PROCESS FOR PREPARING E / H TYPE COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

METHOD FOR PREPARING A W / O TYPE COSMETIC COMPOSITION The present invention relates to a method for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising the steps of: (1) preparing a (a) fluid oily phase by mixing (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2) at least one crystallizable wax which has been melted and (a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) oily phase; (2) preparing a (b) fluid aqueous phase by mixing (b-1) water and (b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase;(3) mixing the (a) fluid oil phase with the (b) fluid aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystallizable wax has not crystallized to obtain a mixture of the (a) oil phase and the (b) aqueous phase, and (4) cooling the mixture obtained by step (3) to prepare the W / O type cosmetic composition, wherein the mixture of the (a) fluid oil phase and the (b) fluid aqueous phase obtained by step (3) is subjected to shear stress during step (4), at least, at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins. The W / O type cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is gentle even if the composition includes a relatively large amount of wax and can provide a feeling of comfort during use. Figure for the abstract: none;

Description

Title of the invention: METHOD FOR PREPARING E / H TYPE COSMETIC COMPOSITION technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition and more preferably, a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion. PRIORITY OF THE TECHNOLOGY

[0002] In general, when a makeup product, especially a lip product such as lipstick or lip gloss, is used on a keratinous substance such as the lips, it is preferable that the makeup product provides, during and after use, a feeling of comfort and good makeup effects on the keratinous substance.

[0003] Document WO 2018 / 115328 discloses a lipstick in the form of a This is a solid oil-in-water emulsion comprising a continuous oil phase and dispersed aqueous phases. This lipstick can provide a cooling sensation upon application and moisturize the lips. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0004] Generally, lipstick contains wax to maintain its solid stick shape. If the amount of wax in the lipstick increases, its hardness may also increase. However, increased hardness can lead to poor application, which may result in discomfort during use.

[0005] An objective of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a cosmetic composition that is gentle, even if the cosmetic composition may include a relatively large amount of wax, and is comfortable during use.

[0006] The above objective can be achieved by a process for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition and more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising the steps of:

[0007] (1) preparation of a fluid oil phase (a) by mixing

[0008] (a-1) of at least one oil,

[0009] (a-2) of at least one crystallizable wax that has been melted and

[0010] (a-3) of at least one optional ingredient for the (a) oil phase;

[0011] (2) preparation of a fluid aqueous phase (b) by mixing

[0012] (b-1) of water and

[0013] (b-2) of at least one optional ingredient for the aqueous phase (b);

[0014] (3) mixing of the (a) fluid oil phase with the (b) fluid aqueous phase at a temperature temperature at which the (a-2) crystallizable wax is not crystallized to obtain a mixture of (a) the fluid oil phase and (b) the fluid aqueous phase and

[0015] (4) cooling of the mixture obtained by step (3) to prepare the composition cosmetic type E / H,

[0016] in which

[0017] the mixture obtained by step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during step (4), at least at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.

[0018] In the process according to the present invention, the temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins may be less than 90 °C, preferably less than 85 °C and more preferably, less than 80 °C.

[0019] In the process according to the present invention, the mixture obtained by step (3) can be subjected to shear stress during step (4) after the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.

[0020] In the process according to the present invention, the mixture obtained by step (3) can also be subjected to shear stress during step (4) before the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.

[0021] In the process according to the present invention, the shear stress can be applied to the mixture obtained in step (3) with at least one mechanical device selected from the group consisting of a propeller mixer, a rotor / stator homogenizer, a scraped surface heat exchanger, an extruder and a static mixer.

[0022] In the process according to the present invention, the shear stress can be applied to the mixture obtained by step (3) with at least one cavitation device selected from the group consisting of a high-pressure homogenizer and an ultrasonicator.

[0023] The process according to the present invention may, in addition, include a further step (5) of mixing at least one additional ingredient with the mixture obtained in step (3), after step (3) and before step (4).

[0024] The W / H type cosmetic composition may have a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm and more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm.

[0025] The quantity of the (a-1) oil(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition can be from 15% to 45% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The quantity of the (a-2) crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 12% by weight or more, preferably 13% by weight or more and more preferably 14% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] The quantity of the (a-2) crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition can be from 12% to 30% by weight, preferably from 13% to 25% by weight and more preferably from 14% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The W / O type cosmetic composition may satisfy the following conditions:

[0029] the (a-2) crystallizable wax comprises (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallizable wax having a melting point of 80 °C or higher, (a-2-1-2) of non-polar crystallizable wax having a melting point below 80 °C and (a-2-2) of polar crystallizable wax and

[0030] the quantity of (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) having a melting point melting point of 80 °C or more is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) having a melting point of 80 °C or more, of the (a-2-1-2) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) having a melting point below 80 °C and of the (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax(s).

[0031] The quantity of (b-1) water in the above W / H type cosmetic composition can be from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight and more preferably from 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] The present invention also relates to an O / W type cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic makeup composition and more preferably, a lipstick composition, prepared by the process according to the present invention.

[0033] The present invention also relates to a method for controlling the crystallization of wax in a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition and more preferably, a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, the method comprising the steps of:

[0034] (1) preparation of a fluid oil phase (a) by mixing

[0035] (a-1) of at least one oil,

[0036] (a-2) of at least one crystallizable wax that has been melted and

[0037] (a-3) of at least one optional ingredient for the (a) oil phase;

[0038] (2) preparation of a fluid aqueous phase (b) by mixing

[0039] (b-1) of water and

[0040] (b-2) of at least one optional ingredient for the aqueous phase (b);

[0041] (3) mixing of the (a) fluid oil phase with the (b) fluid aqueous phase at a temperature temperature at which the (a-2) crystallizable wax is not crystallized to obtain a mixture of (a) the fluid oil phase and (b) the fluid aqueous phase and

[0042] (4) cooling of the mixture obtained in step (3) to form the composition E / H type cosmetics

[0043] in which

[0044] the mixture obtained by step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during step (4), at least at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins. Brief description of the drawings

[0045] [Fig.1] Fig.1 represents a longitudinal cross-sectional view of an example of a device for applying slight shear stress.

[0046] [Fig.2] Fig.2 represents a cross-sectional view of an example of a device for applying slight shear stress.

[0047] [Fig.3] Fig.3 represents a photograph taken under a microscope of the composition according to Example 1 which has been subjected to X-ray computed tomography.

[0048] [Fig.4] The [Fig.4] represents a microscopic photograph of the composition according to Comparative Example 1 which has been subjected to X-ray computed tomography. Best embodiment of the invention

[0049] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to provide a cosmetic composition that is gentle, even if the cosmetic composition may include a relatively large amount of wax, and is comfortable during use.

[0050] Thus, the present invention relates to a method for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type composition and more preferably, a solid W / O type emulsion, comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising the steps of:

[0051] (1) preparation of a fluid oil phase (a) by mixing

[0052] (a-1) of at least one oil,

[0053] (a-2) of at least one crystallizable wax that has been melted and

[0054] (a-3) of at least one optional ingredient for the (a) oil phase;

[0055] (2) preparation of a fluid aqueous phase (b) by mixing

[0056] (b-1) of water and

[0057] (b-2) of at least one optional ingredient for the aqueous phase (b);

[0058] (3) mixing of the (a) fluid oil phase with the (b) fluid aqueous phase at a temperature temperature at which the (a-2) crystallizable wax is not crystallized to obtain a mixture of (a) the fluid oil phase and (b) the fluid aqueous phase and

[0059] (4) cooling of the mixture obtained by step (3) to prepare the composition cosmetic of type E / H,

[0060] in which

[0061] the mixture obtained by step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during step (4), at least at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.

[0062] The process according to the present invention can be used to prepare a gentle oil-in-water (O / W) cosmetic composition, even if the composition includes a relatively large amount of wax. In other words, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is gentle even if the composition includes a relatively large amount of wax.

[0063] The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can provide a feeling of comfort during use. For example, it can allow for smooth gliding, deposition of the composition in an appropriate quantity, a soft feel, and a feeling of blending. Consequently, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention offers excellent ease of use.

[0064] Furthermore, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can provide good makeup effects after use.

[0065] For example, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can provide long-lasting makeup effects against, for example, sebum or water, due, for example, to perspiration or rain, as well as a reduction of color transfer to a subject that comes into contact with a keratinous substance on which the composition has been applied.

[0066] The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is suitable for lipsticks.

[0067] We will describe in detail below the process according to the present invention. We will first describe the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention, and then the steps of the process according to the present invention. [Composition]

[0068] In the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention, a plurality of (b) aqueous phases are dispersed in (a) oily phase. The (b) aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while (a) oily phase is a continuous phase. This type of formulation is referred to herein as "oil / water type".

[0069] The W / O type cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to the present invention comprises:

[0070] (a) a continuous or external fatty phase comprising

[0071] (a-1) at least one oil and

[0072] (a-2) at least one crystallizable wax;

[0073] and

[0074] (b) a plurality of dispersed, discontinuous or internal aqueous phases comprising

[0075] (b-1) of water.

