Compact powder without talc and free mica, based on perlite, at least one spherical filler, non-volatile oils, an amorphous hydrocarbon sequence copolymer and a particulate colorant

Abstract

Title: Compact powder without talc and free mica, based on perlite, at least one spherical filler, non-volatile oils, an amorphous hydrocarbon sequence copolymer, and a particulate colorant. The present invention relates to a compact powder containing at least: a) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil; and b) a powdery phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdery phase comprising at least: i) perlite; and ii) at least one spherical filler selected from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; and iii) at least one particulate colorant; and c) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon sequence copolymer; and d) at least one pigment.said composition not containing talc particles or mica particles in free form and said composition being capable of being obtained by a process comprising the following steps: (1) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon sequenced copolymer, the powdered phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and (2) injecting the slurry into a container and shaping it by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction?;

Description

Title of the invention: Compact powder without talc and without free mica, based on perlite, at least one spherical filler, non-volatile oils, an amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer and a particulate colorant

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, said compact powder being prepared by a wet process.

[0002] Skin care and / or makeup compositions are generally used to give an attractive color to the skin, such as the face, but also to mask skin imperfections, such as redness, marks, fine lines and wrinkles.

[0003] The above-mentioned powders mainly have the function of providing color, mattness and even, for those more particularly intended for facial skin, of improving the hold of the foundation or, if used alone, to provide coverage (foundation powder, eye shadow, blush). These galenic forms are particularly appreciated by users due to their lightness, softness and non-sticky or greasy appearance to the touch.

[0004] Generally speaking, these compositions combine a generally predominant powdery phase with a binding phase most often represented by a liquid fatty phase. The powdery phase is essentially formed of fillers combined with pigments, the quantity of the latter being modulated to provide the desired makeup effect, generally colored.

[0005] To obtain a composition in compacted solid form, it is known from the prior art to use compacted makeup powders formed by a mixture of powders with a fatty binder and shaped for example by compression.

[0006] However, these compact powders have the particular disadvantage of being fragile. Thus, when the percentage of pigments increases within the product, its manufacture and compaction become complicated or even impossible to carry out on an industrial level given the quality and productivity requirements. In addition, significant quantities of powder phase in the compact powder do not give satisfactory sensory properties when the powder is removed from its packaging and / or when it is applied to the surface of the skin to be made up. It is also difficult for the formulator to obtain good hold of the product on the skin. To overcome these drawbacks, if the quantity of fatty binder is increased, this composition will tend to wax, that is to say, to harden during use to the point of preventing removal.

[0007] Among the qualities sought for compact makeup powders, we can cite: - good cohesion and homogenization of the composition, - good shock resistance, - a good texture, - appropriate hardness, - good adhesion to the skin, - good sampling regardless of the applicator (in terms of sufficient quantity of product), - comfort on application without drying effect on the skin, - good powder holding properties, - good sensory properties at the time of sampling, - good sensory properties when applying the product.

[0008] It is known from the prior art to manufacture such compositions to use volatile organic solvents (isododecane, isopropanol) implemented in a wet preparation process called "WET PROCESS", to inject one or more powder(s) of a given shade into a respective cup. These solvents allow the fluidification of the powder and the formation of a mud called "slurry" and its shaping in a cup then evaporate.

[0009] Compact powders obtained by this wet process technique have already been proposed in patent EP2928448B1; said powders comprising: - an oily phase greater than or equal to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, - a powdery phase greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least one spherical filler and at least one lamellar filler; the spherical filler(s) and the lamellar filler(s) being present at a respective total weight content such that the weight ratio of the spherical filler(s) to the lamellar filler(s) is greater than or equal to 0.01, preferably between 0.02 and 15.

[0010] Patent application EP3595620 also proposed a compact powder containing at least: - an oily phase in an amount of at least 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil; and - a powdery phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdery phase comprising at least mica particles; and - at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer; said composition not containing any untreated silicone talc particle and being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: (i) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and (ii) the sludge is injected into a container (bucket or mold) and shaped by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in powder form.

[0011] These wet-process compositions comprise a high quantity of lamellar fillers comprising free-form mica and talc in order to maintain good injectability in the manufacturing process and, after evaporation of the volatile solvent, to obtain satisfactory product deposition, cohesion and impact resistance. The presence of talc in association with free-form mica tends to give compact powders having shiny or satin effects. The applicant has found during its research that reducing or removing the free-form talc and / or mica from these compact powders to obtain mattness affects the deposition, cohesion and / or sensorial properties.

[0012] There remains a need to find new compact powders obtained by the wet process, without talc and without mica in free form, having both good injectability in the wet manufacturing process, and after evaporation of the volatile solvent, good product deposition, good cohesion, good mattness and good sensoriality.

[0013] The applicant unexpectedly discovered that these objectives could be achieved with a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: a) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil and b) a powdery phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdery phase comprising at least: (i) perlite; and (ii) at least one spherical filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; and (iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; and (c) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer; and d) at least one pigment; said composition not containing talc particles or mica particles in free form and said composition being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: 1) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and (2) the sludge is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.

