Cosmetic composition with a specific vegetable-derived coloring ingredient and specific vegetable-derived fats and a specific isoalkane.

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprising (a) one or more organic colorants of plant origin, (b) one or more liquid ingredients at room temperature and atmospheric pressure based on vegetable triglycerides, possibly hydrogenated, the plants corresponding to ingredients (a) and (b) belonging to dicotyledonous angiosperms, (c) one or more isoalkanes comprising 10 to 12 carbon atoms, and (d) one or more vegetable waxes based on mono- and / or diesters, possibly hydrogenated. A makeup process employing this composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition with a particular coloring ingredient of plant origin and particular fatty substances of plant origin and particular isoalkane.

[0001] In the field of cosmetics and in particular makeup, it is known to use colored pigments of mineral origin or of synthetic organic origin either alone or in combination, dispersed in powder formulas or in liquid, cream or solid formulas, containing in particular fatty substances. However, the pigments mentioned above, particularly synthetic organic pigments, can pose safety concerns. Furthermore, these pigments are not derived from renewable sources and their carbon footprint is not favorable. There is therefore a need to search for substitutes for these synthetic organic pigments. It has therefore been proposed to use organic colored pigments of natural animal origin such as cochineal carmine, which is widely used in cosmetic makeup products, but the animal origin of this product can also put off the user. Organic colored pigments of plant origin have therefore been proposed to replace existing colored pigments such as madder extract (Rubia Tinctorum extract) in commercial products. Chinese patent applications CN109260036 by GONG CHENGFENG and CN106667874 by PENG ZHICHENG also propose the use of, among other things, anthocyanins, lutein, red tomato pigment on the one hand and red dragon fruit pigment (pitaya) on the other hand. But most often these organic colored pigments of plant origin are less effective than mineral or synthetic organic pigments, particularly in the area of ​​coverage of the cosmetic product on its application substrate. In the applicant's application FR3103108 (Al), cosmetic compositions for making up the skin or lips or eyelashes or nails were proposed, comprising one or more coloring extracts of plant origin (a) and one or more water-insoluble, non-silicon lamellar solid compounds (b), the latter preferably being chosen from guanine, zinc oxide, divalent metal stearates and mixtures thereof. However, the compositions described do not necessarily spread over their substrate in a sufficiently homogeneous manner and do not lead to sufficiently intense and long-lasting coloring makeups.

