Cosmetic cleansing composition comprising surfactants

A sulfate-free cosmetic composition using amphoteric surfactants, linear α-olefin sulfonates, ethylene glycol esters, and crosslinked anionic acrylic polymers addresses skin irritation and manufacturing challenges, offering stable, opaque cleansing with skin benefits.

FR3146275B1Active Publication Date: 2025-10-10LOREAL SA
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2023001928
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2023-03-01
Publication Date
2025-10-10
Estimated Expiration
2043-03-01
Patent Text Reader

Abstract

Cosmetic cleansing composition comprising surfactants The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: an aqueous phase, at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, at least one linear α-olefin sulfonate, at least one ethylene glycol ester, and at least one crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic cleansing composition comprising surfactants

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for cleansing the skin and appendages, preferably a shower gel or a cleansing product for the face, body, hands and / or hair, comprising an aqueous phase and a combination of specific surfactants, without sulfate.

[0002] Skin cleansing is very important for skin care. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues such as excess sebum or leftover cosmetic products used daily accumulate in the skin folds and can clog the skin pores and lead to the appearance of pimples. One way to properly cleanse the skin is to use foaming cleaning products.

[0003] Foaming cleaning products currently available commercially are in the form of bars, gels or foaming liquids. They generally contain either soaps, which have the advantage of giving a creamy and voluminous foam but can cause tightness due to their excessive detergency, or foaming surfactants of the syndet type and stabilizers, which are combined together. Furthermore, the use of foaming cleaning products currently available commercially can cause a stinging effect and / or eye or skin irritation. More and more users, complaining of having sensitive skin, or of water that is becoming increasingly hard, want to opt for a shower gel that is as gentle as possible for the skin on a daily basis, and preferably formulated without sulfate.

[0004] Users are increasingly looking for new cleaning and / or care products for keratin materials, preferably the skin, which have an attractive visual appearance, in particular a pearly appearance, and which therefore have a certain opacity. This opacity is particularly attractive in the case of hygiene products, such as shower gels.

[0005] There is therefore a need to have compositions for cleaning and / or caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, which are opaque and which have good ocular and skin tolerance, while being foaming, stable, and which provide the skin with a protective and / or moisturizing film.

[0006] Furthermore, it is desirable for these compositions that their industrial manufacture does not present any difficulties in implementation, but on the contrary that they are easy to to formulate and manufacture industrially, preferably using a cold process, i.e. without heating, particularly at room temperature (25°C).

[0007] The aim of the present invention is to propose such compositions, which do not have the drawbacks of the prior art, which have good qualities of use (quality of foam, consistency, speed of rinsing, hydration of the skin after drying) as well as good ocular and cutaneous tolerance, and which have an opaque appearance, while being easy to manufacture industrially using a cold process.

[0008] The inventors have demonstrated that a composition comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, at least one linear α-olefin sulfonate, at least one ethylene glycol ester, and at least one crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer, makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition, in particular a shower gel, while being formulable without sulfate, meeting the aforementioned needs, while being stable. The compositions according to the invention have in particular good qualities of use and have an opaque and / or pearly appearance.

[0009] By composition having an “opaque and / or pearly” appearance, we mean a composition which, when determined by the naked eye, is neither transparent nor clear.

[0010] More specifically, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a. an aqueous phase, b. at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, c. at least one linear α-olefin sulfonate, d. at least one ethylene glycol ester, and e. at least one crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer.

[0011] It also relates to a process for cleaning keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face or hair or hands, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0012] By “keratin materials” we mean the skin (body, face, eye contour), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips and / or mucous membranes.

[0013] By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant any medium compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to discourage the consumer from using this composition.

[0014] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of sulfate, in particular free of sulfated anionic surfactants (i.e. free of anionic surfactants comprising at least one sulfate function but not comprising carboxylate or sulfonate functions).

[0015] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "free from" refers to a composition which does not contain (0%) said component, or which contains less than 0.1% by weight of said component, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0016] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0017] The aqueous phase contains water.

[0018] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water, Avène water.

[0019] The aqueous phase optionally contains at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water.

[0020] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include short-chain monoalcohols, for example C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol; and mixtures thereof.

[0021] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably at least one polyol.

[0022] Preferably, the aqueous phase represents from 20% to 97% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight, even better from 40% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 30% by weight of water, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably from 42% to 90% by weight.

