Direct emulsion comprising a UV filter, a lipophilic acrylic polymer, a fatty acid and polyol ester and an anionic carboxylic surfactant, with a pH greater than or equal to 6

Abstract

Direct emulsion comprising a UV filter, a lipophilic acrylic polymer, a fatty acid and polyol ester and an anionic carboxylic surfactant, of pH greater than or equal to 6. The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: - at least one UV filter; - at least one polymer comprising monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B): in which: R1, independently of each other, is selected from alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the R1 groups are radicals selected from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relating to the sum of all the R1 groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units bearing the R1 group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1;and the sum of the total units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer, the polymer having a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g / mol; - at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester and C2-C24 polyol ester; and - at least one anionic carboxylic surfactant or carboxylate selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; the pH of the composition being greater than or equal to 6.

Description

Title of the invention: Direct emulsion comprising a UV filter, a lipophilic acrylic polymer, a fatty acid and polyol ester and an anionic carboxylic surfactant, with a pH greater than or equal to 6

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one UV filter, at least one suitably selected lipophilic acrylic polymer, at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester and C2-C24 polyol ester, and at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts, the pH of the composition being greater than or equal to 6, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratinous materials, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face.

[0002] It is known that light radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm causes the human epidermis to tan. Rays with wavelengths more specifically between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns that can interfere with the development of a natural tan.

[0003] For these reasons, as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of controlling this natural tanning in order to control skin color: it is therefore necessary to filter UV-B radiation. It is also known that UV-A rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause skin tanning, are likely to induce skin damage, particularly in the case of sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. In particular, UV-A rays cause a loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature skin aging.

[0004] Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, such as preserving the skin's natural elasticity, for example, more and more people wish to control the effect of UV-A rays on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter UV-A radiation.

[0005] In order to ensure protection of the skin and keratinous materials against UV radiation, photo-protective compositions are generally used, comprising organic filters, active in UV-A and active in UV-B.

[0006] Numerous cosmetic compositions intended for the photoprotection of the skin Several formulations have been proposed to date. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid base (preferably an oil-in-water emulsion), one or more organic molecules capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and soluble in the oil and / or aqueous phase. The use of metal oxide mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide in such sunscreen compositions is increasingly common because these particles, invisible to the naked eye due to their small size, increase the sun protection factor (SPF) of the compositions containing them.

[0007] One of the major drawbacks of these photo-protective emulsions containing organic and / or mineral filters lies in the difficulty of reconciling good product stability, ease of product application, effective protection, preferably at least 40 SPF and 10 PPD, and a fresh and non-sticky feel.

[0008] The applicant discovered that this objective could be achieved with the combination of a suitably selected emulsifying system and lipophilic acrylic polymer, with an improved result when the pH of the composition is optimized.

[0009] Thus, the present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined below; - at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester and C2-C24 polyol ester; and - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C24, and their salts; the pH of the composition being greater than or equal to 6.

[0010] Contrary to expectations, the inventors found that the implementation, in a photo-protective composition, of the association of an emulsifying system comprising a fatty acid and polyol ester and an amino acid modified by at least one fatty chain or one of its salts with a suitably selected lipophilic acrylic polymer makes it possible to obtain a composition that is easy to spread, has a high photoprotective power and is nevertheless stabilized over time, also exhibiting good cosmetic properties such as a cooling power and a non-greasy and non-sticky texture, these technical effects being further improved in a specific pH range.

[0011] When the pH of the composition is greater than or equal to 6, the viscosity of the composition is significantly reduced, the composition exhibits greater physicochemical stability, and the resulting sun protection is superior, with, in particular, high and robust SPF and PPD values, i.e., repro- deductible from one manufacturing process to another.

[0012] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin of the body and / or face.

[0013] The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, comprising at least the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0014] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting skin darkening and / or improving the color and / or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0015] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0016] The composition according to the invention exhibits good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically after storage for 24 hours, one week, one month, or two months at room temperature (25°C), 4°C, 45°C, or 55°C. A stable composition generally retains its pleasantness and sensory signature upon application over time. More specifically, the stability of a composition can be assessed qualitatively, for example, by the absence of phase separation or crystal formation, or quantitatively by monitoring the evolution of parameters such as viscosity or pH.

[0017] Within the framework of the invention, the filtering efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of the SPF and the PPD.

[0018] For the purposes of this invention, "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) means the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain a sunburn with a photoprotective composition and that without the product. More specifically, the term "SPF" is defined in the article "A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0019] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be evaluated in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material onto which the solar composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. A specific protocol, presented as an example, is currently being developed. ISO approval under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0020] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO 24444:2019 protocol "Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)".

[0021] For the purposes of this invention, UVAPF refers to the index characterizing protection against UVA radiation. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, ISO 24442:2022 protocol, and measures skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure. UVA protection can also be assessed in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material onto which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymer methyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. ISO 24443:2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.

[0022] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows.

[0023] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Hereinafter, "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0024] In the context of the present invention, "keratinic material" means in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinic fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0025] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0026] Furthermore, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to".

[0027] By "prevent" or "prevention", according to the invention, means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratinous material.

[0028] By "organic UVA filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule also being able to absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0029] By "organic UVB filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 320 nm.

[0030] The term "emulsion" means any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two immiscible phases; one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system, generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0031] A distinction is made between oil-in-water emulsions, known as "direct" emulsions, consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous dispersed oily phase, and water-in-oil emulsions, known as inverse emulsions, consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous dispersed aqueous phase. Multiple emulsions also exist, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

[0032] The compositions according to the invention are direct emulsions. UV filters

[0033] The compositions according to the invention contain one or more UV filters selected from hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, the filtering system will consist of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filter.

