COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR POLYESTER, AT LEAST ONE VOLATILE SOLVENT AND AN UNMODIFIED HECTORITE TYPE FILLER AND METHOD FOR USING IT

Abstract

Title: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR POLYESTER, AT LEAST ONE VOLATILE SOLVENT AND AN UNMODIFIED HECTORITE TYPE FILLER AND METHOD USING IT The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising:- at least one natural resin,- at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid,- at least one volatile solvent, - optionally at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, - at least one unmodified hectorite type filler.It also relates to a method of treatment, in particular of makeup, of human keratin materials, in which this composition is applied to said keratin materials.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR POLYESTER, AT LEAST ONE VOLATILE SOLVENT AND AN UNMODIFIED HECTORITE TYPE FILLER AND METHOD USING IT

[0001] The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably for makeup in particular for the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one polyester obtained by reaction of a polyglycerol-3, a dimer acid and a C8-C30 monoacid, at least one volatile solvent, optionally at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one unmodified hectorite type filler, as well as a process using it.

[0002] Many cosmetic compositions, in particular makeup containing among other things coloring materials such as foundations, concealers, lipsticks, lip glosses, have been developed to improve the hold and non-transfer properties.

[0003] Improving the hold of the compositions is achieved by compositions forming a film after application. Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents which evaporate on contact with the skin or lips, leaving a layer comprising waxes and / or film-forming polymers, pigments and fillers. Film-forming polymers are synthetic polymers, often silicone or acrylic. Thus, mention may be made of the use of silicone resins, such as, for example, resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane type (INCI name) or even comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer (INCI name). Acrylic polymers of the Acrylic Acid / Isobutyl Acrylate / Isobomyl Acrylate Copolymer type are also used.However, these compositions are often considered less comfortable, or even uncomfortable, from a sensory point of view for consumers. As for the fillers, they are chosen in particular according to their capacity to absorb sebum, sweat and / or oils from the composition, and often from among polymeric fillers. However, such fillers can be considered as “microplastics” which we also seek to avoid.

[0004] Indeed, in recent years, consumers have become more demanding about the composition of their cosmetic products and are particularly seeking to minimize the silicone compound content, or even to do without them. In return, they seek to use products with a higher content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients with a minimized environmental impact and / or ingredients that are compatible with many packaging options.

[0005] Thus, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. those whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that will thus make it possible to meet these environmental challenges.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good index of naturalness and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0007] The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use, which notably include silicone film-forming polymers.

[0008] We are therefore still looking for cosmetic compositions, in particular makeup compositions, which are effective, comfortable, and also have good staying power, without it being necessary to use the film-forming polymers conventionally used, in particular silicone polymers, and which are more respectful of the environment, for example by using more natural or naturally derived compounds.

[0009] These problems and others are solved by the present invention which relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid, - at least one volatile solvent, - optionally at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, - at least one unmodified hectorite type filler.

[0010] The present invention also relates to a method for treating human keratin materials, preferably makeup, in which the aforementioned cosmetic composition is applied to the human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips.

[0011] The composition according to the invention is stable over time and, when applied to the lips, has the advantage of being easy to apply, without dewetting upon application or blotting. The deposit obtained is also precise, homogeneous, non-stringy, with little or no stickiness. The deposit does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, particularly around the lips.

[0012] The deposit has good hold. It is also comfortable, without leaving a feeling of dryness or tightness.

[0013] When applied to the skin, for example in the form of an emulsion, the composition according to the invention is easy to apply, light, non-sticky and comfortable. It allows a very homogeneous distribution of pigments and pearlescent agents on the skin, without a mask effect.

[0014] The deposit obtained by applying the composition also has good resistance over time, and this without using silicone film-forming polymers.

[0015] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a liquid composition.

[0016] By “liquid composition” is meant any composition which has one or more of the following characteristics:

[0017] i) flows under its own weight at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 .105 Pa);

[0018] ii) is not solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and of which it is possible to measure a viscosity or its consistency characterized by its hardness;

[0019] iii) does not have any particular shape such as that which can be obtained by hot casting in a mold or container of a given shape.

[0020] Such compositions can therefore be found in particular in fluid, creamy, pasty or gel form. Protocol for viscosity measurement

[0021] The viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle No. 2, No. 3 or No. 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle within the composition (time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the spindle is observed), at a speed of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).

[0022] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may have a viscosity at 25°C of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably of between 0.2 and 20 Pa.s. Preferably, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be of between 0.2 and 10 Pa.s.

[0023] In particular, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.1 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 25 Pa.s (mobile 4), preferably between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 20 Pa.s (mobile 4), and better still between 0.2 Pa.s (mobile 2) and 10 Pa.s (mobile 4).

[0024] In the context of the present invention, the term “human keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, the lips, the eye contour, the eyelids, the eyelashes and the eyebrows.

[0025] POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYESTER / DIMER ACID / FATTY MONO ACID

[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

[0027] By "polyester" is meant any polymer obtained by condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains the repetition of its ester function. The ester function designates a characteristic group formed by an atom linked simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the linked atom is a carbon atom, we speak of a carboxylic ester whose general formula is R-COO-R'.

[0028] By “polyglycerol-3” is meant triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is the majority in said mixture.