[0002] Document FR2959932 (Al) from the company L'OREAL describes cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or care of keratin fibers comprising at least: a) an oily phase formed at least: - of isododecane, and - of at least 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil of volatility lower than that of isododecane, b) at least 9% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one liposoluble film-forming polymer, and c) a particulate phase containing at least one compound chosen from pigments, nacres, fillers and waxes. Among the pigments are mentioned fat-soluble plant colorants such as annatto, whose coloring principle is a carotenoid, bixin, and [Scarotene, which is also a carotenoid. Oils with lower volatility than isododecane include hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and fluorinated oils. Hydrocarbon oils include vegetable oils and also synthetic oils, including esters. A list of non-volatile vegetable oils of all origins (mono and dicotyledons) is given on page 5. Regarding waxes, it is indicated that these can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. The mascara pictured contains isododecane, candelilla wax and camauba wax but no vegetable oil and the pigment used is mineral (black iron oxide). Document FR2992203 (Al) from the company L'OREAL describes a fluid cosmetic composition for skin makeup comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least one continuous oily phase, (ii) at least one sebum pump filler and powdery coloring materials, (iii) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, and (iv) at least one lipophilic gelling agent, preferably particulate, said particulate gelling agent being furthermore able to be a sebum pump, characterized in that the composition comprises a dry extract content greater than or equal to 15%, in particular greater than or equal to 20%. Powdered coloring materials are chosen from pigments, pearlescent pigments, and their mixtures. Many mineral pigments are cited. Among the usable organic pigments are carbon black, D & C type pigments without further details, lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum, or even diketo pyrrolopyrroles (DPP). Carbon black is not an organic plant pigment. This is also the case for cochineal carmine of animal origin. As for D & C pigments, they are mostly synthetic organic pigments. Pearlescent materials may be, among other products, mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials, without the latter being specified. The only coloring materials illustrated in the examples are coated iron oxides. The continuous oily phase comprises oils which may be volatile or non-volatile. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. It is indicated that the compositions advantageously further comprise at least one fast volatile oil with, among several compounds cited, isododecane. They may also comprise a dry oil and additional non-volatile oils with, among the latter, in a very long list, mention of vegetable oils. A list of non-volatile vegetable oils of all origins (mono and dicotyledons) is indicated on page 24. Vegetable waxes are only mentioned as one of the possibilities of lipophilic gelling agents among others. The examples only illustrate compositions without vegetable oils or waxes and containing only red iron oxide as a coloring agent. Document JP2003040738 (A) of the company KANEBO describes an oil-based cosmetic composition characterized by containing each of the following components (A) to (D). (A) 15-45% by mass of perfluoroalkyl / polyalkylsiloxysilicate (B) 3-12% by mass of silicone gum (C) 3-18% by mass of colorant(s) and (D) 30-70% by mass of isododecane. The preferred colorants listed include titanium oxide, titanium mica, barium sulfate plate, and organic colorants. The first three compounds are inorganic (the first and third are not colored pigments but white pigments). The only organic colorants listed (Red No. 104 Aluminum Lake, Red No. 102 Aluminum Lake, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, Yellow No. 4 Aluminum Lake, Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, Yellow No. 203 Barium Lake) are synthetic colorants. The colorant illustrated is a mixture of Red No. 104 aluminum lake, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, ultramarine blue, N-lauroyl-L-lysine treated titanium oxide, titanium mica. None of these compounds are vegetable colorants. Optional additives include oils. Among the many compounds listed are several vegetable oils of various botanical origins, including monocotyledonous plants and carnauba wax. The sample compositions do not contain vegetable oil or vegetable wax. Document CN114469785 (A) of GUANGDONG CRATAEHNCHENG ZHENGCHENG describes a long-lasting moisturizing lipstick characterized by the fact that that it comprises a solvent, a film-forming agent, an emollient, a thickener, a filler, an antioxidant, a moisturizing agent and a colorant; the solvent comprises isododecane representing 10-20% by weight of the lipstick; the film-forming agent comprises a hydrogenated copolymer (styrene / methylstyrene / indene) representing 6 to 15% by weight of the lipstick; the emollient comprises a mixed ester of C10-30 cholesteryl acid / lanosterol representing 1 to 3% by weight of the lipstick and white pond flower seed oil representing 0.5-2% by weight of the lipstick; the filler comprises a percentage of polymethylsilsesquioxane of 1 to 3%. For colorants, only the name toner is mentioned without further details. The only waxes mentioned are synthetic waxes and microcrystalline wax, so no mention of vegetable waxes. Document CN112386530 (A) of YINGFEI HANGZHOU COSMETICS CO LTD discloses a waterproof eyeliner, characterized in that its raw materials are formulated as follows by weight: 10-20 parts of film-forming agent(s), 15-18 parts of thickener(s), 5-10 parts of emollient(s), 5-8 parts of suspending agent(s), 10-12 parts of filler(s), 8-15 parts of coloring agent(s), 6-10 parts of skin conditioner(s), 1-4 parts of preservative(s), 2-5 parts of antioxidant(s); the film-forming agent comprising trimethylsiloxysilicate, cyclopentasiloxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, dimethiconol crosspolymer and isododecane, wherein the content of trimethylsiloxysilicate is 40-50%, the content of cyclopentasiloxane is 20% to 25% and the content of silsesquioxane is 10% to 20%, the content of polydimethylsiloxanol crosslinked polymer is 15% to 20% and the content of isododecane is 15% to 18%;the thickener comprising hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene, polyethylene, microcrystalline wax and vitamin complex, beeswax, wherein the content of hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene is 20% to 25%, the content of polyethylene is 40% to 45%, the content of microcrystalline wax and vitamin complex is 20% to 30% and the content of beeswax is 20% to 24%. ; Paragraph 21 mentions the use of hydrogenated coconut oil, which is not derived from a dicotyledonous plant. Beeswax and microcrystalline wax are not vegetable waxes. For dyes, it is mentioned that the dye is preferably a composite of iron oxide, titanium dioxide, and silica. These are not organic vegetable dyes. Document CN112057368(A) of ANTE SUZHOU COSMETICS CO LTD describes a thick and long mascara, characterized in that it contains the following raw material components: 25%-28% carbon black CI77499, 10%-15% acrylic acid (ester) ammonium copolymer, 4%-8% butanediol, 2%-5% wax of candelilla, 2%-5% isododecane, 2%-4% polyvinylpyrrolidone, 1%-4% ethylenediamine / stearyl dipolylinoleate / pentaerythritol tetraester copolymer, 1%-5% cetearyl alcohol, 3%-4% glycerin, 2%-3% camauba wax, 1%-3% trimethylsiloxysilicate, 2%-5% palmitic acid, 1%-4% stearic acid, 1%-3% glyceryl stearate, 1%-3% PEG-100 stearate, 0.2%-1% phenoxyethanol, 0.3%-1% alcohol / tromethamine, 0.2%-0.8% denatured ethanol, 0.05%-0.2% hectorite, 0.05%-0.15% disodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate, 0.05%-0.2% polylauryl alcohol ether 30, 0.01%-0.1% sodium dehydroacetate, 0.01%-0.05% myristic acid, 0.01%-0.05% xanthan gum, 0.01%-0.03% lauric acid, 0.01%-0.02% arachidic acid and water. Carbon black is not an organic vegetable colorant. The compositions also do not contain vegetable oil, as glyceryl stearate is a synthetic glyceride consisting of glycerol mono and / or distearate. Document CN111643401 (A) of GUANGDONG BAWEI BIO-TECHNOLOGY CO LTD discloses a high water content lipstick characterized by being mainly composed of the following components in weight percentage: 0.8-4% emulsifier(s), 5-12% adhesive(s), 25-40% emollient(s) and 1.5-7% moisturizing agent(s), 5-14% anti-caking agent(s), 3-8% thickener(s), 2.5-15% colorant(s), 0.1-3% film-forming agent(s), 1-10% suspending agent(s), 0.1-1% antioxidant(s), 0.1-0.8% preservative(s), 1.5-6% isododecane, 1-27.5% water, the emulsifier being a combination of PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane and PEG-10 poly-dimethylsiloxane and the binder being a combination of synthetic wax and sunflower oil / hydrogenated vegetable oil. The dye is a dye or a combination of CI 15985 (synthetic azo dye), CI77891 (titanium dioxide), CI77491 (red iron oxide). These are therefore not organic plant dyes. In addition to synthetic wax, the use of beeswax is mentioned, but no plant wax is mentioned in the document. Document CN110559200 (A) of the company ZHONGSHAN MEIYUAN COSMETICS CO LTD describes a lip gloss, characterized in that it comprises the following components in terms of percentage: 1%-5% synthetic squalane, 1%-10% debentonite, 10%-40% octyldodecanol, 10%-30% isohexadecane, 1%-5% dimethylammonium distearyl hectorite gel, 1%-3% boron nitride, 0.1%-0.5% vitamin E, 1%-5% bismuth oxychloride, 1%-5% shea butter, 1%-5% cocoa butter, 0.1%-1% jojoba esters, 0.01%-0.2% ethylene / propylene / styrene copolymer, 1%-5% Hydrogenated polyisobutylene, 0.001%-0.005% BHT, 1%-3% sunflower oil, 1%-3% jojoba oil, 5%-20% isododecane (and) trimethylsiloxysilicate / dimethicone crosslinked polymer thiol, 1%-10% PVP (and) VP / eicosene copolymer, 0.1%-0.3% phenoxyethanol, 0.1%-0.3% piroctone olamine salt, 0.1%-0.3% ethylhexylglycerin, 0.1%-0.3% caprylyl glycol, 5%-10% silicon dioxide, 1%-4% pigment(s), 0.05%-0.2% essence(s), 5%-20% nacre(s), 0.01%-0.03% butene / ethylene / styrene copolymer. Pigments are not detailed. No vegetable waxes are mentioned, as jojoba esters are esters made from jojoba oil and / or hydrogenated jojoba oil through