KERATINOUS FIBERS TREATMENT PROCESS
A two-composition process using polyols and glyoxylic acid with heating addresses the limitations of existing hair reshaping methods, offering long-lasting results with reduced damage and odor, enhancing the manageability of keratinous fibers.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2023009000
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2023-08-28
- Publication Date
- 2025-10-17
- Estimated Expiration
- 2033-08-28
AI Technical Summary
Existing methods for reshaping keratinous fibers, such as hair, either provide short-lasting styles or involve long processing times, damage, and unpleasant odors due to the use of reducing and oxidizing agents.
A process involving the application of two compositions, A and B, where composition A contains a polyol and composition B includes glyoxylic acid and a ketoacid, without using reducing or oxidizing agents, followed by heating to temperatures above 50°C, to achieve long-lasting remodeling of keratinous fibers.
The process provides improved, long-lasting remodeling effects with reduced damage and odor, allowing for easier management of keratinous fibers, while maintaining the remodeled shape even after multiple shampoos.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATINOUS FIBERS Technical field
[0001] The present invention mainly relates to a process for treating, preferably remodeling and, more preferably, smoothing, keratinous fibers such as hair. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Reshaping keratinous fibers such as hair by heating the keratinous fibers with an iron is common, making unruly keratinous fibers manageable and reducing the volume and improving the appearance of the keratinous fibers. Such a reshaping method using a heated iron is convenient for quick styling, but the hairstyle only lasts for a short period, for example until the next shampoo. Many consumers need a long-lasting reshaping method.
[0003] On the other hand, conventional permanent remodeling methods using a reducing agent and an alkaline agent, as well as an oxidizing agent, with heating, can provide keratin fibers with long-lasting styling, but they have several disadvantages such as long processing time, damage to keratin fibers and bad odor.
[0004] So far, some processes for remodeling keratinous fibers without using reducing agent and oxidizing agent have been reported.
[0005] For example, US-A-2023 / 0000742 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening composition in liquid form with an aqueous base, or in emulsion form with a fatty phase, comprising 15 to 20% by weight of glyoxylic acid and 0.1 to 5% by weight of levulinic acid.
[0006] Furthermore, JP-A-2019-123701 discloses a method for treating hair including 1. a step of applying a hair treatment agent to the hair, containing (a) 13-30% by mass levulinic acid and (b) 1-2% by mass glyoxylic acid, the total content of levulinic acid and glyoxylic acid being 15% by mass or more and the pH being 1.5-3.0; 2. a step of leaving the hair; 3. a step of washing the hair with water; and 4. a step of straightening hair with a styler or a straightening iron, a brush and others at a certain temperature simultaneously with or after drying hair.
[0007] Furthermore, JP-A-2020-164443 discloses a hair treatment agent used by mixing and simultaneously using 2 or more hair treatment agents selected from (a) a hair treatment agent containing glyoxylic acid, (b) a hair treatment agent for adjusting the (a) hair treatment agent, and (c) a hair treatment agent containing a dyestuffing agent, to suppress hair color change without altering the shine and texture of the hair.
[0008] Furthermore, US-A-2012-312317 discloses a semi-permanent hair straightening process, comprising:
[0009] a) applying a solution comprising an alpha-keto acid operable as a buffering agent;
[0010] b) keeping the solution in contact with the hair for 15 to 120 minutes;
[0011] c) drying the hair, and
[0012] d) straightening the hair with a hair straightener at a temperature of approximately 200 + / -50 °C. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0013] There is still a need to improve the process of remodeling keratinous fibers.
[0014] An objective of the present invention is to provide an improved process for remodeling keratinous fibers such as hair, which can provide the keratinous fibers with improved remodeling effects with longer durability.
[0015] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process of remodeling, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of a composition A to keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises:
[0016] (a) at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the weight total of composition A, i. the application of a composition B to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition B comprises:
[0017] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0018] (c) at least one compound, different from the (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of in ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures, and i. optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, after steps (i) and (ii) are completed,
[0019] wherein the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).
[0020] The (a) polyol may be chosen from linear alkyl type polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0021] The amount of the (a) polyol(s) in composition A may be from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 35% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0022] The amount of the (b) compound(s) in the composition B according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition B.
[0023] The (c) compound may be selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.
[0024] The amount of the (c) compound in composition B may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0025] The weight ratio of the (b) compound(s) to the (c) compound(s) included in composition B may range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:1.
[0026] The pH of composition B may be 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less.
[0027] The process according to the present invention may not include an application of ammonia or thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.
[0028] The process according to the present invention may not include an application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.
[0029] Composition A may further comprise at least one monoalcohol, preferably comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0030] The amount of the monoalcohol(s) in composition A may be from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight and, more preferably, from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0031] Composition A may comprise water in an amount of less than 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A, or else composition A is free of water.
[0032] The present invention may also relate to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0033] a composition A, comprising: a. at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the total weight of composition A; and
[0034] a composition B, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures.
[0035] The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, in which
[0036] composition A comprises: a. at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the total weight of composition A; and
[0037] composition B comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures. Best mode for carrying out the invention
[0038] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a process for remodeling keratinous fibers, which can provide keratinous fibers with improved remodeling effects with longer durability, with the applications of two different compositions, a composition A and a composition B, wherein composition A comprises at least one polyol, and composition B comprises at least one glyoxylic acid or a derivative thereof and at least one ketoacid or salts thereof.
[0039] Thus, the present invention also relates to a process for remodeling, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of a composition A to keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises:
[0040] (a) at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the weight total of composition A, i. the application of a composition B to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition B comprises:
[0041] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0042] (c) at least one compound, different from the (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of in ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures, i. optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, after both steps (i) and (ii) are finished,
[0043] wherein the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).
[0044] The present invention can improve a remodeling process of keratinous fibers such as hair, with the applications of two different compositions of composition A and composition B, providing improved remodeling effects.
