HAIR COMPOSITIONS AND TREATMENT PROCESSES
A synergistic combination of hair color modifying agents, osmolytes, alkalis, and carboxylic acids addresses hair damage in color modification processes, enhancing hair strength and integrity while maintaining color and appearance.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-06
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-15
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair color modification processes cause significant damage to hair fibers, leading to reduced strength, increased elasticity, and brittleness, while compositions that aim to repair or prevent this damage are not satisfactory.
A synergistic combination of hair color modifying agents, osmolytes, alkalis, and carboxylic acids, optionally with solvents and additional components like chelating agents, fatty compounds, and surfactants, is used to minimize hair damage and enhance hair strength and integrity.
The compositions significantly reduce hair damage, increase strength, and decrease elasticity, providing effective hair color modification with improved hair health and appearance.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: HAIR TREATMENT COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS technical field
[0001] The disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions and hair treatment processes, in particular for permanently altering hair color. The compositions and processes provide excellent hair coloring / lightening benefits and also have the added benefit of reducing and / or preventing hair damage and maintaining hair strength and the integrity of hair fibers. CONTEXT
[0002] Consumers wish to use cosmetic compositions and processes to change or improve the appearance of their hair, for example, by altering the color, style, and / or shape of the hair, and / or by imparting various properties to the hair, such as shine and revitalization. However, many compositions and processes for altering the appearance of hair, such as permanent hair color modification compositions and processes, involve harsh chemical treatments. For example, hair color modification compositions and processes generally require the presence of harsh chemical compounds, such as oxidizing agents. In order to change the hair color, these components must first break down the natural components of the hair fibers.
[0003] It is known that, although such processes effectively alter hair color, the chemical agents used inherently cause hair damage and negatively impact the strength, elasticity, and porosity of the hair fibers. For example, hair that has been bleached, dyed, etc., is often dry, frizzy, and generally appears unhealthy to the touch and in appearance. Furthermore, damaged hair is brittle and / or exhibits increased elasticity, leading to more frequent breakage. As such, consumers seek compositions and processes to prevent or minimize such damage and / or to repair hair that has been damaged by these treatments and processes.In particular, consumers want strong hair that does not break easily, that can be stretched or manipulated while retaining the ability to return to its original state without breakage (i.e., has reduced elasticity), that is soft and healthy to the touch, and that also has a shiny and healthy appearance.
[0004] However, it has proven difficult to formulate compositions that satisfactorily meet these requirements. For example, some compositions that attempt to solve the problem simply coat the hair with compounds that may improve its feel and appearance; however, this approach is only temporary and superficial. Rather than preventing or repairing hair damage, this approach merely masks the damage until the next rinse or wash. Other compositions attempt to treat the damage within the hair fiber, but have not been satisfactory to date.
[0005] The present inventors have now discovered a synergistic combination of components that is remarkably effective in preventing or minimizing hair damage while providing excellent coloring and / or lightening effects to the treated hair. Hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure shows remarkably reduced signs of damage, including increased strength and / or reduced elasticity. SUMMARY
[0006] The disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating keratin fibers, particularly hair. The compositions include components that significantly reduce hair damage, provide hair strength, allow hair fibers to maintain their integrity, and / or reduce hair elasticity in hair color modification processes. In particular, the compositions include (a) at least one hair color modifying agent, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one alkali, (d) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and (e) at least one solvent.
[0007] In various embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair color modifying agent selected from oxidation dye compounds, oxidizing agents and their combinations, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one alkali, (d) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and (e) at least one solvent. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair color modifying agent, (b) at least one osmolyte selected from (i) amino acids and / or (ii) amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (I), (c) at least one alkali, (d) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and (e) at least one solvent.
[0008] In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair color modifying agent selected from oxidation dye compounds, oxidizing agents and their combinations, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one alkali, (d) at least one carboxylic acid, and (e) at least one solvent. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair color modifying agent, (b) at least one osmolyte selected among carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines, amino acids and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (I), (c) at least one alkali agent, (d) at least one carboxylic acid, and (e) at least one solvent.
[0009] In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair colour modifying agent selected from oxidation dye compounds, oxidizing agents and their combinations, (b) at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, methylsulfonium compounds, polyamines, amino acids and / or amino acid derivatives such as betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (I), (c) at least one alkali agent, (d) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and (e) at least one solvent. In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair colour modifying agent selected from oxidation dye compounds, oxidizing agents and combinations thereof, (b) at least one osmolyte selected from (i) amino acids and / or (ii) compounds of formula (I), (c) at least one alkali agent, (d) at least one carboxylic acid, and (e) at least one solvent.
[0010] In still other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair colour modifying agent selected from oxidation dye compounds, oxidizing agents and their combinations, (b)(i) at least one amino acid, and / or (b)(ii) at least one amino acid derivative, preferably selected from betaines, more preferably selected from compounds of formula (I), (c) at least one alkali agent, preferably selected from alkanolamines, (d) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and (e) at least one solvent.In other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair colour modifying agent selected from oxidation dye compounds, oxidizing agents and combinations thereof, (b)(i) at least one amino acid selected from arginine and / or glycine, and / or (b)(ii) at least one amino acid derivative, preferably selected from betaines, more preferably selected from compounds of formula (I), more preferably trimethylglycine, (c) at least one alkali agent, preferably selected from alkanolamines, (d) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from lactic and / or citric acid, and (e) at least one solvent.
[0011] In certain particularly preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair color modifying agent selected from oxidation dye compounds, oxidizing agents and combinations thereof, (b) at least one amino acid, preferably selected from arginine, glycine, or a combination thereof, more preferably glycine, (c) at least one alkali agent, preferably selected from alkanolamines, more preferably monoethanolamine, (d) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from lactic acid and / or citric acid, and (e) at least one solvent. In other embodiments, the compositions comprise (a) at least one hair color modifying agent selected from oxidation dye compounds, oxidizing agents and their combinations, (b) at least one amino acid derivative, preferably selected from betaines, more preferably selected from compounds of formula (I), preferably trimethylglycine, (c) at least one alkali agent, preferably selected from alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine, (d) at least one carboxylic acid, preferably selected from lactic acid and / or citric acid, and (e) at least one solvent.
[0012] In preferred embodiments, the hair color-modifying agent is selected from compounds that permanently alter hair color, for example, oxidative dye compounds such as bases and oxidation couplers, oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide and persalts, for example, perborates and / or persulfates, for example, sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and / or ammonium persulfate, and combinations of two or more of these. The compositions may also include at least one direct dye.
[0013] In preferred embodiments, the alkaline agent is selected from ammonia and alkanolamines, in particular monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines, and even more particularly ethanolamine. In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise ethanolamine and / or ammonia.
[0014] If present, the carboxylic acid may be selected from mono-, di-, and tricarboxylic acids, for example, formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably citric acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. these.
[0015] Optionally, the compositions include at least one additional component selected from chelating agents, fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0016] The compositions according to the disclosure may be a hair color composition, a hair color base composition, or a hair lightening (bleach / highlight) composition, and may optionally be mixed with an oxidizing composition, for example an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition, at or near the time of use and before the composition is applied to the hair.
[0017] The methods include applying a composition as disclosed to the hair, optionally after mixing the composition as disclosed with an oxidizing composition, leaving it on the hair for a desired period, and removing the composition from the hair, for example by rinsing the hair with water. The methods may be hair color modification methods, preferably permanent hair color modification methods, and methods for reducing hair damage in a hair color modification process, providing strength to the hair in a hair color modification process, enabling the hair fibers to maintain their integrity in a hair color modification process, and / or reducing hair elasticity in a hair color modification process. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
[0018] [Fig.1A] [Fig.1B] Figures 1A-1B show the structure of some exemplary osmolytes which may be included in compositions according to disclosure.
[0019] [Fig.2] The [Fig.2] is a graph showing the denaturation temperature of hair treated with a composition according to disclosure and of hair treated with a comparative composition.
[0020] [Fig.3] The [Fig.3] is a graph showing the denaturation temperature of hair treated with compositions according to disclosure and of hair treated with comparative compositions. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0021] The disclosure relates to compositions and processes for treating hair, in particular for changing hair color. The disclosure also relates to compositions and processes for reducing hair damage in hair color modification processes, for providing resistance to hair in hair color modification processes, for enabling hair fibers to maintain their integrity, and / or for reducing hair elasticity in hair color modification processes. COMPOSITIONS
[0022] The compositions according to the disclosure include (a) at least one hair color modifying agent, (b) at least one osmolyte, (c) at least one alkali, (d) optionally at least one carboxylic acid, and (e) at least one solvent. The compositions may optionally further include components additional, such as chelating agents, fatty compounds, surfactants, thickening agents, or combinations of two or more of these. Hair color modifying agent
[0023] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one hair color-modifying agent. The hair color-modifying agents may be selected from those that permanently or non-permanently alter hair color. Non-limiting examples of permanently altering hair color agents include oxidative dye compounds and oxidizing agents, and non-limiting examples of non-permanently altering hair color agents include direct dyes. Preferably, the compositions comprise at least one agent for permanently altering hair color.
[0024] Oxidative dye compounds include dye precursors (also called oxidation bases) and couplers. Oxidative dye compounds may be present as salts, solvates, and / or solvates of salts.
[0025] The addition salts of the oxidation dye compounds present in the composition according to the invention are in particular selected from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0026] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation dye compounds represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C4-Cl alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0027] Preferably, the compositions comprise one or more oxidizing bases when the composition is a composition for dyeing or permanently coloring hair. Useful, but not limiting, oxidizing bases include para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, and heterocyclic bases, and the addition of their salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0028] Among the para-phenylenediamines, examples that can be mentioned include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N- diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine; 2-Fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-Isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-Hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-Dimethyl-3-Methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-Ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-Phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[α-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, as well as their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0029] Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(γ-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, as well as their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their Salts are particularly preferred.