interesterification. Document CN108771635 (A) of GUANGZHOU AIBEI BIOLOGICAL TECH CO LTD discloses a foundation composition, characterized in that it comprises the following components by weight: 10-70 parts of isododecane, 0.1-3 parts of antioxidant(s), 1-15 parts of film-forming agent(s), 1.52-21.9 parts of coloring agent(s), 1.5-15 parts of skin feel regulator(s), 2.5-10 parts of suspending agent(s), 1-12 parts of thickener(s) and 2-10 parts of oat seed oil, the composition not containing water. The coloring actives are listed as titanium dioxide, CI77492 (yellow iron oxide), CI77491 (red iron oxide), CI77499 (black iron oxide). These coloring actives are not organic plant dyes. No waxes are mentioned in the document. Oat seed oil is derived from a monocotyledonous plant. Document CN107693385 (A) of ZHANGPU CAILUHUA COSMETICS CO LTD discloses a sunscreen repair base cream characterized by containing the following components: 8-10% by weight of titanium dioxide, 6-8% by weight of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, 1.5-2% by weight of zinc oxide, 0.09-0.1% by weight of zirconia, 11.053-14.825% by weight of emollient(s), 5.202-8.004% by weight of humectant(s), 6-8% by weight of isododecane, 2-5% by weight of emulsifier(s), 0.0001-0.00015% by weight of skin conditioner(s), 0.65-1.15% by weight thickener(s), 0.3-0.7% by weight of surfactant(s), 0.005-0.01% by weight of solubilizer(s), 3-3.5% by weight of glidant(s), 0.25-0.3% by weight of anticaking agent(s), 0.083—0.126% by weight of antioxidant(s), 0.03-0.07% by weight of chelating agent(s), 0.01-0.02% by weight of antistatic agent(s), 0.222-0.304% by weight of preservative(s), 0.53-0.72% by weight of colorant(s), the remainder being water;emollients which may be cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, sunflower oil, cow ivy extract, tocopheryl acetate, retinyl palmitate, bioflavonoids and Tallantoin.; Among vegetable oils, besides sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil is also mentioned as an emollient, and evening primrose oil as a moisturizing agent. The coloring system may comprise 0.35-0.45% by weight of yellow iron oxide (CI77492), 0.1-0.15% by weight of red iron oxide (CI77491) and 0.08-0.12% by weight black iron oxide (CI77499). These dyes are not organic plant dyes. The document also does not mention the possibility of using waxes. Document CN107468547 (A) of ZHANGPU CAILUHUA COSMETICS CO LTD discloses an ultra-fibrous long mascara, characterized in that it is composed of the following components: 11-12% by weight of microcrystalline wax, 6-7% by weight of polyethylene, 3.5-4.5% by weight of ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, 8-9% by weight of paraffin, 1.5-2% by weight of candelilla wax extract, 1.5-2.5% by weight of dis-tearyldimethylammonium hectorite, 1.3-1.7% by weight of Nylon-6, 0.005-0.02% by weight of silica, 0.2-0.4% by weight of Nylon-66, 1-2% by weight of dextrin palmitate, 0.7-1.3% by weight of beeswax, 0.05-0.15% by weight of tocopherol, 1.701-2.302% by weight of colorant(s), 0.1-0.25% by weight of preservative(s), 0.8-1.2% by weight of ethanol, the balance being isododecane. If beeswax and microcrystalline wax are not vegetable waxes, we can consider that candelilla wax extract can be such a wax, even if some doubt remains. On the other hand, for colorants, it is indicated that they can be chosen from iron oxides, black 2 (BLACK 2) and titanium dioxide. Black 2 could refer to either carbon black or a synthetic colorant. In both cases, they are not organic vegetable colorants. No vegetable oil is mentioned. Document KR20130094478 (A) of KOLMAR KOREA discloses a cosmetic composition for eye makeup comprising the following based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition: (a) 1 to 60% by weight of a wax resin base in which the wax is dispersed in isododecane; b) 0.5 to 50% by weight of an emulsifier; and c) 2 to 40% by weight of a pigment. Wax can be animal, mineral, synthetic, or vegetable. Examples of vegetable waxes are cited. A list of pigments is mentioned, but these are either white pigments or mineral and / or synthetic colored pigments. Carbon black is also mentioned, but it is not an organic vegetable colorant. No vegetable oils are cited. Application KR20100007960 from WOONGJIN COWAY CO LT describes a water-in-oil cosmetic composition for eye makeup in which an aqueous phase comprising an aqueous solution of acrylate-based copolymer in film form is dispersed in an oily phase comprising a hydrogenated rosinate-based ester gum. The addition of waxes is envisaged and vegetable waxes are cited. As oily components, volatile oils are cited, including isododecane and isohexadecane. The addition of pigments is also envisaged without further details. In the examples, only black iron oxide is used in combination with isododecane and carnauba wax. No vegetable oil is mentioned in the document. Document FR2924939 (Al) from the company L'OREAL describes a hair coloring process comprising the application to the hair of a composition comprising one or more hydrophobic film-forming polymers, one or more pigments and a volatile solvent, followed by a step of heating the hair covered with the composition to a temperature above 40°C. Among the volatile solvents in a long list are isododecane and isodecane. A large number of pigments are described, including white and colored pigments of mineral or synthetic organic origin. The only organic plant dye mentioned is sorghum red. The plant from which it is derived is a monocotyledonous plant. The only vegetable oils mentioned are oxyethylenated oils that can be used as polymer plasticizers. Vegetable waxes are only mentioned among other organic agents as potential surface treatment agents for pigments. The illustrative examples only use pearlescent pigments with iron oxides. Isododecane is only used in example 2 of the 7 examples. Neither vegetable oils nor vegetable waxes are present in these 7 examples. Document FR3110081 (Al) from the company GLOBAL BIOENERGIES describes a process for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising the following steps 1) the production of isobutene by a fermentation process comprising the formation of 3-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid and / or 3-methylcrotonic acid as an intermediate product, 2) the conversion of isobutene to isododecane, and 3) the mixture of isododecane with at least one compound chosen from: waxes, oils, resins, dyes and their mixtures. It also describes a composition that can be obtained according to the process described. The oil(s) may be of plant, animal or mineral origin. Preferably, the oil(s) are chosen from oils of plant origin. A list of vegetable oils is indicated. It contains oils from mono or dicotyledonous plants as well as octyldodecanol which is not strictly speaking a vegetable oil. By "dye" in this document is meant a coloring chemical substance. The colorant(s) may be of plant, animal, mineral or synthetic origin. Preferably, the colorant(s) are chosen from colorants of plant, animal or mineral origin. The colorants of plant origin are not specified. The only example of a composition that is described is a mascara that only contains a mineral coloring agent in its composition. The composition described by elsewhere does not contain liquid vegetable oil. Document CN115364002 (A) of the company LEE SHIN BIO TECH COSMETICS SHANGHAI CO LTD describes a liquid foundation with an anti-acne effect, characterized in that it comprises as components one or more humectants, one or more emollients, one or more film-forming agents, one or more emulsifiers, one or more antioxidants, one or more skin conditioning agents, one or more thickeners, one or more colorants, one or more compound vegetable oils, isododecane, ethanol and deionized water. Among the compound vegetable oils, wheat germ oil and corn germ oil from monocotyledonous plants are mentioned. Among the dyes that can be used, red iron oxide, aluminum hydroxide, titanium dioxide, yellow iron oxide or black iron oxide are preferred. The possible presence of extracts of Curcuma guangxi (or kwangsiensis), Curcuma zedoaria, Curcuma curcuma is mentioned but as skin conditioning agents. It is indicated that these ingredients act as agents for regulating the microbial flora, soothing the skin and strengthening the skin barrier. These extracts are also derived from monocotyledonous plants and it is not mentioned whether these extracts contain dyes or not. The potential presence of waxes in the compositions of this document is not mentioned. Document FR3031300 (Al) from the company L'OREAL describes a packaging and application assembly for a makeup and / or care composition for keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: i) an anhydrous makeup and / or care composition comprising at least isododecane and isohexadecane in an isododecane / isohexadecane weight ratio varying from 0.2 to 2; ii) an element for applying said composition; and iii) heating means for bringing said composition to a temperature conducive to its deformability. In addition to isododecane and isohexadecane, the compositions may contain waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral, or synthetic origin or mixtures thereof. It is specified that the compositions preferably comprise at least one wax chosen from the group consisting of sunflower wax, camauba wax, beeswax, in particular white beeswax, ozokerite wax, paraffin and mixtures thereof. It is also indicated that the wax may be an alcohol wax such as stearic alcohol or cetyl alcohol or a silicone wax. It is also indicated that the compositions may contain a non-volatile oil which may be chosen from triglycerides including vegetable oils, synthetic ethers, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, synthetic esters, liquid fatty alcohols, higher (unsaturated) fatty acids and silicone oils. A list of non-volatile vegetable oils of all origins (mono and dicotyledonous) is given on page 24. The compositions preferably contain at least one coloring matter chosen from powdery materials including pigments and pearlescent agents, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof. In the pigments and pearlescent agents there is no mention of compounds of plant origin. In the fat-soluble dyes, [3 carotene and annatto are mentioned among other compounds. The sample composition does indeed contain isododecane, sunflower wax and camauba wax but is made with black iron oxide and does not contain triglycerides.

