Compositions containing bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a semi-crystalline polymer, and scleroglucan gum
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-03-29
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-10
AI Technical Summary
Existing sunscreens struggle to provide effective protection against both UVA and UVB rays while maintaining a pleasant texture and non-greasy feel, necessitating high levels of UV filters that are difficult to formulate into stable and aesthetically pleasing compositions.
Compositions comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, semi-crystalline polymers, and scleroglucan gum, preferably in an oil-in-water emulsion, with optional surfactants, to create a stable and pleasant-feeling UV protective formulation.
The compositions achieve high UV protection with a critical wavelength of at least 370 nm, SPF of at least 15, and UVA/UV ratios of 0.7 or more, while maintaining a non-greasy feel and long-lasting application.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Compositions containing bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a semi-crystalline polymer and scleroglucan gum FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present disclosure relates to compositions comprising 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine (INCI name: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), at least one semi-crystalline polymer and at least one scleroglucan gum, as well as methods of making and using such compositions. DISCUSSION OF THE CONTEXT
[0002] Radiation with wavelengths between 290 nm and 400 nm allows tanning of the human epidermis, while radiation with wavelengths between 290 and 320 nm, called UVB rays, hinders the development of a natural tan. Exposure is also likely to cause a detrimental change in the biomechanical properties of the epidermis, resulting in the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature aging of the skin (i.e., photoaging).
[0003] UVA rays with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate deeper into the skin than UVB rays. UVA rays cause immediate and persistent browning of the skin. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for a short time, under normal conditions can damage collagen fibers and elastin, resulting in changes in the skin's micro-relief, the appearance of wrinkles and uneven pigmentation (spots, uneven skin tone).
[0004] Numerous studies show the need for effective protection against UVA and UVB to prevent sunburn, photoaging, and the like.
[0005] In order to obtain a high protection product, it is generally necessary to combine a large number of sunscreens and / or a large quantity of UV filters to obtain high levels of filtration efficiency.
[0006] However, high levels of UV filters do not lend themselves to easy development of compositions having a stabilized and pleasant texture.
[0007] There remains a need in the art for improved consumer care compositions that possess organic UV filters and have pleasant application properties (e.g., non-greasy feel) and UV protective properties.
[0008] Therefore, one aspect of the present disclosure is a composition that has organic UV filters and has pleasant application properties (e.g., non-greasy feel) and UV protective properties. Summary of the Invention
[0009] The present disclosure relates to compositions comprising bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT or bemotrizinol), at least one semi-crystalline polymer and at least one scleroglucan gum. Preferably, the compositions are in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. Preferably, the compositions further comprise at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkylpolyglucosides, fatty acid polyol esters, anionic carboxylic surfactants or carboxylates, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the pH of the composition is equal to or greater than 6.
[0010] The present disclosure also relates to methods for treating, caring for, protecting, improving the appearance and / or making up a keratinous material comprising the application of compositions of the present disclosure to a keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat the keratinous material, take care of it, improve its appearance and / or make it up.
[0011] The present disclosure further relates to methods of making compositions comprising the combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, at least one semi-crystalline polymer and at least one scleroglucan gum during formation of the compositions. Preferably, the compositions are made in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. Preferably, the methods further comprise adding at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglucosides, polyol fatty acid esters, anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactants, and mixtures thereof, during formation of the compositions, preferably emulsion compositions. Preferably, the pH of the composition is equal to or greater than 6.
[0012] It should be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and do not limit the disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0013] In the following description and the claims appended thereto, it is to be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and customary meanings in the art, unless otherwise specified.
[0014] “Approximately” as used herein means within 10% of the number indicated (e.g., “about 10%” means 9% to 11% and “about 2%” means 1.8% to 2.2%.
[0015] “A” or “an,” as used herein, means “at least one”
[0016] “At least one” means one or more and thus includes components in individual as well as mixtures / combinations.
[0017] As used herein, all proposed ranges are intended to include every specific point and range within the given ranges, and a combination of subranges therein. Thus, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes the integers in the range 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc., as well as all fractional numbers in the range such as 1.2, 2.3, 3.4, etc., and subranges including these fractional numbers such as 1.5-3.8, 2-4.3, 4.2-4.9; etc.
[0018] “Film former”, “film-forming polymer” or “film-forming agent”, as used herein, means a polymer or resin that is capable of leaving a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, been absorbed into, and / or dissipated on the substrate.
[0019] “Substituted” as used herein means comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as hydrogen atoms or chlorine atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.
[0020] “Volatile,” as used herein, means having a flash point less than about 115°C.
[0021] “Non-volatile,” as used herein, means having a flash point greater than about 115°C.
[0022] “Polymer” as used herein means a compound that is comprised of at least two monomers.
[0023] “Exempt” or “substantially exempt” or “devoid of,” as used herein means that, although it is preferable that no amount of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible for there to be very small amounts thereof in the compositions of the disclosure provided that such amounts do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the compositions of the disclosure. Thus, for example, "dye-free" means that an effective amount (i.e., greater than trace amounts) of dye is omitted from the composition (i.e., about 0% by weight), "substantially dye-free" means that a dye is present in amounts not greater than 0.1% by weight, and "dye-free" means that a dye is present in amounts not greater than 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The same nomenclature applies to all other in ingredients identified throughout the application and in this paragraph such as, for example, specific UV filters and / or surfactants (compositions in the disclosure that are “oxybenzone and / or octinoxate-free,” “substantially oxybenzone and / or octinoxate-free,” and “oxybenzone and / or octinoxate-free,” as well as “surfactant-free,” “substantially surfactant-free,” and “surfactant-free” have meanings consistent with the discussion in this paragraph), even if not specifically discussed for each ingredient identified in the application. Discussed examples of the use of such language, such as those in this paragraph, are intended to be provided by way of example, not limitation.
[0024] “UV filters” as used herein means approved sunscreen active agents by a government regulatory agency such as the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States or the European Commission in Europe and includes avobenzone, octocrylene, benzophenones, benzotriazoles and merocyanines, as well as mineral UV filters such as zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO2).
[0025] “Anhydrous” as used herein means that the compositions of the disclosure contain less than 3% water, which means that the compositions may also contain less than 2% water, and less than 1% water, as well as be “water-free”, “substantially water-free” and “water-free”, as defined above.
[0026] “Keratinous materials” means nails (fingernails and / or toenails), skin such as the body, face and eye area, scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, and mucous membranes such as the lips.
[0027] “Physiologically acceptable” means compatible with keratinous materials and having a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and which does not cause unacceptable discomfort (tingling or pulling) that would discourage a consumer from using the composition. Preferably, the pH of the composition is equal to or greater than 6, preferably equal to or greater than 6.5, and preferably equal to or greater than 7.
[0028] “UV protection efficiency” or “filtering efficiency” in the context of the present disclosure, is evaluated from one or more of SPF, FPUVA, critical wavelength and UVA-1 / UV ratio.
[0029] The “SPF” (Sun Protection Factor) measures the level of protection against erythema provided by a composition. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum erythema dose (MED) measured on skin covered with the composition and the MED measured on bare skin. The term “SPF” is known in the art of sunscreens solar and is defined, for example, in the document A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).
[0030] The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) assessment can be carried out, for example, in vitro with a Labsphere spectrophotometer (North Sutton, NH, USA). In such an assessment, the plate is the material on which the composition under test is applied. For such an assessment, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates can be used. An example of an acceptable protocol is currently undergoing ISO accreditation as ISO Committee Draft 23675.
[0031] The evaluation of the sun protection factor (SPF) can also be carried out in vivo in accordance with the ISO 24444:2019 protocol "Cosmetics - Sunscreen test methods - In vivo determination of sun protection factor (SPF)." In addition, it can be determined in accordance with FDA protocols, as described in the document "Labeling and Effectiveness Testing; Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use" published in the US Federal Register on 07 / 05 / 2011 (https: / / www.federalregister.gOv / d / 2011-14766); 21 CFR Part 352 Subpart D § 352.72, updated and revised by the 2011 publication in the Federal Register.