[0045] The remodeling of keratinous fibers, such as hair, herein includes the straightening or curling of the keratinous fibers.
[0046] The present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with longer-lasting remodeling, preferably smoothing, effects. Thus, the present invention can lengthen or prolong the smoothing effects for keratinous fibers. In particular, the present invention can further maintain the remodeled shape of the keratinous fibers, or can prevent or reduce the loss of the remodeled shape of the keratinous fibers over time.
[0047] For example, if the keratinous fibers are originally wavy, the present invention may provide better prevention against a return of the keratinous fibers to their original wavy shape, after remodeling of the keratinous fibers, in particular after shampooing.
[0048] The present invention can cause less damage to keratinous fibers compared to conventional remodeling processes, because the present invention does not need to use any reducing / oxidizing agent. Therefore, it can be easy to comb the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention. Thus, the keratinous fibers treated by the present invention can be easy to manage.
[0049] Furthermore, the present invention can use little or no ammonia or thiol compound, and therefore, the odor during the use of the present invention can be reduced compared to conventional processes that require the use of ammonia or a thiol compound. In addition, the present invention can have good ease of use, for example, a short processing time.
[0050] The present invention will now be described in detail. [Process]
[0051] The present invention relates to a process for remodeling, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the following steps: i. application of a composition A to the keratinous fibers, in which composition A comprises:
[0052] (a) at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the weight total of composition A, i. the application of a composition B to the keratinous fibers, in which the composition B comprises:
[0053] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0054] (c) at least one compound, different from the (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of in ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures, i. optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, after both steps (i) and (ii) are finished,
[0055] wherein the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).
[0056] The process according to the present invention is intended for the remodeling of keratinous fibers, such as hair, preferably for remodeling for a long period and more preferably, for remodeling even after several shampoos. In this sense, the process according to the present invention may be a semi-permanent remodeling process. {Step (i)}
[0057] Step (i) consists of applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers. Composition A will be described in detail later.
[0058] The application of composition A can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
[0059] The bath ratio of composition A applied to the keratinous fibers can range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.
[0060] The amount of composition A applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g per 1 g of keratinous fibers.
[0061] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are cleaned before step (i). This cleaning step may be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers and then rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are wet just before step (i). The cleaning step is preferably carried out once before the process of the present invention is carried out.
[0062] It may be possible, after the application of composition A, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 10 hours, preferably from 5 seconds to 5 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 3 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition A to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0063] Composition A may or may not be rinsed from the keratinous fibers after step (i). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition A from the keratinous fibers after step (i). {Step (ii)}
[0064] Step (ii) consists of applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers. Composition B will be described in detail later.
[0065] The application of composition B can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
[0066] The bath ratio of composition B applied to the keratinous fibers may range from 0.1 to 10, more particularly from 0.5 to 5, and is preferably between 0.3 and 2, respectively. The expression "bath ratio" is intended to designate the weight ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of the keratinous fibers.
[0067] The amount of composition B applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.1 g to 1 g per 1 g of keratinous fibers.
[0068] In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are cleaned before step (ii). This cleaning step may be carried out, for example, by shampooing the keratinous fibers and then rinsing the keratinous fibers. After rinsing, the keratinous fibers may be dried. It is preferable that the keratinous fibers are wetted just before step (ii).
[0069] It may be possible, after the application of composition B, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; generally from 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably from 5 seconds to 20 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to 15 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow composition B to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0070] Composition B may or may not be rinsed from the keratinous fibers after step (ii). In one embodiment of the present invention, the keratinous fibers are rinsed with water to rinse the applied composition B from the keratinous fibers after step (ii).
[0071] In a preferred embodiment, there is no cleaning step between steps (i) and (ii).
[0072] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (i) and then step (ii) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii).
[0073] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (ii) and then step (i) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i).
[0074] In another preferred embodiment, the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) then step (i) in that order. For this embodiment, it is preferable that there is no rinsing step between step (i) and step (ii) and that there is a rinsing step between step (ii) and step (i). {Step (iii)}
[0075] Step (iii) is an optional step. Step (iii) consists of heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C. Step (iii) can be carried out once both steps (i) and (ii) are completed.
[0076] In one embodiment, the keratinous fibers are dried just before step (iii). The drying of the keratinous fibers can be carried out with a conventional drying means such as a hair dryer.
[0077] In step (iii), the keratinous fibers, which are preferably dry, are subjected to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, with a heating element, preferably a heating iron. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C, and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0078] Heating may be carried out using conventional means, such as the application of a heated iron or curling iron, or a hair dryer.
[0079] In addition, the reshaping may be performed by providing the keratinous fibers with any mechanical force such as mechanical tension. The mechanical tension may be applied to the keratinous fibers by any reshaping means to deform the keratinous fibers into a desired shape. For example, the mechanical power may be provided by at least one reshaping means selected from the group consisting of at least one curling iron, at least one hair curler, and a combination thereof. Any conventional iron or hair curler may be used as the reshaping means.
[0080] The fitness means may comprise at least one heater. Thus, the The reshaping means may be at least one heating iron and / or at least one heating curler. By reshaping the keratinous fibers, the keratinous fibers may be straightened or curled. Thus, the process according to the present invention may be for straightening or curling keratinous fibers, such as hair.
[0081] As a heating iron, any conventional heating iron can be used. The heating iron may have at least one plate, preferably two plates, which can be heated, for example, by electric heating. The heated plate(s) can be applied to the keratinous fibers and moved along the direction of the keratinous fibers to smooth them.
[0082] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that the keratinous fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved along the direction of the keratinous fibers to smooth them.
[0083] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably, of more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably, of more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0084] Step (iii) can be carried out by one or more passes of the heating iron along the direction of the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) can be controlled not only by the temperature of the heating iron but also by the number of passes of the heating iron.