[0030] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, examples that may be mentioned include N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane, as well as their addition salts, their solvated and the solvated of their salts.
[0031] Among the para-aminophenols, examples that can be mentioned include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydrox ethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, as well as their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0032] Examples of ortho-aminophenols that may be cited include 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, as well as their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0033] Among heterocyclic bases, examples that can be cited include pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives.
[0034] Among the pyridine derivatives, we can cite the compounds described, for example, in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, as well as their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0035] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the addition salts described, for example, in French patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(morpholine-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-7-ol and 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol, as well as their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0036] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be cited are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375, or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, where a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0037] Among the pyrazole derivatives that may be cited are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892 and DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, l-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-Dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole and 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole, and their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts. 4,5-diamino-l-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
[0038] In preferred embodiments, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole, and even more preferably a 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, and / or one of its salts, its solvates and the solvates of its salts, will be chosen.
[0039] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one,4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-y 1)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, their salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0040] Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or one of its salts, one of its solvates or a solvate of its salts will be used.
[0041] The heterocyclic bases that will preferably be used include 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-py razolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-2-yl)oxyethanol and / or one of their salts, one of their solvates, and a solvate of their salts.
[0042] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) is / are chosen from among para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation bases selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0044] The oxidation dye(s) may also include one or more couplers, which may include couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.
[0045] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.
[0046] Preferably, the couplers are chosen from among meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also their addition salts, and / or their solvates, and / or the solvates of their salts.
[0047] Examples that could be mentioned include 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-Amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-Amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-l-(3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(3-hydroxyethylamino)-l-methoxybenzene, 1,3-Diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, 1P-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 5-methoxy-6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1N-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, the 2,6-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diaminopyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-chloro-3,5-diamino-6-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 4-(3,5-diaminopyridin-2-yl)-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-methylpiperazine-1-ium chloride, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,4,6-trimethoxyaniline hydrochloride, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole, 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole and 2,6-diaminopyrazine, their addition salts, and / or their solvates, and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.
[0048] Preferably, the coupler(s) used in the invention is / are selected from 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, 1-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, 2,4-diamino-1-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, α-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, the 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, and / or their solvates, and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.
[0049] More preferably still, the coupler(s) used in the invention is / are chosen from 3-amino-6-methoxy-2-methylaminopyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol and 1-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, their addition salts, and / or their solvates, and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0050] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, as well as addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aqueous ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0051] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the combination of these couplers with a linear or branched alcohol in the C4 to C5 range, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, or n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0052] Preferably, the oxidation dyes chosen from among the couplers are selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 2,4-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 5-amino-6-chloro-2-methylphenol, l-methyl-2- hydroxy-4-P-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylaminoanisole, rhydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, l-hydroxy-3-aminobenzene, their addition salts, their solvates, and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.
[0053] Optionally, the coupler(s) is / are chosen from: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, hydroxyethyl 1-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation couplers selected from resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates and the solvates of their salts.
[0055] Advantageously, when present, the oxidation bases are present in a total content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0056] Advantageously, when present, the couplers are present in a total content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0057] Advantageously, when present, the oxidation dye compounds are present in a total content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 7% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0058] The compositions may include at least one chemical oxidizing agent. Oxidizing agents may advantageously be included in compositions for permanently coloring hair (oxidative hair dye compositions) as well as in compositions for lightening hair (hair bleaching or highlighting compositions).
[0059] Useful, but not limited to, chemical oxidizing agents include hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate (especially for bleaching hair or performing highlights), peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their optional cofactors), including peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is / are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, salts and their mixtures, more preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0060] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the chemical oxidizing agent or agents are present in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0061] According to a preferred embodiment, when present in a composition according to the disclosure, the oxidizing agent or agents are selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts and their mixtures, which may be present in a total content from 0.1% to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight and even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0062] Optionally, the compositions as disclosed include one or more direct dyes. The term "direct dye" refers to natural and / or synthetic dyes, other than oxidative dyes. These are dyes that spread superficially onto the hair fiber.
[0063] Synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from among the dyes conventionally used for direct dyeing, and among which we can mention all the commonly used aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes, such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitro(hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine and phthalocyanine direct dyes, or combinations thereof.
[0064] Among the direct nitrobenzene dyes, the following may be mentioned: l,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene, l-amino-2-nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, l,4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene, l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, lP-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene, l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)([3-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, l-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2-nitro-4-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, the l,2-dichlorobenzene-4-aminobenzene, l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, l,2-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene, l-amino-2-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino-5-nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene, l-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene, l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene,l-methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene, l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, l-[3,y- , dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene, 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-|3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene, l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, l-[3-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene, l-hydroxy-6-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-3-nitrobenzene, l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene, the l-hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene, or their combinations.
[0065] Among the direct azo dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, or their combinations.
[0066] Among the Hydrazono direct dyes, we can mention Basic Yellow 87.
[0067] Among the direct nitroaryl dyes, the following may be mentioned: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N,N'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitrophenylenediamine, or combinations thereof.
[0068] Among the direct triarylmethane dyes, the following may be mentioned: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also known as HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid Green 3; Acid Green 5; Acid Green 50, or combinations thereof.
[0069] Among the direct quinone dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone, 1,4-bis([3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16, or combinations thereof.
[0070] Among the direct azine dyes, we can mention Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2 or their combinations.
[0071] Among the direct rindoamine tinctures, the following may be mentioned: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilin-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilin-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N-(2'- chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenylacetylamino-6-methoxy-l, 4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-N-(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenylureido-6-methyl-l,4-benzoquinoneimine, 3-[4'-N-(ethylcarbamylmethyl)amino]phenylureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinoneimine, or combinations thereof.
[0072] Natural direct dyes are chosen, for example, from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alisarine, carthamine, morine, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols, ortho-diphenols, or combinations thereof.
[0073] Among the useful ortho-diphenols according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, escuetin, 6,7-dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfitein, robtein, betanidine, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, alizarin, wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them, or combinations thereof.
[0074] When the composition includes at least one direct dye, it is preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5%, and most preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
[0075] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes, more preferably chosen from oxidation dyes. Osmolytes
[0076] Osmolytes are molecules, typically of lower molecular weight, used by cells to maintain cell volume, regulate osmotic pressure, and maintain cellular homeostasis, for example, in response to environmental stressors. Organic osmolytes include aminocarboxylic acids, aminosulfonic acids, their salts and derivatives, carbohydrates such as sugars and sugar alcohols (polyols), polyamines, and betaines, methylsulfonium compounds (e.g., dimethylsulfonopropionate) and urea.
[0077] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more osmolytes, preferably one or more organic osmolytes. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise more than one osmolyte. Without wishing to develop a theory, it is believed that the use of osmolytes according to the disclosure protects hair from damage caused by hair color modification compositions and processes, providing the hair with reduced strength and / or elasticity.
[0078] In various embodiments, the useful osmolytes may be selected from amino acids and amino acid derivatives, carbohydrates, polyamines and / or compounds of formula (I), including their salts, whether or not expressly stated:
[0079] (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY (I)
[0080] in which:
[0081] - RI, R2 and R3 are chosen independently from among the alkyl groups in C1-C4, of preferentially alkyl groups in C1-C2, more preferentially methyl;
[0082] - A is N or S;
[0083] - m and n are independently equal to 0 or 1;
[0084] - X is a divalent alkyl group (= an alkylene group), linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and
[0085] - Y is -COO- or -OSO3- ;
[0086] provided that:
[0087] • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), preferably (C1-C6), more preferably (C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2;
[0088] • when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (in C1-C8) saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group (at C1-C4); and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 to 6 ring members, this ring being able to be substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl or alkyl (at C1-C4); and
[0089] • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are chosen independently from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (in Cl-C10), preferably (in C1-C6), more preferably (in C1-C4); optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.
[0090] The useful, but not limiting, carbohydrates include polyols and sugars, as well as their derivatives. By way of example, the polyols may be selected from C2-C16 polyols, such as C2-C12 or C2-C8 polyols. The useful polyols may optionally be selected from diols and triols, and may optionally be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted. Any stereoisomer of the polyols may be used. In some exemplary embodiments, the polyols may be selected from glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, or mixtures of two or more of these.In some exemplary embodiments, the polyols may be selected from propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, trimethylolpropane, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-Dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol, or mixtures of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the polyols are preferably selected from glycerol, mannitol, xylitol, ribitol, pinitol, myoinositol, sorbitol, their derivatives, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0091] Useful, but not limiting, examples of sugars include C3-C6 monosaccharides, for example pentoses and / or their derivatives, or hexoses and / or their derivatives. For example, sugars may optionally be chosen from xylose, arabinose, ribose, 2-deoxyribose, ribulose, deoxyribulose, arabinose, xylulose, allose, altrose, glucose (including dextrose), glucosamine, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, tagatose, or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the sugars are chosen from disaccharides, for example sucrose (also saccharose), maltose, lactose, cellobiose, trehalose, dextran, or from polysaccharides, for example maltotriose, starch, dextrins, cellulose, glycogen, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the sugars are preferably selected from trehalose, glucose, sucrose, fructose, fructans, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0092] The useful, but not limiting, polyamine compounds may include primary and / or secondary and / or tertiary and / or quaternary amine functional groups. By way of example, polyamines that may be selected include diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, and polymeric polyamines or polyamines, such as, for example, hexamethylenediamine, diethylenetetramine, diethylenetriamine, polyethyleneimine (PEI), polyvinylamine, polyetheramine, polylysine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-diaminopropane, cadaverine, spermidine, spermine, putrescine, tetraethylmethylenediamine, triethylenetetramine, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the useful polyamines are selected from putrescine, spermidine, and / or spermine.
