Method of manufacturing a footwear item, in particular for the practice of a sport, and footwear item that can be obtained by said manufacturing method, in particular for the practice of a sport.
The method simplifies footwear manufacturing by thermo-compressing textile tubular elements and woven layers to create a lightweight, recyclable athletic shoe with localized reinforcement, addressing complexity and recyclability issues in conventional processes.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- FR2024005231
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-22
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-28
AI Technical Summary
Conventional footwear manufacturing processes are complex, energy-intensive, and produce significant waste, while athletic shoes require materials that provide localized rigidity, rebound, and recyclability, often using non-compatible materials that complicate recycling.
A method involving a footwear assembly with textile tubular elements and a sole structure assembly, comprising heat-fusible and non-heat-fusible woven textile layers, is thermo-compressed to form a lightweight sole with localized reinforcement, using a mold to integrate the layers without sewing, facilitating recycling.
The method reduces manufacturing steps, enhances rebound and recyclability, and allows for localized functionalization, resulting in a lightweight athletic shoe with improved performance and reduced environmental impact.
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Method for manufacturing a footwear item, particularly for sports, and footwear item obtainable by said manufacturing method, particularly for sports. Technical field
[0001] Conventional footwear generally comprises an upper and a sole structure. The upper is secured to the sole structure and forms a cavity within the footwear to comfortably receive and secure a foot. The sole structure is secured to a lower area of the upper and is positioned between the ground and the upper. In athletic footwear, the sole structure may include an outsole and a midsole. The midsole often comprises a polymer foam material that absorbs shocks from the ground upon impact to mitigate the effects on the foot and leg during walking, running, or other ambulatory activities. The sole structure may also include a lining positioned near the underside of the foot to enhance the comfort of the footwear.The soles are traditionally attached to the uppers using a construction method called the Strobel method, during which the various sole components (insole, midsole, and outsole, in particular) are joined. The manufacturing processes for a classic shoe require dozens of steps and produce a significant amount of waste from material cutting.
[0002] The aim is therefore to simplify the manufacturing processes for footwear, particularly by reducing the number of steps and / or energy and material consumption. This issue also relates to the search for a manufacturing process that can be implemented as close as possible to the point of use of the footwear in order to reduce its carbon footprint, facilitate inventory management, and allow for the personalization of the footwear.
[0003] One solution is to eliminate the sewing steps required to shape the initially flat stem into three dimensions. The stem is obtained by assembling one or a few pieces, rather than multiple pieces joined together by sewing.
[0004] WO 2019 / 234374A1 describes a method for manufacturing a footwear article in which the outsole is arranged between the sole sections of two textile socks that are wholly or partially heat-fusible. This arrangement notably improves resistance to delamination between the outsole and the upper. by reducing the number of steps in the manufacturing process compared to a conventional process with a strobel-type setup.
[0005] WO 2021 / 170682A1 describes a method for manufacturing a footwear article in which the outsole is formed by one or more textile element(s) that are at least partially heat-fusible and molded by thermocompression.
[0006] These manufacturing processes make it possible to obtain a thermo-compressed shoe assembly drastically reducing the number of manufacturing steps of a shoe.
[0007] However, a thermofused polyurethane textile portion alone of a tubular textile element does not allow for providing satisfactory localized rigidity in the sole, in particular does not allow for obtaining the mechanical properties expected for an athletic shoe, in particular of rebound and / or deformation.
[0008] Furthermore, thermocompression molding of the heat-fusible textile material can also produce compact structures which, when used in a sole structure, are too rigid and do not provide sufficient rebound.
[0009] For the practice of an activity such as running or jumping, the shoe must be light, and provide rebound, i.e. a good rebound to improve the performance of the user.
[0010] Sprint shoes generally include spikes to improve support and possibly a carbon fiber reinforcement plate to provide rebound. The spikes are screwed into metal inserts embedded in the outer face of the outsole.
[0011] We know of the shoe marketed under the name METASPRINT comprising a carbon fiber plate, without spikes, which would thus allow one to gain approximately 500 thousandths of a second on a 100m race.
[0012] However, these shoes have the drawback that the carbon plates and metal inserts are made of materials different from the other materials forming the shoes, so it is necessary to separate the metal inserts from the soles, and possibly the carbon reinforcement plate when possible, in order to recycle the shoe. When the components cannot be separated, the shoe is discarded.
[0013] Furthermore, during manufacturing, it is necessary to use significant quantities of adhesives to bond the upper and the carbon fiber sole, in particular. These adhesives are polluting materials in shoe recycling processes because they cannot be separated from the components for recovery.
[0014] There is therefore a need for a manufacturing process for a footwear item, particularly suitable for athletics, that is lightweight and has good properties of relaunch, and support, and whose recycling is improved, even when it includes cleats, all while limiting the number of steps.
[0015] There is also a need to lighten footwear articles, while improving their comfort, allowing a wide range of possible functions (reinforcement, cushioning, hard toe, etc.), and this in a localized way on the volume of the footwear article, while retaining the properties of resistance to abrasion, delamination, flexibility, etc. usually sought. Description of the invention
[0016] The present invention relates, according to a first aspect, to a method for manufacturing a shoe, in particular for the practice of a sport, comprising the following steps: - (a) provide a footwear assembly: at least one textile tubular element comprising a textile part covering at least part of the dorsal surface of the foot and a textile sole part, said textile tubular element comprising one or more heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step (c) and optionally one or more non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step (c), and a sole structure assembly comprising a textile layer, in particular a woven textile layer, or several textile layers, in particular several woven textile layers, superimposed at least in part, and said textile layer(s) of the sole structure assembly comprising (in particular each) one or more textile portion(s), in particular woven, heat-fusible in step (c) and one or more textile portion(s), in particular woven, non-heat-fusible in step (c), the textile portion(s), in particular woven,non-heat-fusible components in step c) of the sole structure assembly represent at least 30% by mass or volume of the total mass or volume of said sole structure assembly; (b) dispose of said footwear assembly in a mold structure, including a partial overlay cavity covering at least part of the dorsal surface of the foot and a sole cavity cavity; and, (c) thermo-compress said footwear assembly so as to achieve the melting and / or softening of the thermofusible textile portions of said at least one tubular textile element and of the sole structure assembly; (d) demold said thermo-compressed footwear assembly comprising an upper and a sole.
[0017] Advantageously, the textile layer(s), particularly woven layer(s), enables the rebound and responsiveness of the sole and therefore of the shoe, while maintaining the advantages of a manufacturing process implementing at least one tubular textile element at least partly heat-fusible, thus limiting the manufacturing steps.
[0018] Furthermore, the textile layer(s), particularly the woven layer(s), is / are advantageously at least partially heat-fusible, which improves the recycling of the shoe and facilitates the implementation of the manufacturing process. Indeed, the textile reinforcement layer(s), particularly the woven layer(s), formed is / are perfectly bonded and integrated into the shoe.
[0019] Advantageously, the textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), is / are not in textile connection with a textile tubular element so that the functionalization is localized independently of the arrangement of a textile tubular element.
[0020] Advantageously, said sole structure assembly is independent of said at least one textile tubular element.
[0021] Advantageously, the sole structure assembly is independent of said at least one textile tubular element, in particular of any textile tubular element, in that said sole structure assembly is not in textile connection with said at least one textile tubular element, in particular the latter are not connected by means of at least one woven yarn or at least one knitted yarn of said at least one woven or knitted textile tubular element.
[0022] Advantageously, at least 30% by mass of the textile layer(s), in particular woven, is formed of non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step c) and which will therefore form a reinforcement structure comprising one or more textile reinforcement layer(s), in particular woven.
[0023] Advantageously, at least 30% by mass of the entire sole structure is formed of non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step c) and which will therefore form a reinforcement structure comprising one or more layers of textile reinforcement, in particular woven.
[0024] In particular, each textile layer, especially woven, thermo-compressed forms a textile reinforcement layer, especially woven.
[0025] The inventors have determined that the combination of textile layer(s), preferably woven, in a footwear assembly as described above makes it possible to form a lightweight sole, with excellent rebound / rebound, and this in a localized manner while improving recyclability.
[0026] Advantageously, the heat-fusible textile portion(s) during step c) (in particular of one or more tubular textile element(s) and / or of the sole structure assembly or of the footwear assembly) each has a melting or softening temperature lower than the heating temperature Te during step c) of thermocompression.
[0027] Advantageously, the non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) (in particular of one or more textile tubular element(s) or of the sole structure assembly or of the footwear assembly) each has a melting or softening temperature, or a degradation temperature (if the portion is not thermoplastic), higher than the heating temperature Te during step c) of thermocompression.
[0028] Preferably, the mold structure includes a preform in the shape of substantially a foot, in particular inflatable, and an external mold structure including an impression of a part covering at least part of the dorsal face of the foot and an impression of the sole.
[0029] Advantageously, step c) of thermocompression includes heating the footwear assembly to a temperature enabling the melting and / or softening of the textile portions configured to be heat-fusible during step c) and the application of pressure (for example, in the range of 2 to 5 bars), in particular by inflating the preform in the shape substantially of a foot (in particular in a flexible material, for example in silicone).
[0030] Advantageously, the footwear assembly is arranged between the preform, which is substantially foot-shaped, and the external mold structure. In particular, the preform, which is substantially foot-shaped, is arranged within the volume that accommodates a foot of the textile tubular element(s), especially if they are superimposed. Tubular textile element(s)
[0031] The footwear assembly (or the shoe) may include one or more textile tubular element(s), for example a first textile tubular element and a second textile tubular element, and possibly a third textile tubular element and / or a fourth textile tubular element.
[0032] In this text, the term "textile tubular element" refers to a first, second, third, or fourth textile tubular element. Thus, any characteristic described with reference to a textile tubular element described in this text applies to a first, second, third, and / or fourth textile tubular element(s).
[0033] A tubular textile element includes one or more thermofusible textile portion(s) during step c) (or one or more thermofused textile portion(s) in the case of the thermocompressed footwear assembly and / or the shoe).
[0034] A tubular textile element comprises a textile sole part and a textile part covering at least part, or totally, the dorsal face of the foot.
[0035] A textile tubular element can be a knitted, woven or non-woven tubular element or a combination thereof.
[0036] Preferably, a textile tubular element is a knitted tubular element with picked stitches or chain stitches, in particular with picked stitches.
[0037] Preferably, a tubular textile element is knitted on a circular knitting machine, in particular one of small diameter (i.e., whose diameter is between 5 cm and 20 cm, in particular between 5 cm and 15 cm), for example a sock knitting machine.
[0038] The said tubular textile element(s) can also be knitted on a small-diameter knitting machine comprising a single circular bed, in particular enabling an intarsia knitting technique. Said circular bed comprises at least four circular bed sections configured to knit yarns independently of each other. This could be, for example, the knitting machine called the "Single cylinder Argyle machine, X-machine" marketed by Santoni.
[0039] Preferably, a textile tubular element is a bent textile tubular element, in particular a sock. For example, the bent textile part corresponds to a heel reception area.
[0040] Preferably, a textile tubular element includes a foot-receiving cavity and a foot insertion opening for inserting the foot into the foot-receiving cavity. Preferably, a textile tubular element, particularly one of unit textile construction, includes an open toe, or a through-opening arranged in the textile sole portion. In particular, the open toe, or said through-opening in the textile sole portion, is closed, in particular by a seam, a weld (for example, by ultrasound), or a combination thereof.
[0041] Preferably, the open toe end is a toe reception area.
[0042] In a first embodiment, the footwear assembly, or shoe, comprises a first tubular textile element and a second tubular textile element joined by a textile bond, particularly by a knitted bond, especially at their foot openings or at their open toes. In particular, the toes are closed, notably by a seam, a weld, or a combination thereof. Specifically, the first and second tubular textile elements are of unitary construction, particularly of unitary knitted construction. Indeed, the first and second tubular textile elements are made from a single piece of textile, particularly knitted, produced on a textile loom, particularly a knitting machine.
[0043] In a second embodiment (possibly in combination with the first embodiment), the footwear assembly, or the shoe, comprises a first textile tubular element and a second textile tubular element disposed in the foot-receiving void of the first textile tubular element.
[0044] Advantageously, the shoe, or footwear assembly, comprises first and second superimposed tubular elements.
[0045] Preferably, the textile sole part of a tubular textile element covers at least part, possibly totally, the plantar surface of the foot or the underside of the foot.
[0046] Preferably, the textile sole part of a textile tubular element includes a forefoot region, a midfoot region, and a rearfoot region.
[0047] Preferably, the textile covering part of the dorsal face of the foot includes a forefoot region, a midfoot region and a hindfoot region.
[0048] Preferably, the textile covering part of the dorsal face of the foot of a tubular textile element covers all or part of the dorsal face of the foot or the top of the foot.
[0049] Preferably, a textile tubular element comprises an open front end or open toe, in particular one that is closed, more particularly closed by sewing and / or welding (for example, by ultrasound). Preferably, the open front end is a toe-receiving area.
[0050] Advantageously, a textile tubular element comprises one or more yarn(s), and in particular one or more yarn(s) not heat-fusible at least in part during step c) or not heat-melted at least in part (i.e. in the shoe), and / or one or more yarn(s) heat-fusible at least in part during step c) or heat-melted at least in part (i.e. in the shoe).
[0051] Preferably, a textile tubular element comprises one or more monofilament yarns and / or one or more multifilament yarns and / or one or more spun yarns of fibers. The yarn(s) may be those described below. Preferably, a textile tubular element comprises an outer face and an inner face, in particular substantially opposite. Preferably, the outer face of a textile tubular element, or of a first textile tubular element, is oriented towards the outside of the shoe.
[0052] In one embodiment, the shoe or footwear set comprises first and second tubular textile elements, the second tubular element being disposed in the foot-receiving volume of the first tubular element, and the inner face of the first tubular element is oriented towards the outer face of the second tubular textile element, in particular at least a part of the outer face of the first tubular element is at least a part of the outer face of the upper.
[0053] Advantageously, a textile tubular element may include one or more thermofusible textile portion(s) during step c), or thermomelted (i.e. in the shoe), arranged according to one or more particular zone(s) of the part covering at least part of the dorsal face of the foot of said textile tubular element. In one embodiment, a textile tubular element comprises at least one textile tubular member in textile bond, in particular knitted bond, with an opening of said textile tubular element, for example in bond with a foot entry opening or a toe exit opening or a through opening arranged in the textile sole portion of said textile tubular element. Preferably, said textile tubular member comprises one or more heat-fusible yarns, at least partially in step c), or at least partially heat-fused yarns within the footwear.
[0054] Said textile tubular member is folded against the inner or outer face of the textile tubular element in its forefoot region so as to form a hard front end or in its rearfoot region to form a heel counter.
[0055] Said textile tubular member may be a textile housing comprising a functional part (a foam, a film, a pad,...) disposed in said housing.
[0056] In one embodiment, the footwear article classically comprises a back support and / or a front toe.
[0057] Textile portion(s) - heat-fusible during step c), or heat-melted following step c) in the shoe (in particular for a tubular textile element, a textile layer (in particular woven), or the entire sole structure)
[0058] Advantageously, a thermofusible textile portion in step c), or thermomelted (i.e. in the shoe), is a part of a yarn or several yarn(s) that is thermofusible in step c), or thermomelted, in particular so that said portion retains a recognizable textile structure (e.g. the yarn(s) being glued together, and / or the yarn(s) being glued to one or more other yarn(s), and / or is / are stiffened), or forms a polymer film or coating or a polymeric molten material such as a binder (in particular the textile structure is no longer recognizable).
[0059] Advantageously, in all cases, a change of state is observed in the thermofusible textile portion which has been thermomelted, in particular allowing the bonding of threads together, and / or the formation of a polymer film or coating or a binder or matrix, and / or the stiffening of the thread(s), in order to retain the shape imparted during thermocompression molding and to form differentiated technical zones.
[0060] Advantageously, a heat-fusible textile portion during step c), or a heat-melted portion, can be a portion: - of a single-component, heat-fusible monofilament yarn (during step c), or thermally melted (i.e., in the shoe), or of a two-component monofilament yarn comprising at least a first component that is either heat-fusible in step c), or heat-melted (i.e., in the shoe), and at least a second component that is not heat-fusible in step c), or not heat-melted (i.e., in the shoe), as defined in the context of the present invention, or - of a multifilamentary yarn comprising one or more single-component filament(s) that are hot-melt in step c), or hot-melt (i.e. in the shoe), or two-component, each filament comprising at least one first component that is hot-melt in step c), or hot-melt (i.e. in the shoe), and at least one second component that is not hot-melt in step c), or not hot-melt (i.e. in the shoe), as defined in the context of the present invention, possibly mixed with one or more single-component filament(s) that are not hot-melt in step c), or not hot-melt (i.e. in the shoe).
[0061] For example, a single-component hot-melt wire in step c) of thermocompression is a multifilament or monofilament polyurethane wire, for example having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 80°C and less than or equal to 180°C, in particular less than or equal to 160°C, possibly less than or equal to 120°C.
[0062] For example, a single-component, heat-fusible yarn in step c) of thermocompression is a multifilament or monofilament yarn made of polyester (PET), for example having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 80°C and less than or equal to 180°C.
[0063] For example, a two-component wire that is at least partially hot-melt during step c) of thermocompression is a multifilament or monofilament wire comprising one or more filaments, each of which is of the core-mantle or side-by-side type, that is to say, comprising a mantle, or a side, comprising said first component having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 80°C and less than or equal to 180°C, in particular less than or equal to about 120°C, and a core, or a side, comprising said second component, in particular having a melting or softening temperature greater than that of the first component, for example greater than or equal to 150°C, or greater than or equal to 190°C, or even greater than or equal to 210°C or 250°C.
[0064] The said hot-melt wire(s) at least in part during step c), or hot-melt wire(s) at least in part, single-component or two-component, have (each) preferably a linear mass ranging from 300 dtex to 1200 dtex, in particular ranging from about 400 dtex to about 800 dtex, in particular ranging from about 600 dtex to about 700 dtex.
[0065] Preferably, the said hot-melt wire(s) at least in part during step c), hot-melted at least in part, is / are one or more single-component multifilament wire(s).
[0066] Preferably, the said multifilamentary wire(s) which are at least partially hot-melted in step c), or at least partially hot-melted, single-component or two-component, each have an elongation at break greater than or equal to 80% or 100%, more preferably greater than or equal to 115%, preferably less than or equal to 200%.
[0067] Yarn(s) of a tubular textile element and / or a textile layer, in particular woven, of the sole structure assembly
[0068] Advantageously, the textile tubular element(s), and / or the textile layer(s) (of the sole structure assembly), in particular woven, comprises (in particular each): - one or more wires at least partially heat-fusible during step c), or at least partially heat-fused; and / or - one or more wires not heat-fusible at least in part during step c), or at least in part not heat-fused.
[0069] The wire(s) may be of different colors or of the same color, possibly transparent or opaque.
[0070] The textile tubular element(s), and / or the textile layer(s) of the sole structure assembly, may include one or more monofilamentary yarn(s) (in particular heat-fusible at least in part during step c), and / or non-heat-fusible at least in part during step c)) preferably having a diameter greater than or equal to 0.01 mm and less than or equal to 5 mm, more preferably a diameter greater than or equal to 0.1 mm and less than or equal to 2 mm.
[0071] The textile tubular element(s), and / or the textile layer(s), may comprise one or more multifilamentary yarn(s) and / or one or more spun fiber yarn(s) and / or one or more monofilamentary yarn(s), in particular at least partly non-heat-fusible or at least partly non-thermally melted, preferably having a count greater than or equal to 10 dtex and less than or equal to 1000 dtex, more preferably greater than or equal to 30 dtex and less than or equal to 500 dtex.
[0072] The textile tubular element(s), and / or the textile layer(s) of the sole structure assembly, and / or the textile reinforcement layer(s), may comprise one or more monofilament yarn(s) and / or spun fiber yarn(s) and / or multifilament yarn(s) (in particular, not at least partially heat-fused or not at least partially heat-fusible in step c); or at least partially heat-fused or at least partially heat-fusible in part during step c)), which can be made of one or more material(s) chosen from: - a list I comprising: polyesters, in particular selected from polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) or a combination thereof; polyamides, in particular selected from PA 6, PA 6-6, and a combination thereof; polyolefins, in particular polyethylene, polypropylene, and a combination thereof; olefinic thermoplastic elastomers; elastanes; and a combination thereof; and / or - a list II including: cotton, regenerated cellulose, for example viscose, flax, sisal, wool, jute, silk, hemp, and a combination of the latter; - a list III including: para-aramids, meta-aramids, carbon, glass, in particular carbon and glass; and / or - a list IV including: recycled textiles, in particular recycled clothing, for example thermal protective clothing such as that for firefighters.
[0073] The material(s) listed in list I, and / or list II, and / or list III and / or list IV, can be recycled and / or bio-based at least in part.
[0074] Advantageously, the wire(s), not at least partly heat-fusible or not at least partly heat-melted, comprises, in particular is / are made up essentially of one or more polymer material(s) whose melting or degradation temperature is higher than the maximum temperature used in the manufacturing process of a shoe or in step c) of thermocompression.
[0075] The wire(s), in particular not thermally melted at least in part, may also be one or more elastic wire(s). Footwear / Footwear
[0076] Advantageously, the shoe, or footwear set includes an upper comprising (in particular formed from) the part(s) covering the dorsal face of the foot of the textile tubular element(s).
[0077] Advantageously, the shoe, or footwear assembly, includes a sole comprising (in particular formed of) the sole part(s) of the textile tubular element(s), and the sole structure assembly.
[0078] Advantageously, the shoe, or footwear assembly, includes a volume for receiving or accommodating the foot as well as an opening for introducing the foot for placing the foot in said volume for accommodating the foot.
[0079] Advantageously, the shoe, or footwear assembly, comprises a medial side and a lateral side.
[0080] Advantageously, the shoe, or footwear set, includes a forefoot region, a midfoot region and a rearfoot region, and optionally an instep region.
[0081] Advantageously, the shoe, or footwear assembly, includes a medial edge, extending on the medial side, and a lateral edge extending on the lateral side.
[0082] Advantageously, the shoe, or footwear assembly, includes a front edge and a rear edge, in particular extending between the medial and lateral sides.
[0083] Advantageously, the shoe, or footwear assembly, includes a central longitudinal axis L extending between its front and rear edges.
[0084] Advantageously, the shoe, or the footwear assembly, includes a transverse axis T extending between its medial and lateral sides, in particular substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis L.
[0085] In this text, the medial element / part / portion of the shoe / shoe assembly / tubular textile element / textile layer is understood to mean that said element / part / portion is disposed between the central longitudinal axis L of the shoe, or the shoe assembly, and the natural inner side of the foot or medial side of the shoe or shoe assembly.
[0086] In this text, the term lateral element / part / portion of the shoe / shoe assembly / tubular textile element / textile layer means that said element / part / portion is disposed between the central longitudinal axis L of the shoe, or the shoe assembly, and the natural external side of the foot or the lateral side of the shoe or the shoe assembly.
[0087] In one embodiment, the shoe, or footwear assembly, comprises one or more tubular textile element(s), and a sole structure assembly, having a total mass less than or equal to 180g, preferably less than or equal to 160g, even more preferably less than or equal to 130g, in particular for a size 43.
[0088] In one embodiment, at least 50% by mass, preferably at least 60% by mass or at least 70% by mass or at least 80% by mass, of the total mass of the shoe, or of the footwear assembly, comprises one or more materials chosen from: polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, and polyurethane. Foundation structure assembly
[0089] Advantageously, the sole structure assembly forms at least 50% by mass or volume, preferably at least 60% by mass or volume or at least 70% by mass or volume or at least 80% by mass or volume, or at least 90% by mass or volume, of the total mass or total volume of the sole of the shoe or footwear assembly.
[0090] Advantageously, the sole structure assembly forms a majority by mass, or by volume, of the total mass, or the total volume, of the sole of the shoe or of the footwear assembly.
[0091] Advantageously, one or more textile layer(s) is / are one or more textile layer(s) made of nonwoven fibers, one or more knitted textile layer(s), one or more woven layer(s), one or more braided layer(s), or a combination of the latter.
[0092] Advantageously, a woven textile layer, or a part or each of the woven layers, comprises warp yarns and weft yarns woven together.
[0093] Advantageously, the warp and / or weft yarns comprise non-heat-fusible warp and / or weft yarns at least in part during step c) and heat-fusible warp and / or weft yarns at least in part during step c).
[0094] Preferably, at least 50% by mass, more preferably at least 60% by mass or 70% by mass or 80% by mass or 90% by mass, of the total mass of the entire sole structure, or of the sole, is formed of a textile layer, in particular woven, or of several textile layer(s), in particular woven, superimposed at least in part.
[0095] Preferably, at least 50% by volume, more preferably at least 60% by volume or 70% by volume or 80% by volume or 90% by volume, of the total volume of the entire sole structure, or of the sole, is formed of a textile layer, in particular woven, or of several textile layer(s), in particular woven, superimposed at least in part.
[0096] Preferably, the heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step c) (or heat-melted portion(s)) which comprise(s) (possibly each) the textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), represent(s) at least 30% by mass or volume, or at least 40% by mass or volume, or even more preferably at least 50% by mass or volume, of the total mass or total volume of the entire sole structure, or of the sole.
[0097] Preferably, the non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step c) (or non-heat-melted) that comprise(s) (possibly each) the textile layer(s), in particular woven, represent(s) at least 30%, or at least 40%, more preferably at least 50%, of the total mass or total volume of the entire sole structure, or of the sole.
[0098] Preferably, the heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step c) (or heat-melted portion(s) comprising (possibly each) the textile layer(s), particularly woven layer(s), comprises at least one or more materials selected from: polyolefins (as described above, for example polypropylene or polyethylene); polyesters, such as the PET or PBT; polyurethanes, or a combination thereof, preferably chosen from: polyolefins (as described above, for example polypropylene or polyethylene), polyesters, or a combination thereof, preferably chosen from polyesters, such as PET or PBT.
[0099] Preferably, the heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step c) (or heat-melted portion(s)) which comprise(s) (possibly each) the textile layer(s), in particular woven, comprises at least one or more materials selected from low-density and / or low-tenacity and / or low-melting-point polyesters (e.g. polyethylene terephthalate (PET), or polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)), and low-density and / or low-tenacity and / or low-melting-point polyurethanes.
[0100] Preferably, the polyester, in particular PET or PBT, or polyurethane, with a low melting point has a melting temperature less than or equal to 180°C, in particular greater than or equal to 80°C or 110°C, in particular less than or equal to 160°C
[0101] Preferably, the non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step c) (or non-heat-melted) that comprise (possibly each) the textile layer(s), in particular woven, comprises one or more yarn(s) of polyester (e.g. PET and / or PBT) or polyethylene (e.g. high density or very high density), in particular high-tenacity and / or high-melting-point polyester.
[0102] Preferably, the polyester, in particular PET or PBT, with a high melting point has a melting temperature greater than or equal to 180°C, in particular greater than or equal to 230°C, more particularly greater than or equal to 240°C.
[0103] Preferably, the polyester, in particular PET or PBT, with high tenacity has a tenacity at break greater than or equal to 5 grams / dtex, in particular greater than or equal to 8 grams / dtex.
[0104] Advantageously, a textile layer, in particular woven, has a surface mass greater than or equal to 100 g / m2, preferably greater than or equal to 200 g / m2, even more preferably greater than or equal to 300 g / m2.
[0105] Advantageously, a textile layer, in particular woven, has a surface mass less than or equal to 700 g / m2, preferably less than or equal to 600 g / m2, even more preferably less than or equal to 500 g / m2.
[0106] Advantageously, a textile layer, in particular woven, has a surface mass of approximately 440 g / m2 + / - 50 g / m2.
[0107] Advantageously, the heat-fusible textile portion(s) of a textile layer, in particular woven, has a melting or softening temperature greater than or equal to 180°C and less than or equal to 210°C.
[0108] Advantageously, a textile layer, in particular woven, has a mass fraction in heat-fusible textile portion(s) at step c) greater than or equal to 40% and less than or equal to 60%.
[0109] Advantageously, a textile layer, in particular woven, has a mass fraction in non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) at step c) greater than or equal to 40% and less than or equal to 60%.
[0110] Advantageously, a woven layer comprises 5 to 15 warp threads per cm and / or 5 to 15 weft threads per cm.
[0111] In one example, the sole structure assembly, and / or at least one textile layer, in particular woven, comprises a forefoot region and / or a midfoot region, and / or a rearfoot region, possibly extending between the front and rear edges of the shoe and / or extending between the medial and lateral sides / edges: of the shoe and / or the footwear assembly and / or the sole.
[0112] In a first example, the sole structure assembly comprises one or more textile layers, in particular woven layers, extending in the forefoot, midfoot, and rearfoot regions of the sole between the front and rear edges and between the medial and lateral edges / sides of the footwear assembly and / or the shoe and / or the sole and / or the sole structure assembly. In this case, the textile layer(s), in particular woven layers, extend between the front and rear edges of the sole structure assembly and / or the shoe and / or the sole.
[0113] In a second example, possibly combined with the first example, the sole structure assembly comprises one or more textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), extending between the medial and lateral sides and in the forefoot and midfoot regions: of the footwear assembly and / or the shoe and / or the sole and / or the sole structure assembly.
[0114] In a third example, possibly combined with the first example and / or the second example, the sole structure assembly comprises one or more textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), extending in the rearfoot region and between the medial and lateral sides: of the footwear assembly and / or the shoe and / or the sole and / or the sole structure assembly.
[0115] Advantageously, the sole structure assembly, or the sole, has a thickness in its forefoot region that is greater than its thickness in its rearfoot or midfoot region.
[0116] Advantageously, the textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), and / or the entire sole structure, is / are not in textile connection, i.e. via a woven or knitted yarn, with a tubular textile element, in particular with its sole part.
[0117] Advantageously, the textile layer(s), particularly woven layer(s), and / or the entire sole structure, is / are independent of a textile tubular element; that is, the textile layer(s) and / or the entire sole structure is / are not of unitary textile construction with a textile tubular element. This arrangement allows for localized functionalization of the shoe sole independently of the textile tubular element(s).
[0118] In one embodiment, the sole structure assembly comprises one or more woven layers having a weave selected from a plain weave, a twill weave (for example 2 / 2), or a combination thereof.
[0119] For example, when the footwear assembly, or the shoe, includes a textile tubular element, the sole structure assembly can be arranged in the foot receiving void of the textile tubular element against the inner face of the textile sole part of the textile tubular element or against the outer face of the sole part of the textile tubular element, or the textile layers are distributed against the inner face and against the outer face of the textile sole part.
[0120] For example, when the footwear assembly, or the shoe, comprises first and second tubular textile elements, the sole structure assembly is preferably disposed between the textile sole part of the first tubular textile element and the textile sole part of the second tubular textile element, or it can be disposed against the inner face of the textile sole part of the second tubular textile element housed in the inner volume of the first tubular textile element, or it can be disposed against the outer face of the textile sole part of the first tubular textile element, or the textile layers can be distributed according to a combination of the aforementioned locations.
[0121] In one sub-embodiment, the sole structure assembly comprises a rearfoot region, a midfoot region and a forefoot region, and each of said regions comprises at least two or at least three or at least four textile layers, in particular woven, or at least six textile layers, in particular woven, or at least eight textile layers, in particular woven.
[0122] In one sub-embodiment, the sole structure assembly comprises a rearfoot region, a midfoot region and a forefoot region, and the rearfoot region comprises at least two textile layers, in particular woven, or at least three textile layers, in particular woven, or at least four textile layers, in particular woven, and the midfoot region and / or the forefoot region comprises (each) at least four textile layers, in particular woven, or at least six textile layers, in particular woven, or at least eight textile layers, in particular woven.
[0123] Preferably, the number of textile layers, in particular woven, in the midfoot region and / or in the forefoot region of the sole structure assembly is greater than or equal to, in particular twice, the number of textile layers, in particular woven, in the rearfoot region of the sole structure assembly.
[0124] Preferably, the sole structure assembly comprises at least three or at least four textile layers, in particular woven, more preferably at least six or at least eight textile layers, in particular woven.
[0125] Preferably, the sole structure assembly comprises at most 24 textile layers, more preferably at most 18 textile layers, for example between 8 textile layers and 14 textile layers.
[0126] In particular, said textile layers are arranged so as to extend between the medial and lateral edges, and in the forefoot, midfoot, and rearfoot regions, of the entire sole structure and / or the sole covering.
[0127] For example, a textile layer is a layer, in particular a woven layer, comprising glass fibers and hot-melt fibers at least in part, in particular fully hot-melt, in step c), made of polyester or polyolefin (for example PP or PE), in particular PET. Preferably, the glass fibers are multifilament fibers.
[0128] For example, a textile layer is a layer, in particular woven, comprising one or more carbon yarns, and one or more hot-melt yarns at least in part, in particular fully hot-melt, in step c), made of polyester or polyolefin (for example PP or PE), in particular PET.
[0129] For example, a textile layer is a layer, in particular woven, comprising one or more yarns of polyester or polyolefin that are not heat-fusible at least in part during step c), and one or more yarns that are heat-fusible at least in part, in particular fully heat-fusible, during step c), of polyester or polyolefin (for example in PP or PE), in particular in PET.
[0130] Preferably, the polyester or polyolefin yarns are monofilament yarns and / or multifilament yarns.
[0131] In a sub-variant, the sole structure assembly comprises one or more polymeric film(s) that are at least partially, in particular fully, thermofusible during step c), arranged between textile layers of the sole structure assembly.
[0132] This arrangement improves cohesion and resistance to delamination between thermo-compressed textile layers.
[0133] Preferably, the polymeric film(s) is / are (each) made of one or more materials selected from: polyesters, such as polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polybutylene terephthalate; polyurethane; polyolefins, such as Polypropylene and polyethylene, preferably polyurethane or PET or PBT or a mixture thereof.
[0134] In one embodiment, a thermo-compressed textile layer in step c) has a thickness greater than or equal to 0 mm and less than or equal to 5 mm, in particular less than or equal to 3 mm, more particularly less than or equal to 1 mm, for example on the order of 0.3 mm to within + / - 0.1 mm. Definitions
[0135] In this text, "heat-fusible" or "heat-fusible in step c)" means any portion / fraction / part or element with reference to the footwear assembly in the manufacturing process and "thermally melted" means any portion / part or element with reference to the shoe that has undergone step c) of thermocompression.
[0136] In this text, "heat meltable" or "heat meltable in step c)" means any portion / fraction / part or element of the footwear assembly, of a textile tubular element or of the sole structure assembly, which is intended to be melted or softened in step c) of thermocompression, in particular in the manufacturing process of the shoe.
[0137] In this text, "non-heat-fusible" or "non-heat-fusible in step c)" means any portion / fraction / part or element of the footwear assembly, a textile tubular element, or the sole structure assembly that is not intended to be melted or softened during step c) of thermocompression, and in particular in the footwear manufacturing process. This non-heat-fusible portion / part may or may not be thermoplastic.
[0138] In this text, "thermoplastic" means any portion / part / material / matrix polymer which can be softened or melted by heating for the purpose of its transformation in a thermoplastic material transformation process (e.g., thermocompression molding, extrusion molding, etc.), in particular which can be softened or melted by heating several times.
[0139] Elastic yarn is understood to mean any yarn whose elongation at break is greater than or equal to 100% or 200%, in particular greater than or equal to 300%, and especially greater than or equal to 400%. The elastic yarn preferably comprises an elastic core, in particular made of elastane, and optionally one or more cover yarns. The elongation may be measured using ASTM D 1578-93 (2016). By definition, the elastic yarn is not thermally melted and / or is not heat-fusible in step c).
[0140] In this text, "at least in part" means "a part" or "substantially the whole".
[0141] The polyolefin(s) for the sole and / or one or more yarns of textile tubular element(s) and / or one or more yarns of textile layer(s) and / or one or more polymer film(s), is / are chosen from polyolefin homopolymers, possibly grafted, polyolefin copolymers or terpolymers, possibly grafted.
[0142] Polyolefin copolymers comprise two olefin repeat units, optionally grafted.
[0143] Polyolefin terpolymers comprise three or more olefin repeat units, optionally grafted.
[0144] The olefinic repeating units preferably include units derived from alkenes, in particular from ethylene or propylene.
[0145] The polyolefin(s) used in the present invention is / are by definition thermoplastic(s).
[0146] The polyolefin(s) for the sole and / or one or more yarn(s) of textile tubular element(s) and / or one or more yarn(s) of textile layer(s) and / or one or more polymer film(s), is / are selected preferably from a list I comprising (in particular consisting of) polypropylene; polyethylene, in particular high-density polyethylene, very high-density polyethylene, low-density polyethylene, and very low-density polyethylene (LLDPE); polymethylpentene (PMP), polybutene-1 (PB-1), polyisobutene; preferably from polypropylenes and polyethylenes, in particular polyethylene is selected from high-density polyethylene, very high-density polyethylene, low-density polyethylene, and very low-density polyethylene (LLDPE).
[0147] The polyolefin lc(s) for the sole and / or one or more yarn(s) of textile tubular element(s) and / or one or more yarn(s) of textile layer(s) and / or one or more polymer film(s), may be selected from olefin-based mineral oils, such as poly-alpha-olefins, in particular those which are plasticizers of styrenic thermoplastic elastomers.
[0148] The polyolefin can be a bio-based or petroleum-based polyolefin, in particular bio-based, that is to say derived from renewable material(s), for example it can be a bio-based polyethylene derived from sugar cane.
[0149] Bio-based material is understood to mean any material derived from renewable material(s), as opposed to petroleum-based material.
[0150] One or more olefinic thermoplastic elastomer(s) for the sole and / or one or more yarn(s) of textile tubular element(s) and / or one or more yarn(s) of textile layer(s) and / or one or more polymer film(s) is / are selected from: - polyisobutylenes (PIB); and / or - ethylene, propylene, and diene terpolymers (EPDM); ethylene and propylene copolymers; ethylene and alpha-olefin copolymers, for example ethylene and butene copolymers or ethylene and octene, and a mixture thereof; preferably EPDM and ethylene-propylene copolymers; and / or - mixtures of a polyolefin, in particular polypropylene, with one or more non-vulcanized olefinic thermoplastic elastomer(s), and possibly one or more plasticizers (for example mineral or naphthenic or paraffinic oil(s)). The said thermoplastic olefinic elastomer(s) may be ethylene and propylene copolymers, ethylene, propylene and diene terpolymers, ethylene and alpha-olefin copolymers (for example ethylene and butene copolymers or ethylene and octene copolymers).
[0151] In the present text, thermoplastic polyurethanes are not considered to be vulcanized thermoplastic elastomers.
[0152] In one variant, the sole structure assembly includes, in addition to the textile layer(s), one or more thermofusible polymer film(s) during the thermocompression step c), in particular at least one polymer film is disposed between two textile layers.
[0153] This arrangement makes it possible to improve resistance to delamination between two adjacent textile layers.
[0154] Advantageously, said polymer film(s) is / are thermoplastic(s).
[0155] Preferably, the polymer film(s) is / are in one or more material(s) selected from: polyesters, in particular PET and / or PBT; polyurethanes, in particular thermoplastic polyurethane elastomers; polyolefins, in particular olefinic thermoplastic elastomers.
[0156] In one variant, the said textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), represent(s) at least 30%, or at least 40%, or at least 50%, by volume or mass, preferably at least 70% or 80% by volume or mass, of the total mass or total volume of said sole, or of the entire sole structure.
[0157] Advantageously, the sole is thin and compact, which helps to improve rebound and recovery properties.
[0158] In one variant, the mass fraction of textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), or the number of textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), in the forefoot region, and / or in the midfoot region, of the sole footprint is different from, in particular greater than or equal to, the mass fraction of textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), or the number of textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), in the rearfoot region of the sole footprint.
[0159] In one variant, the number of textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), or the mass fraction of textile layer(s), in particular woven layer(s), in the forefoot region and / or in the midfoot region, of the sole structure assembly is greater than or equal to, in particular twice, the number of textile layer(s), in particular woven, or the mass fraction of textile layer(s), in particular woven, in the rearfoot region of the entire sole structure.
[0160] In one variant, the mass fraction in heat-fusible textile portion(s) during step c) in a textile layer, in particular woven, in particular in the textile layer(s), is greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40% or 50%, more preferably less than or equal to 80% or 70%.
[0161] In one variant, the mass fraction in heat-fusible textile portion(s) during step c) of the sole structure assembly is greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40% or 50%, more preferably less than or equal to 80% or 70%.
[0162] In one variant, the mass fraction in non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) during step c) in a textile layer, in particular woven, in particular in the textile layer(s), is greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40% or 50%, more preferably less than or equal to 80% or 70%.
[0163] In one variant, the mass fraction of non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) in step c) in the sole structure assembly is greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40% or 50%, more preferably less than or equal to 80% or 70%.
[0164] These arrangements make it possible to form a self-reinforced sole comprising a polymer matrix and one or more layers of textile reinforcement forming a textile reinforcement embedded in said polymer matrix.
[0165] In one variant, the sole structure assembly in step a) comprises at least 50%, or at least 60%, or at least 70%, or at least 80% by mass of textile layer(s), in particular woven, and optionally of one or more thermofusible polymer film(s) at least in part during the thermocompression step c).
[0166] Advantageously, the sole structure assembly is essentially formed of woven layer(s), i.e. comprises about 100% by mass of textile layer(s), and optionally one or more hot-melt polymer film(s) during step c).
[0167] In one variant, a textile layer, in particular woven, comprises one or more non-heat-fusible yarn(s) in step c) selected from polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) yarns, glass yarns, carbon yarns, in particular PET and / or PBT yarns, in particular high-tenacity or high-melting-point polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns.
[0168] This arrangement makes it possible to obtain a rigid sole while offering good recovery and rebound properties and whose recyclability is improved.
[0169] In one variant, a textile layer, in particular woven, is a self-reinforced layer made of polyester(s) and / or polyolefin(s).
[0170] Advantageously, a self-reinforced layer in polyester(s) and / or polyolefin(s) is a self-reinforced layer in polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and / or polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) and / or polypropylene (PP) and / or polyethylene.
[0171] In particular, a self-reinforced layer in polyester(s), and / or in polyolefin(s), comprises (or is made up of) one or more textile portion(s), in particular woven, not heat-fusible in step c) in polyester(s), and / or in polyolefin(s), and one or more textile portion(s) heat-fusible in step c), in polyester(s), and / or in polyolefin(s).
[0172] Advantageously, a self-reinforced layer of polyester(s) or polyolefin(s) is a layer comprising at least 80% by mass, in particular at least about 95% by mass, relative to its total mass of polyester(s) and / or polyolefin(s).
[0173] In one variant, the sole structure assembly comprises at least one textile layer, in particular woven, comprising at least one housing, said housing comprising at least one heat-fusible textile portion during step c) of thermocompression, and the footwear assembly comprises at least one crampon receiving insert housed at least in part in said housing, said at least one crampon receiving insert being at least partly thermoplastic.
[0174] This arrangement facilitates the manufacture of a sole configured to receive cleats, in particular screwed into housings equipped with inserts including an internal thread.
[0175] Advantageously, after the thermocompression step c), the housing comprises a thermofused textile portion bonded with a thermofused thermoplastic portion of the receiving insert.
[0176] Advantageously, said at least one receiving insert of a crampon comprises one or more heat-fusible portion(s) during step c) of thermocompression.
[0177] Advantageously, the shoe or footwear set includes at least 2 or at least 4 studs or spikes, and at least 2 or at least 4 receiving inserts.
[0178] In addition, since the inserts are thermoplastic(s) at least in part, for example high tenacity polyester, the recyclability of the shoe is improved.
[0179] This arrangement also allows the inserts to be integrated during thermocompression molding and improves their resistance to delamination from the rest of the sole.
[0180] In one variant, the textile sole part of the textile tubular element includes at least one elastic yarn, in particular at least one elastane yarn.
[0181] This arrangement facilitates the placement of the tubular element in the mold structure, in particular around a foot-shaped preform.
[0182] In one variant, the textile sole part of the textile tubular element is knitted and includes loops, and the heat-fusible textile mass fraction during step c) of thermocompression of the textile sole part is greater than or equal to 50%, in particular greater than or equal to 80%.
[0183] This arrangement facilitates adhesion between the sole structure assembly and the sole portion of the textile tubular element during thermocompression molding. Resistance to delamination between the sole and the upper is also improved.
[0184] In one variant, at least 50% by mass, preferably at least 60% or 70% or 80% or 90% by mass, of the total mass of the footwear assembly, possibly of the molded or thermo-compressed footwear assembly, comprises one or more thermoplastic material(s) selected from: polyesters, in particular polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or a mixture thereof; polyurethanes, in particular polyurethane elastomers; polyolefins; olefinic thermoplastic elastomers; preferably selected from polyesters, in particular polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or a mixture thereof; polyurethanes, in particular polyurethane elastomers.
[0185] In one variant, the footwear assembly comprises a majority by mass of at least one of the following materials: polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate and polyurethane.
[0186] This provision promotes the recycling of the shoe.
[0187] By majority by mass, it is understood that the mass fraction of PET or PBT, or PUR of the footwear assembly is the largest of the mass fractions of different materials that comprise the footwear assembly.
[0188] The present invention relates, according to a second aspect, to a shoe, in particular for the practice of a sport, capable of being obtained by the process of manufacturing a shoe according to any one of the variant embodiments with reference to the first aspect of the invention.
[0189] Advantageously, said shoe comprises a one-piece molded shoe assembly, said piece comprising an upper and a sole, the upper comprising at least a portion covering at least partially the dorsal surface of the foot, said shoe assembly comprising at least one textile tubular element comprising one or more thermofused textile portion(s), said textile tubular element comprising said portion covering at least partially the dorsal surface of the foot and said sole portion, in particular said sole portion comprising one or more thermofused textile portion(s), and the sole comprises a sole structure assembly comprising (in particular consisting of) one or more layers of textile reinforcement, in particular woven, embedded in a thermoplastic polymer matrix, said sole also comprising said part of the sole of said at least one tubular textile element, and: - the textile reinforcement layer(s) represent(s) at least 30% by mass or volume of the total mass or volume of the entire sole structure (or sole covering), preferably at least 40% by mass or volume of the total mass or volume of the entire sole structure (or sole covering), preferably at most 90% or at most 80% or at most 70%, or at most 60%, by mass or volume of the total mass or volume of the entire sole structure (or sole covering), and / or - the entire sole structure represents at least 30% by mass or volume of the total mass or total volume of the sowing, preferably at least 50% by mass or volume of the total mass or total volume of the sowing, preferably at least 60% or at least 70% or at least 80% by mass or volume of the total mass or total volume of the sowing.
[0190] Advantageously, the stem defines a receiving void for the foot in connection with the sowing.
[0191] Advantageously, the stem covers all or part of the top of the foot and / or the sole covers all or part of the bottom of the foot.
[0192] Advantageously, the thermoplastic polymer matrix comprises at least 50% by mass, preferably at least 60% or 70% or 80% or 90% by mass, of at least one material selected from: polyesters, such as PET and / or PBT, in particular low melting point, polyolefins (such as polypropylene and / or polyethylene); and polyurethanes, in particular low melting point.
[0193] Advantageously, the thermoplastic polymer matrix comprises at least 50% by mass, preferably at least 60% or 70% or 80% or 90% by mass, of thermofused textile portion(s), in particular of thermofused woven textile portion(s).
[0194] Advantageously, the textile layer(s) of the sole structure assembly comprise(s) a thermo-fusible mass fraction during step c) forming the thermoplastic polymer matrix and a non-thermally-fusible mass fraction during step c) forming the textile reinforcement layer(s).
[0195] Advantageously, the textile reinforcement layer(s) form(s) a textile reinforcement structure embedded in the thermoplastic polymer matrix.
[0196] Advantageously, a textile reinforcement layer, or each of the textile reinforcement layers, comprises one or more monofilament yarns and / or one or more entangled multifilament yarns, in particular knitted and / or woven and / or braided, preferably woven.
[0197] Advantageously, the textile reinforcement layer, or each of the textile reinforcement layers, comprises one or more glass yarns, one or more carbon yarns, one or more polyester yarns, such as polyethylene terephthalate and / or polybutylene terephthalate, one or more polyolefin yarns, such as polyethylene (in particular high-density or very high-density).
[0198] Advantageously, a woven reinforcement layer, or a part or each of the woven reinforcement layer(s), comprises warp yarns and weft yarns, in particular woven together.
[0199] Advantageously, a textile reinforcement layer, in particular woven, or a part or each of the textile reinforcement layer(s), in particular woven, comprises one or more polyester yarn(s), in particular high tenacity or high melting point polyester.
[0200] Advantageously, the sole part(s) of one or more textile tubular element(s) and the sole structure assembly represent at least 80% by mass or volume, preferably at least 90% by mass or volume, of the total mass or total volume of the sole.
[0201] Advantageously, the sole structure assembly represents at least 50% by mass or volume, preferably at least 60% or 70% or 80% by mass or volume, of the total mass or total volume of the sole.
[0202] Advantageously, the mass fraction of the polymer matrix, or of the thermofused textile portion(s), in the sole structure assembly, and / or in the sole, is greater than or equal to 30% or 40%, preferably less than or equal to 70% or 60%, for example in the order of 50% at + / - 5%.
[0203] Advantageously, the mass fraction in textile reinforcement layer(s), in particular woven (or textile portion(s), in particular woven, not thermally melted) in the sole structure as a whole, and / or in the sole, is greater than or equal to 30% or 40%, preferably less than or equal to 70% or 60%, for example in the order of 50% at + / - 5%.
[0204] Advantageously, a woven reinforcement layer comprises 5 to 15 warp yarns per cm and / or 5 to 15 weft yarns per cm.
[0205] Advantageously, the sole structure assembly comprises, in particular, one or more thermo-compressed textile layer(s) as described in reference to the first aspect of the invention.
[0206] In one variant, the mass fraction of textile reinforcement layer(s), in particular woven, in a forefoot region of the sole is different, in particular greater than or equal to, more particularly greater than or equal to twice, the mass fraction of textile reinforcement layer(s), in particular woven, in a rearfoot region of the sole.
[0207] In one variant, the number of layer(s) of textile reinforcement, in particular woven, in a forefoot region of the sole is different, in particular greater than or equal to, more particularly greater than or equal to twice, the number of layer(s) of textile reinforcement, in particular woven, in a rearfoot region of the sole.
[0208] In one variant, the sole structure assembly comprises one or more self-reinforced layer(s) of polyester(s), in particular polyethylene terephthalate and / or polybutylene terephthalate, or of polyolefin(s), in particular polypropylene and / or polyethylene.
[0209] In particular, the self-reinforced layer(s) comprise one or more self-reinforced textile layer(s) as described with reference to the first aspect of the invention.
[0210] In one variant, the sole comprises at least one housing whose access opening leads to the external face of said sole, said shoe comprises at least one insert for receiving a cleat, thermoplastic at least in part, and housed at least in part in said housing, said receiving insert being secured, in particular heat-bonded, in said opening of said housing by at least one of the portions chosen from: at least one thermo-fused portion of the thermoplastic matrix of the sole structure assembly, at least one thermo-fused portion of the thermoplastic insert or a combination of the latter.
[0211] This arrangement improves recyclability and improves resistance to delamination between the receiving insert and the sowing.
[0212] In one variant, the stem and the sole, in particular without cleats, have a total mass less than or equal to 160g, preferably less than or equal to 130g. In one variant, the sole comprises rearfoot and forefoot parts, and an underside of the forefoot part passes through a plane Pav and an underside of the rearfoot part passes through a plane P^, the planes Pav and Pa, forming between them an internal angle greater than or equal to 20°, in particular less than or equal to 40°, for example of the order of 28° at + / -5°.
[0213] This arrangement makes it possible to improve the speed of a 50m sprint.
[0214] This arrangement can be advantageously obtained by arranging textile layers in a functionalized manner in the overall sole structure.
[0215] In one variant, the sowing comprises an internal face and an external face that are substantially opposite, in particular the external face is oriented towards the ground.
[0216] In particular, the inner face is positioned opposite the foot-receiving void of the shoe.
[0217] More specifically, the inner face of the sole opens directly into the receiving void of the foot of the shoe.
[0218] In one variant, the outer face of the sowing includes a portion of engagement with the soil.
[0219] In particular, the maximum distance between the inner and outer faces of the sole in the rear foot region of the sole is less than or equal to 20 mm, preferably less than or equal to 15 mm.
[0220] In particular, the maximum distance between the inner and outer faces of the sole in the rear foot region of the sole is greater than or equal to 5 mm, preferably greater than or equal to 8 mm, for example in the order of 12 mm at + / - 20%.
[0221] In one variant, the sole is a wear sole, in particular comprising an external face comprising one or more portions of engagement with the ground.
[0222] In one variant, the flexural stiffness of the sole is less than or equal to 15N.
[0223] This arrangement is advantageously achieved by implementing textile layers in the entire sole structure.
[0224] Advantageously, flexural stiffness is measured with a dynamometer comprising fixing the shoe to a stirrup, then measuring the force exerted to obtain the bending, i.e., flexion, of the shoe. Preferably, flexural stiffness is measured according to the SATRA TM92 standard, in particular the version dated November 2016.
[0225] In one variant, the shoe includes an insole and / or an intermediate sole disposed in the foot compartment of the shoe.
[0226] In particular, the insole and / or the midsole is / are removable, or is / are attached, in particular glued, to the inner face of the sole, in particular said inner face opens into the foot recess of the shoe.
[0227] Advantageously, the midsole comprises, or is made of, a foam material, for example block polyamides or polyurethane.
[0228] In one embodiment, the shoe comprises a first tubular textile element (1st ETT) and a second tubular textile element (2nd ETT), in particular substantially superimposed, and the sole structure assembly is disposed between the sole part of the 1st ETT and the sole part of the 2nd ETT.
[0229] This provision makes it possible to improve the resistance to delamination of the formed sole.
[0230] In one variant, the thermo-compressed sole structure assembly, and the sole part(s) of the textile tubular element(s) (in particular also thermo-compressed) form said sole.
[0231] The variants, definitions and embodiments described with reference to the first aspect of the invention can be combined independently of each other with the variants, embodiments and definitions described with reference to the second aspect of the invention. Description of the drawings
[0232] The invention will be better understood upon reading the description of embodiments of the invention given by way of non-limiting examples, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
[0233] [Fig. 1] [Fig. 1] schematically represents a first example of a shoe, in particular for the practice of athletics, seen in perspective and from a lateral side;
[0234] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] schematically represents the shoe according to [Fig.1] view from above;
[0235] [Fig.3] [Fig.3] schematically represents the shoe according to figures 1 and 2. View from below;
[0236] [Fig.4] [Fig.4] schematically represents a first example of a woven layer that can be used in a shoe manufacturing process, in particular the first example of a shoe shown in figures 1 to 3;
[0237] [Fig.5] [Fig.5] schematically represents a first example of a footwear assembly according to the invention before thermocompression c);
[0238] [Fig.6] [Fig.6] schematically represents a variant of the arrangement of the complete footwear of [Fig.6] before thermocompression c);
[0239] [Fig.7] [Fig.7] schematically represents a second example of an assembly footwear according to the invention before thermocompression c). Description of the implementation methods
[0240] The first example of a shoe 10, particularly for athletics, comprises a one-piece molded shoe 20 30, said piece 30 comprising an upper 40 and a sole 50. The upper 40 comprises at least one portion covering at least part of the dorsal surface of the foot 55. Advantageously, said shoe 20 comprises a first tubular textile element 60 and a second tubular textile element 70 disposed within the foot-receiving volume of the first tubular element 60. Advantageously, the first and second tubular textile elements are each a knitted sock, and are knitted together at their foot-entry openings 62, 72. Advantageously, the first tubular textile element 60 is substantially entirely heat-molded, and therefore essentially composed of heat-fusible textile portion(s) that have been heat-molded.Advantageously, the second tubular textile element 70 is partially heat-molded and therefore includes non-heat-molded textile portions. Advantageously, the . parts of the sole (not visible) of the first and second tubular textile elements 60,70 are entirely thermo-melted and form part of the sole 50.
[0241] Advantageously, the tubular elements (60,70) include a temporary textile portion 63 shown in [Fig.2], and disposed in the instep region of the stem 40. This temporary textile portion 63 is intended to be separated from the stem 40. The function of this temporary textile portion 63 is to keep the edges of the instep region of the textile tubular elements (60,70) aligned during the thermocompression step c).
[0242] Advantageously, the textile tubular elements (60,70) include parts covering at least part of the foot 64,74 and parts of the sole (not visible).
[0243] The sole 50 further comprises a sole structure assembly 80, in particular thermo-compressed, comprising one or more layers of textile reinforcement, in particular woven, embedded in a thermoplastic polymer matrix. In this specific example, the sole portions of the tubular elements 60, 70, and the sole structure assembly 80 represent at least 90% by mass of the sole.
[0244] Advantageously, the shank 40 defines a foot-receiving void in conjunction with the sole 50. The sole 50 comprises an external face 52 facing the ground, and more particularly comprises at least a portion in contact with the ground. Advantageously, the sole 50 is an outsole.
[0245] Advantageously, the sole 50 comprises housings 54 whose access openings 53 lead to the external face 52 of said sole 50. The shoe 10 comprises receiving inserts for a cleat 100, thermoplastic at least in part, and housed at least in part in said housings 54. Advantageously, the receiving inserts 100 are secured, in particular glued, in the access openings 53 by at least one of the portions selected from: a thermofused portion of the thermoplastic polymer matrix of the sole structure assembly and a thermofused portion of the thermoplastic insert or a combination of these.
[0246] The receiving inserts 100 are preferably threaded so as to cooperate by screwing with cleats or spikes.
[0247] The sole 50 comprises a forefoot region 50a, a midfoot region 50b, and a rearfoot region 50c. Advantageously, the forefoot regions 50a and midfoot regions 50b of the sole 50 each comprise, for example, at least 4 or 8 layers of textile reinforcement, in particular woven, and the rearfoot region 50c comprises, for example, 2 or 4 layers of textile reinforcement, in particular woven.
[0248] Each layer of textile reinforcement is preferably a woven layer and comprises warp yarns and weft yarns, in particular comprising high-melting-point polyethylene terephthalate yarns (approximately 250°C, for example) and / or glass fibers and / or carbon fibers. The sole structure assembly 80 advantageously comprises a combination of woven reinforcements including PET and / or glass and / or carbon fibers.
[0249] Advantageously, the one-piece molded shoe assembly has a total mass less than or equal to 160g, preferably less than or equal to 130g, especially for a size 43.
[0250] Advantageously, the sole 50 comprises rearfoot parts 56 and forefoot parts 58, and the lower face 58a of the forefoot part 58 passes through a plane Pav and the lower face 56a of the rearfoot part 56 passes through a plane P.,,, the planes Pav and Par forming between them an internal angle greater than or equal to 20°, for example of the order of 28° at + / -3°.
[0251] This arrangement allows the sole to follow the user's foot movement optimally during walking or running, which in particular helps to improve walking or running speed.
[0252] In particular, the maximum distance between the inner face 53 and outer face 52 of the sole 50 in the rearfoot region 50c of the sole 50 is, for example, on the order of 12 mm at + / - 20% so as also to allow the sole to follow the roll of the user's foot optimally during walking or running.
[0253] Figure 4 represents a first example of a textile layer, in particular a woven one, 110 prior to thermocompression, comprising thermofusible textile portions during thermocompression step c), the mass fraction of which in said textile layer 110 is approximately 50% ± 5%, and non-thermusfusible textile portions during thermocompression step c), the mass fraction of which in said textile layer 110 is approximately 50% ± 5%. The thermofusible textile portions may be made of polyurethane, or of low-melting-point polyester, for example, low-melting-point PET (e.g., on the order of 180°C to 210°C).
[0254] The non-heat-fusible textile portions are in particular made of high-melting-point polyethylene terephthalate (PET), for example having a melting point greater than or equal to 210°C, for example on the order of 256°C, and corresponding to a high-tenacity PET. The woven layer 110 comprises warp yarns and weft yarns woven together.
[0255] In this specific example, a woven layer 110 is a self-reinforced woven layer made of PET with a surface mass of approximately 440 g / m², and a thickness in the thermo-compressed state of approximately 0.33 mm. The woven layer 110 comprises, for example, approximately 10 warp threads per cm and approximately 10 weft threads per cm. The woven reinforcement layer can be supplied by COMFIL.
[0256] The sole structure assembly 80 is thus obtained by thermocompression of several textile layers, in this specific example woven, such as the woven layer 110. For example, the sole structure assembly 80 comprises 4 woven layers in the rearfoot region 80c corresponding to the rearfoot region 50c, and 8 woven layers in the midfoot 80b and forefoot 80a regions of the sole structure assembly 80 corresponding to the midfoot 50b and forefoot 50a regions.
[0257] The sole 50 is advantageously formed in this example from the sole parts of the tubular elements 60,70 and the sole structure assembly 80.
[0258] Depending on the desired comfort and functions, the shoe 10 may include an insole and / or midsole disposed within the foot compartment of the shoe 10, in particular in a removable manner or attached in a removable manner by means of a (non-visible) fastening device. This fastening device may be a longitudinal notch arranged around all or part of the perimeter of the shoe assembly within its internal volume, in particular at the junction between the sole and the upper, said longitudinal notch being configured to cooperate for its removable attachment with the midsole and / or the insole.
[0259] The midsole can be made, for example, of a foam material, for example of block polyamides, type PEBAX, or of polyurethane.
[0260] Preferably, the method for manufacturing the shoe 10 comprises a shoe assembly 90 within a mold structure. In this specific example, the shoe assembly 90 comprises the first and second superimposed, unheat-compressed, tubular textile elements 60, 70, the second tubular element 70 being arranged within the foot cavity of the first tubular element 60, as well as the unheat-compressed sole structure assembly 80, comprising textile layers 110, in particular woven layers, arranged in a predetermined configuration relative to the sole imprint. In particular, the foot-shaped pre-form is housed within the foot cavity of the second tubular textile element. In this specific example, the sole imprint comprises four woven layers 110 in the rearfoot region and eight woven layers 110 in the forefoot and midfoot regions.The textile layers 110, in particular woven, can be arranged between the sole parts 65,75 of the first and second elements 60,70 as shown in [Fig.6]. Alternatively, before the thermocompression step c), the sole structure assembly 80 can be arranged against the outer face 65b of the textile sole part 65 of the first tubular textile element 60 as shown in [Fig.6], or against the inner face 75a of the textile sole part 75 of the second tubular textile element 70, or distributed between the sole parts 65,75, and against the inner face 75a and against the outer face 65b.
[0261] It is also possible, although not preferred, that the footwear assembly 90 comprises a single tubular textile element 60, and that the sole structure assembly 80 is disposed against the external face 65b of the sole part 65 as shown in [Fig.7], or against the internal face 65a of the sole part 65, or according to a combination of these locations.
[0262] Then, the shoe assembly 90 is placed in an external mold structure comprising a sole impression and an impression of the upper portion covering the dorsal surface of the foot. The mold structure also includes a foot-shaped preform intended to be placed between said impressions and housed in the foot-receiving cavity of the second textile tubular element 70. Preferably, the foot-shaped preform is inflatable, in particular made of silicone. The shoe assembly 90 is heated to a temperature enabling the melting and / or softening of all the heat-fusible textile portions (i.e., those of the textile tubular elements 60, 70 and of the sole structure assembly 80, including the textile layers and optionally the heat-fusible film(s) placed between textile layers), and is compressed by inflating the inflatable preform, pressing the shoe assembly 90 against said mold impressions.We obtain a thermo-compressed footwear assembly 20 and therefore molded in one piece 30. .
[0263] It is then possible to complete the functionalization of the entire footwear assembly 20 by adding a lacing system, and to screw crampons or spikes into the receiving inserts 100.
[0264] Advantageously, at least 90% by mass of the total mass of the one-piece molded shoe assembly 20 30 comprises one or more thermoplastic material(s) selected from: polyethylene terephthalate and polyurethanes, which improves the recycling of the shoe.
[0265] In addition, the molded sole structure assembly 20 allows for localized improvement of rebound and / or responsiveness independently of the textile tubular elements 60,70.
Claims
Demands
1. A method for manufacturing a shoe, in particular for the practice of a sport, characterized in that it comprises: (a) providing a footwear assembly (90): at least one textile tubular element (60,70) comprising a textile portion covering at least part of the dorsal surface of the foot (64,74) and a textile sole portion (65,75), said textile tubular element (60,70) comprising one or more textile portion(s) that are heat-fusible in step c), and optionally one or more textile portion(s) that are not heat-fusible in step c), and a sole structure assembly (80) comprising one or more textile layers (110) superimposed at least in part, and said textile layer(s) (110) of the sole structure assembly (80) comprising one or more textile portion(s) that are heat-fusible in step c) and one or more non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) during step c),(b) the non-heat-fusible textile portion(s) of the sole structure assembly (80) in step c) represents at least 30% by mass or volume of the total mass or volume of said sole structure assembly (80); (b) place said footwear assembly (90) in a mold structure, including a portion-covering impression covering at least part of the dorsal surface of the foot and a sole impression; and (c) heat-compress said footwear assembly (90) so as to achieve the melting and / or softening of the heat-fusible textile portions of said at least one tubular textile element (60, 70) and of the sole structure assembly (80); (d) demold said heat-compressed footwear assembly (90) comprising an upper (40) and a sole (50).
2. A manufacturing method according to claim 1, characterized in that said textile layer(s) (110) represent(s) at least 50% by volume or mass, preferably at least 80% by volume or mass, of the total mass or total volume of said sole (50).
3. A manufacturing method according to either of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the mass fraction of textile layer(s) (110), or the number of textile layer(s) (110), in the forefoot region of the sole footprint is different from, in particular greater than or equal to, the mass fraction in textile layer(s), or the number of textile layer(s), in the rearfoot region of the sole footprint.
4. A manufacturing method according to claim 3, characterized in that the number of textile layer(s) (110), or the mass fraction of textile layer(s) (110), in the forefoot region of the sole structure assembly (80) is greater than or equal to the number of textile layer(s) (110), or the mass fraction of textile layer(s)(110), in the rearfoot region of the sole structure assembly.
5. A manufacturing process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the mass fraction of heat-fusible textile portion(s) during step c) in a textile layer (110) is greater than or equal to 30%.
6. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the sole structure assembly (80) in step a) comprises at least 80% by mass of textile layer(s) (110).
7. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that a textile layer (110) comprises one or more non-heat-fusible yarn(s) in step c) selected from polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns, polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) yarns, in particular high-tenacity polyethylene terephthalate (PET) yarns.
8. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that a textile layer (110) is a self-reinforced layer of polyester(s) or polyolefin(s).
9. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the sole structure assembly (80) comprises at least one textile layer (110) comprising at least one housing (54), said housing (54) comprising at least one heat-fusible textile portion during step c) of thermocompression, in that the footwear assembly (90) comprises at least one receiving insert (100) for a cleat housed at least in part in said housing (54), said at least one receiving insert (100) for a cleat being at least in part thermoplastic.
10. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the textile sole part (65,75) of the textile tubular element (60,70) comprises at least one elastic yarn, in particular at least one elastane yarn.
11. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the textile sole part (65,75) of the textile tubular element (60,70) is knitted and includes loops, and in that the heat-fusible textile mass fraction in step c) of the textile sole part (65,75) is greater than or equal to 80%.
12. A manufacturing method according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the footwear assembly (90) comprises a majority by mass of at least one of the following materials: polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate and polyurethane.
13. Footwear (10), particularly for the practice of a sport, capable of being obtained by the process of manufacturing a shoe (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that said shoe (10) comprises a one-piece molded shoe assembly (90), said assembly comprising an upper (40) and sole (50), in that the upper (40) comprises at least one portion covering at least partially the dorsal surface of the foot (64, 74), in that said shoe assembly (90) comprises at least one textile tubular element (60, 70) comprising one or more thermofused textile portion(s), said textile tubular element (60, 70) comprising said portion covering at least partially the dorsal surface of the foot (64, 74) and a portion of the sole (65, 75), and in that the sole (50) comprises a sole structure assembly (80) comprising one or several layer(s) of textile reinforcement embedded in a thermoplastic polymer matrix,said sole assembly (50) also comprising said sole portion (65,75) of said at least one textile tubular element (60,70), and in that the textile reinforcement layer(s) of the sole structure assembly (80) represents(s) at least 30% by mass or volume of the total mass or total volume of the sole structure assembly (80).
14. Shoe (10) according to claim 13, characterized in that the mass fraction of textile reinforcement layer(s) in a forefoot region (58) of the sole (50) is different, in particular greater than or equal to the mass fraction in textile reinforcement layer(s) in a rearfoot region (56) of the sole (50).
15. Shoe (10) according to either of claims 13 and 14, characterized in that the number of layer(s) of textile reinforcement in a forefoot region (58) of the sole (50) is different, in particular greater than or equal to the number of layer(s) of textile reinforcement in a rearfoot region (56) of the sole (50).
16. Shoe (10) according to any one of claims 13 to 15, characterized in that the sole structure assembly (80) comprises one or more self-reinforced layer(s) of polyester(s) or polyolefin(s).
17. Shoe (10) according to any one of claims 13 to 16, characterized in that the sole (50) comprises at least one housing (54) the access opening of which leads to the external face (52) of said sole (50), in that said shoe (10) comprises at least one receiving insert (100) for a thermoplastic cleat at least partially housed at least partially in said housing (54), said receiving insert (100) being secured in said opening of said housing (54) by at least one of the portions selected from: at least one thermofused portion of the thermoplastic matrix of the sole structure assembly (80), at least one thermofused portion of the thermoplastic insert (100), or a combination thereof.
18. Footwear (10) according to any one of claims 13 to 17, characterized in that at least 50% by mass of the total mass of the footwear assembly (90) comprises one or more thermoplastic material(s) selected from: polyesters, in particular polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or a mixture thereof; polyurethanes, in particular polyurethane elastomers; polyolefins, in particular olefinic thermoplastic elastomers.
19. Shoe (10) according to any one of claims 13 to 18, characterized in that the upper and the sole, in particular without cleats, have a total mass less than or equal to 160g, preferably less than or equal to 130g.
20. Shoe (10) according to any one of claims 13 to 19, characterized in that the sole (50) comprises rearfoot (56) and forefoot (58) parts, and in that an underside face (58a) of the forefoot part (58) passes through a plane Pav and an underside face (56a) of the rearfoot part (56) passes through a plane P.„ , the planes Pav and P.„ forming an internal angle greater than or equal to 20° between them.
Citation Information
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