[0076] The quantity of the (a) oil phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 27% by weight or more, preferably 35% by weight or more and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0077] The quantity of the (a) oil phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 65% ​​by weight or less and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] The quantity of the (a) oily phase in the W / O type cosmetic composition can be from 27% to 70% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] The quantity of (b) aqueous phases in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] The quantity of (b) aqueous phases in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 35% by weight or less and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] The quantity of (b) aqueous phases in the above W / O type cosmetic composition can be from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably from 15% to 35% by weight and, even better, from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] (Oil)

[0083] The W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (a-1) at least one oil. If two (a-1) or more oils are used, they may be identical or different.

[0084] The (a-1) oil may be present in the (a) oily phase.

[0085] Here “oil” refers to a fatty compound or a fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination with others. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0086] The (a-1) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0087] The (a-1) oil may be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and alcohols fat.

[0088] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0089] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0090] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0091] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0092] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0093] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate may be mentioned.

[0094] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and Ci-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0095] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0096] Sugar esters and fatty acid diesters of C6-C3O and, preferably, C2-C22 fatty acids can be used as ester oils. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and which include at least minus 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

[0097] Examples of suitable sugars that can be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0098] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of the sugars described above and of C6-C30 and, preferably, C12-C22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0099] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0100] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0101] More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0102] An example that can be cited is the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0103] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, one may cite, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, coco-caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, palmitate ethylhexyl, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0104] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0105] Examples of silicone oils include, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, etc.; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc. and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Preferably, the silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0107] These silicone oils can also be organo-modified. The organo-modified silicones that can be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0108] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0109] If they are volatile, silicones are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C and, even more particularly, from: i. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 marketed by Union Carbide, with the formula:

[0110] Other examples include mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,r-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane and i. Linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁶ m² / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed in particular under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27–32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C according to the standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0111] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl terminal groups.

[0112] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited, without limitation: • Silbione® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil® oils marketed by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000; • the oils from the Mirasil® range marketed by the company Rhodia; • Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm² / s and • Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils from the SF range (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0113] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from the Rhodia company.

[0114] Among silicones containing aryl groups, we can mention polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0115] The phenyl silicone oil may be selected from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0116] in which • Ri in Rio are, independently of each other, C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals and • m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive and more preferably from 0 to 100 included, • provided that the sum n+m+q is not 0.

[0117] The products marketed under the following names are examples that can be cited: • Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range by Rhodia; • the oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia; • Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning; • silicones from Bayer's PK range, such as the PK20 product; • certain oils from General Electric's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

[0118] As a phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to R10 are a methyl;p, qetn = 0;m=l in the formula above) is preferable.

[0119] Organomodified liquid silicones may, in particular, contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Examples include KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu, and Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from Union Carbide.

[0120] Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from: • Lower C6-Ci6 alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane, and • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam^ and squalane.

[0121] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, etc., hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0122] The term "fatty" in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more, are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols can be linear or branched.

[0123] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from alkyl groups in the C2-C2O and alkenyl groups in the C2-C2O. R may or may not be substituted by au minus one hydroxyl group.

[0124] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, un-decylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonylic alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0125] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0126] Thus, the fatty alcohol can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched, preferably from saturated C6-C30 alcohols, linear or branched and more preferably from saturated Ci2-C2o alcohols, linear or branched.

[0127] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here refers to an alcohol having a long, saturated aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, the saturated fatty alcohol should be chosen from any saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched. Among saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C2-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may preferably be used. Any saturated C6-C20 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, may be used more preferably. Branched C6-C20 fatty alcohols may be used even more preferably.

[0128] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as behenyl alcohol, may be used as saturated fatty alcohols.

[0129] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the W / O type cosmetic composition is preferably selected from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0130] It is also preferable that the (a-1) oil be chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g / mol.

[0131] Preferably, the (a-1) oil has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g / mol, selected from ester oils with a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (CrCi2) (e.g., isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (e.g., volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohol type oils (Ci2-C30) such as octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

[0132] It is preferable that the (a-1) oil be chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.

[0133] In one embodiment, the (a) fatty phase may comprise:

[0134] (a-1-1) at least one volatile oil, preferably a non-polar volatile oil and more preferably, a volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, such as isododecane and isohexadecane and

[0135] (a-1-2) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably a non-polar non- volatile and more preferably, a non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, such as hydrogenated polyisobutene.

[0136] It may be preferable for (a) the oil phase to comprise a limited amount of silicone oil such as less than 10% by weight or less, less than 5% by weight or less, and less than 1% by weight or less. It may be preferable for (a) the oil phase to comprise no silicone oil.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition is free of silicone oil.

[0138] The amount of (a-1) silicone oil(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 15% by weight or more, preferably 20% by weight or more and more preferably 25% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] The amount of the (a-1) silicone oil(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 45% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] The quantity of the (a-1) oil(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 15% to 45% by weight, preferably from 20% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] (Wax)

[0142] The W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (a-2) at least one crystallizable wax. If two (a-2) or more crystallizable waxes are used, they may be identical or different.

[0143] The (a-2) crystallizable wax may be present in the (a) oily phase.

[0144] The term "wax" is understood, for the purposes of the present invention, as designating a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, and which has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C.

[0145] The melting point of the wax here refers to a temperature at which all the wax is melted.

[0146] The (a-2) crystallizable wax may be selected from polar waxes, non-polar waxes and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from polar ester waxes, non-polar hydrocarbon waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0147] The quantity of the (a-2) crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 12% by weight or more, preferably 13% by weight or more and more preferably 14% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0148] The amount of the (a-2) crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] The quantity of the (a-2) crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 12% to 30% by weight, preferably from 13% to 25% by weight and more preferably from 14% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Non-polar wax:

[0151] Preferably, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (a-2-1) at least one non-polar crystallizable wax. If two or more (a-2-1) non-polar crystallizable waxes are used, they may be identical or different.

[0152] The (a-2-1) non-polar crystallizable wax may be present in the (a) oily phase of the W / O type cosmetic composition.

[0153] The (a-2-1) non-polar crystallizable wax may have a melting point of 35 °C to 130 °C, preferably of 40 °C to 125 °C and more preferably of 45 °C to 120 °C.

[0154] The (a-2-1) nonpolar crystallizable wax can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, the crystallization of the (a-2-1) nonpolar crystallizable wax begins at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter marketed under the name DSC 30 by Mettler.

[0155] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar" wax means a wax for which the solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C as defined below is equal to 0 (J / cm3)1^.

[0156] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0157] According to this Hansen space: • ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts; • ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; • ôh characterizes specific interaction forces (such as bonds acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen, etc.) and • ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + 0^)½.

[0158] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)1^.

[0159] The (a-2-1) non-polar crystallizable wax may be of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.

[0160] The (a-2-1) non-polar crystallizable wax can, in particular, be selected from hydrocarbon waxes composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and devoid of heteroatoms, such as N, O, Si and P.

[0161] Examples of (a-2-1) nonpolar crystallizable wax include hydrocarbon waxes, for example polyolefin waxes, such as polyethylene wax and polypropylene wax, microcrystalline waxes, synthetic wax, paraffin waxes and ozokerite.

[0162] According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises at least one polyethylene wax. Examples of polyethylene waxes include Asensa® SC 211 marketed by Honeywell and Performalene 500-L, Polyethylene and Performalene 400 marketed by New Phase Technologies.

[0163] Polyethylene wax can be in powder form. Examples of such powdered wax include polyethylene microwaxes such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by Micro Powders.

[0164] According to another preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises at least one microcrystalline wax. Examples of microcrystalline waxes that may be used include Multiwax W 445® marketed by Sonneborn, Micro wax HW® and Base Wax 30540® marketed by Paramelt.

[0165] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprises at least one synthetic wax. The synthetic wax may be obtained by a Fischer-Tropsch process. Thus, the synthetic wax may be a Fischer-Tropsch wax. CireWax 90 from DKSH Japan is an example of a synthetic wax.

[0166] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil-in-water cosmetic composition comprises at least one paraffin wax. Typically, the paraffin wax is composed of C16-C40 hydrocarbons, preferably linear C16-C40 hydrocarbons, and more preferably, linear C20-C40 hydrocarbons. The molecular weight of the paraffin wax may be between 300 and 550.

[0167] As an example of ozokerite, one can cite that marketed under the name Ozokerite Wax Pastilles SP 1021 P.

[0168] It is preferable that the W / O type cosmetic composition include

[0169] (a-2-1-1) at least one non-polar crystallizable wax having a melting point of 80°C or more and

[0170] (a-2-1-2) at least one non-polar crystallizable wax having a melting point below 80 °C.

[0171] The (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallizable wax having a melting point of 80 °C or more may be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes and more preferably polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax and a mixture thereof.

[0172] The (a-2-1-2) non-polar crystallizable wax having a melting point below 80 °C may be selected from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably polyolefin waxes and more preferably paraffin wax, ozokerite and one of their mixtures.

[0173] The amount of the (a-2-1) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 6% by weight or more, preferably 8% by weight or more and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] The amount of the (a-2-1) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 17% by weight or less, preferably 16% by weight or less and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0175] The quantity of the (a-2-1) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 6% to 17% by weight, preferably from 8% to 16% by weight and more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0176] The quantity of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) having a melting point of 80 °C or more may be 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the (a-2-1-1) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) having a melting point of 80 °C or more, of the (a-2-1-2) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) having a melting point below 80 °C and of the (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax(s) described below.

