COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND ITS USAGE

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN CARE The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: (i) at least one acetylneuraminic acid; and (ii) at least one extract of Cordyceps militaris ferment. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition and a non-therapeutic method for the care of keratinous materials. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN CARE technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. The present invention also relates to the use of the cosmetic composition and a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Human skin consists of three compartments, namely a superficial compartment, which is the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, which is the hypodermis.

[0003] The dermis is primarily composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix (ECM). This extracellular matrix consists of various macromolecules responsible for the skin's mechanical resistance, suppleness, tone, and elasticity, as well as physiologically important functions (hydration, thermoregulation, and regulation of skin permeability). These macromolecules include, in particular, collagens, elastin, and glycoconjugates (glycoproteins and proteoglycans).

[0004] Collagens represent 70% of the proteins in the ECM. Naturally, collagens are constantly renewed, but this renewal decreases with age, leading to thinning of the dermis. Collagen loss results in wrinkles and a lack of firmness.

[0005] It is also known that prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, in particular to type A and B radiation, has the effect of stimulating the expression of collagenases, in particular MMP-1 (also called matrix metalloproteinase 1 or interstitial collagenase), constituting one of the components of photo-induced or non-photo-induced skin aging.

[0006] A wide variety of cosmetic products have been used to care for the skin, for example, to resist skin aging. However, some products are not sufficiently effective.

[0007] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a skincare composition that can effectively resist skin aging. Summary of the invention

[0008] An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a skin care composition which can effectively resist skin aging.

[0009] Another object of the present invention is to propose a cosmetic process of skin care.

[0010] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate skin care compositions that can effectively resist skin aging.

[0011] Consequently, in a first aspect, the present invention proposes a cosmetic composition comprising:

[0012] (i) at least one acetylneuraminic acid; and

[0013] (ii) at least one extract of cordyceps militaris ferment.

[0014] The inventors have discovered that the composition of the present invention can improve the content of collagen I and inhibit the production of MMP-1, and effectively resist skin aging.

[0015] In a second aspect, the present invention proposes the use of the composition of the present invention for the anti-aging of keratinous materials.

[0016] In a third aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0017] Other subjects, features, aspects, and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0018] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention. Where the definition of a term in the present invention conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art in the field covered by the present invention, the definition described in the present invention shall apply.

[0019] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0020] Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0021] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0022] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity The use of the term "approximately" in the description and claims should be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Therefore, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate and may be changed depending on the intended purpose, if applicable.

[0023] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratinous materials" is intended to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is considered in particular according to the present invention.

[0024] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0025] According to the first aspect, a composition of the present invention comprises: i. at least one acetylneuraminic acid; and i. at least one extract of cordyceps militaris ferment. Acetylneuraminic acid

[0026] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one acetylneuraminic acid.

[0027] Preferably, acetylneuraminic acid is selected from N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4,9-di-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,9-di-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8,9-di-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,8,9-tri-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-OL-lactyl-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetyl-9-O-lactyl-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acety 1-8-O-methyl 1-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-sulfon-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-phosphoro-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-neuraminic acid 5-N-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-9-O-lactyl-neuraminic acid,5-N-acetyl-2,7-anhydro-neuraminic acid, 4-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,9-Di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8,9-Di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,8,9-Tri-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-9-O-lactyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 7,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-sulfon-neuraminic acid, N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-9-O-lactyl-neuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 2,7-anhydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 2,7-anhydro-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, and their combinations.

[0028] More preferably, acetylneuraminic acid is selected from N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4,9-di-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,9-di-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8,9-di-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,8,9-tri-O-acetylneuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-1,8-O-methyl-1-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 4-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,9-Di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8,9-Di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,8,9-Tri-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid,9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methylneuraminic acid, 7,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methylneuraminic acid, N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, and their combinations.

[0029] Even more preferably, acetylneuraminic acid is chosen from N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid and their combinations.

[0030] In some preferred embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA).

[0031] Advantageously, acetylneuraminic acid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.001% by weight to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.005% by weight to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cordyceps militaris ferment extract

[0032] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one extract of cordyceps militaris ferment.

