Composition comprising hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives, a (bi)carbonate, a fatty acid and a colorant.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023006946
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-06-30
- Publication Date
- 2025-01-03
- Estimated Expiration
- 2043-06-30
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Composition comprising hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives, a (bi)carbonate, a fatty acid and a colorant.
[0001] The invention relates to a composition comprising hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives, at least one (bi)carbonate, at least one fatty acid and at least one colorant.
[0002] The invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair, using this composition.
[0003] The invention finally relates to the use of such a composition for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0004] For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their gray hair.
[0005] In the field of coloring hair keratin fibers, in particular human hair, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers using different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings.
[0006] There are basically three types of hair coloring process:
[0007] a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing about a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate into the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;
[0008] b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the oxidative condensation process and is resistant to 4 or 5 shampoos; consists of dyeing keratin fibers with dyeing compositions containing direct dyes;
[0009] c) temporary coloring which results in a change in the natural color of the hair which lasts from one shampoo to the next and which serves to enhance or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “make-up” process.
[0010] It is thus known to dye keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colorations with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds through a process of oxidative condensation.
[0011] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules used in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained.
[0012] However, the implementation of these dye compositions can present a certain number of drawbacks.
[0013] Indeed, after application to keratin fibers, the tinctorial power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or even weak, and lead to a restricted range of colors.
[0014] The colorations may also not be sufficiently tenacious against external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration and may also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in coloration is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.
[0015] Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which is capable of leading to good color buildup, intensity and chromaticity, while having low selectivity and good tenacity, in particular good persistence to shampooing, and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, even after a storage period, while having good usage qualities and retaining good sensory performance, in particular in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, smoothing, and disentangling of keratin fibers such as hair.
[0016] These and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a composition comprising: - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one (bi)carbonate; - at least one fatty acid; - at least one colorant.
[0017] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0018] The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to produce powerful, intense and non-selective chromatic colorations, i.e. colorations which are homogeneous along the fiber.
[0019] The composition according to the invention has improved persistence to shampoos, as well as good stability over time, in particular low evolution, or even no change in its viscosity during storage.
[0020] The composition according to the invention has good qualities of use, in particular in terms of texture, ease of application, adhesion to the hair, and lengthening.
[0021] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to achieve good cosmeticity, particularly in terms of shine, softness, suppleness, a more natural feel, while preserving the integrity of the fiber.
[0022] The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to provide cosmetic compositions for keratin fibers which do not have a strong ammonia odor.
[0023] The invention also relates to a process for coloring hair using the composition of the invention.
[0024] The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0025] By “chemical oxidizing agent” according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen in the air.
[0026] Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.
[0027] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.
[0028] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”. Hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives
[0029] The composition according to the invention comprises hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives.
[0030] In the context of the present invention, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” covers in particular the basic unit of hyaluronic acid of formula:
[0031] [Chem.l]
[0032] Hyaluronic acid belongs to the family of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs).
[0033] GAGs are linear chains composed of the repetition of a basic diholoside always containing a hexosamine (glucosamine or galactosamine) and another ose (glucuronic acid, iduronic acid or galactose). Glucosamine is either N- sulfated, or N-acetylated. In contrast, galactosamine is always N-acetylated. In addition, there may be O-linked sulfates on hexosamine, uronic acid, and galactose.
[0034] It is a polysaccharide of disaccharides themselves composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.
[0035] According to a particular embodiment, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" includes, within the scope of the present invention, the linear polymer comprising the polymeric unit described above, in a sequence by alternating glycosidic bonds [3(1,4) and [3(1,3), having a molecular weight (MW) which can vary between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends largely on the source of obtaining the hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation methods.
[0036] Thus, the term “hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives” includes all of the fractions or subunits of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular included in the molecular weight range recalled above.
[0037] As hyaluronic acid derivatives, mention may in particular be made of hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid hydrolysates, quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives and their salts and acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives and their mixtures.
[0038] As hyaluronic acid salts, mention may in particular be made of potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate.