[0177] Polar wax:

[0178] Preferably, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (a-2-2) at least one polar crystallizable wax. If two or more (a-2-2) polar crystallizable waxes are used, they may be identical or different.

[0179] The (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax may be present in the (a) oily phase of the W / O type cosmetic composition.

[0180] In particular, the (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax may have a melting point of 60 °C to 120 °C, preferably of 70 °C to 110 °C and more preferably of 80 °C to 100 °C.

[0181] Polar (α-2-2) crystallizable wax can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, the crystallization of polar (α-2-2) crystallizable wax begins at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter marketed under the name DSC 30 by Mettler.

[0182] The (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax can be of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin.

[0183] It is preferable that the polar (a-2-2) crystallizable wax has a chemical structure formed essentially from, or even composed of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.

[0184] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax for which the solubility parameter ôa at 25 °C is anything other than 0 (J / cm3)1^.

[0185] The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol., 39, 105 (1967).

[0186] According to this Hansen space: • ôD characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular impacts; • ôp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; • Δh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as acid / base, donor / acceptor, hydrogen bonds, etc.) and • ôa is determined by the equation: ôa = (ôp2 + 0^)½.

[0187] The parameters ôp, ôh, ôD and ôa are expressed in (J / cm3)1^.

[0188] Polar (a-2-2) crystallizable waxes may include hydrocarbon waxes, fluorinated waxes, or silicone waxes. The term "hydrocarbon wax" refers to a wax formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. The term "fluorinated wax" refers to a wax comprising at least one fluorine atom, in particular comprising at least one perfluoro group. The term "silicone wax" refers to a wax containing at least one silicon atom, in particular containing Si-O groups.

[0189]

[0190]

[0191]

[0192]

[0193]

[0194] According to a preferred embodiment, the (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax is a hydrocarbon wax. As a polar hydrocarbon wax, a wax chosen from among ester waxes and alcohol waxes is particularly preferred. The expression "ester wax" should be understood according to the present invention as designating a wax comprising at least one ester functional group. According to the present invention, the expression "alcohol wax" refers to a wax comprising at least one alcohol functional group, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH). The following elements can be used in particular as ester wax: • Ester waxes such as those selected from: i. waxes of formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri and R2 represent chains Linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic waxes, with a number of atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, or phosphorus, and whose melting point ranges from 25 °C to 120 °C. In particular, an alkyl stearate (hydroxystearyloxy) in the C2O-C4O configuration (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, or an alkyl stearate in the C2O-C4O configuration, can be used as an ester wax. Such waxes are marketed, among others, under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydropolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P®, and Kester Wax K82H by the Koster Keunen company. One can also use a glycol montanate and butylene glycol (octacosanoate) such as Licowax KPS Flakes wax (INCI name: Glycol Montanate) marketed by the Clariant company. i. bis(I,I,I-trimethylolpropane tetrastearate, marketed under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene. ii. Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), where R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (an alkyl group comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group (an alkyl group comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms), which may or may not contain one or more unsaturated groups. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. iii. We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty acid chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation Castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those marketed under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2 792 190. Waxes obtained by hydrogenating olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol include those marketed under the name Phytowax Olive 18L57. iv. We can also mention beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerol beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, esparto grass wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumach wax, Montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax and hydrogenated jojoba wax.

[0195] According to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition comprises a crystallizable polar wax derived from plants, such as jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax and acacia decurrens flower wax.

[0196] According to another embodiment, the (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax can be an alcohol wax.

[0197] Alcohol waxes that may be cited include, for example, Performacol 550-L Alcohol Wax from New Phase Technologies, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0198] The (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax may be a silicone wax, for example, silicone-coated beeswax. However, according to a preferred embodiment, the W / O type cosmetic composition is free of any silicone wax.

[0199] In particular, the polar (a-2-2) crystallizable wax may be selected from polar ester waxes, preferably polar ester waxes derived from plants and more preferably, jojoba esters, sunflower seed wax, acacia decurrens flower wax and a mixture thereof.

[0200] The amount of the (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0201] The amount of the (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 7% by weight or less, preferably 6% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] The quantity of the (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 0.01% to 7% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to less than 6% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. {Optional ingredient for the oil phase}

[0203] The (a) oil phase may include (a-3) at least one optional ingredient. If two or more (a-3) optional ingredients are used for the (a) oil phase, they may be the same or different.

[0204] The (a-3) optional ingredient for the (a) oily phase can be selected from indene resins, film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof.

[0205] (Indene resin)

[0206] The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise (a-3-1) at least one indene resin. If two or more (a-3-1) indene resins are used, they may be identical or different.

[0207] The (a-3-1) indene resin may be present in the (a) oily phase.

[0208] (α-3-1) indene resin can function as a lipophilic thickener.

[0209] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the (a) oil phase into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0210] Preferably, the hydrocarbon resin has a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol and even better, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol and in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g / mol.

[0211] The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).

[0212] (α-3-1) indene resin refers to resins derived, at least, from indene. (α-3-1) indene resin may be a homopolymer of indene, or a copolymer of indene and any other optional comonomer. Preferably, the comonomer should be selected from polymerizable hydrocarbons, preferably hydrocarbons having at least one carbon-carbon double bond.

[0213] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This or these units are repeated at least twice and, preferably, at least three times.

[0214] The (a-3-1) indene resin can be selected from indene hydrocarbon-based resins.

[0215] Indene hydrocarbon-based resins can be derived from the polymerization largely of an indene monomer and to a lesser extent of a hydrocarbon-based monomer, which can be selected from styrene, methylindene, and methylstyrene and mixtures thereof. These resins can optionally be hydrogenated. These resins can have a molecular weight ranging from 290 to 1150 g / mol. Examples of indene resins that can be cited include those marketed under the names Escorez 7105 by Exxon Chem., Nevchem 100 and Nevex 100 by Neville Chem., Norsolene S105 by Sartomer, Picco 6100 by Hercules and Resinall by Resinall Corp., or the hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers marketed under the name "Regalite" by Eastman Chemical, in particular Regalite RI 100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite Hydrocarbon Resin R1010 and Regalite Hydrocarbon Resin RI 125;

[0216] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin is chosen from hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers, i.e. hydrogenated copolymers of styrene, methylstyrene and indene.

[0217] In particular, hydrogenated styrene / methylstyrene / indene copolymers can be used, such as those marketed under the name Regalite by Eastman Chemical, such as Regalite RI 100, Regalite R1090, Regalite R7100, Regalite R1010 Hydrocarbon Resin and Regalite RI 125 Hydrocarbon Resin.

[0218] The amount of (a-3-1) indene resin(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0219] The amount of (a-3-1) indene resin(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0220] The quantity of (a-3-1) indene resin(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] (Film-forming polymer)

[0222] The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise (a-3-2) at least one film-forming polymer. If two or more (a-3-2) film-forming polymers are used, they may be identical or different.

[0223] The (a-3-2) film-forming polymer is different from the (a-3-1) indene resin.

[0224] The (a-3-2) film-forming polymer may be lipophilic and may be present in the (a) oily phase.

[0225] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units being derived from compounds called monomers). This unit or these units are repeated at least twice and, Preferably, at least three times.

[0226] The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming, alone or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to a support, in particular to keratinous materials, preferably a cohesive film and even better a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example, when said film is prepared by pouring onto a non-adhesive surface, for example, a surface coated with Teflon or silicone.

[0227] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer can be selected from the group comprising: • film-forming polymers that are soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when incorporated into the medium; • Film-forming polymers that are dispersible in an organic solvent medium; this means that the polymer forms an insoluble phase in the organic medium, the polymer remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into this medium. In particular, these polymers can be in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone-based or hydrocarbon oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface with at least one stabilizer; these non-aqueous dispersions are often called "NADs" and • Film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles; this means that the polymer forms a water-insoluble phase, remaining stable and / or compatible once incorporated into water, with the polymer particles potentially stabilized on their surface with at least one stabilizer. These polymer particles are often called "matrices"; in this case, the composition must include an aqueous phase.

[0228] Preferably, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyamide-silicone sequenced polymers, ethylenic sequenced polymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one car-boxiloxane dendrimer derivative, copolymers comprising carboxylate groups and poly-dimethylsilixane groups, silicone resins, lipodispersible polymers in the form of a non-aqueous dispersion of polymer particles, olefin copolymers selected from amorphous olefin copolymers and controlled and moderate crystallization olefin copolymers, hydrocarbon-based resins having a mo weight. The average number of ecular elements is less than or equal to 10,000 g / ml, and one of their mixtures, more preferably silicone resins.

[0229] The (a-3-2) film-forming silicone resin can be any silicone resin having film-forming properties.

[0230] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer can be selected from silsesquioxane, siloxysilicate and a resin obtained by hydroxysilylation.

[0231] The nomenclature for silicone resin is known in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby a silicone resin is described according to the different fractions of repeating siloxane monomers that constitute the polymer. Each letter of "MDTQ" corresponds to a different type of fraction.

