Cosmetic composition based on chitosan and at least one crystallizable fatty substance

Abstract

Cosmetic composition based on chitosan and at least one crystallizable fat. The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for makeup and / or skin and / or lip and / or hair care, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, and b) at least one crystallizable fat. It also relates to a method for applying makeup and / or skin and / or lip and / or hair care, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or hair. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition based on chitosan and at least one crystallizable fatty substance

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular for makeup and / or skin care and / or lip care and / or hair care, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0002] a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total composition weight, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, and

[0003] b) at least one crystallizable fat.

[0004] The present invention also relates to a method of makeup and / or skin care and / or lip care and / or hair care, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or hair.

[0005] Many cosmetic compositions require the desired adhesion of the deposited film after application to keratinous materials. Examples include lipsticks, foundations, mascaras, and nail polishes. To achieve this result, specific raw materials, particularly film-forming agents, can be combined. Furthermore, the goal is often to obtain covering compositions.

[0006] There is a need for such systems to obtain easily formulable compositions, preferably fluid, based on chitosan, exhibiting good sensory properties upon application, whose deposit exhibits good optical properties, for example, coverage, matte finish and exhibiting good durability and whose resistance, for example to dry mechanical wear, to oil, or to water, is improved.

[0007] In particular, there is a need for systems enabling the production of chitosan-based compositions in the form of emulsions, or even an aqueous gel, and exhibiting improved resistance, particularly to water.

[0008] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.

[0009] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling us to address these environmental challenges.

[0010] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0011] These problems can be solved by implementing cosmetic compositions described below, these compositions exhibiting good formulation, good cosmetic properties, in particular good resistance of makeup properties, such as coverage or mattifying effect, under dry rubbing, to water, oils and / or sebum, as well as good sensory qualities. The present invention aims in particular to provide emulsions comprising chitosan and exhibiting good resistance to dry rubbing, water and / or oil.

[0012] After application, these compositions leave a film-forming deposit that is potentially opaque and homogeneous, and has good wear resistance. The films formed are adhesive and cohesive, and exhibit improved resistance to dryness, water, and / or oil.

[0013] These compositions also include sustainable ingredients, thus helping to address environmental challenges.

[0014] The present invention therefore relates to a composition, in particular for makeup and / or skin care and / or lip care and / or hair care, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0015] a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total composition weight, of native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, and

[0016] b) at least one crystallizable fat.

[0017] Indeed, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that adding a crystallizable fatty substance to a composition, preferably an aqueous emulsion or gel, containing chitosan, improves the dry, water, and / or oil resistance of said composition. It has also been observed that these two ingredients act synergistically to obtain a homogeneous composition and a pleasant texture upon application with controlled viscosity.

[0018] By “physiologically acceptable”, we mean a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0019] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, in relation to the total weight of the composition, 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, of silicone.

[0020] By silicone, we mean any silicone compound.

[0021] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone, different from a film-forming or tackant silicone polymer, preferably different from a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably different from an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.

[0022] By "substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tack-forming silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer", it is understood that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone other than a film-forming or tack-forming silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.Preferably, the composition is totally free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. By silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, is meant any silicone compound that is not a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably not a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably not an MQ resin or an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.

[0023] The term "resin" refers to a compound with a three-dimensional structure. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0024] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

[0025] The letter “M” represents the Monofunctional unit of formula RlR2R3SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

[0026] The letter “D” signifies a Difunctional unit R1 R2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

[0027] The letter “T” represents a Trifunctional unit of formula RlSiO3 / 2.

[0028] In the motifs M, D, T defined above, Ri, namely RI, R2 and R3, identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or even a hydroxyl group.

[0029] Finally, the letter “Q” signifies a Tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

[0030] Such resins are described for example in "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), p. 265-270, and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or even US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.

[0031] MQ-type silicone resins are, for example, alkylsiloxysilicates of the formula [(Rl)3SiO1 / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ units), where x and y are integers from 50 to 80, and such that the RI group represents a radical as defined above, and preferably is an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group. In particular, trimethylsiloxysilicate or phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, are distinguished.

[0032] Silicone polymers include siloxanes having an organo group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl group is other than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes with the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes with the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organo group such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl group, for example organopolysiloxanes with the INCI name Amodimethicone, or, for example, the organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25,25-Dimethicone or Cetyl PEG / PPG-15 / 15 Butyl ether Dimethicone.

[0033] Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers comprising a siloxane group and a hydrocarbon group. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone such as, for example, a backbone selected from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers and / or acrylic polymers and at least one chain selected from pendant siloxane groups and polymers comprising a backbone of siloxane groups and at least one pendant hydrocarbon chain such as, for example, a pendant vinyl, methacrylic and / or acrylic group.

[0034] The silicone acrylate copolymer can be selected from polymers derived from nonpolar silicone copolymers comprising repeating units of at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit and vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one nonpolar silicone chain. Non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylate / dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, products sold under the brand names KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate / dimethicone copolymer), KP-561 (acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), KP-562 (acrylates / behenyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), and mixtures thereof.Additional examples include acrylate / dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the brand names FA 4001 CM SILICONE ACRYLATE (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), FA 4002 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE (isododecane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer), and mixtures thereof.

