Composition comprising at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid, a water-soluble organic UV filter and additional UV filters

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of ascorbic acid, at least one water-soluble organic UV filter preferably selected from benzimidazole derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical, and at least one additional UV filter, as well as the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care and treatment of keratinous materials, and especially for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for hair care.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid, a water-soluble organic UV filter and additional UV filters

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least 1% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of ascorbic acid, at least one water-soluble organic UV filter preferably chosen from benzimidazole derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical, and at least one additional UV filter, as well as the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, treatment of keratin materials, and in particular for the care, protection and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, or for the care of the hair. Technical field

[0002] It is known that light radiation with wavelengths between 280 nm and 400 nm allows the browning of the human epidermis. Rays with wavelengths more particularly between 280 and 320 nm, known as UV-B, cause erythema and skin burns which can harm the development of natural tanning.

[0003] For these reasons, as well as for aesthetic reasons, there is a constant demand for means of controlling this natural tanning in order to thus control the color of the skin: it is therefore appropriate to filter UV-B radiation. It is also known that UV-A rays, with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm, which cause the skin to brown, are likely to induce an alteration of the skin, in particular in the case of sensitive skin or skin continuously exposed to solar radiation. UV-A rays cause in particular a loss of elasticity of the skin and the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature skin aging.

[0004] Thus, for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons, such as preserving the natural elasticity of the skin, for example, more and more people want to control the effect of UV-A rays on their skin. It is therefore desirable to also filter UV-A radiation.

[0005] In order to ensure protection of the skin and keratin materials against UV radiation, photo-protective compositions are generally used, comprising organic filters, active in UV-A and active in UV-B.

[0006] Numerous cosmetic compositions intended for photoprotection of the skin have been proposed to date. These compositions generally contain, in an emulsified liquid carrier (preferably an oil-in-water emulsion), one or more organic molecules, capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation, soluble in the oily and / or aqueous phase. The use of mineral metal oxide pigments such as titanium dioxide in such sunscreen compositions is becoming increasingly common because these particles, invisible to the naked eye due to their small size, make it possible to increase the protection index of the compositions containing them.

[0007] It is also known that high filter rates are necessary to achieve high levels of filtering efficiency.

[0008] However, high levels of UV filters do not lend themselves to easy development of compositions with a stabilized and pleasant texture.

[0009] Thus, formulations with high filtering power generally have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulas. In particular, the weak point of photoprotective formulations with a high protection index is often a significant feeling of greasyness and stickiness, and therefore a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application and therefore not invisible on the skin.

[0010] Furthermore, the introduction of high-content UV filters generally causes destabilization problems. This instability can sometimes even cause a phase shift of the emulsion and / or a loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation ineffective or even unusable.

[0011] One of the major drawbacks of these photo-protective emulsions containing organic filters and / or mineral filters lies in the difficulty of reconciling good stability of the product, ease of application of the product, effective sun protection, and a fresh, non-sticky feel.

[0012] In addition, the daily photoprotection market is expanding. More and more hybrid products providing skin care and protection with SPF 15-20 are being launched, but the challenge remains to have higher SPF values, for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to 50, with a pleasant sensoriality for daily application. The world of skincare remains very different from the field of photoprotection in terms of consumer experience, which increases the complexity of formula development.

[0013] We are therefore looking to have skincare products with high sun protection while maintaining the sensory codes of skincare: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory.

[0014] In cosmetic applications, it is common to add ascorbic acid (vitamin C) as an active ingredient for regenerating the skin by stimulating the synthesis of collagen responsible for skin firmness, or as a depigmenting agent, because This vitamin reduces the production of melanin, which causes dark spots. Ascorbic acid is also known for its antioxidant properties.

[0015] However, when ascorbic acid is introduced into an aqueous medium (such as emulsions or serums) at high levels (i.e., for example, greater than 1% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight), its formulation is difficult to achieve, because it destabilizes and changes color drastically.

[0016] This is why we find on the market aqueous compositions of the serum or solution type, which include ascorbic acid in the form of powder to be solubilized extemporaneously. The disadvantage of this type of product is that vitamin C ends up degrading in the aqueous medium. These products are thus losing their appeal because consumers prefer, for reasons of practicality, serums without prior manipulation, with the guarantee of color stability and without chemical degradation.

[0017] Furthermore, the introduction of high-level vitamin C into a cosmetic composition can lead to destabilization of the formula, for example when it is in the form of an emulsion, a phase shift with release of the oily phase can be observed.

[0018] Thus, there is a need for a cosmetic composition comprising UV filters and ascorbic acid which is stable, i.e. which remains the same color as originally (generally white) and of the same texture, and which does not degrade the active ingredient, while having high photoprotective properties.

[0019] Human skin is made up of three compartments, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, the hypodermis.

[0020] The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells which are keratinocytes, which are the vast majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes through its own functions to the essential role played by the skin.

[0021] The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It is mainly made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix itself composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance called ground substance, components synthesized by the fibroblast.