[0232] The symbol “M” corresponds to the monofunctional fraction (CH3)3SiO2 / 2. This fraction is considered monofunctional because the silicon atom shares only one oxygen atom for chain formation. The “M” fraction can be represented by the following structure:

[0233] At least one of the methyl groups can be replaced so as, for example, to produce a fraction with the following formula: [R(CH3)2]SiO2, as represented by the following structure: ch3

[0234] where R is other than a methyl group.

[0235] The symbol “D” corresponds to the difunctional fraction (CH3)SiO2 / 2 in which two of the available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bind to oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The “D” fraction, which is the essential component of dimethicone oils, can be represented by the following formula:

[0236] The symbol “T” corresponds to the trifunctional fraction (CH3)SiO3 / 2, in which three of the available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The “T” fraction can be re- presented by the following structure:

[0237]

[0238] As in fraction "M", any of the methyl groups can be replaced in "D" or "T" by an R group other than methyl. Finally, the symbol "Q" corresponds to a tetrafunctional SiO4 / 2 fraction, where the four available bonds on the silicon atom are used to bond with oxygen for the formation of the polymer chain. The "Q" fraction can be represented by the following structure:

[0239]

[0240]

[0241]

[0242]

[0243]

[0244] As described above, in one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-4) film-forming polymer can be selected from siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, and a resin obtained by hydroxysilylation. Any siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, or resin obtained by hydroxysilylation that acts as a film-forming polymer can be used in the composition of the present invention. Preferably, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer, such as a silicone resin, is crosslinked. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer can be selected from substituted siloxysilicate, silsesquioxane, and a resin obtained by hydroxysilylation. A substituted siloxysilicate or a substituted silsesquioxane can be, for example, a siloxysilicate or a silsesquioxane in which a methyl group has been replaced by a longer carbon chain, such as an ethane, propane, or butane chain. The carbon chain can be saturated or unsaturated. According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer can be selected from siloxysilicate, such as MQ resins represented by the following formula: [(CH3)3SiO1 / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y (MQ fractions) where x and y can have values ​​ranging from 20 to 100, preferably from 50 to 80. According to another embodiment of the present invention, a siloxysilicate can be chosen from any combination of fractions of M and Q such as, for example, [(R)3Si]x(SiO4 / 2)y, where R is chosen from a methyl group and a chain longer carbon.

[0245] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer can be chosen from silsesquioxane represented by the following formula:

[0246] (CH3SiO3 / 2)x (fractions T),

[0247] where x has a value that can go up to several thousand and the CH3 can be replaced by an R, as described above for the fractions T.

[0248] Preferably, the (a-3-2) film-forming polymer is trimethylsiloxysilicate, for example, marketed by Momentive Performance Materials under the name SR 1000 MQ Resin.

[0249] The amount of (a-3-2) film-forming polymer(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0250] The amount of (a-3-2) film-forming polymer(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] The quantity of (a-3-2) film-forming polymer(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] (Water)

[0253] The W / O type cosmetic composition comprises (b-1) water.

[0254] (b-1) water may be present in the (b) aqueous phase of the composition E / H type cosmetics.

[0255] The amount of (b-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 5% by weight or more, preferably 10% by weight or more and more preferably 15% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] The amount of (b-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 35% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less and more preferably 25% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] The quantity of (b-1) water in the above W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 5% to 35% by weight, preferably from 10% to 30% by weight and more preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. {Optional ingredient for the aqueous phase}

[0258] The (b) aqueous phase may include (b-2) at least one optional ingredient. If two or more (b-2) optional ingredients are used for the (b) aqueous phase, they may be the same or different.

[0259] The (b-2) optional ingredient for the (b) aqueous phase can be selected from hydrophilic thickeners, polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0260] (Hydrophilic thickener)

[0261] The W / O type cosmetic composition may include (b-2-1) at least one hydrophilic thickener. If two or more (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be identical or different.

[0262] The (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener is present in the (b) aqueous phase.

[0263] According to the present invention, the "hydrophilic thickener" can increase the viscosity of the (b) aqueous phase into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (the viscosity can be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0264] The (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener(s) is / are preferably chosen from non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar motifs, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar motifs, associative thickening polymers, and mixtures of these compounds.

[0265] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "sugar motif" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and comprising at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0266] The sugar motifs may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0267] The sugar motifs that can be included in the hydrophilic thickening polymers of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0268] Examples of non-associative thickening polymers include hyaluronic acid and its salts, such as sodium hyaluronate.

[0269] Non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar motifs that may be cited include native gums such as: a. tree or shrub exudates, including: • gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • Ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); • karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • Tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, of fucose, xylose and arabinose); a. Gums derived from algae, including: • agar-agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); • alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); • carrageenans and furcelleranes (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); a. gums derived from seeds or tubers, including: • guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); • tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); • konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); a. microbial gums, including: • xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); • gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); • scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); a. plant extracts, including: • cellulose (glucose polymer); • starch (glucose polymer) and • Inulin.

[0270] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Temperature can be mentioned in particular as a physical treatment.

[0271] Chemical treatments that may be cited include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may be nonionic, anionic, or amphoteric, among others.

[0272] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0273] Non-ionic guar gums that can be used according to the present invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6.

[0274] Among the (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C6, examples include hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0275] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0276] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functional groups present on the guar gum.

[0277] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are marketed, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0278] The botanical origin of the starch molecules that can be used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from maize starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0279] Starches can be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatment.

[0280] Preferably, distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will be used, for example, products marketed under the names Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropyl gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized cassava acetyldistar phosphate) by Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).

[0281] According to the present invention, amphoteric starches can also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of the carboxylic, phosphate, or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amine type.

[0282] Starch molecules can be derived from any plant source of starch, in particular maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley, or wheat. Hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above may also be used. Preferably, the starch is derived from potato.

[0283] The non-associative thickening polymers of the present invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a Cio-C3o fatty chain in their structure.

[0284] According to the present invention, the expression "cellulose-based polymer" means any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked together via [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0285] Thus, the cellulose polymers that can be used according to the present invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0286] Among these cellulose-based polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers.

[0287] Cellulose esters include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetobutyrates, acetopropionates and acetotrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetobutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetopropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ester ethers include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0288] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a C10-C30 fatty chain, namely those that are "non-associative", examples include (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (e.g., Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C10-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (e.g., Natrosol 250 HHR supplied by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (e.g., Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C10-C4)alkyl-(C10-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (e.g., Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical); hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl celluloses (e.g., Akzo Nobel's Bermocoll E 481 FQ) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0289] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, (poly)carboxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and their salts may be mentioned. By way of example, carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and their sodium salts may be mentioned.

[0290] Among cationic cellulose ethers without a fat chain, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, may be mentioned, such as (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl celluloses, for example, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Commercial products corresponding to this definition are, more particularly, those marketed under the names Celquat L 200® and Celquat H 100® by National Starch.

[0291] Among the non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar units that can be used according to the present invention, homopolymers or cross-linked acrylic acid or methacrylic acid copolymers, cross-linked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their cross-linked acrylamide copolymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers, alone or in mixtures.

[0292] Crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers represent a first family of non-associative thickening polymers suitable for use.

[0293] Among the homopolymers of this type, we can cite those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether from the sugar range, for example, the products marketed under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products marketed under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VS A. These polymers bear the INCI name Carbomer.

[0294] Non-associative thickening polymers can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer marketed under the name Aqua SF1 by Noveon.

[0295] In addition, as a (b-2) hydrophilic thickener, the following may be cited:

[0296] crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate polymers, preferably crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and / or (meth)acrylate, and more preferably crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, such as, for example, those marketed under the names Octacare X100, XI10 and RM100 by Avecia, those marketed under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by SNF, those marketed under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1100 by BASF, those marketed under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Hodium Acrylate Copolymer) by Grain Processing, or Aqua Keep 10 SH NF supplied by Sumitomo Seika, or Aqupec MG N40R (name INCI: Sodium Carbomer) supplied by Sumitomo Seika.

[0297] Non-associative thickening polymers can be selected from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.

[0298] Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide, particular mention may be made of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document concerning these polymers.

[0299] The composition may also include, as non-associative thickening polymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers.

[0300] Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that can be cited is the product marketed under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by Hoechst. Among the ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers that can be cited is The product marketed under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 marketed by the company Hoechst. Reference can be made in particular to documents FR 2 416 723, US 2 798 053 ​​and US 2 923 692 with regard to the description and preparation of these compounds.

[0301] Cationic thickening polymers of the acrylic type can also be used.

[0302] Among hydrophilic thickening polymers, associative polymers, which are well known to those skilled in the art, can also be mentioned, particularly those of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

[0303] It is recalled that associative polymers are polymers capable, in aqueous media, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0304] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

[0305] The term "hydrophobic group" means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0306] Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also designate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example, polybutadiene.