[0035] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is substantially silicone-free. By "substantially silicone-free," it is understood that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is completely silicone-free. In this embodiment, silicone means any silicone compound, including film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers.

[0036] The composition is preferably in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or a water-in-oil emulsion (reverse emulsion).

[0037] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, having in particular a weight ratio of oil phase / aqueous phase between 5:95 and 80:20, preferably between 8:92 and 65:35, preferably between 10:90 and 60:40, preferably between 12:88 and 50:50, preferably between 15:85 and 40:60.

[0038] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, having in particular a weight ratio of oil phase / aqueous phase between 90:10 and 20:80, preferably between 80:20 and 30:70, preferably between 70:30 and 40:60, preferably between 65:35 and 45:55.

[0039] The composition according to the invention can also be in the form of an aqueous dispersion or an aqueous gel.

[0040] It also relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or skin care and / or lip care and / or hair care, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or hair care. Chitosan

[0041] The composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one native chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons (3 kDa).

[0042] The amount of native chitosan is also strictly less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa. Preferably, the native chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

[0044] One Dalton is equivalent to 1 g / mol.

[0045] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0046] Chitosan is obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by a [3 (1,4) type bond.

[0047] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of [3-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0048] By "chitosan" according to the invention, we mean any copolymer formed of constituent units N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by [3(1,4) type bonds and constitutes a polymer of the type Poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine).

[0049] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%.

[0050] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy or by titration with a strong base.

[0051] The chitosan of the invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal origin. In particular, it is extracted and purified from fungal sources. safe and abundant food or biotechnological products such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0052] The chitosan of the invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0053] Chitosan may be of GMO origin, but preferably is of non-GMO origin.

[0054] The chitosan according to the invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modification.

[0055] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in application WO03068824.

[0056] Preferably, the chitosan used in the invention is in powder form. It is notably marketed by Kitozyme under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

[0057] Chitosan is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5%, preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Crystallizable fat

[0058] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one crystallizable fat.

[0059] By "fatty substance", we mean an organic compound insoluble in water At ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably 1%, and even more preferably 0.1%), they have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. The crystallizable fat(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, more preferably of vegetable or animal origin, or of insect origin. They differ from fatty acids because saline fatty acids constitute soaps that are generally soluble in aqueous media.

[0060] For the purposes of this invention, crystallizable fat means a solid lipophilic compound that is deformable or non-deformable at room temperature (25°C) and has a melting point greater than or equal to 25°C, preferably between 25°C and 200°C, preferably between 35°C and 150°C, preferably between 45°C and 130°C, preferably between 55°C and 120°C.

[0061] Some crystallizable fats are commonly called waxes.

[0062] The wax(s)

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0064] The term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, up to 200°C, and in particular up to 120°C. In particular, the wax(s) suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0065] For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the crystallizable fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. Such a measurement method is described, for example, in document PCT / EP2013 / 062964.

[0066] Among the crystallizable fats of mineral origin, we can mention: paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin and microcrystalline wax.

[0067] Among the crystallizable fatty substances of vegetable origin, we can mention: camauba wax, candelilla wax such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch, laurel wax, sugar cane wax, ceramide, alfa wax, olive wax, rice wax such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Rica Noda, sunflower (seed) wax such as that sold by Koster Keunen under the reference sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, Polyglyceryl-3 esters of green mimosa, jojoba and sunflower waxes, and absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax, soy wax, myrica fruit wax.

[0068] Other crystallizable fats of vegetable origin may be cited, such as: Caranday wax, Raffia wax, Colombian wax, Alfa wax, Alfa wax, Alfalfa wax, Bamboo wax, Hemp wax, Douglas fir wax, Cork wax, Sisal wax, Linseed wax, Cotton wax, Dammar wax, Cereal wax, Tea wax, Coffee wax, Ocatilla wax, Palm waxes, Myrica wax, Bayberry wax, Ucuhuba wax, Borneo wax, Malabar wax, Illipe wax and Japanese tallow wax or Japanese wax.

[0069] Among the crystallizable fats of animal origin, we can mention: beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), lanolin and spermaceti.

[0070] The crystallizable fat(s) can also be chosen from long-chain crystallizable alcohols and their mixtures, such as cetearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, C26-C22 alcohols.