[0039] By quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives is meant cationic hyaluronic acid comprising at least one quaternary ammonium and / or one of its salts.
[0040] As a quaternized hyaluronic acid derivative, the compound with the INCI name hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate will preferably be used.
[0041] As acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives, mention may in particular be made of the compound with the INCI name Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
[0042] Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives is preferably chosen from salts of hyaluronic acid and their mixtures, and more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
[0043] Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives may be present in the composition according to the present invention in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.008 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.02 to 0.1% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] According to a particular embodiment, the total content of hyaluronic acid salts, preferably sodium hyaluronate, varies from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.008 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.02 to 0.1% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition. (Bicarbonate
[0045] The composition according to the invention comprises one (or more) compound(s) chosen from (bi)carbonates.
[0046] By “(bi)carbonate” we mean carbonate, carbonate-generating system, bicarbonate, bicarbonate-generating system and mixtures thereof.
[0047] By "carbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates carbonate in situ such as for example carbon dioxide in water or percarbonate in water.
[0048] By "bicarbonate generating system" is meant a system which generates bicarbonate in situ such as for example from carbon dioxide in water or by buffering a carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.
[0049] The (bi)carbonate(s) is / are preferably chosen from:
[0050] - the carbonate(s), preferably chosen from:
[0051] a) carbonates of alkali metal (Met2+, CO32), alkaline earth metal (Met'2+, CO32), ammonium NH4+ or phosphonium (R”4P+)2,CO32 with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal and Met representing an alkali metal, and R”, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as hydroxyethyl; and mixtures thereof;
[0052] - the bicarbonate(s), preferably chosen:
[0053] b) compounds of the following formulas: • R'+, HCO3 with R' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, a ammonium group NH4+ or a phosphonium group R”4P+- where R”, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as hydroxyethyl- and when R' represents a hydrogen atom the hydrogen carbonate is then called dihydrogen carbonate (CO2, H2O); and • Met'2+ (HCO3 )2 with Met' representing an alkaline earth metal;
[0054] and mixtures thereof.
[0055] More particularly, the (bi)carbonate(s) is / are chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium (bi)carbonates; preferentially alkali metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, more preferentially alkali metal bicarbonates, ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.
[0056] By way of example, they are chosen from Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof. Preferably the (bi)carbonate(s) is / are chosen from Na (bi)carbonate, K (bi)carbonate, ammonium (bi)carbonates and mixtures thereof, preferably Na bicarbonate, bi K carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and their mixtures, better still ammonium bicarbonate.
[0057] According to one embodiment, the compound(s) are chosen from bicarbonates, bicarbonate-generating systems and their mixtures, preferably from bicarbonates.
[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, the (bi)carbonate(s) is ammonium bicarbonate.
[0059] These bicarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, Badoit water which are known for their sodium bicarbonate or sodium bicarbonate content [144-55-8] = NaHCO3, and calcium bicarbonate = Ca(HCO3)2.
[0060] The (bi)carbonate(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.4% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, even better still from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, the (bi)carbonate is ammonium bicarbonate which may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.4% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight, better still from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid
[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty acids.
[0063] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid, in particular an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0064] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular saturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0065] More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of structure RC(O)OH in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular saturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better still from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in the composition are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0067] The fatty acids may be chosen from solid fatty acids, fatty acids liquids and their mixtures.
[0068] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0069] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, arachydic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof, better still from palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0070] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “liquid fatty acid” means a fatty acid having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0071] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention may be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid and their mixtures, preferably oleic acid.
[0072] Preferably, the fatty acid(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty acids, preferably chosen from palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0074] Preferably, the fatty acid(s) are chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0075] The fatty acid(s), preferably solid, are generally present in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5%, preferentially from 0.1 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Dye
[0076] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and their mixtures.
[0077] Preferably, the composition comprises one (or more) oxidation dye(s).
[0078] The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.
[0079] Oxidation base
[0080] The oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or salt solvates.
[0081] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0082] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0083] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts.
[0084] Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned, there are for example para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N ,N-diethy 1- 3 -methylaniline, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-b-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b,g-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(b-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and , 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.