[0029] The polyesters of the invention are described as well as their synthesis in patent applications US 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930 in the name of the company Nouryon.

[0030] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product.

[0031] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product" is meant the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii).

[0032] By "completely non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii)" is meant that the total contents of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0033] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of the components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0034] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all of the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3. Polyglycerol-3

[0035] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly denotes a glycerol residue after elimination of two hydroxyl groups.

[0036] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols which may be any oligocondensation product of glycerol. They preferably correspond to the formula (I): H[-O-Gly-]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0037] Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues involving etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the scope of "Gly" and, therefore, may also be present.

[0038] Examples of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is in particular from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5 and in particular 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols in these ranges.

[0039] Examples of particularly suitable polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution in which all weight percentages are based on the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture. - glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, most preferably 0 to 15% by weight; - diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, most preferably 20 to 32% by weight; - triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, most preferably 18 to 55% by weight; - tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, most preferably 8 to 20% by weight; - pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, most preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, most preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, most preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, most preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0 to 2% by weight; - decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, most preferably 0 to 2% by weight.

[0040] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in blend form comprises the following polyglycerol distribution: Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight; Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight; Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight; Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight; Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0041] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in blend form is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in blend form.

[0042] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight weight of tetraglycerol; in which all percentages by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0043] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0044] Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition may be performed to determine its median or "average" polyglycerol number. The above examples of polyglycerols with narrow and broad distributions may also be referred to as polyglycerol-3, as it is the integer closest to the mean and / or median. Dimer acid

[0045] The dimer acid may be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They may be linear or branched, such as, for example, dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0046] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids which are obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0047] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference is made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0048] The dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0049] Preferred dimer acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce C18 unsaturated monobasic fatty acids. The starting materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybean, pumpkin, and walnut can be used. The target monobasic acids used in the reaction are rich in the oleic and linoleic acid forms described in the fatty acid list contained below. The dimerization primarily results in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After reaction, the product can be stored as a reaction product mixture or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0050] In one case, a standard dimer acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, which contains 72% by weight dimer and 19% by weight trimer acid, is used.

[0051] In another case, a standard hydrogenated dimer acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87% by weight of dimer and 10% by weight of trimer acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, a more hydrophobic character and a higher viscosity than those which can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0052] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0053] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimer acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0054] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0055] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or more preferably at most 90% by weight, or more preferably at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight). Monofatty acid

[0056] The C8-C30 monofatty acids may include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher MW chains. Useful monofatty acids may be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic materials with acidity provided by carboxylic acid moieties.

[0057] Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecylic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0058] Comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and results in a low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also in allowing esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isotearic acid is available as a reaction by-product in the creation of the dimer acid described above.

[0059] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated monofatty acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondoic acid (C20:1), dihomo-y linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the length of the carbon chain is X carbon atoms; and there are Y number of double bonds in the chain.

[0060] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0061] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or wholly non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and iii) isostearic acid.

[0062] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process that involves introducing all of the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0063] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl moieties (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl moieties by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20% to 40%. More importantly, the degree of esterification by the end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this specification and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid of 4 to 40%.

[0064] It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0065] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13% and 20%.

[0066] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4% and 40%.

[0067] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0068] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0069] It is also even more preferred to also have most preferred a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0070] In one embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0071] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0072] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0073] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0074] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0075] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0076] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0077] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0078] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0079] In another embodiment, the components being reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0080] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0081] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol acid extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0082] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0083] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and <2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0084] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and <2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0085] In a most preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and <2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0086] Viscosity is measured using an Anton Paar Inc. MCR3O2® rheometer. Twin rough or smooth 50 mm diameter flat plates were used, coated with a polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. Polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polymers of this disclosure have demonstrated reduced viscosity with temperature. Thus, viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally as a shear rate of 1. Values ​​are reported in mPa.s.

[0087] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by weight-average molecular masses > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0088] The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of Tetrahydrofuran (THF) was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 pL injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended to be monodisperse. The narrow range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da and 208 Da. From standard methodologies, the weight and number average molecular mass are automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0089] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a most preferred embodiment, the described polymers have a weight average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da as measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0090] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of weight average molecular weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0091] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case based on the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid; wherein the polymer has a combination of weight average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and pure polymer viscosity > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.s at 25°C; and wherein the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0092] In practice, since the raw ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid content, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl moieties and carboxylic acid moieties as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography. The above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the C36 dimer acid. The actual ranges may therefore be slightly different from the values ​​given above and can be calculated based on these analytical values.

[0093] It is more convenient to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid number. The initial acid values, in light of the distribution of polyglycerol, monoacid and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the raw ingredient used.

[0094] For an example, the initial total acid number ("AV" which is commonly defined as mg KOH / g total reactant) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All of the preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When during the polymerization reaction the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percent conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactant acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0095] Thus, the reaction completion rate is defined by 1 - final AV / initial AV.

[0096] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have acid numbers final values ​​of 0.1 to < 25 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0097] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0098] In a most preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH / g polymer.

[0099] The reaction completion rate being defined by the equation 1- AV final / AV initial, the reaction completion rate of such mixtures in final polymer is > 80%.

[0100] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures to the final polymer is > 90%.