[0071] The crystallizable fat(s) may also be selected from long-chain crystallizable esters and mixtures thereof, such as the INCI compound "CETYL ESTERS (and) CETYL ESTERS MIXTURE OF MYRISTYL STEARATE AND MYRISTYLE PALMITATE", or the INCI compound "MIXTURE OF MYRISTYLE STEARATE AND MYRISTYLE PALMITATE", glycol distearate, glycol stearate, cetyl palmitate such as the commercial product ERCAWAX CP V / O from supplier ERCA, isopropyl palmitate, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof, such as, for example, the compound sold under the name COMPRITOL 888 CG ATO from Gattefosse (INCI: GLYCERYL DIBEHENATE (and) TRIBEHENIN (and) GLYCERYL BEHENATE) or each of its components taken separately, glycerol behenic acid triester (INCI: TRIBEHENIN), glycerol hydroxystearic acid triester (INCI: TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN), tricaprine,Trilaurin, trimyristin, tripalmitin, tristearin, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dipalmitostearate, and linoleoyl polyoxyl-6 glyceride. The crystallizable fat(s) selected from long-chain crystallizable esters and mixtures thereof are preferably selected from esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids, possibly substituted with a hydroxyl group.

[0072] The crystallizable fat(s) may also be chosen from long alkyl chain crystallizable fatty acids and their mixtures, such as for example the INCI compound "STEARIC ACID", mixtures of stearic acid and palmitic acid, in particular from C4-C28 saturated fatty acids and C4-C28 unsaturated fatty acids.

[0073] Other crystallizable fats that can be used according to the invention include marine waxes, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general, such as α-oligomers of olefins, for example the Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene / propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, or Fischer-Tropsch waxes or a mixture of these products.

[0074] Preferably, the crystallizable fat is selected from among crystallizable fats of animal or vegetable origin, esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted with a hydroxy group, and copolymers of sorbitol and C6-C16 difatty acids esterified with C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from glycerol and behenic acid triester, glycerol and hydroxystearic acid triester, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid, and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with of behenic acid, preferably chosen from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid, the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, and sunflower wax.

[0075] Preferably, the crystallizable fat is present in a content of between 0.01% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 12% by weight, preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 8% by weight, advantageously between 1.5% and 7% by weight.

[0076] According to one embodiment, the weight ratio between chitosan and crystallizable fat is between 0.00025 and 300, preferably between 0.001 and 100, preferably between 0.01 and 30, preferably between 0.05 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 4, preferably between 0.1 and 2, preferably between 0.5 and 2, advantageously between 0.5 and 1.

[0077] According to one embodiment, the weight ratio between chitosan and crystallizable fat is greater than or equal to 0.1, preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, preferably greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, preferably greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10.

[0078] According to another embodiment, the weight ratio between the crystallizable fat and the chitosan is greater than or equal to 0.1, preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 0.8, preferably greater than or equal to 1, preferably greater than or equal to 1.5, preferably greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 5, preferably greater than or equal to 10. Pigment coloring agents

[0079] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pigmentary coloring material. This pigmentary coloring material is selected from powdered coloring materials such as mineral pigments, mother-of-pearls, and organic pigments.

[0080] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0081] Preferably, the pigment colouring material is chosen from mineral pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof, preferably the pigment colouring material is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Preferably, the pigment colorant is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 8% to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Mineral pigments

[0083] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0084] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, and ZrO₂ mixed with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, and ZnS.

[0085] The size of the pigment useful within the framework of the present invention is generally greater than 5 nm, preferably greater than 10 nm, preferably greater than 20 nm, preferably greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 5 nm to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm. Particle sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial Malvem MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer, allowing for the determination of the particle size distribution across a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory.This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% of the particle volume.

[0086] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, titanium dioxide and iron oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example, marketed under the reference NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI, may be cited more specifically.

[0087] As examples of mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, we can also mention the mother-of-pearl.

[0088] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

[0089] The pearlescent pigments can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed. Natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment, or bismuth oxychloride can also be cited as examples of pearlescent pigments.Among the mother-of-pearl products available on the market, we can mention TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® (mica-based) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON® marketed by MERCK, PRESTIGE® mica-based mother-of-pearl marketed by ECKART and SUNSHINE® synthetic mica-based mother-of-pearl marketed by SUN CHEMICAL.

[0090] Mother-of-pearl can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection. By way of illustration of the mother-of-pearl that can be used in the context of the present invention, one can, in particular, mention gold-colored mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD, under the name Brillant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) ® (Microna);brown mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the names Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); copper-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502)® (Chromalite); red mother-of-pearl with a gold tint, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name; Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica); blue mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna); white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver®; and orange-pink-green-gold mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and their mixtures.

[0091] Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, we can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized such as produced by classic coloring materials, such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of this invention, "stabilized" means free from any color variation with the viewing angle or in response to temperature changes. For example, this material can be selected from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and, in particular, interference fibers. Naturally, these different materials can be combined to produce two effects simultaneously, or even a new effect according to the invention.

[0092] The metallic-reflecting particles usable in the invention are in particular selected from:

[0093] - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative,

[0094] - particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, monomaterial or multi-material, covered at least partially by at least one metallic sheen layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and

[0095] - mixtures of said particles.

[0096] Among the metals that may be present in said particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and their mixtures or alloys (for example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

[0097] Metallic derivatives are defined as compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides

[0098] By way of illustration of these particles, one can cite aluminium particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

[0099] We can also mention metallic powders of copper or mixtures of alloys, such as references 2844 marketed by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments, such as aluminium or bronze, such as those marketed under the names ROTOSAFE 700® by the company ECKART, aluminium particles coated with silica marketed under the name VISION AIRE BRIGHT SILVER® by the company ECKART and metallic alloy particles, such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold® by the company Eckart.