[0085] Among the above-mentioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-b-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-b-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.
[0086] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(b-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts.
[0087] Among the para-aminophenols which are mentioned, there are for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(b-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and the corresponding addition salts with an acid.
[0088] Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts.
[0089] Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.
[0090] Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts.
[0091] Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-b-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine;2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts. ;
[0092] More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from 3-aminopyrazolo-[1,5-a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on carbon atom 2 by:
[0093] a) a (di)(Ci-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group;
[0094] b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or
[0095] c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a b-hydroxyalkoxy group and the corresponding addition salts.
[0096] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0097] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FRA-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(b-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(b-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methyl-pyrazole and the corresponding addition salts. 4,5-diamino-l-(b-methoxyethyl)pyrazole can also be used.
[0098] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt.
[0099] Pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one. ,
[0100] 2,3-Diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt will preferably be used.
[0101] 4,5-Diamino-1-(b-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt will preferably be used as heterocyclic bases.
[0102] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.
[0103] When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably, the oxidation base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0104] Oxidation coupler
[0105] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those traditionally used in the coloring of keratin fibers.
[0106] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
[0107] Among these couplers, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts.
[0108] Examples that may be mentioned include 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-benzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(B-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(B-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1B-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, lN-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, lH-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, salts corresponding addition reactions with an acid and the corresponding mixtures.
[0109] In general, the addition salts of the couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0110] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0111] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0112] When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0113] When they are present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0114] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, chosen from anionic and non-ionic species, preferably cationic or non-ionic species, either as sole dyes or in addition to the oxidation dye(s).
[0115] Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.
[0116] When they are present, the direct dye(s) represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0117] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition and, similarly, the ready-to-use composition contains at least one colorant and preferably at least one oxidation colorant as defined above. Surfactants other than fatty acids
[0118] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one (or more) surfactant(s) other than fatty acids.
[0119] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one (or more) surfactant(s) other than fatty acids.
[0120] These can be chosen from anionic surfactants other than fatty acids, non-ionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and / or their mixtures.
[0121] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactants other than fatty acids are non-ionic surfactants.
[0122] As examples of non-ionic surfactants, the following non-ionic surfactants may be mentioned: - oxyalkylenated alkyl(C8-C24)phenols; - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, preferably oxyalkylenated, they preferably comprise one or two fatty chains; - C8 to C30 fatty acid amides, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated; - esters of fatty acids and sucrose, - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters, - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not; - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates; - N-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and N-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine derivatives; - aldobionamides; - amine oxides; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicones; - and their mixtures.
[0123] The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated, oxypropylenated units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.
[0124] The number of moles of ethylene and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100; better still from 2 to 50, even better still from 2 to 40; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50, even better still from 1 to 10.
[0125] As an example of glycerolated non-ionic surfactants, C8 to C40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, comprising from 1 to 50 moles of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, are preferably used.
[0126] As examples of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLY-GLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 moles of glycerol.
[0127] Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C8 to C10 alcohol with one mole of glycerol, the C10 to C12 alcohol with one mole of glycerol and the C12 alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol.
[0128] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - C8 to C40 alcohols, preferably C10-C32, more preferably C12-C28, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated or glycerolated, preferably oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated; - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units; - and their mixture.
[0129] According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactants other than fatty acids are chosen from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain.
[0130] Preferably, the surfactant(s) other than fatty acids represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 at 10% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 6% by weight, even better from 1 to 5% relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty substances other than fatty acids
[0131] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids.
[0132] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids.
[0133] By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as for example chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), vaseline oil or decamethyl-cyclopentasiloxane.
[0134] The fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0135] Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.
[0136] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0137] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. Liquid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa) and solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0138] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).
[0139] More particularly, the liquid fatty body(ies) may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acid and / or alcohol fats other than triglycerides and their mixtures.
[0140] It is recalled that the alcohols and fatty esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0141] By way of example, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may be chosen from C6 to C16 liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and preferably saturated. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0142] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0143] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, we may cite mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 marketed by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC.
