Process for bleaching keratin fibers comprising the application of a bleaching composition and the application of a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and free of peroxygenated salt.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising sequentially: a) applying to said keratin fibers at least one composition C comprising: i) at least one alkaline agent AA1; ii) at least one peroxygenated salt S1; and iii) hydrogen peroxide; and b) applying to said keratin fibers at least one composition F comprising: i) hydrogen peroxide; ii) optionally at least one alkaline agent AA2; and wherein composition F is devoid of peroxygenated salt, it being understood that step a) may be followed by step b) or step a) may be preceded by step b), preferably step a) is followed by step b).

Description

Title of the invention: A process for bleaching keratin fibers comprising the application of a bleaching composition and the application of a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and devoid of peroxygenated salt.

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising the application of a specific bleaching composition and the application of a composition comprising hydrogen peroxide and free of peroxygenated salts. Technical field

[0002] In the field of hair lightening, the tone level is generally used to characterize the degree or level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, with one tone separating each shade from the one immediately preceding or following it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairdressing professionals and are published in the book "Sciences des traitements cheveux" by Charles ZVIAK, 1988, Ed. Masson, pp. 215 and 278.

[0003] The tone heights range from 1 (black) to 10 (light blonde), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

[0004] Lightening thus makes it possible to bring a tone height lighter than the initial natural tone height of the hair.

[0005] The processes used to lighten hair generally consist of using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases.

[0006] The role of this oxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin in the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the hair fibers. Thus, for relatively slight lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, particularly lightening of at least 5 shades, peroxide salts, such as persulfates, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. These peroxide salts are contained in compositions which, at the time of use, are mixed with an aqueous composition containing hydrogen peroxide. However, the lightening obtained by such a combination is not always satisfactory because it results in hair with unattractive yellow / orange tones, which complicates subsequent coloring by limiting it to achieving warm tones.

[0007] In order to adjust the pH of the compositions to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent, an alkaline agent is used. This alkaline agent also causes swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent into the fiber, and thus increases the efficiency of the reaction.

[0008] However, the use of alkaline agents and peroxygenated salts can lead to a deterioration in hair quality. The main causes of this deterioration are a decrease in cosmetic properties, such as shine, and a degradation of mechanical properties, particularly a reduction in mechanical strength, which can also result in increased porosity. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as blow-drying.

[0009] Lightening dark hair is particularly delicate because it requires the use of a large amount of peroxygenated salts if one wishes to lighten them strongly, and / or increasing the application time of bleaching compositions on the hair, which can weaken them.

[0010] Furthermore, this process does not necessarily provide optimal lightening as well as good neutralization of yellow and / or orange reflections.

[0011] Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to propose a bleaching process for keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, which does not have the disadvantages mentioned above, that is to say, which allows for effective lightening of keratin fibers, in particular dark keratin fibers, with better neutralization of yellow and / or orange tints without altering the cosmetic and / or mechanical properties of the hair. Description of the invention

[0012] The present invention relates to a method for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising, sequentially:

[0013] a) the application to said keratin fibers of at least one composition C comprising:

[0014] i) at least one alkaline AAI agent;

[0015] ii) at least one peroxygenated salt SI; and

[0016] iii) hydrogen peroxide; and

[0017] b) the application to said keratin fibers of at least one composition F comprising:

[0018] i) hydrogen peroxide;

[0019] ii) optionally at least one AA2 alkali agent, and

[0020] in which composition F is devoid of peroxygenated salt,

[0021] it being understood that step a) may be followed by step b) or step a) may be preceded by step b), preferably step a) is followed by step b).

[0022] The process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain an improved lightening of the keratin fibers as well as an improved neutralization of the yellow and / or orange reflections of said fibers.

[0023] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0024] The expression "at least one" means one or more.

[0025] Unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0026] By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the bounds are not included.

[0027] For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" means in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferably hair.

[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. For the purposes of this invention, "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen. Hydrogen peroxide

[0029] As previously stated, composition C and composition F comprise hydrogen peroxide.

[0030] Advantageously, the total hydrogen peroxide content in composition C ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0031] Advantageously, the total hydrogen peroxide content ii) in composition F ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. Alkaline agent

[0032] As previously stated, composition C comprises at least one alkali agent AAI and composition F may optionally comprise at least one alkali agent AA2.

[0033] Preferably composition F comprises at least one alkali agent AA2.

[0034] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) AAI and AA2, identical or different, can be chosen independently of each other from organic alkali agents and inorganic alkali agents.

[0035] Advantageously, the organic alkali metal(s) are chosen from among organic amines whose pKb at 25°C is less than 12, and more preferably less than 10, and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity functional group. Furthermore, the organic amines do not include a fatty, alkyl, or alkenyl chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.

[0036] The organic alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1 to C4.

[0037] By alkanolamine, we mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in C1 to C8 bearing one or more hydroxy radicals.

[0038] Alkanolamines selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, and tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention. Among the alkanolamines, monoethanolamine is particularly preferred.

[0039] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole may be mentioned.

[0040] The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine function. As examples of amines of this type usable in the present invention, we can mention in particular creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)-ethane-l-sulfonic acid.

[0041] Among the inorganic alkali agents that can be used in the process according to the invention, mineral hydroxides can be mentioned.

[0042] Mineral hydroxides can be selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, transition metal hydroxides, and ammonium hydroxides. Examples of mineral hydroxides include ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide, manganese hydroxide, and zinc hydroxide.

[0043] Among mineral hydroxides, ammonium hydroxide, also called ammonia, is preferred.

[0044] The inorganic alkali agent(s) may also be selected from urea, ammonium salts such as ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate or ammonium nitrate, (meta)silicates, phosphates, (bi)carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, such as lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium, barium, and mixtures thereof, preferably from (bi)carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in particular magnesium carbonates, more particularly magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and (meta)silicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in particular (meta)silicates of alkali metals, especially sodium (meta)silicate.

[0045] Advantageously, the alkali agent(s) AAI and AA2, identical or different, are chosen independently of each other from ammonium salts, such as ammonium chloride, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, alkanolamines, compounds with a guanidine function, ammonium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates such as sodium (meta)silicate and alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates such as magnesium carbonate hydroxide, ammonium salts such as ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0046] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C comprises one or more alkali metal silicates selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, in particular alkali metal (meta)silicates, preferably sodium (meta)silicate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, in particular magnesium carbonates, preferably magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Advantageously, the total content of alkali agent(s) AAI ranges from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0048] According to a preferred embodiment, composition F comprises one or more alkali agents AA2 selected from alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the AA2 alkali agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkali metal (meta)silicates, in particular sodium or alkaline earth (meta)silicate, ammonium salts, in particular ammonium bicarbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Advantageously, according to this preferred embodiment, composition F comprises a mixture of sodium (meta)silicate and ammonium bicarbonate.