[0100] It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0101] The goniochromatic staining agent can be chosen, for example, from interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal staining agents.

[0102] Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures usable in compositions made according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: APSiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR® by FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL® by BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA® by the company MERCK (Darmstadt).For example, these pigments include the silica / titanium dioxide / tin dioxide pigments marketed under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK, and the silica / titanium dioxide / mica / tin dioxide pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARIBBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. Another example is the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. For instance, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color shifts from gold-green to gray-red for SiO2 layers between 320 and 350 nm; and from red to gold for SiO2 layers between 380 and 400 nm. From violet to green for SiO2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.

[0103] Examples of pigments with a polymer multilayer structure include those marketed by 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

[0104] As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, one can use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX, as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER. Hydrophobic coated pigments

[0105] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and in particular as detailed below.

[0106] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous because it can be used in large quantities in conjunction with a large quantity of water. Moreover, when treated with a hydrophobic compound, it exhibits a predominant affinity for the oily gel phase, which can then carry it.

[0107] Of course, the compositions according to the invention may also contain uncoated pigments.

[0108] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0109] For the purposes of the invention, the coating of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

[0110] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0111] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0112] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

[0113] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% % by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0114] The coating can be achieved for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant to the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.

[0115] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

[0116] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

[0117] When the pigment includes a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0118] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-siliconized surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof. Silicone surfactant

[0119] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be treated on the surface totally or partially with a silicone compound.

[0120] Silicone surfactants can be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to the silicon atoms. Non-elastomer organopolysiloxane

[0122] Examples of non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

[0123] The alkoxy group can be represented by the RO- radical such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

[0124] A method for treating the surface of pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists of dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent, then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are formed between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular selected from polydimethylsiloxanes. Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

[0126] Alkoxy-functional silanes are notably described by Witucki in A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993.

[0127] Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes marketed under the references Milquet A-137® (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) can be used for coating pigments.

[0128] The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino is described in application JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments. Silicone-acrylate polymers

[0129] Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone skeleton as described in US patents 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in US patents 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582, may be used.

[0130] Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers having in their structure the following formula motif (II): (II) in which the identical or different Gb radicals represent hydrogen or a Ci-Cio alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the identical or different G2 radicals represent a Ci-Cio alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one anionic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer with ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b is an integer from 10 to 350, provided that one of the parameters a and c is not equal to 0.

[0131] Preferably, the above formula motif (I) exhibits at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:

[0132] - the Gi radicals designate an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; -n is non-zero, and the G2 radicals represent a divalent radical in Ci-C3, preferably a propylene radical;

[0133] -G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of au minus one monomer of the carboxylic acid type with ethylenic unsaturation, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid;

[0134] - G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of au minus one monomer of the type alkyl (Ci-Cio) acrylate, preferably of the type isobutyl or methyl (meth) acrylate.

[0135] Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type linker, mixed polymer motifs of the poly(meth)acrylic acid and poly(meth)acrylate type.

[0136] Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which isobutyl poly(meth)acrylate polymer motifs are grafted via a thiopropylene linker. Silicone resins

[0137] The silicone surfactant can be chosen from silicone resins such as those defined above. Fluorinated surfactant

[0138] The pigments can be surface-treated totally or partially with a compound of fluorinated nature.

[0139] Fluorinated surfactants may be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropoly ethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropoly ether groups.

[0140] A perfluoroalkyl radical is understood to be an alkyl radical in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0141] Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by the company MONTEFLUOS.

[0142] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. Perfluoroalkyl amine diethanol phosphates marketed by Asahi Glass under the reference Asahi Guard AG530® may be used.

[0143] Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, examples include perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, and hydrocarbons. aromatic perfluorinated compounds (perfluoroarenes) and hydrocarbon organoperfluorinated compounds containing at least one heteroatom.

[0144] Among the perfluoroalkanes, we can mention the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

[0145] Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and the perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), we can mention perfluorodecalin sold under the name FLUTEC PP5 GMP by the RHODIA Company, perfluoro(methyldecalin), the perfluoro(C3-C5)alkyl-cyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).

[0146] Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes we can mention the derivatives of bicyclo[3.3.1]nonane such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, the derivatives of adamantane such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and the perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluoro-tetradecahydrophenanthrene.

[0147] Among the perfluoroarenes, we can cite the perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-l-naphthalene.

[0148] As an example of commercial references for pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, one can cite:

[0149] - yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the Daito Kasei company;

[0150] - red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by Daito Kasei;

[0151] - black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100® by the company Daito Kasei;

[0152] - titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50® by the company Daito Kasei;

[0153] - yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki;

[0154] - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by Cardre Inc.; and

[0155] - DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under reference T 9506® by Warner- Jenkinson. Fluoro-silicone surfactant

[0156] The pigments can be surface-treated totally or partially with a fluoro-silicone compound.