[0022] Collagen fibers are what provide the strength of the dermis. Collagen fibers are made up of fibrils sealed together, forming more than ten different types of structures. The strength of the dermis is largely due to the interlocking of collagen fibers packed against each other in all directions. Collagen fibers contribute to the elasticity and tone of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0023] Collagen fibers are constantly renewed but this renewal decreases with age, which leads to thinning of the dermis. It is also accepted that extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet rays also have an effect on the skin and its collagen levels.

[0024] Various factors lead to the degradation of collagen, with all the consequences that can be envisaged on the structure and / or firmness of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

[0025] Although very strong, collagen fibers are sensitive to certain enzymes called collagenases. A breakdown of collagen fibers results in the appearance of soft, wrinkled skin that humans, preferring the appearance of smooth, taut skin, have always sought to combat.

[0026] We then understand the importance of collagen in the structure of tissues, particularly of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and the importance of combating its degradation in order to combat aging, whether chronobiological or photo-induced, and its consequences, in particular on the thinning of the dermis and / or the degradation of collagen fibers, this latter consequence leading in particular to the appearance of soft skin, against which the object of the present invention is precisely to combat.

[0027] Collagenases are part of a family of enzymes called metalloproteinases (MMPs) which are themselves members of a family of proteolytic enzymes (endoproteases or endopeptidases) which have a zinc atom coordinated to 3 cysteine ​​residues and a methionine in their active site and which degrade the macromolecular components of the extracellular matrix and basement membranes at neutral pH (collagen, elastin, etc.). Very widespread in the living world, these enzymes are present, but weakly expressed, in normal physiological situations such as organ growth and tissue renewal.

[0028] Their overexpression in humans and their activation is linked to numerous processes, which involve the destruction and remodeling of the matrix. This leads either to an uncontrolled resorption of the extracellular matrix, or conversely to the installation of a state of fibrosis.

[0029] Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, particularly type A and / or B ultraviolet radiation, has the effect of stimulating the expression of collagenases, particularly MMP-3. This is one of the components of photo-induced skin aging.

[0030] The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the combination of a filtering system containing one or more water-soluble UV filters, preferably benzimidazole derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical, with a high vitamin C content, makes it possible to reduce the signs of aging, in particular those linked to the degradation of collagen, in particular by stimulating the expression of collagenases such as MMP-3.

[0031] This discovery is the basis of the present invention. Statement of the invention

[0032] The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: a) at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition; (b) at least one water-soluble organic UV filter; and c) at least one additional UV filter different from the water-soluble UV filters b).

[0033] Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the use, in a photoprotective composition, of at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid and of a filtering system comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter, preferably chosen from bis-benzoazolyl derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives and their mixtures, makes it possible to limit the degradation of collagen, and thus to preserve the properties of the skin such as its firmness, its density, its elasticity.

[0034] In addition, this composition is easy to spread, has high photo-protective power and is nevertheless stabilized over time, also having good cosmetic properties such as a refreshing power and a non-greasy and non-sticky texture.

[0035] The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or the face.

[0036] The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and / or face, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0037] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and / or improving the color and / or uniformity of the complexion comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0038] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0039] The composition in accordance with the invention has good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and / or microscopically, after storage for 24 hours, one week, one month, or two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4 °C, at 45 °C, or at 55 °C. A stable composition generally retains its pleasantness and sensory signature upon application over time. More precisely, the stability of a composition can be assessed qualitatively, for example by the absence of phase shifting or the appearance of crystals, or quantitatively by monitoring the evolution of parameters such as viscosity or pH.

[0040] By "stable over time" according to the present invention is meant a composition which after 1 month, preferably after 2 months, of storage at a temperature ranging from 4 to 45°C shows only few macroscopic changes such as changes in color, odor, viscosity, pH, as well as small variations in microscopic appearance.

[0041] In the context of the invention, the filtering efficiency is evaluated from the evaluation of the SPF and the UVAPF.

[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB rays. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time required to obtain sunburn with a photoprotective composition and that without the product. More specifically, the term "SPF" is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0043] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) assessment can be carried out in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the photoprotective composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. A particular protocol, presented as an example, is currently undergoing ISO approval under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0044] The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO 24444: 2019 protocol “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF)”.

[0045] For the purposes of the present invention, UVAPF means the index characterizing protection against UVA. In particular, this index can be measured in vivo according to the “PPD” (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method, ISO-24442: 2022 protocol, by the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA. The evaluation of protection against UVA can also be measured in vitro using a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the sunscreen composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates have proven ideal. The ISO 24443: 2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.

[0046] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading from the detailed description that follows.

[0047] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term “physiologically acceptable medium” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0048] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is understood to mean in particular the skin, the scalp, the keratin fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, and the body hairs, the nails, the mucous membranes such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and the mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0049] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values ​​are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

[0050] Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal”.

[0051] By "prevent" or "prevention", according to the invention, is meant the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratin material.

[0052] By “organic UVA filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also additionally absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0053] By “organic UVB filter” is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

[0055] By "emulsion" is meant any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two phases which are immiscible with each other; one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

[0056] A distinction is made between so-called "direct" oil-in-water emulsions consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase and water-in-oil emulsions called inverse emulsions consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase and a discontinuous aqueous dispersed phase. There are also multiple emulsions such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil- in-water-in-oil. Detailed description of the invention Ascorbic acid

[0057] Ascorbic acid within the meaning of the invention preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has the structure of formula (I):

[0058] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 7% by weight.

