WATER-SOLUBLE EXTRACT FROM A PLANT OF THE SPECIES OF THE GENUS PRUNUS TO PREVENT THE HARMFUL EFFECTS OF THE EXPOSOME

Abstract

WATER-SOLUBLE EXTRACT FROM A PLANT OF THE PRUNUS SPECIES TO PREVENT THE DELETE EFFECTS OF THE EXPOSOME. The present invention relates to the use of a flower extract from a plant of the Rosaceae family and the Prunus genus, or a composition thereof, to protect the skin from the deleterious effects of the exposome, including disruption of the barrier function, neurogenic inflammation, irritation, and oxidative stress. The invention is thus intended to prevent the clinical signs of premature aging, including the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots responsible for loss of skin tone uniformity and skin hyperreactivity.

Description

Title of the invention: WATER-SOLUBLE EXTRACT FROM A PLANT OF A SPECIES OF THE GENUS PRUNUS TO PREVENT THE HARMFUL EFFECTS OF THE EXPOSOME

[0001] The present invention relates to the use of a flower extract from a plant of the Rosaceae family and the Prunus genus, or a composition thereof, to protect the skin from the deleterious effects of the exposome, including disruption of the barrier function, neurogenic inflammation, irritation, and oxidative stress. The invention is thus intended to prevent the clinical signs of premature aging, including the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots responsible for loss of skin tone uniformity and skin hyperreactivity.

[0002] The main function of the epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin, is to produce a stratum corneum, formed from the accumulation of corneocytes.

[0003] These dead, anucleated cells originate from the terminal differentiation process of keratinocytes. These corneocytes adhere strongly to one another in the stratum compactum, the deep layer of the stratum corneum.

[0004] On the surface of the stratum corneum, the most superficial corneocytes of the stratum disjunctum are eliminated by the desquamation process.

[0005] The stratum corneum largely ensures the barrier function of the skin, the function of which is to limit the dehydration of the body and the penetration of exogenous agents (chemical agents, irritants, pollutants, bacteria, viruses, allergens...).

[0006] During their differentiation and migration to the superficial layers (spinous and granular), living keratinocytes express numerous markers involved in the formation of the corneal envelope (Involucrin, SPRRs, Scielin...), in the production of the intercorneocyte lipid cement (glycerol-3-phosphate acyltransferase 3...), in the adhesion of corneocytes (corneodesmosin), in desquamation (kallikreins 5 and 7), in the production of the natural hydration factor (Caspase 14), in the regulation of the microbiota (antimicrobial peptides).

[0007] In the epidermis, there is an increasing calcium gradient from the basal layer to the granular layer. This gradient plays a role in the regulation of terminal differentiation. It is involved in the activation of the expression of keratinocyte differentiation genes and in the stimulation of enzymes responsible for the covalent bonds of the various components of the stratum corneum, such as transglutaminase 1.

[0008] In living layers, structures such as desmosomes and tight junctions ensure strong cohesion between keratinocytes and are essential for maintaining the integrity of the epidermis and its homeostasis.

[0009] This homeostasis is essential to preserve an optimal skin barrier and to prevent certain skin disorders.

[0010] At the level of the basal layer of the epidermis, melanocytes ensure the production of melanin, a pigment largely responsible for skin color, and essential for photoprotection.

[0011] Environmental stresses including UV radiation and other factors (pollutants, chemical agents, irritants, allergens, etc.), grouped under the term exposome, can alter the terminal differentiation program of keratinocytes and overactivate melanin production by melanocytes.

[0012] The exposome can therefore weaken the epidermis and its barrier function, and promote the overproduction of melanin and thus the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots.

[0013] The exposome

[0014] The exposome was first introduced by Dr. Christopher Wild in 2005 (Complementing the genome with an "exposome": the outstanding challenge of environmental exposure measurement in molecular epidemiology. Cancer Epidemiol Biomarkers Prev. 2005 Aug;14(8):1847-50). It corresponds to all the exposures to which a person is subjected throughout their life, from conception to death.

[0015] The exposome includes external factors such as air pollutants, irritants, solar radiation, climate, but also internal factors such as diet, lifestyle, sleep quality, sedentary behavior or stress levels.

[0016] The exposome was redefined in 2014 by Miller and Jones (The nature of nurture: refining the definition of the exposome. Toxicol Sci. 2014 Jan; 137(1): 1-2. doi: 10.1093 / toxsci / kft251. Epub 2013 Nov 9.).

[0017] The two researchers specify that it corresponds to the cumulative measures of environmental influences and corresponding biological responses felt over a lifetime, including exposure to environmental factors, nutrition, behavior and endogenous processes.

[0018] The cutaneous exposome

[0019] Like other organs, the skin, as an interface between our body and our environment, is also sensitive to exposome factors. The factors to which it is subjected have been grouped under the term cutaneous exposome.

[0020] The cutaneous exposome specifies the set of beneficial or deleterious exposures to which our skin is confronted throughout our lives.

[0021] Genetics and age are only marginally involved in skin disorders, while the exposome is responsible for 80% of the appearance of signs of skin aging.

[0022] Effects of the exposome on the skin

[0023] Environmental factors, including UV radiation, air pollutants, or even certain irritants (surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate, SLS) sometimes present in skincare products, disrupt skin homeostasis. They weaken the structure of the stratum corneum and consequently impair the barrier function.

[0024] An impaired barrier function is also generally associated with dry, fragile and reactive skin.

[0025] The stratum corneum, no longer ensuring optimal impermeability, becomes more porous and contributes to the increased penetration of exogenous agents (chemical agents, irritants, pollutants, bacteria, viruses, allergens, etc.). These cause the production and accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the depletion of endogenous antioxidant defenses.

[0026] These agents are also identified as non-self antigens, whose binding to immune receptors, Toll-like receptors (TLRs), stimulates downstream, along with ROS, the key signaling pathway of inflammation, the NF-κB pathway. The latter leads to the production of pro-inflammatory mediators via the modulation of the transcription of certain target genes encoding chemokines, pro-inflammatory cytokines or growth factors involved in neurogenic inflammation (IL-α, IL-1[3, IL-8, IL-6, IL-10, IL-17, IL-12, TNF-α, FGF, NGF...).

[0027] In the case of UV irradiation, direct damage to DNA (formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers / cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer, CPD) or indirect damage induced by the accumulation of ROS also activates the NF-kB pathway, which triggers the inflammatory response.