[0014] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0015] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: a) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil and b) a powdery phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said powdery phase comprising at least: (i) perlite; and (ii) at least one spherical filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; and (iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; and (c) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer; and d) at least one pigment; said composition not containing talc particles or mica particles in free form and said composition being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising at least the following steps: 1) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and (2) the sludge is injected into a container and shaped by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.

[0016] A second subject of the present invention is a process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, and more particularly a process for making up and / or caring for said keratin materials, comprising the application thereto of the composition as defined above. Definitions

[0017] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin (face, cheeks, eyelids).

[0018] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0019] By "talc particle" is meant particles of hydroxylated magnesium silicate of molecular formula Mg3Si4Oio(OH)2 called talc and belonging to the chemical family of phyllosilicates. Said talc particle may be untreated or surface-treated, namely uncoated or surface-coated, for example a surface treatment agent chosen from silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0020] Mica is the name of a family of minerals, from the silicate group, subgroup of phyllosilicates, formed mainly of aluminum and potassium silicate. It is characterized by its layered structure (phyllosilicates). It is characterized by its layered structure (phyllosilicates), most often giving the form of flakes, and its metallic luster.

[0021] By "mica in free form" is meant any natural or synthetic mica not bound to one or more chemical compounds in a composite structure such as nacres comprising mica as a substrate on which is covered metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxides, tin oxides.

[0022] By "composition not containing talc particles" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight, or even free of talc particles.

[0023] By "composition not containing mica particles in free form" is meant any composition containing less than 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight, or even free of mica particles in free form.

[0024] For the purposes of the present invention, the following terms are intended to denote: - by "solid", the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), i.e. a composition of high consistency, which retains its shape during storage. In contrast to so-called fluid compositions, it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined below. - by “compact powder”, a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at less in part thanks to compaction or preferably pressing during manufacturing. In particular, by carrying out a measurement by a TA.XT.plus Texture Analyser® texturometer sold by the company Stable Micro Systems, the compact powder according to the invention can advantageously have a resistance to pressure of between 0.1 and 1 kg, in particular between 0.2 and 0.8 kg, brought back to the surface of the mobile used (in this case 7.07 mm2). The measurement of this resistance is carried out by moving a flat-ended cylindrical mobile SMS P / 3 in contact with the powder, over a distance of 2 mm and at a speed of 0.5 mm / second; more generally this powder can be obtained by compaction, or preferably by pressing.

[0025] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content greater than or equal to 95%, better still 98%, or even equal to 100%.

[0026] For the purposes of the present invention, “dry extract content” means the content of non-volatile matter.

[0027] The quantity of dry extract (abbreviated ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen desiccator “HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73®” from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is based on the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual matter once the water and volatile matter have evaporated. This technique is fully described in the documentation for the device provided by Mettler TOLEDO.

[0028] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0029] Approximately 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, are spread on a metal dish which is introduced into the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight is obtained. The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

[0030] The experimental error related to the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%. The Dry Extract content is calculated as follows: Dry Extract Content (expressed in % by weight) = 100 x (Dry Mass / Wet Mass). Powder phase

[0031] The powdery phase comprises at least: (i) perlite; and ii) at least one spherical filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin; and (iii) at least one particulate coloring agent.

[0032] A solid composition according to the invention has a powder phase content greater than or equal to 40% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 50 to 85% by weight, better still from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to its total weight of the composition. Perlite

[0033] The perlites which can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the following composition: - 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiO2 - 12.0-15.0% by weight of aluminum oxide A12O3 - 3.0-5.0% sodium oxide Na2O2 - 3.0-5.0% potassium oxide K2O - 0.5-2% iron oxide Fe2O3 - 0.2-0.7% magnesium oxide MgO - 0.5-1.5% calcium oxide CaO - 0.05 - 0.15% titanium oxide TiO2.

[0034] Preferably, the perlite is ground, dried and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained, called Perlite Ore, is gray in color and of the order of 100 μm in size. The Perlite Ore is then expanded (1000°C / 2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material vaporizes and causes the material to expand relative to its original volume.

[0035] The expanded perlite particles in accordance with the invention can be obtained by the expansion process described in US patent 5,002,698. 35

[0036] Preferably, the perlite particles used will be ground; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP).

[0037] They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 pm.

[0038] Preferably, the perlite particles used have an unpacked apparent density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m3 (DIN Standard 53468) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg / m3.

[0039] Preferably, perlite sold by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name Perlite-M SZ12® is used.

[0040] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises perlite in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Spherical charge

[0041] A composition in accordance with the invention comprises one or more spherical filler(s) chosen from inorganic fillers, organic fillers of natural origin.

[0042] By “organic filler of natural origin” is meant any filler derived from a plant and having undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by synthesis reaction.

[0043] By "fillers", for the purposes of the present invention, it is necessary to understand the colorless or white, solid particles of all forms, of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0044] By "spherical" is meant that the particle has a sphericity index, that is to say the ratio between its largest diameter and its smallest diameter, of less than 1.2.

[0045] According to a particular form of the invention, the average diameter of spherical charge(s) in accordance with the invention may vary from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 1 to 50 pm, in particular less than 30 pm, and more particularly ranging from 1 to 25 pm.

[0046] By "average diameter" of the particles is meant the average diameter over 50% by volume of the particles (D[0.5]) obtained using a laser diffraction granulometer (e.g. Mastersizer 2000® from Malvern Company).

[0047] The spherical fillers of the present invention may be porous or non-porous, hollow or solid.

[0048] An inorganic spherical filler in accordance with the invention may be chosen from the group consisting of glass microbeads; silica microbeads, in particular amorphous porous silica microbeads, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] Among the glass microbeads, we can cite: - those with the INCI name: GLASS BEADS such as the commercial product P2015SL® (9-11 pm) by the company PRIZMALITE; - hollow microspheres with INCI name: CALCIUM ALUMINIUM BORO-SILICATE such as the commercial product LUXSIL COSMETIC MICROSPHERES® (9-13 pm) by the company POTTERS.

[0050] As an example of spherical particles of amorphous silica, the following commercial PRODUCTS can be used: Silica 35 Beads SB-150®, SB-300® or SB 700®, preferably SB 300® from the company MYOSHI KASEI; the SUNSPHERE® or SOLASPHERE® range from the company Asahi Glass AGC SLTECH, in particular SUNSPHERE H-51® or SUNSPHERE 12L®, SUNSPHERE H-201®, H-52® and SUNSPHERE® or SOLASPHERE H-53®; SUNSIL 1308® from the company Sunjin; SPHERICA P-1500® from the company Ikeda Corporation; SY-LOSPHERE® from the company Fuji Silysia; the SILICA PEARL® and SATINIER® ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more specifically SATINIER Ml3® and Satinier Ml6 silicas, MSS-500® silicas from KOBO, and more specifically the MSS-500-20N®, as well as the Silica Shells® from the company KOBO.

[0051] The organic spherical fillers of natural origin may be selected from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline celluloses in the form of spheres, and mixtures thereof. The cellulose beads that can be used are not limited by the type of cellulose such as cellulose I, cellulose II or the like.

[0052] Among the cellulose microbeads, we can cite the commercial products CELLULOSE BEADS USF® (4-7 pm), CELLULOSE BEADS D-10® (< 15 pm), CELLULOSE BEADS D-30® (< 30 pm) and CELLULOSE BEADS D-100® (< 100 pm) sold by the company DAITO.

[0053] More particularly, the composition comprises at least one spherical filler chosen from glass microbeads with the INCI name: CALCIUM ALUMINIUM BO-ROSILICATE, porous amorphous silica microbeads, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises the spherical filler(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional charges

[0055] According to a particular form, the composition may comprise at least one additional filler.

[0056] In particular, the additional fillers may be chosen from C8-C22 N-acyl amino acid powders, boron nitride, magnesium stearate and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Among the C8-C22 N-acyl amino acid powders, N-Lauroyl Lysine will preferably be used, such as the commercial product AMIHOPE LL® sold by the company AJINOMOTO. Boron nitride

[0058] There are several polymorphic forms of boron nitride: - hexagonal boron nitrides (denoted h-BN), - rhombohedral boron nitrides (noted r-BN), - amorphous boron nitrides (denoted a-BN), - turbostratic boron nitrides (noted t-BN), - cubic boron nitrides (denoted c-BN), and - hexagonal boron nitrides of the wurtzite type (noted w-BN).

[0059] The hexagonal boron nitride h-BN has a so-called hexagonal sheet structure, formed by the AB AB type stacking of BN planes, which are perfectly superimposed from one plane to the other thanks to the difference in chemical nature of the elements B and N.

[0060] According to a particular form of the invention, boron nitride particles will be used which have a platelet shape and a hexagonal shape (denoted h-BN).

[0061] Preferably, the boron nitride particles have an average particle size ranging from 0.1 to 25 μm and preferably from 0.3 to 15 μm.

[0062] The particle size is measured using a laser diffraction distribution method with a device such as Microtrac® from Nikkiso or 3042407 16 Mastersizer® from Malvern, in particular by measuring the values ​​D

[10] , D

[50] and D

[90] . D

[10] represents the maximum size present in 10% by volume of the particles. D

[50] represents the maximum size present in 50% by volume of the particles. D

[90] represents the maximum size present in 90% by volume of the particles.

[0063] The boron nitride particles in accordance with the invention may be chosen from the following commercial products: RONAFLAIR BORONEIGE SQ-6 ® sold by the company MERCK, SP2® and SP8® sold by the company Saint Gobain Ceramics, the products SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6657®, CC6058®, CC6059® sold by the company MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS.

[0064] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises the additional filler(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Residual volatile solvent

[0065] Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises less than 0.5% by weight of residual volatile solvent(s) resulting from the wet preparation process, better still less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] The volatile solvents may be chosen from water, C2-C4 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, volatile cyclic or linear silicone oils and volatile hydrocarbon oils such as C8-C16 isoparaffins such as isododecane. Preferably, isoparaffins such as isododecane will be used. Oily phase

[0067] The composition of the invention comprises an oily phase. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20-25°C). It is organic and immiscible in water.

[0068] The oily phase (or fatty phase) of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil and optionally additional oils as well as ingredients soluble or miscible in the oils. It may consist of a single oil or a mixture of several oils.

[0069] The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions.

[0070] Oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0071] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, in particular organosiloxane.

[0072] The non-volatile oils may be chosen from the group consisting of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] The additional oils may be chosen from the group consisting of volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0074] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1,300 Pa.

[0075] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

[0076] The oily phase is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

[0077] As an example of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not such as Parleam, squalane; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether; - triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C[8 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or in- saturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oils, sunflower oils, grape seed oils, sesame (820.6 g / mol), corn oils, apricot oils, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; shea oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, C 12-C 15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate,isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate; , - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. In this respect, we may notably mention the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid / Butane diol Copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®, - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate, - esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference; - fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being able to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and - and their mixtures. Non-volatile silicone oils

[0078] As an example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: - phenyl silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and - polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: DIMETHICONE) with a viscosity at 25°C of 50 to 500 mm2 / s (est), in particular 100 est like the commercial products sold under the names BELSIL DM 100® from the company WACKER, DOWSIL SH 200 FLUID® 100 CST, XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID® 100CS by the company DOW CORNING; - their mixtures.

[0079] According to a particular form, the non-volatile oil or oils is (are) chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 50 to 500 mm2 / s, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] According to a particular form, the non-volatile oil or oils is (are) present in the composition of the invention in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile additional oils

[0081] The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise at least one volatile oil in an amount less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] In particular, the volatile oil or oils present in the composition of the invention are residual and originate from the wet process manufacturing process of the composition.

[0083] The volatile oils can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] As an example of volatile hydrocarbon oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-Ci6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by the company SHELL, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.

[0085] As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 mm2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0086] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises isododecane in an amount less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer

[0087] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, also called amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, preferably a block copolymer soluble or dispersible in the oily phase.

[0088] Such a copolymer can therefore play a gelling function for this oily phase.

[0089] The hydrocarbon block copolymer can in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial, star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.

[0090] Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in application US-A-2002 / 005562 and in patent US-A-5,221,534.

[0091] The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20°C, preferably less than or equal to 0°C, preferably less than or equal to -20°C, more preferably less than or equal to -40°C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150°C and 20°C, especially between 100°C and 0°C.

[0092] The hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is preferably an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

[0093] As an example of olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, having in particular one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene, or pentadiene.

[0094] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

[0095] Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units chosen from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or one of their mixtures.

[0096] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.

[0097] In particular, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and C3-C4 ethylene / alkylene blocks.

[0098] As diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene copolymers. Diblock polymers are notably sold under the name Kraton® G1701E by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0099] As triblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, mention may be made of styrene-ethylene / propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers, styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers. Triblock polymers are sold in particular under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® G1657®, Kraton® DI 101, Kraton® DI 102, Kraton® DI 160 by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0100] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is a hydrogenated styrene-ethylene / butylene-styrene triblock copolymer with the INCI name: HYDROGENATED STYRENE / BUTADIENE COPOLYMER such as the commercial product ELLAMERA TER SET 503® sold by the company Kraton Polymers.

[0101] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a content of from 0.5 to 5% by weight of active material of hydrocarbon block copolymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 0.5 to 2% by weight. Particulate coloring agent

[0102] The particulate coloring agent according to the invention is preferably chosen from: pigments, pearls, reflective particles and their mixtures.

[0103] A composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of particulate coloring agent(s) ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition Pigments

[0104] By “pigments” is meant particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

[0105] The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0106] Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, possibly surface treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

[0107] The organic pigments can be chosen from the materials below and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthenic, pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes.

[0108] Among the organic pigments, mention may in particular be made of the D&C certified pigments known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.

[0109] The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic coloring materials cited above are mentioned in the work "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997 Edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association", the content of which is incorporated into the present application by reference.

[0110] Pigments chosen from: - titanium dioxides (CI 77891) such as the commercial product HOMBITAN FF PHARMA® sold by the company VENATOR, - red iron oxides (CI 77491) such as the commercial product SUNPURO RED IRON OXIDE C33-8001® sold by the company SUN, - yellow iron oxides (CI 77492) such as the commercial product SUNPURO YELLOW IRON OXIDE C33-9001® sold by SUN; - black iron oxides (CI 77499) such as the commercial product SUNPURO BLACK IRON OXIDE C33-7001 sold by the company SUN, and - their mixtures such as the mixture of red and black iron oxides sold under the trade name UNIPURE RED LC 383® by the company SENSIENT. Mother-of-pearl

[0111] By “mother-of-pearl” we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0112] Examples of nacres include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[0113] The mother-of-pearls can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, green, blue, purple and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0114] As an illustration of the mother-of-pearls that can be introduced into the composition, mention may be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Brillant Gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR® 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange® (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite);copper-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); red-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-reflecting mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow® (4502) (Chromalite); red-tinted mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005®; (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver® and orange-pinkish-golden-green mother-of-pearl marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and their mixtures.

[0115] Still as an example of nacres, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

[0116] Particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY® by the company Toyal.

[0117] Finally, among the examples of mother-of-pearl which may also be mentioned, we may cite polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP 0.004X0.004® (silver flakes).

[0118] A composition according to the invention may comprise a nacre content ranging from 0 to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic emulsifying surfactants

[0119] According to a preferred form, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

[0120] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsifying surfactant” means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value, HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For the non-ionic emulsifying surfactants that can be used according to the invention, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.

[0121] The emulsifying surfactant(s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - ose esters and ethers such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, methyl glucose isostearate, sucrose (poly)palmitostearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose oleate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose laurate, sucrose hexaerucate, and mixtures thereof, for example Arlatone 2121® marketed by the company ICI or SPAN 65V® from the company UNIQEMA; - esters of fatty acids, in particular C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and of polyol, in particular of glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, for example sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, polyglycerolated diisostearate, polyglycerolated isostearate, polyglycerolated monostearate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS,, diethylene glycol (di-)laurate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, decaglyceryl pentadiisostearate, glyceryl caprate / caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 (iso-)stearate, and glyceryl (poly)ricinoleate; - oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated alcohols which may contain from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and preferably C12-C18, ethoxylated such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name "Steareth-2") such as BRU 72® marketed by the company UNIQEMA, oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol; - fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated silicone compounds, having for example from 3 to 20 oxyalkylenated units and in particular elastomeric or non-elastomeric oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated dimethicones; and mixtures thereof.

[0123] According to a particular form, the emulsifying non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8 is sorbitan isostearate with the INCI name: SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE such as the commercial product SPAN® 120 sold by the company CRODA. Preparation process (wet process)

[0124] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by a wet process comprising the following steps: - the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to prepare a slurry. - the said sludge is injected and then shaped in a container by compacting, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the final compact powder.

[0125] Preferably, a step of drying the molded mud in the container is also carried out. Mixing step

[0126] In this step, the components of the oily phase, the components of the powdery phase and the volatile solvent(s) are mixed to prepare the slurry which is a thick suspension of the powdery materials in the liquid formed by the oily phase and the volatile solvent(s).

[0127] According to a first variant, the components of the powder phase and those of the oily phase are mixed beforehand and then, in a second step, the volatile solvent(s) are added to the mixture obtained.

[0128] According to a second variant, the components of the oily phase and the volatile solvent(s) are mixed beforehand and then, in a second step, the components of the powdery phase are added to the mixture obtained.

[0129] According to a particular form of the invention, the quantity of oily phase and the quantity of powdery phase are such that the oily phase / powdery phase weight ratio varies from 20 / 80 to 45 / 55, preferably from 25 / 75 to 40 / 60.

[0130] The volatile organic solvents may be chosen from water, C2-C4 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethers such as dicaprylyl ether, volatile cyclic or linear silicone oils and hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins such as isododecane. Preferably, isoparaffins such as isododecane will be used.

[0131] According to the present invention, the mixing with the powder phase can be carried out with any type of mixer such as a Lodige type mixer.

[0132] According to a particular form of the invention, the mixed powder can also undergo grinding, for example with an Alpine-type pin mill or a cutting robot.

[0133] According to a particular form of the invention, the mixing of the volatile solvents can be carried out in any suitable container such as a bowl. It can be carried out in a planetary mixer. The required dispersion time is not limited and may depend on certain factors such as the type of mixer. For example, if a planetary mixer is used, the dispersion time may vary from 15 to 20 minutes.

[0134] The total amount of oily phase, powdery phase and volatile solvent is not limited. According to a particular form of the invention, the weight ratio of total amount of oily phase and powdery phase / amount of volatile solvent(s) may be 5 / 1, preferably 3 / 1, and more preferably 2 / 1.

[0135] If necessary, degassing may be carried out during the mixing step. The oil phase, the powder phase and the volatile solvent(s) may be mixed in a vacuum chamber. The degassing time may depend on certain factors such as the pressure in the vacuum chamber. It may vary from 15 to 20 minutes. It is preferable to agitate the mud for effective degassing. Shaping step

[0136] In this step, the sludge is injected and then shaped in a container such as a bucket or a mold by compaction, in particular pressing and / or suction. It is preferable to use

[0137] As a container, a cup or a bowl can be used. The container can have small orifices which only allow the solvent to escape by suction.

[0138] Methods of pouring the sludge into the container include injection through the upper part of the container (“top injection”) or injection through the rear part of the container (“back injection”).

[0139] According to the so-called “top injection” mode, the slurry is poured into the container above the container. This mode is particularly suitable for the preparation of multi-colored compact powders.

[0140] According to the so-called “back injection” method, the mud is injected through the bottom of the container using a suitable mechanism to introduce it into the container. In particular, a so-called Pilot Back Injection machine sold by the company NANYO CO.LTD is used.

[0141] This injection method is suitable for a wide range of compact makeup powders and is particularly suitable for obtaining a compact powder of complex shape. The slurry introduced into the container is molded by compression and / or suction. Preferably, compression and suction are carried out simultaneously.

[0142] Compaction, in particular pressing, can be carried out by exerting pressure on the slurry in the container by mechanical means such as a press having a flat or non-flat surface (possibility of relief). Suction can be carried out, for example, by reducing the pressure in the container by vacuum. Compaction, in particular pressing and suction can be repeated several times. If necessary, vibration can be applied to the container and / or the press. Drying stage

[0143] In this step, the molded slurry is dried to obtain a compact powder without volatile solvent or containing a very small amount of volatile solvent. By drying, the remaining volatile solvent(s) can be completely removed. The drying temperature and time depend on several factors such as the components of the composition and the type of volatile solvent used. For example, drying can be carried out at a temperature of 60 to 100°C for a period of 1 to 12 hours. Cosmetic process

[0144] The invention also relates to a method for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face or the eyelids, characterized in that it comprises the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

[0145] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a powder, a foundation, a blush or an eyeshadow.

[0146] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied by means of any applicator suitable for compact powders intended to be applied to the face or to the eyelids, such as a powder puff or a brush.

[0147] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. Together

[0148] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic set or kit comprising: (i) a container delimiting one or more compartments (d), said container being closed by a closing element and possibly being non-watertight; and ii) a makeup and / or care composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment(s).

[0149] The container may for example be in the form of a pot or a case. The closure element may be in the form of a lid comprising a cap mounted to be movable by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing said makeup and / or care composition(s).

[0150] Said cosmetic set can be associated with an applicator such as a powder puff, a foam applicator or a brush. Cosmetic additives

[0151] The composition may contain conventional cosmetic additives such as fat-soluble coloring matters, preservatives, perfumes, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, lipophilic active ingredients such as vitamins, lipophilic UV filters.

[0152] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. Fat-soluble coloring matters

[0153] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one liposoluble coloring matter and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly. with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of a person skilled in the art.

[0155] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

[0156] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin. Cosmetic applications

[0157] The composition used according to the invention may be a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular for the skin, cheeks and eyelids.

[0158] More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a skin care and / or makeup product, in particular for the face, cheeks or eyelids, and more particularly a foundation powder, a blusher or an eyeshadow.

[0159] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0160] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0161] The present invention also relates to a set, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0162] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a makeup set comprising: (i) an applicator ii) a composition in accordance with the invention placed inside a container.

[0163] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may for example be in the form of a tube.

[0164] Such an applicator may be integral with a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a position for closing said container and a makeup position.

[0165] Alternatively, such an applicator may be irreversibly mounted on said container. Examples of applicators include those of the felt-tip pen, brush, etc. which may be made of synthetic fibers.

[0166] It is understood that within the framework of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Throughout the application, the expression "has a" or "includes a" must be understood as meaning "having at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0168] It is understood that the following examples are provided for illustrative purposes and are in no way limiting of the scope of the protection conferred by the present application.

[0169] Examples 1 (invention) and examples 1a and 1b (outside the invention) of eyeshadows

[0170] The following compositions were prepared.

[0171] [Tableauxl] Phase Ingrédients Exl (invention) Ex la (hors invention) Ex 1b (hors invention ) A LAUROYL LYSINE (AMIHOPE LL® - AJINOMOTO) 5 5 5 BORON NITRIDE (SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE CC6058® - MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS) 3 3 3 SILICA (SOLASPHERE H-53®-Asahi Glass AGC SLTECH) 3 3 3 CALCIUM ALUMINUM BORO-SILICATE (LUXSIL COSMETIC MICROSPHERES® - POTTERS) 2 2 2 MAGNESIUM STEARATE 2 2 2 PERLITE (PERLITE-M SZ12® - Miyoshi Kase)i 33 0 0 MICA 0 0 33 TALC 0 33 0 B TITANIUM DIOXIDE (CI 77891) (HOMBITAN FF PHARMA® -VENATOR) 2,25 2,25 2,25 YELLOW IRON OXIDES (CI 77492) (SUNPURO YELLOW IRON OXIDE C33-9001® - SUN) 7,15 7,15 7,15 RED IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) (SUNPURO RED IRON OXIDE C33-8001® - SUN) 5,2 5,2 5,2 BLACK IRON OXIDES (CI 77499) (SUNPURO RED IRON OXIDE C33-7001® - SUN) 11 11 11 IRON OXIDES (CI 77491) (and) IRON OXIDES (CI 77499) (UNIPURE RED LC 383® -SENSIENT) 3,7 3,7 3,7 C DIMETHICONE 100 est (BELSIL DM 100® - WACKER) 7 7 7 HYDROGENATED POLY-ISOBUTENE 4,5 4,5 4,5 SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (SPAN-120®-CRODA) 0,1 0,1 0,1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0,5 0,5 0,5 HYDROGENATED STYRENE / BUTADIENE COPOLYMER (ELLAMERA TER SET 503® -KRATON POLYMERS) 0,9 0,9 0,9 C12-C15 ALKYL BENZOATE (BENZOATE DE C12 / C15 (DUB B1215) - STEARINERIE DUBOIS) 9,6 9,6 9,6 ISODODECANE 0,1 0,1 0,1 Protocole de préparation des compositions 1. Préparation des phases A et B

[0172] The ingredients of phase A and the pigments of phase B were weighed in a large stainless steel cup.

[0173] Phase A was ground in a food processor: 1 time for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm then 3 times for 1 minute at 3000 rpm. 2. Incorporation of phase C:

[0174] The ingredients of phase C (except isododecane) were heated (in a water bath at 75°C). When phase C had melted, it was stirred using a deflocculator until a vortex formed (approximately 300 rpm) and then it was introduced with stirring via the lid of the robot-coupe: 1 time per minute at 1500 rpm.

[0175] The whole thing was ground in the Robot-coupe: 1 time for 1 minute at 1500 rpm, then 2 times for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm and 1 time for 1 minute at 3000 rpm. 3. Preparation of the slurry:

[0176] The mixture obtained previously was diluted in a large quantity of isododecane in order to obtain the desired viscosity of the “powder / solvent” mixture. This paste was injected from below (back injection) into the cups using a so-called Pilot Back Injection machine sold by the company NANYO CO.LTD. 4. Mud injection:

[0177] The Back Injection machine made it possible to inject the “powder-solvent” mixture or slurry through the bottom of the cup and simultaneously suck up part of the dilution solvent. Throughout the injection of the product, the injection mold was placed under vacuum to allow the elimination of the isododecane which was sucked up and recovered in the vacuum trap. The vacuum thus made it possible to promote the filling of the cup and its homogenization.

[0178] The parts injected from below were then placed in a ventilated oven at 45°C until their weight no longer changed. The product was then considered dry.

[0179] Example 1c and 1d obtained by a conventional dry process (outside the invention)

[0180] The compositions of examples 1c and 1d, identical to compositions 1a and 1b, were prepared without isododecane in the following manner:

[0181] Protocol for the preparation of compositions Ic and Id by conventional dry process 1. Preparation of phases A and B

[0182] The ingredients of phase A and the pigments of phase B were weighed in a large stainless steel cup.

[0183] Phase A was ground in a food processor: 1 time for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm then 3 times for 1 minute at 3000 rpm. 2. Incorporation of phase C:

[0184] The ingredients of phase C, excluding isododecane, were heated (in a water bath at 75°C). When phase C had melted, it was stirred using a deflocculator until a vortex formed (approximately 300 rpm) and then it was introduced with stirring via the lid of the robot-coupe: 1 time per minute at 1500 rpm.

[0185] The whole thing was ground in the Robot-coupe: 1 time for 1 minute at 1500 rpm, then 2 times for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm and 1 time for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

[0186] 3. Compacting the powder by traditional press:

[0187] The bulk mixture was loaded, respecting a studied weight, into a bucket, itself placed in a support of its size. A fabric is placed on its surface and then an imprint of the size of the bucket. The assembly thus installed is pressed at a pressure of 40 kgf / cm2 to form an eye shadow in the form of a compacted powder.

[0188] This allowed us to obtain examples le (composition la with a classic pressing) and composition Id (composition 1b with a classic pressing). Measurement of impact resistance: Principle of measurement

[0189] The device for carrying out such a measurement called Machine per l'imballaggio - Drop test sold by the company Co Pack (ITALY) made it possible to carry out drop tests on solid compositions in the form of compact powder to measure their impact resistance. The drop height was 30cm. Using a ruler, the size of the support that holds the compact was fixed (depending on the size of the bucket) and then the compact was dropped using compressed air that opens the support. The number of drops necessary to break up the powder was measured.

[0190] The test was carried out on 5 cups. The drop test was considered satisfactory when the average number of drops was greater than or equal to 10. Measuring the pick up / pay off at the foam applicator

[0191] MATERIAL - Caressa® foam applicator (refl001486 - Kahn) - Supplale Support (manufacturer IDEMISTUPETROCHEMICAL, composition: collagen sheet with artificial relief glued to a fabric) - sample of powder already used at least once and not visually damaged - heating plate (ref PCMF400x600 - EKIUM). Principle of measurement

[0192] A piece of supplale is placed on the heating plate in order to temper it to 32°C. The product is taken by making a transverse movement 3 times, holding the applicator parallel to the surface of the powder and perpendicular to the direction of movement.

[0193] Then, the product was deposited on the supplale by performing a transverse movement 3 times, holding the applicator parallel to the surface of the supplale and perpendicular to the direction of movement. The application surface was approximately 3.5 cm in length and width of the applicator.

[0194] The result obtained was then rated on a scale of 0 to 5 according to the intensity in relation to pre-established limits. 5 is equivalent to very good 4 is equal to good 3 is equivalent to medium 2 equals mediocre 1 equals low 0 equals impossible.

[0195] A deviation of 1 is considered significant. Measuring pick up / pay off with a brush

[0196] MATERIAL

[0197] - EYESHADOW BRUSH M® brush applicator - SUQQU - Supplale® support (manufacturer IDEMISTUPETROCHEMICAL, composition: collagen sheet with artificial relief glued to a fabric) preheated on a heating plate at 32°C

[0198] - Cup already used at least once and not visually damaged Principle of measurement

[0199] A piece of supplale was placed on the heating plate in order to temper it to 32°C.

[0200] The product was taken by making a transverse movement 3 times, holding the brush at an angle of approximately 45° to the surface of the powder and parallel to the direction of movement.

[0201] Then, the product was deposited on the supplale by making a transverse movement 3 times, holding the brush at an angle of approximately 45° to the surface of the supplale and parallel to the direction of movement. The application surface was approximately 3.5 cm in length and width of the brush.

[0202] The result obtained was then noted on a scale of 0 to 5 according to intensity in relation to pre-established limits. 5 is equivalent to very good 4 is equal to good 3 is equivalent to medium 2 equals mediocre 1 equals low 0 equals impossible.

[0203] A deviation of 1 is considered significant. Assessment of Dullness

[0204] A matte finish assessment protocol was implemented on a panel of 10 experienced individuals. Matte finish is assessed in mass when the product is in its pot, then on the skin after application.

[0205] The panel gives a score from 0 to 5. 0 corresponds to a shiny powder. 5 corresponds to a matte powder. Sensoriality Assessment

[0206] An evaluation protocol was implemented on a panel of 10 experienced people, and the result concerning: - the texture of the powder, - the sensoriality and in particular the softness to the touch, the creaminess, the slipperiness when taken, - application (quantity taken, ease of application, adhesion to application), - the makeup result: uniformity, powdery effect, coverage, color effect, matte finish, comfort throughout the day, hold and ease of makeup removal of a composition according to the invention evaluated by the same people. Results

[0207] The panel gives a score from 0 to 10. 0 corresponds to a powder that does not satisfy any of the above parameters. 10 corresponds to a powder satisfying all the above parameters.

[0208] The results of the comparative tests are shown in the table below:

[0209] [Tables2] Evaluations Ext Ex la Ex 1b Ex le Ex Id Pick up / pay off with foam applicator 5 2 4 1 1 Pick up / pay off with brush 5 1 3 1 1 Impact resistance 15 10 10 1 1 Matteness evaluation 5 4 2 4 2 Sensory evaluation 10 5 6 1 1

[0210] The compact powder of Example 1 exhibited excellent pick-up / pay-off qualities both with a foam applicator and with a brush, as well as good impact resistance and excellent mattness.

Claims

Claims

1. Solid composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least: a) an oily phase in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said oily phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil and b) a pulverulent phase in an amount of at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; said pulverulent phase comprising at least: i) perlite; and ii) at least one spherical filler chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof; and iii) at least one particulate coloring agent; and c) at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer; and d) at least one pigment;said composition not containing talc particles or mica particles in free form and said composition being capable of being obtained by a wet preparation process comprising the following steps: 1) mixing the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent to form a slurry; and (2) injecting the slurry into a container and shaping it by compacting, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.;

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of powder phase varies from 50 to 85% by weight, better still from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to its total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising less than 0.5% by weight of residual volatile solvent(s) from the wet preparation process, better still less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to claim 3, where the volatile solvent is chosen from water, C2-C4 monoalcohols, ethers, cyclic or linear volatile silicone oils, volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from C8-C16 isoparaffins, and more particularly mainly isododecane.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising perlite in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 25 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the conformal inorganic spherical filler is selected from the group consisting of glass microbeads; silica microbeads, and mixtures thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the organic spherical filler of natural origin is chosen from spherical cellulose beads and / or microcrystalline celluloses in the form of spheres, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the spherical filler(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional filler.

10. A composition according to claim 9, wherein the additional filler is selected from C8-C22 N-acyl amino acid powders, boron nitride, magnesium stearate and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to claim 9 or 10, comprising the additional filler or fillers in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the oily phase is present in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the non-volatile oil or oils is (are) chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 50 to 500 mm2 / s, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof.

14. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the non-volatile oil(s) is (are) present in the composition of the invention in an amount of at least 10.0% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin.

16. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein said at least one amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C3-C4 alkylene blocks.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the particulate coloring agent is chosen from pigments, nacres, and mixtures thereof.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of particulate coloring agent(s) ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

20. Composition according to claim 19, where the pigments are chosen from - titanium dioxides (CI 77891), - red iron oxides (CI 77491), - yellow iron oxides (CI 77492); - black iron oxides (CI 77499), and - mixtures thereof.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one emulsifying non-ionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8, in particular sorbitan isostearate with the INCI name: SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation powder, a blush or an eyeshadow.

23. Cosmetic set or kit comprising: i) a container delimiting one or more compartments (d), said container being closed by a closing element and optionally being non-tight; and ii) a composition as defined according to any one of the claims- indications 1 to 22, arranged inside said compartment(s).

24. Process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 22.

25. Process for preparing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that it comprises at least the following steps: 1) the oily phase, the amorphous hydrocarbon block copolymer, the powder phase and at least one volatile solvent are mixed to form a slurry; and (2) the slurry is injected into a container and shaped by compacting, in particular pressing and / or suction to obtain a compact powder.