[0059] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 30% by weight of ascorbic acid, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble organic UV filter

[0060] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one water-soluble organic UV filter.

[0061] By "water-soluble organic filter" is meant any organic filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase, or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0062] Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters that can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Mention may in particular be made of benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® SX” by the company NOVEAL,

[0063] These filters correspond to the following general formula (I): O

[0064]

[0065]

[0066] in which, F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(Ri)3+ in which the radicals which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical, or a group Mn+, Mn+ denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+ preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca2+, Zn2+, Mg2+, Ba2+, Al3+ and Zr4+. It is understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the "cis-trans" isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all the isomers fall within the scope of the present invention. Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters which can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups with sulfonic groups such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323. They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in US patent 2,463,264 as well as in patent application EP-A-0669323. The compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to the following general formula (II): in which: - Z represents an organic residue of valence (1 + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed in such a way that it completes the double bond system of at least two benzoazolyl groups as defined inside the brackets to form a fully conjugated set; - X' denotes S, O or NR6; - R1 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C[8] alkyl, a C1 to C4 alkoxy, a C5 to C15 aryl, a C2 to C[8] acyloxy, a SO3Y or COOY group; - the radicals R2, R3, R4 and R5, identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R1; - R6 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C4 alkyl or a C1 to C4 hydroxyalkyl; - Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH4, l / 2Ca, l / 2Mg, 1 / 3A1 or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group by an organic nitrogenous base; - m is 0 or 1; - n is a number from 2 to 6; -1 is a number from 1 to 4; - provided that 1 + n does not exceed the value 6.

[0067] Among these compounds, the acid l,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylen-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate) or one of its salts of the following structure (III) sold in particular under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® AP” by the company Symrise:

[0068] Preferably, the water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA is benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that manufactured under the name "MEXORYL SX" by NOVEAL.

[0069] The water-soluble organic UVB filters that can be used according to the present invention are in particular chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters include phenyl benzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232®” by MERCK.

[0071] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.

[0072] When the water-soluble UV filter is of the sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

[0073] By "alkanolamine" is meant a C2-Ci0 compound comprising at least one amine function, primary, secondary or tertiary, and at least one alcohol function, generally primary. As suitable alkanolamine, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: TROMETHAMINE) and triethanolamine.

[0074] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble organic UV filter, which is chosen from bis-benzoazolyl derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0075] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one water-soluble UV filter chosen from benzimidazole derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical.

[0076] Preferably, the benzimidazole derivative comprising at least one sulfonic radical according to the invention is 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid).

[0077] The benzimidazole derivative comprising at least one sulfonic radical according to the invention is, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) available in particular under the trade name 103089 NEO HELIOPAN HYDRO by Symrise, under the trade name CHEMSOL-HS by CHEMSPEC CHEMICALS, or under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232” by MERCK.

[0078] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the total content of active material of the water-soluble UV filter(s) present in the composition according to the invention is at least equal to 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Preferably, the total content of active material of the water-soluble UV filter(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.1% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.75% to 0.9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid and at least one water-soluble UV filter at a ratio between the total content of water-soluble UV filter(s) by weight of active material / total content by weight of ascorbic acid of from 0.006 to 0.2 and more preferably from 0.013 to 0.06. Additional UV filters

[0081] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one additional UV filter different from the water-soluble organic UV filters as described above.

[0082] The UV filter(s) may be chosen from lipophilic organic UV filters, water-dispersible organic UV filters and inorganic UV filters. Lipophilic organic UV filters

[0083] By "lipophilic organic filter" is meant any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

[0084] The lipophilic organic filters are in particular chosen from cinnamyl compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665;dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof.;

[0085] Preferably, the lipophilic organic filter(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name and / or their chemical name.

[0087] Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® MCX by the company DSM Nutritional Products; Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by the company Symrise,

[0088] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

[0089] Salicylic compounds: Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® OS” by the company Symrise,

[0090] BB-diphenyl salicylate compounds: Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® N 539 T” by the company BASF,

[0091] Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® M 40” by the company BASF, Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” or in mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus B” by the company BASF,

[0092] Benzylidene camphor compounds: 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX® 6300” by the company MERCK,

[0093] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds: Drometrizole Trisiloxane manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® XL” by the company NOVEAL,

[0094] Methylene bis-hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole compounds): Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB / 100 ®” by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL,

[0095] Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “Parsol Shield®” by DSM and under the trade name “TINOSORB® S” by BASF, - Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® T 150” by the company BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB® HEB” by the company 3V SIGMA, - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004),

[0096] Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the commercial trade name “NEO HELIOPAN® MA » by Symrise,

[0097] Benzalmalonate compounds: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by the company HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

[0098] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine. Water-dispersible organic UV filters

[0099] By "water-dispersible organic filter" is meant any organic filter capable of forming in a liquid aqueous phase a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume average size of less than 100 microns. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction granulometry.

[0100] Among the water-dispersible organic filters, the following filters may be mentioned.