[0034] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0035] By "lipophilic filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.

[0036] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, for example, Miglyol 812® marketed by DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, measured at 70 °C, is defined as the amount of product dissolved in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solids after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0037] Organic UV filters are in particular selected from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those mentioned in US patent 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in US applications 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10 162 844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665;α-Alkylstyrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE 19 855 649; 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds such as those described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19 746 654, DE 19 755 649, EP-A-1008586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name and / or their chemical name.

[0039] Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold notably under the trade name PARSOL ® MCX by DSM Nutritial Products, Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise,

[0040] Dibenzolmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold notably under the trade name PARSOL ® 1789 by DSM Nutritial Products,

[0041] Salicylic compounds: Homosalate sold under the name "Parsol® HMS" by DSM Nutritional Products, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name "NEO HELIOPAN ® OS" by Symrise,

[0042] Compounds [3.[3-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene, sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL ® N 539 T" by BASF,

[0043] Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "UVINUL ® M 40" by BASF, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate, INCI name Di-thylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, sold under the trade name " UVINUL® A Plus » or in a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name «UVINUL® A Plus B» by BASF, 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methano (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO 2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

[0044] Benzylidene camphor compounds: 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name "EUSOLEX ® 6300" by MERCK, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid manufactured under the name "MEXORYL ® SX" by NOVEAL,

[0045] Phenyl benzimidazole compounds: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold notably under the trade name "EUSOLEX ® 232" by MERCK.

[0046] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN ® AP" by Symrise,

[0047] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name "MEXORYL ® XL" by NOVEAL,

[0048] Methylene bis-(hvdroxvphenvl benzotriazole) compounds: Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, notably in solid form as the product sold under the trade name "MIXXIM BB / 100 ®" by FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL, or as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkyl polyglycoside surfactant of the structure CnH2n+iO(C6HiO5)xH, where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6HiO5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, notably sold under the trade name "TINOSORB ® M" by BASF, or as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a size average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 pm, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm,in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C20)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009 / 063392, in particular the product marketed under the name "TINOSORB ® WPGL" by BASF, ,

[0049] Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name "TINOSORB ® S" by BASF, and in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by BASF, - Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold notably under the trade name "UVINUL ® T 150" by BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name "UVASORB ® HEB" by 3V SIGMA, - Symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups described in US patent 6,225,467, application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by BASF and which is covered in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992, WO 2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained for example by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form,

[0050] Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name "NEO HELIOPAN ® MA" by Symrise.

[0051] Benzalmalonate compounds: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "PARSOL ® SLX" by DSM Nutritional Products,

[0052] Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imi no-l,3,5-triazine sold under the name "Uvasorb ® K2A" by 3V Sigma, 2-[4-(l,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-l,3-benzoxazole, cas number 904-39-2.

[0053] The preferred organic filters are chosen from: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, B enzophenone- 3, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine, 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polysilicone-15, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, et leurs mélanges.

[0054] Les filtres organiques particulièrement préférés sont choisis parmi : Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl)piperazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, 2,4,6-tris-(bi-phenyl)-triazine, and mixtures thereof.

[0055] The inorganic UV filters used according to the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, Even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more specifically between 0.015 and 0.05 pm. These are described in particular in Annex VI, updated on 22 / 09 / 2021, of the European cosmetic products regulation number 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to this list.

[0056] They can in particular be chosen from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

[0057] Such metallic oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

[0058] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0059] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts, fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0060] The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - hydrated silica such as the product "MT-100WP" from TAYCA, - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from IKEDA, - silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from TAYCA, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from CRODA, - alumina such as the "TTO-55 (A)®" products from the ISHIHARA company, - of alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from the company CRODA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK, - of silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from the company TAYCA, - of alumina and aluminum laurate, - iron oxide and iron stearate, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate, - of silica and alumina treated with silicone, such as the products "MTY-500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company TAYCA, - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate treated with silicone, - of silica treated with silicone, - of alumina and treated with silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the ISHIHARA company, - of triethanolamine, - stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55 (C)®" from the ISHIHARA company, - sodium hexametaphosphate, - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane, - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, - TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina, sold under the trade name "Solaveil™ CT-200" by CRODA, - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone, sold under the trade name "Solaveil™ CT-12W" by CRODA, - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, - TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0061] Other examples include TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also include one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester like sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol ester such as TRLPPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters.One can cite in particular the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, as the product sold under the trade name "OPTISOL™ OTP-1" by the company CRODA.

[0062] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MT-500B" or "MT-600B®", by the company Evonik under the name "DEGUSSA P 25".

[0063] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: - those marketed under the name "Z-COTE®" by the company BASF; - those marketed under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0064] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane; - CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid); - those marketed under the name and "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent); - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated by silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethyl-siloxane).

[0065] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

[0066] We can also mention mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

[0067] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0068] UV filters can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and better from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic acrylic polymer

[0069] The lipophilic acrylic polymer present in the composition according to the invention comprises monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B): [chem 1] in which: RI, independently of each other, is chosen from among the alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals chosen from among the radicals stearyl and behenyl, the weight percentage referring to the sum of all RI groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1, and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.

[0070] Preferably, RI consists of alkyl radicals, preferably alkyl radicals in C16-C22, and more preferably stearyl radicals (in C[8] or behenyl radicals (in C22).

[0071] Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight.

[0072] According to a preferred embodiment, all RI groups are behenyl radicals.

[0073] According to another preferred embodiment, all RI groups are stearyl radicals.

[0074] Preferably, the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group goes from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably goes from 1:10 to 1:4.