[0024] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.1% to 15% by weight of organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 7% by weight. Betaine-type amphoteric surfactant

[0025] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines.

[0026] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of betaine type of the invention are preferably chosen from:

[0027] - alkyl betaines, in particular lauryl betaine such as for example the product GENAGEN KB® from CLARIANT, or coco-betaine such as Dehyton AB 30® from BASF or TEGO Betain AB 1214 from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH;

[0028] - N-alkylamido betaines and their derivatives, in particular cocamidopropyl betaine (for example LEBON 2000 HG® from SANYO or EMPIGEN BB® from ALBRIGHT ET WILSON or Dehyton PK 45), lauramidopropyl betaine (for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® from WITCO), or N-carboxyethoxyethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate N-disodium (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate; for example MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® from RHODIA CHIMIE);

[0029] - sultaines, such as cocoyl amidopropyl hydroxy-sulfobetaine (for example CROSULTAINE C-500 from CRODA);

[0030] - and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Preferably, the betaine-type amphoteric surfactant is chosen from alkyl betaines and N-alkylamido betaines, preferably from N-alkylamido betaines, more preferably from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises both cocamidopropyl betaine and coco-betaine, preferably the weight ratio of cocamidopropyl betaine to coco-betaine being greater than 1.

[0033] The content of active material in amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl betaines is preferably between 1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 5% by weight.

[0034] a -linear olefin sulfonates (or linear alpha-olefin sulfonates

[0035] The cosmetic composition according to the invention therefore comprises one or more linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, preferably comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0036] Said alpha-olefin sulfonates are known compounds and are notably described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Chemical Industries or in patent US8211850. These compounds are generally obtained by sulfonation of long-chain alpha-olefins.

[0037] The linear α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention generally comprise, in a known manner, a mixture of linear alkene sulfonates, in particular of formula (A), optionally in admixture with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates, in particular of formula (B).

[0038] Said linear alkene sulfonates can therefore be of formula (A):

[0039] R-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)n-SO3M

[0040] in which:

[0041] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, even better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0042] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n=l ;

[0043] - M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals; and in particular Na+ or K+.

[0044] Preferably, R represents a linear alkyl radical comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0045] Preferably, M is derived from an alkali metal, in particular Na+ or K+.

[0046] Preferably, the linear alkene sulfonates according to the invention are of formula:

[0047] [Chem.l] R -ŒpCH - O” M+

[0048] in which:

[0049] - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0050] - M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.

[0051] The linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates may be of formula (B):

[0052] (B) R'-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n'-SO3M'

[0053] in which:

[0054] - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, even better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0055] - n' is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n'=l ;

[0056] - M' being a cosmetically acceptable cation, notably chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.

[0057] Preferably, R' represents a linear alkyl radical comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 12 carbon atoms.

[0058] Preferably, M' is derived from an alkali metal, in particular Na+ or K+.

[0059] Preferably, the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates are of formula:

[0060] [Chem.2] O R—ÇH—CH—M'+ OH q

[0061] in which:

[0062] - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms;

[0063] - M' is a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the cation ammonium, cations from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.

[0064] Preferably, R and R' are identical.

[0065] Preferably, M and M' are identical.

[0066] Preferably, the linear α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular their alkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts.

[0067] Commercial products that may be mentioned include those offered under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40A or BIO-TERGE AS-40HA by the company STEPAN, or CALSOFT AOS-40 by the company PILOT CHEMICAL, or NANSA LSS38 / FL or FLE by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS.

[0068] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises said linear alpha-olefin sulfonates in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, better still from 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Ethylene glycol esters

[0069] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more ethylene glycol esters, preferably chosen from esters of ethylene glycol and C8-C22, preferably C10-C20, preferably C16-C18 fatty acids.

[0070] Preferably, the ethylene glycol ester is chosen from glycol (mono-)stearate, glycol distearate (also called diester of ethylene glycol and stearic acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0071] The total content of ethylene glycol ester in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.3% to 3%, preferably 0.5% to 1.5%, preferably 0.6% to approximately 1%, preferably 0.7% to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Mention may in particular be made of glycol stearate marketed by STEARINERIE DUBOIS, or that marketed under the name LEXEMUL EGMS by INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY. Mention may in particular be made of glycol distearate marketed under the references CUTINA GDS by BASF, ERCAREL EGDO MB by ERCA, ETHYLENEGLYCOL DISTEARATE VEGETABLE HAT by FACI, GALAXY (MB) 610 by GALAXY SURFACTANTS, GENAPOL PMS LO by CLARIANT, or TEGIN BL 315 MB by Evonik.