[0101] In a most preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such blends to the final polymer is > 95%.

[0102] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of document US 2021 / 0259945.

[0103] According to a preferred variant of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising: (a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimer acid; and (iii) at least one mono fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and (b) at least one non-volatile oil.

[0104] Said non-volatile oil(s) may be chosen from those which will be described later.

[0105] According to an advantageous embodiment, the oily solution comprises, as non-volatile oil(s), at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0106] The polyester oil solution can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the non-volatile oil or oils at about 80-100°C. The whole is then further cooled to 50-70°C to be removed from the reactor and stored.

[0107] Said oily polyester solution preferably contains the polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0108] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of document US 2021 / 0259945.

[0109] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising: a) a polyester obtained by reaction (i) of a polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids; said mixture having the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0110] Such an oily solution is marketed under the name Solamaze Natural® by the company Nouryon comprising 60% by weight of polyester active material and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride relative to the total weight of the oily solution.

[0111] According to a preferred embodiment, the quantity of polyester, expressed as active material, varies from 2 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0112] VOLATILE SOLVENTS

[0113] The composition in accordance with the present invention comprises at least one volatile solvent.

[0114] In the context of the invention, the term “volatile solvent” is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 .105Pa) having a vapor pressure at 20°C ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8,000 Pa.

[0115] Among the volatile solvents, we can cite: - monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms; - volatile oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, or their mixtures, and preferably from hydrocarbon oils; - their mixtures.

[0116] According to a particular form of the invention, the volatile solvent is chosen from: - monoalcohols containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms; - non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils, or their mixtures; - their mixtures.

[0117] Preferably, the composition comprises, as volatile solvents, at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol and at least one apolar volatile hydrocarbon oil. C2-C6 monoalcohol

[0118] The monoalcohol(s) in accordance with the invention preferably comprise from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

[0119] The monoalcohol(s) may be represented for example by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0120] As mono-alcohol, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0121] Preferably, said monoalcohol comprises at least ethanol and even more preferably, the monoalcohol is ethanol.

[0122] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the monoalcohol content represents from 1 to 40% by weight, advantageously from 3 to 35% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Volatile oils

[0123] Oil is understood to mean any lipophilic compound found in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0124] The volatile oil(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon oils, preferably apolar, silicone oils or their mixtures.

[0125] For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8,000 Pa (OECD standard 104).

[0126] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0127] By "apolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0128] By “silicone oil” is meant an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0129] The apolar volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and their mixtures.

[0130] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can thus be chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0131] Examples of linear alkanes, in particular C8-C14, that may be mentioned include n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12 97® and Parafol 14 97®, and mixtures thereof. According to another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane may be used, and in particular the dodecane / tetradecane mixture sold by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight 1214®. According to yet another embodiment, it is also possible to use a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes with the INCI name: C9-12 Alkane such as the product marketed by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight Silk®.According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) can be used, such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by the company BASF.

[0132] Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007 / 068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

[0133] The volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes. Mention may be made in particular of C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®.

[0134] As an example of volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, and containing in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl-cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0135] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from apolar volatile hydrocarbon oils, even more particularly chosen from branched C8-C16 alkanes, from linear C8-C14 alkanes, as well as their mixtures, and in particular isododecane, the mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13), and their mixtures.

[0136] Preferably, the content of volatile oil(s), preferably apolar hydrocarbon oil(s), represents from 1 to 75% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, then their content does not exceed 5% by weight, more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of them.

[0138] NON-VOLATILE OILS

[0139] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the aforementioned polyester. More particularly, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from non-volatile, polar or apolar hydrocarbon oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0140] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetry effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104). Polar hydrocarbon oils

[0141] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant that said oils comprise, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen atom. Thus said hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one hydroxyl, ester, ether and / or carboxylic function.

[0142] The composition according to the invention can therefore comprise at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, more particularly chosen from: * Fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, Cio-C26, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. More particularly, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; * Ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a group hydrocarbon comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably C3-Ci6; * esters, notably chosen from: - hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; - ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms; - liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and a polyol; * as well as their mixtures.

[0143] Preferably, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is chosen from: - lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; preferably octyldodecanol; - dicaprylyl ether; - dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate; - castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pothnarron oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter and mixtures thereof; - 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, tri-2-decyl Glyceryl tetradecanoate, capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, C18-36 acid triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, tri-2-decyl glyceryl tetradecanoate, triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, tetraisononanoate pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate; isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxy stearate, - polyesters with the following INCI names: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, - as well as mixtures thereof. Non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils

[0144] The non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin such as for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, in particular of vegetable origin, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane Cl8-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L15 and L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers, - polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company Nippon Oil & Fat, - polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range marketed by the company Ineos, Dekanex by the company IMCD, - and their mixtures.

[0145] Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the non-volatile oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils, alone or in mixtures, different from the aforementioned polyester, in particular chosen from alcohols and esters.