[0157] The fluoro-silicone compound can be selected from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyltrialcoxysilanes.

[0158] Examples of perfluoroalkyl silanes include LP-IT® and LP-4T® products marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

[0159] As an example of commercial references for pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, one can cite titanium dioxide / fluoro silicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. Other lipophilic surfactants

[0160] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be chosen from

[0161] (i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and aluminum salt hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

[0162] As examples of metallic soaps, one can cite in particular metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0163] The metal in metallic soap may include zinc or magnesium.

[0164] As a metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof may be used.

[0165] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be chosen from ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid.

[0166] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may include an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0167] The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

[0168] The salts of these compounds may be the salts of aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium.

[0169] Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative can be in particular a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate.

[0170] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0171] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

[0172] Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the trade reference BWB0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWR0-I2® (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0173] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be vi) isostearyl sebacate.

[0174] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from vii) natural vegetable or animal waxes or synthetic polar waxes;

[0175] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from viii) fatty esters, in particular from jojoba esters;

[0176] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be chosen from ix) phospholipids.

[0177] The waxes mentioned in the compounds cited above may be those generally used in the cosmetic field, as defined below.

[0178] They may in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, possibly containing ester or hydroxyl groups. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0179] Polar wax is defined as a wax containing chemical compounds with at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may include, for example, alcohol, ester, or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, and Fischer-Tropsch waxes are not considered polar waxes.

[0180] In particular, polar waxes have a mean solubility parameter ôa of HANSEN at 25°C such that ôa > 0 (J / cm3)1 / 2 and better ôa > 1 (J / cm3)1 / 2:

[0181] [Math.l] ™ , 0^ T where ôp and ôh are respectively the polar and interaction-type contributions specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.

[0182] The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by CM HANSEN, The three dimensional solubility parameters J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

[0183] - ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

[0184] - ôp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles thus that the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0185] The parameters ôp and ôh are expressed in (J / cm3)1 / 2.

[0186] A polar wax is notably made up of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P).

[0187] By way of illustration and not limitation of these polar waxes, one may mention in particular natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, the lemon wax, and insect waxes from China, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax.

[0188] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0189] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, or with a fatty ester, in particular with a jojoba ester.

[0190] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0191] As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEI, may be mentioned more particularly. Pigments not coated by a hydrophobic compound

[0192] As stated previously, a composition may further contain pigments not coated by a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

[0193] These other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound or uncoated.

[0194] These pigments may be mineral pigments, in particular as defined above.

[0195] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0196] By organic pigment is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0197] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0198] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0199] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0200] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0201] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0202] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1). Nature of the hydrophilic coating

[0203] As stated previously, these other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0204] Said hydrophilic compound allowing surface treatment of a pigment to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0205] Examples of biological polymers include carbohydrate-type monomer-based polymers.

[0206] In particular, examples include biosaccharide gum; chitosans and their derivatives, such as butoxychitosans, carboxymethyl chitosans, carboxybutyl chitosans, chitosans gluconate, chitosans adipate, chitosans glycolate, chitosans lactate, etc.; chitins and their derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0207] Examples of carbohydrates include polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones, with the general formula: Cx(H2O)y

[0208] in which x and y can range from 1 to 1,000,000.

[0209] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0210] Examples of carbohydrates include amylodextrins, betaglucans, cyclodextrins, modified maize starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, Triticum Vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, sodium chondroitin sulfate.

[0211] Alkylene glycols in Ci-C2o or alkylene glycol ethers in Ci-C20 can still be used as surface treatment agents, alone or used in combination with tri-Ci-C20-alkylsilanes.

[0212] Examples include pigments treated on the surface with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilane, such as, for example, pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane marketed by the company KOBO under the name of SW pigments.

[0213] Silicones such as dimethicones possessing hydrophilic groups, also known as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, may also be suitable for the invention as surface treatment agents. In particular, such dimethicones may comprise, as repeating units, Ci-C20 alkylene oxides, such as ethylenic or propylenic.

[0214] As an example, we can cite the pigment treated with PEG-12-Dimethicone, marketed by the company SENSIENT CORPORATION, under the name LCW AQ® Pigment.

[0215] The quantity of pigments coated by at least one hydrophilic compound and / or uncoated pigments is notably determined by the intended use of the composition cosmetic considerations and their adjustment are of course within the competence of the formulator of the composition.

[0216] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxides and / or iron oxides, in particular coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, in particular with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, in particular with a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate.

[0217] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated or coated pigment, preferably at least one coated pigment. Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA)

[0218] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one alpha hydroxy acid.

[0219] According to the present invention, alpha hydroxy acid means a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl group occupying an alpha position on said acid (carbon adjacent to a carboxylic acid group). This acid may be present in the final composition as a free acid and / or as one of its associated salts (in particular, salts with an organic base or an alkali), especially depending on the final pH imposed on the composition.

[0220] Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are, for example, selected from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures.

