Solid skincare and / or makeup composition

A cosmetic composition using bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles with wax replaces titanium dioxide, ensuring structural, sensory, and coverage properties, addressing the challenges of replacing titanium dioxide in cosmetic formulations.

FR3162356A1Pending Publication Date: 2025-11-28CHANEL PARFUMS BEAUTE SAS +1
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Patent Information

Application Number
FR2024005369
Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2024-05-24
Publication Date
2025-11-28

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions struggle to replace titanium dioxide while maintaining structural, sensory, coverage, and tint properties, as adding alternative inorganic compounds disrupts the balance of solidity and coverage, and organic compounds alter the shade.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising bismuth oxychloride particles, boron nitride particles, and at least one wax, with less than 3% titanium dioxide, providing structural, sensory, and coverage properties similar to titanium dioxide.

Benefits of technology

The combination of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles achieves satisfactory structural, application, sensorial, and tinted properties, maintaining opacity and mechanical strength in solid cosmetic compositions.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, particularly those of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, and a cosmetic process for its application. More particularly, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Bismuth oxychloride particles; (ii) Boron nitride particles; and (iii) At least one wax; characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and has a hardness of at least 30 Nm⁻¹.
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Description

Title of the invention: Solid skincare and / or makeup composition technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. In particular, the invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, and a cosmetic process implementing it. State of the art

[0002] In the field of cosmetics, consumers are increasingly looking for solid products, particularly anhydrous ones, for the care and / or makeup of the skin or lips.

[0003] Two properties are particularly valued, namely: (i) Coverage: Coverage refers to a cosmetic product's ability to conceal skin imperfections, such as blemishes, redness, or scars. A product with good coverage provides an even and smooth complexion, giving the skin a natural and flawless appearance; and (ii) Mechanical strength: Mechanical strength refers to a product's physical resistance as a solid. For example, a makeup stick such as a lipstick must be able to withstand pressure during application without breaking or deforming. Furthermore, it must maintain its shape and consistency despite variations in temperature and humidity. These mechanical properties are essential for ensuring ease of use and product longevity.

[0004] The coverage of a cosmetic product is achieved through the use of white pigments and / or fillers. Among the pigments widely used in cosmetics, titanium dioxide is a particularly noteworthy example. This inorganic pigment, used in powder form in numerous applications, is valued for its exceptional white color and its many other properties, such as its opacifying properties.

[0005] With the evolution of regulations, more and more studies are focusing on the safety of pigments for humans and the environment.

[0006] Although the use of titanium dioxide in products for topical application is not prohibited, manufacturers, particularly in cosmetics, are always looking for new compounds that can offer an alternative to the ubiquitous use of titanium dioxide that is suitable for use on the skin and hair.

[0007] In other words, manufacturers are looking for solutions to replace all or part of the titanium dioxide, particularly in existing formulations.

[0008] Prior art describes the use of other inorganic compounds, such as bismuth oxychloride or zinc oxide, to replace titanium dioxide in solid cosmetic compositions. However, the addition of these inorganic compounds intended to replace titanium dioxide tends to disrupt the balance of solidity, sensory properties, and coverage of the solid cosmetic compositions.

[0009] Furthermore, the necessary quantity of organic compounds to be added to solid cosmetic compositions in order to obtain a covering and opacifying power similar to that of titanium dioxide may lead to additional constraints and in particular to modifications of the shade of the cosmetic compositions.

[0010] There is therefore a need for an alternative solution to replace all or part of the titanium dioxide in solid cosmetic compositions while exhibiting satisfactory structural, application, sensorial, coverage and tint properties. Summary of the invention

[0011] To meet this need, the invention proposes a new cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Particles of bismuth oxychloride; (ii) Boron nitride particles; and (iii) At least one wax; characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and that it has a hardness of at least 30 Nm1.

[0012] Advantageously, the combination of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles makes it possible to replace all or part of the titanium dioxide in a cosmetic composition while allowing said cosmetic composition to have good structural, application, sensorial, tinted and covering properties.

[0013] More particularly, for a given solid cosmetic composition comprising titanium dioxide, the combination of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles in place of all or part of the titanium dioxide advantageously makes it possible to obtain similar structural, application, sensorial, tint and coverage properties.

[0014] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises particles of at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, tricalcium phosphate, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof.

[0015] Advantageously, the addition of particles of at least one other inorganic compound, in addition to the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles, makes it possible to improve the application properties, i.e. to obtain a regular film on the skin, while improving the opacity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0016] The invention also relates to a method of preparing the composition according to the invention, including in particular a step a) of preparing a mixture comprising particles of bismuth oxychloride, particles of boron nitride and optionally particles of at least one other inorganic compound.

[0017] Preferably, the preparation of step a), intended to replace titanium dioxide, has a clarity measured on a black background defined by a parameter L* greater than 88 and an opacity greater than 82%.

[0018] Finally, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably the lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in the invention.

[0019] Other features and advantages will become apparent from the detailed description of the invention and the purely illustrative and in no way limiting examples of the scope of the invention. Detailed description of the invention Definitions

[0020] For the purposes of this invention, "charges" means particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0021] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (approximately 25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or diffuse light, giving the composition containing them a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the mixture's temperature back to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes within the oils of the mixture, detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence). For a definition of waxes, see, for example, PD Dorgan, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, December 1983, pp. 30-33.

[0022] For the purposes of this invention, "non-polar wax" means a hydrocarbon wax and / or a silicone wax.

[0023] For the purposes of this invention, "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

[0024] For the purposes of this invention, "nonpolar siliconized wax" means a wax comprising a silicon heteroatom

[0025] For the purposes of this invention, "polar wax" means a wax comprising at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

[0026] By "anhydrous composition" in the sense of the invention, it is understood in particular that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition according to the invention but may be present in trace amounts in various compounds used in said composition.

[0027] For the purposes of this invention, "solid composition" means a composition exhibiting, at a temperature of 20°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a hardness greater than 30 Nm1, preferably greater than 40 Nm*. Hardness can be measured at 20°C using the "butter cutter wire" method, which assesses the firmness of a solid product by measuring, in particular, its resistance to cutting. This measurement is performed 24 hours after formulation, using a texture analyzer (TAXTPlus, MicroStable Systems, UK) equipped with a 5 kg load cell and its Butter Cutter A / BC probe (Swantech, MicroStable Systems, UK). This method measures the maximum resistance force of the solid product when the butter cutter wire penetrates to a depth of 9 mm at a speed of 1.6 mm / s.To ensure the reproducibility of the measurements, the analysis is repeated on six solid products, and the relative difference between measurements should not exceed 10%, ideally 5%. For each type of product, a reference (target) range is established to guarantee the mechanical properties of the solid cosmetic composition. The solid cosmetic composition according to the invention will generally have a hardness greater than or equal to 70g, in particular greater than or equal to 90g, for example, ranging from 100g to 400g, and preferably from 140g to 300g, and even more preferably from 175g to 250g. Such compositions... (corresponding in particular to cast sticks in standard format of approximately 12.7mm), exhibit adequate stability and hardness: the stick is sufficiently rigid and solid, does not break during application and is thus compatible with packaging in stick form or in another solid form and with application by friction on the surface to be treated and / or made up; they are also characterized by ease of application such as good glide, good deposit from the first application and a comfortable texture.

[0028] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty fat" refers to a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid-liquid phase change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state, and comprising, at a temperature of 23 °C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the initial melting temperature of the pasty fat may be lower than 23 °C.

[0029] The liquid fraction of the pasty fat measured at 23 °C can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fat. This liquid fraction at 23 °C preferably represents between 15 and 85%, and even more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fat can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.

[0030] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0031] A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to The crucible is first heated from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -20 °C to 100 °C at a rate of 5 °C / minute. During this second heating, the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty fat sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

[0032] The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at 23 °C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. The pasty fat is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fat is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.

[0033] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is equal to the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 °C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3:1999.

[0034] The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fat from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0035] The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to pass from the solid state to the state it presents at 23 °C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0036] The liquid fraction of the pasty fat measured at 32°C preferably represents 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty fat, preferably 50 to 100%, and preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the pasty fat. When the liquid fraction of the pasty fat measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty fat is less than or equal to 32°C.

[0037] The liquid fraction of the pasty fat measured at 32 °C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 °C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 °C.

[0038] For the purposes of this invention, "coating" means a process by which at least one particle is covered with another substance. In the context of this invention, the particles can be coated with another substance so as to facilitate their dispersion in the composition according to the invention.

[0039] By "lipophilic gelling agents", in the sense of the invention, means a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of a composition.

[0040] By "large dimension of primary particles" in the sense of the invention, we mean the length of the primary particles, for example observed from a SEM image.