[0075] Advantageously, the polymeric units present in the polymer consist of the units (A) and (B) described previously.

[0076] The polymer has a number-average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured using gel permeation chromatography, for example according to the method described in the example below.

[0077] Preferably, the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40 °C to 70 °C, and preferably from 45 °C to 67 °C. The melting temperature is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to the method described in the example below.

[0078] According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer preferably has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60 °C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55 °C.

[0079] According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 60 °C to 70 °C, and preferably ranging from 63 °C to 67 °C.

[0080] The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerization of monomer with the following formula: CH2=CH-COO-R1, RI having the meaning described above, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0081] Polymerization can be carried out according to known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.

[0082] Polymerization is described for example in US document 2007 / 0264204.

[0083] The lipophilic acrylic polymer can be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better ranging from 0.2 to 2% by weight. Fatty acid and polyol esters

[0084] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester and C2-C24 polyol, preferably at least one C6-Ci8 fatty acid ester and glycerol.

[0085] The C12-C24 fatty acid for the fatty acid and polyol ester, preferably the fatty acid and glycerol ester, can be a saturated or unsaturated acid, for example stearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid.

[0086] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

[0087] The polyol for the fatty acid and polyol ester may be an alkyl-type compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH functions, and in particular at least three -OH functions.

[0088] Polyols advantageously suitable for the fatty acid and polyol ester are those having, preferably, 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0089] Advantageously, the polyol can be chosen for example from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, poly-glycerin-3, glycerin and mixtures thereof.

[0090] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is selected from 1,3-propanediol, polyglycerin-3, glycerin, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, it is glycerin.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester and glycerol.

[0092] Examples of C12-C24 fatty acid esters and glycerol include glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Examples of marketed products include glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, the glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 3120 by the company Hiils.

[0094] Monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: GLYCERYL STEARATE) can also be used, for example those marketed under the name DIMODAN HP by the company DANISCO, or those marketed under the name TEGIN 90 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.

[0095] Preferably, the ester of fatty acid in Ci2-C24 and glycerol is glyceryl stearate.

[0096] Advantageously, the C2-C24 fatty acid ester(s) and C2-C24 polyol ester(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Anionic carboxylic surfactants or carboxylates selected from fatty-chain amino acids and their salts

[0097] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C24, and their salts.

[0098] The term “hydrocarbon chain” means an organic group consisting predominantly of hydrogen and carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms may be replaced by an oxygen or nitrogen atom. Examples of C8-C3O hydrocarbon chains include C8-C3O acyl radicals.

[0099] Examples of amino acids include alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, and sarcosine.

[0100] Plus spécifiquement, on peut citer, à titre de tensioactifs anioniques carboxylates choisis parmi les sels d’acides aminés modifiés par au moins une chaîne grasse, les composés suivants : dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl [3-alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, myristoyl [3-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate,sodium cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate and sodium myristoyl methyl [3-alaninate palmitoyl , glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, et leurs mélanges.

[0101] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant(s) are chosen from compounds of the following structure: [chem 2] OI TO COMOM S XY in which: Z represents a hydrocarbon group comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a group chosen from a hydrogen atom, a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -ch2c6h5, -ch2c2h4oh, -ch2oh, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

[0102] According to a preferred embodiment, in formula 2: Z represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group at C8-C22; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; n is equal to 0; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group, or a -(CH2)2C(O)O M+ group; and M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

[0103] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates).

[0104] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids whose acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid and the salts of these acids, in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, alkaline earth metal salts such as Mg or ammonium salts of said acids.

[0105] Preferably, as amino acid salts modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain, glutamate salts may be cited, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.

[0106] Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) or one of its salts are selected from lauroyl glutamic acid(s), cocoyl glutamic acid(s), sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

[0107] More preferably, acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0108] Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

[0109] We can also mention triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate marketed under the name AMISOFT CT 12 by the company AJINOMOTO and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0110] As salts of acyl glutamic acid, we can also mention sodium hydrogenated tallowoyl glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYL-GLUTAMATE HS 11 by the company AJINOMOTO and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate such as that marketed under the reference ACYLGLUTAMATE HS-21 by the company AJINOMOTO.

[0111] We can also mention commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one derivative of glutamic acid or a salt of said derivative such as, for example, the mixture of acyl glutamates salts such as Amisoft LS-22 marketed by AJINOMOTO.

[0112] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mono-sodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate) is used, such as that marketed by the company AJINOMOTO under the reference AMISOFT HS 11 PF.

[0113] The amino acid(s) modified by at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain and their salts may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, better from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohols

[0114] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24.

[0115] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the saturated fatty alcohols in Ci2-C24 are linear. Preferably, the fatty alcohols comprise from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0116] The fatty alcohol(s) usable within the framework of the present invention may in particular be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. They are preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

[0117] As cetyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the names ECOROL® 16 / 98 F and ECOROL® 16 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, TEGOALKANOL® 16 by Evonik Goldschmidt, LANETTE® 16 by Cognis, VEGAROL® 1698 by WF, ALKONAT® 1698 P by Oxiteno, CETYL ALCOHOL 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, GINOL® 16 (98%) by Godrej Industries, NACOL® 16-98 by Sasol, KALCOL® 6098 by Kao and ACILOL® 16 by Aegis Chemical.

[0118] As a stearyl alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can by for example use those sold under the names TEGOALKANOL® 18 by Evonik Goldschmidt, ECOROL® 18 / 98 F and ECOROL® 18 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® 18 by Cognis, KALCOL® 8098 by Kao, ACILOL® 18 by Aegis Chemical, NACOL® 18-98 by Sasol and NAA® 45 by Nihon Yushi.