[0073] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises glycol distearate. Crosslinked anionic acrylic polymers

[0074] The cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises one or more crosslinked anionic acrylic polymers.

[0075] The crosslinked anionic acrylic polymers which can be used according to the invention are advantageously chosen from crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] A first family of suitable acrylic polymers is represented by crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers, in particular crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers. Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked by an allyl ether of alcohol of the sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the companies NOVEON, ASHLAND, or LUBRIZOL, or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VS A. These polymers have the INCI name Carbomer.

[0077] The acrylic polymers that can be used according to the invention can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers.

[0078] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked anionic copolymer chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, and more preferably crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate.

[0079] The crosslinked anionic copolymer may be in particular in the form of a dispersion in water. The number-average size of the copolymer particles in the dispersion is generally between 10 and 500 nm and preferably between 20 and 200 nm and more preferably from 50 to 150 nm.

[0080] These copolymers are notably described in application WO01 / 76552.

[0081] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion manufactured and sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by the company LUBRIZOL or a crosslinked copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate sold under the name ACULYN 33 by the company ROHM&HAAS.

[0082] Preferably, the total content of crosslinked anionic polymer(s) according to the invention is in the range of 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 1%, even more preferably 0.1 to 0.5%, preferably 0.1 to 0.4%, preferably 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%. Additional anionic surfactants

[0083] Optionally, the composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional anionic surfactants, different from the olefin-sulfonates described above.

[0084] Anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0085] In the present description, an entity is described as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.

[0086] Advantageously, the additional surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants not comprising a sulfate group.

[0087] Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfonate and / or carboxylate groups, preferably carboxylates.

[0088] The additional anionic surfactant(s) may be oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated. The total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and / or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then vary from 1 to 50 and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0089] The additional carboxylic anionic surfactants may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; these compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0090] It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosucc inates, and their salts.

[0091] Preferably, said carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0092] - acylglutamates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0093] - acylsarcosinates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium lauroyl or palmitoyl sarcosinate;

[0094] - acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0095] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20;

[0096] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0097] The additional anionic sulfonate surfactants, different from the above linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, which may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function.

[0098] They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0099] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

[0100] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20, especially laurylsulfosuccinates.

[0101] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0102] - (C6-C24) acyl isethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acyl isethionates,

[0103] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0104] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium or calcium salt. As examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Preferably, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0105] Preferably, the additional anionic surfactants, when present, are chosen from, alone or as a mixture,

[0106] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20;

[0107] - C6-C24 acylglutamates, especially C12-C20;

[0108] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, especially C12-C20;

[0109] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20,

[0110] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, especially C12-C20;

[0111] - (C6-C24) acyl isethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acyl isethionates,

[0112] in particular in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline-earth metals, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0113] The more particularly preferred additional anionic surfactants may be chosen from carboxylic surfactants, and very particularly from C6-C24, in particular C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, or amino alcohol salts; better still in the form of alkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts including amino alcohol salts, and / or magnesium salts.

[0114] When present, the additional anionic surfactants may be present in the composition according to the invention at a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10%. by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 8%, better still from 0.8 to 5% by weight, even better still from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0115] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises all of the anionic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, better still from 3 to 7% by weight and preferentially from 3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0116] Preferably, the weight ratio of the quantity of linear α-olefin sulfonate (i) to the quantity of anionic surfactant(s) other than the compounds (i) is greater than 1, preferably between 1.2 and 10, in particular between 1.5 and 8, or even between 2 and 7, even better ranging from 3 to 6.

[0117] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is said to be 'sulfate-free', that is to say that it does not comprise (0%) anionic surfactant comprising a sulfate group, such as for example alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates.

[0118] Furthermore, in the composition according to the invention, the total content of betaine amphoteric surfactant(s) is greater than the content of linear α-olefin sulfonates, which is itself greater than the content of ethylene glycol ester(s).