[0028] The accumulation of NGF (Nerve Growth Factor) contributes to exaggerating the inflammatory response by triggering neurogenic inflammation. Indeed, NGF indirectly activates the TRPV1 (transient receptor potential vanilloid type 1) receptor, via its NTRK1 (neurotrophic receptor tyrosine kinase 1) receptor, and contributes to the excessive release of neuropeptides, such as CGRP (calcitonin gene-related peptide), an important mediator of neurogenic inflammation.

[0029] This phenomenon contributes to the hypersensitivity of cutaneous nerve fibers and to the sensations of discomfort of hyper-reactive or sensitized skin.

[0030] The failure to resolve the inflammatory state and neurogenic inflammation makes these manifestations persistent and chronic. This is referred to as low-grade inflammation, accompanied by the continuous, but low-level, production and release of cytokines, growth factors, and neuropeptides. These disrupt the terminal epidermal differentiation process, further weakening the skin barrier and perpetuating the hypersensitivity of cutaneous nerve fibers and the resulting discomfort.

[0031] In addition, the low-grade inflammatory state is also involved in premature skin aging, known as inflammaging, and also plays a role in increasing melanin production by melanocytes, which leads to the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots.

[0032] Given the significant impact that the cutaneous exposome can have on the beauty of the skin, it has become essential to develop strategies aimed at preventing or limiting its deleterious effects at the molecular, cellular and tissue levels in order to prevent the cutaneous signs for which it is responsible: disruption of the skin barrier, premature aging, appearance of hyperpigmentation spots and loss of homogeneity of complexion due to low grade inflammation, hyper-reactivity and skin discomfort due to neurogenic inflammation.

[0033] The present invention aims to meet these needs by proposing a new active ingredient that strengthens and makes the skin less sensitive to the various deleterious exposome factors to which it is subjected.

[0034] In particular, the invention aims to provide a new active ingredient capable of strengthening the barrier function and improving skin hydration, limiting oxidative stress, inflammation and neurogenic inflammation caused by exposome factors and their clinical consequences, such as the loss of evenness of complexion characterized by the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots.

[0035] It also aims to provide a new active ingredient capable of activating skin repair processes for an acceleration of the establishment of an optimal barrier function and a rapid soothing effect following irritation.

[0036] It is with this in mind that the applicant company carried out extensive research and demonstrated that an extract obtained from flowers of plants of the genus Prunus made it possible to meet the objectives of the invention.

[0037] Thus, the invention relates to the cosmetic use, on healthy skin, of a water-soluble extract of a flowering plant from the Rosaceae family and belonging to a species chosen from the genus Prunus to prevent or limit the deleterious effects on the skin of exposome factors.

[0038] In the context of the invention, "healthy skin" means skin that is considered non-pathological by a dermatologist, that is to say, skin that does not present any infection, skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or injury.

[0039] According to the invention, the exposome factors are UV, skin irritants or air pollutants.

[0040] According to one embodiment, the prevention or limitation of the deleterious effects on the skin of exposome factors includes the strengthening and repair of the skin barrier.

[0041] This strengthening and repair are particularly remarkable following exposure to UV radiation or skin irritants. Indeed, the invention has demonstrated the activation of terminal keratinocyte differentiation markers under UV exposure conditions, as well as rapid repair in volunteers after damage induced by a skin irritant.

[0042] According to one embodiment, the prevention or limitation of the deleterious effects on the skin of exposome factors includes the protection of the skin against neurogenic inflammation responsible for skin discomfort.

[0043] This protection is particularly remarkable following exposure to UV radiation or skin irritants. Indeed, the invention has demonstrated an inhibition of the production of NGF, a mediator of neurogenic inflammation induced by UV radiation and a skin irritant.

[0044] This protection is particularly noticeable when sensory neurons co-cultured with keratinocytes are exposed to capsaicin, a molecule that activates the TRPV1 receptor, which plays an important role in pain sensation and inflammation. Indeed, capsaicin has been shown to inhibit the release of calcitonin gene-related peptide (CGRP), an important mediator of neurogenic inflammation, induced by capsaicin.

[0045] According to another embodiment, the prevention or limitation of the deleterious effects on the skin of exposome factors includes protection against oxidative stress, which is responsible for premature aging.

[0046] This protection is particularly remarkable following exposure to pollutants and UV radiation. Indeed, within the framework of the invention, an inhibition of the expression of an oxidative stress marker, HO-1, induced by pollutants, has been demonstrated.

[0047] According to another embodiment, the prevention or limitation of the deleterious effects on the skin of exposome factors includes the preservation of the homogeneity of the complexion and the prevention of the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots.

[0048] This protection is particularly remarkable following exposure to pollutants and UV radiation. Indeed, within the framework of the invention, an inhibition of the oxidation and browning of melanin induced by pollutants has been demonstrated.

[0049] According to another embodiment, the prevention or limitation of the deleterious effects on the skin of exposome factors includes the preservation of skin hydration.

[0050] According to another embodiment, the prevention or limitation of the deleterious effects on the skin of exposome factors includes the soothing and repair of the skin after irritation.

[0051] This protection is particularly remarkable following exposure to skin irritants. Indeed, within the scope of the invention, an improvement in microcirculation and barrier function has been demonstrated after damage induced by a skin irritant.

[0052] Advantageously, the water-soluble extract is derived from a flower of a species chosen more particularly from Prunus domestica, Prunus spinosa, Prunus sibirica, Prunus nigra, Prunus persica or Prunus armeniaca.

[0053] The extract used in the context of the invention is as described below.

[0054] The invention further relates to a water-soluble extract from the flowers of a plant of The rose family, belonging to a species chosen from the genus Prunus, characterized by: - A dry matter content greater than 5g / L of liquid extract, preferably between 5 and 100 g / L of liquid extract, more preferably between 10 and 50 g / L of liquid extract; - Between 2 and 10g of total amino acids per 100g of dry extract, preferably between 3 and 8g of total amino acids per 100g of dry extract; - Between 0.5 and 5g of total polyphenols per 100g of dry extract, preferably between 1 and 3g per 100g of dry extract.

[0055] Prunus flowers can be harvested at an early stage as well as at a mature stage. These flowers can be subjected to a partial or even total drying stage.

[0056] Preferably, the Prunus flower is a fresh, partially dried flower which exhibits better reproducibility of the composition of the extract.