[0119] As cetylstearyl alcohols particularly suitable for the invention, examples may be used, for instance, those sold under the names ECOROL® 68 / 50 F and ECOROL® 68 / 50 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, LANETTE® O OR and LANETTE® O OR FLAKES by Cognis, ALKONAT® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, NAFOL® 16-18 EN by Sasol, ALCOHOL CETOES-TEARILICO 50 / 50 by Industria Quimica Del Centre, CONOL® 30 CK by New Japan Chemical, CETYL STEARYL ALCOHOL 50:50 by Evonik Goldschmidt, KALCOL® 6850 by Kao, VEGAROL® 1618 (50:50) by WF and GINOL® 1618 50:50 OR by the company Godrej Industries.

[0120] As a behenic alcohol particularly suitable for the invention, one can for example use those sold under the name LANETTE 22 by the company BASF.

[0121] The composition according to the invention has an alpha-gel structure, that is to say, it has a lamellar phase, due to the presence of a surfactant and a C12-C24* saturated fatty alcohol

[0122] Advantageously, the C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol(s) are present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0123] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one wax.

[0124] For the purposes of this invention, wax is defined as a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 °C), deformable or not, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, and having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, up to and including 120 °C. In particular, waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 60 °C, and in particular greater than or equal to 70 °C.

[0125] By lipophilic compound is meant a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0126] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments or the calorimeter marketed under the name "DSC Q100" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.

[0127] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0128] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is first heated from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally heated a second time from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second heating, the change in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the change in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0129] Waxes may be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated and be of vegetable, animal, mineral and / or synthetic origin.

[0130] The wax(s) may be present in each composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3%, and better from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax of vegetable origin.

[0132] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0133] Jojoba ester wax may be in an unsaturated form of jojoba esters, which may be fully hydrogenated jojoba ester of the following formula: [chem 3] R^CGO-CHs-R1 in which: R1 is a CH3-(CH2)y group, y is equal to 16, 18, 20 or 22.

[0134] Jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba wax ester (jojoba oil) of the following formula: [chem 4] oh CHr • CH CH * (¾ * (¢1¾ « C» o * 0¾ * 0¾ - Œ - CH' 0¾ in which x and y are equal to 6, 8, 10 or 12.

[0135] Jojoba wax esters are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (position n-9), counting from the terminal methyl group (-CH3) of the chain of fatty acid or respective alcohol.

[0136] Such wax esters are composed of fatty alcohols and fatty acids with a number of carbon atoms, primarily 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material comprises esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42, and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of 36- and 46-carbon esters also present. The typical composition of the wax esters is shown below. [Table 1] Ester waxes (X, Y) Typical chain length % (area per GPC) (6, 6) 36 1 (6, 8) (8, 6) 38 8 (6, 10) (8, 8) (10, 6) 40 39 (10, 8) (8, 10) 42 38 (10, 10) 44 13 (12, 10) (10, 12) 46 1

[0137] Jojoba wax ester can be derived from the seed of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).

[0138] Examples of jojoba ester wax include the product marketed under the name Floraesters® 70 by International Flora Technologies Ltd, and the product sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by Vantage.

[0139] Advantageously, jojoba ester wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon wax in addition to the jojoba ester mentioned above.

[0141] Examples may be cited as hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax, rice wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; in particular, polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters, may be used.

[0142] Examples include beeswax, for example the product sold under the name White Beeswax BR G889 by Koster Keunen, camauba wax, for example marketed under the name Cerauba Tl Bio by the company Baerlocher, helianthus annuus (sunflower) wax marketed under the name Sunflower Wax by the company Koster Keunen, or a mixture of these.

[0143] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

[0144] If present, the additional hydrocarbon wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters, and sunflower seed wax with the INCI name CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3, marketed under the name EMULIUM® DOLCEA MB by the company GATTEFOSSE.

[0146] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one ester of fatty acid in C12-C24 and glycerol; - at least one surfactant selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C24 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; and - at least one wax.

[0147] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one C[2-C24] fatty acid ester and glycerol; - at least one surfactant selected from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C24 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; and - at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0148] Preferably, the composition comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one ester of fatty acid in C12-C24 and glycerol; - at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being in the C10-C30 position, preferably in the C2-C22 position; and - at least one jojoba ester wax.

[0149] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one ester of fatty acid in C12-C24 and glycerol; - at least one surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C24 hydrocarbon chain and their salts; - at least one jojoba ester wax; and - at least one seed wax of helianthus annuus (sunflower).

[0150] Preferably, the composition comprises: - at least one UV filter; - at least one lipophilic acrylic polymer as defined above; - at least one fatty alcohol saturated with Ci2-C24; - at least one ester of fatty acid in C12-C24 and glycerol; - at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being in C10-C30, preferably in C[2-C22; - at least one jojoba ester wax; and - at least one seed wax of helianthus annuus (sunflower).

[0151] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a fluid skincare composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) at least one UV filter; (ii) from 0.05% to 10% by weight of a lipophilic acrylic polymer comprising monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B): [chem 1] in which: RI, independently of each other, is chosen from among the alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals selected from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage referring to the sum of all RI groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1, and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer; (iii) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one jojoba ester wax of formula 3: [chem 3] R^COO-CHs-fV where R1 is CH3- (CH2)y-, y is 16, 18, 20 or 22; (iv) from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one saturated fatty alcohol in Ci2-C24 selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol; (v) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof; and (vi) from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant chosen from among acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) and their salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being in C10-C30, preferably in C12-C22, even more preferably it is the stearoyl radical. Fatty phase

[0152] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

[0153] The oily phase may consist of any oily substances commonly used in cosmetics or dermatology; it includes, in particular, the wax(s) defined above and may include at least one oil. The oily phase also includes the lipophilic filter(s) and the fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

[0154] The term "oil" refers to any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0155] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at a temperature ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm of Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

[0156] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0157] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means any oil consisting mainly of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may notably contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0158] The term “siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0159] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention include: (i) vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and rosehip oils; or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; (ii) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R + R' is > 10, such as, for example, oil Purcellin (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates as sold under the trade names "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-Ethylphenyl benzoate as sold under the trade name "X-TEND 226®" by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, dii-sopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate as sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol;citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE and linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; (v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.

