Composition comprising at least one wax, a bio-sourced isododecane, a liquid polyester, a lipophilic film-forming polymer, a lipophilic gelling agent and a particulate colorant

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one wax, a bio-sourced isododecane, a liquid polyester, a lipophilic film-forming polymer, a lipophilic gelling agent and a particulate colorant The present invention relates to a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one oily phase comprising at least one bio-sourced isododecane; and b) at least one wax; etc) at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol; and d) at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer; and e) at least one lipophilic gelling agent;andf) at least one particulate coloring matter The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined above.;

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising at least one wax, a bio-sourced isododecane, a liquid polyester, a lipophilic film-forming polymer, a lipophilic gelling agent and a particulate colorant Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to makeup of eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0002] The subject of the present invention is compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, comprising at least one oil and at least one polyester.

[0003] The present invention also relates to the use of these compositions for coating keratin fibers, and in particular eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0004] In particular, the compositions according to the invention are makeup compositions, and optionally eyelash care compositions. The present invention also relates to a method for coating keratin fibers, in particular a makeup method, and optionally eyelash care compositions.

[0005] Cosmetic compositions intended for eyelash makeup, such as mascaras, are in particular prepared according to two types of formulation: on the one hand, aqueous mascaras known as "cream mascaras", in the form of a dispersion of waxes in water; and, on the other hand, anhydrous mascaras or those with a low water content, known as "waterproof mascaras", in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.

[0006] The application of mascara aims in particular to increase the volume of the eyelashes and consequently increase the intensity of the look. For this, there are many thickening or volumizing mascaras whose principle consists of depositing the maximum amount of material on the eyelashes in order to obtain this volumizing (or loading) effect.

[0007] However, waterproof mascaras have the disadvantage of not providing as much volume as water-based mascaras.

[0008] To date, to increase the volumizing result of waterproof mascaras, waxes, fillers and / or pigments are added to them in order to increase the dry matter content. However, on the other hand, this high dry matter content has the disadvantage of reducing the product's grip (playtime) or hold. Such mascaras then have a texture that quickly becomes dry and difficult to work with after several passes over the eyelashes.

[0009] To overcome this drawback, in patents FR293167 IB 1 and FR2931670B1 as well as patent application EP3242725, mascaras have been proposed comprising at least one fatty phase, at least one wax, and at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol. Some compositions based on volatile hydrocarbon oil such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) in particular isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane) tend to produce an overly shiny appearance on the mascara application brush.

[0010] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to access mascara compositions whose properties of the deposit of the product on the applicator are improved, in particular a more matte appearance and the obtaining of a more flexible brush thanks to the invention.

[0011] The inventors, during their research, unexpectedly discovered that the objectives as defined above were achieved by using a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one oily phase comprising at least one biosourced isododecane; and b) at least one wax; and c) at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol; and d) at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer; and e) at least one lipophilic gelling agent; and (f) at least one particulate coloring matter

[0012] Unexpectedly, the inventors have in fact found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to make the bristles of the application brush more flexible and to obtain a less shiny deposit on said brush.

[0013] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0014] Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) an oily phase comprising at least one biosourced isododecane; and b) at least one wax; and c) at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol; and d) at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer; and e) at least one lipophilic gelling agent; and (f) at least one particulate coloring matter

[0015] A second subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for human keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the eye contour, the eyelash contour, the eyebrow contour; keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and eyebrows, consisting of applying to said keratin materials a composition as defined above. Definitions

[0016] In the context of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is understood to mean in particular the skin, in particular the skin surrounding the eyelashes, the skin surrounding the eyebrows; keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and eyebrows. This term keratin fibers, within the meaning of the present invention, also extends to synthetic false eyelashes.

[0017] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0018] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process, in particular a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin surrounding the eyelashes, the skin surrounding the eyebrows, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to said keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or eyebrows.

[0019] For the purposes of the invention, the term "bio-sourced product" or of natural origin means a chemical product obtained from raw materials of natural origin, in particular renewable raw materials from biomass. It can be obtained by biological means.

[0020] By "particulate matter" is meant any compound in the form of insoluble and dispersible particles in the composition of the invention. Oily phase

[0021] The composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase comprising at least one biosourced isododecane.

[0022] Such an oily phase is an organic phase which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) and is non-aqueous and immiscible with water. Bio-sourced isododenane

[0023] Biosourced or naturally occurring isododecane can be distinguished from petroleum (fossil) isododecane by its significantly higher carbon 14 content compared to that of petroleum-based isododecane, which may be zero. Naturally occurring isododecane results from the conversion of organic matter,

[0024] The carbon-14 content of isododecane can be assessed by determining its modern carbon percentage.

[0025] Modern carbon is the contemporary carbon present today in the atmosphere and in biomass. The measurement of radiocarbon is expressed as a part of modern carbon (pMC). The percentage of bio-based carbon is calculated based on pMC, total carbon content, and an atmospheric adjustment factor (REF). The reference value used for carbon year adjustment was 100 in 2020 (ASTM D6866-20). This means that a 100% natural product manufactured in 2020 has a pMC of 100.