[0041] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a liquid compound at room temperature (25 °C), which, when introduced at a rate of at least 1% by weight into water at 25 °C, is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a rate of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.

[0042] For the purposes of this invention, "shiny oil" means an oil with a refractive index greater than 1.43, preferably greater than 1.45, and even more preferably greater than 1.50. In the context of this invention, the refractive index is measured using an ABBE paralux refractometer ref 60-6400-9.

[0043] For the purposes of this invention, "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0044] For the purposes of this invention, "ester oil" means a mono-, di-, tri-, or tetra-ester oil. Ester oils are obtained by reacting a mono-, di-, tri-, or more generally a polyol with a mono-, di-, tri-, or more generally a polycarboxylic acid, said reactants being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally comprising alkoxylated groups. Ester oils may, in particular, be hydroxylated. In particular, the non-volatile ester oil may comprise from 18 to 70 carbon atoms.

[0045] For the purposes of this invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0046] By "non-volatile oil" for the purposes of the invention, we mean an oil which has a boiling point generally above 300°C under 760 mm Hg (101325 Pa) and which has little or no vapor pressure.

[0047] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure between 0.13 Pa and 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg), preferably between 1.3 Pa and 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more preferably between 1.3 Pa and 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 1,000 mm Hg).

[0048] For the purposes of this invention, "lake" means organic pigments comprising at least one organic dye precipitated on an inert support (also called a "base"). For example, Red 28 Al lake is a lake comprising an alumina base onto which the Red 28 dye is precipitated.

[0049] For the purposes of this invention, "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium. Coloring materials are conventionally chosen from pigments (insoluble in oils and the aqueous phase) and dyes (soluble in oils and the aqueous phase).

[0050] For the purposes of this invention, "particles" means non-nanometric particles as defined in European Recommendation EC 2011 / 696 concerning the definition of nanomaterials. In other words, all the particles described in the context of this invention, namely boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound, are characterized in that the median number size of the small and large dimensions of the primary particles is greater than 100 nm.

[0051] In the context of the invention, the median number size of the small and large dimensions of the primary particles can be measured by imaging electronic, for example with a scanning electron microscope (SEM), in particular using a JEOL JSM 7100F microscope with Oxford Instrument 50mm2 analysis system.

[0052] By "lamellar particle" or "platelet particle", in the sense of the invention, it is understood that the thickness of the particle is less than the width of the particle, in particle the ratio between the width and the thickness of the particle goes from 2 to 100.

[0053] By "small dimension of primary particles" in the sense of the invention, we mean the width or thickness of the primary particles, for example observed from a SEM image.

[0054] For the purposes of this invention, "pigment" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0055] For the purposes of this invention, "mineral pigments" means zinc oxides, iron oxides, in particular black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0056] By "radical film-forming polymer", in the sense of the invention, we mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers with unsaturation in particular ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

[0057] For the purposes of this invention, "median number size" means the value corresponding to 50% by number of particles having a particular size. For example, a median number size of primary particles greater than 100 nm means that 50% by number of these particles have a size greater than 100 nm. Solid cosmetic composition

[0058] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Particles of bismuth oxychloride; (ii) Boron nitride particles; and (iii) At least one wax; said composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and exhibits a hardness of at least 30 Nm'.

[0059] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is an anhydrous composition. In particular, according to one embodiment, the composition According to the invention, the composition comprises less than 4% water, preferably less than 3%, in particular less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% water by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even be completely free of water. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of water.

[0060] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.5% of titanium dioxide by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of titanium dioxide.

[0061] Boron nitride particles

[0062] The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention generally have a lamellar or platelet shape. This conformation allows the boron nitride to provide a soft and silky feel, improving the sensory experience of the composition according to the invention by facilitating its spread on the skin.

[0063] The boron nitride particles used according to the invention are boron nitride particles, as opposed to boron nitride nanoparticles.

[0064] Boron nitride particles are generally known by the INCI name: Boron nitride.

[0065] The boron nitride particles usable according to the invention have a median size in number of the small dimension and the large dimension of primary particles greater than 100 nm, measured by electron imaging, for example by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), in particular by means of a JEOL JSM 7100F microscope with Oxford Instrument 50mm2 analysis system according to ., in particular by measuring the median size in number of the small dimension and the large dimension of primary particles according to the European Recommendation relating to the definition of nanomaterials EC 2011 / 696.

[0066] The following commercial references can be cited in particular: BORON NITRIDE CC and SOFTOUCH CC from SAFIC ALCAN / Momentive, BORON NITRIDE SHP from IWASE / Mizushima, RONAFLAIR from Merck, CARESS BN from Kobo, PHUP 3000-02 from Saint Gobain.

[0067] According to one embodiment, the boron nitride particles contain more than 80% by weight of boron nitride, in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99% by weight of boron nitride, or even 100% of boron nitride.

[0068] According to one embodiment, the boron nitride particles are treated so as to form a coating.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment, at least 10%, in particular at least 50%, preferably 100% of the boron nitride particles comprise a coating.

[0070] When boron nitride particles include a coating, this is chosen from a hydrophobic coating, a hydrophilic coating, a lipophobic coating or a lipophilic coating.

[0071] According to one embodiment, the coating of the boron nitride particles is a coating of natural origin.

[0072] Preferably, when the boron nitride particles include a coating, the coating includes at least one molecule selected from: *a silicone derivative preferably chosen from Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Dimethicone and Methicone; *a fatty acid ester derivative preferably selected from stearyl glutamic acid, polyhydroxystearic acid, hydrogenated stearyl olive oil ester, magnesium myristate, jojoba esters, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, aloe vera oil extract and avocado oil; *synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax or olefin-type waxes; *natural waxes such as camauba wax; *silane derivatives, preferably chosen from methoxy PEG-10 propyltrimethoxysilane; *silica; *polyesters such as polyhydroxystearic acid (PHA) *phytic acid, dihydrogen phosphate ester of inositol; *metallic salts of fatty acids; *metallic alkoxides; *polysaccharides; *alkyl titanate; * natural or mineral oils; *amino acids or amino acid derivatives such as lauroyl lysine alone or combined with aluminium hydroxide; *a fatty acid derivative of stearic acid, preferably isopropyl titanium triisostearate; and *a fluorosilane, preferably perfluorohexylethyl Triethoxysilane.

[0073] According to a preferred embodiment, the boron nitride particles comprise a coating comprising at least one molecule selected from polysaccharides, amino acids, fatty acid ester derivatives and polyesters, even more preferably polyesters.

[0074] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises boron nitride particles having a coating comprising polyhydroxystearic acid (PHA).

[0075] Advantageously, the coating of the boron nitride particles used according to the invention makes it easier to disperse them within the composition.

[0076] A person skilled in the art can choose the type of coating according to the nature and intended use of the composition according to the invention.

[0077] According to one variant, the boron nitride particles do not include a coating.

[0078] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a boron nitride particle content of between 0.001 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a boron nitride particle content of between 0.001 and 29%. Those skilled in the art can adjust the boron nitride particle content according to the characteristics of the solid cosmetic composition, such as its color and sensory properties.

[0080] Bismuth oxychloride particles

[0081] Bismuth oxychloride particles are in the form of a white powder insoluble in water.

[0082] The bismuth oxychloride particles used according to the invention are bismuth oxychloride particles, as opposed to bismuth oxychloride nanoparticles.

[0083] Bismuth oxychloride particles are generally known by the INCI name: CI 77163 (BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE).

[0084] The bismuth oxychloride particles usable according to the invention have a median size in number of the small dimension and the large dimension of the primary particles greater than 100 nm.

[0085] The median number size of the particles can be measured according to an electron imaging method as described above.

[0086] One can cite in particular the commercial reference PEARL GLO SF 1099 of the company SUN CHEMICALS.

[0087] According to one embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride particles contain more than 80% by weight of bismuth oxychloride, in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99% by weight of bismuth oxychloride, or even 100% of bismuth oxychloride.

[0088] According to one embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride particles are treated so as to form a coating.

[0089] According to a particular embodiment, at least 10%, in particular at least 50%, preferably 100% of the bismuth oxychloride particles comprise a coating.

[0090] When bismuth oxychloride particles include a coating, this is chosen from a hydrophobic coating, a hydrophilic coating, a lipophobic coating or a lipophilic coating.

[0091] According to one embodiment, the coating of the bismuth oxychloride particles is a coating of natural origin.