[0051] According to another particularly preferred embodiment, the alkali agent(s) AA2 are selected from alkali or alkaline-earth metal (meta)silicates, in particular sodium (meta)silicate, ammonium salts, in particular ammonium bicarbonate, alkali or alkaline-earth metal carbonates, in particular magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkali or alkaline-earth metal (meta)silicates, in particular sodium (meta)silicate, alkali or alkaline-earth metal (bi)carbonates, particularly magnesium carbonate, and more particularly magnesium carbonate hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Advantageously, according to this preferred embodiment, composition F comprises a mixture of sodium (meta)silicate and magnesium carbonate hydroxide.

[0053] Advantageously, the total content of AA2 alkali agent(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 55%, more preferably from 3% to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, and better still from 10% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. Peroxygenated salt

[0054] As previously stated, composition C comprises at least one peroxygenated salt SI.

[0055] Preferably, the peroxygenated salts SI are chosen from among persulfates; perborates; peracids and / or their salts; alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium percarbonates; magnesium peroxide; and mixtures thereof.

[0056] More preferably, the peroxygenated salt(s) SI are chosen from among the persulfates.

[0057] Persulfates, also called peroxysulfates, correspond, in the sense of the invention, to the anions SO52 (peroxomonosulfate anion) or S2O82 (peroxodisulfate anion) or to compounds comprising at least one of these anions. Preferably, the persulfates according to the invention are chosen from among the peroxodisulfates.

[0058] Advantageously, the peroxygenated salt(s) SI are chosen from among the persulfates, preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, better from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate and mixtures thereof.

[0059] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C comprises a mixture of ammonium persulfate and potassium persulfate.

[0060] Advantageously, the total content of peroxygenated salt(s) SI ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35%, even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0061] Advantageously, the total content of persulfate(s) SI ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35%, even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0062] As previously stated, composition F is free of peroxygenated salt.

[0063] By the expression "composition free of peroxygenated salt" in the context of the present invention, it is understood that said composition comprises less than 0.5% by weight of peroxygenated salt relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably does not comprise any peroxygenated salt (0% by weight). Fatty body

[0064] Composition C and / or composition F may further comprise at least one fat.

[0065] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one fatty substance.

[0066] Preferably, composition F comprises at least one fatty substance.

[0067] By "fats and oils," we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fats and oils are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, and carbon tetrachloride. ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petroleum jelly (or mineral oil) or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0068] Advantageously, the fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0069] Fatty substances according to the invention are different from fatty acids and their salts.

[0070] Preferably the useful fatty substances according to the invention are non-siliconized.

[0071] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0072] The fats used according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point of 25°C or lower at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). Solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0073] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0074] More particularly, the liquid fat(s) according to the invention are chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to C16, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] It is recalled that alcohols and fatty esters more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0076] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to Cl6 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0077] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petroleum jelly oils (INCI name ore oil or paraffinum liquidum), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0079] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0081] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, we may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0083] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0084] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof will be used.

[0086] Still within the framework of this variant, one can also use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26.

[0087] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0088] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0089] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0090] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0091] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0092] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0093] More particularly, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] One can cite as an example the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0095] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0096] The silicone oils usable in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, modified or not by organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity of 5.106 at 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, and preferably 1.105 at 1 m2 / s.

[0097] Preferably, silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0098] These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicone oils usable according to the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, for example chosen from among the amine groups and the alkoxy groups.

[0099] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academy Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0100] When volatile, silicone oils are particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0101] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7, preferably 4 with 5 silicon atoms. This includes, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

[0102] We can also mention cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

[0103] We can also mention mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimed thylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

[0104] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and exhibiting a viscosity less than or equal to 5 x 10⁻⁶ m² / s at 25°C. This includes, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane, marketed notably under the name "SH 200" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 1976, pp. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

[0105] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.

[0106] These silicone oils are more particularly selected from among the polydialkylsiloxanes, among which the main examples are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

[0107] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products may be cited by way of non-limiting example: - SILBIONE® oils from series 47 and 70 047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000; - the MIRASIL® series oils marketed by the company RHODIA; - oils from the 200 series of DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

[0108] We can also mention polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 series from the RHODIA company.

[0109] Organomodified silicones usable according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group.

[0110] With regard to liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group, they may in particular be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes functionalized by the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

[0111] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2 m2 / s at 25°C.

[0112] Examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following names:

[0113] - SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series of RHODIA;

[0114] - the oils of the RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA;

[0115] - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

[0116] - silicones from the PK series of BAYER such as product PK20;

[0117] - BAYER's PN and PH series silicones such as PN1000 products and PH1000;

[0118] - certain oils from the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

[0119] Among organomodified silicones, we can mention polyorganosiloxanes comprising: - substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products marketed under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by GENESEE or the products marketed under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by DOW CORNING. The substituted amine groups are in particular aminoalkyl groups in Cl to C4;

[0120] - alkoxylated groups,

[0121] - hydroxyl groups.

[0122] The solid fats according to the invention preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s*.

[0123] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

[0124] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0125] Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0126] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0127] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0128] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

[0129] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

[0130] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0131] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0132] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0134] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0135] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0136] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0137] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Mi crowax hw.

[0138] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0139] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in the C8 to C32 range. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0140] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0141] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0142] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0143] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petrolatum, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, Lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0144] Preferably, the waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and mixtures thereof.

[0145] Preferably, the waxes are chosen from polyethylene waxes, preferably from polyethylene waxes with a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 50°C, preferably greater than or equal to 70°C, better greater than or equal to 80°C, preferably, ranging from 85 to 150°C, better from 90 to 120°C.

[0146] Among the usable polyethylene waxes, we can mention in particular that marketed under the name of CIRE POLYETHYLENE AC 1702 by the company HONEYWELL, those marketed under the names PERFORMALENE® 500-L POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 400 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® 655 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMALENE® SCRUB BEADS, PERFORMALENE® SE / 2 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 725 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 850 POLYETHYLENE, POLYWAX® 1000 POLYETHYLENE, PERFORMA SW 100 SYNTHETIC WAX by the company NUCERA SOLUTIONS.

[0147] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0148] The ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably conform to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:

[0149] RI designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in the C16-C30 position;

[0150] R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;

[0151] R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more Cl-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in C16-C30.