[0085] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heating iron, but also on the number of passes of the heating iron. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably, from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0086] As a heated curler, any conventional heated curler can be used. If the keratin fibers are wound around a heated curler, this winding can be carried out over the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, over half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending, for example, on the desired hairstyle shape and the amount of curls, the winding can be carried out with more or less thick strands.
[0087] It is preferable that the heated curler, in particular a portion thereof in contact with keratinous fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably, more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and even more preferably, more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0088] Step (iii) may be carried out by holding the keratinous fibers on a heated curler so that mechanical tension is applied to the keratinous fibers. Step (iii) may be controlled not only by the temperature of the heated curler but also by the force of mechanical tension.
[0089] The heating time may depend on the temperature of the heated curler but also on the strength of the mechanical tension. It may be, for example, from 1 second to 10 minutes and preferably from a few seconds to 5 minutes.
[0090] If necessary, before step (iii), mechanical tension can be applied to the keratinous fibers as explained above.
[0091] The details of the compositions used in the process according to the present invention will be explained below. Composition A
[0092] Composition A of the present invention comprises:
[0093] (a) at least one polyol.
[0094] (Shape)
[0095] Composition A used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.
[0096] Composition A of the present invention is preferably in the form of an alcoholic solution, and more preferably a non-aqueous alcoholic solution.
[0097] Composition A used for the present invention may be in any galenic form. For example, composition A used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, lotion, gel and the like.
[0098] (a) Polyol
[0099] Composition A in the process according to the present invention comprises at least one (a) polyol. Two or more polyols may be included in composition A. Thus, a single type of (a) polyol or a combination of different types of (a) polyols may be used in composition A.
[0100] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” must be understood as designating any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0101] The polyol suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear, branched or cyclic alkyl type, saturated or unsaturated, comprising at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
[0102] Preferably, the (a) polyol which can be used in composition A according to the invention is a compound of linear or branched alkyl type, preferably linear carrying at least two -OH functions, preferably 2 to 5 -OH functions, more preferably 2 to 4 -OH functions, and even more preferably 2 or 3 -OH functions on the alkyl chain.
[0103] The polyols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of composition A of the present invention are those comprising in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms or for example from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0104] The polyols which can be used in composition A of the present invention are chosen from linear or branched polyols, preferably linear polyols comprising from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; in particular: • diols such as hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol; and • triols, such as glycerol (glycerin),
[0105] and mixtures thereof.
[0106] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) polyol is selected from linear alkyl type polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
[0107] The (a) polyol(s) is (are) included in composition A in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the total weight of composition A. The (a) polyol(s) may be present in an amount of 20% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more, and more preferably 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0108] The (a) polyol(s) may be present in a content of 90% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less and, more preferably 70% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0109] The amount of the (a) polyol(s) in composition A according to the present invention may be from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 35% to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. -Monoalcohol
[0110] Composition A according to the present invention may or may not comprise at least one monoalcohol. Two or more types of monoalcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monoalcohol or a combination of different types of monoalcohols may be used in composition A.
[0111] The monoalcohol herein may be a water-soluble hydrophilic monoalcohol. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more based on the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0112] The monoalcohol can be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol. comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, carrying only one hydroxyl function (OH).
[0113] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0114] The term “aliphatic monoalcohol” here designates any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound, comprising only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
[0115] The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) present in composition A of the invention may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.
[0116] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.
[0117] The monoalcohol(s) may be present in an amount of 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more and, more preferably, 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0118] The monoalcohol(s) may be present in an amount of 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A.
[0119] The amount of the monoalcohol(s) in composition A according to the present invention may be from 5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight and, more preferably, from 15% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. Composition B
[0120] Composition B of the present invention comprises:
[0121] (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and
[0122] (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of in ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures.
[0123] (Shape)
[0124] Composition B used for the present invention may be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.
[0125] Composition B of the present invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion, and more preferably an O / W emulsion.
[0126] The composition B used for the present invention may be in any galenic form. For example, the compositions used for the present invention may be in the form of any treatment for hair in general, such as a cream, a lotion, a gel and the like.
[0127] (pH)
[0128] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and more preferably 5 or less, which is measured at 25°C.
[0129] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 or higher, which is measured at 25°C.
[0130] Composition B used for the present invention may have a pH of 3 to 7, preferably 3 to 6 and more preferably 3 to 5, which is measured at 25°C.
[0131] The ingredients of composition B are described in detail below.
[0132] (b) Glyoxylic acid and its derivatives
[0133] Composition B of the present invention comprises (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof.
[0134] A single type of (b) compound may be used, or two or more different types of (b) compounds may be used in combination.
[0135] The (b) compound is selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof. In other words, the (b) compound is selected from glyoxylic acid and derivatives thereof.
[0136] As glyoxylic acid solvates, mention may be made, for example, of glyoxylic acid hydrates such as glyoxylic acid monohydrate.
[0137] Examples of salts of glyoxylic acid that may be mentioned are alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of glyoxylic acid such as sodium or potassium glyoxylate, and magnesium or calcium glyoxylate.
[0138] Examples of glyoxylic acid esters that may be mentioned are glyoxylic acid alkyl esters such as methyl glyoxylate and ethyl glyoxylate.
[0139] Examples of glyoxylic acid amides that may be mentioned include N-glyoxyloylcarbocysteine and N-glyoxyloyl keratin amino acids.
[0140] It is preferable to use glyoxylic acid as (b) compound.
[0141] The quantity of the (b) compound(s) in composition B according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] The amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention is less than 25% by weight, preferably less than 20% by weight, and more preferably less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0143] Thus, the amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0144] In another embodiment, the amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight and, more preferably, greater than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0145] Thus, in this embodiment, the amount of the (b) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be greater than 3% and less than 25% by weight, preferably greater than 5% and less than 20% by weight, and more preferably greater than 10% and less than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0146] (c) ketoacid
[0147] Composition B of the present invention comprises (c) at least one compound, different from the (b) compound, selected from ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures. Two or more (c) compounds may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (c) compound or a combination of different types of (c) compounds may be used.