[0119] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of composition, a content respectively between:

[0120] - 1.2 and 10%, preferably between 1.5 and 5% of at least one, preferably at least two, amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from betaines,

[0121] - 2 and 10%, preferably between 3 and 5% of linear α-olefin sulfonate(s),

[0122] - 0.5 and 1.5%, preferably between 0.6 and 1% of ethylene glycol ester(s), and

[0123] - 0.1 and 1%, preferably between 0.1 and 0.5%, of anionic acrylic polymer(s) reticle.

[0124] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the total amount of active material of surfactants is between 5% and 20% by weight, preferably between 6% and 15% by weight, preferably between 6% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a salt, in particular an electrolyte.

[0126] The electrolyte may be chosen from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate. The electrolyte is preferably sodium chloride.

[0127] Preferably, the content of active electrolyte material is between 0.2% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.7% and 2% by weight.

[0128] The compositions in accordance with the present invention may further comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants, in particular chosen from preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, oils, ionic or non-ionic thickeners, humectants, anti-foaming agents, active ingredients, fillers, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field.

[0129] Among the oils, mention may be made of vegetable oils such as olive oil, safflower oil, cumin oil and in particular black cumin oil (nigella), sweet almond oil or even essential oils, such as mint essential oil or peppermint essential oil. These oils may be present in an amount of active ingredient of between 0.0001% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.001% and 0.5% by weight.

[0130] As ionic and non-ionic thickeners, we can cite for example:

[0131] - polysaccharide biopolymers such as pectin, carob gum, gum arabic, xanthan gum, guar gum and its derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guar, in particular that marketed under the name Jaguar HP105 by the company Rhodia, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, which may be a mixture of iota, lambda and kappa carrageenans, gellans, alginates, starches or modified celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, such as the product marketed under the name Natrosol 250HHR by the company Aqualon;

[0132] - modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers,

[0133] - polyacrylamides;

[0134] - polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS), possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the name “Hostacerin AMPS” (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyl tauramide);

[0135] - crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of the form of an E / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC;

[0136] - copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, marketed by Clariant under the name Aristoflex AVC;

[0137] - and their mixtures.

[0138] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible complementary compound(s) mentioned above and / or their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

[0139] The expressions “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0140] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients are given in % by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] EXAMPLES

[0142] Example 1: Preparation of compositions according to the invention

[0143] The composition Exl according to the invention was prepared by mixing the ingredients in water. In particular, the glycol distearate is first mixed with a Betaine surfactant and water, then all the ingredients are mixed in the water.

[0144] [Tables 1] INCI US Exl (% w / w) WATER Qsp 100 GLYCERIN 6.00 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 4.56 SODIUM C14-16 OLEFIN SULFONATE 3.80 FRAGRANCE 1.00 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.87 TRIETHYL CITRATE 0.80 GLYCOL DISTEARATE 0.75 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.60 ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 0.24 COCO-BETAINE 0.15 CITRIC ACID 0.05 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.03

[0145] Conclusion: the acrylic polymer made it possible to suspend the pearls formed by the glycol distearate and to stabilize them in the formula so that the opaque appearance obtained is homogeneous. The formula is stable for 2 months at 45°C. Example 2#: Comparison

[0146] Preparation and evaluation of composition according to the invention and of comparative compositions outside the invention in which one of the ingredients of the composition of the invention is missing, all things being equal to Table 1 otherwise:

[0147] [Tables2] INCI Name Active ingredient content Cocamidopropyl Betaine 4.56% Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate 3.8% Coco-Betaine 0.15% 0% Glycol Distearate 0% 0.75% Acrylates Copolymer 0.24% 0% 0.24% Effect observed on formulas in the absence of one of the ingredients of the composition of the invention: Cp2: Not opaque Cp3: Unstable formula Ex4: Compliant but manufacturing process longer than for Exl containing two betaine surfactants Example 3#: Measuring opacity

[0148] Measuring device: 2100P TURBIDIMETER

[0149] Results:

[0150] [Tables3] Cp2 (corresponds to Exl without Acry lates Copolymer) Exl Opacity value measured in N TU 22 207

[0151] The formula according to the invention Exl has an opacity greater than that of Cp2 without Acrylates Copolymer. Example 4#: Sensory evaluation

