Silicone-free skincare formula for keratinous materials

Abstract

Silicone-Free Care Composition for Keratinous Materials. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) hydrogenated lecithin, b) at least one thickener selected from acrylic polymers and acrylamides, c) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and d) isopropyl isostearate, said composition being substantially silicone-free. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Silicone-free care composition for keratin materials

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0002] a) hydrogenated lecithin,

[0003] b) at least one thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers,

[0004] c) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and

[0005] d) isopropyl isostearate,

[0006] said composition being substantially free of silicone

[0007] Many skincare products, designed in particular to keep skin radiant and wrinkle-free for as long as possible, the hallmarks of youthful skin, have been developed. These products include one or more active ingredients that have demonstrated biological effectiveness against skin aging.

[0008] However, in addition to the benefits of these products on the skin, consumers also seek a pleasant sensory experience at the time of application, and / or after application. As a result, these products traditionally contain silicone compounds.

[0009] However, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.

[0010] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.

[0011] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0012] There is therefore in particular a need for new care compositions having a sensoriality comparable to existing care compositions, while being free of silicone compounds.

[0013] In particular, there is a need for care compositions free from silicone compounds having a sensoriality comparable to care compositions existing at the time of application, as well as a pleasant sensation after application.

[0014] Thus, the subject of the present invention is a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0015] a) hydrogenated lecithin,

[0016] b) at least one thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers,

[0017] c) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and

[0018] d) isopropyl isostearate,

[0019] said composition being substantially free of silicone.

[0020] Indeed, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that the specific association of lauroyl lysine or one of its salts and isopropyl isostearate makes it possible to solve the technical problems mentioned above. This association advantageously makes it possible to remove the silicone compounds without deteriorating the sensoriality of the composition, both during application and after application.

[0021] These compositions also include sustainable ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to environmental issues.

[0022] By “physiologically acceptable” is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0023] By "substantially free of silicone" is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone. By silicone is meant any silicone compound.

[0024] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. a) Hydrogenated lecithin

[0025] Lecithin mainly comprises phosphatidylcholines, molecules composed of a choline residue, a phosphate group, a glycerol residue and two C14-C24 fatty acid residues, generally different from each other.

[0026] The lecithin that may be used in the present invention need not necessarily be pure phosphatidylcholine, but may contain other phospholipids such as phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidyl inositol, as well as neutral fats from egg yolk, soybean, corn or rapeseed. The term "lecithin" refers to the overall composition which may contain other phospholipids and neutral fats in addition to phosphatidylcholine.

[0027] The hydrogenated lecithins usable in the present invention are: (1) the hydrogenated synthetic lecithin; and (2) hydrogenated natural lecithin obtained by extracting lecithin from egg yolk, soybean, corn, and rapeseed oil followed by hydrogenation. The iodine value of hydrogenated lecithin must be less than 10.

[0028] A hydrogenated lecithin suitable for the invention is, for example, marketed by NIKKOL under the reference LECINOL S 10.

[0029] Preferably, the hydrogenated lecithin is present in a content of between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.4% and 0.8% by weight.

[0030] b) Thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers

[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers.

[0032] By acrylic polymer is meant a polymer obtained from at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer.

[0033] By acrylamide polymer is meant a polymer obtained from at least one monomer comprising an acrylamide function, optionally substituted. Preferably, the acrylic polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamido propanesulfonic acid or one of its salts.