[0160] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils usable according to the invention, glyceride triesters, and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters, and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol, are preferred. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0161] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils usable according to the invention include hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as petroleum-derived C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, C8-C16 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0162] Also citeable are the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO 2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves derived from coconut or palm oil. Examples include the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl 3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis application WO 2008 / 155059. Also citeable are n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, respectively, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0163] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the Shell company, can also be used. In one embodiment, the volatile solvent is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Non-volatile silicone oils may be selected in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes having alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicas.

[0165] Examples of volatile silicone oils include, for instance, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10⁶ m² / s), and having, in particular, 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention include, in particular, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] We can also mention volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.

[0167] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

[0168] The oily phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in oil, other fatty substances.

[0169] Another fatty substance that may be present in the oily phase may be, for example: - a fatty acid chosen from among fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms different from fatty chain amino acids as defined above, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; - a gum chosen from among the silicone gums (dimethiconol), - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymer silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, - and their mixtures.

[0170] Preferably, the overall fatty phase, including all lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including lipophilic filters, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0171] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0172] The aqueous phase contains water, and possibly other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

[0173] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may include, for example, water selected from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy waters, or a floral water.

[0174] Water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include, in addition to short-chain alcohols as defined above, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0175] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an amount of glycerin less than 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents from 5 to 95% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] The pH of the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 6.

[0178] According to a particular embodiment, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 6.0 and 11.0. Preferably, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 6.0 and 9.0. Even more preferably, the The pH of the composition according to the invention is between 6.0 and 7.8.

[0179] The pH measurement of the composition according to the invention can be carried out using a Mettler Toledo MPC227, SevenEasy pH or SevenGo SG2 pH meter, at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure. Active cosmetic ingredients

[0180] The composition of the present invention may include at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0181] Examples of cosmetic actives include moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and derivatives of vitamin A; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; tightening agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

[0182] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent. Preferably, this is polyglycerin-3.

[0183] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of cosmetic active ingredient according to the end use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0184] The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, in addition to surfactant (for example, polysorbate 80), co-emulsifier, additional thickeners (such as an acryloyldimethyltaurate homopolymer or a sodium acrylamide / acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, an acrylates / alkyl acrylate crosspolymer copolymer in Cl0-30, hydroxypropylguar), pH regulators (for example, triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (for example, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.

[0185] A person skilled in the art can select the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to impair the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0186] Examples Examples of preparation of lipophilic acrylic polymers according to the invention

[0187] Determination of molecular weight by gel permeation chromatography (GPC):

[0188] The sample is prepared by dissolving the polymer at 10 mg / ml in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54 °C for 10 minutes and then in an oscillating shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. Upon visual inspection, the sample appears to be completely dissolved in the solvent.

[0189] The prepared sample was analyzed using two 300 x 7.5 mm polypore columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase, and refractive index detection. The sample was filtered through a 0.45 µm nylon filter before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for calibration were the Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies.

[0190] Polystyrene standards ranging from 2,520,000 to 162 Daltons were used for calibration.

[0191] The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RL detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the different molecular weights were performed using the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

[0192] Determination of melting point by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC)

[0193] This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182, and the DSC calibration is performed according to ASTM E 9672.

[0194] Example of polymer preparation 1:

[0195] Behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 1):

[0196] In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two additional necks, 175 g of behenyl acrylate, 25 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added for 60 minutes at 80 °C to 40 g of isopropanol with stirring after removing oxygen from the system by purging with nitrogen for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, and 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added, and the reaction was The process continued for 60 minutes at 110 °C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C, a jet of demineralized water was added, and the mixture was stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation.

[0197] Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g / mol, Mw = 21000 , Mw / Mn = 2.8;

[0198] Melting point: 65 °C.

[0199] Example of polymer 2 preparation:

[0200] Stearvle acrvlate / 2-hydroxyethyl ether acrvlate copolymer (Polymer 2):

[0201] In a 4-necked bottle equipped with a side-blade stirrer, a thermometer Internally, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two additional necks, 155 g behenyl acrylate, 45 g 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) were added to 50 g isopropanol for 90 minutes at 80 °C under stirring after removing oxygen from the system using nitrogen purging for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. The solvent was then removed by vacuum distillation, and 1 g dilauryl peroxide was added, and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 125 °C. This step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C, and a stream of demineralized water was added and stirred. The water was removed by distillation under empty.

[0202] Molecular weight: Mn = 7500 g / mol, Mw = 19000 , Mw / Mn = 2.6;

[0203] Melting point: 49 °C. Examples of compositions

[0204] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients in the compositions are given as a percentage by weight of raw materials or active ingredients relative to the total weight of the composition. Protocol for evaluating filter efficiency

[0205] In-vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the "in-vitro" method vitro » described by M. Pissavini et al in International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 40, 263-268 (2018), based on initial absorbance.

[0206] The in vitro UVA protection factor (UVAPF) of a sun protection product against UVA radiation is calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modelling according to the ISO 24443:2012 (Fr) protocol.