[0152] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear group saturated with Cl5.

[0153] Preferably, ceramides are used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0154] Compounds can also be used in which RI designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0155] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine; 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol; N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine; N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine; N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine; N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine; N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine; cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide; and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine should be used.

[0156] Advantageously, composition C comprises at least one liquid fat, preferably selected from mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin or petrolatum oils, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty esters, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0157] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and / or composition F comprises (include) at least one mineral oil, in particular selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin or petroleum jelly oils.

[0158] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, and mixtures thereof.

[0159] Advantageously, composition C and / or composition F comprises (include) at least one solid fat, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from solid fatty alcohols such as cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0160] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and / or composition F comprises (include) at least one cetearyl alcohol.

[0161] Advantageously, composition C and / or composition F further comprises at least one fat, preferably selected from liquid fats, solid fats and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from mineral oils, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular paraffin or petrolatum oil, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof

[0162] Preferably, composition C and / or composition F comprises(s) at least one liquid fat and at least one solid fat. Preferably, the liquid fat is selected from mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, especially paraffin or petrolatum oil, and the solid fat is selected from solid fatty alcohols, in particular cetearyl alcohol.

[0163] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and / or composition F comprises (include) a mixture of mineral oil, in particular paraffin oil or petrolatum, and cetearyl alcohol.

[0164] Advantageously, the total content of the fat or fats, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 8 to 20% by weight, better from 10 to 15% by weight, better still from 11 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0165] Preferably, the total content of the liquid fat(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better from 8 to 14% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0166] Advantageously, the total content of the solid fat(s) when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0167] Advantageously, the total content of the fat or fats, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 8 to 20% by weight, better from 10 to 15% by weight, better still from 11 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

[0168] Preferably, the total content of the liquid fat(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better from 8 to 14% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

[0169] Advantageously, the total content of the solid fat(s) when present in composition F ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. Surfactant

[0170] Composition C and / or composition F may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably selected from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

[0171] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one surfactant.

[0172] Preferably, composition F comprises at least one surfactant.

[0173] Anionic surfactant

[0174] Anionic surfactants can be selected from sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can obviously be used.

[0175] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

[0176] Preferably, composition F comprises at least one anionic surfactant.

[0177] It is understood in this description that:

[0178] - anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one function carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ), and may possibly also include one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0179] - anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally include one or more additional sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function; and

[0180] - anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

[0181] The anionic carboxylate surfactants that may be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).

[0182] They may be selected from the following compounds: fatty acids, acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C3O aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably having from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0183] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and their salts, may also be used.

[0184] Preferably, the anionic carboxylate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0185] - fatty acids;

[0186] - acylglutamates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C2o, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

[0187] - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24 or even Ci2-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

[0188] - acyllactylates, particularly in the C12-C2s or even C14-C24 ranges, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

[0189] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular Ci2-C2o; - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(Ci2-C2o)ethercarboxylates;

[0190] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0191] in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

[0192] Among the carboxylic surfactants above, fatty acid type surfactants, particularly C6-C30, can be mentioned in particular.

[0193] Among the fatty acids, we can mention lauric, palmitic, myristic, stearic, oleic, behenic acids.

[0194] The fatty acids are advantageously selected from palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0195] Among the carboxylic surfactants mentioned above, sarcosinate-type surfactants are particularly noteworthy. Among the alkyl(C6-C3o)sarcosinates, palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, and cocoylsarcosinates, in acid or sal form, are examples.

[0196] The anionic surfactant(s) of the sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroylsarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof.

[0197] Among carboxylic surfactants, we can also mention polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.

[0198] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used have at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).

[0199] They may be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as salts of these compounds;

[0200] the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group;

[0201] these compounds being polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0202] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are selected from, alone or in mixtures:

[0203] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C2O, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.

[0204] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular Ci2-C20;

[0205] - N-acyltaurates in C6-C24, in particular in Ci2-C20>

[0206] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates, in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.

[0207] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of the sulfonate type are chosen from among the N-acyltaurates, and in particular the N-acyl N-methyltaurates, the acylisethionates, as well as their salts and mixtures.

[0208] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of the sulfonate type are chosen from among the acylisethionates, as well as their salts and mixtures.

[0209] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts, the salts ammonium, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

[0210] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0211] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.

[0212] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:

[0213] - C6-C30 fatty acids, in particular C8-C24;

[0214] - alkyl sulfates in C6-C24, preferably in Ci0-C22, in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0215] - alkyl ethersulfates in C6-C24, preferably in Ci0-C22, in particular in Ci2-C20; preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs;

[0216] - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, particularly C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;

[0217] - C6-C24 alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, in particular Ci2-C20;

[0218] - N-acyltaurates in C6-C24, in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0219] - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;

[0220] - C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates;

[0221] - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, preferably alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylate s;

[0222] - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24)(amido)ethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

[0223] - acylglutamates in C6-C24, in particular in Ci2-C20;

[0224] - C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular Ci2-C20;

[0225] - as well as their salts, in particular their alkali or alkaline earth metal salts or zinc, ammonium, or amino alcohol;

[0226] - and their mixtures.

[0227] Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s), when present in composition C and / or in composition F, are chosen from C6-C3o fatty acids, in particular C8-C24, C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, preferably C10-C22, in particular C12-C20, and mixtures thereof, said compounds being preferably in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, in particular sodium salt.

[0228] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and / or composition F comprises a mixture of sodium stearate, sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium cetearyl sulfate, said compound being a mixture of sodium stearyl sulfate and sodium cetyl sulfate.

[0229] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0230] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.001 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 35% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better from 1 to 25% relative to the total weight of composition F.

[0231] Non-ionic surfactant

[0232] Composition C and / or composition F may further comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants.

[0233] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0234] Preferably, composition F comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0235] The non-ionic surfactant(s) usable in the invention are in particular described for example in "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

[0236] By way of examples of nonionic surfactants, these may optionally be selected from among oxyalkyl(C8-C24)phenols, oxyalkylated or glycerolated C8-C40 alcohols, oxyalkylated or glycerolated C8-C30 fatty acid amides, esters of C8-C30 acids and polyethylene glycols, esters of C8-C30 acids and sorbitol, esters of fatty acids and sucrose, alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, esters of alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, derivatives of A-alkyl(C8-C30)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C30)-methylglucamine, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

[0237] In particular, the following compounds may be cited, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl(C8-C24)oxyalkylened phenols;

[0238] - C8 to C40 alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains; distinct from the fatty alcohols described previously;

[0239] - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols; - esters of C8 to C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxygenated;

[0240] - fatty acid and sucrose esters,

[0241] - alkyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, alkenyl(C8-C30)(poly)glucosides, possibly oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylated motifs) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl (C8-C30)(poly)glucoside esters,

[0242] - oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or unsaturated;

[0243] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensates;

[0244] - A-alkyl(C8-C3o)glucamine and A-acyl(C8-C3o)-methylglucamine derivatives;

[0245] - amine oxides.