[0146] According to an even more preferred embodiment, if the composition comprises it, the polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil(s) is / are chosen from octyldodecanol, vegetable oils, ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0147] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from octyldodecanol, fatty acid triglycerides containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0148] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils, different from the aforementioned polyester, in particular from fatty alcohols, esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0149] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, chosen from fatty alcohols, vegetable oils, ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0150] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is chosen from fatty acid triglycerides containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI Name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0151] If the composition comprises it, the content of non-volatile oil(s) varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Optional non-volatile silicone oils

[0152] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one optional non-volatile silicone oil chosen from phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, comprising or not at least one dimethicone fragment, non-phenylated non-volatile silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0153] The term “phenylated” specifies that said oil contains at least one phenyl radical in its structure.

[0154] The term "dimethicone fragment" designates a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom carries two methyl radicals, this group not being found at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0155] Preferably, the silicones do not contain a C2-C3 alkylene oxide group, nor a glycerol group.

[0156] As non-volatile phenylated oil comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and their mixtures, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Diphenyl Dimethicones are notably marketed by the company Shin Etsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS. Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone is for example marketed by the company Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20.

[0157] Among the non-volatile phenylated silicone oils devoid of dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the compounds with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures. As non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of those marketed by the company Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by the company Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, by the company Shin Etsu with the KF-96 A range.

[0158] Representative examples of non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyldimethicones. Note that “Dimethicone” (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils are chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C2-C24 alkyl group, as well as mixtures thereof. Thus, these oils can be chosen from Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, Stearyl Dimethicone, alone or in mixtures. Suitable non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils include those marketed by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by Shin Etsu with the KF-96 A range.Alkyldimethicones can be marketed, for example, under the commercial references Abil Wax 9800, Abil Wax 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid, Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax, from Dow Corning; and their mixtures.

[0159] Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, then their content does not exceed 5% by weight, more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of them.

[0160] UNMODIFIED HECTORITE TYPE CHARGES

[0161] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one unmodified hectorite type filler.

[0162] By “filler” is meant a colorless or white, solid particle of any shape, which is in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0163] More specifically, the world reference for the classification of clays is the work of Bergaya / Lagaly (Bergaya F., Lagaly G. “Handbook of Clay Science” 2nd Edition. A. Fundamentals — Elsevier Ltd., 2013).

[0164] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “unmodified hectorite” means a natural or synthetic hectorite, which has not undergone any chemical modification of any kind. For example, unmodified hectorite is distinct from hectorites modified by a halide, such as C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, which will be described later in the text.

[0165] Thus, the unmodified hectorite used as filler in the composition according to the invention is part of the natural or synthetic phyllosilicates, preferably natural, having a so-called TOT (tetrahedron-octahedron-tetrahedron: two tetrahedral sheets frame an octahedral layer) sheet structure, also called 2 / 1 phyllosilicates, belonging to the group of smectites, and more precisely to the subgroup of trioctahedral smectites. The structure of smectites is distinguished from other phyllosilicates by an interfoliar space between each association of TOT sheets which depends on its state of hydration (clays sometimes called "swelling") and in which interfoliar cations are intercalated.

[0166] According to a preferred embodiment, the unmodified hectorite used in the composition according to the invention is a natural hectorite.

[0167] By "natural hectorite" is meant a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, purification or filtration.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, the unmodified hectorite suitable for the invention may comprise at least 30% by weight, preferably from 35% to 65% by weight of SiO2, relative to the total weight of the unmodified clay, and at least 10% by weight, preferably from 15% to 30% by weight of MgO, relative to the total weight of the unmodified clay.

[0169] According to a more preferred embodiment, the unmodified hectorite suitable for the invention may comprise from 35% to 65% by weight of SiO2, relative to the total weight of the unmodified clay, and from 15% to 30% by weight of MgO, relative to the total weight of the unmodified clay.

[0170] According to a preferred embodiment, the hectorite suitable for the invention may comprise a SiO2 / MgO weight ratio ranging from 1 to 3; preferably from 1.5 to 2.5; more preferably from 1.8 to 2.4.

[0171] The unmodified clay suitable for the invention is generally available in powder form.

[0172] As unmodified clay and more particularly unmodified hectorite, it is possible to use in particular that marketed by Elementis under the name Bentone EW or Hydroclay 2000 LO.

[0173] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, of unmodified hectorite type filler, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] If the composition comprises an aqueous phase, then the unmodified hectorite type filler used in the context of the invention is preferably introduced into the lipophilic phase of the composition.

[0175] AQUEOUS PHASE

[0176] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise an aqueous phase.

[0177] More particularly, said aqueous phase comprises at least water, optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents, water-soluble active agents, water-soluble antimicrobial agents.

[0178] The water may more particularly be demineralized water, floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and / or thermal water.

[0179] According to a first variant of the invention, the composition comprises a water content of at least 15% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 20 and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] According to this variant, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, more precisely an emulsion whose continuous phase is the oily phase and in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye (water-in-oil emulsion or inverse emulsion).

[0181] According to a second variant, the composition is in the form of a composition whose water content is less than 15% by weight of water, more particularly less than 10% by weight, and even more advantageously less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the water content does not exceed 1% by weight of water, or is even devoid of it.

[0182] Among the water-soluble solvents that may be present in the composition, and in particular in the aqueous phase, mention may be made of C2-C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol. Mention may also be made of polyols such as glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, propylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

[0183] According to a particular form, the composition of the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol, in particular ethanol.