[0033] Preferably, the cordyceps militaris ferment extract is a lactococcus ferment extract based on cordyceps militaris.

[0034] Cordyceps militaris is the type species of Ascomycota, Hypocreas, Ergotaceae, and Cordyceps. Cordyceps militaris grown from a live pupa is generally called cordyceps militaris. The main active ingredients of cordyceps militaris are cordycepin, cordycepic acid, and cordyceps polysaccharide. Cordycepin is also known as 3-deoxyadenosine.

[0035] A fermentation extract of cordyceps militaris can be obtained as follows: lactobacilli are fermented and cultured in a fermentation medium using cordyceps militaris as a nitrogen source.

[0036] In particular, cordyceps militaris is the only source of nitrogen.

[0037] For more details on the production of cordyceps militaris ferment extract, see CN111808901A.

[0038] As an example of commercial products of cordyceps militaris ferment extract, one can cite that sold under the name BIOYOUTH TM-CM® by the company BLOOMAGE BIOTECHNOLOGY.

[0039] Advantageously, the cordyceps militaris ferment extract is present in the composition of the present invention in a quantity of dry matter ranging from 0.001% by weight to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.005% by weight to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% by weight to 0.3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Advantageously, the weight ratio between at least one acetylneuraminic acid and at least one extract of cordyceps militaris ferment ranges from 1:10 to 2:1, preferably from 1:5 to 1:1. C-Glycoside Compound

[0041] Advantageously, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside compound.

[0042] Preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from compounds of formula (I): XR (I) S--7

[0043] in which: R represents a Cl-saturated alkyl radical, particularly a C4 Cl-saturated radical, which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a C1-C4 saturated alkyl radical, S represents a monosaccharide or polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and X represents a radical chosen from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-,

[0044] the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be a or [3,

[0045] as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as the hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

[0046] The C-glycosides used for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R designates a linear alkyl radical saturated in C6 Ci, in particular in C4 Ci, preferably in C2 Ci and more preferably, a methyl radical.

[0047] In particular, suitable alkyl groups for implementing the invention include methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl.

[0048] According to one embodiment of the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used, for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar motifs, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide having at least one necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and / or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all the above definitions.

[0049] Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously designates D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.

[0050] More particularly, a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar motifs can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a di- saccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which may advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-[3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose, and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.

[0051] More particularly, S can represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.

[0052] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) is used, for which: • R denotes an unsubstituted linear alkyl radical in Ci-C4, in particular in C rC2, notably a methyl radical; • S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; • X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2) and, preferably, a -CH(OH)- group.

[0053] Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Examples include salts of inorganic acids such as sulfuric acid and hydrochloric acid. Examples also include salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. In particular, examples include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.

[0054] When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2, or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine, for example, triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary, or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; examples include 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol, or 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Lysine or 3-(dimethylamino)propylamine may also be mentioned.

[0055] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0056] Of course, according to the invention, a C-glycoside corresponding to formula (I) can be used alone or in mixture with other C-glycosides and in any proportion.

[0057] A C-glycoside which is suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis process described in document WO 02 / 051828.

[0058] By way of non-limiting illustration of C-glycoside compounds that are particularly suitable for the invention, the following compounds may be cited in particular:

[0059] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0060] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0061] - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0062] - C-a- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0063] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0064] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0065] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0066] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one,

[0067] - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0068] - l-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0069] - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0070] - l-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0071] - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0072] - l-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0073] - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0074] - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane,

[0075] - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0076] - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0077] - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0078] - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one,

[0079] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0080] - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,

[0081] - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,

[0082] - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and mixtures thereof.

[0083] According to one embodiment, C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or CaD-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and even better C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

[0084] According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside may be C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) supplied in the form of a solution containing 35% by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.

[0085] If present, advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] If present, advantageously, the ratio between the total weight of at least one acetylneuraminic acid and at least one extract of cordyceps militaris ferment and the weight of the C-glycoside ranges from 1:3 to 1:40, preferably from 1:10 to 1:35. Aqueous phase

[0087] The composition of the present invention may include an aqueous phase.