[0032] “UVA protection factor” (UVA protection factor) refers to an index characterizing the UVA protection provided by a composition. For example, the UVAPF index may be measured in vivo in accordance with the “PPD” (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method of the ISO-24442:2022 protocol, measuring skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure. In addition, it may be determined in accordance with FDA protocols, as described in 21 CFR Part 352 Subpart D § 352.72 as discussed above in relation to SPF.
[0033] The assessment of UVA protection can also be measured in vitro with the Labsphere® spectrophotometer under conditions such as those mentioned above in relation to SPF. The ISO 24443:2021 protocol describes such an in vitro method.
[0034] The FDA's broad spectrum test procedures, specifically the "critical wavelength" test procedures, are also available in 21 CFR Part 352 Subpart D § 352.72. In addition, the broad spectrum test procedures include the determination of the UVA1 / UV ratio as described in "Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use" published in the Federal Register https: / / www.federalregister.gov / documents / 2019 / 02 / 26 / 2019-03Q19 / sunscreen-drug-pr oducts-for-over-the-counter-human-use. » In the test described in the monograph, known as the Boots adaptation of the Diffey / Robson test method, a ratio is generated between the protection provided by the sunscreen product against UVA1 (340 to 400 nm) and the protection against total UV radiation (UVB and UVA at 290 to 400 nm) calculated from the absorbance curve. This UVA1 / UV ratio would represent the product's score in the in vitro test.
[0035] According to the present disclosure, the compositions of the present disclosure preferably have one or more of the following properties:
[0036] The compositions have a critical wavelength, as determined by FDA critical wavelength procedures, of at least 370 nm;
[0037] The compositions have an SPF value of at least 15, preferably at least 30, preferably at least 50 and preferably at least 70;
[0038] The compositions have an FPUVA / SPF ratio of at least 1 / 3, and preferably at least 2 / 5; and / or
[0039] The compositions have a UVA1 / UV ratio of 0.7 or more, preferably 0.75 or more and most preferably 0.8 or more.
[0040] "Makeup result" as used herein relates to the visual impact of a composition when applied to a keratinous material such as skin. The makeup result may relate to the apparent color of the product after application to a keratinous material or an optical effect such as shine, the blurring of fine lines and imperfections, or a concealing effect on pores or defects after application of the product to the keratinous material.
[0041] “Long-lasting,” as used herein, refers to compositions where the color or other apparent properties remain the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as seen with the naked eye, after an extended period of time, or after a particular stress event such as immersion in water or rubbing. “Long-lasting” may be evaluated by evaluating long-lasting properties by any method for evaluating such properties known in the art. For example, long-lasting may be evaluated by a test involving the application of a composition to a keratinous material such as skin and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of a composition may be evaluated immediately after application to a keratinous material such as skin, and these characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after a period of time.In addition, these characteristics can be evaluated relative to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. “Long wear” can also be evaluated using in vitro methods on non-keratinous substrates such as polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), in which properties such as color, transparency, or in vitro SPF can be evaluated before and after a period or stressor such as immersion in water, incubation at elevated temperatures, or application of an abrasive technique.
[0042] “Natural” as in the expression “natural compound”, means any compound derived directly from a natural substance such as a plant without having undergone any mo- chemical construction.
[0043] “Naturally occurring compound” refers to any compound derived from a compound natural which has undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by organic synthesis reaction, without the properties of the natural compound having been modified.
[0044] “Synthetic compound” refers to any compound that is not a compound natural nor a naturally occurring compound.
[0045] “Room temperature” means approximately 20 to 25°C.
[0046] “Atmospheric pressure” means 760 mmHg, or approximately 105 pascals.
[0047] “UV filter” and “sunscreen agent” are used interchangeably in this request.
[0048] “UV efficacy” and “UV efficacy” are used interchangeably. changeable in this application.
[0049] The compositions and methods of the present disclosure may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the present disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. For example, the UV (ultraviolet) absorbing system of the compositions of the disclosure may "consist essentially of" bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.
[0050] For the purposes of the present disclosure, the “fundamental and novel property” associated with the compositions, components and methods which “consist essentially of” the identified ingredients or actions is “UVA protection indicated by the ratios of the UVA / SPF and UVA1 / UV”.
[0051] The compositions of the present disclosure may be in any form suitable for use as a personal care composition, such as a stick, paste, or cream. These compositions may be used for personal care purposes in cosmetic and / or dermatological products such as, for example, sunscreen, foundation, lip balms, lipsticks, concealers, mascaras, leave-in hair products, etc.
[0052] Reference is made herein to trade names of materials including, but not limited to, materials such as polymers and optional components. The materials are not intended to be limited to the materials described and referenced herein by a certain trade name. Equivalent materials (e.g., those obtained from a different source under a different catalog name or (reference) number) to those referenced by a trade name may be substituted and used in the methods described and claimed herein.
[0053] All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise stated. All percentages are, unless otherwise stated, calculated on the basis of the total weight. of a composition. All levels of component or composition refer to the active level of that component, or composition, and are exclusive of impurities, e.g., residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources.
[0054] All US patents or patent applications disclosed herein are expressly incorporated by reference in their entirety. Composition B is-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
[0055] According to the present disclosure, compositions comprising a UV (ultraviolet) absorbing system comprising 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Me-thoxyphenyl Triazine) are provided.
[0056] According to preferred embodiments, the UV absorbing system comprises at least 5% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, preferably at least 15% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, preferably at least 20% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, preferably at least 30% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, preferably at least 40% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, preferably at least 50% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, preferably at least 70% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, preferably at least 80% by weight of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and preferably at least 90% by weight bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, all weights based on the total weight of the light absorbing system.The “UV absorbing system” contains all the organic UV filters and / or all the mineral UV filters present in the composition.
[0057] According to preferred embodiments, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine is present in the compositions of the present disclosure in an effective UV absorbing amount such as, for example, from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, from about 1% to about 10% by weight, from about 2.5% to about 8% by weight, and from about 4% to about 6% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, from about 4.5% to about 10% by weight, and from about 1% to about 8% by weight, from about 1% to about 6% by weight, from about 5.5% to about 8% by weight, from about 5.7% to about 9% by weight, etc., all weights being based on the total weight of the composition. Additional organic UV filter(s)
[0058] According to preferred embodiments of the present disclosure, compositions comprising a UV absorbing system optionally further comprising at least one additional organic UV filter (in addition to bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine) are provided. Such compositions may also optionally further comprise one or more mineral UV filters such as zinc oxides, titanium oxides, cerium oxides and mixtures thereof, if desired, although the compositions may also be "free", "substantially free" or "devoid" of mineral UV filters.
[0059] The additional organic UV filter(s) may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. “Hydrophilic organic UV filter” means a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter (in colloidal form). “Lipophilic organic UV filter” means a UV filter which is dissolved or dispersed in colloidal form in a liquid fatty phase.
[0060] Suitable organic UV filters may be selected from the following non-exhaustive list of compounds: cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; para-aminobenzoic acid compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds other than bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds including those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5 237 071, US5 166 355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844;polymer filters and silicone filters such as those described in particular in application WO 93 / 04665; alkylstyrene-derived dimers such as those described in particular in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds such as those described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the lipophilic organic UV filters are chosen from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds other than bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; benzotriazole compounds; as well as other categories of compounds identified herein; and mixtures thereof. ;
[0061] Reference may specifically be made to suitable salicylic compounds including Homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), marketed for example under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries; and ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed for example under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS” by Symrise and glycol salicylate. Other examples of salicylate compounds include phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, for example marketed under the brand name “Dipsal” by Scher; and TEA salicylate, for example marketed under the brand name “Neo Heliopan TS” by Symrise.
[0062] Examples of suitable [3,[3-Diphenylacrylate] compounds include Octocrylene, for example marketed under the trademark "Uvinul N539" by BASF; and Etocrylene, for example marketed under the trademark "Uvinul N35" by BASF.
[0063] Suitable anthranilic compounds may include menthyl anthranilates, marketed for example under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by Symrise.
