C2-C8 polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol.

[0110] The term "polyol" should be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for example propanediol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (namely glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

[0111] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyol, more preferably propanediol and glycerin.

[0112] If present, the aqueous phase may represent from 60% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 70% by weight to 95% by weight, and even better from 80% by weight to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0113] The composition of the present invention may include one or more active cosmetic ingredients for the care of keratinous fibers.

[0114] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the cosmetic active ingredient based on the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0115] The composition according to the present invention may also include one or more adjuvants or additives commonly used in skincare compositions keratinous fibers, for example, perfumes, preservatives and bactericides, pH regulators and mixtures thereof.

[0116] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0117] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare composition of keratinous materials in the form of a hydrogel comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0118] i) from 0.3% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from carrageenan gum, glucomannan, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose and a combination thereof;

[0119] ii) from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units; and

[0120] iii) from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one magnesium salt selected from magnesium sulfate, magnesium chloride and a combination thereof,

[0121] in which the weight ratio of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester to the magnesium salt ranges from 2:1 to 2:5. Masks

[0122] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes a treatment mask for keratinous materials, comprising:

[0123] i) a water-insoluble mask fabric; and

[0124] ii) the composition according to the present invention impregnated in the water-insoluble mask fabric. Water-insoluble mask fabric

[0125] For the purposes of the invention, the term "insoluble in water" means that the mask fabric cannot be dissolved in water and does not disintegrate when immersed in water.

[0126] A person skilled in the art can choose a suitable mask fabric and the weight ratio between the mask fabric used and the composition according to the present invention is based on the nature of the composition.

[0127] The mask fabric may be a woven, knitted, or non-woven fabric made of natural fibers such as cotton, paper pulp, bamboo, and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers, and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers. Two or more fibers selected from the above may be used in combination.

[0128] The mask fabric may consist of one or more layers. If a multi-layered fabric A multilayer fabric is used, and the material of each layer can be the same or different from the others. Multilayer fabric can be prepared by layering multiple layers made of the materials mentioned above.

[0129] Mask fabric can have a variety of shapes, depending on the intended use and the characteristics of the mask.

[0130] The mask fabric is typically designed to conform to the area of ​​skin on which topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the face, the mask fabric is designed to match the shape of the face, avoiding, if necessary, the areas of the eyes, nostrils, and mouth.

[0131] A person skilled in the art can determine the thickness and texture of the fabric of the mask according to its intended use. Method and use

[0132] The composition according to the present invention is intended for topical application and may in particular constitute a composition intended for skin care.

[0133] The composition according to the present invention is in the form of a hydrogel.

[0134] The composition according to the present invention has good softness, for example, it has a gel strength of less than 40 g as determined with a texture analyzer.

[0135] The composition according to the present invention can adhere to the skin.

[0136] According to the third aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic process for the care of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition or mask according to the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0137] In particular, keratinous materials are facial skin. EXAMPLES

[0138] The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0139] The main raw materials used, trade names and their supplier are listed in Table 1. INCI name Trade name Supplier SODIUM CITRATE TRISODIC CITRATE DIHYDRATE TSC F6000 JUNGBUNZLAUER CITRIC ACID CITRIC ACID MO NOHYDRATE BP / USP / FCC / E330 JIANGSU GUOXIN UNION ENERGY HYDROXYACETOPHENO NE 4-HYDROXYACETOPHENO NE YANTAI AURORA CHEMICAL PROPANEDIOL 1,3-PROPANEDIOL ZHANGJIAGANG GLORY CHEMICAL IND POLYGLYCERYL-6 CAPRYLATE SUNSOFT Q-8H-C TAIYO KAGAKU MAGNESIUM SULFATE RONACARE MAGNESIUM SULFATE MERCK PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SES-QUISTEARATE GLUCAMATE™ SSE-20 EMULSIFIER LUBRIZOL ZINC SULFATE ZINC SULFATE MO NOHYDRATE MACCO ORGANICS C15-19 ALKANE EMOGREEN™ L19 SEPPIC CHONDRUS CRISPUS POWDER CARRAGEENAN BLK1120 BLG GLUCOMANNAN KONJAC FLOUR HWG1002 BLG GLYCERIN ORGANIC CHEMICAL COR PORATION