[0057] According to one embodiment, the plant extract is a cosmetically acceptable aqueous or hydroglycolic extract, which can, for example, but not exclusively, be obtained by macerating the plant material in an aqueous vehicle, according to a conventional technique.

[0058] For example, the extract according to the invention can be obtained by immersing the plant raw material in a hot solvent with a solvent / raw material mass ratio of between 5 / 1 and 9 / 1, for a period of a few hours, for example three hours. The pH can be adjusted before or after extraction in the aqueous mixture. The temperature of the solvent used can be between approximately 30 and 70°C.

[0059] Preferably and advantageously, the extract can be obtained by extraction from the raw material using an extraction vehicle containing water and glycerin, the glycerin potentially being present in the final solvent in a greater quantity by weight than the water. The temperature of this solvent can, in particular, be between approximately 30 and 70°C, for example between 35 and 65°C. The extraction time can be several hours, for example between 2 and 24 hours.

[0060] Numerous techniques can be employed, such as maceration, leaching, decoction, infusion, Soxhlet extraction, ultrasound, or microwaves, with or without solvents, as well as more advanced techniques such as supercritical fluids and subcritical water. The extract according to the invention can be hydrolyzed during extraction or after decantation.

[0061] According to one feature of the invention, the amino acids contained in the extract include in majority at least one amino acid selected from glutamic acid, cysteine, aspartic acid, proline, glycine or a mixture thereof, preferably glutamic acid.

[0062] For the purposes of the invention, "in the majority" means that the aforementioned amino acids are present at a content of between 55 and 95% and more preferably between 60 and 90%, by total weight of amino acids.

[0063] Preferably, in the context of the invention, the determination of the total amino acid content is carried out by hydrolysis. The extract according to the invention is weighed and then diluted in an acidic solution. After 24 hours of acid hydrolysis, the solution is neutralized. The total amino acids are then derived, since most amino acids lack a chromophore. To this end, 6-aminoquinolyl-N-hydroxysccinimidyl carbamate is added in excess to the hydrolysate. The derived amino acids are then separated by reversed-phase UPLC. The products are then detected by UV at a wavelength of 260 nm. Quantification is performed using amino acid standards.

[0064] Advantageously, the amino acids contained in the extract include mostly glutamic acid.

[0065] The literature review illustrated in Table 1 below on knowledge of glutamic acid content on total amino acids shows that the extract according to the invention has the highest glutamic acid content among referenced Prunus species, variable tissue.

[0066] [Tables 1] Species, tissue Glutamic acid (% / total amino acid) Reference Prunus domestica, fruit 14 Lenchyk et al., 2020 Prunus domestica, flowers 87 Applicant Prunus persica, fruit 1.8 Sun et al., 2022 Prunus sibirica 27 Yin et al., 2020

[0067] According to another feature of the invention, the polyphenols contained in the extract include at least one phenolic acid and / or at least one flavonoid.

[0068] Preferably, the polyphenols include at least one phenolic acid selected from neochlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid glycerol, chlorogenic acid, cryptochlorogenic acid, hydroxybenzoic acid glycerol, caffeoyl glycerol or a mixture thereof.

[0069] Preferably, the polyphenols include at least one flavonoid selected from kaempferol di-rhamnoside, kaempferol-O-pentoside-O-rhamnoside, quercetin-O-rhamnoside-O-hexoside, kaempferol di-pentoside, quercetin-O-pentoside, quercetin-O-rhamnoside, kaempferol-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside, kaempferol-O-pentoside, kaempferol-O-rhamnoside, or a mixture thereof.

[0070] The total polyphenol content of the extracts according to the invention is evaluated by the Folin-Ciocalteu test, which is well known to those skilled in the art.

[0071] The invention further relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one extract as defined above.

[0072] Advantageously, in this composition, the extract is used at a concentration between 0.0005% by weight and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Preferably, the composition is in a form suitable for topical application.

[0074] The composition according to the invention can in particular be formulated in the form of a cream, lotion, emulsion, milk, gel, foam or spray.

[0075] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one other compound such as an active agent, a moisturizing compound, a preservative, a solvent or any other adjuvant commonly used in the field of cosmetics.

[0076] The invention further relates to a cosmetic treatment method to preserve the skin from the deleterious effects of exposome factors, to prevent and to combat its effects, comprising the topical application, on healthy skin or healthy mucous membranes, of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract as described above.

[0077] For the purposes of the invention, "cosmetic treatment" or "non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment" means a cosmetic process or treatment applied to skin or mucous membranes considered healthy by a dermatologist, that is to say, which does not present any infection, skin disease, condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or injury.

[0078] The features of the invention mentioned above, as well as others, will become clearer upon reading the examples that follow.

[0079] Example 1: Methods for obtaining extracts according to the invention

[0080] Example of extraction A: Hot hydroglycolic extraction (water / glycerin)

[0081] - Incorporation of 64 kg of rosacea flowers into 100 kg of a mixture hydroglycolic.

[0082] - Heating between 35 and 65°C.

[0083] - Heating and solubilization time between 2H and 24H.

[0084] - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases by decantation and / or centrifugation and / or filtration.

[0085] - The extract is then filtered through bags and then filtered through membranes down to 2µm.

[0086] Example of extraction B: Hydroglycolic extraction and immobilization on a solid support (water / glycerin)

[0087] - Incorporation of 64 kg of rosaceous flowers into 100 kg of a mixture of hydroglycolic.

[0088] - Heating between 35 and 65°C.

[0089] - Heating and solubilization time between 2H and 24H.

[0090] - Separation of soluble and insoluble phases by decantation and / or centrifugation and / or filtration.

[0091] - Selection on solid support.

[0092] - The extract is then filtered through bags and then filtered through membranes down to 2 pm.

[0093] Example of extraction C: Aqueous extraction

[0094] - Incorporation of 64Kg of rosacea flowers in 100Kg of water.

[0095] - Enzymatic reaction step with an enzyme cocktail. Advantageously, The enzymatic reaction step takes place at neutral pH, at a temperature below 50°C, for 2 to 24 hours, and with a cocktail of enzymes having at least pectinase activity and cellulase activity.

[0096] - After deactivation of the enzymes, the extract is centrifuged and then filtered through membranes until 2 pm.