[0144] As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
[0145] The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stea-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0146] The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are more particularly particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned are octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0147] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons in the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0148] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid is branched.
[0149] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0150] It is also possible to use esters of C4 to C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols.
[0151] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, dioctanoate propylene glycol; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisocyanate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0152] The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described above.
[0153] Suitable sugars that may be mentioned include, for example, sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkylated ones, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.
[0154] The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0155] The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0156] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed esters oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate.
[0157] More particularly, mono- and di-esters are used, and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0158] An example of this is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0159] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.
[0160] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances other than fatty acids are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and their mixtures, more preferably from hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms.
[0161] Preferably, the liquid fatty body(ies) other than fatty acids are chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, better still the mixtures with the INCI name C15-C19 Alkane.
[0162] The solid fatty bodies preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.
[0163] The solid fatty body(ies) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0164] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0165] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); ara-chidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0166] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0167] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0168] Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0169] The solid fatty bodies are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0170] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty body(ies) other than the fatty acids is (or are) chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, waxes and their mixtures, more preferably among solid fatty alcohols, mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, mineral oil, better still among cetearyl alcohol, C15-19 Alkane (INCI Name), mineral oil and their mixtures, better still cetearyl alcohol, mineral oil and their mixtures.
[0171] The total content of the fatty body(ies) other than fatty acids preferably varies from 5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, and better still from 8 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] In a particular embodiment, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty bodies other than fatty acids, the total content of the solid fatty body(ies) other than fatty acids preferably varies from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 25% by weight, and better still from 7 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, the total content of the hydrocarbon(s) comprising more than 6 carbon atoms preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 4% relative to the total weight of the composition. Sequestrants
[0174] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.
[0175] The definition of a “sequestering agent” (or “chelating agent”) is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, i.e. it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (formation of a cycle including the metal ion).
[0176] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron donor atoms which allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0177] In the context of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.
[0178] The salts are in particular salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0179] As examples of chelating agents based on carboxylic acids, mention may be made of: composés suivants: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine di-succinic acid (EDDS) et trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate tel que l’Octaquest E30 de OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), et ses sels tels que disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), gly-cinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide- N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), le N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), le N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid et le glyceryl imino diacetic acid (tels que décrits dans les documents EP-A-317,542 et EP-A-399,133), l’iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid et l’aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (tels que décrits dans EP-A-516,102), les beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid,aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) chelators (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel.
[0180] Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
[0181] As examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelators, the following compounds may be mentioned: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexa-metaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0182] According to one embodiment, the sequestering agent(s) useful according to the invention are phosphorus-containing sequestering agents, i.e. sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0183] According to the present invention, the sequestering agents are preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
[0184] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
[0185] Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts.
[0186] When the composition comprises one or more sequestrants, the total content of the sequestrant(s) preferably varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional alkaline agent
[0187] The composition according to the invention may comprise one (or more) alkaline agent(s) other than (bi)carbonates.
[0188] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) other than the (bi)carbonates may be chosen from organic alkaline agents and inorganic alkaline agents.
[0189] Preferably, the organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen from organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and more preferably less than 10, even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function. In addition, the organic amines do not comprise a fatty, alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
[0190] The organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, in particular mono-, di- or tri-hydroxy(Cl-C6)alkylamines such as 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, monoethanolamine, oxyethyleneated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids, polyamines and mixtures thereof.
[0191] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched alkyl groups, C1 to C8, carrying one or more hydroxy radicals.
[0192] Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1 to C4.
[0193] Among such compounds, mention may be made of monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.
[0194] More particularly, the amino acids which can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid functions, sul- fonic, phosphonic or phosphoric. Amino acids can be found in neutral or ionic form.
[0195] As amino acids which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
[0196] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a cycle or in a ureido function.
[0197] The organic amine may also be chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole.
[0198] The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
[0199] Among the inorganic alkaline agents which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of ammonium hydroxide (also called aqueous ammonia), mineral hydroxides, silicates, metasilicates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates, and in particular silicates or metasilicates of alkali metals, in particular sodium silicate and sodium metasilicate.