[0064] Examples of dibenzoylmethane compounds include Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, for example marketed under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by DSM; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
[0065] Suitable cinnamic compounds include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, for example sold under the trademark "Parsol MCX" by DSM; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxyl methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, for example sold under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Symrise; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.
[0066] Examples of camphor compounds include benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidenecamphor, for example sold under the trademark "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor, for example sold under the trademark "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidenecamphor sulfonic acid, for example sold under the trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Noveal; benzalkonium camphor methosulfate, for example sold under the trademark "Mexoryl SO" by Noveal; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, for example sold under the trademark "Mexoryl SX" by Noveal; and polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor, for example sold under the trademark "Mexoryl SW" by Noveal.
[0067] Suitable benzophenone compounds include benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF; benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, such as that marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethylbenzophenone acid) thoxybenzophonene sulfonic acid), such as that marketed under the brand name “Uvinul MS40” by BASF; benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone), such as that marketed under the brand name “Helisorb 11” by Norquay; benzophenone-8, such as that marketed under the brand name “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzo-phenonedisulfonate), such as that marketed under the brand name “Uvinul DS-49” by BASF; benzophenone-12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (such as that marketed under the brand name UVINUL A+ by BASF).
[0068] Examples of triazine compounds include Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, such as that marketed under the trademark "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as that marketed under the trademark "TINOSORB S" by BASF, and ethylhexyl triazone, such as that marketed under the trademark "UVINUL T150" by BASF.
[0069] Suitable benzotriazole compounds include phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear and those described in USP 5240975.
[0070] Suitable benzalmalonate compounds include dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, such as that marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche.
[0071] Examples of benzimidazole compounds include, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, such as that marketed in particular under the trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, such as that marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP" by Symrise.
[0072] Suitable imidazoline compounds include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
[0073] Examples of bis-benzoazolyl compounds include the compounds described in EP-669,323 and US Patent No. 2,463,264.
[0074] Suitable para-aminobenzoic acid compounds include PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, such as that marketed under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA and PEG-25 PABA, such as that marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
[0075] Suitable methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds include 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol], such as that marketed under the trademark “Mixxim BB / 200” by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol], such as that marketed in micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark “Tinosorb M” by BASF, or under the trademark “Mixxim BB / 100” by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in US Patent Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197 26 184 and EP-893 119, and drometrizole tri-siloxane, such as that marketed under the trademark “Silatrizole” by Rhodia Chimie or - “Mexoryl XL” by L'Oréal.
[0076] Examples of benzoxazole compounds include 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-I,3,5-triazine, such as that marketed under the brand name “Uvasorb K2A” by Sigma 3V.
[0077] Suitable examples of protective polymers and protective silicones include the silicones described in WO 93 / 04665.
[0078] Suitable α-alkylstyrene derived dimers include the dimers described in DE-19855649.
[0079] Examples of 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds include 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0080] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure further comprise at least one additional organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), ensulizole (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), homosalate, octocrylene, and mixtures thereof. In such embodiments, the UV absorbing system may "consist of" or "consist essentially of" (1) bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and (2) at least one organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), ensulizole (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), homosalate, octocrylene, and mixtures thereof.
[0081] According to other preferred embodiments, however, the compositions of the present disclosure are "free", "substantially free" or "devoid", as defined above of one or more additional organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), ensulizole (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), homosalate and octocrylene, preferably two or more, preferably three or more, preferably four or more, or preferably all five of these sunscreens.
[0082] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure are “free”, “substantially free” or “lacking”, as defined above. above, one or more additional organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of OXYBENZONE (benzophenone-3), OCTINOXATE (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE, METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYL PHENOL, DIE-THYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE, DIETHYLHEXYL BUTAMIDO TRIAZONE, ISOAMYL P-METHOXYCINNAMATE, POLY-SILICONE-15, 4-METHYLBENZYLIDENE CAMPHOR, PHENYL DIBENZL MIDAZOLE TETRASULFONATE DISODIUM, METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CY-CLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETATE, preferably two or more, of preferably three or more, preferably four or more, etc., and preferably “free”, “substantially free” or “devoid” of all such sunscreen agents.
[0083] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure are "free", "substantially free" or "lacking", as defined above, OXYBENZONE (benzophenone-3) and / or OCTINOXATE (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate).
[0084] Preferably, if present, the at least one additional organic UV filter is preferably present in the compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of at least about 1% by weight, preferably at least about 5% by weight, preferably at least about 10% by weight, preferably at least about 12.5% by weight, and preferably at least about 15% by weight, with the upper end of the range of additional UV filter present preferably being about 40% by weight (e.g., about 1 to 40%, about 10 to 40%, about 12.5 to 40%, etc.), preferably about 30% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 30%, about 10 to 30%, about 15 to 30%, etc.), preferably about 25% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 25%, about 10 to 25%, about 15 to 25%, etc.), and preferably about 20% by weight (e.g., about 1 to 20%, about 5 to 20%, about 10 to 20%, etc.), all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
[0085] According to preferred embodiments, the bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and the at least one additional organic UV filter, if any, are present in compositions of the present disclosure in a weight % ratio of preferably from about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably from about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably from about 3:1 to about 1:3, and preferably from about 2:1 to about 1:2, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, such as for example 5:1 to 2:1, 1:2 to 5:1, 8:1 to 1.5:1, 1:1.5 to 1:8, etc., all weights being based on the weight % of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and the weight % of additional organic UV filter present in the composition. Preferably, the compositions have a higher weight % of additional organic UV filter than bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine.
[0086] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise 10% or less by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the additional UV filters (including mineral UV filters), preferably less than 7.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0087] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise 10% or less by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the additional UV filters (including mineral UV filters), preferably less than 7.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088] According to preferred embodiments, the UV absorbing system of the compositions of the present disclosure may "consist of" or "consist essentially of" (1) bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and (2) optionally additional organic UV filters.
[0089] According to preferred embodiments, the present disclosure contemplates omitting one or more of the specific UV filters discussed above from the UV absorbing system of the compositions of the present disclosure. For example, octocrylene and / or octinoxate may be omitted from the compositions. A similar omission of one or more of the specific UV filters discussed is therefore contemplated. Semi-crystalline polymer
[0090] According to the present disclosure, compositions comprising at least one semi-crystalline polymer are provided. The term "Semi-crystalline Polymer", as used herein, refers to one or more polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, a pendant chain or block in the polymer structure (backbone), and an amorphous portion in the polymer structure (backbone), wherein the semi-crystalline polymer exhibits a first-order reversible phase temperature change, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition).
[0091] When the crystallizable part is a sequence of the polymer skeleton, said crystallizable sequence has a chemical nature different from that of the amorphous sequences; the semi-crystalline polymer is in this case preferably a block polymer, such as of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable sequence and at least one amorphous sequence. The term "sequence" means that it there are at least 5 identical repeating patterns. The crystallizable sequence(s) have a different chemical nature than the amorphous sequence(s).
[0092] Preferably, the at least one semi-crystalline polymer has an average molecular weight (Mn) greater than or equal to approximately 2,000 g / mol, preferably approximately 2,000 to 800,000 g / mol, preferably approximately 3,000 to 500,000 g / mol, preferably approximately 4,000 to 150,000 g / mol, and preferably approximately 4,000 to 99,000 g / mol.
[0093] In addition to the crystallizable chains or blocks, the at least one semi-crystalline polymer contains amorphous chains or blocks. The term "crystallizable chain or block," as used herein, refers to a chain or block that, if alone, would change from the amorphous state to the crystalline state reversibly, depending on whether the temperature is above or below the melting temperature.
[0094] The term "chain," as used herein, refers to a group of atoms, pendant or lateral to the backbone (skeleton) of the polymer. The term "sequence," as used herein, refers to a group of atoms that belong to the backbone (skeleton), and a group that constitutes one of the repeating units of the polymer.
[0095] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one semi-crystalline polymer contains a "crystallizable pendant chain" which comprises at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably at least 12 carbon atoms, and preferably at least 16 carbon atoms.