[0093] Useful, but not limiting, examples of betaines include glycine betaine, valine betaine, alanine betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, etc. Salts of betaines may also be used and are expressly included in the term "betaine" unless otherwise expressly stated. In particularly preferred embodiments, the betaines are selected from those corresponding to formula (I). Examples of useful compounds of formula (I) include the compounds shown in Figures 1A-1B. As shown in [Fig. 1A], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (I) are in zwitterionic form, and as shown in [Fig. 1B], in some embodiments, the compounds of formula (I) have a corresponding counterion, X.The counterion is not limited and can be any suitable counterion, for example a chloride ion, a bromide ion, an iodide ion, a sulfate anion, a sulfonate anion, a methyl sulfate anion, a phosphate anion, a nitrate anion, etc. Thus, as used here, a "compound of formula (I)" expressly includes both the ionic form of the compound and the salt forms, whether or not this is specified.
[0094] As shown in Figures IA and IB, examples of useful compounds of formula (II) include betaine and betaine derivatives (referred to herein as "betaines"), for example, valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophan betaine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, and / or dimethylsulfoniopropionate. In a mode of Preferred realization, the osmolyte is glycine betaine (trimethylglycine), alone or in combination with one or more additional osmolytes, for example one or more additional compounds of formula (I).
[0095] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions that can be used according to the disclosure include at least one compound of formula (I). In additional preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include one or more compounds of formula (I), i.e., a zwitterionic amino acid derivative bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising a total of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, such as 2 to 10 carbon atoms, or 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0096] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (I) in which RI = R2 = methyl; A is N; and / or Y is COO-. In some other preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (I) in which R3 is a methyl. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (I) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl or amino. In still other preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (I) in which X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,more preferably of 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one compound of formula (I) in which R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched (C1-C10), preferably (C1-C6 alkyl), more preferably (C1-C4 alkyl); a phenyl group; a benzyl group; an alkyl group substituted by a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bicyclic); a cyclic group (saturated or unsaturated, mono- or bicyclic) substituted by an alkyl group; all these groups being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (~NH2), -SH, -COOH,-CONH2; more preferably where R4 is hydrogen and / or where R5 is a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched (C1-C6), more preferably (Cl-C4 alkyl); optionally substituted by a group selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -COOH, or -CONH2. In some preferred embodiments, when A is N and m = 0, R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising, of 5 to 8 ring members, preferably of 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group. In other preferred embodiments, RI = R2 = methyl, A is N, Y is COO-, and X (if any) is a divalent alkyl group which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms.
[0097] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one compound of formula (I) in which RI = R2 = R3 = methyl; A is N; Y is COO-; X is a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably saturated, having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by a group selected from the hydroxyl or amino group, more preferably from 1 to 2 carbon atoms (unsubstituted), such as methylene or ethylene; R4 is hydrogen; and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 ring members, preferably from 5 to 6 ring members, optionally substituted by a hydroxy group.
[0098] In preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 1A-1B. In more preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise trimethylglycine (interchangeably called glycine betaine), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte.
[0099] In particularly preferred embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine, optionally with at least one additional osmolyte.
[0100] In particularly preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one compound of formula (I), preferably trimethylglycine (also referred to herein as glycine betaine or simply "betaine"), optionally in combination with at least one additional osmolyte, for example, at least one amino acid and / or at least one additional compound of formula (I). Thus, in some embodiments, the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more of the compounds shown in Figures 1A-1B, and in particularly preferred embodiments the osmolyte in the composition comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of glycine betaine.
[0101] In some embodiments, the useful osmolytes may be selected from basic, acidic, and / or neutral amino acids, in particular carboxylic amino acids, sulfonic amino acids, their salts, or their derivatives. Amino acid salts are also included in the term "amino acid," whether explicitly stated or not. By way of non-limiting example, the salts that may be selected These include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example, salts of alkali metals, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; salts of alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include at least one basic amino acid and / or one of its salts.
[0102] In certain embodiments, it is particularly advantageous to choose one or more aminocarboxylic acids. Thus, in various embodiments, the treatment compositions according to the disclosure comprise one or more amino acids of formula (II):COOH(II) H — C — R
[0103] in which:
[0104] - p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, and
[0105] • when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, preferably 5 ring members, the latter being able to be substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (in C1-C4); or
[0106] • when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C12 alkyl group saturated, linear or branched, preferably an alkyl group in C1-C4, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring.
[0107] In certain embodiments when p = 1, R forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 ring members, this ring not being substituted.
[0108] In some embodiments, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl group, linear or branched (C1-C4), optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -CONH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2, or an imidazole ring. In some embodiments, p is preferably 2.
[0109] Examples of aminocarboxylic acids include alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamic acid, glutamine, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, and combinations of two or more of these. Examples of aminosulfonic acids include aminomethanesulfonic acid, 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid (taurine), aminopropanesulfonic acid, aminobutanesulfonic acid, aminohexanesulfonic acid, aminoisopropylsulfonic acid, aminododecylsulfonic acid, aminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminotoluenesulfonic acid, sulfanilic acid, chlorosulfanilic acid, diaminobenzenesulfonic acid, aminophenolsulfonic acid, aminopropylbenzenesulfonic acid, aminohexylbenzenesulfonic acid, and combinations of two or more of these.
[0110] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the aforementioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these. In at least some embodiments, the amino acid compounds in the composition consist essentially of, or are composed of, amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, salts of any of the aforementioned elements (in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or zinc salts), or combinations of two or more of these.
[0111] In some embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of glycine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of proline and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the amino acid(s) useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of methionine and / or its salts.In other embodiments, the acid or amino acids useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of serine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the acid or amino acids useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of arginine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the acid or amino acids useful in the treatment compositions may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of histidine and / or its salts. In still other embodiments, the acid. or the amino acid(s) useful in the compositions may include, consist essentially of, or consist of basic amino acids and / or their salts.
[0112] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include arginine and / or one of its salts.
[0113] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions include glycine and / or one of its salts.
[0114] In certain particularly preferred embodiments, the compositions as disclosed comprise at least one amino acid, in particular at least one basic carboxylic amino acid, at least one neutral carboxylic amino acid, or one of their combinations. More preferably, the compositions as disclosed comprise arginine, glycine, serine, their salts, or combinations thereof.
[0115] In other preferred embodiments, the compositions as disclosed comprise at least one compound of formula (I) and at least one amino acid, preferably at least one basic amino acid. Preferably, the compositions as disclosed comprise glycine betaine, arginine, their salts, or combinations thereof. In other preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one osmolyte selected from carbohydrate sugars, polyamines, amino acid derivatives such as betaines, and more preferably from compounds of formula (II) or their salts.
[0116] In various embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition can range from about 0.01% to about 50%, for example, from about 0.01% to about 40%, from about 0.01% to about 30%, from about 0.01% to about 25%, or from about 0.01% to about 20%, for example, from about 0.1% to about 15%, from about 0.1% to about 12%, from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 9%, from about 0.1% to about 8%, from about 0.1% to about 7%, from about 0.1% to about 6%, from about 0.1% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.1% to about 3%, from about 0.1% to approximately 2%, from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 0.5% to approximately 3%from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.5% to about 1%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to about 10%, from about 1.5% to about 9%, from about 1.5% to about 8%, from about 1.5% to , approximately 7%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.25% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2,5% to approximately 6%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, approximately 2.5% to approximately 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may be approximately 3.0%, approximately 3.1%, approximately 3.2%, approximately 3.3%, approximately 3.4%, approximately 3.5%, approximately 3.6%, approximately 3.7%, approximately 3.8%, approximately 3.9% approximately 4.0%, approximately 4.1%, approximately 4.2%, approximately 4.3%, approximately 4.4% approximately 4.5%, approximately 4.6%, approximately 4.7%, approximately 4.8%, approximately 4.9% approximately 5.0%, approximately 5.1%, approximately 5.2%, approximately 5.3%, approximately 5.4% approximately 5.5%, approximately 5.6%, approximately 5.7%, approximately 5.8%, approximately 5.9% or about 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0117] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of osmolytes present in the composition may range from about 0.5% to about 10%, for example from about 1% to about 8%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 6%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 4% or from about 2% to about 3.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0%. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0118] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a total amount of compounds of formula (I), preferably comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of glycine betaine in an amount ranging from approximately 0.5% to about 5%, for example from about 1% to about 5%, preferably from about 1.25% to about 4%, more preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 3% or from about 2% to about 2.5%, more preferably still from about 2.25% to about 2.75%, and most preferably from about 2.3% to about 2.6%, or may be present in an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.1%, about 2.2%, about 2.3%, about 2.4%, about 2.5%, about 2.6%, about 2.7%, about 2.8%, about 2.9%, or about 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the previous values as upper and lower limits.
[0119] In another particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a total amount of amino acids, preferably basic amino acids, more preferably basic carboxylic amino acids, most preferably comprising, consisting essentially of, or consisting of arginine, in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 10%, for example from about 1% to about 8%, preferably from about 1.5% to about 7.5%, more preferably from about 2% to about 7%, or an amount of about 2.0%, about 2.5%, about 3%, about 3.5%, about 4%, about 4.5%, about 5%, about 5.5%, or about 6.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower limits.
[0120] In certain embodiments, it may be advantageous to include at least one amino acid and at least one compound of formula (I), and to choose quantities of each so as to provide a weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition and the total quantity of compounds of formula (I) and their salts in the composition that is greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio between the total quantity of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total quantity of compounds of formula (I) and their salts can range from about 0.1 to about 10, such as from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) and their salts and the total amount of compounds of formula (I) and their salts can range from more than 1 to about 4, for example from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio between the total amount of amino acid(s) in . the composition and total amount of compounds of formula (I) and their salts in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower bounds.