[0200] Among the mineral hydroxides, sodium hydroxide is preferred.
[0201] Preferably, the alkaline agent(s) other than (bi)carbonates is (or are) chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates and metasilicates, mineral hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.
[0202] Even more preferably, the alkaline agent different from (bi)carbonates is ammonium hydroxide.
[0203] Advantageously, the total content of the alkaline agent(s) other than (bi)carbonates ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Glycoprotein
[0204] The composition according to the invention may comprise one (or more) glycoprotein(s).
[0205] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a glycoprotein.
[0206] By "glycoprotein" is meant one or more oligosaccharides covalently linked to a polypeptide chain by the -OH function of the Serine and Threonine (O-linked) or by the amide function of an Asparagine residue (N-linked).
[0207] By “oligosaccharides” we mean short polymers consisting of several monosaccharide units, identical or different, linked together by glycosidic bonds.
[0208] Preferably, the glycoproteins of the invention comprise from 1 to 70% by weight of oligosaccharides, more preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the glycoprotein.
[0209] According to a preferred embodiment, the glycoprotein(s) according to the invention is (or are) produced from a microorganism, more preferably extracted from a bacterium, even more preferably from a gram-negative bacterium.
[0210] Preferably, the glycoprotein according to the invention is obtained by culturing the bacterial strain Pseudoalteromonas Antarctica NF3.
[0211] For example, we can cite the compound known under the INCI name Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, sold under the trade name ANTARCTICINE® by the company Lipotec.
[0212] When the composition comprises one or more glycoprotein(s), the total content of the glycoprotein(s) preferably varies from 0.001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0213] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic ether(s) of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of the following formula (i):
[0214] R-(O-Alk)n-OR' (I),
[0215] in which: R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C10-C30 hydrocarbon radical, R' denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C10-C30 hydrocarbon radical which may be substituted by a hydroxyl radical, said hydroxyl radical preferably being located in the beta position of the ether function and n is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive Alk represents a (C1-C6) alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear such as ethylene or propylene, preferably ethylene.
[0216] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the Alk radical of formula (i) represents a group -CH2-CH2-
[0217] More particularly, the non-ionic ether of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol of formula (I) is such that R and R', independently of one another, denote a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated; in C12-C20, preferably in C14-C18; R' possibly being substituted by at least one of the following: minus one hydroxyl radical, said hydroxyl radical preferably being located in the beta position of the ether function and n denotes an integer greater than or equal to 20, ranging for example from 20 to 100, preferably from 40 to 80.
[0218] Preferably R and R' denote an alkyl radical.
[0219] According to a more preferred embodiment, the non-ionic polyoxyalkylene fatty alcohol ether of formula (I) is such that: R denotes an alkyl radical, preferably linear, in C16-C18, and R' denotes an alkyl radical, preferably linear, in C14 substituted by an OH group, said hydroxyl radical being preferably located in the beta position of the ether function and n is equal to 60.
[0220] Preferably the non-ionic compound of formula (I) is of the following formula ^ŒHjCH.WCHjCHOH ■ i. : xfls 4 ।
[0221] with R being a cetyl or stearyl group with n = 60.
[0222] Such a compound is for example named in the CTFA Dictionary under the name CETEARETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL or HYDROGENATED TALLOWETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL. A CETEARETH 60 MYRISTYL GLYCOL is for example sold by the company AKZO under the trade name ELFACOS GT 282 S.
[0223] When it(they) is(are) present, preferably, the non-ionic ether(s) of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol (I) is(are) present in a content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.075 to 2% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0224] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
[0225] - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one (bi)carbonate; - at least one fatty acid; - at least one colorant; - at least one surfactant other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain. - at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and their mixtures. Solvents
[0226] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0227] As organic solvent, examples that may be mentioned are linear or branched C2 to C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, propanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0228] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferably chosen from propylene glycol, glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and their mixtures.