[0096] Preferably, the polymer backbone of the at least one semi-crystalline polymer is soluble in the oil phase of the compositions of the present disclosure and introduced into the oil phase during the preparation of the compositions of the present disclosure.
[0097] Preferably, the at least one semi-crystalline polymer comprises at least one alkyl acrylate chain. Preferably, the crystallizable blocks or chains of said semi-crystalline polymers containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain represent at least about 30% by weight and, preferably, at least about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the semi-crystalline polymer.
[0098] Preferably, the at least one semi-crystalline polymer with crystallizable sequences is a block or multi-block polymer. It can be obtained by polymerization of monomers with reactive (or ethylenic) double bonds or by polycondensation.
[0099] Preferably, when the at least one semi-crystalline polymer has one or more crystallizable side chain(s), said polymer(s) is (are) preferably in random or statistical form.
[0100] The at least one semi-crystalline polymer may be of synthetic origin. preferably, the polymer(s) do not contain a polysaccharide backbone.
[0101] the at least one semi-crystalline polymer may or may not be partially crosslinked. If it is crosslinked, it may involve chemical crosslinking, by reaction with a multifunctional monomer during polymerization. It may also involve physical crosslinking which may then be due either to the creation of hydrogen or dipolar type bonds between groups carried by the polymer, such as dipolar interactions between the carboxylate ionomers, these interactions being in small quantity and carried by the polymer backbone; or to a phase separation between the crystallizable sequences and the amorphous sequences, carried by the polymer. Preferably, the at least one semi-crystalline polymer is not crosslinked.
[0102] As indicated above, the compositions according to the present disclosure preferably comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain. Suitable semi-crystalline polymers include, in particular, those resulting from the polymerization of one or more saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers with a crystallizable side chain are homopolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylate, or copolymers of these monomers with a hydrophilic monomer.
[0103] According to preferred embodiments, the semi-crystalline polymer containing at least one alkyl acrylate chain comes from a monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably having a C16-C-22 chain, such as for example poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).
[0104] According to preferred embodiments, the semi-crystalline polymer which contains at least one alkyl acrylate chain is chosen from copolymers which result from the polymerization of at least one monomer with a crystallizable chain chosen from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably with a C16-C-22 chain.
[0105] According to preferred embodiments, the semi-crystalline polymer which contains at least one alkyl acrylate chain is chosen from homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates and from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer chosen from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably N-vinylpyrrolidone or a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.
[0106] Suitable examples of acceptable semi-crystalline polymers include, but are not limited to, homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, preferably having a chain C16-C-22, such as stearyl acrylates and behenyl acrylates. Specific examples include particular polymers that carry the INCI name Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, such as Intelimer® products from EVONIK, such as Intelimer® IPA 13-1, which is a polystearyl acrylate, or Intelimer® IPA 13-6, which is a behenyl polymer (polybehenyl acrylate), or Tego® SP products from EVONIK.
[0107] Other suitable examples include, for example, copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, with a hydrophilic monomer, preferably a hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, such as those described in applications US 2020 / 0281829 and US 2020 / 0330334, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Preferably, the copolymer is obtained by copolymerization of at least one monomer selected from alkyl acrylates, preferably from behenyl acrylates, stearyl acrylates and mixtures thereof, with a hydrophilic monomer such as hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate and N-vinylpyrrolidone and preferably hydroxyethyl acrylate.
[0108] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer which contains at least one alkyl acrylate chain is a behenyl / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, a stearyl / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer and / or one of their mixtures, and in particular the polymer which bears the INCI name: Poly Cl2-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer, marketed in particular under the name Tego SP Senstar by the company EVONIK.
[0109] According to preferred embodiments, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) which contain at least one alkyl acrylate chain is / are chosen from a polystearyl acrylate, a polybehenyl acrylate, a behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer, a stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof, in particular chosen from the polymer of the INCI name: Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, the copolymer of the INCI name C12-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer, and mixtures thereof, more particularly the polymer which bears the INCI name: Cl2-22 Alkyl Acrylate / Hydroxyethylacrylate Copolymer.
[0110] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one semi-crystalline polymer contains monomer units of formulas (A) and (B): [YES] [chem. 1]
[0112] in which:
[0113] RI, independently of each other, is chosen from alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the percentage by weight relative to the sum of all the RI groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units to the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1, and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight of the total weight of the polymer.
[0114] Preferably, RI consists of alkyl radicals, preferably C16-C22 alkyl radicals, and preferably stearyl radicals (Cl8) or behenyl radicals (C22).
[0115] Preferably, at least 70% by weight of the RI groups are stearyl or behenyl radicals, preferably at least 80% by weight, and preferably at least 90% by weight.
[0116] According to preferred embodiments, all RI groups are behenyl radicals.
[0117] According to preferred embodiments, all RI groups are stearyl radicals.
[0118] Preferably, the weight ratio of the sum of all the hydroxyethylacrylate units relative to the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the RI group ranges from 1:15 to 1:1 and preferably ranges from 1:10 to 1:4.
[0119] Preferably, the polymer units present in the polymer consist of the units (A) and (B) described above.
[0120] The polymer preferably has a number average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2,000 to 9,000 g / mol, preferably from 5,000 to 9,000 g / mol. The number average molecular weight can be measured by the gel permeation chromatography method, for example according to the method described below.
[0121] The sample is prepared by preparing a 10 mg / ml solution of the polymer in tetrahydrofuran. The sample is placed in an oven at 54°C for 10 minutes, then in a rocking shaker for 60 minutes to facilitate dissolution. After visual inspection, the sample appears to be completely dissolved in the solvent.
[0122] The prepared sample is analyzed using two 300x7.5 mm PolyPore columns manufactured by Agilent Technologies, a Waters 2695 chromatographic system, a tetrahydrofuran mobile phase, and refractive index detection. The sample is filtered through a 0.45 µm nylon filter, before being injected into the liquid chromatograph. The standards used for calibration are Easi Vial narrow polystyrene (PS) standards from Agilent Technologies. Polystyrene standards from 2,520,000 to 162 daltons can be used for calibration.
[0123] The system is equipped with a PSS SECcurity 1260 RI detector. The polystyrene calibration curve is used to determine the average molecular weight. Saving the diagrams and determining the different molecular weights can be done by the Win GPC Unichrom 81 program.
[0124] Preferably, the polymer has a melting point ranging from 40°C to 70°C, preferably from 45°C to 67°C. The melting point is measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), for example according to methods based on ASTM E791 and ASTM D 34182, and the DSC calibration is carried out in accordance with ASTM E 9672.
[0125] According to preferred embodiments, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the R 1 groups are stearyl radicals, then the polymer preferably has a melting point of 40°C to 60°C, preferably 45°C to 55°C.
[0126] According to preferred embodiments, when the polymer is such that at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are behenyl radicals, then the polymer has a melting point of 60°C to 70°C, preferably 63°C to 67°C.
[0127] The polymer of the present disclosure may be prepared by polymerizing a monomer having the formula below:
[0128] CH2=CH-COO-R1,
[0129] RI having the meaning described above, and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.
[0130] The polymerization can be carried out according to known methods, such as solution polymerization or emulsion polymerization.
[0131] The polymerization is, for example, described in document US 2007 / 0264204, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.
[0132] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one semi-crystalline polymer is present in the compositions of the present disclosure in an amount (active material) of 0.05 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably of 0.2 to 2% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Scleroglucan gums
[0133] According to the present disclosure, compositions comprising at least one gum of scleroglucan are proposed.
[0134] Scleroglucan gums are polysaccharides of microbial origin produced by a Sclerotium fungus, in particular Sclerotium rolfsii, consisting of glucose units.
[0135] Suitable scleroglucan gums may or may not be modified. Preferably, the scleroglucan gums useful in the compositions of the present disclosure are unmodified.
[0136] Suitable examples of commercial scleroglucan gum products include, but are not limited to, products sold under the name ACTIGUM CS, in particular ACTIGUM CS 11, by SANOFI BIO INDUSTRIES and under the name AMIGUM or AMIGEL by ALBAN MULLER INTERNATIONAL. Other scleroglucan gums, such as those treated with 0.5 to 10% glyoxal, as described in French patent application No. 2,633,940, may also be used.