[0307] Among the anionic associative polymers that may be cited are: a. those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif and at least one fatty chain allyl ether motif, more particularly those whose hydrophilic motif consists of an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly, a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly, an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.Among the anionic associative polymers, those which are particularly preferred according to the present invention are polymers formed of 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether, and 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer, for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide. Among these latter polymers, those which are most particularly preferred are the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and stearyl alcohol ether of polyethylene glycol (10 OE) (Steareth-10), in particular those marketed by the company CIBA under the names Salcare. SC80® and Salcare SC90®, which are aqueous emulsions of 30% of a crosslinked ter-polymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 allylic ether (40 / 50 / 10). b. those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic motif of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type and ii) at least one hydrophobic motif of the C10-C30 alkyl ester of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type. The C10-C30 alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids that are useful in the present invention include, for example, the following esters: lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates: lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate. Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US patents 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, particular use will be made of those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 4% to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C30 (hydrophobic motif), and 0% to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or alternatively those consisting of 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic motif), 1% to 4% by weight of alkyl acrylate in C10-C30 (hydrophobic motif) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer such as those described above. Among the aforementioned polymers, those most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products marketed by Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TRI ®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferably Pemulen TRI®, and the product marketed by SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.We can also mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer marketed under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP; . c. C30-C38 maleic anhydride / α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (C30-C38 maleic anhydride / α-olefin copolymer / isopropyl maleate) marketed under the name Performa V 1608® by Newphase Technologies. d. acrylic terpolymers comprising: i. approximately 20% to 70% by weight of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated [α] carboxylic acid ii. about 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant monomer α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated other than [α], iii. approximately 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / behenyl alcohol terpolymer dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 OE) in the form of a 25% aqueous dispersion; a. Copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an oxyalkylated fatty alcohol. Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as a monomer, an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and a Ci-C4 alcohol.

[0308] An example of a compound of this type which may be cited is Aculyn 22® marketed by Rohm & Haas, which is a terpolymer of oxyalkylated methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate; and also Aculyn 88, also marketed by Rohm & Haas. a. Amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic acid group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized, and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked. The ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic acid group are selected in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(Cr C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

[0309] (Method)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, shall be used more preferably.

[0310] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used in particular.

[0311] Polymers of this family can be selected in particular from among the polymers statistically modified amphiphilic AMPS by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in patent application WO 00 / 31154. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl [3-substituted] derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0312] Preferred polymers of this family are chosen from among amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

[0313] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their alkyl [3-substituted] derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

[0314] These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 750 899, US patent 5 089 578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima: • Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336; • Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 3694-3704 ; • Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties co-valently bound to a polyelectrolyte: sait effects on rheological behavior -Langmuir, 2000 Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332 ; • Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221.

[0315] Parmi ces polymères, on peut citer : • crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers comprising 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS motifs and 40% to 85% by weight of (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C8-C16)alkyl(meth)acrylate motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A750 899; • terpolymers comprising from 10% by mol to 90% by mol of motifs acrylamide, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS motifs and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5,089,578.

[0316] We can also mention copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

[0317] Among cationic associative polymers, we can mention:

[0318] (a) associative cationic polyurethanes;

[0319] (b) the compound marketed by Noveon under the name Aqua CC and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer. The cross-linked polyacrylate-1 polymer is the product of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: • a di(Cl-C4 alkyl)amino(Cl-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, • one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, • a polyethoxylated C30-CIO alkyl methacrylate (20 to 25 moles of ethylene oxide motifs), • a 30 / 5 polyethylene glycol / allyl ether polypropylene glycol, • a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and • an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0320] (c) quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, or al-kylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals present in the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses above preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl, or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C[8] alkyl) marketed by Aqualon, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C[8] alkyl) marketed by Croda and the product Softcat SL 100® marketed by Aqualon;

[0321] (d) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.

[0322] These polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0323] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the present invention, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacryl-amidopropylammonium terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacryl- midopropylammonium, vinylpyrrolidone / di-methylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers or lauryldimethylmethacryl-midopropylammonium chloride are used in particular.

[0324] Amphoteric associative polymers are preferably selected from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic motif. More particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 1.5 to 15 mol%, and even more particularly 1.5 to 6 mol% of fatty chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers are preferred.

[0325] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the present invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.

[0326] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the present invention, those that are preferred are the acrylic acid / (meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.

[0327] The non-ionic associative polymers that can be used for the present invention are preferably selected from:

[0328] (a) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic chain monomers fat, among which, we can cite as examples: • Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® products (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer), marketed by the company ISP, • Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® products (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer), marketed by the company ISP,

[0329] (b) Copolymers of methacrylates or alkyl acrylates in C1-C6 and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for example the methyl acrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208®,

[0330] (c) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hy monomers drophobes comprising at least one fatty chain, for example polyethylene glycol / lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

[0331] (d) Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic sequences usually of a polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences;

[0332] (e) polymers with an aminoplastic ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds marketed by the company Sud-Chemie;

[0333] (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least a fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof in which the alkyl groups are at C8, and in particular: • non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (alkyl in Ci6) products marketed by the company Aqualon; • non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the Amercell HM-1500 product marketed by the company Amerchol; • non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 marketed by the company Berol Nobel;

[0334] (g) associative guar derivatives, for example hydroxypropyl guars modified by a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified by an alkyl chain at C22) marketed by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified by an alkyl chain at CM) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by an alkyl chain at C 20) marketed by Rhodia Chimie.

[0335] Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon-based chains containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence. The hydrocarbon-based chains may be side chains or chains at the ends of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, one or more side chains may be used. Furthermore, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one or both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

[0336] Polyurethane polyethers can be multi-sequenced, particularly in tri-sequenced form. The hydrophobic sequences can be at each end of the chain (e.g., a triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central sequence) or distributed both at the ends and throughout the chain (e.g., a multiblock copolymer). These same polymers can also be grafted polymers or star polymers.

[0337] Nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic sequence of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane linkage between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

[0338] By extension, also included among non-ionic fatty chain polyether polyurethanes are those in which hydrophilic sequences are linked to lipophilic sequences via other chemical bonds.

[0339] By way of examples of non-ionic fat chain polyether polyurethanes which can be used in the present invention, Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, marketed by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®, can also be used.

[0340] Another example is the product Elfacos T210® bearing a C12-C alkyl chain. 14, and the Elfacos T212® product bearing a C[8] alkyl chain, from Akzo.

[0341] The Rohm & Haas product DW 1206B® bearing a C2o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, marketed at a dry matter content of 20% in water, can also be used.

[0342] Solutions or dispersions of these polymers can also be used, particularly in water or in aqueous-alcoholic media. Examples of such polymers include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278, and Rheolate® 244, marketed by Rheox. DW 1206F and DW 1206J, marketed by Rohm & Haas, can also be used.

[0343] Polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the present invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0344] It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyurethane polyether which can be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0345] These polyurethane polyethers are marketed in particular by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0346] The amount of (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0347] The quantity of the (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0348] The quantity of the (b-2-1) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0349] (Polyol)

[0350] The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise (b-2-2) at least one polyol. Two or more different types of (b-2-2) polyols can be used in combination.

[0351] The term "polyol" here means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or a derivative thereof. A derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more hydroxy groups thereof has been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

[0352] The polyols used in the present invention are liquid at room temperature, for example 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa).

[0353] The polyol may be a C2-C24 polyol, preferably a C2-C9 polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

[0354] The polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

[0355] The polyol can be selected from glycerins, glycols and mixtures thereof. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, C6-C24 polyethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol and a mixture thereof.

[0356] It is preferable that the (b-2-2) polyol be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and one of their mixtures.

[0357] The amount of (b-2-2) polyol(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0358] The amount of (b-2-2) polyol(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0359] The quantity of (b-2-2) polyol(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0360] (Coloring agent)

[0361] The W / O type cosmetic composition may comprise (c) at least one colouring agent. If two (c) or more colouring agents are used, they may be identical or different.

[0362] The (c) coloring agent may be present in the (a) oil phase or the (b) phase aqueous, depending on the nature of (c) coloring agent. Thus, (c) coloring agent can be (a-3) optional ingredient for (a) oil phase or (b-2) optional ingredient for (b) aqueous phase, depending on the nature of (c) coloring agent.

[0363] In one embodiment, the (c) coloring agent may be selected from dyes, pigments and mixtures thereof.

[0364] In the present invention, the (c) colouring agent may be soluble in water or dispersible in water, soluble in oil or dispersible in oil or of limited solubility in water.

[0365] In one embodiment, the (c) coloring agent may be chosen from coloring pigments.

[0366] The term “colour pigments” should be understood as designating white or coloured particles, inorganic or organic, of any shape, which are insoluble and intended to colour or dye the skin or lips.

[0367] Pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.

[0368] Among the usable inorganic pigments, the following may be mentioned without limitation: titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated; zirconium or cerium oxide; zinc, iron, or chromium oxide (black, yellow, or red); manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium hydrate; and ferric blue; or metallic powders, such as aluminum or copper powder. The pigments may also be selected from nanopigments formed of metallic oxides, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, and cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof. "Nanopigments" means pigments with an average particle size range of 1 nm to 500 nm, such as, for example, particle sizes between 10 nm and 100 nm.

[0369] Among the usable organic pigments, mention may be made, without limitation, of carbon black, D&C type pigments and lakes, such as lakes based on cochineal carmine and barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum. For example, Red 33 (5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disodium disulfonate) and Red 202 (calcium bis[2-(3-carboxy-2-hydroxynephthylazo)-5-methylbenzenesulfonate) can be used as D&C type pigments.