[0141] Inventive Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 9

[0142] Compositions according to inventive examples (El) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC) 1-9 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents (were expressed as percentages by weight of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise stated): Components El. 1 El. 2 El. 3 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 CE. 5 CE. 6 CE. 7 CE. 8 EC.9 Sodium citrate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Citric acid 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Propanediol 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Polyglyceryl caprylate -6 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0 0.2 0.2 0 0 0 0 0.2 Magnesium sulfate 0.1 0.3 0.5 0 0.1 1 2 0.1 0.3 1 2 0 PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0 Zinc sulfate 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.5 C15-19 alkane 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Carrageenan 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 Glucomannan 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Xanthan Gum 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Glycerin 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 Water QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 QS1 00 Weight ratio of polyglyceryl caprylate-6 / magnesium sulfate: 2:1 2:3 2:5 / / 2:10 2:20 / / / / /

[0144] Preparation process:

[0145] The compositions listed above are prepared as follows, taking the composition of inventive example 1 as an example:

[0146] 1) add sodium citrate, citric acid, hydroxyacetophenone, propanediol, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, magnesium sulfate in water at 80°C with stirring;

[0147] 2) add C15-19 alkane to 80 with vigorous stirring to obtain a first mixture;

[0148] 3) mix carrageenan, glucomannan, xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl- cellulose in glycerin to obtain a second mixture;

[0149] 4) add the second mixture to the first mixture with stirring;

[0150] 5) maintain the mixture at 80 for 30 minutes; and

[0151] 6) lower the temperature to room temperature to obtain said composition. Softness rating

[0152] The softness of the compositions of inventive examples (El) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC) 1-9 can be characterized by the gel strength as tested with a texture analyzer under the following conditions: Test mode: compression Pre-test speed: 1 mm / s Test speed: 0.5 mm / s Post-test velocity: 10 mm / s Penetration distance: 5 mm

[0153] The results of the sweetness of the compositions according to inventive examples (El) 1-3 and comparative examples (EC) 1-9 have been listed below. Examples Frost resistance (g) El. 1 37 El. 2 37 El. 3 35 EC. 1 45 EC.2 43 EC.3 47 EC. 4 52 EC.5 51 EC.6 50 EC.7 47 EC.8 52 EC.9 46

[0155] The composition will be considered soft when its freeze resistance is less than 40 g. The lower the freeze resistance, the softer the composition.

[0156] It can be seen in Table 3 that the compositions according to the present invention have good softness.

Claims

Demands

1. A keratinous material care composition in the form of a hydrogel, comprising: i) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, or a combination thereof; ii) at least one surfactant selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters selected from: - polyglyceryl monocaprylates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, - polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, - polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, - polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, - polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, and - polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units; and - mixtures thereof;iii) at least one magnesium salt, wherein the weight ratio of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester to the magnesium salt ranges from 2:1 to 2:6;

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from carrageenan gum, glucomannan, xanthan gum, cellulose and its derivatives, and a combination thereof, more preferably selected from carrageenan gum, glucomannan, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, and a combination thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the surfactant selected from fatty acid polyglyceryl esters is selected from: polyglyceryl monocaprylates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl monolaurates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs, polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol motifs, and mixtures thereof, most preferably, the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester is polyglyceryl-6 caprylate.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the magnesium salt is selected from salts of an organic acid or an inorganic acid, preferably salts of an inorganic acid.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the magnesium salt is selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminium silicate, magnesium chloride, and a combination thereof, preferably, the magnesium salt is selected from magnesium sulfate, magnesium chloride, and a combination thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the weight ratio of the fatty acid polyglyceryl ester to the magnesium salt ranges from 2:1 to 2:

5.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the weight ratio of the magnesium salt to the hydrophilic gelling agent is not greater than 2:3, preferably from 1:10 to 3:

5.

9. Keratinous material treatment mask comprising: i) a water-insoluble mask fabric; and ii) the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 impregnated in the water-insoluble mask fabric.

10. Non-therapeutic process for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 or of the mask according to claim 9 on keratinous materials.