[0097] Example of extraction D: Hydroglycolic extraction (water / ethanol)

[0098] - Incorporation of 64Kg of rosacea flowers into 100Kg of a water / ethanol mixture.

[0099] - Extraction at a temperature of 35 to 65°C for 2 to 24 hours.

[0100] - The extract is then filtered through bags and then filtered through membranes down to 2 µm. The solvents are evaporated under vacuum.

[0101] Example 2: Obtaining extracts

[0102] Extracts of flowers of Prunus domestica, Prunus spinosa, Prunus sibirica, Prunus persica and Prunus armeniaca were obtained by extraction method A shown in Example 1.

[0103] The total polyphenol content of the extracts obtained is determined by the well-known Folin-Ciocalteu method. The results obtained for the total polyphenol content by the Folin-Ciocalteu method are presented in Table 2 below:

[0104] [Tables2] Species, Tissue Extraction Solvent Gallic Acid Equivalent Content Prunus domestica Water / glycerin 1.66 mg / g liquid extract Prunus spinosa Water / glycerin 1.39 mg / g liquid extract Prunus sibirica Water / glycerin 1.21 mg / g liquid extract Prunus persica Water / glycerin 1.09 mg / g liquid extract Prunus armeniaca Water / glycerin 0.97 mg / g liquid extract

[0105] The characterization of the main phenolic compounds of the Prunus domestica extract was determined by a UPLC-DAD-MS measurement well known to those skilled in the art (Table 3).

[0106] [Tables3] Phenolic acids Neochlorogenic acid (3-CQA) Protocatechuic acid glycerol Chlorogenic acid (5-CQA) Cryptochlorogenic acid (4-CQA) Flavonoids Kaempferol di-rhamnoside Kaempferol- O-pento side-0 -rhamno side Quercetin-O-rhamnoside-O-hexoside Kaempferol dipentoside Quercetin-O-pentoside Quercetin-O-rhamnoside Kaempferol- O-hexo side- O-rhamno side Kaempferol-O-pentoside Kaempferol-O-rhamnoside

[0107] Example 3: Strengthening of the skin barrier

[0108] The effects of an aqueous extract of Prunus domestica obtained in Example 2 were evaluated on the expression of markers of terminal epidermal differentiation in cultured keratinocytes.

[0109] The protein level study is carried out on 3 reference markers of terminal differentiation and epidermal integrity.

[0110] Protocol

[0111] The study was performed on cultured normal human keratinocytes (NHEK).

[0112] NHEKs were seeded on 0.7 cm2 glass slides (Millipore, PEZGS0816) in complete medium 24h before treatment.

[0113] They were then treated or not (low calcium condition) for 72h with the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in example 2 at a concentration of 2% (n=3).

[0114] In parallel, the cells were also cultured under hypercalcic conditions (1.8 mM CaC12) in order to induce the expression of the 3 reference proteins, used as markers of terminal epidermal differentiation: involucrin, Claudin 4 and transglutaminase 1.

[0115] At the end of the treatments, the NHEKs were fixed and placed in the presence of primary antibodies specific to the 3 reference proteins. Secondary antibodies conjugated to fluorescein were then used to detect primary antibodies.

[0116] DAPI or 4',6'-diamidino-2-phenylindole, a fluorescent molecule capable of binding to the adenine and thymine bases of DNA, has been used to detect cell nuclei.

[0117] The slides were mounted with Mowiol (Sigma, 32.459-0) or ProLong Diamond Antifade mount (Thermo Fisher, P36962) and stored at 4°C and in the dark until 3 images were captured per culture, using a microscope and Leica camera, respectively DM 2000, 40x objective and DFC420C.

[0118] For each of the conditions, 9 photos representative of the observed marking were thus recorded.

[0119] Image analysis using QWin software (Leica) made it possible to express the fluorescence-labeled cell surface area using pixels as the unit of area (1 pixel = 1 sq m²). One image is represented using 4,761,460 pixels.

[0120] The average intensity of the marking was determined for each photo.

[0121] The nuclei were quantified using the ImageJ program to report the marked area and the average intensity of the staining to the number of cells per image.

[0122] For statistical analyses, a Student's t-test was performed to compare the effect of each treatment with the controls.

[0123] Results

[0124] Table 4 below summarizes the results of the analyses of the quantifications of the immunolabelings carried out on the NHEK cultured in low calcium, high calcium, or with the 2% extract.

[0125] For statistics, the values ​​of 0.01 <p<0,05 sont considérées comme significatives (*), 0,001<p<0,01 sont considérées comme très significatives (**) et p <0,001 sont très hautement significatives (***) (test t de Student par rapport au contrôle non traité, bas calcium), ns : non significatif.

[0126] [Tables4] Quantification Immunostaining, Labeled cell surface area expressed in pixels Control Low calcium Control High calcium Extract (Ex.2) Involucrine 100 + 8 4005 + 953** 2552 + 339*** Claudin 4 100+114 5834 + 4345 ns 7496 +2492** Transglutaminase 1 100 + 27 327+ 114* 980 + 203**

[0127] The 2% aqueous extract of Prunus domestica significantly activated the expression of proteins involved in the integrity of the epidermis and its differentiation, demonstrating barrier function strengthening properties.

[0128] Example 4: Improvement of stratum corneum hydration

[0129] Optimal barrier function is associated with better hydration of the stratum corneum. Thus, the effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in Example 2 were evaluated on skin hydration using an ex vivo model of cultured human skin explants with the aid of a corneometer.

[0130] Protocol

[0131] Skin expiants from abdominoplasty (n=3) were used within one hour of the plastic surgery procedure. Skin discs 28 mm in diameter were prepared and cultured in 6-well plate inserts.

[0132] The aqueous extract of Prunus domestica was diluted to 3% in distilled water and then applied to the skin surface at a rate of 4 µl / cm². The skin fragments were massaged for 20 seconds with a finger cot. The skin excipients were then placed in survival mode.

[0133] Skin hydration was measured using a corneometer. Hydration was measured in the same way at T0 and after 1, 2, 4, 8, 12, and 24 hours of culture. Three measurements were taken per expiry.

[0134] Results are expressed as a percentage relative to T0. A one-way ANOVA statistical analysis was performed, followed, if necessary, by Fisher's exact test. The significance level was set at p < 0.05.

[0135] Results

[0136] Table 5 below summarizes the average hydration rates (% / T0) of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica as a function of time ***p<0.001 versus control.