[0370] The organic pigment may also be a diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) such as those described in documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96 / 08537.

[0371] The organic pigment can be chosen from bio-pigments such as Bio-ChromaDerm® or BioChromaEyes® supplied by Biotic Phocea in France.

[0372] Preferably, the colouring pigment may be chosen from metallic oxides such as titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide and chromium oxide; manganese violet; Prussian blue; the ultramarine blue; chromium hydrate; ferric blue; aluminum powder; copper powder; carbon black; D&C type pigments; lakes; pearlescent pigments; and mixtures thereof.

[0373] By “pearl pigments” means iridescent particles of any shape, such as particles produced by certain shellfish in their shells or synthesized.

[0374] Pearlescent agents may be selected from white pearlescent agents, such as mica coated with titanium dioxide or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent agents, such as mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide and an organic pigment of the type mentioned above, and pearlescent agents based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0375] It is preferable to choose the (c) coloring agent from among the hydrophobic pigments.

[0376] It is preferable to choose the hydrophobic pigment from among the hy-coated pigments Hydrophobic pigments. A "hydrophobic coated pigment" is defined as any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The term "lipophilic compound" refers to any compound soluble or dispersible in oil. The term "hydrophobic compound" refers to any compound insoluble in water.

[0377] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments to be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound are chosen from inorganic and organic pigments.

[0378] The hydrophobic pigment may have at least one coating comprising at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This lipophilic or hydrophobic coating may be present on the outermost surface of the hydrophobic pigment.

[0379] For the purposes of the present invention, the "coating" of a pigment generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface treatment agent, absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto said pigment. Thus, hydrophobic pigments can be surface-treated pigments.

[0380] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanochemical, or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used as surface-treated pigments.

[0381] The surface treatment agent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

[0382] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

[0383] The hydrophobic pigment may also comprise at least one coating including at least one non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound, for example, at least one hydrophilic compound. For example, the non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic compound may be selected from a metal hydroxide such as hydroxide of aluminum and metallic chlorides such as magnesium chloride. This non-lipophilic or non-hydrophobic coating may be present between the pigment itself and the lipophilic or hydrophobic coating.

[0384] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.

[0385] The coating can be achieved, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface treatment agent onto the surface of solid pigment particles by simple mixing with agitation of the particles and said surface treatment agent, possibly with heating, before incorporating the particles into the other ingredients of the composition to be used for the present invention.

[0386] The coating can be achieved, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface treatment agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface treatment agent and the particles. This method is described in particular in US-B-4,578,266.

[0387] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting a surface treatment agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surface treatment agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.

[0388] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound selected from silicon-based surface treatment agents; fluorinated surface treatment agents; fluorosilicone surface treatment agents; metallic soaps; fatty acids; N-acylaminated acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; monoalkyl triacyl titanate such as isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0389] It is more preferable that (c) the coloring agent be chosen from pigments treated with mono-alkyl triacyl titanate. In a preferred embodiment, pigments suitable for use in the present invention are treated, for example, coated or coated, with mono-alkyl triacyl titanate. Mono-alkyl triacyl titanate, also called mono-alkyl titanate, can be represented by the formula RO-Ti-(OR')3, where R is an alkyl group and R' is an acyl group, which may be the same or different.

[0390] In certain embodiments of monoalkyl triacyl titanate, said alkyl is a C1.5 alkyl group, in particular a C1.4 alkyl group, and said acyl is derived from acrylic acid or a derivative of acrylic acid, for example methacrylic acid, or from a fatty acid. Acyl groups in particular are derived from a C1.5 fatty acid 6-3o, more particularly of a C12-24 fatty acid, and even more particularly of a C16-20 fatty acid. These fatty acids may be capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, hydroxystearic, and oleic acids. The acyl groups of these triacyl titanates may be identical or different. The preferred embodiment is mono-isopropyl triacyl titanate; see US Patent Application Publication No. 20050019284 (in particular paragraphs

[0038] -

[0052] ).

[0391] According to a preferred embodiment, monoalkyl triacetyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), isopropyl dimethacryl isos-tearoyl titanate, isopropyl dimethacryl isostearoyl titanate.

[0392] Preferably, the monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), also called isopropyl titanium triisostearate.

[0393] The pigment treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate may be a pigment treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate.

[0394] Monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least monoalkyl triacyl titanate. Monoalkyl triacyl titanate treated pigment may be treated solely with monoalkyl triacyl titanate, or treated with monoalkyl triacyl titanate and at least one additional surfactant such as a fluorinated surfactant or a silicone-based surfactant such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.

[0395] For example, isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment is a pigment treated with at least isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT). Isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate treated pigment may only be treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT), or treated with isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate (ITT) and at least one additional surface treatment agent such as a fluorinated surface treatment agent or a silicone-based surface treatment agent such as polydimethylsiloxane and triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.

[0396] Examples include pigments treated with triisostearyl isopropyl titanate marketed by, for example, KOBO under the trade name BWYO-12 (iron oxide CI 77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWRO-12 (iron oxide CI 77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWBO-12 (iron oxide CI 77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and / or TiO2 CR-50 12 (titanium dioxide CI 77891 coated with alumina and isopropyl titanium triisostearate).

[0397] The quantity of the (c) colouring agent(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0398] The quantity of the (c) colouring agent(s) in the oil-in-water type cosmetic composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0399] The quantity of the (c) colouring agent(s) in the W / O type cosmetic composition may be from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0400] (Optional additional ingredients)

[0401] The W / H type cosmetic composition may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, ingredients typically used in cosmetics, including fillers, cationic, anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants, UV filters, preservatives, or the like, within a range that does not adversely affect the effects of the present invention.

[0402] The W / O type cosmetic composition may include the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Preparation process]

[0403] The W / O type cosmetic composition described above can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients described above in a specific manner.

[0404] According to the present invention, the W / O type cosmetic composition can be prepared by a process comprising the steps of: 1. Preparation of a fluid oil phase (a) by mixing

[0405] (a-1) of at least one oil,

[0406] (a-2) of at least one crystallizable wax that has been melted and

[0407] (a-3) of at least one optional ingredient for the (a) oil phase; 1. Preparation of a fluid aqueous phase (b) by mixing

[0408] (b-1) of water and

[0409] (b-2) of at least one optional ingredient for the aqueous phase (b); 1. Mixing the (a) fluid oil phase with the (b) fluid aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystallizable wax is not crystallized to obtain a mixture of (a) the fluid oil phase and (b) the fluid aqueous phase and 2. Cooling of the mixture obtained by step (3) to prepare the W / O type cosmetic composition,

[0410] in which

[0411] the mixture obtained by step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during step (4), at least at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) wax cris- Tallisable begins.

[0412] In step (1), an (a) oil phase is prepared by mixing at least (a-1) at least one oil and (a-2) at least one crystallizable wax that has already been melted. If necessary, (a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) oil phase may also be mixed in to form the (a) oil phase. Examples of the (a-3) optional ingredient include (a-3-1) indene resins, (a-3-2) film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof, as explained above.

[0413] The (a) fatty phase prepared by step (1) is in the form of a fluid, such as a liquid.

[0414] Step (1) can be carried out at any temperature as long as the (a) oil phase is fluid.

[0415] In one embodiment, step (1) may be carried out at a temperature above the melting point of the (a-2) crystallizable wax. For example, step (1) may be carried out at 80 °C or higher, preferably at 85 °C or higher, and more preferably at 90 °C or higher. If two or more crystallizable waxes are used, step (1) must be carried out at a temperature above the highest melting point of the crystallizable waxes.

[0416] In step (2), an aqueous phase (b) is prepared by mixing at least (b-1) water. If necessary, (b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the aqueous phase (b) may also be mixed to form the aqueous phase (b). Examples of the optional ingredient (b-2) include hydrophilic thickeners (b-2-1), polyols (b-2-2), and mixtures thereof.

[0417] The (b) aqueous phase prepared by step (2) is in the form of a fluid, such as a liquid.

[0418] Step (2) can also be carried out at any temperature as long as (b) the aqueous phase is fluid. It is preferable to carry out step (2) at a high temperature. It may be preferable for step (2) to be carried out at 60 °C or higher, preferably at 70 °C or higher, and more preferably, at 80 °C or higher.

[0419] In step (3), the (a) oil phase and the (b) aqueous phase are mixed at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystallizable wax is not crystallized to obtain a mixture of the (a) oil phase and the (b) aqueous phase.

[0420] In one embodiment, step (3) can be carried out at a temperature higher than the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallizable wax.

[0421] (a-2) crystallizable wax can form crystals at a crystallization temperature. Thus, the crystallization of (a-2) crystallizable wax begins at the crystallization temperature. The crystallization temperature can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter marketed under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company.

[0422] It may be preferable for step (3) to be carried out at 60 °C or higher, preferably at 70 °C or higher, and more preferably at 80 °C or higher. In the mixture, the (a) oil phase may constitute a continuous phase and the (b) aqueous phase may constitute dispersed phases.