[0207] Each composition is applied to six rough PMMA plates as a homogeneous and regular deposit at a rate of 1 mg / cm². The spreading of each composition is carried out using an automated robot that makes regular and uniform movements on three HD6 plates (molded granular plates) and three SB6 plates (sandblasted granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the six plates are spread, they are placed in Thermo-Master chambers in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. Measurements are performed using the Labsphère UV-1000S spectrophotometer. Nine measurements are taken per plate. then we analyze the measurements using an Excel spreadsheet which provides us with the SPF and PPD values ​​of the measured composition. Viscosity evaluation protocol

[0208] The viscosity is evaluated using a Brookfield viscometer at 25°C. We use a mobile 2, due to the liquid texture of the formula. We calibrate the viscometer, then introduce the mobile into the product and let it rotate for 10 minutes. We take the measurement at 30 seconds and at 10 minutes. Protocol for evaluating the stability of the compositions of the invention

[0209] Each composition is placed in an oven at 55 °C for one week in 30 ml bottles. After one week, we remove the compositions and analyze their appearance macroscopically. Examples 1 to 4 of formulations

[0210] In these examples, the emulsions are prepared in the following manner.

[0211] The aqueous phase A and the oily phase B are heated separately to 90 °C. Once Once the aqueous phase is completely dissolved, it is agitated at 800 rpm under a stator rotor for 10 minutes to ensure thorough homogenization. After the oil phase is completely clear, the emulsification process begins by adding the oil phase to the aqueous phase. During the addition of the oil phase, the agitation speed is approximately 1300 rpm under a stator rotor. Once all the oil phase has been added, the agitation speed should be increased to 2300-2500 rpm for 10 minutes. Example 1 - Compositions 1 and 2

[0212] The following compositions are prepared (quantities in active ingredients). [Tables 1] Phase Composition 1 (invention) 2 (comparative) A AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 A DISODIUM EDTA 0.10 0.10 A PHENOXYETHANOL 0.40 0.40 A PROPANEDIOL 3.00 3.00 A CITRIC ACID 0.15 0.15 A GLYCERIN 7.00 7.00 B ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3.00 3.00 B OCTOCRYLENE 7.00 7.00 B ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5.00 5.00 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3.00 3.00 B HOMOSALATE 7.00 7.00 A CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 0.30 A DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.25 0.25 B C12-22 ALKYLACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER (Polymer 1) 1.50 1.50 B TOCOPHEROL 1.00 1.00 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL 0.61 0.61 B GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.30 - B JOJOBA ESTERS 0.30 0.30 B SUNFLOWER SEED WAX 0.12 0.12 A SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.12 0.12 Results obtained

[0213] The results of the sensory analysis and SPF evaluation are as follows. [Tables 2] Composition 1 (invention) 2 (comparative) SPF in vitro 45.6 ±2.2 34.4 ± 0.8 UVAPF in vitro 23.7 ± 0.9 18.8 ±0.3 Stability (1 week at 55 °C) stable unstable

[0214] Composition 1, which includes the surfactant system according to the invention, offers a higher level of sun protection than composition 2, which does not include all the ingredients of the surfactant system according to the invention. Furthermore, composition 1 is stable, which is not the case for composition 2. Example 2 - Compositions 3 and 4

[0215] The following compositions are prepared (quantities in raw materials). [Tables 3] Phase Composition 3 (invention) 4 (comparatif ) A AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 A DISODIUM EDTA 0,10 0,10 A PHENOXYETHANOL 0,40 0,40 A PROPANEDIOL 3,00 3,00 A CITRIC ACID 0,20 0,15 A GLYCERIN 7,00 7,00 B ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3,00 3,00 B OCTOCRYLENE 7,00 7,00 B ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5,00 5,00 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3,00 3,00 B HOMOSALATE 7,00 7,00 A CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,30 0,30 A DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (AMISOFT HS 21P de AJINOMOTO) 0,30 0,25 B C12-22 ALKYLACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER (TEGO SP SENSTAR de EVONIK) (Polymère 1) 1,50 1,50 B TOCOPHEROL 1,00 1,00 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (EMULIUM DOLCEA MB de GATTEFOSSE) 1,5 B POLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) CETYL ALCOHOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 BEESWAX (EMULIUM MELLIFERA MB de GATTEFOSSE) - 1,5 Résultats obtenus

[0216] The stability results of the compositions are as follows. [Tables 4] Composition 3 (invention) 4 (comparative) SPF in vitro 45.6 ± 2.2 31.0 ± 0.5 UVAPF in vitro 23.7 ± 0.9 17.0 ± 0.3 Stability (1 week at 55 °C) stable unstable

[0217] Composition 3, which comprises the surfactant system according to the invention, offers a higher level of sun protection than composition 4, which comprises a surfactant system different from that of the invention. Furthermore, composition 3 is stable, which is not the case for composition 4. Example 3 - Composition 5 to 7

[0218] The following compositions are prepared (quantities in raw materials). [Tables 5] Phase Composition 5 (invention) 6 (comparatif) 7 (comparatif) A AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 A DISODIUM EDTA 0,10 0,10 0,1 A PHENOXYETHANOL 0,40 0,40 0,40 A PROPANEDIOL 3,00 3,00 3,00 A CITRIC ACID 0,20 0,15 0,15 A GLYCERIN 7,00 7,00 7,00 B ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3,00 3,00 3,00 B OCTOCRYLENE 7,00 7,00 7,00 B ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5,00 5,00 5,00 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 3,00 3,00 3,00 B HOMOSALATE 7,00 7,00 7,00 A CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,30 0,30 0,30 A DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (AMISOFT HS 21P de AJINOMOTO) 0,30 0,30 0,30 B TOCOPHEROL 1,00 1,00 1,00 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HE-LIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 (EMULIUM DOLCEA MB de GATTEFOSSE) 1,50 3,00 B C12-22 ALKYLACRYLATE / HY- DROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER 1,50 - 3,00 (TEGO SP SENSTAR de EVONIK) (Polymère 1) Résultats obtenus