[0092] Preferably, when the bismuth oxychloride particles include a coating, the coating comprises at least one molecule selected from: *a silicone derivative preferably chosen from Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Dimethicone and Methicone; *a fatty acid ester derivative preferably selected from stearyl glutamic acid, polyhydroxystearic acid, hydrogenated stearyl olive oil ester, magnesium myristate, jojoba esters, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, aloe vera oil extract and avocado oil; *synthetic waxes such as polyethylene wax or olefin-type waxes; *natural waxes such as camauba wax; *silane derivatives, preferably chosen from methoxy PEG-10 propyltrimethoxysilane; *silica; *polyesters such as polyhydroxystearic acid (PHA) *phytic acid, dihydrogen phosphate ester of inositol; *metallic salts of fatty acids; *metallic alkoxides; *polysaccharides; *alkyl titanate; * natural or mineral oils; *amino acids or amino acid derivatives such as lauroyl lysine alone or combined with aluminium hydroxide; *a fatty acid derivative of stearic acid, preferably isopropyl titanium triisostearate; and *a fluorosilane, preferably perfluorohexylethyl Triethoxysilane.

[0093] According to a preferred embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride particles comprise a coating comprising at least one molecule selected from polysaccharides, amino acids, fatty acid ester derivatives and polyesters, even more preferably polyesters.

[0094] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises bismuth oxychloride particles having a coating comprising polyhydroxystearic acid (PHA).

[0095] Advantageously, coating the bismuth oxychloride particles used according to the invention facilitates their dispersion within the composition. Those skilled in the art can choose the type of coating according to the nature and intended use of the composition according to the invention.

[0096] According to one variant, the bismuth oxychloride particles do not include a coating.

[0097] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a content of bismuth oxychloride particles of between 0.001 and 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a bismuth oxychloride particle content of between 0.001 and 29%. Those skilled in the art can adjust the boron nitride particle content according to the characteristics of the solid cosmetic composition, such as its color and sensory properties.

[0099] Mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles

[0100] According to one embodiment, the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles has a weight ratio between 1:99 and 99:1.

[0101] According to a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between the bismuth oxychloride particles and the boron nitride particles is between 40:60 and 60:40, in particular between 45:55 and 55:45, more particularly 50:50.

[0102] According to one embodiment, the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles represents a content of less than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] According to one embodiment, the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles represents a content of between 0.02 and 30%, in particular between 0.02 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] Advantageously, the combination of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles makes it possible to replace all or part of the titanium dioxide in solid cosmetic compositions by providing in particular good coverage, good opacity, and good sensoriality to the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0105] Preferably, the boron nitride particles and the bismuth oxychloride particles have a coating, preferably a coating of the same nature, more preferably a coating comprising a polyester and in particular PHA.

[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride particles and the bismuth oxychloride particles have a different / distinct coating.

[0107] Other inorganic compounds

[0108] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, preferably in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound.

[0109] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises particles of at least one other inorganic compound comprising a content of between 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises particles of at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof.

[0111] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc stearate, zinc sulfate, zinc oxide, zinc sulfide and their combinations.

[0112] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises zinc sulfate and / or zinc oxide in addition to the mixture of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride.

[0113] According to another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound selected from calcium carbonate, kaolin and their combinations.

[0114] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, calcium carbonate particles.

[0115] Advantageously, the addition of particles of at least one other inorganic compound, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, makes it possible to improve the mechanical strength and solidity of a stick while maintaining a satisfactory opacity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0116] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least two, in particular at least three other inorganic compounds selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof.

[0117] According to one embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles represent at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound particles.

[0118] According to a preferred embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles represent at least 55%, preferably at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, more preferably at least 75%, even more preferably at least 85% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound particles.

[0119] According to another embodiment, the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent between 50 and 95%, in particular between 65 and 95%, preferably between 80 and 95% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

[0120] Advantageously, the content of the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles compared to the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound is essential to exhibit characteristics similar to titanium dioxide, in particular satisfactory clarity and opacity.

[0121] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of zinc oxide.

[0122] Waxes

[0123] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a total wax content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight, preferably between 4 and 20% by weight, in particular between 5 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one wax selected from a polar wax, a non-polar wax and mixtures thereof.

[0125] In particular, the polar wax may be selected from the group comprising beeswax, sunflower wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cottonseed wax, rice bran wax, berry wax, Chinese insect wax, lanolin and its derivatives, alcohols, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, shellac wax, polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswaxes marketed by Koster Keunen under the trade name Kester Wax K82H, or a mixture thereof.

[0126] One may also mention the vegetable ester waxes selected from the group comprising the mixture of jojoba esters, polyglycerin-3, Acacia decurrens flower wax and sunflower seed wax, said mixture being commercially available by Gattefosse under the trade name Acticire®, jojoba esters marketed by Floratech under the trade name Floraesters 60 or Floraesters 70, alkyl esters or hydrogenated alkyl esters marketed by Sophim under the trade name Phytowax, such as hydrogenated lauroyl oleate esters marketed under the name Phytowax Olive 12L44.

[0127] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a non-polar wax selected from a hydrocarbon wax, a silicone wax and mixtures thereof.

[0128] In particular, the hydrocarbon nonpolar wax can be chosen from polyethylene wax, such as that marketed by New Phase Technologies under the name Performalène 400 (P400) or by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jeenate 3H, a mixture of high molecular weight linear polyethylene and ethylene / propylene copolymer, marketed by Safi-Alcan under the trade name Lipwax® PZ80-20, a synthetic wax such as that marketed by Sasol under the name Sasol Wax C80, mixtures of synthetic waxes and vegetable waxes, such as, for example, a mixture of synthetic wax and camauba (Copernica cerifera) wax marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smart wax 202, a mixture of synthetic wax, Candelilla wax and camauba (Copernica cerifera) wax marketed by Strahl & Pitsch under the name Smartwax 7743S,Fischer-Tropsch waxes, such as those marketed by Cirebelle under the name Cirebelle 303, or one of their mixtures, montan wax, ceresins, ozokerites, microcrystalline waxes, mineral paraffins.

[0129] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-polar silicone wax selected from C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, marketed by Evonik Industries AG under the name Abil Wax.

[0130] Advantageously, the presence of at least one wax in the cosmetic composition according to the invention makes it possible to contribute with the bismuth oxychloride particles and the boron nitride particles to provide good mechanical strength to the solid cosmetic composition according to the invention, in particular when the composition is in the form of a stick, in particular a hardness of at least 30 Nm*.

[0131] Additional ingredients

[0132] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also includes at least one other additional ingredient selected from an oil, a pasty fat, a lipophilic gelling agent, a filler, a coloring matter, a film-forming polymer and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Additional ingredients - oils

[0134] When the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil, the oil content is between 10 and 90%, preferably from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Non-volatile oil

[0136] Non-volatile oils may in particular be selected from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof.

[0137] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil selected from polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least 8 silicon atoms, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes whose alkyl chain contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, oils identified by the INCI name phenyl trimethicone and mixtures thereof.

[0138] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil comprising at least one hydrocarbon selected from squalane, phytosqualane, polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, synthetic (poly)esters also known as "ester oils" and (poly)ethers, in particular (poly)esters of C6-C20 acids and C6-C20 alcohols, advantageously branched such as isononyl isononanoate; vegetable oils; branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids; branched and / or unsaturated fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol; or a mixture thereof.

[0139] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile ester oil selected from: - monoesters comprising 18 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters of the formula R1COOR2 in which RI represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 6 to 20 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octylledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or alkyl ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate; - Diesters comprising 18 to 60 carbon atoms, in particular 18 to 50 carbon atoms, such as dicarboxylic acid and monoalcohol diesters, such as diisostearyl malate; glycol and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate; - triesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as tricarboxylic acid triesters, like triisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; or glycol and monocarboxylic acid triesters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, for example that available under the trade name Cithrol-PG-32-IS from the company Croda; - tetraesters comprising 35 to 70 carbon atoms, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate; - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as the polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol; - dimer diol and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as dimer diol and fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer available under the trade name Hailuscent ISDA-MB by Kogyo Alcohol and dimer diol and dicarboxylic acid dimer esters, in particular those obtained from a dimer of an unsaturated fatty acid in C8 to C34, in particular in C12 to C22, in particular in C16 to C20, and more particularly in Cl8, such as dilinoleic diacid esters and dilinoleic diol dimers, for example those marketed by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade names LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®; - fatty acid triglycerides (liquid at room temperature), in particular fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or jojoba oil; saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate; Cl8-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois); and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil; - or one of their mixtures.

[0140] When the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, this may be a shining oil.

[0141] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional non-volatile oil, in addition to at least one of the aforementioned oils, selected from diisostearyl malate, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate available under the trade name Cithrol PG32IS from the company Croda, pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate available under the trade name LEXFEEL 700 EX-LO MB by the company Inolex and their combinations.

[0142] Advantageously, such additional non-volatile oils make it possible in particular to improve the good dispersion of pigments or to provide a better sensoriality to the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0143] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from squalane, octyldodecanol, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, pentaerythrityl adipate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyldodecyl myristate, dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, isononyl isononanoate, meadowfoam seed oil, caprylic / capric triglyceride, sunflower oil, dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / isostearate, diisostearyl malate, jojoba oil

[0144] Volatile oil

[0145] According to one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of volatile oil.

[0146] Volatile oils may be volatile silicone oils and / or volatile hydrocarbon oils.

[0147] The volatile silicone oils possibly used in the compositions of the invention are linear or cyclic, have in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, possibly alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, and have a viscosity, at room temperature, of less than 5 cSt.

[0148] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile silicone oil selected from hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, cyclotetradimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, hexylheptamethyltrisiloxane, octylheptamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, heptamethylhexyl trisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane or a mixture thereof.

[0149] Regarding volatile hydrocarbon oil, one may more particularly cite a short chain hydrocarbon oil, volatile linear alkanes such as for example described in document FR2933865.

[0150] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one short-chain hydrocarbon oil selected from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, dodecane or a mixture thereof.

[0151] By way of example of volatile linear alkanes, one may cite those having hydrocarbon chains in: - C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate, - C15-19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name Emogreen L15, - C12-14, such as those marketed by Biosynthis under the name Vegelight 1214LC, - C9-12 alkane, such as those marketed by Daito under the name Makigreen D10.

[0152] Additional ingredients - pasty fats

[0153] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one pasty fat, preferably with a content of between 1 and 30% by weight, in particular between 5 and 20% by weight, more preferably between 5 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise a pasty fatty substance which may advantageously be chosen from: - petroleum jelly, also called petrolatum - lanolin and its derivatives, - silicone compounds, polymeric or not - Fluorinated compounds, whether polymeric or not, - vinyl polymers, in particular homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably having an alkyl group at C8-C30, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having alkyl groups at C8-C30, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having alkyl groups at C8-C30, - liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50, - mixtures of beeswax and octyldodecanol such as that marketed under the name Zenibee Cream by the company Zenitech, - esters, - vegetable butters such as mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cottonseed butter, avocado butter... or one of their mixtures.

[0155] Among the esters, the following may be used in particular: - esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, especially adipic acid and glycerol condensates, in which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular those marketed under the Softisan 649 brand by the company Sasol, - arachidyl propionate marketed under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters such as the product with the INCI name "bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate" marketed under the name Plandool-G by Nippon Fine Chemical Co, and "Phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl / isostearyl lauroyl glutamate" marketed under the name Eldew-PS308 by Ajinomoto, - fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, for example the mixture of stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate marketed under the name DUB solid by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, - pentaerythritol esters, - non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between a C4-C50 linear or branched dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, - aliphatic esters of ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester by an aliphatic carboxylic acid such as cetyl lactate marketed under the name ceraphyl 28 by the company ISP (International Speciality Products), - polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as the products Risocast DA-H ®, and Risocast DA-L ®, -or one of their mixtures.

[0156] Among the additional pasty fats, preference will be given to phytosterol esters such as the product with the INCI name "bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate" marketed under the name Plandool-G by Nippon Fine Chemical Co, "Phytosteryl / behenyl / octyldodecyl / isostearyl lauroyl glutamate" marketed under the name Eldew-PS308 by Ajinomoto, or a mixture of these.

[0157] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may include additional fatty substances having a melting point between 25°C and 55°C. The fatty substance having a melting point between 25°C and 55°C is selected from solid hydrogenated oils at 25°C or solid fatty esters at 25°C and mixtures thereof.

[0158] Among the solid hydrogenated oils at 25°C, we can mention hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil such as for example that available under the trade name hydrobase 32-34 by the company Prod'Hyg.

[0159] Among the solid fatty esters at 25°C, propylene glycol myristate, myristyle myristate and cetyl alcohol may be mentioned.

[0160] The fatty constituent having a melting point between 25°C and 55°C is preferably hydrogenated coconut oil.

[0161] Additional ingredients - lipophilic gelling agent

[0162] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent having a content of between 0.5 and 5% by weight, preferably between 2 and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; C8 C30 fatty acid tri-esters and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin).

[0164] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent of the type of natural or synthetic clay selected from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0165] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a hectorite as a lipophilic gelling agent, more preferably a hectorite modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride, said ammonium being substituted by at least one, and preferably at least two Cl4-C20 alkyl radicals, such as disteardimonium hectorite in which the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.

[0166] More specifically, the lipophilic gelling agent may be a modified hectorite dispersed in an oil, for example Elementis reference BENTONE GEL with INCI name Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.

[0167] Thus, according to a particular mode, the composition of the invention further comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent such as bentones, preferably a quaternary hectorite.

[0168] Additional Ingredients - Charges

[0169] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one additional filler, distinct from the bismuth oxychloride particles, boron nitride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound mentioned above.

[0170] Advantageously, the additional fillers make it possible to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to give a mattifying and / or blurring effect.

[0171] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional filler selected from synthetic polymer powders such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides, polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders, cellulose powders, glass and ceramic beads, powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice, cotton starch, crosslinked or not, hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.

[0172] The fillers may or may not be surface treated, in particular to form a coating, especially by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent, as described above.

[0173] According to a particular embodiment, at least one additional charge is not treated and / or coated.

[0174] According to another particular embodiment, at least one additional charge is treated and / or coated.

[0175] Additional ingredients - colouring matter

[0176] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise at least one coloring material.

[0177] When the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one colouring material, this may be of mineral or synthetic origin, treated or not by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent, organic or inorganic, soluble or insoluble in the oily or fatty phase of the composition.

[0178] According to a particular embodiment, at least one colouring material is chosen from mineral pigments, organic dyes and pigments, composite pigments, mother-of-pearls, dyes and their mixtures.

[0179] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one iron oxide.

[0180] When the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic pigment and / or colorant, this / these may be selected from Blue 1, Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Yellow 10, Yellow 11, Red 4, Red 6, Red 7, Red 9, Red 19, Red 13, Red 17, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 30 and Red 33, Red 34, Red 36, Red 40, Green 3, Orange 4, Violet 2, carmine, Green 5, Orange 5, Orange 10, Green 6, Sudan Red, Sudan Brown, Orange 5, and quinoline yellow, their salts, such as a salt of Sodium or Barium, or lakes comprising at least one of the said organic colorants or pigments, for example those having the name Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090); Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140); Yellow 6 lake (Cl 15985), Yellow 10 lake (Cl 47005), Yellow 11 Lake, Red 6 lake (15850); Red 7 lake (Cl 15850); Red 21 lake (Cl 45380); Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), Red 30 lake (Cl 73360), Red 33 lake (Cl 15880), Red 34 lake (Cl 15880), Red 40 Lake (Cl 16035), and / or their sodium or barium salts, including Red 6 Na Sait Lake, Red 6 Ba Sait Lake, and mixtures thereof.

[0181] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one lacquer comprising a base selected from the bases of alumina (Al), barium sulfate (Ba) or calcium rosinate (Ca).

[0182] According to a more particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic colorant or pigment selected from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably again Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their sodium or barium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0183] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one mother-of-pearl, preferably a mother-of-pearl chosen from colored pearlescent pigments such as mica with iron oxides, mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type.

[0184] Preferably, the nacres usable in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from the commercial reference ranges of nacres Reflecks®, Ronastar®, Thniron® and Syncristal®.

[0185] The pearlescent pigments usable in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also have a base of silica, alumina, alumina hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicate (e.g. calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminium borosilicate or cellulose or cellulose derivatives).

[0186] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional coloring material selected from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic colorants or pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises an additional coloring agent selected from the group consisting of: (i) Organic dyes and pigments selected from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 lake (Cl 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 lake (Cl 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 lake (Cl 47005), Yellow 11 , Yellow 11 lake, Red 4, Red 4 lake (Cl 14700), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21 , Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), Red 30, Red 30 lake (Cl 73360), Red 33, Red 33 lake (Cl 15880), Red 34, Red 34 lake (Cl 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (Cl 16035), Orange 4, carmine, and / or their salts, in particular of Sodium or Barium, such as Red 6 Na Sait Lake, Red 6 Ba Sait Lake, and mixtures thereof; in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 21, Red 21 lake (Cl 45380), Red 22, Red 22 lake (Cl 45380), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and / or their salts, and mixtures thereof; (ii) Composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic substrate, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which at least one of the aforementioned organic colorants or pigments, and mixtures thereof, are embedded or encapsulated; (iii) Pearlescent pigments comprising a substrate, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the aforementioned colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with an organic colorant or pigment selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 lake (Cl 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow5 lake (Cl 19140), Red 6, Red 6 lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 lake (Cl 15850), Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), carmine, and mixtures thereof; (iv) and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially the organic colorants or pigments chosen from Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, and Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a composite pigment comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), or a mother-of-pearl comprising Red 27, Red 27 lake (Cl 45410), Red 28, or Red 28 lake (Cl 45410), and mixtures thereof.

[0188] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a total content (excluding the content of boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound) of coloring materials of between 0.1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0189] When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended for a skincare composition, the total content (excluding the content of boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound) the amount of colouring materials is between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a makeup composition, the total content (excluding the content of boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and particles of at least one other inorganic compound) of coloring materials is between 0.1 and 25% by weight, preferably between 3 and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0191] Additional ingredient - film-forming polymer

[0192] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one film-forming polymer.

[0193] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer selected from synthetic polymers, radical type or polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

[0194] Radical-type film-forming polymers may include vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

[0195] Vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

[0196] As the monomer bearing the acid group, unsaturated α,[3-ethylenic] carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, and itaconic acid may be used. Preferably, (meth)acrylic acid, itaconic acid, and crotonic acid are used, and more preferably itaconic acid (for example, a metal salt of poly(itaconic acid) such as that marketed under the trade name REVCARE NE 100S by Itaconix).

[0197] Acid monomer esters are advantageously chosen from among (meth)acrylic acid esters (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, especially C1-C30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, aryl (meth)acrylates, especially C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, especially C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

[0198] Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, ethyl-2 hexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

[0199] Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, we can mention hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

[0200] Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate can be cited.

[0201] Particularly preferred (meth)acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably, in the context of the invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say, some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

[0202] Examples of amides of acid monomers include (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, especially alkyl in C2-C12. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, examples include N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

[0203] Vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers selected from vinyl esters and styrenic monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acid monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

[0204] Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and t-butyl vinyl benzoate.

[0205] Examples of styrenic monomers include styrene and alpha-methylstyrene.

[0206] We can also mention styrene / butadiene block copolymers such as the products of the Kraton company, or OLEOFLEX EG 200 from the APPLECHEM company.

[0207] Among the film-forming polycondensates, we can mention polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

[0208] Polyurethanes can be selected from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polymethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

[0209] Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

[0210] Dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These monomers Dicarboxylic acids can be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, and terephthalic acid are preferred.

[0211] The diol may be selected from aliphatic, alicyclic, or aromatic diols. Preferably, a diol selected from the following is used: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, or 4-butanediol. Other polyols that may be used include glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, and trimethylol propane.

[0212] Polyester amides can be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amine alcohols. Ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, and meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used as diamines. Monoethanolamine can be used as an amino alcohol. Another example of a polyamide resin is that bearing the INCI name DIISOSTEARYL MALATE & BIS DIOCTADECYLAMIDE DIMER DILINOLEIC ACID / ETHYLENE DIAMINE COPOLYMER, marketed under the name Haimalate PAM by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo.

[0213] The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4+ or a metal ion, such as for example a Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+, Fe3+ ion. In particular, a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a -SO3M group may be used.

[0214] The aromatic ring of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing an -SO3M group as described above may be chosen, for example, from the rings benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, and methylenediphenyl. Examples of bifunctional aromatic monomers further bearing an -SO3M group include sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, and 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

[0215] Isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate based copolymers can be used, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

[0216] Naturally derived polymers, possibly modified, may be selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or the seaweed Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel® marketed by Silab), and mixtures thereof. A natural polymer such as Filmexel® makes it possible, in particular, to improve the strength of the film obtained from the composition according to the invention. Film-forming polymers with the INCI name SHOERA ROBUSTA RESIN may also be mentioned. + BEESWAX, SHOERA ROBUSTA RESIN + SUNFLOWER OIL, ARAUCARIA + SUNFLOWER OIL, ARAUCARIA + CASTOR OIL, SHOERA ROBUSTA + OCTYLDODECANOL. Rosin esters such as glyceryl rosinate, available under the trade name NatPure GR from the company Gattefossé, can also be mentioned.

[0217] According to one embodiment, the film-forming polymer can be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents (the film-forming polymer is then said to be a liposoluble polymer).

[0218] As an example of a liposoluble polymer, one may cite copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (whose alkyl group comprises from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallylic ester (having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).

[0219] These copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinkers which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

[0220] Examples of these copolymers include: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2-dimethyl-2,2-vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2-dimethyl-2,2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, dimethyl vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl allyl propionate / stearate vinyl, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane,vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

[0221] Liposoluble film-forming polymers can also be cited as examples of film-forming polymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters. having 9 to 22 carbon atoms or acrylates or alkyl methacrylates, the allyl radicals having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0222] Such liposoluble copolymers may be selected from vinyl polystearate copolymers, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallylether or diallyl phthalate, stearyl poly(meth)acrylate copolymers, vinyl polylaurate, lauryl poly(meth)acrylate, these poly(meth)acrylates being crosslinked with methylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

[0223] The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

[0224] One can also mention liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0225] Examples of liposoluble homopolymers include, in particular: vinyl polylaurate and lauryl poly(meth)acrylates, these poly(meth)acrylates being able to be crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

[0226] As liposoluble film-forming polymers usable in the invention, we can also mention polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or not in C1 to C8 such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and C2 to C40 alkenes and better in C3 to C20. Examples of VP copolymers usable in the invention include VP / vinyl acetate copolymer, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene (ANTARON V220 marketed by Ashland), VP / hexadecene (ANTARON V216 marketed by Ashland), VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

[0227] Dextrin esters, and in particular:, can also be cited. - dextrin isostearate & isostearic acid marketed under the name UNIFILMA HVY by the company Chiba Flour Milling - dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate marketed under the name RHEOPEARL TT by the company Chiba Flour Milling - Dextrin Myristate marketed under the name RHEOPEARL MKL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling

[0228] We can also mention sugar esters and in particular sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by the EASTMAN company.

[0229] Silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, can also be mentioned; these are cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature for silicone resins is known as "MDTQ," where the resin is described according to the different siloxane monomeric units it comprises, with each letter "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

[0230] Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins include those marketed by Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK, and by SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L, or silform flexible resin.

[0231] Examples of siloxysilicate resins include trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those marketed under the reference SR1000 by General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by Wacker. Other examples include trimethylsiloxysilicate resins marketed in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by Shin-Etsu, "DOWSIL™ RSN-0749", and "DOWSIL™ 593 Fluid" by Dow Corning.

[0232] We can also mention copolymers of silicone resins such as those cited above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document US 5,162,410 or silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and a diorganosiloxane as described in document WO 2004 / 073626.

[0233] Copolymers with a non-siliconized organic skeleton grafted by monomers containing a polysiloxane motif can also be used, such as for example the butyl acrylate / hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer marketed under the name GRANACRYSIL BAS by the company GRANT.

[0234] Finally, we can mention acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers comprising a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure grafted onto a vinyl skeleton available commercially under the references DOWSIL FA 4002 ID or DOWSIL FA 4001 CM.

[0235] Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680 may also be used.

[0236] As a film-forming agent, natural resins, dextrin esters and rosin esters are preferred.

[0237] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 1 to 15% by weight of a film-forming polymer, preferably 5 to 12% by weight of at least one film-forming polymer relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: - Particles of bismuth oxychloride; - Boron nitride particles; - At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - Hydrocarbon oils; - Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent; - Optionally at least one colouring material chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof, characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1%, or even free of titanium dioxide and that it has a hardness of at least 30Nm*, in particular of at least 40Nm*.

[0239] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: - Particles of bismuth oxychloride; - Boron nitride particles; - Particles of at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof; - At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - Optionally hydrocarbon oils; - Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent; - Optionally, at least one coloring matter chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, characterized in that: (i) the composition is free of titanium dioxide; (ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm 1; (iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride constitute at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

[0240] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: - Particles of bismuth oxychloride; - Boron nitride particles; - Particles of at least one other inorganic compound chosen from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof; - At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - Optionally hydrocarbon oils; - Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent; - Optionally, at least one coloring matter chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, characterized in that: (i) the composition is free of titanium dioxide; (ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm 1; (iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride constitute at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

[0241] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: - Particles of bismuth oxychloride; - Boron nitride particles; - Calcium carbonate particles - At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - Optionally hydrocarbon oils; - Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent; - Optionally, at least one coloring matter chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, characterized in that: (i) the composition is free of titanium dioxide; (ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm 1; (iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and calcium carbonate particles.

[0242] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises: - Particles of bismuth oxychloride; - Boron nitride particles; - Calcium carbonate particles - At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - Optionally hydrocarbon oils; - Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent; - Optionally, at least one coloring matter chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, characterized in that: (i) the composition is free of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide; (ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm 1; (iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and calcium carbonate particles.

[0243] Galenic

[0244] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, in particular a composition for the skin, eyelids, eyebrows or lips, preferably for the eyelids, eyebrows and lips.

[0245] According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a jar or a cup.

[0246] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a lip stick or a composition packaged in a pot or cup for the lips.

[0247] According to another embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a liner pencil.

[0248] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a stick, a pencil or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger or brush, for eyebrows such as an eyebrow pencil.

[0249] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a stick, a pencil or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger, sponge, or brush, for the eyelids such as an eyeshadow.

[0250] According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a stick, a pencil or a composition in a pot or cup, applicable by finger, sponge, or brush, for the skin of the face, in particular certain areas such as a complexion corrector or concealer.

[0251] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow, a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip stick. cosmetic process

[0252] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, eyelids, eyebrows, or lips, preferably the lips, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0253] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention applied to keratinous materials comprises: - Particles of bismuth oxychloride; - Boron nitride particles; - At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - Hydrocarbon oils; - Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent; - Optionally at least one colouring material chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearls, and mixtures thereof, characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1%, or even free of titanium dioxide and that it has a hardness of at least 30Nm', in particular of at least 40Nm*.

[0254] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention applied to keratinous materials comprises: - Particles of bismuth oxychloride; - Boron nitride particles; - Particles of at least one other inorganic compound chosen from among zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof; - At least one wax in a total content of between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; - Optionally hydrocarbon oils; - Optionally a lipophilic gelling agent; - Optionally, at least one coloring matter chosen from the group consisting of iron oxides, organic dyes and pigments, mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof, characterized in that: (i) the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular less than 1%, see is free from titanium dioxide; (ii) the composition has a hardness of at least 30Nm-l; (iii) the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride constitute at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound.

[0255] According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention applied to the skin or lips is in the form of a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, a complexion corrector or concealer, preferably a lip stick.

[0256] Method for preparing the cosmetic composition according to the invention:

[0257] Also, according to another aspect, the invention relates to a method for preparing the composition according to the invention comprising the implementation of the following steps: a) Preparation of a mixture comprising particles of bismuth oxychloride, particles of boron nitride and optionally particles of at least one other inorganic compound; b) Dispersion of the preparation from step a) in at least one oil so as to form a so-called pigment paste; c) Mixing the pigment paste from step b) with at least one wax; d) Shaping the mixture from step c) in a suitable mold; and e) optionally, recovery of a cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Particles of bismuth oxychloride; (ii) Boron nitride particles; and (ii) At least one wax; comprising less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and exhibiting a hardness of at least 30Nm-l.

[0258] According to one embodiment, the preparation of step a) comprises: - Boron nitride particles; - Particles of bismuth oxychloride; and - Optionally particles of at least one other inorganic compound chosen from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof.

[0259] According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation of step a) comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc stearate, zinc sulfate, zinc oxide, zinc sulfide and their combinations.

[0260] According to another preferred embodiment, the preparation in step a) comprises, in addition to bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles, at least one other inorganic compound selected from calcium carbonate, kaolin and their combinations.

[0261] According to a particular embodiment, the preparation of step a) has a weight ratio between the bismuth oxychloride particles and the boron nitride particles of between 99:1 and 1:99 in particular between 40:60 and 60:40, preferably between 45:55 and 55:45.

[0262] According to one embodiment, the preparation of step a) has a weight ratio between bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles of 50:50.

[0263] Preferably, the boron nitride particles, bismuth oxychloride particles and optionally the particles of at least one other inorganic compound from the preparation of step a) have a coating as defined above.

[0264] According to another embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride particles and optionally the particles of at least one other inorganic compound from the preparation in step a) do not have a coating.

[0265] According to one embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles represent at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound particles of the preparation of step a).

[0266] According to a preferred embodiment, the bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles constitute at least 55%, preferably at least 60%, in particular at least 70%, more preferably at least 75%, even more preferably at least 85% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound from the preparation of step a).

[0267] According to another embodiment, the particles of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride represent between 50 and 95%, in particular between 65 and 95%, preferably between 80 and 95% by weight relative to the weight of the mixture of particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound of the preparation of step a).

[0268] Advantageously, the content of the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles compared to the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound from the preparation of step a) is essential to exhibit characteristics similar to titanium dioxide, in particular satisfactory clarity and opacity.

[0269] According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation of step a) has a lightness measured on a black background defined by a parameter L* greater than 88 and an opacity greater than 82%. Preferably, the preparation of step a) has a lightness measured on a black background defined by a parameter L* greater than 90 and an opacity greater than 82%.

[0270] The clarity of the preparation of step a) is evaluated by measuring, on a black background, the chromaticity coordinate L* from the CIELAB color space, generally referred to as CIE 1976, using an integrating sphere spectrocolorimeter under D65 illumination.

[0271] Preferably, the preparation of step a) has a clarity L* greater than 90, in particular greater than 91, preferably greater than 95.5.

[0272] The opacity of the preparation of step a) according to the invention is evaluated by measuring its covering power using a spectrophotometer measuring a reflectance value of the composition applied on a white background (Yw) and on a black background (Yb).

[0273] Preferably, the preparation of step a) has an opacity greater than 85%, in particular greater than 87%, preferably greater than 90%, even more preferably greater than 92%.

[0274] According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation in step a) has a clarity L* greater than 91 and / or an opacity greater than 88%. According to a particularly preferred variant, the composition according to the invention has a clarity L* greater than or equal to 92, and an opacity greater than or equal to 90%.

[0275] Advantageously, the preparation of step a) exhibits a clarity and opacity similar to that of titanium dioxide.

[0276] Clarity measured on a black background, defined by an L* parameter greater than 88, and opacity greater than 82% are important parameters for evaluating the compatibility of the preparation in step a) with the cosmetic composition according to the invention. Indeed, it is essential, in order to offer an alternative to the use of titanium dioxide, that the preparation in step a) have a clarity measured on a black background, defined by an L* parameter greater than 88, and an opacity greater than 82%. Otherwise, the quantity of preparation in step a) to be added to the composition according to the invention would be too large to obtain coverage and opacity equivalent to that of titanium dioxide, thus creating an imbalance in the cosmetic composition with a significant degradation of the texture, sensory properties, and makeup result: poorer application and uneven application.

[0277] Advantageously, the preparation of step a) allows titanium dioxide to be replaced in solid cosmetic compositions while representing an amount approximately 3 to 4 times greater than that of titanium dioxide. In this way, the cosmetic composition comprising the preparation of step a) exhibits properties similar to those of the same cosmetic composition comprising titanium dioxide.

[0278] According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation in step a) is free of titanium dioxide.

[0279] According to one embodiment, the process for preparing the composition according to the invention comprises a step a') after step a) comprising the addition within the preparation of step a) of at least one compound selected from: - titanium dioxide; - at least one coloring matter as defined above; and - their mixtures.

[0280] According to one embodiment, the oil used in step b) is an oil as described above.

[0281] A person skilled in the art is able to choose a quantity and an oil suitable for the preparation of step a) and for the galenic formulation of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0282] According to one embodiment, the pigment paste from step b) is mixed with at least one wax in liquid form, preferably under agitation.

[0283] Preferably, the wax from step b) is heated to a temperature between 80 and 100°C, more preferably 95°C.

[0284] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment paste from step b) is mixed with a composition comprising at least one wax and optionally at least one oil and / or at least one pasty fat as defined above.

[0285] According to one embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises a step c') comprising the addition within the mixture of step c) of at least one compound selected from at least one volatile oil, at least one film-forming polymer, at least one filler and mixtures thereof.

[0286] According to a preferred embodiment, step d) is carried out by pouring the mixture from step c) into a suitable mold.

[0287] Preferably, step d) includes the implementation of the following steps: dl) Pouring the mixture from step c) into a suitable mold, preferably at a temperature between 85 and 90°C; d2) Cooling of said mold, preferably in the freezer.

[0288] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is obtained by implementing any one of the aforementioned embodiments of the process. Examples

[0289] Example 1: Effect of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles on the structure and application and sensory properties of the composition according to the invention

[0290] It has been demonstrated that in order to achieve satisfactory covering and opacifying power, in a solid cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, a quantity of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles 3 to 4 times greater than the quantity of titanium dioxide was required to obtain an equivalent covering result.

[0291] For the implementation of the protocol in example 1, all the cosmetic compositions are presented in the form of a stick.

[0292] In this example, the control formulation has a lower concentration of titanium dioxide than the concentration of boron nitride and bismuth oxychloride particles in references B and C.

[0293] The addition of this quantity of bismuth oxychloride and / or boron nitride particles tends to destructure the stick, making the deposit on the lips less homogeneous and less covering.

[0294] Surprisingly, the inventors have, in order to compensate for the deleterious effects of bismuth oxychloride particles on the structure of the stick, the covering power of the stick and the homogeneity of the stick, used boron nitride particles.

[0295] All the compositions tested are described in the following table: [Tables 1] Ingredients A (control) B (excluding i C (excluding i D (according to E (according to F (according to % by weight nvention nvention in sells in sells in sells ) % by weight ) % by weight on) % by weight on) % by weight on) % by weight White body - composition described in Table 2 61.4 61.4 61.4 61.4 61.4 61.4 Colorant INCI Name: Red 7 D&C calcium 1 ake Trade Name: Rubin lake Manufacturer / Distributor Name: SUN CHEMICALS 5.85 5.85 5.85 5.85 5.85 5.85 Pigment INCI Name: Untreated titanium dioxide Trade Name: Hombi-tan AFDC 10 1 Manufacturer / Distributor Name: VENATOR 3.17 Particles INCI Name: Bismuth oxychloride Trade Name: Pearl Glo SFPG1099 Manufacturer / Distributor Name: SUN CHEMICALS 9.5 3.8 3.51 0.97 Particles INCI Name: Boron Nitride - - 7.31 5.75 5.75 8.09 Trade name: PHUP 3000-02 Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB Name of manufacturer / distributor: SAINT GOBAIN INOLEX Particles INCI name: Calcium carbonate Trade name: PHUP 3000-02 Name of manufacturer / distributor: OMYASKIN KOSTE NLOSES MUSTEK 0.29 Particles INCI name: Kaolin Trade name: Kaolin Whitex 0.49 Dispersant INCI name: pentaery-thrityl adi-pa te / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate Trade name: Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB Manufacturer / distributor name: INOLEX QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100 QSP100

[0296] The composition of the white body used for the realization of all the compositions in this example is described in Table 2 below. [Tables 2] Ingredients % by weight Wax INCI Name: ETHYLENE / PROPYLENE COPOLY-MER & SYNTHETIC WAX Trade Name: LIPWAX PZ80-20 Manufacturer / Distributor Name: INA Trading Co. Limited SAFIC-ALCAN SAS 18.9% Wax INCI Name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL & AQUA Trade Name: CASTORWAX MP 80 Manufacturer / Distributor Name: CASCHEM 0.8% Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil INCI Name: OCTYLDODECYL NEOPENTANOATE Trade Name: ELEFAC I 205 Manufacturer / Distributor Name: SACI CFPA EUROS SUMMIT COSMETICS EUROPE SACI CFPA (USD) ALZO INC 16.4% Lipophilic gelling agent INCI Name: OCTYLDODECANOL & DISTEAR-IMONIAL HECTORITE & PROPYLENE CARBONATE Trade Name: BENTONE GEL EUG V Manufacturer / Distributor Name : ELEMENTIS SPECIALTIES INC 16.4 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil INCI name: HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE & TOCOPHEROL Trade name: PARLEAM Manufacturer / distributor: ROSSOW 21.83 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-10 DECAISOSTEA-RATE Trade name: S-FACE IS-1009P Manufacturer / distributor: ROSSOW 13.1 Pasty fat INCI name: HYDROGENATED COCONUT OIL Trade name: HYDROBASE 32-34 Manufacturer / distributor: PROD'HYG 5.7 Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 TRIISOSTEARATE Trade name: SALACOS 43N Manufacturer / distributor: SACI CFPA EUROS SUMMIT COSMETICS EUROPE 5.99 Active ingredient INCI name: TOCOPHERYL ACETATE Trade name: DL-ALPHA-TOCOPHERYL ACETATE Manufacturer / Distributor Name: 0.81 DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS Antioxidant INCI Name: PEG-8 & TOCOPHEROL & ASCORBYL PAL MITATE & ASCORBIC ACID & CITRIC ACID Trade Name: OXYNEX K LIQUID Manufacturer / Distributor Name: EMD CHEMICALS INC MERK CHIMIE SAS 0.07 100

[0297] Protocol for preparing compositions;

[0298] The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure: a) Preparation of a mixture comprising particles of bismuth oxychloride, particles of boron nitride and optionally particles of at least one other inorganic compound.

[0299] Once the mixing of each particle was carried out in accordance with Table 1, several tests were performed in order to measure the covering and opacifying power of the preparation of step a).

[0300] To this end, the measurement of the clarity defined by the parameter L* and the opacity of these 6 references was carried out according to the following protocol: Preparation of 1 L sample -Disperse 20% by mass of the pigment to be tested in 80% by mass of MARASTAR SR 910 E21 resin -Homogenize the sample by manually stirring with a spatula for 5 minutes -Pass the resulting dispersion through the EXAKT 50i three-cylinder, 1-1 gap -Place the film onto the BYK contrast card using an automatic applicator BYK Byko Drive XL and a 50g dumbbell -Allow the sample to air dry for 30 minutes at room temperature -Verify that the dry thickness is 35 + / - 5pm using a micrometer (palmer)

[0301] Measurement of L* and C on the following samples;

[0302] The parameter L* is determined by measurement using an Xrite CI62 colorimeter on white background and black background.

[0303] Opacity C is determined by measurement using an Xrite CI62 colorimeter on white background and black background.

[0304] The results of the measurement of clarity defined by the parameter L* and opacity are presented in Table 3 below, in particular for references E and F. [Tables 3] Preparation of step a) of reference E Preparation of step a) of reference F Particles INCI name: Bismuth oxychloride Trade name: Pearl Glo SFPG1099 Manufacturer / distributor name: SUN CHEMICALS % by weight 37 10 Particles INCI name: Boron nitride Trade name: PHUP 3000-02 Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB Manufacturer / distributor name: SAINT GOBAIN INOLEX % by weight 60 85 Particles INCI name: Calcium carbonate Trade name: PHUP 3000-02 Manufacturer / distributor name: OMYASKIN KOSTENLO SES MUSTEK % by weight 3 Particles - 5 INCI name: Kaolin Trade name: Kaolin Whitex % by weight Clarity measured on a black background as defined by parameter L* 89.26 89.99 Opacity in % 89.59 86.17

[0305] The preparation of step a) is then dispersed in the dispersant described in Table 1 and mixed with the colouring materials, thus forming a so-called pigment paste.

[0306] The pigment paste is then mixed with the white body at 95°C. Said white body being prepared in the following manner: We weigh and add all the ingredients to a melter under light stirring at 60 to 100 rpm which is heated to 96°C until a transparent liquid without solid particles is obtained.

[0307] The white body comprising a major part of the oils, pasty fats, modified hectorite, preservatives and waxes is weighed and heated to 95°C. Stirring allows homogenization immediately after heating.

[0308] Then the pigment pastes are added. The mixture is passed through a rotor-stator for good homogenization in the medium.

[0309] Additional fillers and / or film-forming agents and / or volatile oils are then added where present, the whole being homogenized before pouring at a temperature between 85 and 90° C. The mold is left to rest at room temperature for 10 minutes before being placed in the freezer for 5 minutes.

[0310] The sticks are unmolded and left to rest at room temperature in their packaging (stick).

[0311] Evaluation of the properties of the sticks obtained _;

[0312] For the implementation of this example, the sticks obtained are evaluated in order to characterize the following parameters: 1 - the structure of the stick, particularly its hardness; and 2- the application and sensory properties, in particular the homogeneity of the deposit and the glide during application.

[0313] The hardness properties of the different sticks are measured at 20°C using the so-called "butter wire" method, which consists of evaluating the firmness of a lipstick by measuring, in particular, its resistance to cutting the product into a stick. This measurement is carried out 24 hours after formulation, using a texture analyzer (TAXTPlus, MicroStable). Systems, UK) equipped with a 5 kg load cell and its Butter Cutter A / BC probe (Swantech, MicroStabil UK). This allows for the measurement of the maximum resistance force of the stick during the penetration of the butter cutter wire to a depth of 9 mm at a speed of 1.6 mm / s. To ensure the reproducibility of the measurements, the analysis is repeated on 6 sticks, and the relative difference between measurements should not exceed 10%, ideally 5%.

[0314] The value obtained for a lipstick stick is generally between 70g and 400g, knowing that for the composition according to the invention, we are looking for a hardness as close as possible to reference A (control) while presenting satisfactory characteristics of solidity, sensoriality, homogeneity and opacity.

[0315] The results of the hardness measurement are described in Table 4 below. [Tables 4] Reference A (control) B (not in invention) C (not in invention) D (according to the invention) E (according to the invention) F (according to the invention) Hardness (g) measured 1 day after manufacture of the stick 180 245 95 114 110 102

[0316] In addition, each stick was tested by a panel of experienced stick users (n=4) in order to evaluate all the sticks on the following parameters: *Sensory experience: Perception felt after applying the stick to the skin; uncomfortable, tight lipstick film, felt 0 / 10; light, comfortable film, does not pull, not drying, 10 / 10 *Homogeneity: Regularity of the stick film deposited on the skin after application, very heterogeneous and discontinuous 0 / 10, regular and continuous 10 / 10 * Application: Easy to obtain a smooth, even film on the skin; lipstick is stiff, dry, and rough (0 / 10); smooth, non-sticky, and soft (10 / 10) *Opacity: Colored stick film that hides the skin, transparent film 0 / 10, covering and opaque film 10 / 10.

[0317] The results of the study are described below: [Tables 5] References: Sensory quality, Homogeneity, Applications, Opacity, Average A (control) 9 9 8 10 9 B (outside invention) 7 5 7 5 6 C (outside the invention) 8 5 4 7 6 D (according to the invention) 7 7 5 8 6.75 E (according to the invention) 9 7 7 9 8 F (according to the invention) 9 7 6 9 7.75

[0318] These results show that the use of boron nitride particles in a composition containing bismuth oxychloride particles, replacing titanium dioxide and in sufficient quantity to obtain equivalent coverage, compensates for the adverse effects of bismuth oxychloride particles on the structure, and more specifically on homogeneity. Furthermore, this example also demonstrates that adding another inorganic compound, such as kaolin and calcium carbonate, balances the perceived characteristics of the studied parameters, such as sensory appeal and makeup results, with homogeneity of application, ease of application, and coverage of solid cosmetic compositions.

[0319] Table 6 below presents a summary of user panel comments for all sticks in this example. [Tableauxô] References Comments A This stick offers good sensory and makeup results. B This stick has a high rigidity; however, the makeup result is not satisfactory. Indeed, this stick has a greasy and oily feel upon application, and the makeup result—ease of application and evenness of application—is degraded. C This stick is quite soft, resulting in a larger deposit. Consequently, this stick offers better coverage with a thick (and not thin as desired) finish, but it is not evenly applied. It is not easy to apply. D This stick offers improved coverage compared to references B and C. The stick has an intermediate rigidity, falling between references B and C. Although satisfactory, the evenness of application and ease of application are not as good as those of reference A. This stick offers satisfactory tactile feel and opacity, with a tint and texture similar to those obtained with reference AF. This stick offers satisfactory tactile feel and opacity, with a tint and texture similar to those obtained with reference A.

[0320] Example 2: Measuring the shade of different lipstick sticks

[0321] For the purposes of this example, lipstick sticks G, H and I are sticks made from the same white body as described in example 1.

[0322] The objective of this example is to replace the titanium dioxide present in the control stick with bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles.

[0323] All the sticks were prepared following the same protocol as that described in example 1.

[0324] Several tests were carried out beforehand to determine the covering and opacifying power of the preparation comprising the mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles and at least one other inorganic compound, in order to be able to replace titanium dioxide in formulas, without impacting the desired coverage effect.

[0325] All the sticks are prepared following the same protocol as described in example 1.

[0326] The compositions of the different sticks used in this example are described in Table 7 below. [Paintings?] Ingredients Composition G (control) % Composition H (according to the invention) % Composition I (according to the invention) % White body - composition described in Table 2 63 63 63 Pigment INCI Name: Titanium Dioxide Trade Name: Titanium Dioxide W877 Manufacturer / Distributor Name: SENSIENT COSMETIC 5.21 Mixture 1 - 16 - Mixture 2 - - 16 Colorants 21.370 14.4 14.4 Dispersant INCI Name: pentaerythrityl adi-pate / caprate / caprylate / heptanoate Trade Name: Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB Manufacturer / Distributor Name: INOLEX QSP100 QSP100 QSP100

[0327] Mixture 1 consisting of: - 5% of zinc oxide particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1; - 35% bismuth oxychloride particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1; and - 60% boron nitride particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1.

[0328] Mixture 2, for its part, consists of: - 3% calcium carbonate particles by weight relative to the weight of the mixture 1; - 35% bismuth oxychloride particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1; and - 60% boron nitride particles by weight relative to the weight of mixture 1.

[0329] Method for measuring the colorimetric coordinates of lipsticks

[0330] Each lipstick composition is applied in eight successive passes on a contrast card with a black background.

[0331] Using a spectrophotometer, measurement of colorimetric coordinates on the L*a*b* CIE 1976 chromatic space.

[0332] DC Definition: The AC deviation is a measure of the difference in chromaticity between two colors and is calculated as follows: ACAM(aA(*A2 )+ bA* 2)

[0333] A DC of less than 2 means that the variation in shade between the references is not perceptible to the human eye

[0334] The results of the colorimetric coordinate measurement are described in Table 8 below. [Tables 8] DC on a black background / DC on a black background of composition G (control) Composition H (according to the invention) 1.57 Composition I (according to the invention) 1.92

[0335] The results demonstrate that the use of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles and optionally at least one other inorganic compound makes it possible to effectively replace titanium dioxide without affecting the shade despite a higher content within the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0336] Example 3: Coverage and opacity of a mixture of bismuth oxychloride particles and boron nitride particles in dispersion state before incorporation into a lipstick formulation:

[0337] Several tests were carried out to determine the covering and opacifying power of the mixture comprising particles of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride particles and optionally at least one other inorganic compound, compared with titanium dioxide, in order to be able to replace titanium dioxide in formulas, without impacting the desired coverage effect.

[0338] The measurement of clarity defined by the parameter L* and of opacity is carried out according to the same protocol as that described in example 1.

[0339] For the performance of the tests, 2 compositions were used, and are presented in Table 9. [Tables 9] Preparation J Preparation K Particles INCI Name: Bismuth Oxychloride Trade Name: Pearl Glo SFPG1099 Manufacturer / Distributor Name: SUN CHEMICALS % by weight 5 10 Particles INCI Name: Boron Nitride Trade Name: PHUP 3000-02 Lexfeel 700 EX LO MB Manufacturer / Distributor Name: 94 87 SAINT GOBAIN INOLEX % by weight Particles INCI Name: ALUMINIUM POWDER & SILICA Trade Name: VISIONAIRE Bright Silver Sea Manufacturer / Distributor Name: ECKART % by weight 1 Particles INCI Name: BARIUM SULFATE & ISOPROPYL TITANIUM TRIISOSTEARATE & SODIUM LAUROYL ASPARTATE & ZINC CHLORIDE Trade Name: ASI BaSO4 (PL) Manufacturer / Distributor Name: DAITO Kasei % by weight 3 Lightness measured on a dark background defined by parameter L* 89.72 88.96 Opacity in % 89.59 83.96

[0340] The results presented in this example demonstrate that preparations J and K exhibit a clarity defined by a parameter L* and a satisfactory opacity to offer an alternative to the use of titanium dioxide in solid cosmetic compositions.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition, preferably anhydrous, in solid form for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) Bismuth oxychloride particles; (ii) Boron nitride particles; and (iii) At least one wax; characterized in that it comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition and has a hardness of at least 30 Nm

2. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

3. Cosmetic composition one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mixture of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles represents a content of between 0.001 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the bismuth oxychloride particles represent a content of between 0.001 and 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that boron nitride particles represent a content of between 0.001 and 29% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises particles of at least one other inorganic compound selected from zinc oxide, cerium oxide, calcium carbonate, tricalcium phosphate, calcium sulfate, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, magnesium carbonate and hydroxycarbonate, magnesium myristate, zinc sulfate, barium sulfate, zinc sulfide, aluminum powder, calcined clay, kaolin, mica, silver, and combinations thereof.

7. A cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the particles of at least one other compound inorganic represent a content of between 0.01 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that the mixture of bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride particles represents at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride and at least one other inorganic compound particles.

9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total wax content is between 0.5 and 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one other additional ingredient selected from a lipophilic gelling agent, a pasty fat, an oil, a filler, a coloring matter, a film-forming polymer and mixtures thereof.

11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in the form of a stick or a composition packaged in a jar or a cup.

12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a lip stick, a liner pencil, an eyebrow pencil, an eyeshadow or eyeshadow, or a complexion corrector or concealer.

13. Cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12.

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