[0229] The organic solvent(s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even better still from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0230] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is preferably an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0231] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds previously described and among which may be mentioned cationic, anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or their mixtures, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, anti-oxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes.
[0232] The above additives may generally be present in an amount of between 0 and 20% by weight for each of them, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.
[0233] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents.
[0234] The composition may be intended to be mixed with an oxidizing composition.
[0235] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a cationic polymer.
[0236] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more chemical oxidants as described below. According to this embodiment, the composition is a ready-to-use composition.
[0237] Preferably, the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 8 and 11, preferably between 9 and 10.5.
[0238] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents. According to this embodiment, the composition is preferably intended to be mixed with one or more chemical oxidizing agent(s).
[0239] Preferably, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 8 and 13, preferably between 9 and 12.
[0240] According to another particular embodiment, the pH of the composition not containing a chemical oxidizing agent is between 7 and 10 and the pH of the ready-to-use composition is between 6 and 9. Process
[0241] The present invention also relates to a process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibers of an effective amount of a composition as defined above, in the presence of an oxidizing agent.
[0242] The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergo washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
[0243] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition described above which does not comprise a chemical oxidizing agent with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.
[0244] According to this embodiment, at the time of use, the composition according to the invention is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions: a composition comprising: - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; - at least one (bi)carbonate; - at least one fatty acid; - at least one dye, preferably at least one oxidation dye and an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0245] In a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: (a) a composition comprising: - at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; -at least one (bi)carbonate; - at least one fatty acid; - at least one colorant, preferably at least one oxidation colorant; - at least one surfactant other than fatty acids; - at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids; b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
[0246] More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates and their mixtures. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide.
[0247] The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
[0248] The oxidizing composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids.
[0249] In addition, the oxidizing composition may comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.
[0250] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7, preferably ranging from 1.5 to 4.
[0251] Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition. Kit
[0252] Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the coloring composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.
[0253] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by appropriate application means, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.
[0254] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.
[0255] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for coloring keratin fibers, and in particular hair.
[0256] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples
[0257] In the examples which follow, all the quantities are indicated as a percentage by mass of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions
[0258] The coloring compositions A, B and C were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active material):
[0259] Coloring compositions
[0260] [Tables 1] INCI NAME A (invention) B (comparative) C (comparative) AMMONIUM BICARBONATE 2.50 2.50 2.50 RESORCINOL 0.40 0.40 0.40 AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 2.88 2.88 2.88 NON-IONIC SURFACTANT 4.45 4.45 4.45 ANTIOXIDANT 0.50 0.50 0.50 SOLVENT 2.00 2.00 2.00 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.24 0.24 0.24 FATTY ACID(S)* 0.3 - 0.3 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.04 0.04 0.04 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHAN OL HCL 0.004 0.004 0.004 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16.00 16.00 16.00 PRESERVATIVE 1.00 1.00 1.00 MINERAL OIL 2.00 2.00 2.00 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.05 0.05 - TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE 0.44 0.44 0.44 WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 [0261 ] * INCI Name: STEARIC ACID
[0262] At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions A, B and C is mixed with 1 time V2 its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to a lock of 90% permed white (BP) and natural white (BN) hair at a rate of 5g of mixture / g of hair.
[0263] After 35 minutes of exposure at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried. Results
[0264] Colorimetric measurements were performed using a KONICA MINOLTA-3600 spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.
[0265] Selectivity
[0266] Color selectivity is the variation in color between natural hair (NH) and permed hair (PH). Natural hair is representative of the nature of the hair at the root while permed hair is representative of the nature of the hair at the tip. Selectivity allows the homogeneity of color to be assessed throughout the hair fiber.
[0267] Selectivity is measured by:
[0268] AE, which is the color variation between natural hair and permanent hair, is obtained from the formula: . toe=
[0269] Where L* represents the intensity a* and b*, the chromaticity of natural colored hair and Lo* represents the intensity and a0* and b0* the chromaticity of permed colored hair. The lower the value of AE, the lower the selectivity and the more uniform the coloring along the hair.
[0270] [Tables2] Hair type L* a* b* AE A + O (invention) BN 28.4 4.1 10.0 0.8 BP 27.7 3.7 9.9 B + O (comparative) BN 31.7 3.2 9.9 4.1 BP 27.7 3.1 9.0 C + O (comparative) BN 29.0 3.5 9.5 3.1 BP 25.9 3.6 8.8
[0271] The locks of hair treated with the A+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B+O and C+O mixtures. In other words, the A+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain locks of hair having better selectivity compared to those treated with the comparative B+O and C+O mixtures and consequently improved color homogeneity from the root to the tip of the hair.
[0272] Tenacity
[0273] The persistence of the color is evaluated in the same way. This is the difference in color AE (according to the formula above) between the colored strands before shampooing, then after having undergone 5 shampoos. The lower the AE value, the more the color persists after shampooing.
[0274] [Tables3] Number of shampoos L* a* b* AE A + O (invention) 0 24.8 4.4 8.0 0.9 5 24.9 4.7 8.8 B + O (comparative) 0 24.4 4.4 9.4 3.6 5 28.0 4.5 9.7 C + O (comparative) 0 24.4 4.1 7.5 5.1 5 27.7 5.6 11.1
[0275] The locks of hair treated with the A+O mixture according to the invention have a much lower AE value than those treated with the comparative B+O and C+O mixtures.
[0276] In other words, the A+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous colored coating on the hair having improved persistence to shampoos compared to those treated with the comparative B+O and C+O mixtures.
[0277] Furthermore, the A+O mixture according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good sensory performances.
Claims
Claims
1. Composition comprising: a) at least one compound chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures; b) at least one (bi)carbonate; c) at least one fatty acid; d) at least one colorant.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the compound(s) chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures is (or are) chosen from hyaluronic acid salts, hyaluronic acid hydrolysates, quaternized hyaluronic acid derivatives and their salts and acetylated hyaluronic acid derivatives and their mixtures, preferably chosen from hyaluronic acid salts and their mixtures, more preferably sodium hyaluronate.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the compound(s) chosen from hyaluronic acid and / or one of its derivatives and their mixtures ranges from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.003 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.008 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, even better still from 0.02 to 0.1% relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the (bi)carbonate(s) is (or are) chosen from alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium (bi)carbonates, preferably alkali metal (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and their mixtures, more preferably chosen from Na, K, Mg, Ca (bi)carbonates, ammonium (bi)carbonates and their mixtures, better still chosen from Na (bi)carbonate, K (bi)carbonate, ammonium (bi)carbonates and their mixtures, preferentially Na bicarbonate, K bicarbonate, ammonium bicarbonate and their mixtures, better still ammonium bicarbonate.
5. Composition according to any one of the claims in which the total content of the (bi)carbonate(s) ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.4% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% at 4% by weight, better still from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compound(s) chosen from fatty acids is (or are) chosen from fatty acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, even more preferably chosen from palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof, better still from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the total content of the compound(s) chosen from fatty acids ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, better still from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the dye(s) is (or are) chosen from oxidation dyes, direct dyes and their mixtures, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes, preferentially from oxidation bases optionally associated with one or more couplers.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant other than fatty acids, the surfactant(s) other than fatty acids preferably being chosen from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably chosen from C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylene or oxypropylenated, comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene or propylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles and comprising at least one C8-C20 alkyl chain.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, waxes and their mixtures, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols, mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms. carbon, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms, mineral oil, and mixtures thereof, better still among cetearyl alcohol, C15-19 Alkane (INCI Name), mineral oil and mixtures thereof, better still cetearyl alcohol, mineral oil and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one sequestering agent, preferably chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures, more preferably, from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and their mixtures.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one alkaline agent other than (bi)carbonates, chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates and metasilicates, mineral hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof, better still from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof.
13. A composition according to any preceding claim, not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent.
14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
15. Process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to the keratin fibers of the composition as defined according to claim 14.
16. A method according to claim 15 comprising applying to the fibers of the mixture: a) a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13. b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
17. Multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents chemicals, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
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