[0137] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one scleroglucan gum is present in the compositions of the present disclosure in an amount (active ingredient) of 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably of 0.2 to 5% by weight, preferably of about 0.25% to about 3%, and preferably of about 0.33% to about 2% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0138] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one semi-crystalline polymer and the at least one scleroglucan gum are present in compositions of the present disclosure in a ratio in weight % (active ingredient) of about 10:1 to about 1:10, preferably about 8:1 to about 1:5, preferably about 5:1 to about 1:3, and preferably about 2:1 to about 1:2, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, such as 5:1 to 2:1, 4:1 to 1.5:1, 3.5:1 to 1:1, 1:1.5 to 1:8, etc., all weights being based on the weight % of semi-crystalline polymer(s) and the weight % of scleroglucan gum(s) present in the composition. Preferably, a higher wt% of semi-crystalline polymer(s) than scleroglucan gum(s) is present in the compositions. Dosage form
[0139] The compositions of the present disclosure may be in any form suitable for use as a personal care composition, such as a stick, a paste, a cream, an anhydrous composition, an emulsion (oil-in-water, water-in-oil, multiple emulsion such as oil-in-water-in-oil) including nanoemulsion, gel, liquid, solid, mousse, spray, etc. Preferably, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The term "Emulsion", as used herein, herein, means any macroscopically homogeneous kinetically stable composition that comprises at least two phases that are immiscible with each other; one being the continuous dispersion phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are generally kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system that may comprise at least one emulsifying surfactant (emulsifier or surfactant). A distinction may be made between oil-in-water emulsions, called "forward" emulsions, which contain a continuous aqueous dispersant phase and a discontinuous dispersed oil phase, and water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, called "reverse" emulsions, which contain a continuous oily dispersant phase and a discontinuous aqueous dispersed phase. There are also multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.
[0140] The composition according to the present disclosure may comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
[0141] Suitable examples of non-ionic W / O emulsifying surfactants include, but are not limited to, alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the Dow Corning company, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the Dow Corning company; cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 ® by the company Goldschmidt.One or more coemulsifier(s) may also be added, which may advantageously be selected from the group comprising alkylated polyol esters. Specific examples include, but are not limited to, specific polyol alkyl esters such as polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by ICI; specific glycerol and / or sorbitan esters such as polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
[0142] Suitable examples of non-ionic O / W emulsifying surfactants include, without however, be limited to polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol such as the ester of polyethylene glycol and stearic acid which bears the INCI name PEG-100 STEARATE marketed under the name Myrj SIOO-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA; oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid esters possibly in association with a fatty acid ester of glycerol such as the PEG-100 stearate / glyceryl stearate mixture marketed for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APG) such as C12-C20 alkyl glucosides, such as that marketed by the company Seppic under the name Montanov L,decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside marketed for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name Montanov 68® by Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside, marketed under the name Montanov 202® by Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO-A-92 / 06778.
[0143] Suitable examples of anionic O / W emulsifying surfactants include, in particular, amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, hydrocarbon chain, and their salts, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of their salts (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name). These compounds are sold under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or even under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.Other examples of anionic O / W emulsifying surfactants include, but are not limited to, hydrophobic modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified with hydrophobic chains such as alkylcarbamate groups, in particular C8-C18 alkyl carbamate, and more particularly laurylcarbamate, the product marketed under the name INUTEC SL1 by the company CREACHEM being an example of a commercial product thereof. Nonionic alkylpolyglycoside surfactants
[0144] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise one or more nonionic surfactants of the alkylpolyglycoside type. Suitable nonionic surfactants of the alkylpolyglycoside type which may be used according to the present disclosure may be selected from compounds of the following general formula:
[0145] RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:
[0146] - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
[0147] - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
[0148] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms;
[0149] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4;
[0150] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4.
[0151] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type are compounds of the formula described above, in which:
[0152] - RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms
[0153] - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,
[0154] -1 denotes a number ranging from 0 to 3, and preferably equal to 0,
[0155] - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;
[0156] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2, preferably between 1.1 and 1.5 on average.
[0157] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.
[0158] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside is an alkyl(poly)glucoside.
[0159] Preferably, the nonionic surfactants are selected from (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, such as coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.
[0160] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, alone or as a mixture, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly)glycosides.
[0161] Among the suitable commercial products, we can cite the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; products sold by BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, products sold by CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK, products sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB, products sold by SEPPIC under the trade names Montanov® L, Montanov® 68, Montanov® 68 MB, Montanov® 14 or Montanov® 202, or products sold by BASF under the name Emulgade® PL 68 / 50.
[0162] Preferably, where appropriate, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) of alkylpolyglycoside type is from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight, and preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0163] Polyol fatty acid ester and anionic carboxylic surfactant or carboxylate
[0164] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise:
[0165] - at least one ester of C12-C24 fatty acid and C2-C24 polyol, preferably at least one ester of C16-C18 fatty acid and glycerol; and / or
[0166] - at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C8-C30, preferably C8-C24, hydrocarbon chain, and their salts.
[0167] According to preferred embodiments, the C12-C24 fatty acid for the at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol may be a saturated or unsaturated acid such as, for example, stearic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, etc.
[0168] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polyol” designates any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
[0169] According to preferred embodiments, the polyol for the at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol may be a saturated or unsaturated alkyl compound of linear, branched or cyclic structure, bearing on the alkyl at least two OH functions, preferably at least three OH functions. Preferably, the polyol for the at least one C[2-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol preferably has 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0170] Preferably, the polyol may be selected, for example, from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyglycerin-3, glycerol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is selected from 1,3-propanediol, polyglycerin-3, glycerol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is glycerol.
[0171] Examples of C12-C24 fatty acid esters of glycerol include laurate glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and mixtures thereof. Commercially available products include glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name Tegin MO by Evonik Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate, such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 3120 by Hiils, and monoglyceride stearates (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate), such as those sold under the name Dimodan HP by Danisco, or those sold under the name Tegin 90 by Evonik Goldschmidt.
[0172] Preferably, the C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol is glyceryl stearate.
[0173] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol is present in the compositions of the present disclosure in an amount (active material) of 0.1% to 2% by weight, and preferably of 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, all weights extending relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0174] According to the present disclosure, a carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a C8-C24 hydrocarbon-based chain and salts thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" refers to a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated organic group consisting mainly of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms, in which one or more carbon atoms may be replaced by an oxygen atom or a nitrogen atom. Examples of C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chains include C8-C30 acyl radicals.
[0175] Examples of amino acids include, but are not limited to, alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, and sarcosine.
[0176] The following compounds may be mentioned more specifically: dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, [3-methyl cocoyl alaninate, [3-lauroyl alaninate, [3-lauroyl methyl alaninate, [3-myristoyl alaninate, lauroyl methyl [3-potassium alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate,sodium cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate] and myristoyl methyl [3-alaninate] palmitoyl, glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de sodium, cocoyl glycinate de sodium, myristoyl glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de potassium, cocoyl glycinate de potassium, lauroyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate de sodium, myristoyl sarcosinate de sodium, oléoyl sarcosinate de sodium, palmitoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate d'ammonium, lauroyl aspartate de sodium, myristoyl aspartate de sodium, cocoyl aspartate de sodium, caproyl aspartate de sodium, lauroyl aspartate disodique, myristoyl aspartate disodique, cocoyl aspartate disodique, caproyl aspartate disodique, lauroyl aspartate de potassium, myristoyl aspartate de potassium, cocoyl aspartate de potassium, caproyl aspartate de potassium, lauroyl aspartate dipotassique, myristoyl aspartate dipotassique, cocoyl aspartate dipotassique, caproyl aspartate dipotassique, et leurs mélanges.