[0137] [Tables5] Control Aqueous Extract Time (Hour) Mean (%) Standard Deviation Mean (%) Standard Deviation T0 MIN 100.0 2.25 100.0 2.57 T1h 96.5 1.98 153.89*** 4.9 T2h 103.1 3.43 141.62*** 4.01 T4h 97.9 2.95 141.18*** 4.85 T8h 100.5 3.2 127.23*** 3.4 T12h 100.0 2.5 123.49*** 3.85 T24h 97.3 2.77 117.21*** 3.97

[0138] Topical application of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica significantly increased the hydration of the stratum corneum in the short and long term and after a single application.

[0139] Example 5: Strengthening and protection of the skin barrier against exposome stress, UVA radiation

[0140] Transcriptomic study performed on key markers of homeostasis and terminal epidermal differentiation under UVA stress

[0141] The effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in Example 2 were evaluated on the expression of markers of terminal epidermal differentiation in keratinocytes in cultures stressed by UVA irradiation.

[0142] Protocol

[0143] The study was carried out on cultured normal human keratinocytes (NHEK).

[0144] The cells were seeded in 24-well plates, 24h before treatment with the 3% aqueous extract of Prunus domestica shown in Example 2.

[0145] After 18 hours of treatment, the cells were irradiated by UVA at 5J / cm2 in PBS (phosphate buffered saline solution) in the absence of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica.

[0146] Next, the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica was reapplied for 6 hours.

[0147] At the end of the treatments, the total RNAs were extracted with the Qiagen RNeasy kit and stored at -80°C. The integrity of the samples was analyzed by spectrophotometry and capillary electrophoresis.

[0148] The cDNAs were then synthesized from the mRNAs by reverse transcription.

[0149] The effects with the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica were analyzed using TaqMan qPCR microfluidic matrices designed by StratiCELL and manufactured on demand by Applied Biosystems.

[0150] Among the genes represented, 3 internal controls or reference genes and genes of interest were used.

[0151] The TaqMan chips were processed as described in the manufacturer's instructions (Micro Fluidic Card Getting Started Guide, Applied Biosystems).

[0152] In brief, the cDNAs were mixed with a specific buffer (TaqMan Fast Advanced Master Mix, 4444557, Applied Biosystems) before being injected into the matrices and dispersed into the wells by centrifugation.

[0153] The matrices were sealed and qPCRs were performed using the Quantstudio7 real-time PCR system (Applied Biosystems) and its software (QuantStudio real-time PCR Software vl.3, Applied Biosystems).

[0154] Threshold cycles (Ct) were obtained for each gene. The result files were exported from the qPCR device and analyzed using DataAssist software (v3.01, Applied Biosystems) designed to perform relative quantification of gene expression using comparative Ct (AACt) (Pfaffl, 2001; Livak & Schmittgen, 2001), by a combination of statistical analyses.

[0155] Data with the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica were compared to the reference condition, i.e. the untreated irradiated control.

[0156] Ct values ​​were normalized with respect to the Ct of a reference gene present on the matrix ([32-microglobulin; B2M).

[0157] The maximum Ct threshold value has been set at 36 cycles.

[0158] Results

[0159] Table 6 below summarizes the significant effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica on gene expression compared to the untreated, irradiated control condition.

[0160] Table 6 lists the genes differentially expressed after 24 hours of treatment of NHEK keratinocytes with a 3% aqueous extract of Prunus domestica. Irradiation was performed after 18 hours of treatment. The symbol, gene name, relative expression (fold change, FC) compared to the irradiated untreated control (FC > 1: increase - FC < 1: decrease), and significance (p-value) are presented.

[0161] For statistics, the values ​​of 0.01 <p<0,05 sont considérées comme significatives, 0,001<p<0,01 très significatives et p <0,001 hautement (test t de student par rapport au contrôle non traité, irradié).

[0162] [Tableauxô] Main Functions Gene Symbol Gene Name FC (Fold change) UVA Stress + Aqueous extract 3% versus untreated irradiated control P Value Cell adhesion, epidermal integrity OCLN Occludin 3.19733 0.0173 CLDN1 Claudin 1 3.66218 0.00051 CLDN4 Claudin 4 6.03629 0.00386 CLDN7 Claudin 7 3.52259 4.9E-06 DSC1 Desmocollin 1 3.54719 0.06361 DSG1 Desmoglein 1 4.65396 0.01603 CDSN Comeodesmosin 7.63615 0.00294 Desquamation KLK5 Kallikrein 5 3.26837 0.0011 KLK7 Kallikrein 7 10.143 0.00032 Hydration, NM F CASP14 Caspase 14 2.35289 0.01782 Intercellular lipids GPAT3 Glycerol-3-phosphate acyltran sferase 3 3.3945 0.00939 Corneal envelope IVL Involucrine 5.43599 0.00546 SCEL Sciellin 5.04414 0.04727 SPRR1A Small proline-rich protein IA 7.1921 0.00916 TGM1 Transglutaminas e 1 11.1703 0.00012 Inflammation ne urogen NGF Nerve Growth Factor 0.26137 0.00781

[0163] UV radiation disrupts the expression of many markers of epidermal homeostasis.

[0164] In situations of UV stress, the 3% aqueous extract of Prunus domestica neutralizes the deleterious effects of UV on the barrier function, by activating the expression of Key markers involved in cell adhesion and the integrity of the epidermis and stratum corneum (Occludin, Claudin 1, Claudin 4, Claudin 7, Desmocollin 1, Desmoglein 1, Comeodesmosin). It also activated the expression of genes encoding key enzymes in the desquamation process and the production of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) (Kallikrein 5, Kallikrein 7, caspase 14) as well as genes involved in the formation of the stratum corneum and the intercorneal lipid cement (Glycerol-3-phosphate acyltransferase 3, Involucrin, Sciellin, Small proline-rich protein IA, Transglutaminase 1).

[0165] In addition, the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica significantly inhibited the expression of the gene encoding NGF, a key factor in neurogenic inflammation, involved in nerve fiber hypersensitization and sensations of skin discomfort.

[0166] Example 6: Protection against neurogenic inflammation induced by one of the exposome stressors: a skin irritant, Iss

[0167] Protein level study carried out on NGF, a key marker of neurogenic inflammation, in a situation of skin irritation stress induced by sodium lauryl sulfate (LSS).