[0121] In some embodiments, the compositions have a weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acid(s) and their salts in the composition and the total amount of compounds of formula (I) and their salts in the composition that is greater than about 0.1, for example, greater than about 0.2, greater than about 0.5, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2. In various embodiments, the weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acid(s) and their salts and the total amount of compounds of formula (I) and their salts can range from about 0.1 to about 10, such as from about 0.2 to about 8, from about 0.5 to about 6, from about 1 to about 5, from about 1.2 to about 4, or from about 1.5 to about 3.5.In other embodiments, the weight ratio between the total quantity of basic amino acid(s) and their salts and the total quantity of compounds of formula (I) and their salts can range from more than 1 to about 4, for example from about 1.25 to about 3.5, from about 1.5 to about 3, from about 1.75 to about 2.5, from about 1.75 to about 2.25, or from about 1.8 to about 2.2. For example, the weight ratio between the total amount of basic amino acid(s) in the composition and the total amount of compounds of formula (I) and their salts in the composition may be about 1.1, about 1.2, about 1.3, about 1.4, about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.7, about 1.8, about 1.9, about 2, about 2.1, about 2.2, about 2.3, about 2.4, or about 2.5, including all ranges and subranges using any of the preceding values as upper and lower bounds.
[0122] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of arginine to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, for example ranging from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. In another preferred embodiment, the composition comprises arginine, serine, and glycine betaine and has a weight ratio of the total amount of [arginine + serine] to glycine betaine greater than 1, for example, greater than about 1.25, greater than about 1.5, greater than about 1.75, or greater than about 2, per example ranging from more than 1 to about 4, preferably from about 1.5 to about 3, more preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.5, and most preferably from about 1.75 to about 2.25. Alkaline agents
[0123] The compositions according to the disclosure typically include at least one alkali agent. The useful alkali agents may be selected from mineral, organic, or hybrid alkali agents.
[0124] Useful, but not limiting, mineral alkalizing agents include aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali or alkaline-earth metal phosphates such as sodium or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, and combinations thereof.
[0125] Useful, but not limiting, organic alkanolamines include alkanolamines, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine or spermidine, and combinations thereof. As used herein, the term "alkanolamine" is understood to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary, or tertiary amine function and one or more linear or branched Cl-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0126] Organic amines selected from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are particularly suitable. In particular, the alkanolamines are selected from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the alkaline agent comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more alkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine.
[0127] The organic amine can also be selected from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to histidine, examples include pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be selected from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention include carnosine, anserine, and balenine. The organic amine can also be selected from compounds containing a guanidine function. As amines Other than arginine of this type that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-l-sulfonic acid.
[0128] As hybrid alkali agents, guanidine carbonate and / or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may be used in particular.
[0129] The alkali agent(s) which may be used according to the invention is / are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen) carbonate and potassium (hydrogen) carbonate, alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, preferably from aqueous ammonia and alkanolamines, in particular alkanolamines, and preferably further, the alkali agent comprises monoethanolamine.
[0130] Advantageously, the total content of alkali agent(s) ranges from approximately 0.1% to approximately 30%, preferably from approximately 1% to approximately 25%, more preferably from approximately 2% to approximately 20%, and most preferably from approximately 3% to approximately 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In a preferred embodiment, the total content of alkali agent(s) is preferably greater than or equal to approximately or exactly 3.5% by weight, for example, ranging from approximately or exactly 3.5% to approximately 20% by weight, preferably from approximately or exactly 4% to approximately 15% by weight, more preferably from approximately or exactly 4% to approximately 10% by weight, and most preferably from approximately or exactly 4% to approximately 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0131] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the total alkanolamine content, if present, ranges from about 0.1% to about 10%, for example, from about 0.5% to about 5%, from about 0.5% to about 3%, from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, from about 0.5% to about 2%, from about 0.75% to about 5%, from about 0.75% to about 3%, from about 0.75% to about 2.5%, from about 0.75% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1.5% to about 5%, from about 1.5% to about 3%, from about 1.5% to about 2.5%, or about 1.5% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.In some embodiments, the total amount of alkanolamines is greater than about or exactly 1.5%, for example greater than about or exactly 1.55%, greater than about or exactly 1.6%, greater than about or exactly 1.65%, greater than about or exactly 1.7%, greater than about or exactly 1.75%, greater than . at about or exactly 1.8%, greater than about or exactly 1.85%, greater than about or exactly 1.9%, greater than about or exactly 1.95%, or greater than about or exactly 2%.
[0132] If present, the total amount of ammonia is preferably greater than approximately or exactly 1.85%, greater than approximately or exactly 1.9%, greater than approximately or exactly 1.95%, greater than approximately or exactly 2%, greater than approximately or exactly 2.25%, greater than approximately or exactly 2.5%, greater than approximately or exactly 2.75%, or greater than approximately or exactly 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Carboxylic acids
[0133] Optionally, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid. According to various embodiments of the disclosure, the useful carboxylic acids include organic compounds that comprise, for example, one (mono-), two (di-), three (tri-), or more acid functional groups and at least one carbon atom. In preferred embodiments, the compositions according to the disclosure include at least one carboxylic acid.
[0134] The carboxylic acids that may be used may optionally have a molecular weight less than about 500 g / mol, less than about 400 g / mol, less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol. In preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids have a molecular weight less than about 300 g / mol, or less than about 200 g / mol.
[0135] Salts of carboxylic acids may also be used, and are expressly included unless otherwise stated. Salts include organic or mineral-based salts, for example, alkali metal salts, such as lithium, sodium, or potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium or calcium salts; and zinc salts. Alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred in some embodiments, and in particular sodium salts.
[0136] In some preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and / or one of their salts. These (poly)acids are different from the amino acid-type compounds described above. The useful (poly)acids comprise at least one -COOH group (in acid or sal form); they may thus comprise a single -COOH group (monoacid) or may comprise more than one, for example, two -COOH groups (in acid or sal form), or two or three -COOH groups (in acid or sal form) (polyacids). The useful (poly)acids also comprise at least one -OH group, such as one to three or two to three -OH groups, for example, one, two, or three -OH groups. Preferably, the (poly)acids comprise a total of two to eight or three to six carbon atoms and two to three -OH groups, and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and preferably saturated and linear. In some preferred embodiments, the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and / or their salts comprise a total of three to six carbon atoms, one to three -OH groups, and two to three -COOH groups (in acid or salt form). Unless otherwise specified, as used herein, the term "(poly)acid" includes both monoacids and polyacids.
[0137] Non-limiting examples of monocarboxylic acids that may be chosen include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of lactic acid and / or one of its salts.
[0138] Non-limiting examples of dicarboxylic acids that may be selected include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the compositions may include oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, maleic acid, salts thereof, or combinations of two or more of these.
[0139] Non-limiting examples of tricarboxylic acids include citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of citric acid and / or one of its salts.
[0140] In some embodiments, the carboxylic acid(s) may be selected from oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these. In particularly preferred embodiments, the carboxylic acids are selected from α-hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid, and their salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts. In certain embodiments, it may be particularly advantageous to choose citric acid, lactic acid and / or tartaric acid and / or their salts, especially alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as citrate of sodium and / or sodium tartrate; preferably citric acid and / or its salts, in particular alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium citrate.
[0141] The total amount of carboxylic acids, if any, may range from about 0.1% to about 20%, such as about 0.5% to about 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, in some embodiments, the total amount of at least one carboxylic acid may range from about 1% to about 15%, in particular from about 1% to about 12%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 9%, from about 1% to about 8%, from about 1% to about 7%, from about 1% to about 6%, from about 1% to about 5.5%, from about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 4.5%, from about 1% to about 4%, from about 1% to about 3.5%, from about 1% to about 3%, from about 1% to about 2.5%, from about 1% to about 2%, from about 1% to about 1.5%, from about 1.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, from about 1.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 7%from approximately 1.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 1.5% to approximately 2%, from approximately 2% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, from approximately 2% to approximately 2.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 2%5% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 4%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 2.5% to approximately 3%, from approximately 3% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3% to approximately 9%, from approximately 3% to approximately 8%, from approximately 3% to approximately 7%, from approximately 3% to approximately 6%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 3% to approximately 4%, from approximately 3% to approximately 3.5%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 3.5% to approximately 9% %, from about 3.5% to about 8%, from about 3.5% to about 7%, from about 3.5% to about 6%, from about 3.5% to about 5.5%, from about 3.5% to about 5%, from about 3.5% to about 4.5%, from about 3.5% to about 4%, from about 4% to about 15%, from about 4% to , approximately 12%, from approximately 4% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 5%, from approximately 4% to approximately 4.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 4.5% to approximately 5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5% to approximately 12% from approximately 5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5% to approximately 7%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 5% to approximately 5.5%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 15%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 12%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 10%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 9%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 8%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 7%from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6.5%, from approximately 5.5% to approximately 6%, from approximately 6% to approximately 15%, from approximately 6% to approximately 12%, from approximately 6% to approximately 10%, from approximately 6% to approximately 9%, from approximately 6% to approximately 8%, from approximately 6% to approximately 7%, or from approximately 6% to approximately 6.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one carboxylic acid and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranges from about 0.5% to about 20%, for example from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, from about 4.5% to about 8%, from about 5% to about 7%, from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, or from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a total amount of carboxylic acids and salts ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, such as from about 2% to about 15%, from about 4% to about 10%, preferably from about 4.5% to about 8%, more preferably from about 5% to about 7%, more preferably from about 5.5% to about 6.5%, more preferably still from about 5.7% to about 6.3%, most preferably from about 5.8% to about 6.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] In embodiments where the composition comprises at least one amino acid and at least one carboxylic acid, it may be advantageous to choose amounts of amino acids and carboxylic acids such that the composition has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of carboxylic acids greater than or equal to approximately 0.5, such as greater than or equal to approximately 0.75. For example, in various embodiments, the composition presents a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of carboxylic acids greater than about 0.8, for example greater than about 0.9, greater than about 1, greater than about 1.1, greater than about 1.2, greater than about 1.3, greater than about 1.4, or greater than about 1.5. In some cases, the composition presents a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and the total amount of carboxylic acids ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, for example from about 0.8 to about 1.5, from about 0.8 to about 1.35, or from about 0.8 to about 1.2.In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises arginine and at least one carboxylic acid selected from citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, their salts, or combinations thereof, and has a weight ratio between the total amount of amino acids and their salts and the total amount of carboxylic acids and their salts ranging from about 0.75 to about 2, preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.5, more preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.35, most preferably from about 0.8 to about 1.2. Solvent
[0144] The compositions according to the disclosure comprise at least one solvent. The solvent may be selected from non-aqueous solvents or a combination thereof.