[0148] The keto acids may be selected from α-keto acids, β-keto acids, γ-keto acids and mixtures thereof.
[0149] The α-keto acids may be compounds represented by the general formula (I):
[0150] R'-C(=O)-COOH (I)
[0151] in which
[0152] R1 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.
[0153] Examples of α-ketoacid include pyruvic acid.
[0154] The [3-keto acids] can be represented by the general formula (II):
[0155] R2-C(=O)-R3-COOH (II)
[0156] in which
[0157] R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and
[0158] R3 denotes a methylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.
[0159] Examples of [3-ketoacid] include acetoacetic acid.
[0160] γ-keto acids can be represented by the general formula (III):
[0161] R2-C(=O)-R4-COOH (III)
[0162] in which
[0163] R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, optionally substituted by an OH, COOH or halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom; and
[0164] R4 denotes an ethylene group, optionally substituted by a halogen atom such as a chlorine or bromine atom.
[0165] Examples of γ-keto acids include levulinic acid.
[0166] The ketoacid salts may be alkali metal salts or alkaline earth metal salts of ketoacid such as sodium or potassium salts of ketoacid, and magnesium or calcium salts of ketoacid.
[0167] It is preferable to use, as (c) compound(s), a γ-ketoacid, and more preferably, levulinic acid and / or a salt thereof such as sodium levulinate.
[0168] The amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition b of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0169] The amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention is 10% by weight or less, preferably 8% by weight or less, and more preferably 6% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0170] Thus, the amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0171] In one embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0172] Thus, in one embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound(s) in the com position B according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0173] In another embodiment, the amount of the (c) compound(s) in composition B of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight and, more preferably, from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition B.
[0174] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) compound(s) is (are) present in a lower amount than the (b) compound(s) in composition B. For example, the weight ratio of the (b) compound(s) to the (c) compound(s) included in composition B may range from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:1.
[0175] (Other optional ingredients) - Water
[0176] Compositions A and B according to the present invention may or may not comprise water, respectively.
[0177] Composition A preferably includes water in a small amount or does not include water. For example, the amount of water in composition A of the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of composition A. In one embodiment, composition A is free of water. In this embodiment, composition A is anhydrous.
[0178] Composition B of the present invention preferably comprises water. Thus, composition B according to the present invention is preferably not anhydrous.
[0179] The amount of water in composition B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0180] Furthermore, the amount of water in composition B according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0181] The amount of water in composition B of the present invention may be from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. - Alkaline agent
[0182] Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may or may not comprise
[0183]
[0184]
[0185]
[0186]
[0187]
[0188]
[0189]
[0190] not include at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used. In one embodiment of the present invention, composition A does not comprise any alkaline agent, while composition B comprises at least one alkaline agent. The alkali agent may be an inorganic alkali agent. It is preferable that the alkali agent be non-volatile. It is preferable that the inorganic alkali agent be selected from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, phosphates and alkali metal monohydrogen phosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate. Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkali agent, sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are preferable. The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent is selected from the group consisting of monoamines and diamines. Examples of monoamines include alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl groups (C1-C4). In particular, the alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane. Diamines can be described in structure (B) below: R R. kl wherein W denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, an example of which may be 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof. The amount of the alkaline agent(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0191] Furthermore, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0192] Thus, the amount of the alkaline agent(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Oil
[0193] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0194] Herein, "oil" means a fatty compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste or a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics may be used alone or in combination. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0195] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0196] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.
[0197] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0198] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0199] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0200] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0201] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, we can cite palmitate ethyl, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0202] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C4-C26 non-sugar dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0203] Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol dii-sononanoate.
[0204] As ester oils, esters and diesters of sugars of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates compounds based on hydrocarbons carrying oxygen containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0205] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0206] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C12-C22*. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0207] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
[0208] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0209] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0210] An example that may be mentioned is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0211] Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, stearate isocetyl, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0212] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0213] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0214] Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0215] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0216] Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0217] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0218] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 with 5 silicon atoms. This is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecame-ethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the di-methylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula: |— D" - D'--D" - D' — ch3 ----------------------- with D”: — Si - O — and with D': CH,
[0219] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
[0220] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5x106 m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is deca-methyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.
[0221] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0222] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be mentioned, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • oils from the Mirasil® range sold by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning 200 range oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0223] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 range from the company Rhodia.
[0224] Among the silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia; • oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer’s PK range, such as the PK20 product; • certain oils from the General Electric SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0225] Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain poly-ethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.
[0226] The hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:
[0227] - lower alkanes C6-C16, linear or branched, optionally cyclic. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, e.g. isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.
[0228] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or vaseline, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0229] It is preferable that the oil is chosen from polar oils, more preferably ester oils, and even more preferably monoester oils.
[0230] The amount of the oil(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.8% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0231] Furthermore, the amount of the oil(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0232] Thus, the quantity of the oil(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 0.8% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. -Fatty alcohol
[0233] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one fatty alcohol. A single type of fatty alcohol may be used, or two or more different types of fatty alcohol may be used in combination.
[0234] In one embodiment, compositions B of the present invention comprise at least one fatty alcohol, but composition A does not comprise the fatty alcohol.
[0235] The term "fatty" herein means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0236] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl groups. R may be substituted or not by at least one hydroxyl group.
[0237] As non-limiting examples of (h) fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
[0238] Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
[0239] Fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohols may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.
[0240] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).
[0241] It is preferable that the (h) fatty alcohol is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
[0242] The amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more pre- preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the compositions.
[0243] Furthermore, the amount of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0244] Thus, the quantity of the fatty alcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be between 0.5% and 20% by weight, preferably between 1% and 15% by weight, and more preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. -Non-ionic surfactant
[0245] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one nonionic surfactant. A single type of nonionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.
[0246] In one embodiment, the compositions B of the present invention comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant.
[0247] Non-ionic surfactants are compounds well known in themselves (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178). Thus, they may, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and comprising at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, knowing that the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups may range from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups may range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Mention may also be made, in a non-limiting manner, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of alkylpolyglycosides (C6-C24) of glycerol; N-alkylglucamine (C6-C24) derivatives, amine oxides such as alkylamine (C10-C14) oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine (C10-C14) oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
[0248] The non-ionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or poly- non-ionic surfactants. glycerolated. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or their combination, and are preferentially oxyethylene units.
[0249] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants which may be cited:
[0250] Monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated alkylphenols (C8-C24),
[0251] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols,
[0252] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides,
[0253] esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of monoalkylene glycol or polyalkylene glycols,
[0254] monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol,
[0255] saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated vegetable oils, and
[0256] condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixture.
[0257] The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and preferably between 1 and 20.
[0258] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from a mono-oxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol), a monooxyethylenated fatty ester (ethylene glycol ester of fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.
[0259] Examples of monooxyalkylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include glycol distearate.
[0260] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants may be chosen from a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol), a polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty acid), and mixtures thereof.
[0261] As an example of polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols), mention may be made of adducts of ethylene oxide on lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Laureth-2 to Laureth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Steareth-2 to Steareth-20); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those comprising from 2 to 20 oxyethylenated units (CTFA names Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20) and mixtures thereof.
[0262] Examples of unsaturated polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be cited include adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, particularly those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (Oleth-2 to Oleth-20, as CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
[0263] It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyalkylenated non-ionic surfactants, and even more preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols.
[0264] The amount of the anionic surfactant(s) in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.25% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0265] Furthermore, the amount of the anionic surfactant(s) in each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0266] Thus, the amount of the surfactant(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. - Polyol
[0267] Composition B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one polyol. A single type of polyol may be used, or two or more different types of polyols may be used in combination.
[0268] The polyol which may be included in the treatment composition is the same as the (a) polyol explained above, and the same explanations may be applied.
[0269] The polyol(s) may be present in composition B of the present invention in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0270] The polyol(s) may be present in composition B of the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0271] The amount of the polyol(s) in composition B of the present invention may be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. -Monoalcohol
[0272] Each of compositions A and B of the present invention may or may not comprise at least one monoalcohol. A single type of monoalcohol may be used, or two or more different types of monoalcohols may be used in combination.
[0273] In one embodiment, both compositions A and B of the present invention comprise at least one monoalcohol.
[0274] The monoalcohol herein may be a water-soluble hydrophilic monoalcohol. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" means that a substance is soluble in water at a concentration of 1% by weight or more based on the total weight of water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).
[0275] The monoalcohol may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, carrying only one hydroxyl function (OH).
[0276] In one embodiment, the monoalcohol may be an aliphatic monoalcohol having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0277] The term “aliphatic monoalcohol” here designates any saturated, linear or branched alkane compound, comprising only one hydroxyl (OH) function.
[0278] The aliphatic monoalcohol(s) may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol and mixtures thereof.
[0279] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monoalcohol may be chosen from linear aliphatic monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.
[0280] The amount of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0281] Furthermore, the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less and, more preferably, 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.
[0282] Thus, the amount of the monoalcohol(s) in each of compositions A and B of the present invention may be from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 0.25% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. -Optional ingredients
[0283] Each of the compositions A and B according to the present invention may also comprise at least one other optional ingredient, chosen in particular from: viscosity correctors, such as thickeners, such as polysaccharides; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants; antibacterial agents, such as benzoic acid; preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol; chelating agents; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescers; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular revitalizing polymers, such as cationic polymers; perfumes; silanes; crosslinking agents; and surfactants, including anionic and amphoteric surfactants. The composition may, of course, comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the list above.
[0284] The above optional ingredient(s) may be present in normal amounts which can be readily determined by those skilled in the art and which may be, for each ingredient, between 0.01% and 80% by weight in each of compositions A and B. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions used for the present invention. -Ammonia and thiol compound
[0285] It is preferable that the process according to the present invention does not include an application of ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers. Thus, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B is free of ammonia or a thiol compound. The expression "free of ammonia or a thiol compound" means that the composition according to the present invention does not include a substantial amount of ammonia or a thiol compound.
[0286] In one embodiment, each of compositions A and B according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of ammonia or a thiol compound, in particular no ammonia or a thiol compound.
[0287] Due to the use of a very small amount or absence of ammonia and / or a thiol compound, the bad odor during the process according to the present invention can be reduced or prevented.
[0288] The thiol compound herein refers to a compound which has at least one thiol group (-SH).
[0289] The thiol compound may be a reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol or glycol monothioglycolate; thiolactic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol monothiolactate; 3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, in particular its esters such as glycerol 3-mercaptopropionate and ethylene glycol 3-mercaptopropionate; cysteamine and its derivatives, in particular its C1-C4 acyl derivatives such as N-acetylcysteamine and N-propionylcysteamine; mono-thioglycerol and its derivatives, in particular its esters; cysteine and its derivatives, including its esters such as N-acetylcysteine, N-alkanoylcysteine and cysteine alkyl esters; thioglycerin and its derivatives, including its s-alkyl derivatives; and their salts.
[0290] As the above salts, mention may be made, for example, of ammonium salts; primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts; alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts. As the primary, secondary or tertiary amine, for example, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, di-isopropanolamine or triethanolamine, respectively.
[0291] Other examples of thiol reducing agent include, but are not limited to, N-mercapto alkyl sugar amides such as N-(mercapto-2-ethyl)gluconamide, [3-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives; thiomalic acid; panthetine; N-(mercaptoalkyl)co-hydroxyalkyl amides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 354 835 and N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides such as those described in European Patent Application No. 0 368 763; aminomer-captoalkyl amides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 432 000 and alkylaminomer-captoalkylamides such as those described in European patent application No. 0 514 282; 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2 / 3) and the mixture based on 2-hydroxymethyl-1-ethyl thioglycolate (67 / 33) described in French patent application No. 2 679 448. -Reducing agent and oxidizing agent
[0292] It is preferable that the process according to the present invention does not include an application of reducing agent or oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers. Thus, it is preferable that each of compositions A and B is free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent. The expression "free of reducing agent or oxidizing agent" means that a composition does not include a substantial amount of reducing agent or oxidizing agent.
[0293] Preferably, each of compositions A and B according to the present invention includes 1% by weight or less, more preferably 0.5% by weight or less, and even more preferably 0.1% by weight or less of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent, in particular no reducing agent or no oxidizing agent.
[0294] The reducing agent may be a thiol reducing agent or a non-thiol reducing agent. The thiol reducing agent is as described above.
[0295] The non-thiol reducing agent herein refers to a reducing agent without a thiol group. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from the group consisting of sulfites, bisulfites, sulfinates, phosphines, sugars, reductones and hydrides. The non-thiol reducing agent may be selected from ammonium sulfites and bisulfites, as well as metal sulfites and bisulfites, more preferably from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal sulfites and bisulfites and more preferably from sodium sulfites and bisulfites.
[0296] The oxidizing agent may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, ferricynaides, peroxygen salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent may be selected from an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, and persalts such as perborates and persulfates. {Optional step (iv)}
[0297] The process according to the present invention may or may not comprise an additional step (iv) for the application of at least one treatment composition other than composition A and composition B to the keratinous fibers. The composition of the treatment will be described in detail later.
[0298] The application of the treatment composition can be carried out by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
[0299] The process according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) after application of both compositions A and B and before step (iii) where appropriate. Thus, the process according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) after both steps (i) and (ii) are completed and before step (iii) where appropriate.
[0300] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises step (i), step (ii), step (iv) and step (iii) in that order.
[0301] In another embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises step (ii), step (i), step (iv) and step (iii) in that order.
[0302] The process according to the present invention may comprise an optional step of rinsing the keratinous fibers with or without drying the keratinous fibers just before and / or after step (iv).
[0303] It may be possible, after application of the treatment composition, to leave the keratinous fibers as they are for a certain period of time; typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 2 to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 3 to 10 minutes, if necessary, in order to allow the composition to penetrate into the keratinous fibers.
[0304] The amount of the treatment composition applied to the keratinous fibers is not particularly limited, but generally ranges from 0.01 g to 0.5 g per 1 g of keratinous fibers.
[0305] The process according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) once, or may comprise step (iv) two or more times. In a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention may comprise step (iv) twice.
[0306] Where the process comprises step (iv) two or more times, each step (iv) may include the application of the same or different treatment compositions.
[0307] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process comprises step (iv) twice, and each step (iv) includes applying a different composition to the keratinous fibers.
[0308] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention does not comprise a rinsing step after step (iv). In this embodiment, the treatment composition used in step (iv) may be a leave-on cosmetic composition.
[0309] (Treatment composition)
[0310] The form of the treatment compositions which can be used for the present invention can be in any form suitable for topical application, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or alcoholic-aqueous or oily solution or suspension; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type (if the composition for the present invention comprises at least one oil); a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of the cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous gel or any other cosmetic form.
[0311] The treatment compositions which can be used for the present invention can have a pH of 3 to 8, preferably 3 to 7 at 25°C.
[0312] The formulations of the treatment compositions are not particularly limited, and compositions for keratinous fibers commonly used in the cosmetic field may be employed. In one embodiment, the treatment composition may be a hair care composition.
[0313] For example, the treatment composition may or may not include at least one silicone and / or at least one polyol.
[0314] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one amino-modified silicone or aminosilicone.
[0315] The term “aminosilicone” herein designates a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.
[0316] The amount of the (a) silicone(s) in the treatment composition may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.
[0317] The polyol which may be included in the treatment composition is the same as the polyol explained above, and the same explanations may be applied.
[0318] Preferably, the treatment composition comprises at least one polyol selected from diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol and other polyols such as glycerol.
[0319] The amount of the polyol(s) in the treatment composition may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the treatment composition.
[0320] The treatment composition may comprise water. In this embodiment, the treatment composition is not anhydrous.
[0321] The amount of water in the treatment composition may be from 40% to 95% by weight, preferably from 50% to 95% by weight and, more preferably, from 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of each of the compositions. [Necessary]
[0322] The present invention also relates to a remodeling kit, preferably for smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention.
[0323] The present invention also relates to a kit for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising:
[0324] a composition A, comprising: a. at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the weight
[0325] total of composition A, and
[0326] a composition B, comprising: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of keto acids, their salts and their mixtures.
[0327] In the kit according to the present invention, composition A and composition B may be provided separately, for example, in different containers.
[0328] The kit according to the present invention may comprise at least one heating element, such as an iron or a curler, which is capable of providing the keratinous fibers with a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C.
[0329] The heating element in the kit is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C. and more preferably, more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C, and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0330] Any conventional iron or curler, including any conventional heated iron or curler, may be used as the above iron or curler in the kit according to the present invention.
[0331] It is preferable that the heating element is an iron or curler, as explained in the section titled [Process] above. Furthermore, the details of the composition used in the kit according to the present invention are explained in the section titled [Process] above. [Use]
[0332] The present invention may relate to a use of the combination of composition A and composition B of the present invention, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0333] Thus, the present invention also relates to a use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, in which
[0334] composition A comprises: a. at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the total weight of composition A, and
[0335] composition B comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures.