[0003] There is a need to provide improved cosmetic compositions, in particular for makeup of the skin or lips or eyelashes or eyebrows or nails, having ingredients with an improved impact on the consumer while having good technical properties, in particular in terms of spreading on the anatomical substrate, in particular slip and absence of stickiness, and in terms of the colorations obtained, good qualities of coverage, intensity and durability over time.

[0004] To this end, the applicant recommends cosmetic compositions comprising (a) one or more organic coloring ingredients of plant origin, (b) one or more liquid ingredients at room temperature and atmospheric pressure based on plant triglycerides, optionally hydrogenated, the plants corresponding to ingredients (a) and (b) belonging to dicotyledonous angiosperms (c) one or more isoalkanes comprising 10 to 12 carbon atoms and (d) one or more plant waxes based on mono and / or diesters, optionally hydrogenated. None of the prior art documents mentioned describes a composition such as that described above. The compositions of the invention spread easily and homogeneously on the anatomical substrate on which they are applied. The feel is non-sticky. The compositions of the invention then exhibit, after application to the anatomical substrate, good coloring intensity and good coverage. The coloring obtained is long-lasting. Good colour intensity means a colour that is not too light once applied to the substrate, regardless of the desired colour reflection. Good coverage means good coverage of the substrate requiring a small amount of composition to achieve the desired overall coloring effect in terms of intensity and the strength of the desired reflection. This small amount results in a low product thickness and a better feel.