[0145] In preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water. In some embodiments, the composition comprises from about 20% to about 98% water, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition comprises water in an amount ranging from about 20% to about 95% by weight, such as from about 20% to about 90%, from about 25% to about 90%, from about 40% to about 90%, or from about 40% to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0146] In other embodiments, the solvent may include at least one non-aqueous solvent. Non-limiting examples of non-aqueous solvents that may be used include, for example, glycerin, C1.4 alcohols, organic solvents, fatty alcohols, fatty ethers, fatty esters, polyols, glycols, vegetable oils, mineral oils, liposomes, lamellar lipid materials, or combinations thereof.The non-aqueous solvent may be chosen from among organic solvents, for example monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of . diethylene glycol. Compositions preferably include at least one non-aqueous solvent, for example propanediol and / or glycerin.
[0147] If present, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents in the composition may range from about 1% to about 20%, for example, from about 2% to about 20%, from about 3% to about 15%, or from about 4% to about 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some preferred embodiments, the solvent comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent.In some embodiments, the composition comprises water and at least one non-aqueous solvent, the total amount of non-aqueous solvents ranging from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 12%, more preferably from about 2% to about 11%, most preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally in addition the non-aqueous solvent comprising at least one solvent selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, propanediol, propylene carbonate, PPG-3 methyl ether, dimethyl isosorbide, hexylene glycol, ethanol, or mixtures of two or more of these, preferably selected from glycerin, propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, or a mixture of two or more of these.
[0148] In some embodiments, the compositions comprise propanediol in an amount greater than or equal to 3%, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally one or more other non-aqueous solvents, in which the total amount of non-aqueous solvents other than propanediol ranges from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.For example, in some embodiments, the compositions comprise propanediol in an amount greater than or equal to 3%, preferably in the range of 3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and / or glycerin in an amount greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably in the range of 3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Chelating agents
[0149] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include one or more chelating agents. By way of example, useful chelating agents may contain at least two electron-donating atoms that allow the formation of bonds with the metal ion. For example, carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids Aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts, and their derivatives may be selected. Examples of salts include alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, and substituted ammonium salts. Among the salts, alkali metal salts, particularly sodium or potassium salts, are preferred.
[0150] By way of non-limiting example, acid-based chelating agents Carboxylic acid compounds include diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from Octel, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N,N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenylacetic acid) (EDDHA), N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), and other acids. methylglycinediacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl-N,N-diacetic acid and glycerylliminodiacetic acid (described in documents EP-A-317 542 and EP-A-399 133), iminodiacetic-N-2-hydroxypropylsulfonic acid and aspartic-N-carboxymethyl-N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (described in document EP-A-516 102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, N,N'-diacetic acid and N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509 382), iminodisuccinic acid-based chelating agents (IDSA) (described in EP-A-509 382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound sold by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Akzo Nobel's Dissolvine GL38 or 45S.
[0151] Mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include diethylenetriaminepenta(methylenephosphonic) acid (DTPMP), ethane-l-hydroxy-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-l-hydroxy-l,l-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethane-l,l,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-l,l-diphosphonic acid (HEDP or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate.
[0152] Useful polyphosphoric acid-based chelating agents include sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphosphoric acid, sodium metaphosphate and phytic acid.
[0153] Useful phosphorus-based chelating agents, which are particularly preferred, include linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together via at least one L-linker comprising at an oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom, preferably chosen from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, for example comprising at least two phosphorus atoms, more preferably chosen from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, for example, alkali metal pyrophosphates such as sodium pyrophosphate (also known as tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0154] By way of example, the chelating agent may be selected from inorganic phosphorus-based derivatives, preferably selected from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, phosphates and pyrophosphates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, preferably alkali metal, polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; which are optionally hydrated, and mixtures thereof; and organic phosphorus-based derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, such as etidronic acid and / or their alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, for example tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, and mixtures thereof.
[0155] In preferred embodiments, the compositions comprise at least one chelating agent selected from tetrasodium ethidronate, disodium ethidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, ethidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and its salts, and mixtures thereof, more preferably N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and / or one of its salts, preferably a sodium or potassium salt.
[0156] When present, the total quantity of chelating agent(s) ranges from 0.001% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 8% by weight, most preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0157] In a preferred embodiment, the compositions comprise N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and / or one of its salts, more preferably a salt, most preferably tetrasodium glutamate diacetate in an amount from 0.001% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, most preferably from 0.075% to 2% by weight, or from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty compounds
[0158] The compositions optionally include one or more fatty compounds (also referred to interchangeably herein as "fatty substances"). The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5 wt%, preferably less than 1 wt%, and even more preferably less than 0.1 wt%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty compounds are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.In other words, the term "fatty substances" refers to an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), particularly with a solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight.
[0159] In preferred embodiments, the fatty compounds are not chosen from fatty acids in free form, for example fatty acids that are not in the form of esters (or fatty acids that are not esterified).
[0160] Preferably, the fatty substances do not include any carboxylic acid function -COOH or any carboxylate function -COO.
[0161] The fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are preferably neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0162] Preferably, the fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances. The expression "non-silicone fatty substance" refers to a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds and the expression "silicone fatty substance" refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-O bond.
[0163] The fatty substances useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. A liquid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). A solid fatty substance is understood to be a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0164] For the purposes of this disclosure, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on the thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point Melting points can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. All melting points mentioned here are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 1.05 Pa).
[0165] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) according to the invention may be chosen from among liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Cl6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglyceride type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Useful alcohols and fatty esters more particularly contain at least one hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 6 to 40, for example from 8 to 30, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular from 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0167] With regard to liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof. Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof. An oil based on hydrocarbons of animal origin that may be cited is perhydrosqualene.
[0168] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably selected from among liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and their mixtures.
[0169] As regards fluorinated oils, they can be selected from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.
[0170] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for use in the invention are particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenylic alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0171] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, examples may include esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or poly-acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or poly-alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0172] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid is branched.
[0173] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0174] Preferably, among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
[0175] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0176] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0177] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and which include at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described below.
[0178] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose and their derivatives, including alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0179] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected, in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C6 to C30 and preferably in C12 to C22. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0180] Esters can also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and their mixtures.
[0181] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof, for example in particular such as mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate.
[0182] In particular, monoesters and diesters are used, including sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di-oleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or di-oleopalmitates, mono- or di-linoleates, mono- or di-linolenates and mono- or di-oleostearates, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0183] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0184] Preferably, a liquid ester of a monoacid and a monoalcohol will be used.
[0185] According to one embodiment, the fatty substances which are useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols.
[0186] Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) is / are chosen from among liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleyl alcohol.
[0187] Solid fatty substances preferentially have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
[0188] The solid fatty substance(s) is / are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0189] The term "fatty alcohol" refers to a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.
[0190] Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R'-OH with R' denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and most preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0191] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, as well as from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, and most preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0192] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected, alone or in mixture, from: myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0193] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0194] The solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters resulting from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
[0195] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched saturated monoalcohol, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0196] Esters of di-carboxylic or tri-carboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 may also be used.
[0197] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0198] Preferably, the solid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; and C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0199] For the purposes of disclosure, a wax is a lipophilic compound that is solid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40 °C, which can reach up to 200 °C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but upon returning the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax occurs, which is detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0200] In particular, waxes suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0201] Examples include hydrocarbon-based waxes, for example beeswax, particularly of organic origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, alfa wax, berry wax, lacquer wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; lignite wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0202] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C2o to C60, such as Microwax HW.
[0203] We can also mention the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0204] Also of note are waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched fatty chains in the C8 to C32 range. Among these waxes, one can cite in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular the product manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane tetrastearate), in particular the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by Heterene.
[0205] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
[0206] Another wax that can be used is a C2O to C4O alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydropolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.
[0207] It is also possible to use micro-waxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include carnauba micro-waxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by Micro Powders; synthetic wax micro-waxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by Micro Powders; micro-waxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by Micro Powders; micro-waxes made from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by Micro Powders; polyethylene micro-waxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220L®, and 250S® by Micro Powders; and polytetraethylene micro-waxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by Micro Powders. ;
[0208] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes, for example cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax or absolute flower waxes, such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the Bertin company (France); waxes of animal origin, for example beeswax or modified beeswax (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0209] Ceramides, or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification may be mentioned.
[0210] The ceramides or their analogues that can be used preferably correspond to the following formula (III):
[0211] R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1) (III)
[0212] in which:
[0213] - R1 designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids in C14-C30, this group being able to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated Ci6-C3o fatty acid;
[0214] - R2 designates a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer from 1 to 4 and m is an integer from 1 to 8; and
[0215] - R3 designates a group based on hydrocarbons in C15-C26, saturated or unsaturated in alpha position, this group may optionally be substituted with one or more alkyl groups in C1-C14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in C15-C26, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.
[0216] The ceramides that are most particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R2 designates a hydrogen atom and R3 designates a linear group saturated in C15.
[0217] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0218] Compounds may also be used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R3 designates a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical, preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0219] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxypalmitoyl]aminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoyinohexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingoine, N-palmitohydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide of cetyl acid, and bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N-Oleoyldihydrosphingosine will preferably be used.
[0220] Solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures.
[0221] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substances, preferably selected from fatty alcohols solids and their mixtures, in particular among cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
[0222] Butters may also be used. For the purposes of this disclosure, the term "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") designates a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change that comprises, at a temperature of 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25 °C and a melting point below 60 °C.
[0223] Particular examples include shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or bassia madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armiaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter, and sunflower butter. Shea butter is an example of a favorite butter.
[0224] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fat substances other than fatty acids, preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, and one or more liquid fat substances other than fatty acids, preferably selected from liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols.
[0225] Advantageously, the total content of the fat(s) other than fatty acids is greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 4% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0226] Advantageously, the total content of the solid fat(s) other than fatty acids is greater than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably from 10% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 20% by weight, or even more preferably 14% to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactants
[0227] The compositions according to the disclosure may optionally include at least one surfactant. For example, the compositions may include one or more nonionic and / or anionic surfactants and, in some embodiments, the compositions may include mixtures of surfactants having the same or different ionicities.
[0228] In various embodiments, the composition includes at least one nonionic surfactant. The nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition of the disclosure is / are described, for example, in the "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178. The composition according to the disclosure preferably comprises one or more nonionic surfactants selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, or mixtures thereof.
[0229] Non-ionic surfactants can, in various embodiments, be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
[0230] C8-C30 fatty acid esters, in particular C8-C24 and preferably C16-C22, and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, may include more than 10 units of oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene, in particular 15 to 200 units, or 15 to 100 units of oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene.
[0231] Esters of a C8-C30 fatty acid, in particular of a C8-C24 fatty acid and preferably of a C16-C22 fatty acid, and of (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular of oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers are preferably chosen from polyoxyethylenated glyceryl monostearate containing 200 oxyethylene motifs, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for example the Tagat S® product sold by Goldschmidt, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for example the Tagat O® product sold by Goldschmidt, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for example the Varionic LI 13® product sold by Sherex, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate containing 30 oxyethylene units, for example the Tagat L® product sold by Goldschmidt, and polyoxyethylenated glyceryl laurate containing 30 oxyethylene motifs, for example the Tagat I® product from the Goldschmidt company.
[0232] Preferably, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers are selected from Ci6-C22 fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated glycerol ethers.
[0233] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are selected from (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, such as cocoyl glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside, and mixtures thereof.
[0234] If present, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) selected from the (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides shall preferably be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, and most preferably from 0.3% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0235] The composition may also contain one or more additional non-ionic surfactants different from the previously defined non-ionic surfactants, in particular different from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosides, C8-C30 fatty acid esters and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, or mixtures thereof.
[0236] Examples of such additional nonionic surfactants that may be cited include the following compounds, alone or in mixtures:
[0237] - oxyalkylated (C8-C24) alkyl phenols,
[0238] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8- oxyalkylated or glycerolated alcohols C40, preferably including one or two fatty chains;
[0239] - saturated or unsaturated fatty acid amides, linear or branched, C8 oxyalkylated -C3o;
[0240] - the esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, in C8-C30 and of polyalkylene glycols,
[0241] - oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, in C8-C 30 and sorbitol;
[0242] - sucrose fatty acid esters;
[0243] - (poly)glucosides of alkenyl (in C8-C30), which are optionally oxyalkylated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene motifs) and include 1 to 15 glucose motifs, alkyl esters (in C8-C30)(poly)glucoside;
[0244] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils;
[0245] - ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensate;
[0246] - derivatives of A^-(C8-C30)alkylglucamine and A4(C8-C30)acyhnethylglucamine;
[0247] - amine oxides.
[0248] They are in particular chosen from among alcohols other than fatty alcohols used as fatty compounds, a-diols and alkylphenols (in Ci-C20), these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and comprising at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 200, and the number of glycerol groups being able to range in particular from 1 to 30.
[0249] We can also mention ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates with fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5, and in particular 1.5 to 4, glycerol groups, ethoxylated esters of sorbitan fatty acids containing 1 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, esters of sucrose fatty acids, esters of polyethylene glycol fatty acids, (C6-C24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(Cio-Ci4 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine oxides.
[0250] Sorbitan C8-C30 and preferably C[2-C22 fatty acid esters (in particular monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan can be selected from sorbitan caprylate, sorbitan cocoate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan lyurate, sorbitan o sorbitan, the palmitate of sorbitan ; sorbitan stearate; sorbitan diisostearate; sorbitan dioleate; sorbitan distearate; the sesquicaprylate of sorbitan ; the sesquiisostearate of sorbitan; the sesquioleate of sorbitan; the sesquistearate of sorbitan; sorbitan triisostearate; sorbitan trioleate; and / or sorbitan tristearate.
[0251] Polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably Ci2-Ci8) fatty acid esters (in particular monoesters, diesters and triesters) of sorbitan containing in particular 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide may be selected from polyoxyethylenated esters of Ci2-Ci8 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl or stearic acid, and sorbitan containing in particular 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as:
[0252] - polyoxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-21),
[0253] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-20),
[0254] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monopalmitate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-40),
[0255] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-60),
[0256] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-61),
[0257] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-80),
[0258] - polyoxyethylenated (5 OE) sorbitan monooleate (Polysorbate-81),
[0259] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan tristearate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-65),
[0260] - polyoxyethylenated sorbitan trioleate (20 OE) (Polysorbate-85).
[0261] Polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 (preferably Ci2-Ci8) fatty acid esters (in particular monoesters, diesters, triesters and tetraesters) of sorbitan, containing in particular 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, may be selected from polyoxyethylenated esters, containing in particular 2 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide, such as Ci2-Ci8 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl or stearic acids, and sorbitans, such as:
[0262] - the polyoxyethylenated ester with 20 EO of sorbitan and cocoic acid (cocoate of sorbitan PEG-20);
[0263] - polyoxyethylenated esters (containing in particular 2 to 20 EOs) of sorbitan and of isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate; PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Nikkol TI 10 V by the Nikkol company),
[0264] - polyoxyethylenated esters (containing in particular 2 to 20 EOs) of sorbitan and lauric acid (such as PEG-10 sorbitan laurate),
[0265] - polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular containing 2 to 20 EOs) of sorbitan and of oleic acid containing 10 oxyethylenated groups (such as PEG-6 sorbitan oleate; PEG-20 sorbitan oleate),
[0266] - polyoxyethylenated esters (containing in particular 3 to 20 EOs) of sorbitan and stearic acid (such as PEG-3 sorbitan stearate; PEG-4 sorbitan stearate; PEG-6 sorbitan stearate).
[0267] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, and most preferably from 0.3% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0268] The composition may also optionally include one or more anionic surfactants. Preferably, the composition as disclosed includes one or more anionic surfactants.
[0269] The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably selected from the following groups: CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, H2PO3, HPO3, PO32, H2PO2, HPO2, PO22, POH and PO3.
[0270] Examples of anionic surfactants that may be used include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, and sulfosuccinates. alkyl ether, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-(C1-C4)alkyl N-acyl taurates, alkyl monoester salts of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, alkyl monoester salts of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, D-galactoside uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts; fatty acid salts and corresponding non-salted forms of all these compounds; alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise indicated) generally including 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.These compounds may optionally be oxyethylated and then preferably include 1 to 50 units of ethylene oxide.
[0271] C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
[0272] When the anionic surfactant(s) is / are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salt, and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.
[0273] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be cited include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine salts; monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, or triisopropanolamine salts; 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts; 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts; and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts. Salts of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
[0274] The anionic surfactants that may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, namely anionic surfactants without a sulfate function. With regard to mild anionic surfactants, particular examples include the following compounds and their salts, as well as mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylated alkylated carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylated alkylated carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylated alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, particularly those including 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates and alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters. In particular, polyoxyalkylened alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, for example lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4,5 OE) sold, for example, under the name Akypo RLM 45 CA from Kao.
[0275] The anionic surfactants that may be present may be carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also known as fatty acids, optionally in salified form.
[0276] For the purposes of disclosure, the term "fatty acid" means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain, such as an alkyl or alkenyl chain, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and most preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0277] Carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are neither (poly)oxyethylated nor (poly)oxypropylened.
[0278] They preferably have the structure R-COOH, in which R designates a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group in C7-C29, preferably in C9-C23 and most preferably in C9-C17.
[0279] Preferably, the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, for example linear unsaturated fatty acids in Ci0-C22 and in particular in Ci0-Ci8 (R is a linear alkenyl in C9-C23 or even in C9-Ci7).
[0280] Examples include lauric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, undecylenic acid, isocetyl acid, isostearic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid and cetylstearylic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic acid will be used.
[0281] Among the aforementioned anionic surfactants, fatty acids are preferably used.
[0282] When the composition includes one or more anionic surfactants, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) in the composition is preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, most preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0283] When the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants selected from fatty acids, the total fatty acid content in the composition preferably ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, and most preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents
[0284] The compositions according to the disclosure optionally include at least one thickening agent. Useful thickening agents include, but are not limited to, semi-synthetic polymers, such as semi-synthetic cellulosic derivatives, synthetic polymers, such as carbomers, poloxamers and beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymers, acrylate copolymers, polyethyleneimines (e.g., PEI-10), natural polymers, such as acacia, tragacanth, alginates (e.g., sodium alginate), carrageenan, vegetable gums, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, petroleum jelly, waxes, associated particulate colloids, such as bentonite, colloidal silicon dioxide and microcrystalline cellulose, celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose, and guars such as hydroxypropyl guar.
[0285] In some embodiments, the thickening agent may be selected from associative thickening polymers such as anionic associative polymers, amphoteric associative polymers, cationic associative polymers, or nonionic associative polymers. A non-limiting example of an amphoteric associative polymer is beheneth-25 acrylate / methacrylate copolymer, and non-limiting examples of anionic associative polymers include acrylate copolymer and acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer.