[0088] Said aqueous phase comprises water.

[0089] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises water.

[0090] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 30% by weight to 98% by weight, preferably from 40% by weight to 90% by weight, more preferably from 50% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises an organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature 25 °C) selected from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; and mixtures thereof, so as to provide a hydrating effect.

[0092] If present, advantageously, the water-miscible organic solvent chosen from monoalcohols, glycols and polyols is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention comprises water and glycerin. Oily phase

[0094] The composition of the present invention may include an oily phase.

[0095] The oily phase contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0096] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one oil.

[0097] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water and is liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0098] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0099] The expression "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0100] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0101] The oily phase may include hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0102] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0103] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group.

[0104] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0105] The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0106] If present, advantageously, the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Additional cosmetic active ingredients

[0107] The composition of the present invention may include an additional cosmetic active ingredient in addition to the cosmetic active ingredients as defined above.

[0108] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol) and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; brightening agents; firming agents; exfoliating agents; moisturizing agents (HA); repairing and soothing agents; other anti-aging agents; agents acting on microcirculation; sebum regulating agents; anti-acne agents; UV filters; pigmentation-affecting agents and mixtures thereof.

[0109] It is easy for a person skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of the additional cosmetic active ingredient according to the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0110] The composition of the present invention may include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents, preservatives, surfactants, thickeners, pH regulators and their mixtures.

[0111] A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0112] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0113] (i) from 0.01% by weight to 0.3% by weight of at least one acetylneuraminic acid chosen from N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid and their combinations; and

[0114] (ii) from 0.01% by weight to 0.3% by weight of a lactococcus ferment extract based on cordyceps militaris. pharmaceutical form and process

[0115] The composition of the present invention is in the form of an emulsion, a cream, a lotion, a mask or a hydrogel.

[0116] The composition of the present invention can be used for the care of keratinous materials.

[0117] According to the second aspect, the present invention proposes the use of the composition of the present invention for the anti-aging of keratinous materials.

[0118] In particular, the present invention proposes the use of the composition of the present invention to stimulate the production of collagen and / or inhibit the production of MMP-1.

[0119] According to the third aspect, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for the treatment of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention to the keratinous materials.

[0120] In certain embodiments, the present invention proposes a non-therapeutic method for anti-aging keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the first aspect of the present invention on keratinous materials.

[0121] Keratinous materials include, in particular, the skin. EXAMPLES

[0122] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0123] The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0124] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier HYDROXYPROPYL TE- TRAHYDROPYRANTRIO L MEXORYL® SDL NOVEAL ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID SIALIC ACID WUHAN ZHONGKE OPTICS VALLEY GREEN LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT BIOYOUTH™-CM BLOOMAGE BIO-TECHNOLOGY Example 1

[0125] The compositions of the inventive formula 1 and the comparative formulas 1-A and 1-B were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] [Tables2] Active ingredient Inventive formula 1 Comparative formula 1-A Comparative formula 1-B % by weight % by weight % by weight ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID 0.01 0.01 / LAKE TOCOCCUS FERMENT 0.01 / 0.01 Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

[0127] The composition of the formula of the invention 1 represents the composition according to the present invention.

[0128] The composition of comparative formula 1-A does not include LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT.

[0129] The composition of comparative formula 1-B does not include ACE-TYLNEURAMINIC ACID.

[0130] Preparation process:

[0131] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: dilution of each raw material in double-distilled sterilized H2O at room temperature and dissolution in water with stirring. Assessment

[0132] The ELIS A assay of type I collagen was performed as follows.

[0133] Normal human fibroblast cells were seeded in 6-well plates at a cell density of 2 × 10⁵ cells / well under 5% CO₂, 95% humidity, and 37°C in a cell culture incubator (Thermo 1501) for overnight culture. When the cell density reached a confluence of 40–60%, the cell culture medium was replaced with fresh medium containing test raw materials at different concentrations or combinations. The treated cells were placed in a cell culture incubator at 5% CO₂, 95% humidity, and 37°C for 24 hours.