[0246] They are chosen, in particular, from fatty alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30. Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants are in particular C8-C30 fatty alcohols, preferably C8-C24, oxyalkylated, preferably ethoxylated, comprising from 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0247] We can also mention ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4, ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

[0248] Esters (in particular mono-, di-, tri-esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and of sorbitan may be selected from: Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

[0249] Polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid (preferably Ci2-Ci8) and sorbitan esters (in particular mono-, di-, and tri-esters) having, in particular, 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide may be selected from Ci2-Ci8 fatty acid esters, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic, sorbitan (poly)oxyethylenated acid having in particular 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0250] Non-ionic surfactants can also be chosen from oxygenated vegetable oils.

[0251] Examples of oxyethylenated vegetable oils include, in particular: sesame, castor, soybean, coffee, safflower, borage, sunflower, olive, apricot kernel, argan, camellia, bambara pea, avocado, mango, rice bran, cottonseed, rosehip, kiwi seed, sea buckthorn pulp, blueberry seed, flaxseed, walnut, poppy, orange seed, sweet almond, palm, coconut, vernonia, marjoram, baobab, rapeseed, ximenia, pracaxi, jojoba oil, and shea oil, comprising from 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxides, preferably from 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide, better 10 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, even better 20 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0252] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants of the oxyethylenated vegetable oil type are selected from oxyethylenated castor oils, more preferably oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils, and in particular oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils with INCI names: PEG-25 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-45 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-65 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-200 Hydrogenated castor oil, and their mixtures.

[0253] Non-ionic surfactants can also be selected from alkyl(poly)glycoside (or APG) type non-ionic surfactants, also called alkyl(poly)glycoside non-ionic surfactants.

[0254] By "alky(poly)glycoside" is meant an alkylpolyglycoside or an alkylmonoglycoside, also called alkylglycoside in this application, the alkyl group of which comprises between 6 and 30 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 24 carbon atoms, and which may optionally be alkoxylated by one or more alkylene oxide groups, preferably at C2 to C4.

[0255] The non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) are preferably selected from the following compounds of formula (III) and mixtures thereof: R^-^O^GX (III) formula (III), wherein:

[0256] - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl group whose linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0257] - R2 represents an alkylene group comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0258] - G represents a saccharidic motif comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0259] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, and

[0260] - v denotes a value from 1 to 15.

[0261] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside type nonionic surfactant(s) are selected, alone or in mixture, from compounds of formula (III) in which:

[0262] - Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group, comprising 8 with 18 carbon atoms,

[0263] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, and preferably glucose,

[0264] -1 denotes a value from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and

[0265] - R2 and v are as defined previously.

[0266] The degree of polymerization of the non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s), as represented for example by the index v in formula (III) above, varies on average from 1 to 15, and preferably from 1 to 4. This degree of polymerization varies more particularly from 1 to 2, and even better from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.

[0267] The glycosidic bonds between the saccharidic motifs are in 1,6 or in 1,4; and preferably in 1,4.

[0268] The non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycosides surfactants that can be used in the present invention are preferably alkyl(poly)glucosides, in particular represented by the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN ® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000). You can also use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG 110 (or ORAMIX CG 110) and TRITON CG 312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10), the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or those sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK, or the products sold by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names TEGO CARE CG 90 or TEGO CARE CG 90 MB.

[0269] The nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s), which may be present in composition C and / or composition F, are preferably selected from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the nonionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant(s) are selected from caprylyl / capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and mixtures thereof. Even more Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type is coco glucoside.

[0270] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are selected from oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising 1 to 250 moles of ethylene oxide, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising 1 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid and sorbitan esters having 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, and mixtures thereof.

[0271] More preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 250 moles, better from 1 to 200, even better from 10 to 150, always better from 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide.

[0272] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and / or composition F comprises (include) hydrogenated oxyethylenated castor oil, INCI name PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil.

[0273] Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.2% to 2.4% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0274] Advantageously, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.2% to 2.4% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4% to 0.7% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

[0275] Advantageously, the surfactant(s) are selected from oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 250 moles, better from 1 to 200, even better from 10 to 150, always better from 20 to 100, moles of ethylene oxide, in particular oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil, such as oxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oil of INCI name PEG-40 Hydrogenated castor oil, alkyl sulfates, such as sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium cetearyl sulfate, C12-C20 fatty acid salts, in particular sodium stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0276] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and / or composition F comprises (include) a mixture of hydrogenated oxyethylenated castor oil of INCI name PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium stearate and sodium cetearyl sulfate.

[0277] Advantageously, the total surfactant content, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.75 to 8% by weight, better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0278] Advantageously, the total surfactant content, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight, even more preferably from 0.75 to 30% by weight, better from 1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. Amino acid type compound

[0279] Composition C and / or composition F may further comprise at least one amino acid compound other than the surfactants previously mentioned.

[0280] For the purposes of this invention, an amino acid compound is defined as an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and / or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being able to be intra-cyclic, possibly in the form of a salt.

[0281] Preferably, the amino acid compound(s) are chosen from amino acid compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (i.e., not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and / or their salts. These compounds are also called carboxylic amino acid compounds and are particularly preferred.

[0282] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amino acid type compound selected from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and / or their salts.

[0283] Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to the formula (I): COOH (I) H....... C ........N(H), R in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that: - when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (Cl-C4)alkyl; - when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cl-C12)alkyl group, preferably (Cl-C4)alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or possibly substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0284] Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 links, this cycle not being substituted.

[0285] Preferably, p=2.

[0286] Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated (Cl-C4)alkyl group, optionally interrupted by an -S- heteroatom and / or optionally substituted by one or two groups selected from hydroxyl, amino or -NH-C(NH)-NH2.

[0287] Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

[0288] Amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of compound of formula (I).

[0289] These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium, calcium and zinc salts.

[0290] Amino acid type compounds may be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL ​​configuration, preferably of L configuration.

[0291] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine may be cited.

[0292] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and their mixtures.

[0293] Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0294] Even better, the amino acid-type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or zinc) and mixtures thereof.

[0295] Examples of glycine salts according to the present invention include sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

[0296] The particularly preferred amino acid-type compound is glycine.