[0219] Les résultats de l’analyse sensorielle sont les suivants. [Tableauxô] Composition 5 (invention) 6 (comparative) 7 (comparative) SPF in vitro 45.6 ± 2.2 28.1 ± 0.8 Not measured UVAPF in vitro 23.7 + 0.9 16.2 + 0.4 Not measured Stability (1 week at 55 °C) stable unstable Emulsion impossible

[0220] Composition 5, which comprises the surfactant system and the lipophilic acrylate polymer according to the invention, offers a higher level of sun protection than composition 6, which does not comprise the lipophilic acrylate polymer according to the invention. Furthermore, composition 5 is stable, which is not the case for composition 6. As for composition 7, which does not comprise the surfactant system according to the invention, since the emulsion cannot be produced, it cannot be evaluated, particularly in terms of sun protection and stability. Example 4 - Compositions 8 and 9

[0221] The following compositions are prepared (quantities in raw materials). [Paintings?] Phase Composition 8 (invention) 9 (comparatif) A AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 A DISODIUM EDTA 0,10 0,10 A PHENOXYETHANOL 0,40 0,40 A PROPANEDIOL 3,00 3,00 A CITRIC ACID 0,20 0,20 A GLYCERIN 7,00 7,00 B ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3,00 3,00 B OCTOCRYLENE 7,00 7,00 B ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5,00 5,00 B BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 3,00 3,00 B HOMOSALATE 7,00 7,00 A CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,30 0,30 A DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (AMISOFT HS 21P de AJINOMOTO) 0,30 0,25 B C12-22 ALKYLACRYLATE / HY-DROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER (TEGO SP SENSTAR de EVONIK) (Polymère 1) 1,50 B TOCOPHEROL 1,00 1,00 B CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED CERA (and) POLY-GLYCERIN-3 (EMULIUM DOLCEA MB de GATTEFOSSE) 1,5 B GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE - 3,00 (ARLACEL 165-FP-PA-(RB) de CRODA) Résultats obtenus

[0222] Les résultats de l’analyse sensorielle sont les suivants. [Tableaux8] Composition 8 (invention) 9 (comparative) SPF in vitro 45.6 ± 2.2 22.6 ± 2.0 UVAPF in vitro 23.7 ± 0.9 13.3 ± 0.9 Stability (1 week at 55 °C) stable Slightly unstable

[0223] Composition 8, which includes the surfactant system and the lipophilic acrylate polymer according to the invention, exhibits a higher level of sun protection and stability than composition 9, which is stabilized by another surfactant system. Example 5 - Composition 10 to 15 - Influence of pH

[0224] The following compositions are prepared (quantities in raw materials). [Tables 9] Phas e Composition 10 (pH =4,5) 11 (pH =5,5) 12 (pH = 6) 13 (pH =6,5) 14 (pH = 8) 15 (pH = 9) Al WATER 36,25 36,25 36,25 36,25 36,25 36,25 Al TRISODIUM ETHYLE NEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 0,3 Al HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 Al CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 Al PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 3 3 3 Al CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) JOJOBA ESTERS (and) GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE (and) HE-LIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 Al SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 Al GLYCERIN 7 7 7 7 7 7 A2 SODIUM STARCH OCTENYL-SUCCINATE (and) HY-DROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 0,5 A2 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYL- DIMETHYL TAURATE 0,45 0,45 0,45 0,45 0,45 0,45 B1 OCTOCRYLENE 7 7 7 7 7 7 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 5 5 5 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBEN-ZOYLMETHANE 3 3 3 3 3 3 B1 HOMOSALATE 7 7 7 7 7 7 B1 C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5 COPOLYMER Bl C15-19 ALKANE 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Bl C15-19 ALKANE 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 B2 TOCOPHEROL 1 1 1 1 1 1 C WATER 20 20 20 20 20 20 D CITRIC ACID 0.25 0.072 0.046 / / / D SODIUM HYDROXIDE / / / / 0.095 0.197 Preparation method

[0225] Weighing the phases, heating phase A1 in the main tank to 72 °C and heating phase B1 in an annex to 72 °C as well. Once the temperature is reached, adding phase A2 to phase A1 (in the main tank). Adding phase B2 to phase B1 just before emulsification. Introducing phase B (B1 + B2) into the main tank and emulsifying for 15 minutes. Introducing phase C into the main tank and then cooling to 25 °C. To reach the target pH, adding either citric acid or sodium hydroxide. pH evaluation protocol

[0226] Calibrate the Mettler Toledo SevenGo SG2 pH meter with a sufficient quantity of buffer solution to ensure immersion of the electrode (approximately 2 cm) (pH buffer 7, 4 then 9, rinsing the electrode with demineralized water between each pH).