[0152] Evaluation tests by a panel of 15 trained people made it possible to compare the following compositions:

[0153] • Cp2 absence 0% of Glycol Distearate in table 1

[0154] “Excl composition according to table 1

[0155] • Cp6 for which, absence 0% of Glycol Distearate, and SODIUM C14-16 OLEFIN SULFONATE has been replaced by SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE in Table 1

[0156] • Cp7 for which, SODIUM C14-16 OLEFIN SULFONATE has been replaced by SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE in Table 1

[0157] Results: The following parameters were evaluated and rated from 1 to 5: from 1 (little) to 5 (very) in table 4 (average of the marks):

[0158] [Tables4] Parameters Cp2 Exl Cp6 Cp7 Spreadability 1 2 1 1 Appearance when foamed with water Aerated bubbles Aerated bubbles Aerated bubbles Aerated bubbles Foam quality 3 4 3 3 Foam quantity 3 4 4 3 Creaminess 2 3 3 2 Skin finish 3 4 3 3 Formula rinsability 4 4 4 4 Film-forming 3 4 3 4 Overall rating 19 25 21 20

[0159] Conclusion: a greater quantity and better quality of foam, a better skin finish, more and more aerated bubbles, as well as better smoothness of the Exl composition according to the invention could be observed in comparison with the other comparative formulas tested outside the invention. Example 5#: Consumer Test

[0160] [Tables5] Product reference: Exl Shower Gel Study objectives: Confirm the perceived effectiveness and cosmetic qualities / 2-4H evaluation of certain cosmetic aspects to be added Method: Application of the product under normal conditions of use and self-assessment by users. Mode and duration of use of the product: • Duration of the test: 3 weeks. • Frequency of application: at least once a day on the body and face. At least 3 times a week on the hair (for men only) . Application sites: for women: On the body and face / for men: On the body, face and hair . Instructions for use: "You will use this shower at least once a day, according to your habits and on the areas indicated below, instead of your usual shower gel, for 3 weeks. . Among the first week of testing, volunteers chose 1 day to do a 24-hour wear test: a single application of the shower gel in a period of 24 consecutive hours, without applying body moisturizer. Inclusion criteria: - 100 Volunteers (50% men / women) from 18 to 65 years old, - All ethnicities and phototypes are accepted. - 100% with dry skin on the body - 100% of women and 60% of men have sensitive skin on the body. - All regular shower gel users: 50% clear shower gel users and 50% opaque shower gel users.- live in France - All volunteers agree to test the product provided every day for 3 weeks. - All agree not to use body moisturizer during the 24 hours of wear test (one day during the 1st week). - All volunteers are not averse to floral and powdery fragrances for shower gel. - Available for the study Panel characteristics: • 109 volunteers (52 women and 57 men), aged 18 to 64, - Average age: 43.7 + / - 12.8 years - France.

[0161] Results:

[0162] Effects on the skin:

[0163] [Tableauxô] Questions in %: With this product... Immediately after the 1st application (109 panelists) After 3 weeks (109 panelists) The product gives a feeling of well-being upon application 95.4% 90.8% With this product, the skin is comfortable 96.3% 96.3% With this product, the skin feels moisturized 89.0% 91.8% With this product, the skin is soft 90.8% 98.2% With this product, the skin feels nourished / nourished 79.8% 89.9% The product respects the natural balance of the skin - 89.9% With this product, the skin is supple 87.2% 93.6% With this product, the skin is clear and clean 99.1% 97.3% The product gently cleanses the skin 98.2% 96.3% With this product, the skin is lastingly soothed 82.6% 87.2% With this product, the skin looks healthier, purified 76.1% 81.7% With this product, the skin is not dry 95.4% 94.5% The product leaves the skin comfortable for a long time - 94.5% With this product, the skin feels like satin - 68.7% With this product, the skin feels toned, revitalized 70.6% 72.4% With this product, my skin is beautiful - 85.3% The product leaves a baby skin effect - 77.0% With this product, the skin is soft - 90.8% With this product, the skin is soothed (reduces irritations linked to dry skin) - 94.5% “Agree” and “Somewhat agree” responses.