[0005] The compositions of the invention comprise one or more organic coloring ingredients of plant origin (a), the plants corresponding to these ingredients (a) ap- belonging to dicotyledonous angiosperms. For the purposes of the present invention, the term organic compound means a hydrocarbon compound, therefore carrying carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms and possibly other atoms, in particular heteroatoms and / or halogen atoms and / or metal atoms or ions. These organic dyes can be neutral, acidic or basic. A coloring ingredient means an ingredient capable of imparting a color other than white to a substrate. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “organic coloring ingredient of plant origin” means an ingredient containing one or more organic colorings derived from a plant or a plant secretion. The coloring ingredients (a) come from all types of plants belonging to the dicotyledonous angiosperm plants. For the definition of dicotyledonous angiosperms, we refer to the CRONQUIST classification published in "An Integrated System of Classification of Flowering Plants" (1981). It includes all subclasses, orders, families of angiosperm plants (or Magnoliophyta) and the classes Dicotyledonous (or Magnoliopsida) or Monocotyledonous (or Liliopsida). Dicotyledonous plants and the coloring principles they contain make it possible to obtain the whole range of desired shades. The main roots are often aborted in monocots and the perianths are often simple perianths without the sepal-petal association of dicots. Sources of dyes are generally more quantitatively limited in monocots. Dyes can come from all parts of the plant and in particular from the roots, stems or trunks, leaves, flowers and fruits. They can also come from plant secretions or exudates produced by the said plants, in particular in reaction to or prevention of an attack. Ingredients (a) may consist of a whole plant or a part of a plant or an extract of a whole plant or part of a plant. Preferably, ingredients (a) are extracts of whole plants or parts of plants. Ingredients (a) may be obtained by grinding, by extraction with water or solvents or supercritical carbon dioxide, by chemical or enzymatic attack or by a combination of these means. There may be a subsequent concentration operation in coloring actives by filtration or by evaporation of solvent. Finally, an addition of adjuvants is possible to facilitate implementation. These ingredients (a) may be soluble or insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. As organic coloring ingredients of plant origin (a) and in particular coloring extracts of plant origin, we can notably cite those derived from the following plants: Madder (example species Rubia Tinctorum) Tomato (example of species Solanum Lycopersicum) Quebracho (example of species Schinopsis quebracho-colorado) Pernambouc (example of species Caesalpinia Echinata) Chestnut (example of species Castanea Sativa) Rocouyer (example of species Orella Bixane) of species Caesalpinia Sappan) Genipa (example of species Genipa Americana) Indigotier (example of species Indigofera Tinctoria) Cabbage rouge (example of species Brassica Oleracea) Réséda (example of species Réséda Luteola) Sumac (example of species Réséda Luteola) (example of Raphanus Sativus species) The coloring ingredients (a) of the invention are preferably dispersed in the cosmetic composition containing them. By dispersed we mean that the extract is insoluble or not completely solubilized in the composition at room temperature (20 to 35°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). The concentration of coloring ingredients (a) in the compositions of the invention preferably varies from 0.1% to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 50%, better still from 2% to 40%, even better still from 4% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0006] It is possible to add to the coloring ingredients of plant origin (a) other coloring ingredients soluble in water or preferably insoluble in water at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa). These may be other colorings of plant origin different from the ingredients (a) or synthetic organic pigments or mineral pigments. Preferably the coloring ingredients of plant origin (a) and the coloring ingredients of plant origin other than the ingredients (a) are the only coloring ingredients present in the compositions of the invention.