[0297] Advantageously, the total content of amino acid type compound(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0298] More advantageously, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s), when present in composition C, is preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0299] Even more advantageously, the total glycine content, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0300] Advantageously, the total content of amino acid type compound(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

[0301] More advantageously, the total content of amino carboxylic acid type compound(s), when present in composition F, is preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

[0302] Even more advantageously, the total glycine content, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

[0303] Derivative of zwitterionic amino acids bearing a quaternary ammonium group

[0304] Composition C and / or composition F may further comprise at least one zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising in total from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, better from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, better still from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0305] Preferably, zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising a total of 1 to 12 carbon atoms are selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, dimethylsulfoniopropionate and mixtures thereof, preferably trimethylglycine (also referred to herein as glycine betaine or "betaine").

[0306] Advantageously, the total content of zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing an ammonium group, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0307] Even more advantageously, the total trimethylglycine content, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0308] Advantageously, the total content of zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing an ammonium group, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

[0309] Even more advantageously, the total trimethylglycine content, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. (Poly)carboxylic acid

[0310] Composition C and / or composition F may further comprise at least one (poly)carboxylic acid, other than the amino acid type compound(s), fatty acids and surfactants previously described, their salts or mixtures thereof.

[0311] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) is / are chosen from the (poly)carboxylic acid(s) of the following formula (II):

[0312] Formula (II) wherein:

[0313] - n is an integer between 0 and 10, better between 1 and 5, even better between 1 and 3, preferably n=1 or 2, preferably n=2;

[0314] - A is a monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n=0) or a multivalent hydrocarbon group (when n is different from 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups.

[0315] Preferably, A is a monovalent or multivalent (Cl-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.

[0316] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids of formula (II) are alpha-hydroxy acids, for which A is a (Cl-C6)alkylene group, better (C2-C4)alkylene, or phenylene, substituted by 1 or 2 hydroxy groups, preferably 1 hydroxy group; and n = 0 to 2.

[0317] In particular, cite carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:

[0318] - n=0 and A is a monovalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, in particular (C2-C4)alkyl, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy (OH) groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH;

[0319] - n=0 and A is a phenyl radical substituted by 1 OH radical; or

[0320] - n = 1 or 2, and A is a di- or trivalent (Cl-C6)alkyl group, better (C2-C4)alkyl, substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, in particular 1 or 2 OH, preferably 1 OH.

[0321] Preferably, the (poly)carboxylic acids may be selected from:

[0322] - citric acid (n=2 and A trivalent = -CH2-CHOH-CH2- ) ;

[0323] - salicylic acid (n=0 and A = phenyl substituted by an OH);

[0324] - lactic acid (n=0 and monovalent A = -CH(OH)CH3); and

[0325] - tartaric acid (n=l and A divalent = -CH(OH)-CH(OH)-).

[0326] The particularly preferred (poly)carboxylic acid is citric acid.

[0327] Advantageously, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0328] In particular, the total citric acid content, when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0329] Advantageously, the total content of (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

[0330] In particular, the total citric acid content, when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 6% by weight, better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. Thickening polymer

[0331] Composition C and / or composition F may further comprise at least one thickening polymer.

[0332] Preferably, composition C comprises at least one thickening polymer.

[0333] Preferably, composition F comprises at least one thickening polymer.

[0334] For the purposes of this invention, a thickening polymer is defined as a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol, at pH 7, or into an oil selected from petroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate, or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps (centipoise), in particular at least 200 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25 °C and at a shear rate of ls*. This viscosity can be measured using a cone-plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

[0335] The thickening polymers according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. A mixture of several thickening polymers may also be used. They may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric thickening polymers and mixtures thereof.

[0336] Thickening polymers can be selected from thickening acrylic polymers and thickening polysaccharides.

[0337] For the purposes of this invention, acrylic polymer means a polymer resulting from a polymerization reaction involving one or more structural monomer(s): r 3 h2c=c<^ x cor4

[0338] with R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,

[0339] and R4 designating a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, an NR5R6 radical or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkoxy radical, said radicals possibly being substituted by one or more OH and / or quaternary ammonium radical;

[0340] R5 and R6 designating independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched, in C1-C30 possibly oxyalkylated, possibly comprising a sulfonic group.

[0341] Preferably R3 designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.

[0342] Acrylic thickening polymers that may be used in the present inventions can be chosen from:

[0343] (a) associative (meth)acrylic polymers;

[0344] (b) crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymers and crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C1-C6 alkyl acrylate;

[0345] (c) non-ionic homo- and copolymers containing unsaturated monomers ethylenic of ester and / or amide type;

[0346] (d) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and acrylate copolymers of ammonium and acrylamide.

[0347] By "associative thickening polymer", according to the invention, an amphiphilic thickening polymer comprising both hydrophilic and hydrophobic motifs, in particular comprising at least one C8 C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic motif.

[0348] (a) The associative (meth)acrylic thickening polymers according to the invention may be non-ionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.

[0349] Preferably, the non-ionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention are selected from:

[0350] - copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl (meth)acrylates and monomers amphiphiles comprising at least one fatty chain (e.g., oxyethylenated alkyl (C8-C22) acrylates) such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl methacrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208; and

[0351] - copolymers of hydrophilic (meth)acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example alkyl (C8-C22) (meth)acrylates) such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

[0352] The anionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention can be selected from those comprising at least one hydrophilic motif of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic motif of the unsaturated carboxylic acid alkyl(C10-C30) ester type.

[0353] Among the above-mentioned polymers, particular preference is given to the products sold by GOODRICH under the trade names PEMULEN TRI®, PEMULEN TR2®, CARBOPOL 1382®, and even more preferentially to PEMULEN TRI®, the product sold by LUBRIZOL under the trade name CARBOPOL ETD 2020 POLYMER® (INCI name: ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) and the product sold by SEPC under the name COATEX SX®.

[0354] Among the anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, we can also mention copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturation carboxylic acid and oxyalkylated fatty alcohol.

[0355] Preferably, these compounds also comprise as a monomer an ester of α,[3-monoethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol.

[0356] Examples include ACULYN 22® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or ACULYN 28® sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® sold by Lubrizol.

[0357] As anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, we can also mention the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethylmetisopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated alcohol copolymer, notably marketed under the name VISCOPHOBE DB 1000 by the company AMERCHOL.

[0358] As anionic amphiphilic polymers with fatty chains, we can also mention those comprising at least one acrylic monomer with sulfonic group(s), in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

[0359] The cationic associative thickening polymers according to the present invention can be selected from polyacrylates with amine side groups.