[0177] According to preferred embodiments, the anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from compounds having the following structure (III):
[0178] [chem. 2] O JCHJn ^COOM Z ' XY
[0179] in which:
[0180] in which:
[0181] Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
[0182] X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
[0183] n is equal to 0 or 1;
[0184] Y is a group selected from a hydrogen atom and a group -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3 , -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH and -(CH2)2 C(O)O M+ ; and
[0185] M is a hydrogen atom or a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.
[0186] According to preferred embodiments, in formula 2:
[0187] Z represents a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group;
[0188] X is a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
[0189] is equal to O;
[0190] Y is a hydrogen atom, a -(CH2)2C(O)OH group or a -(CH2)2C(O)O-M+ group; and
[0191] M is a cation such as sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.
[0192] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises at least one acylated glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates). Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid(s) is(are) chosen from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, lauroyl glutamic acid, myristoyl glutamic acid, palmitoyl glutamic acid, stearoyl glutamic acid, behenoyl glutamic acid, olivoyl glutamic acid, cocoyl glutamic acid, and the salts of these acids, in particular the salts of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the salts of alkaline earth metals such as Mg, or the ammonium salts of said acids.
[0193] Examples of salts of amino acids modified with at least one C8-C3o hydrocarbon-based chain include, but are not limited to, glutamate salts, and in particular dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, myristoyl sodium glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate.
[0194] Preferably, the acylglutamic acid(s) or one of their salts is (are) chosen from lauroylglutamic acids, cocoylglutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the acyl glutamic acid or one of its salts is sodium stearoyl glutamate. These compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.
[0195] Mention may also be made of triethanolamine cocoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft CT12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12 by Ajinomoto.
[0196] As acylglutamic acid salts, mention may also be made of sodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS 11 by Ajinomoto and disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate, such as the product sold under the reference Acylglutamate HS-21 by Ajinomoto.
[0197] Mention may also be made of commercial mixtures of surfactants comprising at least one glutamic acid derivative or a salt of said derivative, for example the mixture of acyl glutamate salts such as Amisoft LS-22 sold by Ajinomoto.
[0198] According to preferred embodiments of the present disclosure, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise the monosodium salt of n-stearoyl-L-glutamic acid (INCI name: sodium stearoyl glutamate), such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the reference Amisoft HS 11 PF.
[0199] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one amino acid modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain, and / or its salts, is preferably present in the compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 2% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 1% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 0.8% by weight, and preferably 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, all weights being relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Saturated fatty alcohols C12-C24
[0200] According to preferred embodiments, compositions optionally further comprising at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol are provided. Preferably, the at least one C12-C24 saturated fatty alcohol is linear and / or comprises from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Suitable examples include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol, with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and / or cetearyl alcohol being most preferred.
[0201] Commercially available cetyl alcohol includes, but is not limited to, those sold under the names Ecorol® 16 / 98 F and Ecorol® 16 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleo-chemicals, Tegoalkanol® 16 by Evonik Goldschmidt, Lanette® 16 by Cognis, Vegarol® 1698 by WF, Alkonat® 1698 P by Oxiteno, Cetyl Alcohol 98% MIN by Emery Oleochemicals, Ginol® 16 (98%) by Godrej Industries, Nacol® 16-98 by Sasol, Kalcol® 6098 by Kao and Acilol ® 16 by Aegis Chemical.
[0202] Commercially available stearyl alcohol includes, but is not limited to, those sold under the names Tegoalkanol® 18 by Evonik Goldschmidt, Ecorol® 18 / 98 F and Ecorol® 18 / 98 P by Ecogreen Oleochemicals, Lanette® 18 by Cognis, Kalcol® 8098 by Kao, Acilol® 18 by Aegis Chemical, Nacol® 18-98 by Sasol and NAA® 45 by Nihon Yushi.
[0203] Commercially available cetearyl alcohol includes, but is not limited to, those sold under the names Ecorol® 68 / 50 F and Ecorol® 68 / 50 P by Ecogreen Oleo-chemicals, Lanette® O OR and Lanette® O OR Flakes by Cognis, Alkonat® 1618 C50 P by Oxiteno, Nafol® 16-18 EN by Sasol, Alcohol Cetoestearilico 50 / 50 by Industria Quimica Del Centro, Conol® 30 CK by New Japan Chemical, Cetylstearyl Alcohol 50:50 by Evonik Goldschmidt, Kalcol® 6850 by Kao, Vegarol® 1618 (50:50) by WF and Ginol® 1618 50:50 OU by Godrej Industries.
[0204] Commercially available behenyl alcohol includes, but is not limited to, those sold under the name Lanette 22 by BASF.
[0205] Preferably, the compositions of the present disclosure have an alpha-gel structure, i.e., they have a lamella phase, believed to be due to the presence of a surfactant and a saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol.
[0206] Optionally, the at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol is preferably present in the compositions of the present disclosure in an amount of from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, and preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. Waxes
[0207] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure optionally further comprise at least one wax. The term "wax" refers to a deformable or non-deformable lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25 C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which can be up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes suitable for use in the compositions described preferably have a melting point greater than or equal to 60°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C.
[0208] The expression “lipophilic compound” designates a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.
[0209] The melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments or the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q100 by TA Instruments with the TA universal analysis software.
[0210] A measurement protocol is as follows:
[0211] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature ramp going from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature ramp going from - 20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature ramp, the variation in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve which represents the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.
[0212] The waxes may be hydrocarbon waxes, silicone waxes and / or fluoro waxes, and may be of vegetable, animal, mineral and / or synthetic origin.
[0213] Preferably, where appropriate, the wax(es) is(are) present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0214] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises at least one wax of plant origin.
[0215] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises at least one jojoba ester wax. The jojoba ester wax may be an unsaturated form of jojoba esters, which may be the fully hydrogenated jojoba ester having the formula below:
[0216] [chem. 3] ^-COO-CHs-R1
[0217] in which:
[0218] RI is a CH3-(CH2)y group, y is equal to 16, 18, 20 or 22.
[0219] Jojoba ester wax can be obtained by hydrogenation of jojoba wax ester jojoba (jojoba oil) having the following formula:
[0220] [chem. 4] Oh w, - CB œ - - Oà; ~ C * O * CB* ((¾ * Œ,
[0221] in which x and y are equal to 6, 8, 10 or 12.
[0222] Jojoba wax esters are composed of straight-chain monounsaturated fatty alcohols and monounsaturated fatty acids. The only double bond is located in the middle (n-9 position), starting from the final methyl group (-CH3) of the respective fatty acid or alcohol chain.
[0223] Said wax esters are composed of fatty alcohols and fatty esters having an even number of carbon atoms, primarily 20 and 22 carbon atoms. The resulting material comprises esters having chain lengths of 38, 40, 42 and 44 carbon atoms, with a small amount of esters of 36 and 46 carbon atoms present. The Typical composition of wax esters is shown below.
[0224] [Tables 1] Wax Esters (X, Y) Typical % Chain Length (Area per GPC) (6, 6) 36 1 (6, 8) (8, 6) 38 8 (6, 10) (8, 8) (10, 6) 40 39 (10, 8) (8, 10) 42 38 (10, 10) 44 13 (12, 10) (10, 12) 46 1
[0225] Jojoba wax ester may be derived from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis).
[0226] Examples of jojoba wax esters include the product sold under the name Floraesters® 70 by International Flora Technologies Ltd, and the product sold under the name Jojoba Esters-70 by Vantage.
[0227] Preferably, where appropriate, the jojoba ester wax is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0228] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises at least one additional hydrocarbon-based wax in addition to the jojoba ester cited above. Suitable examples include, but are not limited to, beeswax, lanolin or Chinese insect wax, rice wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, esparto wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, Berry wax, shellac and sumac wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, Montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as esters thereof.Examples include beeswax, for example the product sold under the name White beeswax BR G889 by Koster Keunen, camauba wax, for example sold under the name Cerauba Tl Bio by Baerlocher, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax sold under the name Sunflower Wax by Koster Keunen, or a mixture thereof. Preferably, the compositions of the present disclosure comprise Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.