[0134] Each test group consisted of three replicated cells. Cell culture supernatants were collected for the ELISA assay of type I collagen (Cusabio). The untreated group was used as the blank control (BC), and the group treated with TGF-

[31] (Peprotech) at 100 ng / ml was used as the positive control (PC). The three other groups were treated with fresh medium containing compositions of formula 1 of the invention, comparative formulas 1-A and 1-B, respectively. The ELISA assay procedure was performed in full accordance with the standard protocol illustrated in the test kit.

[0135] The relative improvement in collagen I content for each group was calculated according to the following formulas and the results were summarized in Table 3.

[0136] Quantity of collagen I (mg / ml) from the Test Group

[0137] Relative % content of collagen I in the Test Group = X 100%

[0138] Quantity of Collagen I (mg / ml) of the Blank Group

[0139] Relative improvement in % collagen I content = relative % collagen I content - 100%

[0140] [Tables3] Properties Blank control Positive control Inventive formula 1 Comparative formula 1-A Comparative formula 1-B Relative improvement in collagen I content (%) 0 35.30 58.53 15.45 11.59

[0141] It can be seen in Table 3 that the composition of the formula of the invention 1 can significantly improve the collagen I content, compared to the compositions of the comparative formulas 1-A and 1-B.

[0142] The relative improvement in the collagen I content of the formula of the invention 1 is greater than the sum of that of the compositions of the comparative formulas 1-A and 1-B. Thus, it is demonstrated that the association of LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT and ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID improves the content of collagen I. Example 2

[0143] The compositions of the inventive formula 2 and the comparative formulas 2-A and 2-B were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 4 following the protocol as described in Example 1. The quantities are given as % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] [Tables4] Active ingredient Formula of the invention 2 Comparative formula 2-A Comparative formula 2-B % by weight % by weight % by weight ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID 0.05 0.05 / LAKE TOCOCCUS FERMENT 0.05 / 0.05 Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

[0145] The composition of the formula of the invention 2 represents the composition according to the present invention.

[0146] The composition of comparative formula 2-A does not include LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT.

[0147] The composition of comparative formula 2-B does not include ACE-TYLNEURAMINIC ACID.

[0148] The ELISA assay of type I collagen was performed in accordance with the protocol described in Example 1, the relative improvement in collagen I content for each group was calculated and the results were summarized in Table 5.

[0149] [Tables5] Properties Blank control Positive control Formula of the invention 2 Comparative formula 2-A Comparative formula 2-B Relative improvement in collagen I content (%) 0 35.30 65.05 35.57 24.42

[0150] It can be seen in Table 5 that the composition of the inventive formula 2 can significantly improve the collagen I content, compared to the compositions of the comparative formulas 2-A and 2-B.

[0151] The relative improvement in the collagen I content of the inventive formula 2 is greater than the sum of that of the compositions of the comparative formulas 2-A and 2-B. Thus, it is demonstrated that the combination of LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT and ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID improves the collagen I content. Example 3

[0152] The compositions of the inventive formula 3 and the comparative formulas 3-A and 3-B were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 6 following the protocol as described in Example 1. The quantities are given as % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] [Tableauxô] Active ingredient Inventive formula 3 Comparative formula 3-A Comparative formula 3-B % by weight % by weight % by weight ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID 0.15 0.15 / LAKE TOCOCCUS FERMENT 0.05 / 0.05 Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

[0154] The composition of the formula of the invention 3 represents the composition according to the present invention.

[0155] The composition of comparative formula 3-A does not include LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT.

[0156] The composition of comparative formula 3-B does not include ACE-TYLNEURAMINIC ACID.

[0157] The ELIS A assay of type I collagen was performed in accordance with the protocol As described in Example 1, the relative improvement in collagen I content for each group was calculated and the results were summarized in Table 7.

[0158] [Tables7] Properties Blank control Positive control Inventive formula 3 Comparative formula 3-A Comparative formula 3-B Relative improvement in collagen I content (%) 0 35.30 264.67 194.10 36.74

[0159] It can be seen in Table 7 that the composition of the formula of the invention 3 can significantly improve the collagen I content, compared to the compositions of the comparative formulas 3-A and 3-B.

[0160] The relative improvement in the collagen I content of the formula of the invention 3 is greater than the sum of that of the compositions of the comparative formulas 3-A and 3-B. Thus, it is demonstrated that the combination of LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT and ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID improves the collagen I content. Example 4

[0161] The compositions of the inventive formula 4 and the comparative formulas 4-A and 4-B were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 8 following the protocol as described in Example 1. The quantities are given as % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] [Tables8] Active ingredient Inventive formula 4 Comparative formula 4-A Comparative formula 4-B % by weight % by weight % by weight ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID 0.01 / 0.01 LAKE TOCOCCUS FERMENT 0.01 0.01 / HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL 0.44 0.44 / PROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.31 0.31 / Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

[0163] The composition of the formula of the invention 4 represents the composition according to the present invention.

[0164] The composition of comparative formula 4-A does not include ACE-TYLNEURAMINIC ACID.

[0165] The composition of comparative formula 4-B does not include LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT.

[0166] The ELIS A assay of type I collagen was performed according to the protocol described in Example 1, the relative improvement in collagen I content for each group was calculated and the results were summarized in Table 9.

[0167] [Tables9] Properties Blank control Positive control Inventive formula 4 Comparative formula 4-A Comparative formula 4-B Relative improvement in collagen I content (%) 0 35.30 70.12 47.91 15.45

[0168] It can be seen in Table 9 that the composition of the formula of the invention 3 can significantly improve the collagen I content, compared to the compositions of the comparative formulas 4-A and 4-B.

[0169] The relative improvement in the collagen I content of the formula of the invention 4 is greater than the sum of that of the compositions of the comparative formulas 4-A and 4-B. Thus, it is demonstrated that the association of LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT and ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID improves the content of collagen I.

[0170] It can also be seen from a comparison of the formula of invention 1 and the formula of invention 4 that the presence of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol can significantly improve the collagen I content. Example 5

[0171] The compositions of the inventive formula 5 and the comparative formulas 5-A and 5-B were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 10 following the protocol as described in Example 1. The quantities are given as % by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0172] [TableauxlO] Active ingredient Inventive formula 5 Comparative formula 5-A Comparative formula 5-B % by weight % by weight % by weight ACETYLNEURAMINIC ACID 0.10 0.10 / LAKE TOCOCCUS FERMENT 0.10 / 0.10 Water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

[0173] The composition of the formula of the invention 5 represents the composition according to the present invention.

[0174] The composition of comparative formula 5-A does not include LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT.

[0175] The composition of comparative formula 5-B does not include ACE-TYLNEURAMINIC ACID. Assessment

[0176] The ELISA assay of MMP-1 was performed as follows.

[0177] Cell seeding: Human skin fibroblasts were grown to 80% confluence, digested, and suspended, and the cell density was adjusted to 30,000 cells / well using complete medium (DMEM with 10% SFV, Gibco, Lot: 2275120). The cells were inoculated onto a 24-well plate and incubated in a cell incubator (5% CO2, 95% humidity, 37°C) for 24 hours.

[0178] Subject exposure: The original medium was removed and replaced with DMEM containing 1% FBS or DMEM with 1% FBS containing different concentrations of samples, incubated in the incubator for 24 hours. The treated group The group receiving 0.1 µm of dexamethasone (DT) was taken as the positive control group (PC). The group not treated with any composition was considered the untreated group (UT). The three other groups were treated with fresh medium containing compositions of inventive formula 5, comparative formulas 5-A and 5-B, respectively.

[0179] UVA Modeling: Before UVA irradiation, discard the medium and add 200 pL / well of PBS. For plates requiring UVA irradiation, place them under an ultraviolet lamp, adjust the UVA irradiation intensity to 2.5 mW / cm², and irradiate at 6 J / cm² UVA (~40 min). For the control plate without UVA (blank control), place the plate on the area without UVA irradiation. After irradiation, the PBS was removed and replaced with DMEM containing 1% FBS or DMEM with 1% FBS containing different concentrations of raw materials. The plates were placed in the incubator for 48 hours. After incubation, the supernatant was collected in sterile Eppendorf tubes, centrifuged at 12,000 rpm for 5 min at low temperature, and stored at -80 °C.

[0180] The ELISA procedure fully followed the kit instructions (R&D, #DY901B, Lot: P288649).

[0181] The relative inhibition of MMP-1 content for each group was calculated according to the following formula and the results were summarized in Table 11.

[0182] Quantity of MMPL(mg / ml) of test group / UVA

[0183] Relative % content of MMPI of the test group / uvA = X 100%

[0184] Quantity MMPI (mg / ml) of NT / uva

[0185] Relative inhibition of the % MMPI content of the deSSai / uvA group = 100% - relative % MMPI content of the ^pe / uvA

[0186] [Tableauxll] Properties Blank control Positive control Inventive formula 5 Comparative formula 5-A Comparative formula 5-B Relative inhibition of MMP-1 content (%) 0 53.83 59.33 17.23 39.00

[0187] It can be seen in Table 11 that the composition of the formula of the invention 5 can significantly inhibit the content of MMP-1, compared to the compositions of the comparative formulas 5-A and 5-B.

[0188] The relative improvement in the collagen I content of the inventive formula 5 is greater than the sum of that of the compositions of the comparative formulas 5-A and 5-B. Thus, it is demonstrated that the combination of LACTOCOCCUS FERMENT and Acetylneuramine acid inhibits MMP-1 levels.

[0189] In summary, the composition according to the present invention can improve the collagen I content and inhibit the production of MMP-1, therefore can effectively resist skin aging.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (i) at least one acetylneuraminic acid; and (ii) at least one extract of cordyceps militaris ferment.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the acetylneuraminic acid is selected from N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8,9-di-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-7,8,9-tri-O-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-OL-lactyl-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-4-O-acetyl-9-O-lactyl-acetyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-8-O-sulpho-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-phosphoro-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-9-O-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-neuraminic acid, acid 5-N-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-9-O-lactyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-acetyl-2,7-anhydro-neuraminic acid, 4-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,9-Di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 8,9-Di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 7,8,9-Tri-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-9-O-lactyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-Acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 7,9-di-O-acetyl-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 5-N-glycolyl-8-O-sulpho-neuraminic acid, N-, (O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N-(O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 9-O-acetyl-2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-9-O-lactyl-neuraminic acid, 2-deoxy-2,3-didehydro-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, 2,7-anhydro-5-N-glycolyl-neuraminic acid, 2,7-anhydro-5-N-glycolyl-8-O-methyl-neuraminic acid, and combinations thereof.

3. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the cordyceps militaris ferment extract is a cordyceps militaris-based lactococcus ferment extract.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the weight ratio between the at least one acetylneuraminic acid and the at least one extract of cordyceps militaris ferment ranges from 1:10 to 2:1, preferably from 1:5 to 1:

1.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising a C-glycoside.

6. Composition according to claim 5, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I): XR (I) s-—7 in which: - R represents a saturated C1-C10, in particular C1-C4 alkyl radical which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR"2, R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in the form of pyranose and / or furanose and of the L and / or D series, said monosaccharide or polysaccharide being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional groups, and - X represents a radical selected from the groups -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, -CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a radical -CO-,-CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and more particularly a radical -CH(OH)-, the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric bond, which can be a or [3, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates and their optical and geometric isomers.

7. A composition according to claim 6, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, - CaD-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - Ca-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaL-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(CaD-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane, - l-(C-[3-D-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaD-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(C-[3-L-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - l-(CaL-fucofuranosyl)propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, - CaD-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, - C-[3-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, - CaD-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 0.01% by weight to 0.3% by weight of at least one acetylneuraminic acid chosen from N-glycolylneuraminic acid (NGNA), N-acetylneuraminic acid (NANA), N-(O-acetyl)glycolylneuraminic acid, N- (O-methyl)glycolylneuraminic acid and combinations thereof; and (ii) from 0.01% by weight to 0.3% by weight of a lac-tococcus ferment extract based on cordyceps militaris.

9. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for the anti-aging of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin.

10. Non-therapeutic method for caring for keratinous materials, comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratinous materials, in particular the skin.