[0007] The compositions of the invention comprise one or more ingredients (b) which are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and based on plant triglycerides, optionally hydrogenated, the plants corresponding to these ingredients (b) belonging to dicotyledonous angiosperms. For the purposes of the present invention, liquid means a non-powdery ingredient capable of flowing under the action of its own weight. Atmospheric pressure means a pressure of 1.013 x 105 Pa. Room temperature means a temperature ranging from 15 to 25°C. By ingredient based on vegetable triglycerides, possibly hydrogenated, is meant within the meaning of the present invention that the triglycerides derived directly from plants by fractionation and whose only chemical modification may be hydrogenation, constitute the largest weight part of ingredient (d), before any possible hydrogenation reaction. Triglycerides are triesters of glycerol with carboxylic fatty acids preferably comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated. The only possible chemical modification of the ingredients (d) of the invention is hydrogenation. In particular, these compounds d) cannot be derived from a transesterification reaction and / or an oxyethylenation reaction. Ingredients (d) are chosen in particular from vegetable oils. These oils may optionally be hydrogenated at least partially as long as they remain liquid. The advantage of oils from dicotyledonous plants is that they are generally less rich in saturated fatty acids or richer in co9 fatty acid than monocotyledons, which is an advantage for the treating effect on cosmetic substrates.More preferably, ingredients (b) are chosen from sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vemonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, sunflower oil, baobab oil, pomegranate oil, plum oil, borage oil, lupin oil, pistachio oil, castor oil, possibly hydrogenated. These oils can be used as is or in form or possibly in at least partially hydrogenated form as long as they remain liquid. Apart from the possible chemical hydrogenation operation mentioned above, obtaining the ingredients (b) of the invention may involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration. The compositions of the invention comprise a proportion of ingredients (b) preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0008] The compositions of the invention comprise at least one or more isoalkanes comprising from 10 to 12 carbon atoms (c). Isoalkane means an organic compound containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms, saturated and presenting in its developed chemical structure one or more branches. Preferably the isoalkane is chosen from isodecane (2-methyl nonane), iso undecane (2-methyl decane) and isododecane. Even more preferably the isoalkane is isododecane. Isododecane is a branched higher alkane with the chemical formula C12H26. It normally corresponds to 2-methylundecane. It is a liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 105 Pa) and is not soluble in water under these conditions. In practice, it may be a mixture of isomers containing 2-methylundecane. The concentration of isoalkanes (b) in the compositions of the invention preferably varies from 0.1% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 80%, better still from 2% to 75%, even better still from 5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0009] The compositions of the invention comprise one or more vegetable waxes (d) based on mono and / or diesters. By vegetable wax whose ester component is based on mono and / or diesters, it is meant within the meaning of the present invention that all the mono and diesters derived directly from plants by fractionation and whose only chemical modification may be hydrogenation constitute the largest weight part of the esters of the wax (d). In addition, for vegetable waxes, the esterification of fatty acids takes place with a mono or dihydroxylated fatty alcohol, whereas for natural vegetable oils or vegetable butters it is with glycerol, in this case with the formation of triesters (triglycerides). The mono esters or diesters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are therefore the predominant elements of the ester fraction of the waxes of the invention, which clearly distinguishes them from vegetable butters or oils. The fatty acids of the esters of these waxes are generally saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated carboxylic acids containing 16 to 28 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols of these same esters can be mono or di hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated and generally contain 20 to 34 carbon atoms. With the exception of a few specific cases, plant waxes are produced and located on the surface of the aerial parts of plants, at the level of their cuticle. Preferably the melting point of the waxes of the invention is greater than or equal to 30°C, better still greater than 35°C, even better still greater than 40°C. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example that offered by the company METTLER under the reference DSC 30. The vegetable waxes (d) are preferably chosen from camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax and in particular rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, orange wax, laurel wax, apple wax, jojoba wax, rose wax, acacia wax, lemon wax, macadamia wax, apricot wax, peach wax, argan wax, optionally hydrogenated. These waxes as indicated can be used as they are or in hydrogenated form (partially or totally). More preferably, the vegetable waxes (d) are chosen from camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax and in particular rice bran wax and even more preferably from camauba wax and candelilla wax. Hydrogenation is the only chemical transformation that the ingredients (d) of the invention may undergo. In particular, these ingredients (d) cannot be derived from a transesterification reaction and / or an oxyethylenation reaction. Preferably, the vegetable waxes (d) of the invention are not hydrogenated. Apart from the possible chemical hydrogenation operation mentioned above, obtaining the ingredients (c) of the invention may involve one or more physical processes such as, for example, grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration. The compositions of the invention comprise a proportion of vegetable waxes (d) preferably ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 85% by weight, even better still from 2% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The compositions of the invention may also contain, as optional additives, fatty substances other than ingredients (b), (c) and (d). The additional fatty substance(s) are chosen from oils, vegetable butters or waxes. Additional oils can be polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile (an oil is said to be non-volatile when its vapor pressure is less than 0.02 mm of mercury at atmospheric pressure and room temperature). Additional oils can be hydrocarbon, mineral or synthetic. They can also be silicone or fluorinated. Silicone oils can be linear or branched or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes possibly carrying aryl groups and in particular phenyl. The apolar hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from paraffin oil, linear alkanes (n-dodecane), squalane, eicosane, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutylenes or polyisobutylenes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes. They can also be chosen from branched or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol and octyldodecanol. Polar oils are preferably hydrocarbon. Vegetable butters are distinguished from vegetable oils by their appearance. They are in solid or semi-solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. They do not flow under their own weight. They contain triglycerides with a significant fraction of saturated fatty acids. These butters can be completely natural or result from at least partial hydrogenation of triglycerides containing unsaturated fatty acids. These butters can therefore be used as they are or in hydrogenated form (partially or totally). Butters generally have a melting point ranging from 25°C to 50°C. Vegetable butters are preferably derived from dicotyledonous angiosperms. Vegetable butters are preferably chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, almond butter, jojoba butter, apricot butter, pistachio butter, argan butter, avocado butter, olive butter, plum butter, possibly hydrogenated. Additional waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated and be of natural, mineral, animal or synthetic origin. They can be polar or non-polar. Examples of non-polar waxes include microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, and polyethylene waxes. The polar waxes are preferably hydrocarbon-based and even more preferably chosen from ester waxes comprising at least one ester function and alcohol waxes comprising at least one alcohol function. The ester waxes are preferably chosen from esters of fatty acid(s) and / or fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. These ester waxes can be derived from hydrogenated animal oils. The alcohol waxes are preferably chosen from fatty alcohols in solid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol. Among the additional waxes of animal origin, beeswax is preferred. Preferably, the compositions of the invention do not comprise silicone fatty substances. In the compositions of the invention, the content of additional fatty substances other than fatty substances (b), (c) and (d) can vary from 0.1% to 90% by weight, better still from 0.2% to 75%. by weight, even better from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0011] The compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more surfactants chosen from anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants. The compositions according to the invention may further comprise one or more conventional additives well known in the art, different from the compounds defined previously. Examples of additives that can be used according to the invention include associative or non-associative, ionic or non-ionic polymers and in particular thickening polymers, mineral thickeners, UVA and / or UVB filters, softening agents, solvents, moisturizing agents, vitamins, pro-vitamins, amino acids, perfumes, peptizing agents, preservatives, antioxidants, alkalizing or acidifying agents (in particular for regulating the pH of aqueous compositions or for salifying the ingredients), color-fixing agents, anti-wrinkle agents.