[0026] The percentage of modern carbon corresponds to the percentage of "natural" carbon (from biomass) compared to "fossil" carbon (from petrochemicals). A compound with a modern carbon content equal to 100% is made from 100% plants and / or animal by-products. A modern carbon content equal to 0% is associated with a product of entirely fossil origin, which does not contain any carbon from plant and / or animal by-products.

[0027] A pMC value greater than 0% and less than 100% confirms a mixture of bio-sourced and fossil carbon, indicating the percentage of bio-sourced carbon in the total carbon.

[0028] Preferably, the isododecane present in the composition according to the invention has a percentage of modern carbon (pMC), determined according to standard ASTM D6866-20 method B, greater than or equal to 50%, preferably greater than or equal to 60%, more preferably greater than or equal to 70%, advantageously greater than or equal to 80%, typically greater than or equal to 90%.

[0029] According to a preferred embodiment, 100% of the biosourced isododecane used in the composition according to the invention has a percentage of modern carbon (pMC), determined according to standard ASTM D6866-20 method B, equal to 100%.

[0030] According to a particular form, the biosourced isododecane according to the invention may have a 2,2,4,6,6-pentamethylheptane content greater than 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the isodecane. More particularly, the biosourced isododecane used according to the invention may have a 2,2,4,6,6-pentamethylheptane content greater than or equal to 90% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 95% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 97% by weight, typically greater than or equal to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of isododecane.

[0031] According to another particular form of the invention, the biosourced isododecane can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps: 1) the production of isobutene (2-methylpropene according to its IUPAC name) by a fermentation process comprising the formation of 3-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid and / or 3-methylcrotonic acid as an intermediate product, and 2) the conversion of isobutene to isododecane.

[0032] This method is described in patent application WO2021 / 228824A1.

[0033] According to another particular form of the invention, biosourced isododecane can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps: 1) the production of isobutanol from biomass, 2) the conversion of isobutanol into isobutene, 3) the conversion of isobutene to isododecane, 4) purification of isododecane, 5) optionally, deodorization of isododecane.

[0034] This method is described in patent application WO2022 / 096586A1.

[0035] The biosourced isododecane is present in the composition of the invention, preferably, at a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 35% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 40% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0036] More particularly, biosourced isododecane sold under the trade name ISONATURANE 12® by the company GLOBAL BIOENERGIES will be used. Waxes

[0037] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

[0038] This wax allows you to obtain thick and loading textures.

[0039] By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), deformable or not, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0040] By "lipophilic compound" is meant a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.

[0041] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.

[0042] The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920®” by the company TA Instruments.

[0043] The measurement protocol is as follows: a 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 7 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0044] The waxes can be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0045] The wax(es) may be present in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 8 to 40% and even better still from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, Japanese wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax can be used as wax.

[0047] Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

[0048] Among these, mention may be made in particular of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.

[0049] It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57®" or the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX RICIN 16L64® and 22L73®", by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FRA-2792190.

[0050] It is also possible to use a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearoyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, in particular a C20-C40 alkyl 12-(12'-hydroxystearoyloxy)stearate, of formula (I): [Chem 1] in which n is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (1). Such a wax is notably sold under the names “KESTER WAX K 82 P®” and “KESTER WAX K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0051] Mention may also be made of the fatty alcohol(s), in particular chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, in C14-C30, preferably in C14-C24, and even better in C14-C20.

[0052] The fatty alcohol(s) is (are) in particular chosen from linear and saturated C14-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably linear and saturated C14-C24 fatty alcohols, better still linear and saturated C14-C20 fatty alcohols.

[0053] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is in the form of a mixture of several different fatty alcohols, preferably a mixture of several linear and saturated fatty alcohols in C14-C30, better still in C14-C24, even better still in C14-C20.

[0054] Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is chosen from cetyl alcohol (C16), stearic alcohol (C[8) and their mixtures (also called cetearyl alcohol).

[0055] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol. Such a mixture is notably marketed under the name LANNETTE O OR / MB® by the company BASF.

[0056] The wax(es) may be present in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax.

[0057] The term “aqueous microdispersion of wax” means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles, in which the size of said wax particles is less than or equal to approximately 1 μm.

[0058] Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are notably described in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed., Academie Press (1977) pages 21-32.

[0059] In particular, these wax microdispersions can be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally a portion of the water, then gradually adding hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of a water-in-oil type emulsion is observed, followed by phase inversion with the final production of an oil-in-water type microemulsion. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal wax particles is obtained.

[0060] Wax microdispersions can also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, high pressure homogenizer, turbines.

[0061] The particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μm (in particular ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm), preferably of less than 0.5 μm (in particular ranging from 0.06 μm to 0.5 μm).

[0062] According to a preferred embodiment, a wax chosen from beeswax, Camauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, an aqueous microdispersion of Camauba wax and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, a mixture comprising beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and an aqueous microdispersion of carnauba wax will be used. Liquid polyester

[0064] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol.

[0065] By "liquid polyester" is meant a polyester which begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25°C).

[0066] In the context of the present invention, the term "unsaturated fatty acids" means mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acid dimers may in particular comprise from 2 to 4 unsaturations in their carbon chain. The unsaturated fatty acid trimers may comprise from 3 to 6 unsaturations in their carbon chain. Preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimers and / or trimers are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6 carboxylic acid functions per molecule.