[0423] In step (4), the above mixture thus obtained by step (3) is cooled to obtain the W / O type cosmetic composition.

[0424] During step (4), the mixture obtained by step (3) is subjected to a shear stress, at least, at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins. Thus, a shear stress can be applied to the above mixture, at least at the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) wax.

[0425] The temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins may be less than 90 °C, preferably less than 85 °C and more preferably, less than 80 °C.

[0426] It may be preferable, in step (4), that the mixture of the (a) oily phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained by step (3) be subjected to a shear stress after the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.

[0427] It may also be preferable that, in step (4), the mixture of the (a) oil phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained by step (3) be subjected to shear stress also before the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.

[0428] Thus, it may be preferable to apply a shear stress before and / or after the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins. In one embodiment, a shear stress may be applied to the above mixture below and / or above the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallizable wax, such as in a crystallization temperature range of ±15 °C, preferably the crystallization temperature of ±10 °C and more preferably, the crystallization temperature of ±5 °C. For example, if the crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallizable wax is 75 °C, a shear stress can be applied, at least, at 75 °C, and can be applied at 75 °C ± 15 °C, preferably at 75 °C ± 10 °C and more preferably, at 75 °C ± 5 °C.

[0429] The method of applying the shear stress is not limited. Any conventional device that induces a shear stress may be used.

[0430] For example, in step (4), the shear stress can be applied to the mixture of the (a) oil phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained by step (3) with:

[0431] at least one mechanical device selected from the group consisting of a propeller mixer, a rotor / stator homogenizer, a scraped surface heat exchanger, an extruder and a static mixer;

[0432] and / or

[0433] at least one cavitation device selected from the group consisting of a high-pressure homogenizer and an ultrasonicizer.

[0434] It is preferable to use a device to apply a slight shear stress. An example of this type of device is explained below.

[0435] Figures 1 and 2 respectively represent a longitudinal sectional view and a cross-sectional view of such a device 1.

[0436] The device 1 shown in Figures 1 and 2 comprises a cylinder 11 which includes a cylindrical space 12. In the space 12, a rotor 13 in the form of a rod is present along the longitudinal direction of the cylinder 11 so that the rotor 13 can be rotated along the central axis of the cylindrical space 12 by the drive force delivered by a motor or similar which is not shown in Figures 1 and 2.

[0437] In the embodiment shown in Figures 1 and 2, the rotor 13 is equipped with two blades 14, 14, each fixed to the rotor 13 by a blade attachment 15 and extending along the rotor 13. The blades 14, 14 can rotate in the cylindrical space 12 as shown in [Fig. 2]. The number of blades is not limited. In the device 1 shown in Figures 1 and 2, the number of blades is two.

[0438] The edge of each of the blades 14, 14 is close to the inner surface of the cylindrical space 12, so that a shear stress can form and be applied between the edge of the blade 14 and the inner surface of the cylindrical space 12.

[0439] The device 1 shown in Figures 1 and 2 is not of the discontinuous type but of the continuous type. Thus, the mixture of the (a) oil phase and the (b) aqueous phase can be introduced into the cylindrical space 12 via the inlet 16 and discharged through the outlet 17.

[0440] In the cylindrical space 12, the mixture of the (a) oil phase and the (b) aqueous phase can pass through the space between the edge of the blade 14 and the inner surface of the cylindrical space 12, and a shear stress can be applied to the mixture during the passage through the space.

[0441] It is preferable that the cylinder 11 have at least one external sheath including a heating or cooling means so that the temperature in the cylindrical space 12 can be well controlled. Thus, it is preferable that the device 1 have at least one sensor for detecting the temperature in the cylindrical space 12, and at least one control means for controlling the temperature in the cylindrical space 12.

[0442] Thus, a W / O type cosmetic composition can be obtained by applying a shear stress, during cooling, to the above mixture, at least at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins. In other words, a shear stress can have been applied to the W / O cosmetic composition, at least at a crystallization temperature of the (a-2) wax crystallizable.

[0443] Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the application of a shear stress when the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins at a crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallizable wax can control the formation of crystal nuclei of the (a-2) crystallizable wax, which can form a uniform distribution of wax crystals with a new network structure that can contribute to the softness.

[0444] Thus, a W / O type cosmetic composition can be obtained comprising a continuous oily phase and dispersed aqueous phases.

[0445] The process according to the present invention may further include an additional step (5) of mixing at least one additional ingredient with the mixture of the (a) oil phase and the (b) aqueous phase obtained by step (3), after step (3) and before step (4). An additional ingredient (or ingredients) may be (c) a coloring agent, as explained above. [Shape]

[0446] The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is of the E / H type.

[0447] The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is a com cosmetic position of type W / O, preferably a solid cosmetic composition of type W / O, and more preferably a solid cosmetic emulsion of type W / O.

[0448] It is preferable that the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention be a water-in-wax / oil type composition, more preferably a water-in-wax / oil type emulsion.

[0449] The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can be a solid cosmetic emulsion of the W / O type, in particular if the composition includes at least one emulsifier such as a surfactant.

[0450] It is preferable that the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention be in the form of a solid. The term "solid" here refers to a state that is not fluid under atmospheric pressure (101325 Pa) and at ambient temperature (25 °C).

[0451] The W / H type cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to the present invention may have a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm and more preferably, less than 4.4 g / mm.

[0452] Here, the hardness of a composition can be evaluated using the "butter wire" method. This method involves cutting the composition in the form of a 9 mm diameter rod with a metal wire at a speed of 0.16–0.19 cm / s at 20 °C and measuring its hardness using a force measuring machine such as the Ametek Chatillon™. The hardness measured using this method can be expressed in grams per mm² as the maximum shear force required to cut the stick under the above conditions. [Cosmetic use and process]

[0453] The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic makeup composition and more preferably, a lipstick.

[0454] The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can be used for cosmetic treatments, preferably makeup, of a keratinous substance such as skin and the surface of a mucous membrane such as the lips.

[0455] Therefore, the present invention may relate to a cosmetic process for a keratinous substance such as skin and lips comprising: the application, on the keratinous substance, of the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention.

[0456] For example, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process of making up a keratinous substance such as skin and the surface of a mucous membrane, comprising the step of applying the composition to the keratinous substance.

[0457] The composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can provide cosmetic effects, in particular makeup effects, such as coloring of the keratinous substance. Furthermore, the composition prepared by the process according to the present invention can exert long-lasting makeup and / or color-transfer-resistant effects.

[0458] The present invention may also relate to the use of shear stress in the manufacture of a W / O type cosmetic composition, comprising: a. a continuous oily phase comprising:

[0459] (a-1) at least one oil and

[0460] (a-2) at least one crystallizable wax; and a. dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0461] (b-1) of water

[0462] at a crystallization temperature of the (a-2) crystallizable wax, so that the composition has a hardness of less than 5.6 g / mm, preferably less than 5.0 g / mm and more preferably less than 4.4 g / mm.

[0463] The present invention also relates to a method for controlling the crystallization of wax in a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition and more preferably, a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, the method comprising the steps of: 1. preparing a fluid oily phase (a) by mixing

[0464] (a-1) of at least one oil,

[0465] (a-2) of at least one crystallizable wax that has been melted and

[0466] (a-3) of at least one optional ingredient for the (a) oil phase; 1. Preparation of a fluid aqueous phase (b) by mixing

[0467] (b-1) of water and

[0468] (b-2) of at least one optional ingredient for the aqueous phase (b); 1. Mixing the (a) fluid oil phase with the (b) fluid aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystallizable wax is not crystallized to obtain a mixture of (a) the fluid oil phase and (b) the fluid aqueous phase and 2. Cooling of the mixture obtained in step (3) to form the W / O type cosmetic composition,

[0469] in which

[0470] the mixture obtained by step (3) is subjected to a shear stress during step (4), at least at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins. EXAMPLES

[0471] We will describe the present invention in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations within the field of the present invention. Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 [Preparations]

[0472] The compositions according to Example (Ex.) 1 and Comparative Example (Ex. Comp.) 1 in the form of a lipstick were prepared by mixing the ingredients indicated in Table 1 as follows.

[0473] (Example 1)

[0474] For example 1, a shear stress was applied during cooling from 90°C to 70°C. The detailed procedure is as follows.

[0475] All the ingredients for an oil phase other than pigments and volatile oils (isododecane and isohexadecane) from Table 1 were poured into a container and heated to 90 °C to ensure complete melting, then mixed and subsequently cooled to 85 °C to obtain a premix for an oil phase.

[0476] On the other hand, a premix for an aqueous phase was prepared by mixing all the ingredients for the aqueous phase (those indicated in Table 1).

[0477] The premix for the aqueous phase (85 °C) was added to the premix for an oily phase, then mixed so that emulsification was carried out during 10 minutes. Then, pigments and volatile oils were added to the container and mixed together for 5 minutes to obtain a mixture of the oil phase and the aqueous phase.

[0478] Next, the above mixture thus obtained was moved from the above container to the device shown in Figures 1 and 2 and cooled to 70 °C under shear stress using the device at 1500 rpm, then discharged from the device at 70 °C into a cylindrical mold which had been preheated to 60 °C.