[0101] Benzophenone compounds: 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[l-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-metha none (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (volume average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion,

[0102] Methylene bis-hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole compounds): Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C6Hi0O5)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6Hi0O5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® M” by the company BASF, or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm,in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C2o)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009 / 063392, in particular the product marketed under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,

[0103] Triazine compounds: , - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form of INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by the company BASF, - symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 μm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06 / 035000, WO06 / 034982, WO06 / 034991, WO06 / 035007, WO2006 / 034992, WO2006 / 034985,

[0104] Compounds benzoxazole: 2-[4-(l,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-l,3-benzoxazole, CAS number 904-39-2. Inorganic UV filters

[0105] The inorganic UV filters that can be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 μm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 μm, and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 μm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 μm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 μm. They are notably described in Annex VI updated on 09 / 22 / 2021 of the European Cosmetic Products Regulation number 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to this list.

[0106] They can be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or their mixtures.

[0107] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

[0108] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0109] Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0110] The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides: - hydrated silica such as the product "MT-100WP" from the company TAYCA, - silica and iron oxide such as the product "SUNVEIL F®" from the company IKEDA, - silica and alumina such as the products "MT-500SA®" and "MT-100SA®" from the company TAYCA, "TIOVEIL™ AQ-N" from the company CRODA, - alumina such as the products "TTO-55 (A)®" from the company ISHIHARA, - alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products "MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®" from the company TAYCA, the product "Solaveil™ CT100" from the company CRODA and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from the company MERCK, - silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product "MT-100AQ®" from the company TAYCA, - alumina and aluminum laurate, - iron oxide and iron stearate, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate, - silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products "MTY-500SAS®" or "MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®" from the company TAYCA, - silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, - silica and treated with a silicone, - alumina and treated with silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the ISHIHARA company, - triethanolamine, - stearic acid such as the product "TTO-55 (C)®" from the company ISHIHARA, - sodium hexametaphosphate, - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane, - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, - anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with polydimethylhydrogensiloxane, - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from CRODA, - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from CRODA, - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, - TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

[0111] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as, for example, a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, a fatty acid ester and of polyoxyalkylenated glycerol such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from polyoxyalkylenated glycerol fatty acid esters. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE with the INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRLPPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE or the product sold under the trade name “OPTISOL™ OTP-1” by CRODA company.

[0112] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names "MT-500B" or "MT-600B®", by the company Evonik under the name "DEGUSSA P 25".

[0113] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - those marketed under the name “Z-COTE®” by the company BASF; - those marketed under the name “NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0114] Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example: - ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane; - CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in Cl2-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid); - those marketed under the name "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®" by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent); - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

[0115] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

[0116] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

[0117] When the composition in accordance with the invention comprises inorganic UV filters, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0118] According to a particular embodiment, the total quantity of UV filters present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the total quantity of UV filters present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 16% and 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0119] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “total quantity of UV filters” means the sum of the concentrations of active material in each of the UV filters present in the composition, in particular the lipophilic organic UV filters, the hydrophilic organic UV filters, and the inorganic UV filters.

[0120] Cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain

[0121] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums (cationic guars) and cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain.

[0122] The cationic polymer according to the invention is chosen from cationic galactomannan gums (cationic guars) and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain (preferably polyquaternium-67).

[0123] Indeed, as shown in examples, these polymers are more favorable to the cosmeticity and stability of the compositions.

[0124] The cationic polymer according to the invention may be a cationic galactomannan gum (cationic guar). The term “cationic galactomannan gum” means any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.

[0125] Galactomannans are polysaccharides composed mainly of galactose and mannose units, in which the mannose units are linked by a 1-4-glycosidic bond and the galactose branching takes place by means of a 1-6 bridge to the mannose units. Each ring of the galactose or mannose units (or sugar units) carries three free hydroxyl groups available for chemical reaction. Galactomannans are commonly found in the endosperm of legume seeds such as guar or carob.

[0126] The preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups.

[0127] The cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular mass of between approximately 500 and 5 x 106, and preferably between approximately 103 and 3x106.

[0128] The cationic galactomannan gums which can be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising cationic groups. trialkyl (Ci-C4) ammonium. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums carry cationic trialkylammonium groups.

[0129] Among these trialkylammonium groups, we can particularly mention the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups.

[0130] Even more preferably, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.

[0131] According to the invention, the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyl trialkylammonium groups, more preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyl trimethylammonium groups, i.e. a guar gum modified for example by 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.

[0132] These galactomannan gums, in particular guar gums, modified by cationic groups, are products already known in themselves and are, for example, described in US patents 3,589,578 and US 4,031,307. Such products are also sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar EXCEL, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyl-trimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N-Hance® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.

[0133] The cationic polymer according to the invention may alternatively be a cationic cellulose polymer modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain. For the purposes of the present invention, a "cationic cellulose polymer" designates any non-silicone cellulose polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and preferably not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

[0134] According to the invention, the term “cellulosic” polymer means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure at least 20 chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds. The cellulosic polymer may be associative, i.e. have in its structure at least one C8-C30 fatty chain.

[0135] The cationic cellulosic polymers that can be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between approximately 5000 and 5.106, preferably of between approximately 103 and 3.106.

[0136] Among the cationic celluloses, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ethers comprising quaternary ammonium groups modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain.

[0137] Among the quaternized celluloses, mention may be made in particular of quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0138] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain, such as linear alkyl, linear arylalkyl, linear alkylaryl, preferably linear alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0139] Preferably, mention may be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib): in which: - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN-i--, Q- in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear alkyl, C1-C30, preferably an alkyl and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN-i—, Q'- in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear alkyl, C1-C30, and Q'- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0140] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other(s) radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0141] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear C8-C30 alkyl; better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14; mention may in particular be made of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, all the other radicals represent a linear C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.

[0142] Even better, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.

[0143] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0144] The percentage of nitrogen can vary from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of polymer, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight.

[0145] We can notably cite the polymers with INCI names: - Polyquatemium-24, such as the product QUATRISOFT LM 200®, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (Cl8 alkyl) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.

[0146] Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)3N+- and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C1-,(CH3)2(C12H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30, SL-5 and SX-1300X from the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.

[0147] More particularly, the cationic cellulose polymer is chosen from hydroxyethyl celluloses having reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-67).

[0148] It is preferably marketed under the name Softcat Polymer SL-100 or Softcat Polymer SX-1300X by Amerchol.

[0149] The total content of active material of the cationic polymer(s) which may be present in the composition according to the invention preferably ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Scleroglucan gums

[0150] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention includes one or more scleroglucan gums.

[0151] Scleroglucan gums are polysaccharides of microbial origin produced by a Sclerotium fungus, in particular Sclerotium rolfsii. They are polysaccharides consisting solely of glucose units.

[0152] The scleroglucan gums may or may not be modified. Preferably, the scleroglucan gums used in the present invention are unmodified.

[0153] Examples of scleroglucan gums which can be used in the present invention are, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the name ACTIGUM CS, in particular ACTIGUM CS 11, by the company SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES and under the name AMIGUM or AMIGEL by the company ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL.

[0154] Other scleroglucan gums, such as the glyoxal-treated one described in French patent application No. 2,633,940, may also be used.

[0155] The scleroglucan gum(s) which can be used according to the invention preferably represent a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic polymers

[0156] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic polymer comprising monomeric units of formula (A) and (B): in which: RI, independently of each other, are chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals;

[0157] with at least 60% by weight of the RI groups being radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage relating to the sum of all the RI groups present in the polymer; the weight ratio of the sum of all hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1; and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.

[0158] Preferably, RI consists of alkyl radicals, preferably C16-C22 alkyl radicals, and more preferably stearyl radicals (C18) or behenyl radicals (C22).

[0159] Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at least 90% by weight.

[0160] According to a preferred embodiment, all the RI groups are behenyl radicals.

[0161] According to another preferred embodiment, all the RI groups are stearyl radicals.

[0162] Preferably, said weight ratio ranges from 1:15 to 1:1, preferably from 1:10 to 1:4.

[0163] Advantageously, the polymer units present in the polymer consist of the units (A) and (B) described previously.

[0164] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer has a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g / mol, preferably ranging from 5,000 to 9,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight can be measured with the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described in the example below.

[0165] Preferably, the polymer has a melting temperature ranging from 40°C to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 45°C to 67°C. The melting temperature is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (or DSC: Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example according to the method described in the example below.

[0166] According to a first embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 40 to 60°C, and preferably ranging from 45 to 55°C.

[0167] According to a second embodiment, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer generally has a melting point ranging from 60 to 70°C, and preferably ranging from 63 to 67°C.

[0168] The polymer used according to the invention can be prepared by polymerization of monomer of formula CH2=CH-COO-R1, RI having the meaning described above, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

[0169] The polymerization can be carried out according to known methods, such as solution or emulsion polymerization.

[0170] The polymerization is for example described in document US 2007 / 0264204.

[0171] The lipophilic polymer(s) used in the context of the invention and as described previously may be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0172] The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

[0173] The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water at 25°C.

[0174] The water used may contain sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water.

[0175] An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, Saint Gervais Mont Blanc water, or Vichy water, or a floral water.

[0176] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) soluble or miscible in water are chosen from alcohols, polyols and their mixtures.

[0177] Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C10 alcohols, more preferably C1-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0178] The polyol(s) may be chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

[0179] Preferably, the water-soluble or miscible organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably glycerol and / or hexylene glycol and / or pentylene glycol.

[0180] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 30% by weight of water-soluble or miscible organic solvents, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 8% to 23% by weight.

[0181] According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including the hydrophilic filters, represents from 40% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 55% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] Preferably, the quantity of water in the composition in accordance with the invention is between 30% and 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0183] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a pH of 5.0 to 7.0. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0184] Such a pH in fact limits the degradation of the color of ascorbic acid, and thus limits the transformation of a colorless composition into a composition which becomes yellow to brown over time. When the pH is lower than 5, the composition becomes brown, and, rated on a color scale ranging from 0 (white, very light) to 9 (black, very dark), it has a score above 8.

[0185] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base.

[0186] The base is notably used to increase the final pH of the composition between 5.0 and 7.0, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5.

[0187] The base may be chosen from mineral bases such as, for example, alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0188] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. Indeed, these bases are more advantageous than nitrogenous bases, such as triethanolamine, in terms of color stabilization (i.e. less yellowing).

[0189] Preferably, the base of the composition according to the invention is present in a base:ascorbic acid weight ratio ranging from 0.22 to 0.30. Fat phase

[0190] The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0191] The fatty phase may consist of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; it may in particular comprise at least one oil. The fatty phase further comprises the lipophilic filter(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

[0192] Oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0193] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0194] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0195] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon oil” means any oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils may in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluorine, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0196] The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0197] As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of: (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, and musk rose; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; (ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof; (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by the company WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by the company ISP, lanolate isopropyl, hexyl laurate, dii- adipate isopropyl, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; (v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.

[0198] Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0199] As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0200] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and different by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil, and mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

[0201] Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Soit® by the company SHELL, may also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

[0202] The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates.

[0203] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 106 m2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0204] Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.

[0205] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used.

[0206] The fatty phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or dissolved in the oil, other fatty substances.

[0207] Another fatty substance which may be present in the oily phase may be, for example: - a fatty acid such as fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; preferably, higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - a wax chosen from waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candellila, paraffin waxes, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; - a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol), - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, - and mixtures thereof.

[0208] The overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including the lipophilic filters, represents from 20% to 60% by weight, and preferably from 25% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic active ingredients

[0209] The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

[0210] Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include moisturizing agents; natural extracts; vitamins other than vitamin C, as well as their derivatives (in particular esters); vitamin C derivatives (in particular esters); urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeasts and bacteria; enzymes; tightening agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and mixtures thereof. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0211] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, perfumes, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxy ethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (such as acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, polysaccharides other than scleroglucans, including xanthan gum), pH regulators (for example, triethanolamine, citric acid, and sodium hydroxide), fillers (for example, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsisesquioxane), and mixtures thereof.

[0212] A person skilled in the art will select the quantity of cosmetic active ingredients, adjuvants or additional additives so as not to harm the final use of the composition according to the present invention. Dosage forms

[0213] The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art.

[0214] The compositions in accordance with the invention may be presented in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / O, O / W / O or W / O / W) such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.

[0215] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0216] In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that can be used are of the blade or propeller, rotor-stator and HHP type.

[0217] To obtain stable emulsions with a low polymer content (oil / polymer ratio >25), it is possible to make the dispersion in concentrated phase then dilute the dispersion with the rest of the aqueous phase.

[0218] It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800 bars), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes that can go down to 100 nm.

[0219] The emulsions may generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).

[0220] As examples of W / O emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09® by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which, advantageously, may be chosen from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters.

[0221] Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

[0222] As polyol alkyl esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the marketed product under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

[0223] As glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] For H / W emulsions, examples of non-ionic emulsifying surfactants that may be mentioned are polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid and glycerol esters such as the polyethylene glycol and stearic acid ester with the INCI name PEG-100 STEARATE marketed under the name Myrj SIOO-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid esters, optionally in combination with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers,in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO-A-92 / 06778.

[0225] As anionic surfactants for producing O / W emulsions, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, hydrocarbon chain, and their salts, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of their salts (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name).

[0226] Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

[0227] As anionic surfactants for producing O / W emulsions, mention may also be made of hydrophobic modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified by hydrophobic chains such as alkylcarbamate groups, in particular C8-C18 alkyl carbamate, and more particularly laurylcarbamate.

[0228] As an example of these compounds, we can notably cite the product sold under the name INUTEC SL1 by the company CREACHEM.

[0229] The compositions according to the invention may also be aqueous solutions, more preferably aqueous solutions with a slightly gelled appearance.

[0230] According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a single-phase aqueous composition. This composition may be called a “serum”. By “serum” is meant a composition with a fluid texture, a slightly gelled, runny appearance.

[0231] According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably substantially free of surfactants. By "substantially free of surfactants" is meant that the composition according to the invention has a surfactant content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1% by weight. The surfactants may preferably be peptizers, the concentration of which is between 0.1 and 2% by weight; they allow the solubilization of a small quantity of oil(s) or lipophilic compounds or perfume(s) (i.e. concentration of perfume(s) or oil(s) or lipophilic compound(s) of between 0.05% and 2%).

[0232] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is transparent.

[0233] For the purposes of the present invention, the term transparent composition means a composition having a turbidity value of less than 200 NTU, preferably less than 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU. Preferably, the turbidity of the compositions is at least equal to 1 NTU.

[0234] NTU (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units of measurement for the turbidity of a composition. Turbidity measurement is carried out, for example, with a Hach Company model 2100P turbidimeter, the tubes used for the measurement being referenced AR397A cat 24347-06. Measurements are carried out at room temperature (20°C to 25°C).

[0235] Preferably, the composition is transparent and has a turbidity value of between 1 and 200 NTU, preferably between 1 and 150 NTU, preferably less than 100 NTU.