[0034] Preferably, the thickener is chosen from:

[0035] - homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F® or VERSICOL K® by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8® by the company CIBA-GEIGY, or polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type,

[0036] - copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their salt sodium salts under the names RETEN® by the company HERCULES, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F® by the company HENKEL,

[0037] - copolymers of acid (methacrylate / alkyl acrylate such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (Acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer),

[0038] - homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamido propane acid sulfonic acid (AMPS®, Lubrizol monomer) or one of its salts, such as for example

[0039] - partially neutralized polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid ammonia and highly crosslinked, marketed in particular by the company CLARIANT, for example under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS®;

[0040] - acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / acrylamide copolymers by example of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type marketed in particular by the company SEPPIC,

[0041] - acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / methacrylate copolymers polyoxyethylenated alkyl (crosslinked or not) including others of the ARISTOFLEX HMS, ARISTOFLEX TAC, ARISTOFLEX AVC type, marketed by the company CLARIANT,

[0042] - copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and acrylate of sodium, such as for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM® (CTFA name: HY-DROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER),

[0043] - copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as in particular that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS by the company SEPPIC, or the acrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as in particular that used in the commercial product sold under the name SEPINOV EMT 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: HY-DROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

[0044] - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by the company CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIME-THYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER).

[0045] Preferably, the thickener is chosen from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, copolymers based on acrylamido propanesulfonic acid or one of its salts, and any of their mixtures.

[0046] Preferably, the thickener is a mixture of at least one copolymer of (meth)acrylic acid and C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and at least one copolymer based on acrylamido propanesulfonic acid or one of its salts, advantageously is a mixture of a copolymer of acrylic acid and C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and a copolymer of ammonium acrylamido propanesulfonate and vinylpyrrolidone.

[0047] Preferably, the thickener is present in a content of 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.3% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.8% and 2% by weight, preferably between 1.0% and 1.5% by weight, advantageously between 1.1% and 1.5% by weight.

[0048] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention is substantially free of xanthan gum.

[0049] By "substantially free of xanthan gum" is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of xanthan gum. Preferably, the composition is completely free of xanthan gum.

[0050] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of polysaccharide biopolymers, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, locus gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose.

[0051] By "substantially free of polysaccharide biopolymers" is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of polysaccharide biopolymers. Preferably, the composition is completely free of polysaccharide biopolymers. c) Lauroyl lysine and its salts

[0052] The composition according to the invention comprises lauroyl lysine or one of its salts.

[0053] Lauroyl lysine refers to the compound of the following formula: O

[0054] When present in salt form, lauroyl lysine has, for example, the following formula: O

[0055] Lauroyl lysine is obtained by reaction of lauric acid and lysine. It is a

[0056]

[0057]

[0058]

[0059]

[0060]

[0061]

[0062]

[0063]

[0064]

[0065]

[0066] interesting ingredient for the formulation of cosmetic products such as makeup or skincare products. This compound typically comes in powder form. Lauroyl lysine or one of its salts is generally used as a filler and / or non-coloring base. Lauroyl lysine, for example, is marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL by Ajinomoto. Preferably, lauroyl lysine or one of its salts is present in a content of between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.4% and 0.8% by weight. d) Isopropyl isostearate The composition according to the invention comprises isopropyl isostearate, of the following formula: CH 5 Preferably, the isopropyl isostearate is present in a content of between 0.5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 3% and 8% by weight, preferably between 4% and 6% by weight, advantageously between 4.5% and 5% by weight. Fat phase Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase, in particular in the form of an oil. Oil is any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). Preferably, the oil is a non-volatile oil. By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used include: (i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, jojoba, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, almond oil and in particular sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, coconut oil; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,

[0067] (ii) synthetic ethers, for example linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE);

[0068] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures (mineral oils);

[0069] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or " Witconol TN® » by the company WITCO or « TEGOSOFT TN® » by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name « X-TEND 226® » by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate,2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis®” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as C12-C13 linear dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as C14-C15 linear dialkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates; ,

[0070] (y) fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched carbon chain and / or unsaturated having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpen- tadecanol;

[0071] (vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

[0072] (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;

[0073] (viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto and mixtures thereof.

[0074] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.005% to 15% by weight of oily phase relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 9% by weight.

[0075] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight of hydrocarbon oil of plant origin.

[0076] According to one embodiment, the composition is substantially free of jojoba oil.