[0168] The effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in Example 2 were evaluated on LSS-induced NGF expression using an ex vivo model of cultured human skin explants.

[0169] Protocol

[0170] Human skin expiants with an average diameter of 12 mm (±1 mm) were prepared from an abdominoplasty from a 54-year-old Caucasian woman (reference: P2377-AB54) with a phototype II (according to the Fitzpatrick skin type classification).

[0171] The expiants were kept alive in BEM (BIO-EC's Expiants Medium) culture medium at 37°C in a humid atmosphere and at 5% CO2.

[0172] The 3% aqueous extract of Prunus domestica was applied topically on the basis of 2 pL / cm2 and spread using a small spatula on day 0 (D0), D1 and D4 (before LSS stress).

[0173] The control expiations received no treatment except for the renewal of the culture medium.

[0174] The culture medium was renewed halfway (1ml per well) on J1 and completely on J4 (2ml per well).

[0175] On day 4, paper discs (9 mm in diameter) soaked with 30 µl of a 5% LSS solution (in sterile distilled water) were applied topically to the expiants.

[0176] The LSS discs were removed after 24 hours of contact with the skin.

[0177] At J5, at the end of contact with the LSS, the expiants are collected, fixed, dehydrated and embedded in paraffin.

[0178] Sections 5 pm thick are made using a microtome.

[0179] NGF immunostaining was performed on deparaffinized and rehydrated sections with an anti-NGF monoclonal antibody diluted in 0.3% PBS-BSA and incubated overnight at room temperature using a Vectastain Kit Vector avidin / biotin amplification system, and revealed by VIP, a substrate of peroxidase (Vector Laboratories, ref. SK-4600).

[0180] Immunostaining was performed manually and evaluated by microscopic observation.

[0181] For each batch of explants, the percentage of the region of interest covered by the staining due to NGF immunostaining (percentage of stained surface) is determined by image analysis according to the method described by Bio-EC using the CellAD software.

[0182] Results

[0183] Table 7 below summarizes the significant effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica on NGF expression in LSS-stressed expiants.

[0184] For statistical purposes, the values ​​of 0.001 <p<0,01 sont considérées comme très significatives (**), (test t de student par rapport au contrôle stressé lss, non traité).

[0185] [Tables7] Control (unstressed, untreated) Stressed with LSS, untreated Stressed LSS + Treated 3% Extract Mean % of marked surface 26.4 50.4 5.7** Standard deviation 6 6.7 6.9

[0186] LSS, a skin irritant, induced significant neurogenic inflammation, significantly stimulating NGF expression by 91%.

[0187] The aqueous extract of Prunus domestica applied topically to human skin expiants significantly decreased this LSS-induced NGF expression (-89%), demonstrating a protective effect of the latter against the skin irritant.

[0188] Example 7: Protection against neurogenic inflammation induced by cgrp release, following capsaicin activation of the trvpl receptor

[0189] Analysis of CGRP release by neurons stimulated by capsaicin, a TRPV1 receptor agonist, activator of sensory nerves and inducer of neurogenic inflammation

[0190] The effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in Example 2 were evaluated on the release of capsaicin-induced CGRP, using an in vitro co-culture model of sensory neurons and keratinocytes.

[0191] Protocol

[0192] Human sensory neurons are derived from hiPS cells (human induced pluripotent stem cells) obtained by transfection of human fibroblasts.

[0193] The cells are placed in 96-well plates coated with a thin layer of Matrigel® in a differentiation medium. The cells are incubated at 37 °C and 5% CO2 for 6 days, and the culture medium is changed every 2 days.

[0194] After 14 days of culture, keratinocytes are added above the sensory neurons. The co-culture will be maintained at 37°C and 5% CO2 in a suitable culture medium. The culture medium will be changed every 2 to 3 days.

[0195] On day 17 of culture, the medium is removed and fresh medium is added. The following conditions were applied: - Control medium, - Control medium + the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in Example 2 at 0.1%,

[0196] After 24 hours of incubation, the medium will be removed and fresh medium will be added.

[0197] The following conditions are carried out: - Control medium, - Control medium + capsaicin lOpM - Control medium + the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in example 2 + capsaicin lOpM.

[0198] After 30 minutes of incubation of the compounds, the supernatants are collected and stored at -80°C.

[0199] The amounts of CGRP released are measured by ELISA in the supernatants collected 30 minutes after capsaicin treatment. The results are compared to the capsaicin control.

[0200] Results

[0201] Table 8 below summarizes the significant effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica on the release of capsaicin-induced CGRP in a co-culture of sensory neurons / keratinocytes.

[0202] For statistics, p values ​​<0.001 are very highly significant (***) (Student's t-test compared to the stimulated, untreated control).

[0203] [Tables8] CGRP assay in culture supernatants Control unstimulated, untreated Capsaicin-stimulated, untreated Capsaicin-stimulated + Treated 0.1% extract CGRP quantity in pg / mL 1.56 2.04 1.60*** Standard deviation 0.04 0.07 0.02

[0204] Capsaicin activated CGRP release (+31%), demonstrating stimulation of the TRPV1 receptor, mediator of the neurogenic inflammatory response.

[0205] The aqueous extract of Prunus domestica prevents this release induced by capsaicin (-22%) thus demonstrating its protective properties against neurogenic inflammation and soothing properties in order to reduce nerve fiber hypersensitivity and skin discomfort.

[0206] Example 8: Protection against exposome stress-induced inflammation: air pollutants

[0207] Protein-level analysis of the expression and / or release of IL-8, a pro-inflammatory cytokine, under atmospheric pollutant-induced stress

[0208] The effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in Example 2 were evaluated on the expression and release of the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-8, by keratinocytes in cultures stressed by air pollutants.

[0209] Protocol

[0210] Keratinocytes were seeded in a 96-well plate and cultured for 24 hours in a culture medium.

[0211] The medium was then replaced with a culture medium containing or not (intoxication control) the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in Example 2 at 1% and the cells were intoxicated with Urban dust 1649b (Urban dust NIST® SRM® 1649b) at 0.5 mg / ml, containing the air pollutants.

[0212] In parallel, a non-toxicated control condition was performed. The cells were then incubated for 72 hours.

[0213] All experimental conditions were carried out in n=3, with the exception of the stimulated control condition carried out in n=6.

[0214] At the end of incubation, culture supernatants were collected to quantify IL-8 release.