[0229] Where appropriate, the additional hydrocarbon-based wax is preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0230] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises a mixture of glyceryl stearate, sodium steroyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol, jojoba esters and sunflower seed wax, having the INCI name Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera (and) Polyglycerin-3, sold under the name Emulium® Dolcea MB by Gattefosse.
[0231] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises:
[0232] - bemotrizinol;
[0233] - at least one semi-crystalline polymer as defined previously;
[0234] - at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol;
[0235] - at least one C12-C24 glycerol fatty acid ester;
[0236] - at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from modified amino acids with at least one C8-C24 hydrocarbon-based chain, and their salts; and
[0237] - at least one wax.
[0238] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises:
[0239] - bemotrizinol;
[0240] - at least one semi-crystalline polymer as defined previously;
[0241] - at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol;
[0242] - at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol;
[0243] - at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from modified amino acids with at least one C8-C24 hydrocarbon-based chain, and their salts; and
[0244] - at least one jojoba ester wax.
[0245] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises:
[0246] - bemotrizinol;
[0247] - at least one semi-crystalline polymer as defined previously;
[0248] - at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol;
[0249] - at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol;
[0250] - at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or a salt thereof salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being a C10-C3O acyl group, preferably in C12-C22; and
[0251] - at least one jojoba ester wax.
[0252] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises:
[0253] - bemotrizinol;
[0254] - at least one semi-crystalline polymer as defined previously;
[0255] - at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol;
[0256] - at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol;
[0257] - at least one carboxylic or carboxylate anionic surfactant chosen from modified amino acids with at least one C8-C24 hydrocarbon-based chain, and their salts;
[0258] - at least one jojoba ester wax; and
[0259] - at least one Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.
[0260] According to preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present disclosure comprises:
[0261] - bemotrizinol;
[0262] - at least one semi-crystalline polymer as defined previously;
[0263] - at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol;
[0264] - at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol;
[0265] - at least one acyl glutamic acid (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of its salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being a C10-C30, preferably C12-C22 acyl group;
[0266] - at least one jojoba ester wax; and
[0267] - at least one Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax.
[0268] According to preferred embodiments, the composition in accordance with the present disclosure is a fluid composition for skin care, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0269] (i) bemotrizinol;
[0270] (ii) 0.05% to 10% by weight of a semi-crystalline polymer comprising monomer units of formulae (A) and (B):
[0271] [chem. 1]
[0272] in which:
[0273] RI, independently at each instance, is selected from alkyl or alkenyl radicals, and
[0274] at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals chosen from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage being related to the sum of all the RI groups present in the polymer, and
[0275] the weight ratio between the sum of all the hydroxyethyl acrylate units and the sum of all the acrylate units carrying the RI group ranges from 1:30 to 1:1, and
[0276] the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer;
[0277] (iii) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one jojoba ester wax of formula 3:
[0278] [chem. 3] ^-œO-CHa-R1
[0279] where RI is CH3-(CH2)y-, y is equal to 16, 18, 20 or 22;
[0280] (iv) from 0.5% by weight to 2% by weight of at least one saturated C12-C24 fatty alcohol chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol;
[0281] (v) from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of glycerol selected from glyceryl laurate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl palmitate and a mixture thereof; and
[0282] (vi) from 0.1% by weight to 0.5% by weight of at least one surfactant chosen from acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) and their salts (acyl glutamates), the acyl group being a C10-C30 acyl group, preferably a C12-C22 acyl group; even more preferably, it is the stearoyl radical. Oil
[0283] According to preferred embodiments of the present disclosure, compositions further comprising at least one oil are provided. "Oil" refers to a substance that is hydrophobic and lipophilic, and is a liquid at about room temperature (20-25°C) and about atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0284] Suitable oils include volatile and / or non-volatile oils. Such oils may be any acceptable oil, including, but not limited to, silicone oils and / or hydrocarbon oils.
[0285] According to certain embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure preferably comprise one or more volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. The oils Specific volatile oils that may be used in the disclosure include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that may be used include KF 96A, with a viscosity of 6 cSt, a commercial product from Shin Etsu that has a flash point of 94 C. Preferably, the volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40 C.
[0286] Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils are listed in Table 2 below.
[0287] [Tables2] Compound Flash point (°C) Viscosity (cSt) Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) 55 2.5 Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 93 7 (cyclotetramethylsiloxane or D4) 63 1.7 Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 94 6 Decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) 56 1.5 Shin Etsu KF-96 A PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 (1.5 cSt) Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (2 cSt) Dow Corning 87 2
[0288] Further, a volatile linear silicone oil may be employed in the present disclosure. Suitable volatile linear silicone oils include those described in U.S. Patent No. 6,338,839 and WO03 / 042221, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment, the volatile linear silicone oil is decamethyltetrasiloxane. In another embodiment, the decamethyltetrasiloxane is further combined with another solvent that is more volatile than the decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0289] According to certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the composition preferably comprises one or more volatile non-silicone oils and may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters, and volatile ethers. Examples of such volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular, branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, and for example, oils marketed under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the volatile non-silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.
[0290] Non-limiting examples of volatile non-silicone oils are given in Table 3 below.
[0291] [Tables3] Compound Flash point (°C) Isododecane 43 Propylene glycol n-butyl ether 60 Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate 58 Propylene glycol methyl ether acetate 46 Isopar L (Cn-Ci3 isoparaffin) 62 Isopar H (Cn-Ci2 isoparaffin) 56
[0292] According to certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, polar oils such as, for example:
[0293] - esters and ethers, in particular fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2, in which RI represents the residue of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diiso-nonanoate;triglycerides such as caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaiso-nonanoate; ;
[0294] - ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0295] - liquid C8 to C26 fatty alcohols, for example oleyl alcohol, alcohol cetyl, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol;
[0296] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
[0297] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides fatty acids having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, ara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, coco-caprylate / caprate (esterified oil of coconut oil), jojoba oil, shea butter oil; and
[0298] - mixtures thereof.
[0299] Further, examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in the present disclosure include, but are not limited to, non-polar oils such as branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, particularly Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene, and mixtures thereof.
[0300] According to certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the compositions of the present disclosure may comprise at least one non-volatile silicone oil. Suitable examples of such silicone oils include, but are not limited to, non-volatile silicone fluids such as, for example, polyalkyl (aryl) siloxanes. Suitable polyalkyl siloxanes include, but are not limited to, polydimethyl siloxanes, which have the CTFA designation dimethicone, polydiethyl siloxane, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethyl-siloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone and diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and the siloxanes disclosed in U.S. Patent Application Publication No. 2004 / 0126350, the full disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.Specific examples of suitable high viscosity silicone oils include, but are not limited to, Wacker's 15 M 30 PCR (500 cSt) or Belsil PDM 1000 (1000 cSt) and Dow Corning 200 (350 cSt) (values in parentheses are viscosities at 25°C).
[0301] Particularly preferred oils include, but are not limited to, one or more of the following: diisopropyl sebacate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, phenethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylate / dicaprate, coco glycerides, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, coco caprylate / caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl dodecanol, isohexadecane, isododecane, dicaprylyl ether, C15-19 alkane, and mixtures thereof.
[0302] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one oil is present in the compositions of the present disclosure in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 50% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 40% by weight, and most preferably from about 10% to about 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 15% to 40%, 20% to 45%, etc. Aqueous phase
[0303] According to the present disclosure, compositions comprising an aqueous phase comprising water are provided. Preferably, when the compositions of the present disclosure contain water, they are in the form of an emulsion containing an external aqueous phase, such as an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsion. Preferably, when in the form of an emulsion, the oil phase contains primarily silicone oils (Si / W or W / Si emulsion) or hydrocarbon oils. Where present, water is preferably present in an amount of from about 10% to about 80% by weight, preferably from about 20% to about 70% by weight, preferably from about 35% to about 65% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
[0304] The aqueous phase may optionally further comprise at least one water-soluble organic solvent that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. For example, such at least one water-soluble organic solvent may include:
[0305] triethyl citrate;
[0306] C1-C5 monoalcohols having a C1-C5 alkane chain and a single hydroxyl (OH) function. Suitable C1-C5 monoalcohols include methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol and mixtures thereof;
[0307] polyols (compounds having 2 or more hydroxyl groups) having, for example, from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as, for example, glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, simple sugars and water-soluble polyalkylene glycols;
[0308] and mixtures thereof.