[0012] The compositions of the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. For the purposes of the invention, anhydrous means a composition containing at room temperature less than 5% water by weight, even better less than 1% water by weight and preferably not containing water, in particular added water. For the purposes of the invention, the term "aqueous" means a composition containing at room temperature from 5% to 99.01% of water by weight. Preferably, if it is aqueous, the composition comprises at room temperature from 25 to 98% of water, better still from 40 to 95% of water by weight. In one variant, the composition(s) of the invention are anhydrous. The cosmetic compositions of the invention are preferably compositions for topical use. By topical composition is meant a composition intended to be applied to the surface of external bodily substrates. The compositions according to the invention are intended particularly for the treatment of the skin, hair, lips, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows. Preferably, the compositions of the invention are intended for making up the skin of the lips, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails with the addition of color to these substrates. For the purposes of the invention, the term “addition of color” means a modification of the color of the substrate other than simple bleaching. The compositions of the invention may be in the form of powders, compact solids, solutions or emulsions. Compositions for skin makeup can be foundations, shadows or eyeshadows. Even more preferably, the compositions of the invention are intended for lip makeup. Better the composition of the invention is a solid composition for lip makeup, preferably a lipstick stick. The invention also covers a method for making up the skin, or the lips, or the eyelashes, or the eyebrows or the nails, better still the skin or the lips or the eyelashes, even better still the skin or the lips, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the anatomical substrate concerned a composition according to the invention, preferably without subsequent rinsing.