[0184] Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the content of water-soluble solvent(s) represents 0.1 to 20% by weight, more particularly 0.5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0185] SURFACTANTS

[0186] If the composition is in the form of an emulsion, in particular an inverse emulsion, it comprises one or more surfactants, preferably non-ionic surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.

[0187] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "surfactant" means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, i.e. one having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value, HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0188] Mention may preferably be made of non-silicone non-ionic surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars. Particularly suitable are surfactants whose chemical structure results from the reaction of at least one polyhydroxystearic acid and / or at least one polyricinoleic acid with a polyol containing at least two alcohol functions. Preferably, the polyol is a polyethylene glycol or a polyglycerol.

[0189] As alkylated polyol esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name Cithrol DPHS-SO-(MV)® from the company Croda.

[0190] As glycerol and / or sorbitan esters, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt; Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate marketed under the name Lameform TGI® by BASF, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI.

[0191] Mention may also be made of Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate / Sebacate sold under the commercial reference ISOLAN GPS® by the company Evonik Degussa; Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the commercial reference DEHYMULS PGPH® by the company BASF; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate sold under the commercial reference SY-GLYSTER CRS-75® by the company Sakamoto Yakuhin; Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate sold under the reference EMULIUM ILLUSTRO® by the company Gattefossé; Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate sold under the reference AKOLINE PGPR® by the company Aarhus Karlshamn; Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate sold under the commercial reference SUNSOFT N0.8I8R-C® by the company Taiyo Kagaku; Polyglyceryl-10 Polyricinoleate sold under the commercial reference NIKKOL DECAGLYN PR 20® by the company Nikko Chemicals Co.; PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxy stearate sold under the commercial reference CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV) ® by the company Croda; and mixtures thereof.

[0192] If the composition comprises it, the content of surfactant(s) preferably varies from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] COLOURING MATERIALS

[0194] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one coloring material.

[0195] According to a particular form of the invention, the coloring matter may be chosen from powdery coloring matters, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Powdered coloring matter

[0196] The powdery coloring materials can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, nacres and their mixtures.

[0197] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0198] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0199] By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 in mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0200] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

[0201] According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and which can go up to 100 nm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

[0202] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the Master Sizer 3000® type from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range from 0.01 qm to 1000 qm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0203] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles has.

[0204] According to a particular form of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter being preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0205] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0206] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0207] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the commercial reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

[0208] According to a preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with isopropyl triisostearyl titanate. As examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the commercial reference BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

[0209] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0210] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0211] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolics as described in patent FR2 679 771.,

[0212] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixing of the organic pigments on the core.

[0213] The pigment may also be a lake. By lake is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0214] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0215] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Bine 1 (CI 42 090).

[0216] Examples of lacquers include the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15850:1).

[0217] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pulverulent coloring material of mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metal oxides, and more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or not, and their mixtures.

[0218] The nacres can be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0219] Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the pulverulent coloring matter(s) is (are) present, preferably, in the composition in a content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring matters

[0220] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or liposoluble coloring matter and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0221] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of those skilled in the art.

[0222] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.

[0223] By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

[0224] As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ([3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0225] The additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0226] For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring matter" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of coloring.

[0227] As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocyanin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0228] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colorant(s), if the composition comprises them, are preferably present at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] COSMETIC ADDITIVES

[0230] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; UV filters; additional fillers, different from the unmodified hectorite type fillers described previously; waxes; pasty compounds; hydrophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents; mineral lipophilic thickeners, which will be described later, or organic such as for example esters of dextrin and fatty acid, in particular C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof, and more preferably, dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate; perfumes; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0231] It is a matter of routine operation for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not affected.

[0232] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not, or not substantially, altered by the envisaged addition. Additional charges

[0233] The compositions in accordance with the invention may thus comprise at least one additional filler different from the aforementioned unmodified hectorite type fillers.

[0234] The additional fillers may be inorganic or organic.

[0235] Preferably, they can be chosen from natural or naturally derived fillers.

[0236] By "natural filler" or "natural compound" is meant a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as for example grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0237] By "filler of natural origin" or "compound of natural origin" is meant a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising mainly natural constituents that have or have not undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of additional chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control organizations such as Ecocert (Reference for organic and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toileries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0238] The additional fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the present invention can be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber forms or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0239] The additional fillers may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with amino acids or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. Mineral fillers

[0240] Examples of mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, hollow silica microspheres, diatomaceous earth, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. Organic charges

[0241] Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned are natural micronized waxes; metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0242] Preferably, if the composition contains it, the additional filler(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0243] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one hydrocarbon wax, polar or apolar.

[0244] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature, with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.

[0245] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3; 1999 standard. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q2000” by the company TA Instruments with the “TA Universal Analysis” software.

[0246] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (AHf) can also be measured, which is the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0247] Waxes can be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0248] In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better still greater than or equal to 40°C. Non-polar waxes

[0249] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms, such as, for example, N, O, Si, P, etc.

[0250] As examples of apolar waxes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, microwaxes, in particular polyethylene waxes. Polar waxes

[0251] Polar waxes can in particular be hydrocarbon or silicone.

[0252] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one heteroatom more particularly chosen from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0253] By “silicone wax” is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

[0254] According to a first preferred embodiment, the polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0255] As hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred.

[0256] According to the invention, the term “ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0257] According to the invention, the term “alcohol wax” means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl group (OH).