[0479] The cylindrical mold was cooled to room temperature (25 °C), and the composition according to Example 1 in the form of a lipstick was discharged from the mold.

[0480] (Comparative Example 1)

[0481] For Comparative Example 1, no shear stress was applied during cooling from 90°C to 70°C. The detailed procedure is as follows.

[0482] All the ingredients for an oil phase other than pigments and volatile oils (isododecane and isohexadecane) from Table 1 were poured into a container and heated to 90 °C to ensure complete melting, then mixed and subsequently cooled to 85 °C to obtain a premix for an oil phase.

[0483] On the other hand, a premix for an aqueous phase was prepared by mixing all the ingredients for the aqueous phase (those indicated in Table 1).

[0484] The premix for the aqueous phase (85 °C) was added to the premix for an oily phase, then mixed so that emulsification was carried out for 10 minutes. Then, pigments and volatile oils were added to the container and mixed together for 5 minutes to obtain a mixture of the oily and aqueous phases.

[0485] Next, the mixture thus obtained was cooled to 70 °C without shear stress, then discharged from the container at 70 °C into a cylindrical mold which had been preheated to 60 °C.

[0486] The cylindrical mold was cooled to room temperature (25 °C), and the composition according to Example 1 in the form of a lipstick was discharged from the mold.

[0487] [Tables 1] % by weight Non-polar wax Polyethylene wax 10.0 Paraffin wax 1.3 Microcrystalline wax 0.9 Synthetic wax 0.4 Polar wax Jojoba esters 2.6 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax 1.5 Acacia decurrens flower wax 0.1 Polyglycerin-3 0.1 Glyceryl stearate 0.2 Pigments 8.6 Surfactant Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone 2.9 Dimethicone (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 Dimethicone 1.0 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate 1.0 Coco-Caprylate / Caprate oil 3.8 Hydrogenated polyisobutene q.s. 100 Isododecane 7.1 Isohexadecane 6.7 Copolymer Styrene / methylstyrene / indene 1.9 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 6.5 Aqueous phase Water 20.8 Sodium chloride 0.4 Glycerin 4.8 Pentylene glycol 1.9 Crosslinked acrylic polymer 0.2 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.3 Caprylyl glycol 0.3 Lauroyl Lysine 1,4 Silica 0,5 Dimethicone 0,5 Silica (and) dimethicone 0,5

[0488] [Tables2] Ex. 1 Ex. Comp. 1 Shear stress at crystallization temperature Yes No Hardness (g / mm) 4.0 7.7 Coefficient of static friction 1.26 2.27 Coefficient of dynamic friction 0.48 0.84 Application quantity (mg) 5.40 3.00 Sliding Very good Poor Deposition Very good Poor Smoothness to the touch Very good Poor Melting sensation Very good Poor [Reviews]

[0489] (Hardness)

[0490] The hardness of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was measured at 20 °C using a tester (Ametek's Chatillon™ DFGHS2) in which the composition was in the form of a 9 mm diameter cylinder that was maintained at 20 °C for more than one day before being cut. The hardness was determined as corresponding to the maximum shear force (g) per mm when the composition was cut vertically 1 cm from the edge of the cylinder with a wire at a speed of 0.16–0.19 cm / s at 20 °C.

[0491] The results are shown in Table 2 on the line “Hardness”.

[0492] (Static and dynamic friction coefficients / application quantity)

[0493] The static and dynamic friction coefficients of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were measured at 20 °C using a tester (HEIDON TRIBOGEAR TYPE 14FW) in which the composition cut for the above test concerning hardness was used.

[0494] The cut composition was fixed onto the tester so that the cross-section revealed by the cut either in front of a sheet of black synthetic leather, and the composition was applied to the sheet of synthetic leather with a vertical load of 50 g and stroked over 8 cm.

[0495] The amount of composition applied to the synthetic leather sheet was also measured.

[0496] The results are presented on the lines "Static friction coefficient", "Dynamic friction coefficient" and "Application quantity" of Table 2.

[0497] (Sensory tests)

[0498] Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was applied to the lips of 4 panelists. The degrees of glide, deposit, softness to the touch, and melting sensation were evaluated by assigning a score from 1 to 5. The score was averaged and ranked according to the following criteria:

[0499] Very good: 4 to 5

[0500] Good: from 3 to less than 4

[0501] Bad: from 2 to less than 3

[0502] Very bad: from 1 to less than 2

[0503] The results are presented on the "Glide", "Deposit", "Softness to touch" and "Melt sensation" lines of Table 2.

[0504] (Microscopic analysis)

[0505] The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were subjected to X-ray computed tomography. The photographs obtained under the microscope of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 are shown respectively in Figures 3 and 4.

[0506] In the binary images shown in Figures 3 and 4, the white areas correspond to those in which wax crystals are present, while the black areas correspond to those in which no wax is present.

[0507] Figure 3 shows that the composition according to Example 1 includes a dense distribution but homogeneous particles of wax crystals.

[0508] On the other hand, [Fig.4] shows that the composition according to Comparative Example 1 includes a less homogeneous or uneven distribution of wax crystal particles.

[0509] (Summary)

[0510] The composition according to Example 1, which corresponds to the W / O cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to the present invention, showed superior mildness, even though it includes a relatively large amount of waxes.

[0511] In addition, the composition according to Example 1 exhibited lower coefficients of friction and provided a higher application quantity of the composition during application, which could contribute to a smooth application and a sufficient amount of deposit per application.

[0512] In addition, the composition according to Example 1 also showed superior ease of use in terms of smooth gliding, deposition of the composition in appropriate quantity, soft feel to the touch and melting sensation.

[0513] The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which does not correspond to the W / O cosmetic composition prepared by the process according to the present invention, showed lower softness, higher coefficients of friction, a lower application quantity of the composition during application and lower ease of use.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for preparing a W / O type cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic composition and more preferably a solid W / O type cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous oily phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, comprising the steps of: (1) preparing a fluid oily phase (a) by mixing (a-1) at least one oil, (a-2) at least one crystallizable wax which has been melted and (a-3) at least one optional ingredient for the (a) oily phase; (2) preparing a fluid aqueous phase (b) by mixing (b-1) water and (b-2) at least one optional ingredient for the aqueous phase (b);(3) mixing the (a) fluid oil phase with the (b) fluid aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystallizable wax is not crystallized to obtain a mixture of the (a) fluid oil phase and the (b) fluid aqueous phase and (4) cooling the mixture obtained by step (3) to prepare the W / O type cosmetic composition, wherein the mixture obtained by step (3) is subjected to shear stress during step (4), at least at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.;

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins is less than 90 °C, preferably less than 85 °C and more preferably, less than 80 °C.

3. A method according to claims 1 or 2, wherein the mixture obtained by step (3) is subjected to shear stress during step (4) after the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.

4. A method according to claim 3, wherein the mixture obtained by step (3) is also subjected to shear stress during step (4) before the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.

5. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the shear stress is applied to the mixture obtained by step (3) with at least one mechanical device selected from the group consisting of a propeller mixer, a rotor / stator homogenizer, a scraped surface heat exchanger, an extruder and a static mixer.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the shear stress is applied to the mixture obtained by step (3) with at least one cavitation device selected from the group consisting of a high-pressure homogenizer and an ultrasonicator.

7. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the process further comprises a step (5) of additionally mixing at least one additional ingredient with the mixture obtained by step (3), after step (3) and before step (4).

8. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (a-2) crystallizable wax comprises (a-2-1-1) nonpolar crystallizable wax having a melting point of 80 °C or higher, (a-2-1-2) nonpolar crystallizable wax having a melting point below 80 °C, and (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax, and the amount of the (a-2-1-1) nonpolar crystallizable wax(s) having a melting point of 80 °C or higher is 40% by weight or higher, preferably 50% by weight or higher, and more preferably 60% by weight or higher, relative to the total weight of the (a-2-1-1) nonpolar crystallizable wax(s) having a melting point of 80 °C or higher, of the (a-2-1-2) non-polar crystallizable wax(s) having a melting point below 80 °C and (a-2-2) polar crystallizable wax(s).

9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of (b-1) water in the W / O type cosmetic composition is 5% to 40% by weight, preferably 10% to 35% by weight and more preferably 15% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. A method for controlling the crystallization of wax in a W / O cosmetic composition, preferably a solid W / O cosmetic composition and more preferably a solid W / O cosmetic emulsion, comprising a continuous oil phase and a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases, the method comprising the steps of: (1) preparing a fluid oil phase (a) by mixing (a-1) of at least one oil, (a-2) of at least one crystallizable wax that has been melted and (a-3) of at least one optional ingredient for the (a) fat phase; (2) preparation of a fluid aqueous phase (b) by mixing (b-1) of water and (b-2) of at least one optional ingredient for the aqueous phase (b); (3) mixing of the (a) fluid oil phase with the (b) fluid aqueous phase at a temperature at which the (a-2) crystallizable wax is not crystallized to obtain a mixture of (a) the fluid oil phase and (b) the fluid aqueous phase and (4) cooling of the mixture obtained in step (3) to form the W / O type cosmetic composition, in which the mixture obtained by step (3) is subjected to shear stress during step (4), at least at a temperature at which the crystallization of the (a-2) crystallizable wax begins.

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