[0336] In particular, the present invention relates to a use of composition A as a pre-treatment agent or post-treatment agent for remodeling, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers with composition B, in which:
[0337] composition A comprises: a. at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the total weight of composition A, and
[0338] composition B comprises: a. at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and b. at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures.
[0339] The use of the present invention may be carried out by heating the keratinous fiber, preferably the hair. In the use of the present invention, the heating element may be provided after application of compositions A and B to the keratinous fiber.
[0340] The heating element is not limited as long as it can heat the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C. This temperature may be less than 250°C, preferably less than 240°C, and more preferably less than 230°C. Thus, this temperature may be more than 50°C and less than 250°C, preferably more than 100°C and less than 240°C, and more preferably more than 150°C and less than 230°C.
[0341] Details of the compositions for use according to the present invention are explained in the section entitled [Process] above. EXAMPLES
[0342] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. [Preparation]
[0343] Composition A and Composition B were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials.
[0344] [Tables 1] Composition A Propylene glycol 65 Cationic surfactant (80% by weight of MA) 3.15 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 0.9 Myristyl alcohol 2 Ethanol 27.85 Composition B Isopropyl Myristate 8 Cetearyl Alcohol 9.5 Steareth-20 4 Pentylene Glycol 5 Steareth-2 4 Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (30% by weight of MA) (1) 5 Cetyl Esters 1 Glyoxylic Acid (50% by weight of MA) (2) 14 Levulinic Acid (60% by weight of MA) (3) 4 Ethanol 0.25 Viscosity Regulator 0.5 pH Regulator qs pH 3.0 Water qs 100 1. sold by BASF under the name DEHYQUART F 30 (containing 30% active ingredient). 1. sold by the company WEYLCHEM under the name GLYOXO-HIGH PURE 50 (containing 50% active ingredient). 2. sold by the company DR STRAETMANS (EVONIK) under the name DERMOSOFT 700 B (containing 60% active ingredient). Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 Example 1
[0346] 1 g of Brazilian curly hair strand (type IV) with a length of 27 cm was washed with 0.5 g of any shampoo composition. The formulation of any shampoo is shown in Table 3 below. The numerical values for the quantities of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials. The hair strand was rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Any shampoo Sodium laureth sulfate 15 Coco-Betaine 9 Preservatives 0.7 Polyquaternium-10 0.3 Water qsp 100 pH corrector qsp pH 5.5 Viscosity corrector 2
[0348] Composition A was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the strand of wet hair as a pretreatment (step (i)).
[0349] Then, without rinsing, composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the lock of hair (Step (ii)).
[0350] The hair strand was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C). The hair strand was then thoroughly rinsed with tap water and then dried with a hair dryer until the hair strand was dry.
[0351] The hair strand was subjected to 3-pass straightening with a hair straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass (Step (iii)). Comparative example 1
[0352] The hair strand, which was the same as that used in Example 1, was washed with 0.5 g of any shampoo according to Example 1. The formulation of the any shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1. Then, no treatment was applied to the hair strand according to Comparative Example 1. Thus, none of steps (i) to (iii) were performed in this process. Comparative example 2
[0353] A sample according to Comparative Example 2 was prepared using 0.5 g of any shampoo according to Example 1, and then the hair strand was dried with a hair dryer until the hair strand was dried. Then, the hair strand was subjected to straightening without any treatment with the hair straightener. The straightening process was the same as that of Example 1. Thus, only step (iii) was conducted in this process. Comparative example 3
[0354] A sample according to Comparative Example 3 was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, but no pretreatment with composition A was carried out. Thus, step (i) of the present invention was not carried out in this process. Example 2
[0355] A sample according to Example 2 was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, but a strand of Chinese curly hair (type III) was used instead of the strand of Brazilian curly hair (type IV). Example 3
[0356] Example 2 was repeated, but after rinsing composition B with tap water, 0.25 g of a hair care composition Y was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was left for 5 minutes at room temperature (25°C), then rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Then, 0.03 g of a hair care composition Z was applied to the hair strand, followed by blow-drying with a hair dryer until the hair strand was dry, and was subjected to straightening in the same manner as in Example 1.
[0357] Thus, the process according to Example 3 included an additional step (iv).
[0358] The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z are shown in Tables 4 and 5 below, respectively. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients are all based on "% by weight" as raw materials. Hair Care Composition Y Cetearyl Alcohol 6 Cetyl Esters 1.5 Behentrimonium Chloride (80% by weight of MA) 3 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-10 (15% by weight of Amodimethicone MA) (4) 15 Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Cetrimonium Chloride (57% by weight of Amodimethicone MA) (5) 4.5 Preservatives 0.5 Glycerin 2 Water qsp 100 PH 4.0 1. sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1 (containing 15% active ingredient). 2. sold by Wacker under the name Belsil ADM 4000 E (containing 57% active ingredient). Hair Care Composition Z Water qsp 100 pH Regulator qsp pH 5.0 Butylene Glycol 4 Viscosity Regulator 0.5 PEG-240 / HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether (30% by weight MA) (6) 3 Preservative 0.7 Undecane (and) Tridecane 1 Aminopropyl Dimethicone (55% by weight MA) (7) 8.83 Isononyl Isononanoate 3 1. sold by the company ADEKA under the name ADEKANOL GT-730 (containing 30% active ingredient). 2. sold by SHIN ETSU company under the name X-22-9686 (containing 55% active ingredient). Comparative Example 4
[0361] A sample according to Comparative Example 4 was prepared in the same manner as Example 2, but no pretreatment with composition A was carried out. Thus, step (i) of the present invention was not carried out in this process.
[0362] The processes according to Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 are summarized in Table 4. As explained above, in these examples, steps (i), (ii), (iv) and (iii), where applicable, were carried out in that order.