[0215] IL-8 release was quantified by ELISA (Ref: DY208) following the instructions of the supplier R&D System.

[0216] Results

[0217] Table 9 below summarizes the significant effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica on the release of IL-8 by keratinocytes stressed by air pollutants.

[0218] For statistics, p values ​​<0.001 are very highly significant (***) (Student's t-test compared to the stressed control with urban dust).

[0219] [Tables9] IL-8 assay in culture supernatants Control unstressed, untreated Stressed with urban dust, untreated Stressed + treated 1% extract IL-8 quantity in pg / ml 87 486 210*** Standard deviation 15 24 29

[0220] Urban dust pollutants (Urban dust NIST® SRM® 1649b) strongly increased the expression and / or release of IL-8 (+459%), demonstrating an induction of the inflammatory response.

[0221] The aqueous extract of Prunus domestica prevents the expression and / or release of IL-8 induced by pollutants (-57%) thus demonstrating its anti-inflammatory and anti-pollution properties.

[0222] Example 9: Protection against oxidative stress induced by one of the exposome stressors: air pollutants

[0223] Protein-level analysis of the expression of Thém oxygenase-1, a marker of oxidative stress, under atmospheric pollutant-induced stress

[0224] The effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in Example 2 were evaluated on the expression of Theme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) induced by air pollutants, using an ex vivo model of cultured human skin explants.

[0225] Protocol

[0226] Human skin expiants with an average diameter of 12 mm (±1 mm) were prepared from an abdominoplasty from a 42-year-old Caucasian woman (reference: P2097- AB 42).

[0227] The expiants were kept alive in BEM (BIO-EC's Expiants Medium) culture medium at 37°C in a humid atmosphere and at 5% CO2.

[0228] The aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in the example 2 to 3% was applied topically on the basis of 2 pL / cm2 and spread using a small spatula on day 0 (D0), D1, D2 and D5 (4 hours before exposure to pollutants).

[0229] At J5, 4 hours after application of the product, the expiants to be stressed were placed on the PolluBox® system with 900 pl per well of HBSS, and exposed by spraying, to a mixture of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons + heavy metals + fine particles for 1.5 hours.

[0230] The control expiations received no treatment except for the renewal of the culture medium.

[0231] At the end of exposure to pollutants, the expiants are collected, fixed, dehydrated and embedded in paraffin.

[0232] Sections 5 pm thick are made using a microtome.

[0233] HO-1 immunostaining was performed on deparaffinized and rehydrated sections with a monoclonal antibody (Novus, ref. NBP1-97507, clone 09011624) diluted in 0.3% PBS-BSA and incubated overnight at room temperature using a Vectastain Kit Vector avidin / biotin amplification system, and revealed by VIP, a substrate of peroxidase (Vector Laboratories, ref. SK-4600).

[0234] Immunostaining was performed manually and was evaluated by microscopic observation.

[0235] For each batch of explants, the percentage of the region of interest covered by the staining due to HO-1 immunostaining (percentage of stained surface) is determined by image analysis according to the method described by Bio-EC using the CellAD software.

[0236] Results

[0237] Table 10 below summarizes the significant effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica on the expression of HO-1 in expiants stressed by air pollutants

[0238] For statistical purposes, the values ​​of 0.001 <p<0,01 sont considérées comme très significatives (**), (test t de student par rapport au contrôle stressé aux polluants, non traité).

[0239] [TableauxlO] Non-stressed control, untreated Stressed with hair growth, untreated Stressed with hair growth + treated 3% extract Average % of surface marked 54.4 68.9 50.4** Standard deviation 10.7 11.2 4.8

[0240] Air pollutants induced oxidative stress, demonstrated by the significant activation of HO-1 expression of +27%.

[0241] The aqueous extract of Prunus domestica applied topically to human skin expiants significantly decreased the expression of HO-1 (-27%) induced by pollutants, demonstrating an antioxidant and protective effect against oxidative stress and pollution.

[0242] Example 10: Protection against hyperpigmentation due to oxidation and browning of melanin induced by exposome stress: atmospheric pollutants.

[0243] During the quantification of the HO-1 labeling presented in Example 9, a significant browning of the basal layer of pollutant-stressed expiants was noted, suggesting an overproduction and accumulation of melanin induced by air pollutants.

[0244] Fontana-Masson staining showing the distribution of melanin granules in the epidermis was performed on the expiants used and treated in Example 9. However, these did not demonstrate any change in the amount of melanin.

[0245] This browning of melanin therefore testifies to the oxidation of melanin, induced by oxidative stress caused by pollutants, and not to the activation of its synthesis, as observed during the photo-oxidation of melanin induced by UVA, known as the "Meirowski phenomenon".

[0246] This browning was quantified for the 3 conditions and per image (n=7 per condition) using ImageJ software with MaxEntropy mode and particle counting, considered the most optimal for isolating the appearance of melanin deposits.

[0247] Results

[0248] Table 11 below summarizes the significant effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica on the inhibition of oxidation and browning of melanin in expiants stressed by air pollutants.

[0249] For statistical purposes, the values ​​of 0.001 <p<0,01 sont considérées comme très significatives (**), (test t de student par rapport au contrôle stressé aux polluants, non traité).

[0250] [Tableauxll] Number of melanin deposition particles counted using ImageJ / image Control unstressed, untreated Stressed with hair growth, untreated Stressed with hair growth + treated 3% extract Mean number of particles 13.85 28.71 5.43** Standard deviation 1.78 5.60 1.925

[0251] Air pollutants induced significant oxidation and browning of melanin, making it much more visible and increasing by +107% the number of melanin deposit particles identified with ImageJ's MaxEntropy mode.

[0252] The aqueous extract of Prunus domestica applied topically to human skin expiants significantly reduced the number of particles (-81%) induced by pollutants, demonstrating a protective effect against the oxidation and browning of melanin induced by pollutants and responsible for the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots and loss of skin tone homogeneity.

[0253] Example 11: Clinical tests: restructuring, repairing and soothing effects on skin damaged by one of the exposome stressors: a skin irritant, Iss

[0254] The clinical study was carried out on the forearms of 23 healthy female volunteers aged on average 40+3 years, with dry skin (skin hydration level <50 AU, verified using the Corneometer®) and phototype II and III.

[0255] The analysis of the soothing effect was carried out with the TiVi700®.