[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer may comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and 3 carboxylic acid functions.

[0068] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions, and a diol.

[0069] Mixtures of dimers and trimers of unsaturated fatty acid and / or unsaturated fatty acid (unpolymerized and therefore corresponding to a monomer) may also be used within the scope of the invention. In the case of such a mixture, a mixture comprising more than 50% by weight of dimers is preferred, for example a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95%, of acids in the form of dimers, the remainder of the mixture possibly being trimers and / or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

[0070] The dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid may optionally be hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid in order in particular to improve the stability of the dimer or trimer product.

[0071] Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic or linoleic acid) are marketed in particular under the brands EMPOL1008®, EMPOL1004®, EMPOL1025®, EMPOL1011® and EMPOL1062® by Cognis and PRIPOL 1006® (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema International. This company also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name PRIPOL 1013® (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).

[0072] In a particularly preferred manner, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is a dimer of linoleic acid, also called dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid.

[0073] The unsaturated fatty acid may be of natural origin, preferably plant-based. A fatty acid of plant origin may come from any plant source producing said fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, molecules extracted from soybeans or rapeseed may be used.

[0074] The polyester in the composition according to the invention is therefore obtained by condensation of a polymerized long-chain fatty acid with a diol.

[0075] In the context of the present invention, the term "diol" denotes a C2 to C10 hydrocarbon compound, preferably C2-C8, and preferentially C2-C6, the carbon chain of which is substituted by two hydroxyl functions. The hydrocarbon chain(s) may be interrupted by an oxygen atom.

[0076] The diols which can be used according to the invention can be linear, branched or cyclic alcohols, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the diol is a saturated linear diol.

[0077] Particularly preferably, the diol is a butanediol, in particular 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

[0078] Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2000, preferably between 1000 and 2000, and preferentially between 1200 and 1800.

[0079] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol.

[0080] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol preferably having an average molecular weight of 1500, a viscosity at 40°C of 2500 - 3500 mm2 / s (cSt) and a refractive index at 25°C of 1.475-1.485.

[0081] In this respect, we can notably cite the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: DILINOLEIC ACID / BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER).

[0082] According to one embodiment, the content of liquid polyester in the compositions of the invention is strictly less than 12% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight, and preferably equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 3 to 12% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10%, by weight of liquid polyester relative to the total weight of said composition. Lipophilic film-forming polymer

[0084] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer.

[0085] The lipophilic film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, and better still from 4% to 10% by weight.

[0086] In the present invention, the term "lipophilic polymer" means a polymer that is soluble, miscible or dispersible in the oily phase.

[0087] In the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous and adherent film on keratin fibres, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said film is produced by casting onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

[0088] Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures. Radical film-forming polymers

[0089] By "radical film-forming polymer" is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers with unsaturation, in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

[0090] The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

[0091] The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

[0092] As monomer carrying an acid group, it is possible to use α,[3-ethylenic] unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. Preferably, (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more preferably (meth)acrylic acid.

[0093] The acid monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1-C30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

[0094] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

[0095] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0096] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

[0097] Particularly preferred esters of (meth)acrylic acid are alkyl (meth)acrylates.

[0098] According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

[0099] As amides of the acid monomers, mention may be made, for example, of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

[0100] The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

[0101] Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

[0102] Styrenic monomers that may be mentioned include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene. Film-forming polycondensates

[0103] Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

[0104] The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0105] Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

[0106] The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

[0107] The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane may be used.

[0108] Polyester amides can be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

[0109] According to an alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the lipophilic film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils such as those described above (it is then said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer). Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally in a mixture with a non-volatile oil, the oils possibly being chosen from the oils mentioned above.

[0110] As an example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which comprises from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).

[0111] These copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinkers which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

[0112] Examples of such copolymers include vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, dimethyl vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0,2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene. ,

[0113] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one liposoluble film-forming polymer (soluble in the oily phase).

[0114] In particular, said liposoluble film-forming polymer is chosen from copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of an allylic or methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).

[0115] Preferably, said liposoluble polymer is chosen from vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers.

[0116] As liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0117] Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of polyvinyl stearate, of polyvinyl stearate crosslinked using divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of poly(meth)acrylate of stearyl, of polyvinyl laurate, of poly(meth)acrylate of lauryl, these poly(meth)acrylates being able to be crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

[0118] The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR2232303; they can have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500000 and preferably from 4000 to 200000.

[0119] According to another embodiment, at least one copolymer resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular polyvinyl laurate copolymers, may be used as liposoluble polymer.

[0120] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liposoluble polymer chosen from vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, polyvinyl laurate copolymers and mixtures thereof.

[0121] As liposoluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or not in C1 to C8 such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 alkene and better still in C3 to C20. As an example of a VP copolymer that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the VP / vinyl acetate copolymer, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

[0122] Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

[0123] Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins include those marketed: - by the Wacker company under the reference Resin MK® such as Belsil PMS MK® - by the SHIN-ETSU company under the references KR-220L®.

[0124] As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those marketed under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J®" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749®", "DC 593®" by the company Dow Corning.