[0309] According to preferred embodiments, the at least one water-soluble organic solvent is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0310] Optionally, the water-soluble organic solvent(s) is / are preferably present in the compositions of the present disclosure in an amount ranging from about 0.5 to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 3 to about 30% by weight, and preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight, based on the weight total composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 2% to 15%, 2% to 25%, 7.5% to 30%, etc. (Additional optional components)
[0311] The compositions of the present disclosure may also optionally further include at least one additive or auxiliary commonly used in cosmetic compositions and known to those skilled in the art as being capable of being incorporated into such compositions. Said additives or auxiliaries may be selected from additional film formers, additional surfactants, coloring agents (such as dyes and pigments), waxes, thixotropic agents (such as clays), fillers, preservatives, fragrances, antioxidants, free radical scavengers, spreading agents, dispersing agents, antifoaming agents, neutralizing agents, stabilizing agents, active ingredients selected from essential oils, moisturizing agents, vitamins, actives, proteins, ceramides, plant extracts, fibers and the like, wetting agents and mixtures thereof.However, preferably, the compositions of the present disclosure are "free", "substantially free" or "devoid" of such additives.
[0312] A person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional additives and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the disclosure are not, or not substantially, compromised by the intended addition.
[0313] It goes without saying that the composition of the disclosure must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e. it must contain a physiologically acceptable non-toxic carrier. The composition may be in any dosage form normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields which is suitable for topical administration, as discussed above.
[0314] These auxiliary additives may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0% to 99% (such as 0.01% to 90%) based on the total weight of the composition and further such as 0.1% to 50% by weight (where applicable), including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0315] In accordance with the present disclosure, the compositions of the present disclosure may be a stand-alone product (for use alone), or they may be a product for use in conjunction with another composition, for example, it may be a base coat composition (makeup base), a color coat composition, or a top coat composition (overcoat). It is to be understood that when compositions of the present disclosure are applied to keratinous materials in the form of any of such compositions, such application may comprise one or more layers of the product. Thus, for example, the application of at least one color coat composition may comprise one or more color coats; the application of the at least one topcoat composition may comprise one or more topcoats; and the application of the at least one basecoat composition may comprise one or more basecoats. Preferably, such basecoat, colorcoat, and topcoat compositions contain three or fewer layers of compositions, preferably two or fewer layers of compositions, and preferably only one layer of compositions.
[0316] During application of the compositions of the present disclosure, the base coat (if any) is typically applied directly over a keratinous material, the color coat is typically applied either directly over the keratinous material (if no base coat is present) or over a previously applied base coat, and the top coat (if any) is typically applied over a color coat.
[0317] According to preferred embodiments of the present disclosure, methods of treating, protecting, improving the appearance, caring for and / or making up keratinous material by applying compositions of the present disclosure to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat the keratinous material, improve its appearance, care for it and / or make it up, are provided.
[0318] Preferably, the "making up" of the keratinous material includes the application of a composition comprising at least one coloring agent to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to provide color and / or an optical effect to the keratinous material.
[0319] Preferably, "protecting" the keratinous material includes applying a composition of the present disclosure to protect the keratinous material from damage resulting from exposure to UV rays.
[0320] In accordance with the preceding embodiments, the compositions of the present disclosure are applied topically to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, improve the appearance of, care for, and / or make up the keratinous material. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily, and then preferably allowed to dry before subjecting them to contact such as with clothing or other objects (e.g., clothing or a protective finish). Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 1 minute or less, preferably for about 45 seconds or less.
[0321] According to preferred embodiments of the present disclosure, methods of making compositions comprising the combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, at least one semi-crystalline polymer, at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol, and at least one anionic surfactant carboxylic or carboxylate selected from the group consisting of amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts, during the formation of the compositions, are provided.
[0322] The present disclosure also contemplates kits and / or pre-packaged materials suitable for consumer use containing one or more compositions according to the present disclosure, alone or in combination with other consumer care products such as makeup products such as base coats, top coats, makeup remover compositions, etc. The packaging and application device for any subject of the disclosure may be selected and manufactured by persons skilled in the art on the basis of their general knowledge, and adapted according to the nature of the composition to be packaged. Indeed, the type of device to be used may be in particular linked to the consistency of the composition, in particular to its viscosity; it may also depend on the nature of the constituents present in the composition, such as the presence of volatile compounds.
[0323] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the patent specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical parameters presented in the following patent specification and appended claims are approximations which may vary depending on the desired properties sought to be achieved by the present disclosure.
[0324] Although the numerical ranges and parameters defining the general scope of the disclosure are approximations, the numerical values indicated in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the disclosure without, however, limiting its scope. Percentages are given on a weight basis.
[0325] Example 1 — Fresh Liquid Serum SPF 50 US Tinosorb S Ingredient Concentration % WATER / AQUA QS CHELATING AGENT 0.3 PRESERVATIVE 1 POLYOL 10 WAXES / FATTY ALCOHOL / SURFACTANT 2.5 STARCH 0.5 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.5 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3 HOMOSALATE / OCTISALATE 14 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 5 C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE / 1,5 HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER C15-19 ALKANE 5 ACTIVE AGENT 1
[0327] Exemple 2 — Sérum liquide frais SPF 50 US Tinosorb S (avec booster) INCI (US / UE) Concentration % WATER / AQUA QS CHELATING AGENT 0,3 PRESERVATIVE 1 POLYOL 10 WAXES / FATTY ALCOHOL / SURFACTANT 2,5 STARCH 0,5 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0,5 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE 3 HOMOSALATE / OCTISALATE 14 ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCRYLENE 2 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 5 C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE / HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER 1,5 C15-19 ALKANE 5 ACTIVE AGENT 1
Claims
Claims
1. A composition comprising bemotrizinol, at least one semi-crystalline polymer comprising at least one alkyl acrylate chain and at least one scleroglucan gum.
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the at least one semi-crystalline polymer comprising at least one alkyl acrylate chain is selected from the group consisting of homopolymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, copolymers obtained by copolymerization of a monomer selected from alkyl acrylates and alkyl methacrylates, with a hydrophilic monomer, and mixtures thereof.
3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the at least one semi-crystalline polymer comprising at least one alkyl acrylate chain is selected from the group consisting of polystearyl acrylate, polybehenyl acrylate, behenyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, stearyl acrylate / 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one semi-crystalline polymer comprises monomer units of formulae (A) and (B): 5 j S} 5 -.-• -'"'s ' 1 | 0'^0 1 1 LIR OH | in which: RI, independently at each instance, is selected from alkyl and alkenyl radicals, all RI groups preferably being stearyl and / or behenyl radicals, and at least 60% by weight of the RI groups are radicals selected from stearyl and behenyl radicals, the weight percentage being related to the sum of all RI groups present in the polymer, and the weight ratio between the sum of all acrylate units. of hydroxyethyl and the sum of all acrylate units bearing the RI group is from 1:30 to 1:1; and the sum of the total of units A and B is at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer, the polymer having a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 2000 to 9000 g / mol.
5. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition has one or more of the following properties: a critical wavelength of at least 370 nm; an FPUVA / SPF ratio of at least 1 / 3; and a UVA1 / UV ratio of 0.7 or more.
6. A composition according to any preceding claim, further comprising at least one active agent and / or at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of at least one C12-C24 fatty acid ester of a C2-C24 polyol, at least one anionic carboxylic or carboxylate surfactant selected from the group consisting of amino acids modified with at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain and their salts, and mixtures thereof.
7. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition also has an SPF value of at least 30.
8. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the pH is greater than or equal to 6.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is free of mineral UV filters, preferably free of oxybenzone and / or octinoxate.
10. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition comprises 10% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the composition of additional organic UV filters.