[0256] The TiVi700® or Tissues Viability Imaging (Wheels Bridge) is a polarization spectroscopy imaging system that assesses cutaneous microcirculation and more specifically the quantification of erythema and irritation.

[0257] The TiVi700® measurements reflect the concentration of red blood cells at the skin level.

[0258] A large quantity of red blood cells indicates irritated skin, while a decrease in red blood cells demonstrates a soothing effect.

[0259] The analysis of the restructuring and repairing effects was carried out with the Tewameter TM 300®.

[0260] The Tewameter TM 300® allows measurement of transepidermal water loss or TEWL (TransEpidermal Water Loss).

[0261] An increase in TEWL indicates an altered skin barrier function, while its decrease demonstrates a restructuring and repairing effect.

[0262] Biometrological analyses of barrier function and cutaneous microcirculation

[0263] On Day 0, an area is defined on each forearm of each volunteer, an area on which will be applied the cream containing 3% of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica presented in example 2 and the other area, the placebo cream, not containing the extract.

[0264] At J0, baseline measurements are taken with the TiVi700® and the Tewameter before the application of the patch containing the LSS and the application of the placebo creams or with the extract.

[0265] On day 0, Hill-Top Chambers® patches containing 0.5% LSS are applied to the two previously defined areas in order to damage and irritate the skin.

[0266] On day 1, the patches are removed, i.e. 24 hours after their application.

[0267] On day 2, two days after removal of the 0.5% LSS patch, measurements were again taken using the TiVi700® and the Tewameter to confirm irritation and damage to the skin barrier. The values ​​obtained were defined as the reference measurements for the remainder of the study.

[0268] From day 2 to day 7, the volunteers applied the cream containing the extract once a day to one of the irritated areas and the placebo to the other area of ​​the other forearm.

[0269] Measurements with the TiVi700® and the Tewameter were carried out on J4, J7 or J8 and compared to the values ​​obtained on J2, i.e. 24h after removal of the patch.

[0270] Results: Restructuring and repairing effects

[0271] Table 12 below summarizes the effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica on the barrier function following alteration by LSS and measured using the Tewameter at J4 and J7 and reduced to a percentage of the TEWL measured at J2.

[0272] For statistics, p-values ​​< 0.05 are considered significant (Student's t-test compared to placebo).

[0273] [Tables 12] Placebo Day 4 Extract Day 4 Placebo Day 7 Extract Day 7 TEWL Evolution (% of Day 2) -25.1% -31.9% -46.8% -51.5% Standard deviation 2.3 3.5 2.3 2.5 p-value versus placebo p = 0.04 P = 0.02

[0274] From day 4 and after only 2 applications, the aqueous extract showed a significantly better skin barrier repair effect compared to placebo following its alteration by LSS.

[0275] At J7 and after 5 applications, the aqueous extract also showed a significantly better skin barrier repair effect compared to placebo.

[0276] On LSS-damaged skin, topical application of a cosmetic formulation containing 3% of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica demonstrated greater restructuring and repairing effects than the placebo formulation not containing the extract.

[0277] Results: soothing effect

[0278] Table 13 below summarizes the effects of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica on LSS-induced skin irritation, measured using the TiVi700® on days 4 and 8 and converted to a percentage of the microcirculation measured on day 2.

[0279] For statistics, values ​​of p<0.01 are considered highly significant, (Student's t-test compared to placebo).

[0280] [Tables 13] Placebo D4 Extract D4 Placebo D8 Extract D8 Evolution of microcirculation (% of D2) -2.1% -4.1% -6.6% -9.8% Standard deviation 1.8 1.9 2.5 2.2 p value versus pla acebo p = 0.079 P = 0.0066

[0281] From day 4 and after only 2 applications, the aqueous extract tends to reduce LSS-induced irritation more compared to placebo.

[0282] At J8, after 6 applications, the reduction in irritation induced by the extract is significantly greater compared to placebo.

[0283] On LSS-damaged skin, topical application of a cosmetic formulation containing 3% of the aqueous extract of Prunus domestica demonstrated a greater soothing effect than the placebo formulation not containing the extract.

Claims

Demands

1. Water-soluble extract of flowers of a plant from the Rosaceae family belonging to a species selected from the genus Prunus for its use in preventing the appearance of hyperpigmentation spots related to neurogenic inflammation induced by UV, skin irritants and air pollutants.

2. Extract according to claim 2, wherein the water-soluble extract is derived from a flower of a species selected from Prunus domestica, Prunus spinosa, Prunus sibirica, Prunus nigra, Prunus persica or Prunus armeniaca.

3. Extract according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water-soluble extract is characterized in that it has the following characteristics: - A dry matter content greater than 5g / L of liquid extract, preferably between 5 and 100 g / L of liquid extract, more preferably between 10 and 50 g / L of liquid extract. - Between 2 and 10g of total amino acids per 100g of dry extract, preferably between 3 and 8g of total amino acids per 100g of dry extract, - Between 0.5 and 5g of total polyphenols per 100g of dry extract, preferably between 1 and 3g per 100g of dry extract.

4. Extract according to claim 3, characterized in that the amino acids include in majority at least one amino acid selected from glutamic acid, cysteine, aspartic acid, proline, glycine or a mixture thereof, in particular glutamic acid.

5. Extract according to any one of claims 3 or 4, characterized in that the polyphenols include at least one phenolic acid and / or at least one flavonoid.

6. Extract according to any one of claims 3 to 5, characterized in that the polyphenols include at least one phenolic acid selected from neochlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid glycerol, chlorogenic acid, cryptochlorogenic acid, hydroxybenzoic acid glycerol, caffeoyl glycerol or a mixture thereof.

7. Extract according to any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that the polyphenols include at least one flavonoid selected from kaempferol di-rhamnoside, kaempferol-O-pentoside-O- rhamnoside, quercetin-O-rhamnoside-O-hexoside, kaempferol di-pentoside, quercetin-O-pentoside, quercetin-O-rhamnoside, kaempferol-O-hexoside-O-rhamnoside, kaempferol-O-pentoside, kaempferol-O-rhamnoside or a mixture thereof.

8. Extract according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said extract is found in a composition at a concentration of between 0.0005% by weight and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

9. Extract according to claim 8, characterized in that said composition is in a form suitable for topical application.

10. Extract according to any one of claims 8 to 9, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one other compound such as an active agent, a moisturizing compound, a preservative.