[0077] By "substantially free of jojoba oil" is meant that the composition comprises less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight of jojoba oil. Preferably, the composition is completely free of jojoba oil. Aqueous phase

[0078] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0079] An aqueous phase contains water, and optionally at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water.

[0080] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water, such as: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water, Avène water.

[0081] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water, at 25°C.

[0082] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and their mixtures.

[0083] Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C10 alcohols, more preferably C1-C5, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0084] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, pentylene glycol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), polyethylene glycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The composition preferably comprises at least 50% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 60% by weight.

[0086] The composition preferably comprises from 50% to 90% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 60% to 89% by weight.

[0087] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 20% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight. Other ingredients

[0088] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably non-ionic.

[0089] Among the non-ionic surfactants, we can cite in particular:

[0090] - C8-C20 fatty acids, such as stearic acid,

[0091] - esters and ethers of oses such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and alcohols cetylstearyl like Montanov 68® from Seppic;

[0092] - ethoxylated methyl glucose esters, for example methyl sesquistearate PEG-20 glucose;

[0093] - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 groups oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) of glycerol;

[0094] - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 groups oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohols (in particular C8-C24 alcohol, and preferably C12-C18) such as oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”), oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Steareth-20”), oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7”) sold in particular under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS;

[0095] - fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and polyol, in particular glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate;

[0096] - esters, for example monoesters, diesters or triesters, preferably monoesters of fatty acid (in particular C8-C24 acid, and preferably C10-C20) and polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 10 glycerol units, for example polyglyceryl-4 caprate and polyglyceryl-2 oleate;

[0097] - alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide) which are preferably those whose number of ethylene oxide (EO) units varies from 2 to 200. For example, mention may be made of cetyl ether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth 100 and beheneth 100;

[0098] - polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and (1-30 PO) C16-C24 alkyl ethers polyoxy- propylene (C16-C24), for example PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30,

[0099] - polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or po- lyoxypropylenated), for example PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, possibly in association with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by the company Croda under the name Arlacel 165®;

[0100] - esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, for example sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by Croda Company under the name Crodesta F50, F70, Fl 10 and F160®;

[0101] - fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, notably sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate, notably sold under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company ICI UNIQUEMA;polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT S® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT O® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by the company SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L® sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT I® from the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, ;

[0102] - fatty acid esters (especially C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20 sold in particular under the name Tween 20® by the company CRODA, polysorbate 60 sold in particular under the name Tween 60® by the company CRODA,

[0103] and their mixtures.

[0104] The composition may contain one or more of the active ingredients or excipients usual in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as moisturizing agents; emollients; active ingredients; antioxidants; perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; sequestering agents; electrolytes; pH adjusters; fillers; preservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts and mixtures thereof. The quantities of these different excipients are those conventionally used in the fields considered. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and may, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0105] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible active ingredient(s) or excipient(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0106] According to one embodiment, the composition is substantially free of perlite.

[0107] By "substantially free of perlite" is meant that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight of perlite. Preferably, the composition is completely free of perlite.

[0108] The composition in accordance with the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner by a person skilled in the art.

[0109] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

[0110] The expressions “between ... and ...”, “ranging from ... to ...” and “varies from ... to ...”, “less than ...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0111] Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0112] EXAMPLES

[0113] Example 1: Preparation of the composition according to the invention C2 and of the comparative compositions C1*, C3* and C4*

[0114] The composition according to the invention C2 and the comparative compositions Cl*, C3* and C4* are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the following protocol:

[0115] The fatty phase containing the surfactants is heated to 75°C, then the aqueous phase is slowly incorporated, and cooling is started. The polymers are dispersed then neutralized. The active ingredients, then the fillers, then the alcohol are then added in stages then dispersed, at room temperature, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0116] The quantities of each ingredient are expressed in mass ratio relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] [Tableauxl] Ingredient Cl* (% w / w) (comparative) C2 (% w / w) (invention) C3* (% w / w) (comparative) C4* (% w / w) (comparative) Fat phase 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 Cetearyl alcohol (Et) Cetearyl glucoside 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Hydrogenated lecithin 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Glycerin 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Active 18.00 18.00 18.00 18.00 AMMONIUM ACRY- LOYLDIMETHYLTAURA TE / VP COPOLYMER 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Potassium Hydroxide 0.13 0.13 0.13 0.13 Alcohol Denat. 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Silicones 4.80 Isopropyl Isostearate 4.80 4.80 Jojoba Seed Oil 4.80 Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate 0.50 Lauroyl Lysine 0.50 0.50 Perlite 0.50

[0118] Example 2: Evaluation of the composition according to the invention C2 and of the comparative compositions Cl*, C3* and C4*

[0119] The composition according to the invention C2 and the comparative compositions Cl*, C3* and C4* were tested by a panel of testers, who were asked to evaluate six parameters using 11-point rating scales ranging from 0 to 10.

[0120] The parameters evaluated are as follows:

[0121] - Ease of application: 0 if the formula is very easy to apply and 10 if it is very difficult

[0122] - Slippery on application: 0 if very slippery and 10 if very braking

[0123] - Penetration speed - 0 if very slow penetration and 10 if very fast penetration

[0124] - Leaves skin sticky: 0 if the skin was not sticky and 10 if the skin was very sticky

[0125] - Leaves skin oily: 0 if the skin is not oily and 10 if the skin is very oily

[0126] - Leaves the skin fresh: 0 if the skin is not fresh and 10 if it is very fresh.

[0127] The results obtained are shown in the following table. The scores of compositions C2, C3* and C4* are expressed in relation to the scores of composition Cl*.

[0128] [Tables2] Cl* (comparative) C2 vs. Cl* (invention) C3* vs. Cl* (comparative) C4* vs. Cl* (comparative) Ease of application 2.08 + 0.38 + 1.62 + 1.00 Slip on application 3.38 + 0.69 + 1.62 + 1.54 Penetration speed 5.92 + 1.08 + 2.23 + 1.92 Leaves skin sticky 4.69 + 1.54 + 3.71 + 3.00 Leaves skin oily 4.15 + 1.31 + 2.62 + 2.38 Leaves skin fresh 5.08 + 0.58 + 1.83 + 1.83

[0129] These results demonstrate that only composition C2 according to the invention, comprising lauroyl lysine and isopropyl isostearate, makes it possible to obtain a composition free of silicone but providing a sensoriality almost identical to composition Cl* comprising silicones.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) hydrogenated lecithin, b) at least one thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers, c) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and d) isopropyl isostearate, said composition being substantially free of silicone.

2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrogenated lecithin is present in a content of between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 4% by weight, preferentially between 0.1% and 3% by weight, preferentially between 0.2% and 2% by weight, preferentially between 0.3% and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.4% and 0.8% by weight.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the thickener is chosen from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, copolymers based on acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid or one of its salts, and any of their mixtures.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the thickener is present in a content of between 0.1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.3% and 5% by weight, preferentially between 0.5% and 3% by weight, preferentially between 0.8% and 2% by weight, preferentially between 1.0% and 1.5% by weight, advantageously between 1.1% and 1.5% by weight.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the lauroyl lysine or one of its salts is present in a content of between 0.05% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 4% by weight, preferentially between 0.1% and 3% by weight, preferentially between 0.2% and 2% by weight, preferentially between 0.3% and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.4% and 0.8% by weight.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the isopropyl isostearate is present in a content of between 0.5% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1% and 15% by weight, preferably preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 3% and 8% by weight, preferably between 4% and 6% by weight, advantageously between 4.5% and 5% by weight.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, being completely free of silicone.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 4% by weight of hydrocarbon oil of vegetable origin, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, being substantially free of jojoba oil.

10. A composition according to any preceding claim, being substantially free of xanthan gum, preferably substantially free of polysaccharide biopolymers.

11. A composition according to any preceding claim, in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

12. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.