[0258] The following may in particular be used as ester wax, alone or in mixtures: i) waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 6 to 50, in particular from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as for example O, N and whose melting temperature varies more particularly from 30 to 120 C. In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “Kester Wax K82H” by the company Koster Keunen. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and their mixtures can also be used. ii) di-(trimethyl-1,1,1-propane) tetrastearate, iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are the same or different, preferably the same, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R4 represents a aliphatic group, linear or branched C4-C30 and which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. iv) Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having in particular linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73®, or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those in the Phytowax Olive range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57, marketed by the company Sophim. Such waxes are notably described in application FR2792190. v) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol. By total esters, it is meant that all the hydroxyl functions of the glycerol are esterified. By way of example, mention may be made of trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as, for example, Thixcin R, Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties. vi) Mention may also be made of waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange wax, Laurel wax, sunflower wax, in particular refined. vii) Mention may also be made of hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) may vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerolated units may vary from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated camauba waxes, such as PEG-12 camauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethenate or polyoxypropylenate, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswax, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters blend, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and their blends (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters.

[0259] According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. As alcohol wax, mention may be made of mixtures of linear, saturated C3o-C5o alcohols such as, for example, Performacol 550 Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0260] Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes. More particularly, it is chosen from apolar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; alcohol waxes; as well as their mixtures; and preferably from apolar hydrocarbon waxes, alone or in mixtures.

[0261] The content of wax(es), in the case where the composition comprises it, advantageously varies from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Pasty compounds

[0262] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pasty compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0263] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" means a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, exhibiting in particular in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at room temperature a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0264] In other words, the onset melting temperature of the pasty compound may be lower than room temperature. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at room temperature may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at room temperature preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

[0265] The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes. In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fat is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fat is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the quantity of energy required to pass the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the value under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

[0266] The pasty compound may in particular be chosen from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of plant origin.

[0267] The pasty compound(s) may in particular be chosen from: - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins; - petroleum jelly (also called petrolatum), - pentaerythritol and C2-C4 polyalkylene glycol ethers, for example, compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. Examples include the mixture marketed under the name Lanolide, by the company Vevy, - fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50. Among the fat-soluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides are considered in particular, more preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, we will notably mention the product with the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer marketed for example under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by the company Akzo Nobel, - the esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched, preferably saturated, C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, C6-C20, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C6-C2o fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo. (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2), - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably Ci2-Ci8, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example the glycerides of saturated fatty acids C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides), - esters of dimer diol, or polyol, and dimer diacid such as for example: * esters of dimer dilinoleic alcohol and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); - butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax such as, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, - hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil, - and their mixtures.

[0268] If the composition comprises at least one pasty compound, its content varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic thickeners

[0269] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen more particularly from silicas, hydrophobically treated or not; lipophilic clays; alone or as a mixture. It should be noted that lipophilic thickeners are not considered, within the meaning of the invention, as fillers. Silicas

[0270] The composition according to the invention may thus comprise, as mineral thickener, a pyrogenic silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. Fumed silica

[0271] Suitable for the invention is fumed silica treated with a hydrophobic surface. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

[0272] The hydrophobic groups can be: - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called “Silica Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot. - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called “Silica Dimethyl Silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are, for example, marketed under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot. Silica aerogels

[0273] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0274] They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the different drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0275] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 pm, better still from 1 to 1000 pm, preferably from 1 to 100 pm, in particular from 1 to 30 pm, more preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0276] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better still from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0277] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0278] The sizes of silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles,” Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0279] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (MS) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better still from 5 to 15 pm.

[0280] Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name Silica Silylate).

[0281] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0282] Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by silylation, reference may be made to document US 7,470,725.

[0283] Particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will preferably be used.

[0284] As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0285] Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by the company Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

[0286] We can also cite the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Lipophilic clays

[0287] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

[0288] Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

[0289] The clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, particularly steralkonium chloride or di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

[0290] They can be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0291] Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites and bentonites.

[0292] For example, one can use a lipophilic clay chosen from bentonites hydrophobically modified and hydrophobically modified hectorites, in particular by a quaternary ammonium chloride in CIO to C22, such as: - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Viscogel® LG-M, Viscogel® MP 250 Viscogel® VZ, Viscogel® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel ® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4, Viscogel® SD by the company Bentec SPA; - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil such as the commercial products DUB VELVET GUM® from the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS FILS, MYGLYOL GEL T® from the company Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel ® DBA 6060, Tixogel ® FTN, Tixogel ® FTN 1564, Tixogel ® IPM, Tixogel ® LAN, Tixogel ® LAN 1563 from the company BYK Additives Inc; - a hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite) such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by the company Elementis Specialities; - a hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil such as the commercial products sold under the name Bentone® Gel DOA V, Bentone® Gel EUG V, Bentone® Gel IHD V, Bentone® Gel ISD V, Bentone® Gel MIO V® Bentone® Gel PTM V®, Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V, Bentone® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities; the commercial products sold under the name Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS, Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID by the company Créations Couleurs; the commercial products sold under the name NS GEL DM1®, NS GEL PTIS®, NS MGEL 1152® by the company Next Step Laboratories Stop.