[0286] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one thickening polymer selected from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides. The term "polysaccharides" refers to polymers containing at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferably, the polysaccharides of the invention comprise from 20 to 100,000 monosaccharide units. The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention preferably comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise any cationic or cationizable groups. Useful, but not limiting, anionic polysaccharides include those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; and / or anhydrogalactose sulfate.
[0287] According to a particular embodiment, the useful anionic polysaccharides according to the invention are selected from indigenous gums such as tree or shrub exudates, for example: acacia gum (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); tragacanth gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose); gums derived from algae, such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate); and / or microbial gums such as: gums xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).
[0288] According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides which are useful according to the invention are chosen from anionic gums, for example from anionic microbial gums, in particular from xanthan gums.
[0289] If present, the total amount of thickening agents may range from about 0.01% to about 8%, for example from about 0.05% to about 5%, from about 0.1% to about 4%, from about 0.2% to about 3%, or from about 0.3% to about 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0290] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of thickening polymers selected from polysaccharides, preferably anionic polysaccharides, when present, ranges from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from about 0.05% to about 8% by weight, in particular from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0291] In preferred embodiments, the total amount of anionic microbial gums, when present, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additives
[0292] The composition according to the invention may contain any commonly used adjuvant or additive other than the compounds described above.
[0293] Among the additives that may be contained in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of reducing agents (in particular selected from ammonium bisulfite, ammonium sulfite, potassium metabisulfite, potassium sulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, dehydroascorbic acid or their salts), softeners, antifoamers, moisturizers, UV filtering agents, peptizers, solubilizers, perfumes, anionic agents, cationic agents, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, anionic polymers other than anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polysaccharides or mixtures thereof, anti-linting agents, anti-seborrheic agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents,Mineral or organic thickeners, including polymer thickeners, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, and preservatives.
[0294] It goes without saying that a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, negatively affected by the envisaged addition(s).
[0295] The above additives can generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0296] According to various embodiments, the pH of the composition ranges from about 8 to about 13, for example from about 8.5 to about 12.5, from about 9 to about 12, from about 9.5 to about 12, from about 9.5 to about 11.5, from about 10 to about 12, from about 10.5 to about 12, from about 10.5 to about 11.5, or from about 10 to about 11.
[0297] The compositions described herein may be hair coloring compositions, hair coloring base compositions, hair lightening compositions, or compositions formed when a hair coloring base or a hair lightening composition is mixed with an oxidizing composition. For example, an oxidative hair dye base composition or a hair bleaching / highlighting composition may not include an oxidizing agent but may be mixed at or near the time of use with an oxidizing composition comprising a chemical oxidizing agent as described herein. In some embodiments, the compositions are free or substantially free of direct dyes and / or oxidative dye compounds and may be considered "clear" base compositions.
[0298] Oxidizing compositions (also known as developer compositions) typically comprise at least one oxidizing agent, most commonly hydrogen peroxide, and a carrier, most commonly including water. Other components are often present in the oxidizing composition, for example, surfactants, particularly nonionic surfactants, rheology modifiers, chelators, fatty substances, ceramides, pH adjusters, preservatives, etc. In addition, other oxidizing agents may be present in addition to or instead of hydrogen peroxide, such as those described above, and non-aqueous solvents may also be present.Generally, the total amount of oxidizing agent in the oxidizing composition varies from about 1% to about 30%, for example, from about 1% to about 20%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 1% to about 12%, from about 3% to about 20%, from about 3% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 12%, from about 5% to about 20%, from about 5% to about 15%, from about 5% to about 12%, from about 7% to about 20%, from about 7% to about 15%, from about 7% to about 12%. from approximately 9% to approximately 20%, from approximately 9% to approximately 15%, or from approximately 9% to approximately 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. The pH of the oxidizing composition is typically less than 7, and can range from approximately 1 to approximately 6, such as from approximately 2 to approximately 5.
[0299] An exemplary oxidizing composition may be aqueous and comprise hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, wherein the hydrogen peroxide is present in the aqueous oxidizing composition in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 20%, for example, from about 7% to about 15%, from about 8% to about 13%, from about 8% to about 10%, from about 9% to about 13% or from about 10% to about 12%, for example, from about 7%, about 8%, about 9%, about 10%, about 11%, about 12%, about 13%, about 14% or about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition can therefore be, for example, a developer composition based on 10V, 20V, 30V or 40V hydrogen peroxide.
[0300] Typically, an oxidizing hair dye base or a hair lightening (bleach / highlight) composition is mixed with an oxidizing composition at or near the time of use. The mixing ratio may vary, for example, from about 1:5 to about 5:1, or from about 1:4 to about 4:1, from about 1:3 to about 3:1, or from about 1:2 to about 2:1, or may be about 5:1, about 4:1, about 3:1, about 2:1, about 1.5:1, about 1:1, about 1:1.5, about 1:2, about 1:3, about 1:4, or about 1:5 (dye base or lightening composition relative to the oxidizing composition). II. PROCESSES
[0301] The disclosure also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which a composition according to the disclosure is applied to the keratin fibers. The processes may be hair color modification processes, for example by dyeing or lightening the hair, and / or processes for reducing hair damage in hair color modification processes, providing hair strength in hair color modification processes, enabling hair fibers to maintain their integrity in hair color modification processes, and / or reducing hair elasticity in hair color modification processes.
[0302] In various embodiments, the processes include mixing a composition as disclosed with an oxidizing composition at or near the time of use in order to permanently dye hair. For example, the processes may include mixing of a composition as disclosed which comprises one or more oxidative dye compounds (e.g. one or more oxidation bases and one or more couplers) with an oxidizing composition such as an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-based developer composition at a mixing ratio of 3:1 to 1:3, such as 2:1 to 1:2, the application of the mixture to the hair, leaving the mixture on the hair for a desired processing time and then removing the mixture from the hair in order to dye the hair permanently.
[0303] In various embodiments, the processes include mixing a composition as disclosed with an oxidizing composition at or near the time of use for the purpose of lightening hair. For example, the processes may include mixing a composition as disclosed that contains one or more persalts (e.g., sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate, and / or ammonium persulfate) with an oxidizing composition such as an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-based developer composition at a mixing ratio of 3:1 to 1:3, such as 2:1 to 1:2, applying the mixture to the hair, leaving the mixture on the hair for a desired processing time, and then removing the mixture from the hair, wherein the process is a hair lightening (bleaching or highlighting) process.
[0304] The composition as disclosed can be used on wet or dry hair, and also on all hair types, including natural or dyed, permanently curled, bleached, or straightened hair. Given the beneficial effects obtained with the compositions as disclosed, it is possible to dye or lighten even hair that has been previously damaged by other chemical treatments.
[0305] The composition can be applied to the hair and left to act for a desired period of time, for example from about 10 minutes to about 2 hours, for example from about 15 minutes to about 1.5 hours, from about 20 minutes to about 60 minutes, or from about 30 minutes to about 45 minutes.
[0306] After applying the composition to the hair and leaving the composition to act on the hair, the composition can be removed, for example the hair can be washed with shampoo and / or rinsed with water.
[0307] In addition to excellent benefits in terms of hair colour and / or lightening, hair treated with compositions and processes as disclosed exhibits less damage than hair not treated with compositions and processes as disclosed. Treated hair may also exhibit lower elasticity and / or higher tensile strength than hair that is similarly dyed and / or lightened but not with compositions as disclosed.
[0308] After describing in detail the numerous embodiments of the present invention, it will become apparent that modifications and variations are possible without departing from the scope of the disclosure defined in the appended claims. Furthermore, it should be noted that all the examples in this disclosure, while illustrating numerous embodiments of the disclosure, are provided by way of non-limiting examples and should therefore not be considered as limiting the various aspects thus illustrated. It should be understood that all definitions herein are provided only for this disclosure.
[0309] In this application, the use of the singular includes the plural unless specifically stated otherwise. The singular forms "a," "an," "the," "the," and "at least one" are understood to encompass both the plural and the singular, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. The expression "one or more" means "at least one" and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations. Similarly, the expression "one of their / her salts" also refers to "their / her salts."Thus, when the disclosure refers to "an element chosen from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, one of their salts or mixtures thereof", it indicates that one or more elements from A, B, C, D and F may be included, that one or more salts from a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included, or that a mixture of any two elements from A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E and a salt of F may be included.
[0310] The expression "and / or" should be understood as including both the conjunctive and the disjunctive. For example, "amino acids and / or their salts" means "amino acids and their salts" as well as "amino acids or their salts", and expressly covers either one or the other.
[0311] In this document, the term "salts" throughout the disclosure may include salts containing a counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium counterion. This list of counterions, however, is not exhaustive. Salts also include a dissociated form of a compound, for example, in an aqueous solution.
[0312] As used herein, the expressions “and mixtures thereof”, “and mixtures of two or more of these”, “and one of their mixtures”, “and their combinations”, “and one of their combinations”, “and combinations of two or more of these”, “or their mixtures”, “or one of their mixtures”, “or their combinations”, “or combinations of two or more of these”, “or one of their combinations”, and similar expressions are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as “A, B, C, D, or mixtures thereof”, means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, B, C, D, among A + B, among A + B + C, among A + D, among A + C + D, etc., without limitation on their variations. Thus, the components can be used individually or in any combination thereof.
[0313] Unless expressly stated otherwise, "approximately" means + / - 5%.
[0314] As used here, if a component is described as being present "in an amount less than or equal to" a certain amount, it is expected that this component will be present in the composition, namely, present in an amount greater than 0%.
[0315] All quantities indicated here are relative to the quantity of active material, unless otherwise stated.
[0316] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of the compositions in this disclosure, unless otherwise stated.
[0317] In this application, the terms "keratin fibres" and "hair" are used interchangeably without being intended to be restrictive. A person skilled in the art will understand that keratin fibres include hair, such as hair growing from the scalp.
[0318] As used herein, the expression "apply a composition to the hair," and its variations, is intended to refer to bringing the hair into contact with at least one of the compositions in the disclosure, in any manner whatsoever. It may also refer to bringing the hair into contact with an effective quantity.
[0319] The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of the hair. The expression "hair treatment" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein also refers to bringing the hair into contact with the compositions of this disclosure.
[0320] Unless otherwise defined for any specific embodiment, the expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that there is less than about 5% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, compositions may include less than about 4%, less than about 3%, less than about 2%, less than about 1.5%, less than about 1%, less than about 0.5%, less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.01%, less than about 0.001%, or less than about 0.0001% of the specified material. A composition "free" of a component is intended to contain none of the specified components. However, it is understood that the expressions "free" and "substantially free" refer to the amount of a component added to the composition, without including an amount of the component present in the composition as a minor component in a raw material.
[0321] The following examples are intended to illustrate embodiments of this disclosure but are not intended to be exhaustive. It will be obvious to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made to the compositions and processes of the invention without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Therefore, this disclosure is intended to cover modifications and variations that fall within the scope of the appended claims and their equivalents. EXAMPLES
[0322] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the Examples, unless otherwise indicated, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active substances, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1 - Compositions
[0323] Compositions 1A-1F according to the disclosure were prepared as indicated in Table 1.
[0324] [Tables 1] IA IB IC 1D 1E Glycine betaine 2.0 2.0 2.0 4.0 Glycine 2.0 Surfactants (oleic acid, coco glucoside, and / or cetearyl glucoside) 4.6 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 Ammonium hydroxide 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Ethanolamine 12.2 1.6 1.6 1.6 0.6 Fatty compounds (shea butter, xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol and / or oleyl alcohol) 19.2 23.2 23.2 23.2 23.2 Ascorbic acid 0.25 Tetrasodium glutamate and diacetate 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 Citric acid 2.0 2.0 Sodium metabisulfite 0.7 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100
[0325] Compositions 1A-1E can be mixed with an oxidizing composition, for example a 20V, 30V, or 40V hydrogen peroxide-based developer, and applied to the hair for lightening purposes. The mixture can be left on the hair for a desired period and then rinsed out.
[0326] In addition, compositions 1A-1E may include one or more oxidative dye compounds and / or one or more direct dye compounds. By way of example, such variations on compositions 1A-1E may include 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, p-aminophenol, 1-hydroxyethyl 4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate, toluene 2,5-diamine, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, or combinations of two or more of these. The composition may be mixed with an oxidizing composition, for example, a 20V, 30V, or 40V hydrogen peroxide-based developer, and applied to the hair to color the hair. The mixture may be left on the hair for a desired period and then removed by rinsing.
[0327] Example 2 - Evaluation of the benefits to hair
[0328] In order to evaluate the benefits of hair treatment with compositions according to the disclosure, comparative C1-C3 compositions indicated in Table 2 were prepared.
[0329] [Tables2] Cl C2 C3 Surfactants (oleic acid, coco glucoside, and / or cetearyl glucoside) 4.6 3.2 3.2 Ammonium hydroxide 4.5 4.6 Ethanolamine 12.2 1.6 0.6 Fatty compounds (shea butter, xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol and / or oleyl alcohol) 19.2 23.2 23.2 Ascorbic acid 0.25 Tetrasodium glutamate and diacetate 0.24 0.24 0.24 Citric acid 1.0 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100
[0330] In order to evaluate the benefits to hair from the use of compositions according to the disclosure, the following studies were carried out.
[0331] First, compositions IA and Cl were mixed separately with a commercially available aqueous hydrogen peroxide 20V developer composition at a mixing ratio of 1:1. Each mixture was applied to identical strands of natural hair, left to act at room temperature for 35 minutes, and the strands were then rinsed, shampooed with a commercially available shampoo, and dried.
[0332] Once the strands were dry, the hair was cut into microscopic pieces, and 50 µg of each strand was weighed and placed in the sample tray of a TA Discovery DSC 2500 instrument (crimped and sealed tray). After 24 hours in the tray, the instrument was equilibrated at 40 °C, and the sample was analyzed up to 180 °C at a ramp rate of 10 °C per minute. Finally, the denaturation temperature of each sample was measured ([Fig. 2]).
[0333] Fig. 2 shows that the denaturation temperature of the sample treated with composition IA was approximately one degree Celsius higher than that of the sample treated with composition Cl. This result, which was considered statistically significant, demonstrates that the hair treated with composition IA according to the disclosure exhibited surprisingly increased strength and integrity compared to the hair treated with the comparative composition.
[0334] The procedure was repeated using compositions 1B-1E and C2-C3. Figure 3 shows the DSC results obtained. As shown in Figure 3, the denaturation temperatures of the samples treated with compositions 1B-1E were more than one full degree Celsius higher than those of the sample treated with compositions C2 and C3, with compositions IB and C1C providing an increase of more than three degrees Celsius. These results are also considered statistically significant and confirm that hair treated with compositions according to disclosure has remarkably increased strength and integrity compared to hair treated with compositions not in accordance with disclosure.
[0335] Example 2 thus demonstrates that the hair color-modifying compositions according to the disclosure provide surprisingly increased fiber strength and integrity compared to traditional hair color-modifying compositions. Although it is known that hair color-modifying compositions generally damage the hair, the increased denaturation temperature observed in hair treated with compositions according to the disclosure confirms that the presence of osmolytes in the hair color-modifying compositions surprisingly and unexpectedly minimizes and / or prevents such damage, provides hair strength, and allows the fibers capillaries to maintain their integrity in the hair color modification processes. Example 3 - Comparative studies
[0336] The AF compositions in Table 3 can be prepared for further comparative studies.
[0337] [Tables3] ABCDEF Glycine betaine 2.00 2.00 2.00 Glycine betaine hydrochloride 2.00 2.00 2.00 Surfactants (oleic acid and / or coco glucoside) 4.57 4.57 4.57 4.57 4.57 4.57 Ammonium hydroxide 3.08 3.36 1.82 Ethanolamine 12.2 12.2 1.63 12.2 1.65 1.50 Fatty compounds (shea butter, xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol and / or oleyl alcohol) 19.2 19.2 19.2 19.2 19.2 19.2 Ascorbic acid 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Glutamate and tetrasodium diacetate 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 Lactic acid 1.80 1.80 Sodium metabisulfite 0.71 0.71 0.71 0.71 0.71 0.71 Solvents (water and non-aqueous solvents) Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100 Qs per 100
[0338] The compositions in Table 3 can be used to study the impact that the quantities and types of osmolytes, alkaline agents and carboxylic acids have on the benefits conferred to the hair and / or the properties of the compositions.
Claims
Demands
1. Hair treatment composition comprising: a) at least one hair colour modifying agent; b) at least one osmolyte; c) at least one alkali agent; d) optionally, at least one compound selected from carboxylic acids or their salts; and e) at least one solvent.
2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein a) the hair colour modifying agent is selected from oxidative dye compounds, oxidizing agents or combinations of two or more of these.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, comprising b) at least one osmolyte selected from: carbohydrate sugars, preferably from C3-C6 monosaccharides, more preferably pentoses, hexoses, their derivatives or combinations of two or more of these; polyamines, preferably selected from diamines, triamines, tetramines, pentamines, or combinations of two or more of these; amino acids, preferably selected from arginine, glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these;or betaines, preferably selected from compounds of formula (I), more preferably selected from zwitterionic amino acid derivatives bearing a quaternary ammonium group and comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and most preferably selected from valine betaine, glutamic acid betaine, glutamine betaine, trimethyllysine, glycine betaine, histidine betaine, N-methylhistidine betaine, alanine betaine, beta-alanine betaine, choline sulfate, pipecolic acid betaine, proline betaine, hydroxyproline betaine, tyrosine betaine, phenylalanine betaine, tryptophanine, leucine betaine, isoleucine betaine, their salts, or combinations of two or more of these: (Rl)(R2)(R3)m-A+-CR4R5-(X)nY(I) in which:; - RI, R2 and R3 are chosen independently from among the C1-C4 alkyl groups; - A is N or S; - m and n are independently 0 or 1; - X is a divalent C1-C6 alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH) or amino (-NH2); and - Y is -COO- or -OSO3-; provided that: • when A is S, then m = 0 and R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic (C1-C10) hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2;• when A is N and m = 0, R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated alkyl, linear or branched (in C1-C8), and R5 forms, with the nitrogen atom, a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 ring members, optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or alkyl (in C1-C4); and • when A is N and m = 1, then R4 and R5 are independently chosen from a hydrogen atom or a saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon chain (including aromatic and polycyclic chains) (in C1-C10), optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from -S-, -N=, -NH-, or -C(NH)-, and / or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (-OH), amino (-NH2), -SH, -COOH, or -CONH2.;
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising b) at least one compound of formula (I), wherein: - RI and R2 are a methyl; - A is N; and / or - Y is COO-.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, comprising at least one alkali agent selected from ammonia, alkanolamines, or combinations of two or more of these, preferably comprising at least one alkanolamine, more preferably comprising monoethanolamine.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising (d) at least one compound selected from formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, caproic acid, enanthic acid, caprylic acid, lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, isocitric acid, aconitic acid, propane-1,2,3-tricarboxylic acid, their salts or combinations of two or more of these, preferably comprising citric acid, lactic acid, their salts or combinations of two or more of these.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising a) at least one oxidation dye compound, wherein the total amount of oxidation dye compounds ranges from about 0.0001% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.005% to about 7%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the total amount of osmolytes ranges from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 1% to about 8%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 1.5% to about 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the total amount of alkali agents ranges from about 0.1% to about 30%, preferably from about 1% to about 25%, more preferably from about 2% to about 20%, most preferably from about 3% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. A process for treating keratin fibers, the process comprising: (i) applying to the keratin fibers a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9; and (ii) rinsing the hair.