[0236] Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of ke- keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention. EXAMPLES

[0237] The present invention will now be described more specifically by way of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

[0238] A / Examples of synthesis of lipophilic polymers comprising monomeric units of formula fA) and fB) in accordance with the invention

[0239] Determination of molecular weight by gel permeation chromatography (GPC): The sample is prepared by making a 10 mg / ml solution of the polymer in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54 °C for 10 minutes and then in a rocking shaker for 60 minutes to aid dissolution. Upon visual inspection, the sample appears completely dissolved in the solvent. The prepared sample was analyzed using two 300 x 7.5 mm polypore columns (manufactured by Agilent Technologies), a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase, and refractive index detection. The sample was filtered through a 0.45 µm nylon filter before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for calibration were Agilent Technologies' Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards. Polystyrene standards ranging from 2,520,000 to 162 Daltons were used for calibration. The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RL detector. The polystyrene calibration curve was used to determine the average molecular weight. The recording of the diagrams and the determination of the different molecular weights was done by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.

[0240] Determination of melting point by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) This method describes the general procedure for determining the melting point of polymers by differential scanning calorimetry. This method is based on ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182 and the DSC calibration is performed according to ASTM E 9672.

[0241] Behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 1): In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two more necks, 175 g behenyl acrylate, 25 g 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g 2,2'-Azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile) (Akzo Nobel) was added for 60 minutes at 80 °C in 40 g of isopropanol with stirring after removing oxygen from the system using a nitrogen purge for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was removed by vacuum distillation, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 110 °C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C and a jet of deionized water was added followed by stirring. The water was removed by vacuum distillation. Molecular weight: Mn = 7300 g / mol, Mw = 21000, Mw / Mn = 2.8 Melting point: 65 °C

[0242] Stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer (Polymer 2): In a 4-necked flask equipped with a side-blade stirrer, an internal thermometer, two funnels, a reflux condenser, and an extension for two more necks, 155 g of behenyl acrylate, 45 g of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, and 0.4 g of 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutyronitrile (Akzo Nobel) were added for 90 minutes at 80 °C in 50 g of isopropanol with stirring after removing oxygen from the system using a nitrogen purge for 20 minutes. The mixture was stirred at 80 °C for 3 hours. Then the solvent was distilled off in vacuo, then 1 g of dilauryl peroxide was added, and the reaction was continued for 60 minutes at 125 °C. The step was repeated. The mixture was then cooled to 90 °C and a jet of demineralized water was added and stirred. The water was removed by vacuum distillation. Molecular weight: Mn = 7500 g / mol, Mw = 19000, Mw / Mn = 2.6 Melting point: 49°C

[0243] B / Examples of formulations

[0244] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the quantities of the ingredients present in the compositions are given in % by weight of raw materials (RM) or active materials (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0245] Method of preparing the compositions The manufacturing process of the exemplified compositions is conventional. Production in the main tank:

[0246] Introduce the raw materials of phase Al into the tank. Place the tank under vacuum, stir with a paddle and turbine to homogenize the phase Al and heat to a temperature of 47 °C. Once the temperature is reached, stop heating and suck up the raw materials of phase A2. Apply a turbine efficiency between 2000 rpm and 2500 rpm still under vacuum at a temperature of 47 °C. Take care to disperse well until a homogeneous medium is obtained without gel grains.

[0247] Once phases A1 and A2 are well homogeneous, introduction of phase B as prepared according to the manufacturing process defined below, stir the mixture well until a compliant emulsion is obtained, for a minimum of 10-15 minutes with a turbine efficiency of between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm still under vacuum and with a temperature of between 50 °C and 55 °C. Once a compliant emulsion is obtained, cool the preparation under scraper blades and under vacuum until a temperature of less than 35 °C is obtained. At this stage, introduce the raw materials of phases C1 and C2 with stirring of between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm. Disperse until a compliant emulsion and good dispersion of the fillers are obtained with stirring of between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm. Continue to cool under scraper blades and under vacuum if necessary.At 33°C, inert the manufacturing tank until the end of manufacturing, then at a temperature below 33°C, introduce the raw materials of phase D while stirring with a turbine efficiency of between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm. Continue stirring until an emulsion conforms to the microscope. Once this stage is reached, introduce the raw materials of phases E1, E2 and E3 in this order and stir with a turbine efficiency of between 2500 rpm and 3000 rpm for 15 minutes. Manufacturing process for phase B: .

[0248] In a second tank, introduce the raw materials of phase B, heat to a temperature of 65-70 °C with a deflocculator. Homogenize until the medium has melted and is completely solubilized.

[0249] Transfer phase B into the main tank for emulsification. Comparative example - Compositions 1 to 3

[0250] [Tables 1] Phase Composition 1 (comparatif) 2 (invention) 3 (comparatif) Al WATER / AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 Al GLYCERIN 3 3 3 Al PROPANEDIOL 2,5 2,5 2,5 Al CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,3 0,3 0,3 Al ACTIF(S) 0,413 0,413 0,413 Al SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE - - 0,5 A2 POLYQUATERNI UM-67 0,11 0,11 0,11 A2 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0,1 - - B ACTIF(S) 0,3 0,3 0,3 B ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 4 4 4 B ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 3,5 3,5 3,5 B DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 4 4 4 B C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE 4,8 4,8 4,8 B BUTYL ME-THOXYDIBENZ OYLMETHANE (PARSOL 1789 de DSM NU-TRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3,5 3,5 B ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE - 4,5 4,5 (UVINUL T150 from BASF) B DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE (MEXORYL XL from NOVEAL) - 5 5 B BIS-ETHYLHEX YLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHEN YL TRIAZINE (TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 B C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYD ROXYETHYLAC RYLATE COPOLYMER (Polymer 1) 2 B STEARIC ACID - - 1.5 Cl CHARGE(S) 1 1 1 Cl ACTIVE(S) 2 2 2 C2 PERFUME 0.2 0.2 0.2 C2 WATER / AQUA 0.896 0.896 0.896 C2 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 0.1 0.1 0.1 C2 TOCOPHEROL 1 1 1 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 8 8 8 El ASCORBIC ACID 10 10 - E2 PH ADJUSTER QSP pH = 6 QSP pH = 6 QSP pH = 6 E3 PHENYLBENZIM IDAZOLE - 0.75 0.75 SULFONIC ACID (EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK)

[0251] Protocol for application and evaluation of formulas on adipose tissues.

[0252] Application support: adipose tissue (skin explants) of dimension 2x2cm obtained from biopsy; Application of the formulas to be tested and a placebo containing no filters or active ingredients such as vitamin C, topically; Pre-incubation for 48 hours with renewal of the treatment of adipose tissues with the formulas to be tested after 24 hours; After renewal of the treatment, irradiation of the explants by UVB (1.25 J / cm2) and UVA (3.8 J / cm2); For irradiation, use a BS-02 UV irradiation chamber (Opsytec Dr. Grôbel);

[0253] After irradiation, the explants underwent further treatment and were incubated for 24 hours; After these 24 hours, the skin explants were rinsed and punctures were made on each skin explant (8 mm in diameter). All experimental conditions were carried out three times. Evaluation method

[0254] Gene analysis by quantitative PCR on MMP3: MMP3 - Metalloproteinase 3: Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are enzymes that constitute a family of zinc-containing proteinases. These are responsible for the degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins, which form the dermal connective tissue of the skin. MMPs are involved in a wide range of proteolytic events in physiological circumstances, including skin aging. Results and evaluation

[0255] On the quantification of MMP3 genes: [Tables 2] Formula tested on explants MMP3 gene expression rate in the sample after exposure to UV rays Placebo 217 Composition 1 (comparative) = 10% vit C 71 Composition 2 (invention) = 10% vit C + UV filters 26 Composition 3 (comparative) = UV filters 142

[0256] The analysis of these results shows several pieces of information: The placebo contains a significant level of MMP3 gene expression; The presence of UV filters alone helps protect the skin with a reduction in the expression rate of the MMP3 gene; The 10% vitamin C level helps protect the skin with a decrease in the expression rate of the MMP3 gene; The formula with UV filters and 10% vitamin C provides better skin protection with the lowest rate of MMP3 gene expression.

[0257] Thus, the combination of a filtering system containing one or more water-soluble UV filters, preferably benzimidazole derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical, with a high vitamin C level makes it possible to reduce the signs of aging, in particular those linked to the stimulation of the expression of collagenases, in particular MMP-3.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising: a) at least 1% by weight of ascorbic acid, preferably at least 5% by weight, and even more preferably at least 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one water-soluble organic UV filter; and c) at least one additional UV filter different from the water-soluble filters K'»

2. D). Composition according to claim 1 comprising from 1% to 30% by weight of ascorbic acid, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter chosen from bis-benzoazolyl derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives and their mixtures, preferably at a content of at least 0.1% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV filter chosen from benzimidazole derivatives comprising at least one sulfonic radical.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 comprising 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid).

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 comprising from 0.1% to 3% by weight of active material of water-soluble organic UV filters relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.75% to 0.9% by weight.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in which the additional filter(s) are chosen from lipophilic organic UV filters, water-dispersible organic UV filters, and inorganic UV filters.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV filter chosen from:

9.

10. cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; filter polymers and filter silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 comprising Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 comprising at least one water-dispersible organic UV filter chosen from Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure CnH2n+iO(C 6Hio05)xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6Hi0O5) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6;Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 pm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm, in the presence of at least one polyglycerol mono-(C8-C2o)alkyl ester having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates / C 12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer; symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm), and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine.; ^Claim 11] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 comprising at least one inorganic screening agent chosen from titanium oxides and zinc oxides. ^Claim 12] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 comprising at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain. ^Claim 13] Composition according to claim 12 comprising at least one cationic polymer chosen from guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups and quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one linear fatty chain; preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide [Chem. 2] ' ■- s ..ry R KO 0^ O—( Œ. ©—C—C —|-H 0 b) ** * H [ s ï and preferably from Guar Hydroxypropyl Tri-Methyl Ammonium chloride and hydroxyethyl celluloses reacted with a trimethyl ammonium epoxide and a lauryl dimethyl ammonium epoxide (INCI name polyquaternium-67). ^Claim 14] Composition according to any one of claims 12 and 13 comprising from 0.05% to 5% by weight of active material of cationic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 2% by weight. ^Claim 15] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 in which the pH of the composition is between 5.5 and 6.

5. ^Claim 16] Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 comprising at least one base, preferably the base of the composition. is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and more preferably sodium hydroxide.