[0293] Preferably, the lipophilic thickener may be present in the composition at concentrations ranging, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0294] COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

[0295] The invention also relates to a method for treating human keratin materials, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.

[0296] Thus, the composition used according to the invention may be a care and / or makeup composition for keratin materials such as the skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0297] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the skin such as foundations, blushers and eyeshadows.

[0298] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the lips such as a lipstick or a gloss.

[0299] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup product for the eye contour such as an eyeliner, eyelashes or eyebrows such as a mascara.

[0300] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

[0301] The composition according to the invention may also be part of a packaging set, or kit, comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition according to the invention as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0302] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may for example be in the form of a tube, a hot water bottle.

[0303] Such an applicator may be integral with a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a position for closing said container and an application position, in particular for makeup.

[0304] Alternatively, such an applicator may be irreversibly mounted on said container.

[0305] It is further indicated that the compositions according to the invention more particularly comprise a cosmetically (or physiologically) acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort, that is to say tingling, tightness, redness, likely to discourage the user from applying such compositions.

[0306] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0307] The expressions “between... and...” and “ranging from... to...” must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0308] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0309] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0310] Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI.

[0311] EXAMPLES Holding measurement protocol

[0312] Conducting the test 1. The composition to be tested is applied using a BYK spreader referenced PA-5356 with a thickness of 25.4 pm on the white part of an ERICHSEN contrast card. referenced 0049.09.33 and the composition is left to dry for 40 minutes at 32°C in a dry oven. 2. Place three strips of Wypall (Kimberley Clark) 2 cm wide and 3 cm long on the deposit without overlapping: - the first strip is dry, - the second strip is soaked in distilled water (0.1ml) from the tap, - the third is soaked in olive oil (0.1ml). 3. Place the film puller weighted with a 2 kg weight on all the strips and move the assembly onto the film. 4. Finally, we observe the state of the deposit after passing the strips.

[0313] Rating of deposit degradation

[0314] [Tables 1] Note State of the deposit 5 Total or almost total elimination of the deposit on the tested area; the surface of the support appears in many places. 4 Partial elimination of the deposit on the tested area; the surface of the support appears in some places. 3 Slight elimination of the deposit leaving the support visible in a few places 2 No substantial variation in the color of the deposit (homogeneity, color) 1 No variation in the appearance of the deposit (homogeneity, color) Example 1

[0315] The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and the contents in mass percentages of which are gathered in the table below. In these examples, the holding properties of a foundation according to the invention, containing an unmodified hectorite type filler (composition 1) are compared with a foundation not containing any filler (composition A).

[0316] [Tables2] Ingredients Composition 1 (Invention) Composition A (Comparison) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystea rate / Sebacate (Isolan Gps GPS, Evonik) 2,50 2,50 A Eau 56,02 58,02 B Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050, Ec kart) 1,22 1,22 C Titanium Dioxide (And) Disodium Stearoyl G1 utamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-TA 0-77891, Miyoshi Kasei) 8,71 8,71 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutama te (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-C33-700 1-10, Miyoshi Kasei) 0,17 0,17 C Iron oxides (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide (NAI-C33-8001-10 , Miyoshi Kasei) 0,52 0,52 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutama te (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI-C33-900 1-10, Miyoshi Kasei) 1,60 1,60 C Hectorite (Bentone Hydroclay 2000 LO de Elementis) 2,00 - D Ethanol 5,00 5,00 E Total 100,00 100,00

[0317] 1. Préparation des compositions 1. Weigh together the constituents of phase A and divide their respective quantities into two equal parts in two beakers, one being the main beaker and the other an annex. 2. Homogenize each of the two beakers at room temperature by stirring with a Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating blade at 500 rpm. 3. In the main beaker, add the water very slowly, stirring with a Rayneri equipped with a stator rotor and gradually increasing the stirring speed from 800 to 1600 rpm. 4. Add the ingredients of phase C to the attached beaker, stirring with a Rayneri mixer fitted with a deflocculating blade at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized. 5. Then add the contents of the attached beaker to the main beaker, maintaining stirring at 1600 rpm until the mixture is completely homogenized. 6. Then add the filler while maintaining stirring at 1600 rpm, then the ethanol once the resulting mixture is homogeneous, still stirring. 7. Let it cool and place the composition in a jar with a lid. 2. Evaluation of compositions

[0318] Each composition is stable and applies easily in a homogeneous and comfortable deposit.

[0319] The table below brings together the results of the evaluations of the holding of the deposit according to the detailed protocol as described above:

[0320] [Tables3] Observations Composition 1 (Invention) Composition A (Comparative) Degradation of dry deposit 2 3 Degradation of water deposit 1 2 Degradation of olive oil deposit 2 3

[0321] The composition according to the invention has better resistance to dryness, water and oil than the comparative composition. Example 2

[0322] The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and the contents in mass percentages of which are collated in the table below. In these examples, the holding properties of a foundation according to the invention, containing an unmodified hectorite type filler (composition 1) are compared with a comparative foundation containing lauroyl lysine (composition B).