[0363] [Tableauxô] Hair Strand Step (i) Step (ii) Step (iv) Step (iii) Ex. 1 Brazilian Curl Hair Strand AB - Done Ex. Comp. 1 - - - - Ex. Comp. 2 - - - Done Ex. Comp. 3 - B - Done Ex. 2 Chinese Curl Hair Strand AB - Done Ex. 3 AB Done Done Ex. Comp. 4 - B - Done Examples 4 and 5 Example 4
[0364] 1 g of strand of Chinese curly hair (type III) with a length of 27 cm was washed with 0.5 g of any shampoo. The formulation of the any shampoo was the same as that used in Example 1.
[0365] Composition B was applied in an amount of 0.6 g to the strand of wet hair as a pretreatment (Step (ii)).
[0366] The lock of hair was left for 10 minutes at room temperature (25°C), then rinsed thoroughly with tap water.
[0367] Composition A was applied in an amount of 0.2 g to the hair strand (Step (i)) as a post-treatment. The hair strand was then rinsed thoroughly with tap water and then dried with a hair dryer until the hair strand was dry.
[0368] The hair strand was subjected to 3-pass straightening with a hair straightener (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass (Step (iü))). Example 5
[0369] Example 4 was repeated, but after rinsing composition A with tap water, 0.25 g of a hair care composition Y was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was left for 5 minutes at room temperature (25°C) and then rinsed thoroughly with tap water. Next, 0.03 g of a hair care composition Z was applied to the hair strand. The hair strand was then blow-dried until dry. The formulations of hair care compositions Y and Z are the same as those used in Example 2.
[0370] Thus, the process according to Example 5 included an additional step (iv).
[0371] The lock of hair was subjected to a straightening in 3 passes with a straightening iron. hair (ADST Premium DS2, Hakko Limited, Japan) at 180 C, 4 seconds / pass (Step (iii)).
[0372] The processes according to Examples 4 and 5 are summarized in Table 7. As explained above, in these examples, steps (ii), (i), (iv) and (iii), where applicable, were carried out in that order.
[0373] [Tables7] Hair strand Step (ii) Step (i) Step (iv) Step (iii) Ex. 4 Chinese curl BA - Done Ex. 5 Hair strand BA Done Done [Assessment]
[0374] (Smoothing effect)
[0375] After each of the treated hair strands was kept at room temperature (25°C) for three hours, the smoothing level of the treated hair strand was visually evaluated based on the three aspects of "smoothing performance", "frizz level" and "volume" under the following criteria.
[0376] 5: Excellent
[0377] 4: Very good
[0378] 3: Good
[0379] 2: Passable
[0380] 1: Bad
[0381] (Durability)
[0382] The durability of the smoothing effects on the hair strand was evaluated by examining the smoothing effect of the hair strand after 7 shampoos with a routine shampoo composition. The formulation of the routine shampoo composition is shown in Table 8 below. The hair strand was thoroughly rinsed with tap water and dried with a hair dryer (for approximately 90 seconds until dry) after each shampoo. The evaluation was carried out according to the following criteria.
[0383] 5: Excellent
[0384] 4: Very good
[0385] 3: Good
[0386] 2: Passable
[0387] 1: Bad
[0388] [Tables8] Routine Shampoo C14 -Ci6 Sodium Olefin Sulfonate (38% by weight of MA) 18.4 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (38% by weight of MA) 16.8 Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid 2.2 Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside (60% by weight of MA) 1.5 Polyquatemium-67 0.15 Preservative 0.61 pH Regulator qs pH 5.3 Viscosity Regulator 1.15
[0389] The results are shown in Table 9 below.
[0390] [Tables9] Smoothing effect Durability Ex. 1 4 3 Ex. Comp. 1 1 1 Ex. Comp. 2 2 1 Ex. Comp. 3 3 1 Ex. 2 3 3 Ex. 3 4 4 Ex. 4 3 3 Ex. 5 4 4 Ex. Comp. 4 3 2
[0391] It is clear that the processes according to the examples, which include steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii) provided both an improved smoothing effect and durability compared to the processes according to comparative examples, which do not include all steps (i) and (ii), optionally (iii).
Claims
Claims
1. A process for remodeling, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers, such as hair, comprising the following steps: (i) applying a composition A to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition A comprises: (a) at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the total weight of composition A, (ii) applying a composition B to the keratinous fibers, wherein composition B comprises: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof;and (c) at least one compound, different from (b) compound, selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and mixtures thereof, and (iii) optionally heating the keratinous fibers to a temperature of more than 50°C, preferably more than 100°C and more preferably more than 150°C, after both steps (i) and (ii) are finished, wherein the process comprises step (i) then step (ii) or step (ii) then step (i).;
2. The process of claim 1, wherein the (a) polyol is selected from linear alkyl polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
3. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the (c) compound is selected from levulinic acid, a salt thereof and a mixture thereof.
4. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the weight ratio of compound(s) (b) to compound(s) (c) included in composition B is from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 1.5:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 2:1 to 5:
1.
5. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH of composition B is 7 or less, preferably 6 or less and, more preferably, 5 or less.
6. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein the process does not include applying ammonia or a thiol compound to the keratinous fibers.
7. A process according to any preceding claim, in which process does not include the application of a reducing agent or an oxidizing agent to the keratinous fibers.
8. A process according to any preceding claim, wherein composition A further comprises at least one monoalcohol, preferably having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms.
9. A kit for remodeling, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising: a composition A comprising: (a) at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the total weight of composition A, and a composition B, comprising: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures.
10. Use of a combination of a composition A and a composition B, for reshaping, preferably smoothing keratinous fibers such as hair, wherein composition A comprises: (a) at least one polyol in an amount of 10% by weight or more relative to the total weight of composition A, and a composition B comprises: (b) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of glyoxylic acid, glyoxylic acid solvates, glyoxylic acid salts, glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one compound, different from compound (b), selected from the group consisting of ketoacids, their salts and their mixtures.