[0227] Next, proceed to measure the pH: - Immerse the tip of the Mettler Toledo InLab Solids Pro SM electrode in the compositions whose pH is to be measured. - Maintain agitation during measurement so that the glass membrane remains in direct contact with the composition. - Record the pH and temperature values. - Rinse the electrode with demineralized water. - The pH value will be expressed with one decimal place and associated with a temperature (expressed in °C, without decimal place). Results obtained

[0228] The results obtained after 24 hours at room temperature (25 °C) are as follows. [Tables 10]Composition 10 (pH = 4.5) 11 (pH = 5.5) 12 (pH = 6) Macroscopic appearance at t = 0 and T = 25 °C Compact cream Semi-thick cream Fluid cream Microscopic appearance at t = 0 and T = 25 °C Fine emulsion, loose edges in some areas of the emulsion, anisotropic flakes Fine emulsion, sharp edges, anisotropic clumps Fine emulsion, sharp edges, no anisotropy Viscosity (mPa.s) at 30 seconds and then at 10 minutes 30 s: 4080 10 min: 3140 30 s: 496 10 min: 492 30 s: 545 10 min: 500 SPF in vitro 31.6 ± 1.5 33.4 ± 1.1 43.6 ±0.5 UVAPF in vitro 15.7 + 0.6 16.6 ±0.4 20.6 ± 0.3 Stability: 1 week at 55°C Appearance, color, odor: Slight yellowing of the formula, slight surface syneresis, slight "cereal" odor. Microscopy: Loose edges, anisotropic clumps. Appearance, color, odor: Few points of surface syneresis, faint "cereal" odor. Microscopy: Sharp edges, fine and isotropic emulsion. Appearance, color, odor: Smooth, glossy, white cream, odorless.Microscopy: Sharp edges, thin and isotropic emulsion. [Tableauxll] Composition 13 (pH = 6.5) 14 (pH = 8) 15 (pH = 9) Macroscopic appearance Fluid cream Fluid cream Very fluid cream Microscopic appearance Fine emulsion, sharp edges, no anisotropy Fine emulsion, sharp edges, no anisotropy Fine emulsion, sharp edges, no anisotropy Viscosity (mPa.s) at 30 seconds and then at 10 minutes 30 s: 518 1 min: 500 30 s: 303 10 min: 295 30 s: 256 10 min: 224 SPF in vitro 43.8 ± 2.2 50.7 ± 2.9 56.3 ± 1.6 UVAPF in vitro 20.1 ± 0.8 22.4 ± 1.1 23.6 ± 0.4 Stability: 1 week at 55°C. Appearance, color, odor: Smooth, glossy, white cream, odorless. Microscopy: Sharp edges, fine, isotropic emulsion. Appearance, color, odor: Slight browning on the surface, faint "plastic" odor. Microscopy: Sharp edges, fine, isotropic emulsion. Appearance, color, odor: Browning on the surface, slight "plastic" odor. Microscopy: Sharp edges, very fluid, isotropic fine emulsion.

[0229] Compositions 12 to 15, with a pH greater than or equal to 6, have an improved level of sun protection compared to those of compositions 10 and 11, which have a pH less than 6.

[0230] Compositions 12 to 13, whose pH is less than 8, exhibit improved stability compared to compositions 10 and 11, whose pH is less than 6, and compositions 14 and 15, whose pH is greater than or equal to 8.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic or dermatological, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: - at least one UV filter; - at least one polymer comprising monomeric units of formulas (A) and (B): [chem 1] OH | in which: RI, independently of each other, is chosen from among the alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals selected from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage referring to the sum of all RI groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1; and the sum of the total units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer, the polymer having an average molecular weight in number Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g / mol; - at least one C2-C24 fatty acid ester and C2-C24 polyol ester; and - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C3o hydrocarbon chain and their salts; the pH of the composition being greater than or equal to 6.

2. Composition according to claim 1 having a pH between 6.0 and 11.0; preferably between 6.0 and 9.0; and even more preferably between 6.0 and 7.

8.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 wherein the UV filter(s) are selected from water-soluble organic UV filters, fat-soluble organic UV filters, insoluble organic UV filters, inorganic UV filters, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the UV filter(s) are selected from liposoluble organic UV filters; preferably selected from dibenzoylmethane compounds, salicylic compounds, [3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds, benzophenone compounds, phenyl benzotriazole compounds, triazine compounds and mixtures thereof; and more preferably from homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, drometrizole trisiloxane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, di-ethylhexyl butamido triazone, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the quantity of the UV filter(s) ranges from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, and even better from 10% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer RI consists of an alkyl radical, preferably a Ci6-C22 alkyl radical, and more preferably a behenyl or stearyl radical.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 70% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl or stearyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer all RI groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably from 1:10 to 1:

4.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 in in which the lipophilic acrylic polymer has an average molecular weight in number Mn ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g / mol.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 wherein the lipophilic acrylic polymer has a melting temperature from 40 °C to 70 °C, and preferably from 45 °C to 67 °C.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point of 40 to 60 °C, and preferably of 45 to 55 °C.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 wherein in the lipophilic acrylic polymer at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl radicals, and said polymer has a melting point of 60 °C to 70 °C, and preferably of 63 °C to 67 °C.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 wherein the lipophilic acrylic polymer(s) are present in an active material content of 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the C2-C24 fatty acid ester(s) and C2-C24 polyol ester(s) are selected from fatty acid and glycerol esters, preferably selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

16. VI. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 wherein the fatty acid and C2-C24 polyol ester(s) are present in an amount from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 wherein the anionic carboxylic surfactant(s) or carboxylate(s) are selected from the following structural compounds: [chem 2] 0 ^(CH^n COOM z N ' XYZ represents a C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, linear or branched; X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; n is equal to 0 or 1; Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2C(O)O M+ group; and M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine.

18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 wherein the anionic carboxylic surfactant(s) or carboxylate(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, better from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and even better from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 comprising at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol, preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauric alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, preferably behenic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol, the fatty alcohol(s) being preferably present in an amount from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 comprising at least one wax, in particular at least one jojoba ester wax, preferably present in an amount from 0.1% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to claim 20 further comprising at least one helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.

22. A non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 21.