[0221] According to a preferred method, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and their salts. More particularly, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the alpha hydroxy acid is lactic acid or one of its salts.

[0222] The alpha hydroxy acid(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactant

[0223] The composition may also include at least one surfactant, preferably non-ionic, cationic, or anionic, preferably a non-ionic surfactant.

[0224] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant may be chosen from among the nonionic surfactants known in the prior art, in particular from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, sugar esters, poloxamers, polysorbates and mixtures thereof.

[0225] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters and sugar esters, preferably from fatty acid and polyglycerol esters.

[0226] When present, the non-ionic surfactant(s) is / are present in a content of between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably in a content of between 0.05% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Physiologically acceptable aqueous environment

[0227] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

[0228] Said medium includes in particular water.

[0229] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water.

[0230] The composition preferably comprises at least 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25%, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35%, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight, advantageously at least 80% by weight.

[0231] The composition preferably comprises from 5% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 85%, even more preferably from 20% to 80%, even more preferably from 25% to 75%, even more preferably from 28% to 70%, even more preferably from 30% to 65%, even more preferably from 35% to 60%.

[0232] The aqueous phase may also include at least one organic solvent miscible in water at 25°C.

[0233] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0234] Among alcohols, we can mention alcohols in the form of Ci-Cio, more preferably in Cr C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0235] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide motifs and mixtures thereof.

[0236] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises ethanol.

[0237] The composition may comprise from 0.1% to 25% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 5% by weight.

[0238] Preferably, the weight ratio between the polyol(s), if present, and the chitosan (i.e., polyol(s) : chitosan weight ratio) is between 0.1 and 6. Preferably, it is between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2. Oily phase

[0239] The composition according to the invention preferably also comprises at least one oily phase. When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, this phase preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0240] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0241] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to induce a vortex within the mixture (for example, 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand in a closed bottle for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0242] Examples of usable oils in the composition of the invention include: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0243] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

[0244] - synthetic esters and ethers, particularly of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid comprising 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;

[0245] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as Paraffin oils, volatile or involatile, and their derivatives; branched-chain hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and their mixtures; petrolatum; polydecenes; polyisobutenes; hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parleam® marketed by Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by Amoco, VISEAL 20000 marketed by Synteal, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by Witco, or PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation; branched alkanes alone or in mixtures, such as the mixture of undecane and tridecane marketed under the name Cetiol UT by BASF; or alkanes of vegetable origin, particularly from coconut, such as those marketed under the VEGELIGHT SILK by BIOSYNTHIS, or the C13-15 alkane mixture marketed under the name NEOSSANCE HEMISQUALANE CN by AMYRIS;;

[0246] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; or

[0247] - their mixtures.

[0248] The composition may comprise from 5% to 90% by weight of oil phase, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 7% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 60% by weight, advantageously from 15% to 40% by weight.

[0249] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil phase contains at least one non-volatile oil, the weight content of which is less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, and preferably less than or equal to 7% relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the weight ratio between the non-volatile oil and the crystallizable fat is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.3 and 3, and preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0250] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on keratinous materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0251] The oils can be chosen from the oils listed above.

[0252] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises a volatile oil and / or a volatile alcohol.

[0253] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of this invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0254] The volatile oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon volatile oils, silicone volatile oils, fluorinated volatile oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon volatile oils.

[0255] Volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 petroleum-derived isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permethyls®.

[0256] In particular, the composition according to the invention may include isododecane, cyclopentasiloxane; isohexadecane or a mixture thereof.

[0257] The composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile oil in a content ranging from 1 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, and even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight.

[0258] Volatile alcohol means a C1-C4 alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, n-propanol.

[0259] The composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile alcohol in a content of 0.1% to 25% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 5% by weight. pH of the composition

[0260] The composition according to the invention has a pH less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, preferably less than or equal to 6.3. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.3.

[0261] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base and / or at least one acid. The base and acid according to the invention are known and conventionally used in the cosmetic field.

[0262] The base and / or acid are notably used to adjust the final pH of the composition between 3 and 6.3.

[0263] The acid could, for example, be citric acid.

[0264] The base can be chosen from mineral bases such as, for example, alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide.

[0265] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0266] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one base in an active substance content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 4% by weight.

[0267] The composition according to the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner by a person skilled in the art.

[0268] The expressions "between ... and ...", "ranging from ... to ..." and "varies from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0269] Concrete, but by no means limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0270] EXAMPLES

[0271] Example 1: Preparation of compositions according to invention C2 and C4 and of comparative compositions C1* and C3*

[0272] Compositions according to the invention C2 and C4 and comparative compositions Cl* and C3* are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the following protocol:

[0273] Reverse emulsion

[0274] Under Rayneri deflocculant, add the chitosan by sprinkling it over the water. Add the lactic acid and leave for 5 min at 300 rpm.

[0275] Meanwhile, in the final beaker, mix the isododecane, caprylic / capric triglycerides, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate under a Rayneri deflocculator at 250 rpm.

[0276] Add the crystallizable fat and shake vigorously at 1000 rpm for 5 min.