[0164] Overall perception of the product:

[0165] [Tables?] Questions in %: After 3 weeks (109 panelists) Overall, how much do you like this product? T2B (extremely + very much) 74.3% T3B (extremely + very much + quite well) 95.4% And how satisfied are you with this product? T2B (very satisfied + somewhat satisfied) 95.4% TB (very satisfied) 64.2% Compared to your usual product, would you say that the tested product is... T2B (much better + slightly better) 72.5% TB (much better) 36.7% After using this product for 3 weeks, would you say...? T2B (I like it more today than when I first tried it + I like it as much today as when I first tried it) 94.5% TB (I like it more today than when I first tried it) 45.0%

[0166] The consumer test carried out on the Exl formula is conclusive. The product is very popular with consumers.

[0167] Ultimately, the composition according to the invention, comprising at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaines, at least one linear α-olefin sulfonate, at least one ethylene glycol ester, and at least one crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer, makes it possible to obtain a shower gel, sulfate-free, stable, with an opaque and / or pearly appearance, and having good qualities of use, in particular in terms of texture, sensoriality, foam quality, and perceived sensations (comfort, softness and hydration of the skin) after the shower.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a. an aqueous phase, b. at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from betaine s, c. at least one linear α-olefin sulfonate, d. at least one ethylene glycol ester, and e. at least one crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer, in which the total content of betaine amphoteric surfactant(s) is greater than the content of linear α-olefin sulfonates.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises water and at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water, preferably at least one polyol.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from alkyl betaines and N-alkylamido betaines, preferably from N-alkylamido betaines, more preferably from cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine and their mixtures, preferably the composition comprises cocamidopropyl betaine and coco-betaine, preferably the weight ratio of cocamidopropyl betaine to coco-betaine being greater than 1.

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant(s) is (are) present in a total active material content of between 1% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1.2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1.5% and 5% by weight.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the linear α-olefin sulfonate(s) are chosen from linear alkene sulfonates of formula (A): R-CH2-CH=CH-(CH2)n-SO3M, in which R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, even better from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferentially from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n=1; M being a cation cosmetically acceptable, in particular chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+; optionally in a mixture with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates of formula (B): R'-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n'-SO3M' in which: R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; n' is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, and even better n'=1; M' being a cosmetically acceptable cation, notably chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines;preferably those derived from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.;

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the linear α-olefin sulfonates are chosen from linear α-olefin sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 16 carbon atoms; in particular their alkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts.

7. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the α-olefin sulfonate(s) comprise linear alkene sulfonates of formula: [Chem.l] OR~CH — CH—CH—€H—M+ Ô in which R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; M being a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from amines organic such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+; optionally in a mixture with linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates of formula: [Chem.2] GH - OH 0 in which R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, even better from 10 to 12 carbon atoms; M' is a cosmetically acceptable cation, in particular chosen from the ammonium cation, cations derived from alkali or alkaline earth metals, cations derived from organic amines such as alkanolamines; preferably those derived from alkali metals, and in particular Na+ or K+.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising said linear alpha-olefin sulfonates in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, better still from 3 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the ethylene glycol ester(s) are chosen from esters of ethylene glycol and C8-C22, preferably C10-C20, preferably C16-C18 fatty acids, preferably the ethylene glycol ester is chosen from glycol stearate, glycol distearate, and mixtures thereof; preferably is glycol distearate.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of ethylene glycol ester(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.3% to 3%, preferably 0.5% to 1.5%, preferably 0.6% to approximately 1%, preferably 0.7% to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of betaine amphoteric surfactant(s) is greater than the content of linear α-olefin sulfonates, which is itself greater than the content of ethylene glycol ester(s).

12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the crosslinked anionic acrylic polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof; preferably chosen from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid, and crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate, crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl acrylate; and more preferably crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of crosslinked anionic acrylic polymers is in the range of 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 1%, even more preferably 0.1 to 0.5%, preferably 0.1 to 0.4%, preferably 0.1 to 0.3% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition representing 100%.

14. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a content respectively of between: a. 1.2 and 10%, preferably between 1.5 and 5% of at least one, preferably at least two, amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from betaines, b. 2 and 10%, preferably between 3 and 5% of linear α-olefin sulfonate(s), c. 0.5 and 1.5%, preferably between 0.6 and 1% of ethylene glycol ester(s), and d. 0.1 and 1%, preferably between 0.1 and 0.5%, of crosslinked anionic α-acrylic polymer(s).

15. A method of cleaning keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 14.