[0360] Polyacrylates with amine side groups, quaternized or not, possess for example hydrophobic groups of the type steareth-20 (stearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide) or alkyl(C10-C30)PEG-20 itaconate.

[0361] Examples of polyacrylates with amine side chains include polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 or STRUCTURE PLUS from NATIONAL STARCH.

[0362] The amphoteric associative thickening polymers according to the invention can be selected from C10-C30 methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymers, the alkyl radical preferably being a stearyl radical.

[0363] (b) Among the cross-linked homopolymers of (meth)acrylic acid, mention may be made of products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company GOODRICH or products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA.

[0364] Among the crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and Cl-C6 alkyl acrylate, one can cite the product sold under the name VISCOATEX 538C by the company COATEX, which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion with 38% active ingredient, or the product sold under the name ACULYN 33 by the company ROHM & HAAS, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion with 28% active ingredient. Active. One can cite in particular the methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate crosslinked copolymer in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion manufactured and sold under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by the company NOVEON.

[0365] (c) Among non-ionic homopolymers or copolymers containing Examples of ethylenic unsaturation monomers of the ester and / or amide type include products sold under the names CYAN AMER P250 by CYTEC (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by US COSMETICS (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); ACRYLOID B 66 by RHOM & HAAS (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer); BPA 500 by KOBO (polymethyl methacrylate).

[0366] (d) Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers, mention may be made of the product sold under the name MICROSAP PAS 5193 by the company HOECHST.

[0367] Among the ammonium acrylate and acrylamide copolymers, we can mention the product sold under the name BOZEPOL C NEW or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company HOECHST.

[0368] Among the acrylic thickening polymers that can be used in the present invention, preferably one or more acrylic thickening polymers of family a) will be used, more preferably chosen from anionic (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers.

[0369] As previously stated, the thickening polymers according to the invention can be selected from thickening polysaccharides.

[0370] The thickening polysaccharides according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may be non-ionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic.

[0371] The basic units of the polysaccharides of the invention may be mono- or disaccharides. The motifs that may form part of the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose.

[0372] The following polymers, as well as their derivatives, may be cited in particular as thickening polysaccharides that could be used:

[0373] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose)

[0374] - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose)

[0375] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose)

[0376] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose)

[0377] - konjac gum (glucose and mannose polymer),

[0378] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer),

[0379] - cellulose (glucose polymer)

[0380] - starch (polymer of glucose)

[0381] - inulin (polymer of fructose and glucose).

[0382] These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. Physical treatments include temperature. Chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments lead to polymers that can be nonionic, cationic, or amphoteric.

[0383] Cellulose and cellulose derivatives can be cationic, amphoteric, or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters, and cellulose ether esters may be mentioned.

[0384] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, examples include alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl methylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses.

[0385] Among cationic cellulose ethers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses may be mentioned. The quaternizing agent may be, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example, Celquat L200 from NATIONAL STARCH). Another cationic cellulose ether is hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example, Ucare polymer JR 400 from AMERCHOL).

[0386] Thickening polysaccharides can be associative. Examples include celluloses or their derivatives, modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof where the alkyl groups are in C8-C22; non-ionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (alkyl in Cl6) sold by the company AQUALON; cationic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as QUATRISOFT LM 200, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B (C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by AMERCHOL, CRODACEL QM, CRODACEL QL (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS (Cl8 alkyl) sold by CRODA and SOFTCAT SL 100 sold by AMERCHOL; non-ionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as AMERCELL HM-1500 sold by AMERCHOL;non-ionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL. ;

[0387] Examples of associative thickening polysaccharides derived from guar include hydroxypropylguars modified by a fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified by an alkyl chain at C22) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified by an alkyl chain at C14) and the product RE 205-146 (modified by an alkyl chain at C20) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0388] Among thickening polysaccharides, non-ionic polysaccharides will preferably be used, in particular those chosen from celluloses and their derivatives, preferably from non-ionic cellulose ethers.

[0389] Preferably, the thickening polymers are chosen from, alone or in mixture, non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular chosen from celluloses and their derivatives, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose and anionic (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers.

[0390] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, composition C and / or composition F comprises (include) a mixture of hydroxyethylcellulose and Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylates crosspolymer.

[0391] Advantageously, the total content of thickening polymer(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.4 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0392] Advantageously, the total content of thickening polymer(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.4 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. Direct dye

[0393] Composition C and / or composition F may further comprise one or more direct colorant(s).

[0394] Preferably, composition F may comprise one or more direct dye(s).

[0395] Direct colorants can be synthetic or natural.

[0396] Synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those classically used in direct coloring, and among which we can mention all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, xanthenic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine and their mixtures.

[0397] Among the benzene nitro direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobe zene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethyl amino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-|3,y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-P-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene. ;

[0398] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0399] Among the direct hydrazono colorants, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.

[0400] Among the aryl nitrate direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-pheny lenediamine.

[0401] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50; tetrabromophenol blue.

[0402] Among the xanthenic dyes, we can mention: Acid Red 92; Acid Red 52.

[0403] Among the quinone direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, and the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0404] Among the direct azinic dyes, we can mention: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0405] Among the direct indamine dyes, we can mention: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

[0406] Natural direct colorants are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morine, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

[0407] Among the useful orthodiphenols according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.

[0408] Advantageously, the total content of direct colorant(s), when present in composition C, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

[0409] Advantageously, the total content of direct colorant(s), when present in composition F, ranges from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better from 0.1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F. Additive

[0410] Composition C and / or composition F may further comprise at least one additive, different from the compounds of the invention previously mentioned.

[0411] Within the framework of the present invention, the additive(s) may be chosen from polymers other than thickening polymers, in particular anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers or mixtures thereof, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, mineral thickening agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or hair regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, chelating agents, perfumes, preservatives. Process

[0412] The process for bleaching keratin fibers according to the invention, sequentially comprises a step (a) of applying at least one bleaching composition C as defined above and a step (b) of applying at least one composition F as defined above.

[0413] Thus, according to the invention, step (a) is carried out before step (b), or step (a) is carried out after step (b).

[0414] According to a preferred embodiment, step (a) is carried out before step (b).

[0415] According to another preferred embodiment, step (a) is carried out after step (b).

[0416] Furthermore, according to the invention, composition C is different from composition F.

[0417] According to a particular embodiment, step (b) is repeated at least once.

[0418] Preferably, in step (a), composition C is applied to a part of the hair, preferably in strands.