[0013] [Examples]

[0014] The example below illustrates the invention without, however, limiting its scope. Example 1 The composition described in Table 1 below is that of a lipstick stick. This stick is easy to make. It applies easily to the lips evenly and has good gliding power. It feels non-sticky. The resulting color has good intensity, is covering and long-lasting.

[0015] [Tables 1] Ingredient Quantity in g per 100g of composition Madder root extract (coloring ingredient of plant origin (a)) 6 Isododecane (isoalkane (c)) 16 Castor oil (vegetable oil based on triglycerides (b)) 19.25 Sunflower oil (vegetable oil based on triglycerides (b)) 32.27 Carnauba wax (vegetable wax based on mono and or diesters (d)) 18 Shea butter 5.6 Potassium alum 1.83 Sodium carbonate 0.87 Vitamin E 0.18

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising (a) one or more organic coloring ingredients of plant origin, (b) one or more liquid ingredients at room temperature and atmospheric pressure based on plant triglycerides, optionally hydrogenated, the plants corresponding to ingredients (a) and (b) belonging to dicotyledonous angiosperms (c) one or more isoalkanes comprising 10 to 12 carbon atoms and (d) one or more plant waxes based on mono and / or diesters, optionally hydrogenated.

2. Composition according to claim 1 in which the organic coloring ingredient(s) (a) are derived from the following plants: madder, tomato, quebracho, pernambuco, chestnut, annatto, sappan, genipa, indigo, red cabbage, mignonette, sumac, radish.

3. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the coloring ingredient(s) (a) are extracts of whole plants or parts of plants.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the concentration of coloring ingredients (a) varies from 0.1% to 60%, more preferably from 1% to 50%, better still from 2% to 40%, even better still from 4% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the liquid triglyceride-based ingredient(s) (b) are chosen from vegetable oils and preferably from sweet almond oil, argan oil, avocado oil, peanut oil, camellia oil, safflower oil, calophyllum oil, rapeseed oil, coriander oil, pumpkin oil, jojoba oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, hazelnut oil, walnut oil, vernonia oil, apricot kernel oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, passionflower oil, grape seed oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, hemp oil, sunflower oil, baobab oil, pomegranate oil, plum oil, borage oil, lupin oil, pistachio oil, castor oil, possibly hydrogenated.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the proportion of ingredients (b) ranges from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the com- position.

7. A composition according to any preceding claim wherein the isoalkane (c) is isododecane.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the concentration of isoalkanes (c) varies from 0.1% to 90%, more preferably from 1% to 80%, better still from 2% to 75%, even better still from 5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the vegetable wax(es) based on mono and / or diesters (d) are chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax and in particular rice bran wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, orange wax, laurel wax, apple wax, jojoba wax, rose wax, acacia wax, lemon wax, macadamia wax, apricot wax, peach wax, argan wax, optionally hydrogenated.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in which the vegetable waxes (d) are present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 90% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 85% by weight, even better still from 2% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is anhydrous.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is for topical use.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a lipstick stick.

14. Method for making up the skin, or the lips, or the eyelashes, or the eyebrows or the nails, better still the skin or the lips or the eyelashes, even better still the skin and the lips, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the anatomical substrate concerned a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, preferably without subsequent rinsing.