[0125] Mention may also be made of copolymers of silicone resins such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by the company Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA® and described in document US 5,162,410 or even silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and a diorganosiloxane such as described in document WO 2004 / 073626.

[0126] According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear block ethylenic polymer, which preferably comprises at least one first block and at least one second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being linked together by an intermediate block comprising at least one monomer constituting the first block and at least one monomer constituting the second block.

[0127] Advantageously, the first and second sequences and the block polymer are incompatible with each other.

[0128] Such polymers are described for example in documents EP1411069 or WO04 / 028488.

[0129] The lipophilic film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in a non-aqueous phase. Examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer include acrylic dispersions in isododecane such as Mexomère PAP® from the company NOVEAL, dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer on the surface of the particles as described in particular in document WO 04 / 055081.

[0130] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer, notably chosen from vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, polyvinyl laurate copolymers and mixtures thereof. Lipophilic gelling agents

[0131] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent. This gelling agent may be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular.

[0132] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “lipophilic gelling agent” means a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.

[0133] As a mineral lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of clays which may be modified, such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS.

[0134] We can also mention pyrogenic silica, possibly hydrophobically treated on the surface, whose particle size is less than 1 μm. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. We can in particular substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: we then obtain a hydrophobic silica.

[0135] The hydrophobic groups can be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "SILICA SILYLATE" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company CABOT, - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). For example, they are marketed under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company CABOT.Hydrophobic fumed silica in particular has a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.

[0136] Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by the company DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by the company DOW CHEMICAL;polyamide-type polycondensates resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (|3) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one mono alcohol or a mono amine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular, ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate copolymers such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL;galactommanans comprising from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per ose, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1 to C6, and in particular C1 to C3, alkyl chains and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those marketed under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-propylene) type such as those marketed under the name of; Kraton® by the company SHELL CHEMICAL CO or even of the polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-butylene) type, the mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel® such as for example the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960®).

[0137] Among the lipophilic gelling agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

[0138] According to a particular embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent(s) is (are) chosen from mineral lipophilic gelling agents and in particular hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

[0139] According to a particular embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent(s) is (are) chosen from lipophilic polyamide polycondensates.

[0140] For the purposes of the invention, the term “polycondensate” means a polymer obtained by polycondensation, namely by chemical reaction between monomers having different functional groups chosen in particular from acid, alcohol and amine functions.

[0141] For the purposes of the invention, the term “polymer” means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and better still 10 repeating units.

[0142] The lipophilic polyamide polycondensates may in particular be chosen from polyamide polymers comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon repeating units provided with at least one non-pendant amide unit, and optionally b) at least one pendant fatty chain comprising from 6 to 120 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 120 carbon atoms, and better still from 12 to 70 carbon atoms, and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain, comprising at least 4 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon units.

[0143] By "functionalized chains" within the meaning of the invention, is meant an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional or reactive groups notably chosen from amide, hydroxyl, ether, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene, halogen groups, including fluorinated or perfluorinated groups, ester, siloxane, polysiloxane. In addition, the hydrogen atoms of one or more fatty chains may be substituted at least partially by fluorine atoms.

[0144] For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrocarbon repeating units” means a unit comprising from 2 to 80 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 60 carbon atoms, bearing hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen atoms, which may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. These units further comprise each at least one amide group which is advantageously not pendant and is located in the polymer backbone.

[0145] Advantageously, the pendant chains are linked directly to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the polymer backbone.

[0146] The lipophilic polyamide polycondensate may comprise silicone units or C2-C3 oxyalkylenated units between the hydrocarbon units.

[0147] In addition, the lipophilic polyamide polycondensate of the composition of the invention advantageously comprises from 40 to 98% of fatty chains relative to the total number of amide units and fatty chains and better still from 50 to 95%.

[0148] Preferably, the pendant fatty chains are linked to at least one of the nitrogen atoms of the amide units of the polymer. In particular, the fatty chains of this polyamide represent from 40 to 98% of the total number of amide units and fatty chains, and better still from 50 to 95%.

[0149] Advantageously, the lipophilic polyamide polycondensate has a weight-average molecular mass of less than 100,000 (in particular ranging from 1000 to 100,000), in particular of less than 50,000 (in particular ranging from 1000 to 50,000), and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30,000, preferably from 2000 to 20,000, and better still from 2000 to 10,000.

[0150] The lipophilic polyamide polycondensate is insoluble in water, especially at 25°C. In particular, it does not contain an ionic group.

[0151] As preferred lipophilic polyamide polycondensates which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of polyamides branched by pendant fatty chains and / or terminal fatty chains having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and better still from 8 to 120 and in particular from 12 to 68 carbon atoms, each terminal fatty chain being linked to the polyamide backbone by at least one linking group L. The linking group L may be chosen from ester, ether, amine, urea, urethane, thioester, thioether, thiurea, thiourethane groups. Preferably, these polymers comprise a fatty chain at each end of the polyamide backbone.

[0152] These polymers are preferably polymers resulting from a polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid having at least 32 carbon atoms (having in particular from 32 to 44 carbon atoms) with an amine chosen from diamines having at least 2 carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms) and triamines having at least 2 carbon atoms (in particular from 2 to 36 carbon atoms). The diacid is preferably a dimer derived from an ethylenically unsaturated fatty acid having at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, such as oleic, linoleic or linolenic acid. The diamine is preferably ethylene diamine, hexylene diamine, hexamethylene diamine. Triamine is for example ethylene triamine. For polymers comprising one or two terminal carboxylic acid groups, it is advantageous to esterify them with a monoalcohol having at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 36 carbon atoms and better still 12 to 24 and even better still 16 to 24, for example 18 carbon atoms.

[0153] The lipophilic polyamide polycondensate of the composition according to the invention may in particular be chosen from the polymers of the following formula (A) [Chem 2] in which: n is an integer ranging from 1 to 30, R' represents at each occurrence independently a fatty chain and is chosen from an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; Represents at each occurrence independently a divalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 52 carbon atoms; Represents at each occurrence independently a divalent hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, optionally substituted and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms preferably chosen from oxygen and nitrogen comprising at least one carbon atom, in particular Represents a linear or branched (Cl-C8)alkylene chain; preferably linear (Cl-C6)alkylene such as ethylene; Represents at each occurrence independently: a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or a direct bond to at least one group chosen from R'3 and another R'4 so that when said group is another R', the nitrogen atom to which both R'3 and R'4 are bonded forms part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R'4-N-R'3, provided that at least 50% of the R'4 represent a hydrogen atom, and L represents a linking group preferably chosen from an ester or ether or amine or urea or urethane or thioester or thioether or thiurea or thiourethane group, optionally substituted by at least one R'itel group as defined above.

[0154] According to one embodiment, these polymers are chosen from polymers of formula (A) in which the linking group L represents an ester group -C(O)-O- or -OC(O)-

[0155] These polymers are more specifically those described in document US-A-5783657 from the company Union Camp. Each of these polymers satisfies in particular the following formula (B): [Chem 3] in which: - m denotes an integer number of amide groups such that the number of ester groups represents from 10% to 50% of the total number of ester and amide groups; - Riest at each occurrence independently an alkyl or alkenyl group having at least 4 carbon atoms and in particular from 4 to 24 carbon atoms; - Represents at each occurrence independently a C4 to C42 hydrocarbon group provided that 50% of the R2 groups represent a C30 to C42 hydrocarbon group; - R3 represents at each occurrence independently a divalent hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, optionally substituted and / or optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms preferably chosen from oxygen or nitrogen atoms, in particular R3 represents a linear or branched (Cl-C8)alkylene chain, preferably linear (Cl-C6)alkylene such as ethylene; and - Represents at each occurrence independently a hydrogen atom, a C1 to C10 alkyl group or a direct bond to R3 or to another R4 such that the nitrogen atom to which both R3 and R4 are bonded is part of a heterocyclic structure defined by R4-N-R3, with at least 50% of the R4s representing a hydrogen atom.

[0156] In the particular case of formula (B), the terminal fatty chains optionally functionalized within the meaning of the invention are terminal chains linked to the last nitrogen atom of the polyamide skeleton.

[0157] In particular, the ester groups of formula (B), which are part of the terminal and / or pendant fatty chains within the meaning of the invention, represent from 15 to 40% of the total number of ester and amide groups and better still from 20 to 35%.

[0158] In addition, m advantageously represents an integer ranging from 1 to 5 and better still greater than 2.

[0159] Preferably, R is a C12 to C22 and preferably C16 to C22 alkyl group. Advantageously, R may be a divalent, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic hydrocarbon group, in particular R represents a linear or branched (C10-C42) alkylene chain. Preferably, at least 50% and better still at least 75% of the R radicals are groups having from 30 to 42 carbon atoms. The other R 2 are C4 to C19 and even C4 to C12 hydrocarbon groups.

[0160] Preferably, R3 represents a C2 to C36 hydrocarbon group or a polyoxyalkylene group and represents a hydrogen atom. Preferably, R3 represents a C2 to C12 hydrocarbon group.

[0161] The hydrocarbon groups may be linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups. Furthermore, the alkyl and alkylene groups may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated groups.

[0162] In general, the polymers of formula (B) are in the form of mixtures of polymers, these mixtures being able to further contain a synthetic product corresponding to a compound of formula (B) where n is 0, i.e. a diester.

[0163] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, a mixture of copolymers of a C36 diacid condensed on ethylene diamine will be used; the terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid ends by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures (also called cetylstearyl alcohol) (INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER). Its weight-average molecular mass is preferably 6000, even more preferably 4000. These mixtures are sold in particular by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL under the trade names UNICLEAR 80® and UNICLEAR 100 VG® respectively in the form of a gel at 80% (in active matter) in a mineral oil and at 100% (in active matter). These mixtures are also sold by CRODA under the trade name OLEOCRAFT® LP-10-PA-(MV) respectively at 99.7% (active ingredient) with a preservative. They have a softening point of 88°C to 94°C.

[0164] As polyamide polycondensates corresponding to the general formula (A), mention may also be made of polymers comprising at least one terminal fatty chain linked to the polymer backbone by at least one tertiary amide linking group (also called amide terminated polyamide or ATPA). For more information on these polymers, reference may be made to document US 6503522.

[0165] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, a copolymer of hydrogenated linoleic diacid, ethylenediamine, will be used more particularly. of di(C14-C18)alkylamine(s) (INCI name: ETHYLENEDIAMIDE / HYDROG ENATED DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER BIS-DLC14-C18 ALKYL AMIDE). This copolymer is notably sold under the trade name SYLVACLEAR A200V® by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL.

[0166] According to another embodiment, the polyamide of formula (A) may also be a poly(ester-amide) with ester ends (ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) or ETPEA), such as for example those whose preparation is described in document US 6,552,160.

[0167] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, a copolymer of hydrogenated linoleic diacid, ethylenediamine, neopentyl glycol and stearyl alcohol (INCI name: BIS-STEARYL ETHYLENEDIAMINE / NEOPENTYL GLYCOL / STEARYL HYDROGENATED DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER) will be used more particularly. This copolymer is sold in particular under the trade name SYLVACLEAR C75 V® by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL.

[0168] As polyamide polycondensates which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of those comprising at least one terminal fatty chain linked to the polymer backbone by at least one ether or polyether linking group (it is then called ether terminated poly(ether)amide). Such polymers are described for example in document US 6,399,713.

[0169] The polyamides in accordance with the invention advantageously have a softening temperature greater than 65°C and up to 190°C. Preferably, it has a softening temperature ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80 to 105°C. The polyamide is in particular a non-waxy polymer.

[0170] As polyamide polycondensates which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds having more than 2 carbonyl groups and 2 amine groups), the carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent unitary units being condensed by an amide bond. These polyamide resins are in particular those marketed under the brand name Versamid® by the companies General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp. (Versamid® 930, 744 or 1655) or by the company Olin Mathieson Chemical Corp., under the brand name Onamid® including Onamid® S or C. These resins have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000. For more information on these polyamides, please refer to documents US 3645705 and US 3148125. More specifically, Versamid® 930 or 744 are used.

[0171] It is also possible to use the polyamides sold by the Arizona Chemical company under the references Uni-Rez® (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212® by the Henkel company. For more information on these polyamides, reference can be made to document US 5500209.

[0172] It is also possible to use polyamide resins derived from vegetables such as those described in US patents 5783657 and US 5998570.

[0173] Preferably, the lipophilic polyamide polycondensate is a copolymer of a C36 diacid condensed on ethylene diamine; the terminal ester groups resulting from the esterification of the remaining acid ends by cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures.

[0174] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent, in particular at least one mineral lipophilic gelling agent, in particular hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride and at least one lipophilic polyamide polycondensate and their mixture, in particular a mixture of at least one mineral lipophilic gelling agent and at least one lipophilic polyamide polycondensate.

[0175] The lipophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.05 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Powdered coloring matter

[0176] A composition according to the invention, and in particular those dedicated to makeup, comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material.

[0177] The powdery coloring materials can be chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.

[0178] By “pigments” is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

[0179] The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

[0180] The nacres can be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0181] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a pulverulent coloring material, preferably of the pigment type, in particular metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxides, iron oxides and their mixtures; and more preferentially iron oxides, and more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).

[0182] Preferably, said powdery coloring matter is present in the composition in a content ranging from 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly from 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Charges

[0183] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also additionally comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, making it possible, in particular, to give them additional properties of mattness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

[0184] By filler is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to give body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup.

[0185] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber forms or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0186] The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0187] Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

[0188] Examples of organic fillers include polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate / Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore OL 200® (Chemdal Corporation), crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in patent US5538793. It can also be cellulose powder such as that marketed by Daito in the range Additives

[0189] The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one additive.

[0190] As additives which may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of pasty fatty substances, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, emollients, thickeners, coalescing agents, plasticizers, moisturizers, vitamins and mixtures thereof.

[0191] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0192] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

[0193] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin or the eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0194] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0195] The composition used may in particular be in the form of a product for the eyelashes such as a mascara, or a product for the eyebrows. More preferably, the invention relates to a mascara.

[0196] By "mascara" is meant a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes. It may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also called a base coat), a composition to be applied over mascara (also called a top coat), or even a cosmetic eyelash treatment composition. Mascara is more particularly intended for human eyelashes, but also for false eyelashes.

[0197] According to a particular form, the composition of the invention comprises at least 50% by weight of compounds of natural origin other than biosourced isododecane, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight, relative to the total mass of compounds distinct from biosourced isododecane present in the composition. Applications

[0198] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers, such as eyelashes, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials, in particular eyelashes, at least one cosmetic composition as defined above.

[0199] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers such as eyelashes, comprising a step of applying to the keratin materials, in particular to the eyelashes, a cosmetic composition as defined above. Together

[0200] The present invention also relates to a set, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0201] Said applicator may be integral with a gripping member forming a cover for said packaging device. In other words, said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position clear of a dispensing opening of the packaging device for said composition.

[0202] A keratin fiber coating assembly suitable for the invention may comprise an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, and where appropriate a packaging device suitable for receiving said composition. Applicator

[0203] The applicator comprises means for smoothing and / or separating the fibers. keratinous, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, particularly in the form of teeth, hairs, spikes or other reliefs.

[0204] The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, and may include, for example, a brush or a comb.

[0205] The applicator can still be used for finishing the makeup, on an area eyelashes or eyebrows made up or loaded with composition.

[0206] The brush may have a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be made in another way.

[0207] The comb is for example made from a single piece by molding plastic material.

[0208] In some embodiments, the application element is mounted at the end of a rod, which may be flexible, which may contribute to improving comfort during application.

[0209] Examples of mascara: _ example 1 according to _ the invention and example 1 outside the invention

[0210] A composition 1 according to the invention with a biosourced isododecane as defined above as well as a comparative composition with instead an isododecane of petroleum origin were prepared and tested in terms of their deposition properties on the brush.

[0211] [Tables 1] Phase Ingredients Commercial reference (supplier) Example 1 (invention) Example the (comparative) Al Cire de riz son NC 1720® (CE RA RICA NOD A) 5,6 5,6 Copolymer vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene ANTARONF ® 20 VOUX 220F® (I SP ASHLAND) 2.0 2.0 Camauba wax CERAUBAT1 ® (BAERLOCHE R) 4.7 4.7 Liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer of linoleic acid and butanediol (MW: 1500) YMER) VISCOPLAST 14436 H® (BIO SYNTHIS) 5.0 5.0 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil JOJOBA WAX FLAKES® 1.0 1.0 (DESERT WHITE ALE / VANTAG E SPEC. CHEM •) White beeswax BEESWAX WHITE SUSTAI NABLE 100® (BAERLOCHE R) 8.30 8.30 Vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer (65 / 35) MEXOMERE PQ® (NOVEAL) 3.30 3.30 Polyvinyl laurate MEXOMERE PP® (NOVEAL) 2.20 2.20 Hydrogenated C36 diacid condensate / ethylene diamine, sterified with stabilized stearyl alcohol (ANOX 20) (ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE CO POLYMER) OLEOCRAFT® LP-10-PA-(MV ) (CRODA) 1.00 1.00 B Petroleum-derived isododecane ISODODECAN E® (INEOS) qsplOO Biosourced isododecane ISONATURAN E 12® (GLOBAL BIO ENERGIES) qsplOO C Black iron oxide SUNPURO BL ACKIRON OX IDE C33-7001® (SUN) 5.20 5.20 D Distearyl Dimethyl Ammonia m Hectorite BENTONE 38 VCG® (ELEM ENTIS) 5.80 5.80 E Propylene carbonate ARCONATE P ROPYLENE C 1.90 1.90 ARBONATE® (LYONDELL) F Microdispersion of car nauba wax in water MEXORYL SA P® (NOVEAL) 7.00 7.00 Protocol for the preparation of said compositions

[0212] The compositions were prepared according to a rotor stator process.

[0213] Firstly, a bentone gel was prepared according to the following protocol:

[0214] The isododecane was weighed into a beaker and then placed under a Rayneri stirrer. with deflocculator (speed = 400 to 600 rpm depending on the amount of solvent) at room temperature. Then, the modified hectorite was added by sprinkling into the isododecane, with stirring, still at room temperature.

[0215] Then, the propylene carbonate was added and the whole was left for about 45 minutes at room temperature.

[0216] Then, the wax mixture was prepared by melting the waxes in a double-jacketed pan, connected to the oil bath until the waxes melted (bath setting 120°C). The whole was stirred using a Rayneri rotor-stator stirrer as soon as the waxes were melted to homogenize.

[0217] The pigments were then added to the waxy mixture, still with rotor-stator stirring, at approximately 1500-1700 rpm. The oil bath setting was lowered to obtain 95°C in the pan and the whole was left for 20 to 30 minutes.

[0218] The bentone gel (prepared as above) was added, with rotor-stator stirring, and the stirring was increased to 2000 rpm. The temperature of the mixture was lowered and left until the temperature was homogenized at 85°C.

[0219] The oil bath setpoint was then lowered to 25°C and the rotor-stator agitation was removed and the blade was switched to "step by step" with a speed reducer adapter (Rayneri setpoint 400 rpm).

[0220] From 40°C, the additives (micro dispersion of waxes, alcohol, active ingredients, etc.) were added under Rayneri, using a deflocculator to stir thoroughly to homogenize (Rayneri speed 700 to 1000 rpm). Finally, the whole thing was put back under the paddle "step by step" to continue cooling down to 25°C.

[0221] After packaging the formulas in a mascara applicator, they were evaluated by a sensory test carried out according to the protocol described below.

[0222] Sensory tests of shine and flexibility of the bristles of an application brush after depositing the product

[0223] A comparative sensory test of observation of the deposit of the product on a mascara application brush was carried out on a panel of at least 13 Caucasian women. These panelists were trained in the evaluation of mascaras, on the definitions, gestures and descriptors of each characteristic evaluated. Thanks to this training, the panelists can be different for the evaluation of two products to be compared. The evaluation was carried out in a hot water bottle with a diving application brush (AC mascara) of the type "MASCSTALK ALBEA PBT Brosse AAP857" having the following characteristics - Polystyrene brush rod (PST) of commercial reference CRASTIN FGD600F40NC010 DUPONT® conical sealing - Polyamide (PA) brush with commercial reference PA Generic® manufactured by the company PONZINI; - Brush shape: round reference PR166 IN; - Type of attachment: by crimping; - Cover in poly(acrylonitrile / butadiene / styrene (ABS) with commercial reference NOVODUR P 2H AT - STYROLUTION®.

[0224] Each product was evaluated on the same eye.

[0225] The shine of the product on the brush was evaluated. The evaluation was carried out after making three back and forth movements by rotating the brush in the hot water bottle and then wiping the tip. The application on eyelashes consisted of only long strokes. The total number of strokes was 42 strokes with a 24-stroke refill. The makeup result was evaluated after complete application of the product.

[0226] The brush was then wiped with a tissue. Then the brush was felt, assessing its hardness / flexibility, with the finger by sliding it along the entire length from the tip to the stem, in 3 back-and-forth movements.

[0227] Gloss was rated on a scale of 0 to 15 with: 0 = matte on the brush, 7.5 = intermediate shine on the brush, 10 = very shiny on the brush.

[0228] Brush hardness was rated on a scale of 0 to 15 with : 0 = soft brush, 7.5 = intermediate brush hardness, 10 = hard brush.

[0229] An average of the scores of all panelists was then calculated for each of these criteria.

[0230] A two-tailed Student's t-test with independent samples was performed. Significant differences are declared with an alpha risk equal to 0.05 and trends with an alpha risk equal to 0.1.

[0231] The results obtained on the shine of the product on the brush are indicated in the following table 2.

[0232] [Tables2] Composition Average shine of the product on the brush Example 1 (invention) with biosourced isododecane 9 Example 1 (outside the invention) with petroleum-based isododecane 11

[0233] The results obtained on the hardness of the brush are indicated in the following table 3.

[0234] [Tables3] Composition Average hardness of the brush bristles after deposition of the product Example 1 (invention) with bio-sourced isododecane 4 Example 1 (outside the invention) with petroleum-based isododecane 7

[0235] The results of the sensory tests showed that example 1 of mascara according to the invention comprising biosourced isododecane led to a less shiny deposit of product on the brush and made the bristles of the brush more flexible compared to example 1a comprising isododecane of petroleum origin.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one oily phase comprising at least one biosourced isododecane; and b) at least one wax; and c) at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol; and d) at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer; and e) at least one lipophilic gelling agent; and f) at least one particulate coloring matter

2. Composition according to claim 1, where the biosourced isododecane has a percentage of modern carbon (pMC), determined according to standard ASTM D6866-20 method B, greater than or equal to 50%, preferably greater than or equal to 60%, more preferably greater than or equal to 70%, advantageously greater than or equal to 80%, typically greater than or equal to 90%.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the biosourced isododecane has a 2,2,4,6,6-pentamethylheptane content greater than 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the isodecane.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the biosourced isododecane has a 2,2,4,6,6-pentamethylheptane content greater than or equal to 90% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 95% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 97% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of isododecane.

5. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the bio-sourced isododecane is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: 1) the production of isobutene (2-methylpropene according to its IUPAC name) by a fermentation process comprising the formation of 3-hydroxy-3-methylbutyric acid and / or 3-methylcrotonic acid as an intermediate product, and [2) the conversion of isobutene into isododecane.

6. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the bio-sourced isododecane is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: 1) production of isobutanol from biomass, 2) conversion of isobutanol to isobutene, 3) conversion of isobutene to isododecane, 4) purification of isododecane, 5) optionally, deodorization of isododecane.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the biosourced isododecane is present at a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 35% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 40% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the wax(es) is (are) present in a content ranging from 5 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 8 to 40% and even better still from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the wax(es) is (are) chosen from beeswax, Camauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil, an aqueous microdispersion of Camauba wax and mixtures thereof.

10. A composition according to any preceding claim, comprising a mixture comprising beeswax, Camauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and an aqueous microdispersion of Camauba wax.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid polyester is obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions.

12. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the diol is a saturated linear diol, preferably a butanediol.

13. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the liquid polyester is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the content of liquid polyester is strictly less than 12%. by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight, and preferably equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the content of liquid polyester varies from 3 to 12% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one lipophilic film-forming polymer chosen from vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, polyvinyl laurate copolymers and mixtures thereof.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the lipophilic film-forming polymer(s) is (are) present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, and better still from 4 to 10% by weight.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent(s) is (are) present in an amount of active material ranging from 0.05 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride, a lipophilic polyamide polycondensate and their mixture, in particular a mixture of at least hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride and at least one lipophilic polyamide polycondensate.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the pulverulent coloring matter is chosen from metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxides, iron oxides and their mixtures; and more preferably iron oxides, and more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).

21. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the powdery coloring matter is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly from 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least 50% by weight of compounds of natural origin other than biosourced isododecane, preferably at least 80% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight, advantageously at least 95% by weight, relative to the total quantity of compounds other than biosourced isododecane present in the composition.

23. A composition according to any preceding claim in the form of an eyelash product such as mascara, an eyebrow product or an eye contour product such as eyeliner.

24. Set or kit for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers comprising: - a packaging device comprising a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 23; - an applicator for said composition.

25. Process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin around the eyelashes, the skin around the eyebrows, keratin fibers such as the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 23.