[0277] Slowly add the aqueous phase to the final beaker while increasing the speed of rotation at 500 rpm.

[0278] Add the dry pigment pastes then the alcohol.

[0279] Direct emulsion Aqueous phase

[0280] - If chitosan is present:

[0281] - Disperse the chitosan in the water under Rayneri-deflocculant.

[0282] - Add the lactic acid and stir for 30 minutes; the speed is adjusted to obtain a minimum vortex.

[0283] - Add the polyglyceryl-10 laurate and the alcohol and shake for 10 min.

[0284] - Add the pigments and stir for 10 minutes.

[0285] - If chitosan is absent:

[0286] - Disperse the polyglyceryl-10 laurate in water under Rayneri-deflocculating, the The speed is adjusted to have a minimum vortex.

[0287] - Add the alcohol.

[0288] - Add the pigments and stir for 10 minutes. Fatty phase

[0289] - Heat the oil phase to 60°C on a magnetic hot plate so as to obtain a homogeneous mixture then cool to room temperature. Emulsification

[0290] - Add the oil phase to the aqueous phase under Rayneri emulsifier and stir for 10 min, the speed is adjusted so as to have a minimum vortex.

[0291] Compositions Cl* and C2 are inverse emulsions, and compositions C3* and C4 are direct emulsions.

[0292] The quantities of each ingredient are expressed as a mass ratio in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0293] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredient Cl* (% w / w) (comparative) C2 (% w / w) (invention) C3* (% w / w) (comparative) C4 (% w / w) (invention) A Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Chitosan 2 2 2 2 Lactic acid [90% w / mL] 1 1 1 1 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate - - 1 1 Ethanol 3 3 3 3 B Caprylic / capric triglycerides 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 Isododecane 32.44 27.44 27.44 22.44 Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate 6 6 - - Tribehenin - 5 - 5 Pigments* 12.23 12.23 12.23 12.23 Chitosan / CGC ratio - 0.4 - 0.4

[0294] *The pigments used in the compositions are a mixture of TiO2 pigments surface-treated with stearoyl glutamate and iron oxides treated with the disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide pair (NAI-White A and NAL BHP-10, NAI-YHP-10 and NAI-R-800HP-10 from Miyoshi Kasei).

[0295] Example 2: Evaluation of compositions according to the invention C2 and C4 and of comparative compositions Cl* and C3*

[0296] The dry, water and oil resistance of Cl*, C2, C3* and C4 of Example 1 were evaluated in vitro according to the following protocols:

[0297] Protocol for spreading compositions into a film

[0298] Each composition is spread on a spreading stand (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) which allows adjustment of its speed and the distance over which it is spread. The stand is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent the substrate from moving. Contrast cards with a black background and an uncoated white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The thickness The spreading thickness is adjustable thanks to the square spreader placed on the support, allowing for leveling when the platform is activated. Each section of the spreader allows for a different spreading thickness, ranging from 25 µm to 200 µm. The chosen thickness is 25 µm to approximate the thickness of the film in vivo. A 960 g weight is added on top of the spreader during the spreading process. The spreading speed is set to 1 lm / sec, or 2.54 cm / s. The films are dried for 24 hours at ambient temperature and humidity (50% RH).

[0299] Protocol for measuring the contrast ratio for objectively assessing coverage

[0300] The color measurement is performed using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. The contact measurement ensures the absence of light pollution.

[0301] Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; Measurement SCI / SCE; Geometry d / 8°.

[0302] The color measurements on the two backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) make it possible to characterize the coverage of a foundation by calculating the "contrast ratio", (CR%) i.e. YFN / YFB x 100, where YFN and YFB are respectively the luminance values ​​measured on black background and white background, the latter being higher the more covering the foundation.

[0303] Dry, wet and oil resistance test protocol

[0304] The water resistance test is carried out by colorimetric measurements on dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion is performed by attaching a strip of moistened (if necessary, with 400 pL of water or oil in the cloth) tissue to the edge of the trowel at 25 µm. A 960 g weight is added on top of the trowel during abrasion. The trowel speed is set at 2.54 cm / s.

[0305] The color measurement before and after abrasion is done with the spectrophotometric method described above.

[0306] To assess resistance to rubbing, the "Contrast Ratio" before rubbing (CR Dry Deposition, %) and after abrasion (CR Rub Dry Deposition, %) are measured. The loss [(CR Rub Dry Deposition - CR Dry Deposition] / CR Dry Deposition]*100, expressed as a percentage, quantifies the loss of coverage and indicates the film's resistance to rubbing: the lower this loss, the more resistant the film is to rubbing.

[0307] Each CR value represents an average of 3 to 6 measurements.

[0308] The results obtained are summarized in the table below.

[0309] [Tables2] Cl* (% w / w) (comparative) C2 (% w / w) (invention) Dry strength % (±%) 47 (7) 67 (13) Water strength % (±%) 39 (10) 75 (12)

[0310] [Tables3] C3* (% w / w) (comparative) C4 (% w / w) (invention) Oil resistance % (±%) 52 (5) 63 (6)

[0311] These results demonstrate that: - Adding a crystallizable oil to a direct emulsion containing 2% chitosan significantly improves oil coverage, and - Adding a crystallizable fat to an inverse emulsion containing 2% chitosan significantly improves coverage when dry and wet. Example 3: Stability / Viscosity Evaluation

[0312] The three compositions in the following table (direct emulsions) were prepared according to the protocol of Example 1

[0313] [Tables4] Phase Ingredient C5* (% w / w) (comparative) C6 (% w / w) (invention) C7* (% w / w) (comparative) A Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Chitosan - 2 4 Lactic acid [90% wt.] 1 2 Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate 1 1 1 Ethanol 3 3 3 B Caprylic / capric triglycerides 1.9 2.1 2.3 Isododecane 14.10 15.90 17.70 Tribehenin 4 2 - C Pigments* 12.23 12.23 12.23 Chitosan / CGC ratio - 1 - Formulation Phase Dephase Homogeneous Homogeneous Texture Not relevant Slightly viscous 7.4 Pa.s Very thick 174 Pa.s

[0314] Viscosity evaluation protocol

[0315] Viscosity measurement is performed on a TA instrument DHR2 rheometer using a sandblasted static and a sandblasted planar moving part for an air gap of 1 mm and an experimental temperature of 25°C. Viscosity results in Pa·s are taken in a comparable and systematic manner for a shear of 0.1 s⁻¹.

[0316] In these tests with total mass iso-content between crystallizable fats and / or chitosan, it was observed that: - The C5* composition, containing only crystallizable fats, dephases instantly. - Composition C7*, containing only chitosan, increases in viscosity uncontrollably, and - Only composition C6 according to the invention containing both a crystallizable fat and chitosan is both formulable, and of controlled and acceptable viscosity.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular for makeup and / or skin care and / or lip care and / or hair care, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) from 0.01 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of native chitosan, which is of fungal origin and which does not contain any chemical modification, having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 g / mol, b) at least one crystallizable fat, which is selected from crystallizable fats of animal or vegetable origin, esters of glycerol and C12-C24 fatty acids possibly substituted with a hydroxy group and copolymers of sorbitol and C6-C16 difatty acid esterified with C12-C24 fatty acids; c) at least one pigment colouring material having a content of 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and said cosmetic composition has a pH less than or equal to 6.

5.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the native chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa, preferably the native chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein native chitosan has a degree of chitosan acetylation less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the native chitosan is derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes and / or Agaricus bisporus, preferably the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein native chitosan is present in an amount from 0.01% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the crystallizable fat is selected from glycerol behenic acid triester, glycerol hydroxystearic acid triester, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid and copolymers of sorbitol and sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, preferably selected from glycerol behenic acid triester, glycerol hydroxystearic acid triester, and sunflower wax.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the crystallizable fat is present in a content of between 0.01% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 12% by weight, preferably between 1% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 8% by weight, advantageously between 1.5% and 7% by weight.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between chitosan and crystallizable fat is 0.00025 and 300, preferably between 0.001 and 100, preferably between 0.01 and 30, preferably between 0.05 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 4, preferably between 0.1 and 2, preferably between 0.5 and 2, advantageously between 0.5 and 1.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment colouring material is a mineral pigment selected from zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder, mother-of-pearl, monochromatic pigments.

10. Composition any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment colouring material is an organic pigment selected from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

11. Composition any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment colouring material is selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof, preferably the pigment colouring material is selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pigment coloring matter is present in a content of 6% to 20% by weight, preferably 8% to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, of silicone.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, being substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tack-forming silicone polymer; preferably the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight of silicone other than a film-forming or tack-forming silicone polymer, preferably the composition is totally free of silicone other than a film-forming or tack-forming silicone polymer, preferably the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone, advantageously the composition is totally free of silicone.

15. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid, preferably selected from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2- hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; gluconic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; ribonic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the physiologically acceptable aqueous medium comprises at least 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25%, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight; preferably from 5% to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 85%, even more preferably from 20% to 80%, even more preferably from 25% to 75%, even more preferably from 28% to 70%, even more preferably from 30% to 65%, even more preferably from 35% to 60%;and possibly at least one water-miscible organic solvent at 25°C chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof, preferably the weight ratio between the polyol(s), if present, and chitosan is between 0.1 and 6, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, preferably between 0.5 and 2.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one surfactant, preferably a non-ionic surfactant, preferably in a weight content of between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably in a weight content of between 0.05% and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil, preferably in a weight content of 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 20% or less, preferably 15% or less, preferably 10% or less, and preferably 7% or less by weight of the total composition, and / or having a weight ratio of non-volatile oil to crystallizable fat between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.3 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and

20. X'. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a volatile oil and / or a volatile alcohol.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, having a pH less than or equal to 6.3, preferably between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.

3.

22. Cosmetic process for makeup and / or skin care and / or lip care and / or hair care, wherein the composition according to one of the preceding claims is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or hair.