[0419] Preferably, during step (b), composition F is applied to all the hairs of the head.

[0420] The application to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, of composition C as defined above can be carried out on dry or wet hair, as well as on all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

[0421] The application of Composition C to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge, a hot water bottle, an applicator, a sponge or the fingers.

[0422] The application of composition C is preferably carried out between 25°C and 40°C.

[0423] Advantageously, the application of composition C is followed by a setting time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 15 to 35 minutes, more preferably from 20 to 30 minutes.

[0424] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a step of removing the composition at least partially from the keratin fibers between steps a) and b), i.e. at least partial removal of composition C before application of composition F, or at least partial removal of composition F before application of composition C according to the order of steps a) and b).

[0425] Preferably, composition C is at least partially removed from the keratin fibers before the application of composition F or composition F is at least partially removed from the keratin fibers before the application of composition C, said removal being carried out by scraping, rinsing or by application of a shampoo.

[0426] Preferably, composition C is removed at least partially from the keratin fibers before the application of composition F or composition F is removed at least partially from the keratin fibers before the application of composition C by scraping, preferably using a wooden spatula or the back of a comb, in particular by removing the residual product present on the strand, from the root to the tip thereof.

[0427] The application of composition C and the application of composition F to the keratin fibers are not simultaneous. In other words, the action of applying composition C and the action of applying composition F to the keratin fibers are not simultaneous.

[0428] However, according to a particular embodiment, when partial removal is carried out between steps a) and b) or when no removal is carried out between steps a) and b), compositions C and F may be present simultaneously on the keratin fibers.

[0429] According to another embodiment, when a rinsing step is carried out between steps a) and b), compositions C and F are not present simultaneously on the keratin fibers.

[0430] Advantageously, the bleaching process according to the invention includes a step consisting of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use a composition A comprising at least one alkaline agent AAI, at least one peroxygenated salt SI and a composition B comprising at least hydrogen peroxide to obtain composition C, then applying said composition C to the keratin fibers in step a).

[0431] According to a preferred embodiment, compositions A and B are preferably mixed less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, even more preferably less than 5 minutes before application.

[0432] The mass weight ratio between composition B and composition A is preferably from 0.1 to 10, more preferably from 0.2 to 5, even more preferably from 0.5 to 3, better from 1 to 2.

[0433] The total content of alkali agent(s) AAI in composition A is preferably from 1 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 55% by weight, even more preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, better from 30 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0434] The total content of peroxygenated salt(s) SI in composition A is preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, even more preferably from 40 to 60% by weight, better from 50 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0435] The total hydrogen peroxide content in composition B is preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, better from 8 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0436] Composition B is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 10% by weight of water, preferably more than 30% by weight of water, more preferably more than 50% by weight of water, more preferably still more than 60% by weight of water, better more than 65% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0437] Composition B further comprises preferably at least one fatty substance such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, in particular cetearyl alcohol, mineral oils, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular paraffin or petrolatum oils and mixtures thereof.

[0438] Advantageously, the total fat content, when present, ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35% by weight, even more preferably from 18 to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0439] The application to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers, such as hair, of composition F containing hydrogen peroxide and being free of peroxygenated salt, is carried out before or after the application of composition C and preferably after at least partial removal of composition C.

[0440] The application of composition F to keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, can be carried out by any classic method, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a sponge, a hot water bottle, an applicator, a sponge or fingers.

[0441] Advantageously, the application of composition F is followed by an exposure time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 15 to 35 minutes, more preferably from 20 to 30 minutes.

[0442] According to a particular embodiment, a rinsing step of the keratin fibers is carried out after the application of composition F, and possibly after placement.

[0443] The term "rinsing step" refers to the application of water to the keratin fibers.

[0444] More preferably, a rinsing step of the keratin fibers is carried out less than four hours after the application of composition F, more preferably even less than two hours after the application of composition F, and after the possible placement step.

[0445] Preferably, a shampoo is applied to said keratin fibers after the rinsing step. EXAMPLES

[0446] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Example 1

[0447] Compositions A and B as described below in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared.

[0448] [Tables 1] Composition A Sodium silicate 28.0 Disodium EDTA 1.0 Magnesium carbonate hydroxide 9.0 Sodium stearate 3.7 Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.0 Potassium persulfate 41.6 Ammonium persulfate 11.6 Mineral oil 2.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 Acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.7 Pigment 0.7

[0449] [Tables2] Composition B: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.9, Cetearyl alcohol 3.15, Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.45, Hydrogen peroxide 9.0, Stabilizers, chelating agents q.s., Mineral oil 17.0, Phosphoric acid q.s., pH = 4.2 + / - 0.2, Water q.s. 100

[0450] A bleaching composition C was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, composition A (table 1) with composition B (table 2), according to the mass weight ratio composition A / Composition B of 1:1.5.

[0451] In addition, compositions D and E as described below in Tables 3 and 4 were prepared.

[0452] [Tables3] Composition D Sodium silicate 41.0 Ammonium bicarbonate 50.0 Disodium EDTA 1.0 Sodium stearate 3.6 Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.0 Mineral oil 2.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 Acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.7

[0453] [Tables4] Composition E Hydrogenated castor oil PEG-40 0.9 Cetearyl alcohol 3.15 Hydrogen peroxide 1.5 Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.45 Stabilizers, chelating agents qs Mineral oil 17.0 Phosphoric acid Qs pH = 4.2 + / - 0.2 Water Qsp 100

[0454] A composition Fl was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, composition D (table 3) with composition E (table 4), according to the mass weight ratio composition D / Composition E of 1:2.

[0455] Compositions C and Fl are summarized in Table 5 below:

[0456] [Tables5] Compositions C Fl Mixture of compositions (Weight ratio) A + B (1 : 1.5) D + E (1 : 2)

[0457] Protocol:

[0458] Two processes were implemented on strands of Caucasian type HT4 hair (tone height 4).

[0459] According to process 1, only composition C was applied to the hair strands at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition C was followed by a processing time of 50 minutes at a temperature of 33°C.

[0460] According to process 2, composition C was first applied to the hair strands at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition C was followed by a processing time of 25 minutes at a temperature of 33°C. Composition C was then partially removed by scraping.

[0461] Composition Fia was then applied to the strands previously treated with composition C, at a rate of 5 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition Fl was followed by a processing time of 25 minutes at a temperature of 27°C, then rinsing with water. Shampoo was then applied to the strands.

[0462] Process 1, hereinafter referred to as process PI, is a comparative process.

[0463] The process 2, hereinafter referred to as process P2, is a process according to the invention.

[0464] The processes applied are summarized in Table 6 below:

[0465] [Tableauxô] PI (comparative) processes P2 (invention) Application of CC + Fl compositions Application time 50 min 25 min + 25 min

[0466] The neutralization of yellow and / or orange reflections of the hair strands was then evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

[0467] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.

[0468] The lower the value of b*, the better the neutralization of yellow and / or orange reflections.

[0469] The results obtained are grouped in Table 7 below:

[0470] [Tables7] Processes b* PI (comparative) 33.22 P2 (invention) 29.19

[0471] The process according to invention P2 makes it possible to obtain hair strands having a lower b* value than that of hair strands treated by the comparative process PL

[0472] Thus, the process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the neutralization of yellow and / or orange reflections and therefore to make the result of the bleaching more aesthetic. Example 2

[0473] The decolorization composition C as prepared in Example 1 is used again in Example 2.

[0474] The Fl composition as prepared in Example 1 is also used again in Example 2.

[0475] In addition, composition G as described below in Table 8 was prepared:

[0476] [Tables8] Composition G Sodium silicate 28.0 Magnesium carbonate hydroxide 9.0 Sodium stearate 58.6 Sodium lauryl sulfate 1.0 Mineral oil 2.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 Acrylates / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.7

[0477] A composition F2 was prepared by mixing, in a bowl and with a brush, composition G as specified above (table 8) with composition B as specified above (table 2), according to the mass weight ratio composition G / Composition B of 1:1.5.

[0478] Compositions C, Fl and F2 are summarized in Table 9 below:

[0479] [Tables9] Compositions C Fl F2 Mixture of compositions (Weight ratio) A + B (1:1.5) D + E (1:2) G + B (1:1.5)

[0480] Protocol:

[0481] Three processes were implemented on strands of Caucasian type HT4 hair (tone height 4).

[0482] The process 1, as described earlier in Example 1, has been implemented.

[0483] In addition, method 2, as described earlier in example 1, was implemented.

[0484] According to process 3, composition C was first applied to the hair strands at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition C was followed by a processing time of 25 minutes at a temperature of 33°C. Composition C was then partially removed by scraping.

[0485] Composition F2 was then applied to the strands previously treated with composition C, at a rate of 10 g of composition per gram of strand, using a brush. The application of composition F2 was followed by a processing time of 25 minutes at a temperature of 33°C, and then rinsing with water. Shampoo was then applied to the strands.

[0486] Process 1, referred to as PI, is a comparative process.

[0487] The process 2, referred to as P2, is a process according to the invention.

[0488] The process 3, hereinafter referred to as process P3, is a process according to the invention.

[0489] Unprocessed Caucasian HT4 hair strands are referred to as "pre-treatment highlights".

[0490] The processes applied are summarized in Table 10 below:

[0491] [TableauxlO] PI Processes (comparative) P2 (invention) P3 (invention) Application of CC + Fl C + F2 compositions Exposure time 50 min 25 min + 25 min 25 min + 25 min

[0492] The lightening of the hair strands was then evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

[0493] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.

[0494] The higher the value of L*, the better the lightening.

[0495] The results obtained are grouped in Table 11 below:

[0496] [Tables 11] Processes L* Wick before treatment 20.40 PI (comparative) 55.14 P2 (invention) 60.16 P3 (invention) 60.64

[0497] The processes according to the invention P2 and P3 make it possible to obtain hair strands having a higher L* value than that of the hair strands treated by the comparative process PL

[0498] Thus, the processes according to the invention make it possible to improve the lightening of keratin fibers.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for bleaching keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising, sequentially: a) applying to said keratin fibers at least one composition C comprising: i) at least one alkaline agent AAI; ii) at least one peroxygenated salt SI; and iii) hydrogen peroxide; and b) applying to said keratin fibers at least one composition F comprising: i) hydrogen peroxide; ii) optionally at least one alkaline agent AA2, and wherein composition F is devoid of peroxygenated salt, it being understood that step a) may be followed by step b) or step a) may be preceded by step b), preferably step a) is followed by step b).

2. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the alkali agent(s) AAI and AA2, identical or different, are chosen independently of each other from ammonium salts, such as ammonium chloride, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, alkanolamines, compounds containing a guanidine function, ammonium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, preferably from alkali or alkaline earth metal (meta)silicates, such as sodium (meta)silicate and alkali or alkaline earth metal (bi)carbonates, such as magnesium carbonate hydroxide, ammonium salts such as ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof.

3. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the alkaline agent(s) AAI ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 3 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

4. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the peroxygenated salt(s) SI are selected from persulfates, preferably from alkali metal persulfates, alkaline earth metal persulfates, ammonium persulfates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from (bis)tetrabutylammonium persulfate, barium persulfate, magnesium persulfate, calcium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, better from ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and mixtures thereof.

5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of peroxygenated salts SI ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 35%, even more preferably from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

6. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total hydrogen peroxide content in composition C ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 3 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

7. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total hydrogen peroxide content in composition F ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.4 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

8. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of the alkali agent(s) AA2, when present in composition F, ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 2 to 55% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 50% by weight, even more preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, better from 10 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of composition F.

9. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application of composition C is followed with an exposure time ranging from 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 15 to 35 minutes, more preferably from 20 to 30 minutes.

10. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition C is at least partially removed from the keratin fibers, before the application of composition F, it being understood that step (a) is carried out before step (b).

11. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that composition F is removed at least partially from the keratin fibers, before the application of composition C, it being understood that step (b) is carried out before step (a).

12. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the application of composition F is followed by a setting time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 15 to 35 minutes, more preferably 20 to 30 minutes.

13. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a step of extemporaneously mixing at the time of use a composition A comprising at least one alkaline agent AAI as defined in claim 1 or 2, at least one peroxygenated salt S1 as defined in claim 1 or 4, and a composition B comprising at least hydrogen peroxide to obtain composition C, and then applying said composition C to the keratin fibers in step a).

14. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition(s) C and / or F further comprise(s) at least one fat, preferably selected from liquid fats, solid fats and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from mineral oils, solid fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, in particular liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, in particular paraffin or petrolatum oil, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

15. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and 12 to 14, characterized in that step (b) is repeated at least once.

16. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 10 and 12 to 15, characterized in that during step (a), composition C is applied to a part of the hair, preferably on strands and, during step (b), composition F is applied to all the hair in the head.

17. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that composition C is at least partially removed from the keratin fibers before the application of composition F or composition F is at least partially removed from the keratin fibers before the application of composition C, said removal being carried out by scraping, rinsing or by application of a shampoo, preferably by scraping.