[0323] [Tables4] Ingredients Composition 1 (Invention) Composition B (Comparative) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystea rate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS, Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 56.02 56.02 B Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (Synafil S 1050, Ec kart) 1.22 1.22 C Titanium Dioxide (And) Disodium Stearoyl G1 utamate (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NALTA 0-77891, Miyoshi Kasei) 8.71 8.71 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutama te (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NALC33-700 1-10, Miyoshi Kasei) 0.17 0.17 C Iron oxides (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide (NALC33-8001-10 , Miyoshi Kasei) 0.52 0.52 C Iron Oxides (And) Disodium Stearoyl Glutama te (And) Aluminum Hydroxide (NALC33-900 1-10, Miyoshi Kasei) 1.60 1.60 C Hectorite (Bentone Hydroclay 2000 LO, Elementis) 2.00 - D Lauroyl lysine (Amihope LL, Ajinomoto) - 2.00 D Ethanol 5.00 5.00 E Total 100.00 100.00

[0324] 1. Preparation of the compositions

[0325] The compositions are prepared as detailed in Example 1. 2. Evaluation of compositions

[0326] Each composition is stable and applies easily in a homogeneous and comfortable deposit.

[0327] The table below brings together the results of the evaluations of the holding of the deposit according to the detailed protocol as described above:

[0328] [Tables5] Observations Composition 1 (Invention) Composition B (Comparative) Degradation of the dry deposit 2 4 Degradation of the water deposit 1 2 Degradation of the olive oil deposit 2 4

[0329] The composition according to the invention has better resistance to dryness, water and oil than the comparative composition. Example 3

[0330] The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and the contents in mass percentages of which are collated in the table below. In these examples, the staying power properties of a lipstick according to the invention, containing an unmodified hectorite type filler (composition 2) are compared with a comparative lipstick not containing any filler (composition C).

[0331] [Tableauxô] Ingredients Composition 2 (Invention) Composition C (Comparison) Phase Isododecane 17.33 17.33 A Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0.77 0.77 A Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon) 4.16 4.16 A Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystea rate / Sebacate (Isolan GPS, Evonik) 2.50 2.50 A Water 58.24 58.24 B Red 7 5.25 5.25 C Mica (Mearlmica SV, Sun Chemical) 1.75 1.75 C Hectorite (Bentone Hydroclay 2000 LO, Elem entis) 5.00 - D Lauroyl lysine (Amihope LL, Ajinomoto) - 5.00 D Ethanol 5.00 5.00 E Total 100.00 10.00

[0332] 1. Preparation of the compositions 1. Weigh together the constituents of phase A by dividing their respective quantity into two equal parts in two beakers, one being the main beaker and the other an annex. 2. Homogenize each of the two beakers at room temperature by stirring with a Rayneri equipped with a deflocculating blade for 3 minutes at 500 rpm. 3. In the main beaker, add the water very slowly, stirring with a Rayneri equipped with a stator rotor and gradually increasing the stirring speed from 800 to 1600 rpm. 4. Add the ingredients of phase C to the attached beaker, stirring with a Rayneri mixer fitted with a deflocculating blade at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized. 5. Then add the contents of the attached beaker to the main beaker, maintaining stirring at 1600 rpm until the mixture is completely homogenized. 6. Add the filler, stirring at 1600 rpm until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, then the ethanol, stirring at 1600 rpm. 7. Allow to cool and place the composition in a jar. 2. Evaluation of compositions

[0333] Each composition is stable and applies easily in a homogeneous and comfortable deposit.

[0334] The table below brings together the results of the evaluations of the holding of the deposit according to the detailed protocol as described above:

[0335] [Tables?] Observations Composition 2 (Invention) Composition C (Comparative) Degradation of dry deposit 2 3 Degradation of water deposit 1 2 Degradation of olive oil deposit 2 4

[0336] The composition according to the invention has better resistance to dryness, water and oil than the comparative composition.

Claims

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition, preferably for making up human keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty monoacid, - at least one volatile solvent, - optionally at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, - at least one unmodified hectorite type filler.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully random addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; said polyglycerols corresponding to the formula (I) H[-O-Gly]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or wholly non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case based on the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case based on the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the polyester A) is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily solution comprising: a) a polyester obtained by reaction: (i) Polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture more particularly having as INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oily solution contains the polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of Polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester content, expressed as active material, represents from 2 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile solvent is chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more particularly 2 to 4 carbon atoms, volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, more particularly ethanol, volatile hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from apolar volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from branched C8-C16 alkanes, linear C8-C14 alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably among isododecane, undecane, tridecane, alone or in mixtures.

16. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the monoalcohol content represents from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 3 to 35% by weight, and more particularly from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to any one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that the content of volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon-based, represents from 1 to 75% by weight, preferably from 5 to 60% by weight, and even more particularly from 10 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the aforementioned polyester, is chosen from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, as well as their mixtures, preferably polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and in particular chosen from fatty alcohols, esters, and their mixtures.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from octyldodecanol, vegetable oils, ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof; and preferably from octyldodecanol, fatty acid triglycerides containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as in particular Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (INCI name), vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof.

20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s), if the composition comprises any, varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a content of unmodified hectorite, of between 0.5 and 15% by weight, preferably of 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content represents at least 15% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 20 and 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in the form of an emulsion whose continuous phase is the oily phase.

24. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that the water content represents less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, even more preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably the composition is free of it.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

27. ​​Process for treating human keratin materials, preferably makeup, in particular the skin and / or lips, in which the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied.