A process for treating keratinous materials using at least one silica-containing polysaccharide compound with acetoacetate functions

Abstract

Title: Process for treating keratinous materials using at least one silica-containing polysaccharide compound with acetoacetate functions. The present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials, in one or more successive steps, at least i) one or more compounds of formula (I) comprising at least one silicon atom and at least two acetoacetate functions, as well as their optical and geometric isomers, their acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them: formula (I) in which X, R1, R2, Ra, Rb, and n are as defined in the description, and optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent. Figure for the abstract: None

Description

Title of the invention: Process for treating keratinous materials using at least one silica-containing polysaccharide compound with acetoacetate functions. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates more particularly to the cosmetic field of keratin materials, and in particular to that of the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or eyebrows, and that of the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers and preferably of hair.

[0002] It aims to propose in particular new treatment processes, especially cosmetic, including the application on keratinous materials of an oligosaccharide / polysaccharide compound comprising at least one silicon atom and at least two acetoacetate functions, and possibly a crosslinking agent, which are particularly interesting with regard to their technical performance, in particular in terms of the durability of the deposits they allow to be obtained, and the sensory sensations they provide to the user. Previous technique

[0003] Cosmetic products classically require the implementation of one or more film-forming polymers in order to obtain a quality deposit of these products on keratinous materials, and in particular giving satisfaction to the expectations detailed below.

[0004] Thus, in the field of skin and / or lip makeup, it is particularly expected that the deposit formed will not transfer upon contact with fingers or clothing.

[0005] It must also exhibit good resistance to water, particularly rain or showering, as well as perspiration and sebum, and even to food fats, especially cooking oils when this deposit forms on the lips. Furthermore, this deposit must be comfortable. Depending on the application or consumer demand, deposits are also sought that allow for variations in appearance from glossy to matte.

[0006] For this purpose, it is used in makeup products, such as mascaras, eyeliners, eyeshadows or lipsticks, and in hair application products, and more particularly in their organic and especially oily phases, as dispersions of nanometric polymer particles, as a film-forming agent.

[0007] However, the compositions of the prior art show a durability over time, in particular of the hairstyle, which is not always satisfactory.

[0008] There is also significant consumer demand for the use of more natural compositions, implementing compounds of natural origin possibly modified.

[0009] Furthermore, in the field of hair care, a new range of products called hair makeup or "Hair Make-up" has recently been developed. These products guarantee temporary hair coloring that lasts after 1 to 3 shampoos.

[0010] They therefore constitute an alternative, particularly attractive for consumers, to permanent coloring, provided of course that the color effect is effectively guaranteed to withstand contact with water and a few shampoos.

[0011] This requirement is also met in particular through the implementation of effective film-forming agents.

[0012] It is also known from compositions, in particular film-forming cosmetics, comprising at least one silylated pullulan obtained from pullulan and N,O-bistrimethylsilylacetamide (see for example WO2008126251 Al) or a polysaccharide compound modified with silicone (see for example WO2014181747) or a polysaccharide modified with silicone comprising one or more silicone residues (see for example WO2021187306) or a sugar compound resulting from the reaction with an organopolysiloxane containing an isocyanate group and an organic compound containing an isocyanate group (see for example EP2647366) or a modified pullulan resulting from the reaction between a particular pullulan and a silicone containing an isocyanate group (see for example JP2023062923).

[0013] In general, the processes and treatments described above do not allow access to deposits, either on keratin fibers or on the skin and lips, that meet all the aforementioned requirements, namely very good resistance to water, particularly shampoos for hair, and / or to oils, especially for lips, and that are also comfortable for users to wear. Description of the invention

[0014] There therefore remains a need for a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, intended for application on the skin which allows obtaining a non-sticky deposit, which transfers little or not at all, shiny or matte, comfortable, long-lasting and whose implementation does not necessarily require the presence of an oily phase, while being of natural origin.

[0015] There also remains a need for a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, to obtain deposits that are resistant to water and grease, especially sebum.

[0016] There also remains a need for a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, coloring and intended for hair application, which provides deposits with good resistance to water and shampoos to guarantee color retention over time comparable to direct coloring.

[0017] The present invention is specifically designed to meet all or part of these needs. Summary of the invention

[0018] The problems mentioned above are solved by implementing a process for treating keratinous materials, comprising applying to said keratinous materials, in one or more successive steps, at least: (i) one or more compounds of formula (I) comprising at least one silicon atom and at least two acetoacetate functions, as well as their optical, geometric, acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them:

[0019] [Chem.l]

[0020] formula (I) in which: - R1 represents a polysaccharide radical comprising at least one silicon atom, multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, consisting of at least 2 monosaccharide units, preferably at least 3 monosaccharide units, more preferably at least 10 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms; - R2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in Ci to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl; - X is a heteroatom or group chosen from -O-, -S-, -N(R')-, and their combinations such as -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, -N(R')-C(O)-O-, -N(R')-C(O)-N(R')-, preferably X represents -O-; - Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy group (OH), preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, more preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom; - n denotes an integer from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200; and ii) possibly at least one crosslinking agent.

[0021] The inventors have thus found, surprisingly, that the application on keratinous materials of compounds of formula (I) as described above comprising at least one silicon atom and at least two acetoacetate functions, possibly associated with crosslinking agents, makes it possible to provide deposits having better resistance properties to external aggressions, such as oils in particular food oils, sweat and / or sebum and water, compared to compounds not carrying acetoacetate functions. Definitions

[0022] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0023] - by "multivalent" we mean a radical that is at least divalent; the valence of the radical Ri is equal to n as defined previously, the radical Ri thus being "n-valent". As an example, when n is equal to 3, the radical Ri is trivalent;

[0024] - For the purposes of this invention, "keratinous materials" means to refer to including the lips, skin, nails and keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, preferably the lips and / or hair.

[0025] - By "cosmetic active ingredient": we mean an organic or organosilicon compound, or a A mineral compound that can be incorporated into a cosmetic formulation to have an effect on keratinous materials, whether this effect is immediate or achieved through repeated applications. Examples of cosmetic active ingredients include colored or non-colored, fluorescent or non-fluorescent compounds such as optical brighteners, or UVA and / or UVB filters; anti-aging actives; or those intended to benefit the skin, such as those acting on the skin barrier, deodorant actives, antiperspirant actives, exfoliating actives, antioxidant actives, and other active ingredients. moisturizers, sebum-regulating agents, agents designed to combat the effects of pollution, antimicrobial or bactericidal agents, perfumes, and coloring materials such as direct dyes or pigments, preferably pigments.

[0026] Preferably, the cosmetic actives are chosen from a) colouring materials chosen from pigments, direct colorants, and their mixtures, b) care actives for keratinous materials, preferably of the skin, c) UV filters, and d) their mixtures.

[0027] - For the purposes of this invention, "fatty body" means a compound organic insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, and preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1%); in addition, fats are soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as halogenated solvents like chloroform, dichloromethane, inferior alcohols like ethanol or aromatic solvents like benzene or toluene.

[0028] - By "alkyl" we mean a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched.

[0029] - By "a (Cx-Cy)alkyl group" is meant an alkyl radical comprising x to y carbon atoms.

[0030] - By "(hetero)aryl" we mean the aryl or heteroaryl groups.

[0031] - By "(hetero)cycloalkyl" we mean cycloalkyl or heterocycloalkyl groups.

[0032] - The "aryl" or "heteroaryl" radicals or the aryl or heteroaryl part of a radicals can be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom, chosen from:

[0033] - a (poly)(hydroxy)alkyl radical in Ci-C6, preferably in CrC4;

[0034] - a halogen atom such as chlorine, fluorine or bromine;

[0035] - a hydroxy group;

[0036] - a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 (poly)-hydroxyalkoxy radical;

[0037] - an amino radical;

[0038] - an amino radical substituted by one or two alkyl radicals, identical or different, in Ci-C6, Ci-C6, preferably in CrC4;

[0039] - an acylamino radical (-N(R)-C(O)-R') in which the radical R is an atom of hydrogen,

[0040] - an alkyl radical in CrC4 and the radical R' is an alkyl radical in CrC4; a radical carbamoyl ((R)2N-C(O)-) in which the R radicals, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in Ci-C4;

[0041] - an alkylsulfonylamino radical (R'-S(O)2-N(R)-) in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C4 alkyl radical and the R' radical represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical;

[0042] - an aminosulfonyl radical ((R)2N-S(O)2-) in which the R radicals, identical or no, they represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical in CrC4;

[0043] - a carboxylic radical in acidic or sal form (preferably with a metal) alkaline or an ammonium, substituted or not);

[0044] - a cyano group (CN);

[0045] - a polyhalogeno(Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably trifluoromethyl (CF3).

[0046] - The cyclic or heterocyclic part of a non-aromatic radical can be substituted by at least one substituent attached to a carbon atom chosen from the following groups:

[0047] - hydroxy,

[0048] - CrC4 alkoxy, (poly)hydroxyalkoxy C2-C4,

[0049] - alkylcarbonylamino ((RC(O)-N(R')-) in which the radical R' is an atom of hydrogen, an alkyl radical in Ci-C4 and the radical R is an alkyl radical in CrC2, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in CrC4;

[0050] - alkylcarbonyloxy ((RC(O)-O-) in which the radical R is a Cr alkyl radical C4, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in Cr C4;

[0051] - alkcoxycarbonyl ((ROC(O)-) in which the radical R is a Cr alkyl radical C4, amino substituted by one or two identical or different alkyl groups in Cr C4;

[0052] - A cyclic radical, heterocyclic radical, or a non-aromatic part of a radical aryl or heteroaryl, can also be substituted by one or more oxo groups.

[0053] - A hydrocarbon chain is unsaturated when it comprises one or more double bonds and / or one or more triple bonds, which may or may not be conjugated.

[0054] - An "aryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic group hydrocarbon, condensed or not, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and of which at least one ring is aromatic; preferably the aryl radical is a phenyl, biphenyl, naphthyl, indenyl, anthracenyl, or tetrahydronaphthyl.

[0055] - A "heteroaryl" radical represents a mono- or polycyclic group, condensed or non-condensed, comprising 5 to 14 bonds, 1 to 6 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, and of which at least one The cycle is aromatic; preferably a heteroaryl radical is chosen from acridinyl, benzimidazolyl, benzobistriazolyl, benzopyrazolyl, benzopyridazinyl, benzoquinolyl, benzothiazolyl, benzotriazolyl, benzoxazolyl, pyridinyl, tetrazolyl, dihydrothiazolyl, imidazopyridinyl, imidazolyl, indolyl, isoquinolyl, naphthoimidazolyl, naphthooxazolyl, naphthopyrazolyl, oxadiazolyl, oxazolyl, oxazolopyridyl, phenazinyl, phenooxazolyl, pyrazinyl, pyrazolyl, pyrilyl, pyrazoyltriazyl, pyridyl, pyridinoimidazolyl, pyrrolyl, quinolyl, tetrazolyl, thiadiazolyl, thiazolyl, thiazolopyridinyl, thiazoylimidazolyl, thiopyrylyl, triazolyl, xanthylyl.

[0056] - A "cyclic" or "cycloalkyl" radical is a non-cyclic hydrocarbon radical aromatic, mono- or polycyclic, condensed or non-condensed, containing from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, which may have from 1 to several unsaturations, preferably the cycloalkyl is a cyclohexyl group.

[0057] - A "heterocyclic" or "heterocycloalkyl" radical is a non-cyclic radical aromatic mono or polycyclic, condensed or non-condensed, containing 3 to 9 links, comprising 1 to 4 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and selenium atoms, preferably the heterocycloalkyl is chosen from epoxide, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, morpholinyl, or dithiolane.

[0058] - An "alkyl" radical is a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in particularly in Ci-C6, preferably in CrC4.

[0059] - An "alkoxy" radical is an alkyl-oxy radical in which the alkyl radical is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, in Ci-C6 preferentially in CrC4.

[0060] - A "(poly)(hydroxy)alkyl" radical designates a Ci-C6 alkyl radical, of preferably in Ci-C4 possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy radicals, preferably substituted by 1 to 4 hydroxy groups, more particularly between 1 and 3.

[0061] - A "sugar" radical is a monosaccharide or disaccharide radical. Examples include as sugar radical: sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose or lactose.

[0062] - By "monosaccharide" is meant a monosaccharide sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula CX(H2O)X, with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is inclusively between 5 and 7, preferably x is equal to 6, they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, as well as their salts and solvates, such as hydrates.

[0063] - By "monosaccharide unit" is meant a mono, di or polyvalent radical monosaccharide possibly containing at least one Si atom.

[0064] - By "versatile radical", we mean a radical that is at least divalent, or at least trivalent or at least tetravalent.

[0065] - By "disaccharide" is meant a di-osidic sugar which is a compound made up of of two sugars linked together by O-glycosidic bonds, said compounds being made up of two monosaccharides (also called mono-glycosidics) as defined above, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6, particularly the monosaccharide units being linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in anomer a (alpha) or [3 (beta), each glycosidic unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides, said disaccharide comprising at least one Si atom.

[0066] - By "polysaccharide", we mean a polysaccharide radical which is a polymer consisting of at least two sugars, identical or different from each other, preferably at least 3 sugars, linked together by O-glycosidic bonds, said polymers being made up of monosaccharide units (also called mono-glycosidic units) as defined above, said monosaccharide units each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, particularly the monosaccharide units are linked together in 1,4 or 1,6 in α (alpha) or [3 (beta) anomer, each sugar unit being able to be of L or D configuration, as well as its salts and solvates such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides, said polysaccharide comprising at least one Si atom.These sugars may possibly carry one or more anionic radicals such as the radicals -C(O)-OH, -SO3H, -O-SO3H or their salts -C(O)O Cat+, -SO3 Cat+, -O-SO3 Cat+ with Cat+ as defined above or below.

[0067] - By the "hydroxy (-OH), carbonyl (-C(O)), carboxy (-C(O)-OH) or amino" groups -NH2, are optionally substituted by one or more R3, R5, R'3 and / or R 3 groups. It is understood that the hydrogen atom of the group in question -OH, -C(O)-H, -C(O)-OH or -NH2 can be substituted by an R3, R5, R'3 and / or R 3 group to lead respectively to -O-R3, -C(O)-R3, -C(O)-OR3, or -N(H)-R3, -O-R5, -C(O)-R5, -C(O)-OR5, or -N(H)-R5, -O-R'3, -C(O)-R'3, -C(O)-OR'3, or -N(H)-R'3, -OR 3, -C(O)-R 3, -C(O)-OR 3, or -N(H)-R”3.

[0068] - By "linear polysaccharide radical" is meant a polysaccharide of which The sugar ends are not linked together; examples of linear polysaccharide radicals include radicals derived from cellulose, starch, amylose, alginates, pectin, hyaluronic acid, dextran, inulin, guar gum, glucans, carrageenan, pullulan, and their derivatives; preferably cellulose, hyaluronic acid, or pullulan, plus preferentially pullulanes, it being understood that said linear polysaccharide radical comprises at least one Si atom.

[0069] - By "cyclic polysaccharide radical" is meant a polysaccharide whose The ends of sugars are linked together by O-glycosidic bonds; as examples of cyclic polysaccharide radicals, we can cite cyclodextrin radicals, it being understood that said cyclic polysaccharide radical comprises at least one Si atom.

[0070] - By "anionic counterion" is meant an anion or anionic group associated with the cationic charge; more particularly the anionic counter-ion is chosen from i) halides such as chloride, bromide; ii) nitrates; iii) sulfonates including the Ci-C6 alkylsulfonates: Alk-S(O)2O such as methylsulfonate or mesylate and ethylsulfonate; iv) arylsulfonates: Ar-S(O)2O such as benzenesulfonate and toluenesulfonate or tosylate; v) citrate; vi) succinate; vii) tartrate; viii) lactate; ix) alkyl sulfates: Alk-OS(O)O such as methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; x) aryl sulfates: Ar-OS(O)O such as benzene sulfate and toluene sulfate; xi) alkoxysulfates: Alk-OS(O)2O such as methoxysulfate and ethoxysulfate; xii) aryloxysulfates: Ar-OS(O)2 O, xiii) phosphate; xiv) acetate; xv) triflate; and xvi) borates such as tetrafluoroborate, their mixtures.The anionic counter-ion is chosen so that it ensures the electroneutrality of the compounds of formula (I); when z cationic charges are to be neutralized, z anions of charge (-1) or z / 2 anions of charge (-2) can thus be used.

[0071] - By "cationic counter-ion" is meant a cation or a cationic group associated with the anionic charge; more specifically, the cationic counterion is preferably chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium salts and mixtures thereof. The cationic counterion(s) may also be organic, such as ammonium tri(Ci-C4)(alkyl)ammonium or trihydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylammonium.

[0072] It is understood that when the compound(s) of formula (I) comprise SO3 or -O-SO3 and ammonium -N+R”3 groups, the counter-ions Cat+ and An respectively are present or absent, to ensure the electroneutrality of the molecule (I).

[0073] Thus, for example, the cationic counter-ion is chosen so that it ensures the electroneutrality of the compounds of formula (I); and when z' anionic charges are to be neutralized, z' cations of charge (+1) or z' / 2 cations of charge (+2) can thus be used.

[0074] - The "solvates" represent the hydrates as well as the association with alcohols linear or branched C2-C6 also called (C2-C6)alkanols such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol.

[0075] - By "UV-A filter" is meant a chromophore derived from a compound which filters (or absorbs) UV-A ultraviolet rays at a wavelength between 320 and 400 nm. We can distinguish between short UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 320 and 340 nm), and long UV-A filters (absorbing rays at a wavelength between 340 and 400 nm).

[0076] - By "UV-B filter" is meant a chromophore derived from a compound that filters (or absorbs) ultraviolet UV-B rays at a wavelength between 280 and 320 nm.

[0077] - By "chromophore" is meant a radical derived from a colorless or colored compound capable of absorbing UV and / or visible radiation at a wavelength Xabs between 250 and 800 nm. Preferably, the chromophore is colored, i.e., it absorbs wavelengths in the visible range, i.e., preferably between 400 and 800 nm. Preferably, chromophores appear colored to the eye; particularly between 400 and 700 nm (Ullmann's Encyclopedia, 2005, Wiley-VcH, Verlag "Dies, General Survey", § 2.1 Basic Principle of Color).

[0078] - By "anhydrous composition" it is understood that said composition contains a quantity less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight of water, better less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition in question, even more preferably the composition in question is free of water.

[0079] - The terms "coloring agent" and "coloring material" are equivalent.

[0080] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one" or synonymous with "comprising one or more", unless otherwise specified.

[0081] - by "(co)polymer", we mean a homopolymer or a copolymer.

[0082] - by "homopolymer" is meant a polymer resulting from the repetition of units polymeric or monomers, of which said monomers are all identical, i.e. of the same chemical nature (for example -AAAA-...-AA-),

[0083] - by "copolymer" is meant a polymer resulting from the repetition of units polymeric or monomeric, of which at least two repeating monomers are different, i.e. of different chemical natures (for example -ABAA-...-BA-, it being understood that A is different from B); preferably, the (co)polymer(s) of the invention are copolymers.

[0084] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0085] The expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more".

[0086] It is understood that the treatment processes according to the invention, as well as the compositions implemented, are non-therapeutic. Detailed description

[0087] METHOD FOR TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATERIALS

[0088] The first object of the invention is a one- or multi-step treatment process applied to keratinous materials, in particular keratin fibers or skin: (i) at least one compound of formula (I) and their optical, geometric isomers, their organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, or a composition containing them; ii) possibly at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below; iv) possibly at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below; and (v) possibly at least one fat, in particular at least one oil, preferably volatile as defined above and below, more preferably isododecane.

[0089] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the treatment process according to the invention involves the simultaneous application of ingredients i), possibly ii), possibly iv), and possibly v).

[0090] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the treatment process according to the invention comprises at least 2 steps in which ingredients i), ii), optionally iv), and optionally v), are applied in separate and successive steps to the keratin materials, it being understood that cosmetic active ingredient(s) iv) may be found together with ingredient i) and / or with ingredient(s) ii) and / or with ingredient v) when it is present.

[0091] According to a particular embodiment, ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin materials, then ingredient(s) ii) are applied to the keratin materials, if present, it being understood that ingredient v), if present, may be applied with i) and / or with ii) and / or with iv), when iv) is present, and that ingredient(s) iv), when present, may be applied together with i) and / or ii) and / or v), preferably with i) and / or ii).

[0092] According to another particular embodiment, ingredient(s) ii) are applied to the keratin materials, then ingredient(s) i) are applied to the keratin materials, it being understood that ingredient v), when present, may be applied with i) and / or with ii) and / or with iv), when iv) is present, and that the or ingredients v) when present may be found applied together with i) and / or ii).

[0093] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a process, in particular cosmetic, for treating keratinous materials, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a cosmetic process for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

[0095] According to another embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a skin care process.

[0096] According to another embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials is a process for applying makeup to the skin, lips, eyelashes, and eyebrows. According to this embodiment, the process comprises at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from coloring materials, preferably pigments.

[0097] According to one aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention implementing ingredients i), possibly ii), possibly iv), and possibly v), is a treatment for coloring keratinous fibers.

[0098] According to another aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention implementing ingredients i), possibly ii), possibly iv), and possibly v) is a skin care process.

[0099] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a treatment process, particularly for cosmetic purposes, of keratinous materials, especially for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of at least:

[0100] - a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular as defined above and below, and possibly v) at least one oil, in particular volatile as defined above and below, preferably isododecane;

[0101] - a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical and geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, and optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined previously and below, possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined previously and below, and possibly v) at least one oil, in particular volatile as defined previously and below, preferably isododecane;

[0102] - a composition, referred to as "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above and below, iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below, and possibly v) at least one oil, in particular volatile as defined above and below, preferably isododecane;

[0103] - a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above and below, possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below, and possibly v) at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil as defined above and below, preferably isododecane; and / or

[0104] - a composition, referred to as "C5", comprising (iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below, and possibly v) at least one oil, in particular volatile as defined above and below, preferably isododecane;

[0105] it being understood that the compositions “Cl”, “C2” and “C3” are anhydrous, and it being understood that the compositions “C4” and “C5” can be anhydrous or aqueous.

[0106] According to one aspect of the invention, the process for treating keratinous materials, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, employs a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined below, notably selected from a) coloring agents, such as pigments, direct colorants, and mixtures thereof, b) active ingredients for the care of keratinous materials, preferably skin, c) UV filters, and d) mixtures thereof, and in particular at least one coloring agent, more particularly at least one pigment,and optionally (v) at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil as defined above and below, preferably isododecane.

[0107] According to another aspect, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of fibers keratin, preferably of hair, employs a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its salts of organic or mineral acid or base, and / or solvated, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular as defined above and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile as defined above and below, preferably isododecane, preferably said composition "C2" comprising v) a volatile oil.

[0108] According to another aspect, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, employs a composition, referred to as "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined below, iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile as defined above and below, preferably isododecane.

[0109] According to another aspect, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention, in particular for the care and / or makeup of skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, employs a composition referred to as "Cl" and a composition referred to as "C4", said composition "Cl" comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvated, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below, optionally v) at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil as defined above and below, preferably isododecane, and said composition "C4" comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above and below,optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil as defined above and below, preferably isododecane.

[0110] According to another embodiment of the process of the invention, the ingredient(s) i), optionally iv) and optionally v) are applied together, namely simultaneously, to the keratinous materials in a first step, then in a In a subsequent step, the ingredient(s) ii), possibly iv), and possibly v) are applied to said materials.

[0111] According to a particular embodiment, the process according to the invention comprises two successive application steps on said keratinous materials, of two different compositions.

[0112] According to a particular embodiment of the process, in the first step a "Cl" composition is applied to the keratinous materials, then a "C4" composition is applied to said keratinous materials.

[0113] According to yet another embodiment of the process of the invention, ingredient(s) ii) and optionally iv) is / are applied to the keratinous materials, then ingredient(s) i) and optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, are applied to said keratinous materials. In particular, composition “C4” is applied to the keratinous materials and then composition “Cl” is applied.

[0114] According to another variant of the process according to the invention, a composition "Cl" containing i), and v) optionally at least one oil, in particular volatile as defined above and below, preferably isododecane, is applied, and sequentially a composition "C4" containing ii), optionally iv), and optionally v), preferably composition "Cl" being applied before composition "C4".

[0115] According to a particular embodiment of the process, in the first step a composition “C2” is applied to the keratinous materials, then a composition “C4” is applied to said keratinous materials.

[0116] According to another embodiment of the process according to the invention, a composition “C2” containing i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil as defined above and below, preferably isododecane, is applied, and sequentially a composition “C4” containing ii) at least one crosslinking agent, optionally at least one cosmetic active ingredient, iv), and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil as defined above and below, preferably composition “C2” being applied before composition “C4”,and given that the possible crosslinking agent(s) contained in composition "C2" may be identical or different from the crosslinking agent(s) contained in composition "C4", preferably the crosslinking agent(s) are different.

[0117] The "C4" and / or "C5" compositions of the process according to the invention, which comprise at least one fat, in particular at least one oil, and water, may be in the form of a direct or reverse emulsion.

[0118] The compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” and / or “C5” of the process according to the invention can therefore be applied directly as such to the target keratinous materials or even be formed directly on the surface of these keratinous materials.

[0119] According to the invention, three modes of implementation are distinguished, called "1-step application mode", "2-step application mode" and "3-step application mode".

[0120] According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, the process is carried out in one step by applying to the keratinous materials the composition “Cl”, “C2” or “C3”, as defined above.

[0121] Thus, according to one embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention comprises a single step of applying composition "Cl" or composition "C2" or composition "C3" to said keratinous materials.

[0122] The term “one-step application method” means the direct application to the target keratinous materials of a single composition according to the invention, namely composition “Cl” or “C2” or “C3”.

[0123] After application of composition "Cl", "C2" or "C3", a residual and non-sticky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to edible oils, water, sebum, and friction.

[0124] According to another embodiment of the process of the invention, the process is carried out in two steps.

[0125] The term "2-step application method" refers to the successive application, to the target keratinous material, of two different compositions, for example "Cl" and "C4", or "C2" and "C4", or "C3" and "C4". Preferably, "Cl" then "C4", "C2" then "C4", or "C3" then "C4".

[0126] According to another embodiment, the process of the invention is carried out in 3 steps.

[0127] The term "3-gesture application mode" refers to the sequential application of 3 distinct compositions “Cl” to “C5”. According to this method of application, for example, according to one embodiment, the following successive application is carried out on keratinous materials: a) a composition “Cl”, then |3) a composition “C4”, then y) a composition “C5”, preferably “Cl” then “C4” respectively “C5” or “C5” respectively “C4”.

[0128] According to another embodiment, the sequential application is carried out on keratinous materials, a) of a composition for example “C4”, and |3) of a composition “Cl” or “C2”, and further y) of a composition “C5”, preferably composition “C4” is applied before composition “Cl” or “C2”.

[0129] In 2- or 3-step application methods, the composition applied first, for example "Cl", is conventionally referred to as the "base coat", and the composition(s) applied over it are generally referred to as the "top coat". Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention employs a 1-step or a 2-step application method.

[0130] After applying the different compositions "Cl" to "C5", a residual and non-sticky deposit is advantageously obtained. The deposit obtained is also resistant to edible oils, water, and shampoos.

[0131] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions are applied to dry keratinous materials.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions are applied to wet or moist keratinous materials, i.e. to keratinous materials containing water on the surface.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment, the keratin materials are dried after application of compositions "Cl" to "C5", in particular after application of each different composition. The drying step can be carried out with a drying device such as a helmet, a hairdryer, or a climazon. When the drying step is carried out with a helmet or a hairdryer, the drying temperature is between 40 and 110 °C, preferably between 50 and 90 °C.

[0134] After the drying stage, a shaping step of the keratin fibers can be carried out using a flat iron, a crimping or curling iron, or a steam iron, preferably a flat iron or a steam iron. Preferably, the shaping step is performed at a temperature ranging from 120°C to 230°C, in particular from 150°C to 210°C, even more preferably from 160°C to 210°C, and better still from 180°C to 210°C. The iron can be applied to the keratin fibers in successive touches separated by a few seconds, or by progressive movement or gliding along the hair. Preferably, the iron is applied in a continuous movement from the root to the tip of the hair, in one or more passes.

[0135] According to one aspect, the present invention relates to a treatment method, particularly for cosmetic purposes, of keratinous materials, especially for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising a step of applying to the skin or said lips or eyelashes or eyebrows, a composition “C1”, “C2” or “C3”, in particular containing at least one material coloring, in particular as defined above, and more particularly at least one pigment.

[0136] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the successive application of at least:

[0137] - a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical and geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above and below, possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below, and possibly v) at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil as defined above and below, preferably isododecane; then

[0138] - a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above and below, possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above and below, and possibly v) at least one oil, in particular volatile as defined above and below, preferably isododecane;

[0139] at least one of the compositions "Cl" and / or "C4" containing at least one colouring material, in particular as defined above and below, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferably composition "Cl" includes at least one pigment.

[0140] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the successive application of at least: - a "Cl" composition as defined previously; then - a "C4" composition as defined previously; then - a "C5" composition as defined previously; it being understood that the compositions "Cl" and / or "C4" and / or "C5" contain at less one coloring matter, in particular as defined below, preferably at least one pigment. Preferably, composition "C5" comprises at least one pigment.

[0141] According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the successive application of at least: - a "C2" or "C3" composition as defined above; and - a "C4" composition as defined previously; provided that compositions “C2” or “C3” contain at least iv) a colouring material, in particular as defined below, and / or composition “C4” contains at least one colouring material, in particular as defined below, preferably composition “C2” or “C3” includes at least one pigment.

[0142] COMPOUNDS OF FORMULA (I)

[0143] As indicated above, the treatment process according to the invention comprises applying to keratinous materials at least one or more compounds chosen from compounds of formula (I) comprising at least one silicon atom and at least two acetoacetate functions, as well as their optical, geometric isomers, their organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them:

[0144] [Chem.2]

[0145] formula (I) in which: - R1 represents a polysaccharide radical comprising at least one silicon atom, multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, consisting of at least 2 monosaccharide units, preferably at least 3 monosaccharide units, more preferably at least 10 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms; - R2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in Ci to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl; - X is a heteroatom or group chosen from -O-, -S-, -N(R')-, and their combinations such as -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, -N(R')-C(O)-O-, -N(R')-C(O)-N(R')-, preferably X represents -O-; - Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxyl (OH) group, preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom or an (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, more preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom; - n denotes an integer from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200; and ii) possibly at least one crosslinking agent.

[0146] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical and / or geometric isomers, their acid or base salts, and / or their solvates such as hydrates, are such that R1 represents a multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, polysaccharide radical comprising at least one silicon atom, consisting of at least 2 monosaccharide units, preferably at least 3 monosaccharide units, more preferably at least 10 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, and: - of which one or more of the hydroxyl (-OH) groups of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units are optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from R3, R5; and / or - of which one or more of the carboxy groups (-C(O)-OH) of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units are optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from R'3 and / or - of which one or more of the amino groups -NH2 of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units, are optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from R 3, R5; with : - R3, identical or different, represents a group chosen from: 1) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+, 2) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, and 3) (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl, linear or branched, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group possibly being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (CrC22)alkyl group being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxyl (-OH); b) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+; c) sulfate -O-SO3, Cat+; d) -(CH2-CH2-O)p-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; f) -C(O)-R4; g) -C(O)-O-R4; h) -OC(O)-R4; i) -C(O)-N(R')-R4; j) -N(R')-C(O)-R4; k) ammonium -N+R”3; and 1) mixtures thereof; preferably, R3, identical or different, represents a group selected from a1) (hydroxy) (Ci-C4) linear or branched alkyl, a2) (hydroxy)(Ci-C6) linear or branched alkylcarbonyl; - R'3, identical or different, represents a group chosen from: 1) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group optionally being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (Ci-C22)alkyl group optionally being substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxyl (-OH); b) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4 and mixtures thereof; or 2) -Si(R”')3 ; and their mixtures; - R”3, identical or different, represents a linear or branched (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl group, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group optionally being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (Ci-C22)alkyl group optionally being substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxy (-OH); b) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; c) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; and 1) mixtures thereof; preferably R”3, identical or different, represents a linear or branched (hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl group; - R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C8)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, more preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, in particular methyl; - R5 represents 1) a -CO-NH-(CH2)m- [Si(Rc)2-O-Si(Rc)2-(CH2)]q-SiRcu-(OSiR d3)3 u group or 2) a -Si(R'”3) group or 3) an alkyl radical (C1-C12) possibly interrupted by a heteroatom such as an oxygen atom and / or a carbonyl and / or their combinations such as esters said alkyl radical being substituted by at least one -Si(R”')3 radical and possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy radical; preferably R5 denotes -CO-NH-(CH2)m-Si -(OSiR”'3)3; - Rc independently represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group or an alkoxy(Ci-C2) group or an -OSi(CH3)3 group, preferably a -CH3 group; - Rd independently represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably CH3; -R”, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC 6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; -R”' independently represents an alkyl radical Ci-C6 preferably CrC4 more preferably Ci-C2 such as methyl; - m denotes an integer from 1 to 10, preferably 3; - q denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1; - u represents an integer from 1 to 3; - p denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3; - An represents an anionic counter ion; - Cat+ represents a cationic counter ion; it being understood that the radical R1 contains at least one Si atom.

[0147] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, R'3, identical or different, represents a group selected from the (hydroxy)(Ci-C4)alkyls, linear or branched;

[0148] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, R'3, identically represents a -Si(R”')3 group, preferably a -Si(Me)3 group.

[0149] According to a preferred embodiment, R1 is a polysaccharide radical substituted by one or more radicals such as -CO-NH-(CH2)m-[Si(Rc)2 O-Si(Rc)2-(CH2)]q-SiRc u-(OSiRd3)3 u or a -Si(CH3)3 group, preferably-CO-NH-(CH2)m-Si-(OSiR'”3)3 such as -CO-NH- ALK-Si(OSiMe3)3, with ALK a linear saturated divalent hydrocarbon chain C2-C6, preferably C2-C4 such as C3, and with m, Rc, q, Rd, u, R” ' as described above.

[0150] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, R1 is a pullulan radical substituted by one or more radicals such as -CO-NH-(CH2)m-[Si(Rc)2 O-Si(Rc)2-(CH2)]q-SiRcu-(OSiRd3)3u or a -Si(CH3)3 group, preferably -CO-NH-(CH2)m-Si -(OSiR'”3)3 such as -CO-NH-ALK-Si(OSiMe3)3, with ALK a saturated linear divalent hydrocarbon chain C2-C6, preferably C2-C4 such as C3.

[0151] According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) of formula (I) and their optical, geometric, and / or solvated acid or base salts according to the invention are such that the polysaccharide radical comprising at least one silicon atom represented by R1 is selected from polysaccharide radicals comprising at least one silicon atom derived from agarose, starch and its derivatives, cationic starch, alginate and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid, cellulose and its derivatives, in particular selected from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and hydroxybutylcellulose, carrageenan, curdlan, dextran, glucan, guar gum, gellan, konjac, inulin, pectin, pullulan, scleroglucan, xanthan gum and their derivatives, preferably chosen from cellulose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid, and pullulan and its derivatives,and more preferably chosen from pullulan and its derivatives, such as trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan.

[0152] By "derivatives" is meant compounds obtained by chemical modification of the aforementioned compounds. In particular, these may be esters, amides, or ethers of said compounds.

[0153] According to a particular embodiment, compounds of formula (I) possessing acetoacetate functions are selected from:

[0154] a) cellulose comprising at least one Si atom, starch comprising at least one Si atom, amylose comprising at least one Si atom and their derivatives, of formula (IV) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0156] b) alginate comprising at least one Si atom, pectin comprising at least one Si atom and their derivatives, of formula (V) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0157] [Chem.4]

[0158] c) hyaluronic acid comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (VI) as well as their isomers and solvates:

[0159] [Chem.5] (VI)

[0160] d) dextran comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (VII) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (VII)

[0162] e) inulin comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (VIII) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0163] [Chem.7]

[0164] f) Guar gum comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (IX) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0165] [Chem. 8] R'O OR'

[0166] g) glucan comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (X) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0168] h) carrageenan comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, in particular of formula (XI), as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0169] [Chem. 10] R7 / q (XI)

[0170] in particular selected from the derivatives y-carrageenan, ô-carrageenan, q-carrageenan, v-carrageenan, X-carrageenan, and their respective basic forms [3-carrageenan, a-carrageenan, K-carrageenan, i-carrageenan, 0-carrageenan, it being understood that the carragenans comprise at least two formula groups (XV) as described below;

[0171] i) cyclodextrin comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (XIII):

[0172] [Chem. 11]

[0173] j) pullulan comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (XIV) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates:

[0174] [Chem. 12]

[0175] formulas (IV) to (XIV) in which: - R6, whether identical or different, represents CH2OR3 or -CH2- OR5 or -C(O)-OR3. - R7, whether identical or different, represents a radical R3 or R5 or a group R9 of formula (XV):

[0176] [Chem. 13]

[0177] formula (XV) in which Ra, Rb, and R2 are such as previously defined for compounds of formula (I), preferably R2 denotes a methyl radical and Ra and Rb denote a hydrogen atom; - R10, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as -CH3 or an R9 group as defined above; - m denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200; - An being as defined previously; - R3, R5, R3 being as defined previously; - R7 represents an R7 radical or a -SO3, Cat+ group, Cat+ being as defined previously, or a group of formula (XV);

[0178] it being understood that formulas (IV) to (XIV) comprise at least one Si atom and at least two R9 motifs of formula (XV), in their structure.

[0179] The compounds of formula (I) are synthesized from at least one precursor R1(H)n in one or more steps, said precursors R'(H)n comprising at least one silicon atom being commercially available or being prepared from polysaccharides not comprising silicon atoms R12(H)n, with R12, identical or different, representing a multivalent radical, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, consisting of at least 3 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms.

[0180] In other words, the polysaccharide precursors R'(H)n comprising at least one Si atom implemented in the present invention are commercially available or obtained by modifying polysaccharides not containing Si atoms of formula R12(H)n, R12 being as described above, by implementing at least one functionalizing agent comprising at least one Si atom chosen from the following functionalizing agents (Al) or (A2): Y1-(CH2)m-[Si(Rc)2.O-Si(Rc)2-(CH2)]q-SiRcu-(OSiRd3)3.u (Al) Y2-Si(R”')3 (A2) - Rc, Rd, m, u and q being as defined previously; - Yi represents a group chosen from -NH2, -N=C=O; - Y2 represents a halogen atom such as chlorine or -NH-Si(Me)3 or -N(SiMe3)3-CO-CH3 or -N=C(Me)-OSiMe3.

[0181] Such a preparation process is described, for example, in the publications "Controlled Silylation of Polysaccharides: Attractive Building Blocks for Biocompatible Foams and Cell-Laden Hydrogels", ACS Applied Polymer Materials, 2022, 4(6), pp. 4087-4097, in patent applications WO2021187306, JP08208989 or JP06145201 or in the thesis "Silylating and shaping of polysaccharides", Karl-Franzenz-University Graz, 2014, or in the publications “Silylation of hyaluronan to improve hydrophobicity and reactivity for improved processing and derivatization”, Polymer, 2005, Pages 3639-3648, “Preparation of Trimethylsilyl Derivatives of Polysaccharides”, Starch, 1973, 25, 12, 429-431, “Silylation of Cellulose and Starch - Selectivity, Structure Analysis, and Subsequent Reactions, Cellulose”, 2003, 10(3), 251-269 or in patent applications EP2135883, EP0401668 and JPS60206801.

[0182] According to one embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) and / or oligosaccharide(s) comprising at least one Si atom possessing acetoacetate functions of formula (I) are obtained by (poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of dicarbonyl reagent with a polysaccharide comprising at least one silicon atom R'(H)n having n equivalents of nucleophilic functions according to the following scheme:

[0183] [Chem. 14]

[0184] diagram in which: - R1, R2, Ra, Rb and n are as defined in formula (I) described above; - R3 represents a hydrogen atom, an (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, ethyl, isobutyl, t-butyl, or an electrofuge group such as CHal3, or Hal3C-SO2- such as triflate, with Hal, identical or different, representing a halogen atom; and - X' represents an oxygen atom, or sulfur, preferably an oxygen atom.

[0185] Such a preparation process is described in particular in patent application WO2020026143, or in the publications "Synthesis and properties of cellulose acetoacetates", Macromolecules (1995), 28(12), 4122-8, and "A facile method of functional derivatization based on starch acetoacetate", Carbohydrate Polymers, 2022, 289, 119468.

[0186] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) and / or oligosaccharide(s) of formula (I) comprising at least one silicon atom are obtained by enzymatic esterification, as described in US patent application 6528644B1, or in US patent application 20100003730, by (poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of 2-Oxetanone, 4-methylene reagent with an oligo / polysaccharide nucleophilic reagent R'(H)n comprising n equivalents of nucleophilic functions according to the following scheme:

[0187] [Chem. 15]

[0188] scheme in which R1 and n are such as defined in formula (I) described above.

[0189] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide(s) and / or oligosaccharide(s) possessing acetoacetate functions of formula (I) are obtained by (poly)condensation(s) of n equivalents of propylenedioxy carbonyl reagent with a polysaccharide nucleophilic reagent R'(H)n comprising n equivalents of nucleophilic functions according to the following scheme:

[0190] [Chem. 16]

[0191] diagram in which: - R1, R2, Ra and n are such as defined previously in formula (I); - Rb' and Rc', whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group.

[0192] Such a preparation process is described in particular in the publications "Efficient and catalyst free synthesis of cellulose acetoacetates", Cellulose, 2018, 25 (9), 4919-4928, "2,2,6-trimethyl-4H-l,3-dioxin-4-one: a convenient alternative to diketene", Journal of Organic Chemistry 50(14), 2431-5, (1985), "Acetoacetylation of O-(hydroxypropyl)cellulose by 2,2,6-trimethyl-4H-l,3-dioxin-4-one", Carbohydrate Research 156, 232-5, (1986), or in patent applications WO9740074 and WO9303063.

[0193] According to another embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (I) are prepared by reacting a polysaccharide with n equivalents of ester R2-C(O)-C(Ra)(Rb)-C(O)-O-tBu in a polar aprotic solvent such as DMSO, DMF, preferably DMSO, at a temperature between 25 °C and 190 °C, preferably between 50 °C and 130 °C, and preferably at atmospheric pressure. The preparation process is, for example, that described in the scientific article "A facile method of functional derivatization based on starch acetoacetate”, Carbohydrate Polymers, 289, 119468 (2022).

[0194] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) are synthesized from R'(H)n polysaccharides comprising at least one Si atom chosen from: - trimethylsilyl alginate ester; - amylose, 2,3,6-tris(trimethylsilyl) ether; - guar gum, trimethylsilyl carboxymethyl 2-hydroxypropyl ether; guar gum, 2-hydroxypropyltriethylsilyl ether; guar gum, 2-hydroxypropyltrimethylsilyl ether; guar gum, trimethylsilyl; - trimethylsilyl cellulose; trimethylsilyl ethyl cellulose; 2-hydroxyethyl trimethylsilyl cellulose; trimethylsilyl methyl cellulose; triethylsilyl cellulose; trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl ethyl cellulose; trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl hydroxycellulose; - trimethylsilyl [3-cyclodextrin; - trimethylsilyl pullulan; trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (the latter being marketed under the names TSPL-30-ID and TSPL-30-UT by Shin Etsu); - trimethylsilyl inulin; triethylsilyl inulin; - triethylsilyl dextran; trimethylsilyl dextran; ethyldimethylsilyl dextran; - silylated hyaluronic acid, in particular with -Si(R'”)3, its salts and derivatives chosen in particular from trimethylsilyl hyaluronic acid, R' ' ' being as defined previously; and more preferentially chosen from trimethylsilyl cellulose, silylated hyaluronic acid in particular by -Si(R”')3, its salts and derivatives chosen in particular from trimethylsilyl hyaluronic acid, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (marketed under the name TSPL-30-ID and TSPL-30-UT by Shin Etsu), and trimethylsilyl pullulan; and more preferentially chosen from trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan marketed under the name TSPL-30-ID and TSPL-30-UT by the company Shin-Etsu.

[0195] The polysaccharide(s) and / or oligosaccharide(s) of formula (I) comprising at least one Si atom and their optical, geometric isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvated as defined above, are preferably present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0196] Another object of the invention is compounds of formula (XVI) comprising at least one Si atom and comprising at least two motifs of formula (XV) such that defined previously, its optical and geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates:

[0197] [Chem. 17]

[0198] formula (XVI) in which: - m is as defined previously; - R11, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or an R5 group or an R3 group as defined in formula (I) or an R9 group as defined previously; it being understood that the compound of formula (XVI) comprises at least two R9 groups, and at least one R5 group preferably chosen from a -CO-NH-(CH2)m-[Si(Rc)2_O-Si(Rc)2-(CH2)]q-SiRcu-(OSiRd3)3u group, more preferably-CO-NH-(CH2)m-Si -(OSiR'”3)3 such as -CO-NH-ALK-Si(OSiMe3)3, with ALK a saturated linear divalent hydrocarbon chain C2-C6, preferably C2-C4 such as C3.

[0199] Another object of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound of formula (XVI) as defined above.

[0200] Compounds of formula (I) are particularly transportable in organic solvents, in particular those selected from: - alcohols, more preferably ethanol, - hydrocarbon oils preferably in C8-C22, more preferably in C10-C20, in particular volatile, more particularly chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from isododecane and octyldodecanol, and more preferably the hydrocarbon oil is isododecane; or a mixture of non-volatile and volatile oils, preferably including at least isododecane as a volatile oil, and a phenyl silicone oil, in particular a pentaphenyl silicone oil; - and their mixtures.

[0201] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition "Cl" as defined above is an anhydrous composition comprising a volatile oil, preferably isododecane.

[0202] Crosslinking Agent

[0203] According to a particular embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention as described above comprises the application on keratinous materials, i) of at least one or more compounds of formula (I) comprising at least one silicon atom and at least two acetoacetate functions, as well as their optical, geometric, acid or base salts, and / or solvates, and ii) of at least one crosslinking agent.

[0204] For the purposes of the invention, the term “crosslinking agent”, also referred to as “R”, designates a compound capable of establishing with at least one acetoacetate function of the compound(s) of formula (I) used in the treatment process according to the invention: - at least one covalent bond, - at least one donor-acceptor (dative) bond, and / or - at least one coordination bond, and thus crosslinking this or these compound(s).

[0205] Preferably, the term “crosslinking agent”, also referred to as “R”, designates a compound capable of establishing at least one covalent bond with an acetoacetate function of the compound(s) of formula (I) used in the treatment process according to the invention and thus crosslinking this or these compound(s).

[0206] For the purposes of the present invention, it is understood that the terms “crosslinking agent” and “crosslinking agent” are equivalent.

[0207] Compositions “C2”, “C3”, and “C4” as defined above may contain at least one crosslinking agent. Compositions of the invention “C1”, “C2”, and “C3” comprise an oily phase. Compositions of the invention “C4” and “C5” may comprise an oily phase, an aqueous phase, or may be in the form of a direct or reverse emulsion. Composition “C4” may be an aqueous composition.

[0208] According to one aspect, the treatment process of the invention employs a composition called "C3", in particular cosmetic for keratinous materials, in particular for the care and / or makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as their optical, geometric isomers, their acid or base salts, and / or solvates as defined above, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular as defined above, in particular at least one coloring agent, more particularly at least one pigment, and optionally iii) at least one oil, in particular volatile as defined above and below, preferably isododecane.

[0209] The crosslinking agent(s) are preferably present in a mass content ranging from 0.2% to 60% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and more particularly from 1% to 25% by weight, even more particularly from 2% to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

[0210] In particular, the crosslinking agent(s) and the compound(s) of formula (I) are preferably present in a mass content ranging from 1% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising them.

[0211] More specifically, the crosslinking agent(s) R suitable for the invention may be selected from compounds with amine, thiol, acrylate, and / or carbonyl functional groups, such as a ketone or aldehyde functional group. A crosslinking agent R may also refer to a metal alkoxide. In a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent is different from the metal salts.

[0212] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl, (poly)acrylate, metal alkoxide compounds, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, metal alkoxide compounds and mixtures thereof, and more preferably chosen from (poly)amine, metal alkoxide compounds and mixtures thereof.

[0213] By (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl and (poly)acrylate compounds, we mean compounds comprising respectively at least one primary or secondary amine, thiol, carbonyl (such as a ketone or aldehyde), or acrylate function.

[0214] Metal alkoxide compounds are defined below.

[0215] A) Polyamine compounds

[0216] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)amine compounds.

[0217] The (poly)amine compound may in particular be chosen from among polyamine compounds having several primary and / or secondary amine groups or from among amino alkoxysilanes, and more particularly from among amino alkoxysilane compounds, diamine compounds, triamine compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0218] The (poly)amine compound may be a compound comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular a non-polymeric compound, they may be acyclic, or cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, conjugated or non-conjugated, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from O, S, Si(R')2, N(R”) preferably O, Si(R')2, or their combinations such as -Si(R')2-O- or -O-Si(R')2-, with R', identical or different, representing a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R” representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom.

[0219] By "non-polymer compound" is meant a compound that is not directly obtained by a polymerization reaction of monomers.

[0220] Examples of (poly)amine compounds include N-methyl-1,3-diaminopropane, N-propyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl 1,3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl 1,3-diaminopropane, 2-(3-aminopropylamino)ethanol, 3-(2-aminoethyl)aminopropylamine, bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, methyl bis(3-aminopropyl)amine, N-(3-aminopropyl)-1,4-diaminobutane, N,N-dimethyldipropylene triamine, 1,2-bis(3-aminopropylamino)ethane, N,N'-bis(3-aminopropyl)-1,3-propanediamine, ethylenediamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, lysinol, cystamine, xylene diamine, tris(2-aminoethyl)amine, l,3-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, 1,4-bis(aminomethyl)cyclohexane, diaminopropanol, 4,7,10-Trioxa-l,13-tridecan ediamine, spermidine and C36-alkylenediamines (respectively Priamine™ 1071, 1073, 1074, 1075).

[0221] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are monoamine, namely they contain a single primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably primary (NH2).

[0222] The (poly)amine compound(s) may be selected from among the amino alkoxysilanes, in particular those of formula R'iSi(OR'2)z(R'3)x, in which:

[0223] - R' i is a linear or branched, saturated Ci-C6 hydrocarbon chain or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic substituted by a group chosen from the primary amine group NH2 or secondary amine group -N(H)R with R representing an alkyl in CrC4, an aryl, a benzyl substituted by an amino group or by an aminoalkyl group in Ci-C4; R'i may be interrupted in its chain by a heteroatom (O, S, NH) or a carbonyl group C(O), R'i being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,

[0224] - R'2 and R'3, whether identical or different, represent a linear (Ci-C6)alkyl group or branched,

[0225] - z denotes an integer from 1 to 3, and

[0226] - x denotes an integer from 0 to 2,

[0227] with z + x = 3.

[0228] In particular, R'i is an acyclic chain. Preferably, R'i is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted with an amine group -NH2 or -N(H)R, where R represents a C1-C6 alkyl, a C3-C6 cycloalkyl, or a C6 aromatic. More preferably, R'i is a linear saturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted with an amine group NH2. Even more preferably, R'i is a linear saturated C2-C4 hydrocarbon chain substituted with an amine group NH2.

[0229] In particular, R'2 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably R'2 represents a linear alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably R'2 represents the ethyl group.

[0230] In particular, R'3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably, R'3 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and more preferably R'3 represents the methyl or ethyl group. Preferably, z is equal to 3.

[0231] In particular, the (poly)amine compound(s) are selected from amino alkoxysilanes having only one primary and / or secondary amine group, preferably primary (NH2), such as 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxy-silane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, and N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)-phenethyltrimethoxysilane.

[0232] Preferably, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, and N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, and more preferably 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), in particular that marketed by Sigma Aldrich.

[0233] The (poly)amine compound may also be selected from amine polymers, in particular having a weight average molecular weight ranging from 500 g.mol1 to 1000000 g.mol1, preferably ranging from 500 g.mol1 to 500000 g.mol1, and preferably ranging from 500 g.mol1 to 100000 g.mol1.

[0234] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are monoamine and selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular of formula (IV):

[0235] H2N-ALK-Si(R'2)(R'3)-O-[ Si(R'2)(R'3)-O]n- Si(R'2)(R'3)-R'4(IV)

[0236] formula (IV) in which:

[0237] - ALK represents a (Ci-C4)alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene,

[0238] - R'2, and R'3, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, and

[0239] - R'4 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably at C4, such as n-butyl, ne represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably the value of n is such that the average molecular weight by weight of the polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 500 to 3000 g.mol1. As an example of polydimethylsiloxanes (IV), we can cite those sold under the names "MCR-A11" and "MCR-A12" by the company Gelest.

[0240] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are diaminized, namely they contain two primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH2).

[0241] More specifically, they are chosen from compounds of formulas (V) or (VI): • ALK[(O-ALK')m-NH2]2 (V)

[0242] or • H2N-ALK-Si(R')2-[O-Si(R')2]mO-Si(R)2-ALK'-NH2 (VI)

[0243] formulas (V) and (VI) in which:

[0244] - ALK and ALK', whether identical or different, represent a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, preferably linear, such as propylene,

[0245] - R', identical or different, represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl,

[0246] - m represents an integer greater than or equal to 0, preferably the value of m is such that the average molecular weight by weight of the compound (V) or (VI) ranges from 500 g.mol1 to 55000 g.mol*.

[0247] Examples of compounds of formula (VI) include those sold under the names “DMS-A11”, “DMS-A12”, “DMS-A15”, “DMS-A21”, “DMS-A31”, “DMS-A32” and “DMS-A35” by the company Gelest.

[0248] The (poly)amine compound(s) which are diaminized are particularly diaminized polyethers in particular of formula H2N-ALK-O-[ALK'-O]m-ALK”-NH2 with ALK, ALK' and ALK”, identical or different representing a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0, such as 4,7,10-trioxa-l,13-tridecanediamine or the compounds known under the reference Jeffamine of the Huntsman company, and more particularly polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a, co-diamine (with amine function at the end of the chain) such as those sold under the names Jeffamine D-230, D-400, D-2000, D-4000, ED-600, ED-9000, ED-2003.

[0249] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) are triamine, namely they contain three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH2). More particularly, they are selected from triamine polyethers, notably those of formula ALK'”[(O-ALK')m-NH2]3, with ALK' as defined above and ALK”' representing a trivalent (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, and m representing an integer greater than or equal to 0.

[0250] As (poly)amine compounds which are triamined, triamine polyethers are particularly cited, and in particular polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a, co-diamine (with amine function at the end of the chain) such as those sold under the names Jeffamine T-403.

[0251] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compound(s) comprise more than three primary and / or secondary amine groups, preferably primary (NH2).

[0252] In this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are chosen from poly(meth)acrylates or poly(meth)acrylamides bearing primary or secondary amine functions, such as poly(3-aminopropyl)methacrylamide and poly(2-aminoethyl)methacrylate.

[0253] Preferably, the polyamine compounds are chosen from chitosans (in particular poly(D-glucosamine)), and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or on side chains.

[0254] According to this variant, the (poly)amine compound(s) are in particular selected from poly(alkylene(C2-C5)imines), and preferably polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, in particular poly(ethyleneimines), in particular that sold under reference 408700 by Aldrich Chemical or under the trade name Lupasol by BASF, in particular with a molecular weight between 1,200 and 25,000; poly(allylamine), in particular that sold under reference 479136 by Aldrich Chemical; polyvinylamines and their copolymers, in particular with vinylamides, in particular vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers such as those marketed under the name Lupamin® 9030 by BASF; polyamino acids having NH2 groups such as polylysine, in particular that sold by JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); amino dextran, in particular that sold by the company CarboMer Inc;Polyvinyl amino alcohol, in particular that sold by CarboMer Inc., acrylamido(Ci-C6)alkylamine-based copolymers, notably acrylamidopropylamine-based; and poly(D-Glucosamine), for example, sold under the reference Kionutrime CSG® by Kytozyme.

[0255] According to a particular embodiment, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain and / or on side chains are selected from the compounds of the following formula (VII):

[0256] Ra-Si(Rb)(Rc)-O-[Si(Rb)(Rc)-O]m-[Si(ALK1-NH2)(Ra)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rc)-Ra(VII)

[0257] formula (VII) in which:

[0258] - Ra, identical or different, represents a hydroxy or (Ci-C4)alkyl group,

[0259] - Rb and Rc, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl,

[0260] - ALK1 represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, linear or branched, possibly interrupted by a group N(H),

[0261] - m and n are integers greater than or equal to 1, preferably m and n are such that the The average molecular mass by weight of the compound of formula (VII) ranges from 1000 g.mol1 to 500000 g.mol1.

[0262] According to a preferred variant, formula (VII) is such that Ra, Rb, and Rc represent a methyl group, ALK1 represents a propylene group, n and m are such that the values ​​of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of polydimethylsiloxane ranges from 1000 g.mol1 to 55000 g.mol1.

[0263] Examples of polydimethylsiloxanes of formula (VI) include those sold under the names "AMS-132", "AMS-152", "AMS-162", "AMS-163", "AMS-191" and "AMS-1203" by the company Gelest.

[0264] According to another variant, formula (VII) is such that Ra represents a hydroxy or (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, ALK1 represents a (C5-C6)alkylene group substituted by an NH group, preferably ALK1 represents -(CH2)3-N(H)-(CH2)2-, and m and n are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound of formula (VI) ranges from 5000 g.mol1 to 500000 g.mol*.

[0265] As an amino polymer, polytetrahydrofurans (or polytetramethylene glycol) α, co-diamine, and polybutadienes α, co-diamine may also be cited.

[0266] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)amine compounds are selected from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one amino group and dendrimers bearing at least one amino group, such as PAMAM polyamidoamine dendrimers with an ethylenediamine core and a terminal amine function.

[0267] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a crosslinking agent R selected from (poly)amine compounds, in particular selected from chitosans, aminoalkoxysilanes, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, amodimethicones, polyglucosamines, spermidine, and mixtures thereof.

[0268] More preferably, the composition comprises a crosslinking agent R selected from chitosans, aminoalkoxysilanes and polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains such as amodimethicones, and even more preferably selected from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), triamine polyethers, such as Polyetheramine (or jeffamine), spermidine, and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising terminal amino groups at the end of the chain, such as Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone.

[0269] B) (Poly)thiol compounds

[0270] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is chosen from (poly)thiol compounds also called “(poly)mercapto”.

[0271] The (poly)thiol compound may in particular be organic or inorganic, preferably organic.

[0272] In a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is siliconed, that is to say, it comprises one or more thiol groups, it also comprises at least one siloxane chain.

[0273] In a particular embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound is inorganic. Polythiol silicones are an example.

[0274] The (poly)thiol compound may in particular be chosen from among non-polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.

[0275] By “non-polymer compounds”, in the context of the present invention, we mean compounds that are not directly obtained by a polymerization reaction of monomers.

[0276] According to one embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) is organic, non-polymeric, and of formula (VIII) below, as well as its solvates, such as its hydrates: L(SH)q (VIII) formula (VIII) in which: - q, represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably q is inclusively between 2 and 10, preferably between 2 and 5; - L denotes a multivalent (at least divalent) group, in particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated; L being optionally interrupted and / or terminated by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their combinations such as -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl; and / or L possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from: -N(Ra)Rb, and -(X')aC(X)-(X”)b-Ra; with X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an N(Rb) group; a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1;Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl or aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as benzyl; preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom; and Rc and Rd, whether identical or different, represent a (CrC6)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl, or (Ci-C6)alkoxy group.

[0277] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from among polythiol compounds, in particular polythiol compounds comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0278] According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are non-polymeric, in particular of formula (VIII) defined above, in which q is an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably q is an integer inclusively between 2 and 10, preferably between 2 and 5.

[0279] The (poly)thiol compounds suitable for the invention are preferably dithiol compounds.

[0280] Preferably, L denotes a multivalent C8-Ci8 radical, in particular a linear one. Preferably, the fat-soluble polythiol is a C8-Ci8 dithiol, in particular a linear one. Preferably, the C8-Ci8 chain is a hydrocarbon chain, that is to say, composed of carbon and hydrogen. In particular, the fat-soluble polythiol is a linear C8-Ci6 diol, in particular a C10-C14 one. Examples of (poly)thiol compounds of formula (VII) include, in particular, 1,8-octanedithiol, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecanedithiol, 1,14-tetradecanedithiol, 1,16-hexadecanedithiol, and 1,18-octadecanedithiol. Preferably, 1,10-decanedithiol, 1,12-dodecanedithiol and / or 1,14-tetradecanedithiol are used, preferably 1,12-dodecanedithiol.

[0281] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) is selected from thiol alkoxysiloxanes, such as those of formula (VIII') below: R'1-Si(OR'2)z(R'3)x (VIII') formula (VIII') in which: - R'i is a C1-C12 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, substituted by one or more groups selected from the following: thiol, aryloxy, arylthio, arylamino, the aryl group being substituted by one or more thiol, or thiol(Ci-C6)alkyl groups, preferably thiol(Ci-C6)alkyl; and R'1 is optionally interrupted in its hydrocarbon chain by one or more heteroatoms such as O, S, N, a carbonyl group C(O), or their combination such as -C(O)-O- ester, or -C(O)-N(H)- amide, R\ being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom, - R'2 and R'3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atom(s), preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atom(s), such as methyl, - z denotes an integer from 1 to 3, and - x denotes an integer from 0 to 2, with z + x = 3.

[0282] Preferably, R'2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethyl.

[0283] Preferably, R'3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group, preferably linear, comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl.

[0284] Preferably, R' i is an acyclic chain, in particular R' i is a Ci-C6 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, substituted by one or more thiol groups, preferably substituted by a thiol group.

[0285] Preferably, R\ is a linear saturated Ci-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted with a thiol group, and R'2 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0286] Preferably, R'3 represents an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0287] Preferably, z is equal to 3.

[0288] According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxanes are selected from those of the following formula (IX): (R1O)(R2)(R3)Si-[CH(R4)]t-[N(R'4)-L1]p-SH (IX) formula (IX) in which: - p is equal to 0 or 1; -1 is an integer between 1 and 4, preferably 2; - R1 represents a (Ci-C6)alkyl radical; - R2 and R3, identical or different, preferably identical, are chosen from a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular in Ci-C4, such as methyl, and a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, in particular (Ci-C4)alkoxy, such as methoxy; - R4 and R'4, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or an (Ci-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl; - L1 represents a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated, in Ci-C20.

[0289] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the thiolated alkoxysiloxane compounds are selected from those of the following formula (IX'): (R' 1O)(R'2)(R'3)Si-CH(R4)-CH(R5)-(L2)q-SH (IX') formula (IX') in which: - q is equal to 0 or 1; - X represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, preferably sulfur; - R'1 designates a (Ci-C6)alkyl radical; - R'2 and R'3, identical or different, preferably identical, are chosen from a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, in particular CrC4, and a (Ci-C6)alkyl radical; - R5 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in C1-C4 possibly substituted by an amino, thiol or hydroxy group; - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, in particular methyl; - L2 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated in C1-C20, possibly interrupted by a heteroatom such as -N(H)-, and / or possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy, thiol or amino groups.

[0290] Preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane(s) are selected from 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-l-butanol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-l-propanol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-l-propanol, 11-(trimethoxysilyl)-l-undecanethiol, 4-(trimethoxysilyl)-2-butanethiol, 2-(triethoxysilyl)-ethanethiol, 3-(triethoxysilyl)-l-propanethiol, 2-(trimethoxysilyl)-ethanethiol, 3-(trimethoxysilyl)-l-propanethiol and 3-(dimethoxymethylsilyl)-1-propanethiol.

[0291] More preferably, the thiolated alkoxysilane(s) are chosen from 2-(triethoxysilyl)-ethanethiol (18236-15-2) and 3-(triethoxysilyl)-l-propanethiol (14814-09-6).

[0292] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compound(s) are chosen from among the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds.

[0293] Polymeric (poly)thiol compounds can be homopolymers, copolymers, stars, combs, brushes, and dendritics with thiol motifs. The polymers can be of natural origin, such as polysaccharides and polypeptides, or synthetic, such as acrylics, polyesters, and polyglycols. The thiol motifs can be present as terminal or pendant groups.

[0294] Examples include the polymers described in the following documents: Polymers containing groups of biological activity, CG Overberger et al, Polytechnic Institute of Brooklyn, http: / / pac.iupac.org / publications / pac / pdf / 1962 / pdf / 0402x0521.pdf; EP 1 247 515 A2; US 3,676,440; and EP 1 572 778.

[0295] The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds of the invention are preferably organic and / or silicone-based, more preferably of formula (X): POLY(SH)q (X) formula (X) in which: - q is greater than or equal to 2, preferably greater than or equal to 3; - POLY denotes a polymeric radical, preferably carbon- or silicon-based; POLY being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their combinations such as -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group such as methyl; and / or POLY being optionally substituted by one or more halogen atoms, or a group chosen from Ra(Rb)N- and -(X')aC(X)-(X”)b-Ra; X, X' and X”, identical or different, represent an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an N(Rb) group; a, and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a + b is 1; Ra and Rb, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-CiO)alkyl group, or aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom; and Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a (CrC10)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C10)alkoxy group.

[0296] The methods for preparing the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds implemented according to the invention are known to those skilled in the art; several methods are described below without limitation. The polymeric (poly)thiol compounds implemented according to the invention can be obtained by polymerization, polycondensation of monomer units with thiol or protected thiol functions, optionally by co-polymerization or co-polycondensation of monomer units without thiol functions or protected thiol functions.

[0297] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polymeric (poly)thiol compounds used according to the invention are polymers soluble in cosmetic media, particularly in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media. They are more preferably obtained from amine polymers and their ammonium salts or from polyhydroxylated polymers.

[0298] According to another embodiment of the invention, the thiolated polymers implemented according to the invention are polymers soluble in lipophilic media.

[0299] According to one embodiment of the invention, the polythiol compound is a polymeric compound of formula (X) in which q denotes an integer greater than or equal to 2, and POLY denotes a carbon and / or silicon polymeric radical, preferably silicon, POLY being able to further contain one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and / or one or more functions selected from the (thio)esters, (thio)ketones, (thio)amides, (thio)ureas, (thio)carbamates, and / or be substituted by one or more (Ci-Cio)alkyl, linear or branched, (Ci-Cio)alkoxy, linear or branched groups, it being understood that when POLY is substituted, the thiol functions may be borne by Ic / Ics substituent(s).

[0300] The average molecular weight in molar weight of polythiol polymer compounds, such as those of formula (X), is generally between 500 and 400000 g.mol', preferably between 500 and 150000 g.mol1.

[0301] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polythiol compounds are chosen from polyorganosiloxanes having thiol groups on terminal chains, such as those of formula (XI): HS-L4-Si(Ra)(Rb)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]n-Si(Ra)(Rb)-L5-SH(XI) formula (XI) in which: - Ra and Rb, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, (Ci-C4)alkoxy, such as methoxy, aryl, such as phenyl, aryloxy, such as phenoxy, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl, such as benzyl, or aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy, such as benzoxy, preferably (CrC4)alkyl, such as methyl, - n represents an integer greater than or equal to 1, and more particularly the value of n is such that the average molecular weight by weight of silicone is between 500 and 55000 g.mol1; particularly n is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 5 and 50, and preferably between 10 and 30, and - L4 and L5, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, in particular represent a covalent bond, a (Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy, oxy-(Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylenoxy or oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene group, preferably a (Cr C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy, oxy-(Ci-C6)alkylene, or (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene.

[0302] Preferably, the (poly)thiol compounds are polythiol polyorganosiloxanes, more preferably polythiol polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular selected from those of formula (XII): HS-L4-Si(CH3)2-O-[Si(CH3)2-O]n-Si(CH3)2-L5-SH (XII) formula (XII) in which: - L4 and L5 are as defined previously in formula (XI), in particular L4 and L5 represent a (Ci-C6)alkylene, (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy, oxy-(Ci-C6)alkylene, or (Ci-C6)alkylene-oxy(Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably a divalent group selected from -R2-, -O-R2-, -R2-O-, -R2-O-R2-, preferably -R2-O-R2-, with R2 representing a linear or branched (C2-C6)alkylene group, preferably linear, such as ethylene or propylene, preferably n-propylene; and - n is such as defined in formula (XI).

[0303] As examples of polythiol compounds of formula (XII), we can cite mercaptosiloxane or thiol siloxanes, in which the thiol functions are located at the ends of the chain, marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the reference X-22-167B and mercaptosiloxane, in which the mercapto functions are pendant, marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the reference KF-2001, or polydimethylsiloxane in which the thiol functions are located at the ends of the chain by thio-n-propyl, 80-120 groups marketed by Gelest under the name DMS - SM 21.

[0304] Preferably, the polythiol compounds are polyorganosiloxanes having thiol groups on side chains such as those of formula (XIII): Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALK1-SH)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XIII) formula (XIII) in which: - Ra, and Rb, are such as defined in formula (XI) and Rd is such as defined for Ra and Rb, preferably Ra, Rb, and Rd, identical, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl; - Rd can also represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group substituted by a (C1-C4)alkylamino or amino, or thiol group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, such as methyl; - ALKi represents a divalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O, or S, or their combinations such as -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, preferably ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably (Ci-C4)alkylene, such as propylene; - n and m, whether identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and more particularly the values ​​of m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol1.

[0305] Examples of polythiol compounds of formula (XIII) include those sold by Genesee Polymers under the names GP-367, GP-71-SS, GP-800 and GP-710s, preferably GP-367, marketed by Genesee Polymers.

[0306] Polythiol compounds include polydimethylsiloxanes comprising at least two thiol groups, such as, for example, the products SMS-022, SMS-042 and SMS-992 sold by the company Gelest in https: / / www.gpcsilicones.com / products / silicone-fluids / mercapto-functional, https: / / www.shinetsusilicone-global.com / products / type / oil / detail / search / deg07.shtml, and 1053_Reactive Silicones_Silanes / Silicones -Gelest.

[0307] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the (poly)thiol compounds are chosen from hyperbranched polymers comprising at least one thiol group and dendrimers bearing at least one thiol group such as thiol PAMAMs.

[0308] Preferably, the (poly)thiol compounds implemented according to the invention are chosen from polydiallylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising at least two thiol groups such as those of formula (XIII).

[0309] C) (Poly)acrylate compounds

[0310] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent is a (poly)acrylate compound.

[0311] By "(poly)acrylate" is meant a compound comprising at least one acrylate ester group H2C=C(Re)-C(O)-Y- with Re representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl, preferably Re representing a hydrogen atom, and Y representing an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom.

[0312] More particularly, the (poly)acrylate(s) of the invention have the formula (XIV):

[0313] L[-YC(O)-C(Re)=CH2]q (XIV)

[0314] formula (XIV) in which q and L are such as defined in formula (VIII), Y and Re being such as defined previously, preferably Y = O and Re = H.

[0315] According to a preferred embodiment, the compounds of formula (XIV) are such that L represents a di or trivalent hydrocarbon chain, preferably trivalent, comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, Y represents O, and Re represents a hydrogen atom.

[0316] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compounds are selected from polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one acrylate group on the side chain such as those of formula (XV):

[0317] Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALKrY-C(O)-C(Re)=CH2)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XV)

[0318] formula (XV) in which:

[0319] - Ra, Rb, and Rd are such as defined in formula (XIII), preferably Ra, Rb, and Rd represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, such as methyl,

[0320] - ALKi is such as defined for formula (XIII), preferably ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably (Ci-C4)alkylene, such as propylene,

[0321] - n and m, identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and more particularly the values ​​of m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol1,

[0322] - Y is as defined above, preferably is an oxygen atom.

[0323] More specifically, the (poly)acrylate compound can be selected from the 1,3-butanedioldiacrylate, 1,4-butanedioldiacrylate, di(trimethylolpropane) tetraacrylate, glycerol 1,3-diglycerolate diacrylate, glycerol propoxylate (1PO / OH) triacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol ethoxylate diacrylate, hydroxypivalyl hydroxypivalate, neopentyl glycol diacrylate, neopentyl glycol propoxylate (1PO / OH) diacrylate, pentaerythritol tetraacrylate, pentaerythritol triacrylate, poly(propylene glycol) diacrylate, tricyclo[5.2.1.02,6]canedimethanol diacrylate, trimethylolpropane ethoxylate (1EO / OH) methyl ether diacrylate, trimethylolpropane propoxylate triacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, tri(propylene glycol) diacrylate, and tris[2-(acryloyloxy)ethyl] isocyanurate.

[0324] The (poly)acrylate compound can also be selected from N,N'-methylene bis-acrylamide.

[0325] According to this embodiment, the (poly)acrylate compound is associated in its implementation with an amine catalyst as described for example in the articles Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst(s) are chosen from piperidine, DMAP (Dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (l,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (l,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferably chosen from DBU (l,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (l,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (l,8-Diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).

[0326] More particularly, (poly)acrylate compounds are selected from those of formula (XIV), in particular trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV), in particular copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropyl)methylsiloxane.

[0327] D) Metal alkoxides

[0328] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a compound selected from the following metal alkoxides of formulas (XIVa), (XIVb), (XIVC) and (XIVd), and their mixtures: M-(0R1)n (XIVa) RM-(0R1)n.1 (XIVb) (R10)n.1-MR”-M'-(0R1')n,1 (XIVC) RM(R')-(0R1)n 2 (XXIVd)

[0329] formulas (XIVa), (XIVb), (XIVC) and (XIVd) in which:

[0330] - M and M', identical or different, represent an atom chosen from among the metals alkaline earth metals, transition metals, lanthanide family metals, post-transition metals such as aluminium or tin and metalloids, such as boron, preferably transition metals, such as Ti, and post-transition metals, such as aluminium;

[0331] - n and n' represent respectively the valences of the atoms represented by M and M';

[0332] - Ri and Ri', identical or different, represent a linear hydrocarbon group or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, said hydrocarbon group optionally being interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S and P, in particular O or N, and / or said group hydrocarbon possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy or carbonyl groups; - R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group, linear, branched, acyclic or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, possibly interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or P, in particular O or N and / or said hydrocarbon group possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy or carbonyl groups;

[0333] - R” represents -O-, -N(R2)-, -S- or a linear, divalent hydrocarbon group, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by 1 to 20 heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and P, especially O or N, with R2 representing a hydrocarbon group, linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0334] Preferably, M and M', identical or different, represent an atom chosen from among the transition metals, such as titanium, or zirconium or the alkaline earth metals such as magnesium, more preferably chosen from among the transition metals, such as titanium or zirconium, even more preferably titanium.

[0335] Preferably, the organometallic compound(s) are chosen from alkoxides of formula (XIVa) as defined above. According to this preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are more particularly chosen from alkoxides of formula (XIVa), in which M represents an atom chosen from among the transition metals, the lanthanide metals, the post-transition metals, such as aluminum, tin, the metalloids, such as boron, or the alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium or calcium; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M; Ri represents a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0336] According to another more preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are selected from alkoxides of formula (XIVa), in which M represents an atom selected from transition metals, such as zirconium or titanium, lanthanide metals, post-transition metals, such as aluminum, tin, metalloids, such as boron, and alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, preferably M represents a titanium atom; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M, in particular 1, 2, 3 or 4, in particular 4; Ri represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or t-butyl group.

[0337] According to a further preferred embodiment, the organometallic compound(s) are selected from zirconium ethoxide (Zr(OC2H5)4), zirconium propoxide (Zr(OCH2CH2CH3)4), zirconium isopropoxide (Zr(OCH(CH3)2)4), zirconium butoxide Zr(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4, zirconium tert-butoxide (Zr(OC(CH3)3)4), titanium ethoxide (Ti(OC2H5)4), titanium propoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH3)4), titanium isopropoxide (Ti(OCH(CH3)2)4), titanium butoxide (Ti(OCH2CH2CH2CH3)4), titanium tert-butoxide (Ti(OC(CH3)3)4), 2-ethylhexyloxide titanium (Ti(OCH2CH(C2H5)(CH2)3CH3)4), and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from zirconium propoxide, titanium propoxide, titanium butoxide and mixtures thereof.

[0338] More preferably, the crosslinking agent R is a compound of formula (XXIVa), preferably in which M represents an atom selected from among the transition metals, in particular titanium, such as titanium butoxide.

[0339] E) (Poly)carbonyl compounds

[0340] According to a particular embodiment, the crosslinking agent R is a (poly)carbonyl compound.

[0341] In particular, the (poly)carbonyl compound is selected from terephthalaldehyde, 5,5-dimethyl-1,3-cyclohexanedione, phenylglyoxal, isophthalaldehyde, 4-acetylbenzaldehyde, 4,4-diformyltriphenylamine, 2-acetylbenzaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-(2-furoyl)quinoline-2-carboxaldehyde, 3-acetylbenzaldehyde, 9-(2-ethylhexyl)carbazole-3,6-dicarboxaldehyde, phthaldialdehyde, 1,3-cyclohexanedione, 4,4'-biphenyldicarboxaldehyde, benzene-1,3,5-tricarboxaldehyde, and nonionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides such as oxidized inulins, particularly those of formula (II) as defined below. In particular, (poly)carbonyl compounds comprise a C5-C7 carbocycle, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic, preferably aromatic, such as phenyl, or non-aromatic and saturated such as cyclohexyl, more preferably unsaturated and aromatic, such as terephthaledhyde.

[0342] According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound(s) are chosen from non-ionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides comprising one or more aldehyde groups, and optionally one or more anionic groups.

[0343] It is understood that oxidized polysaccharides differ from compounds of formula (I) in that they do not comprise a group:

[0344] [Chem. 18] OO

[0345] with R2, Ra, Rb, and X as defined in formula (I).

[0346] These anionic groups are preferably carboxy or carboxylate groups.

[0347] The non-ionic or anionic oxidized polysaccharides according to the invention can be represented by the following formula (XX):

[0348] P-(CHO)m (COOQ)n (XX)

[0349] formula (XX) in which:

[0350] - P represents a polysaccharide chain, preferably made up of monosaccharides comprising 5 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more than 6 carbon atoms, and more particularly 6 carbon atoms;

[0351] - Q is chosen from a hydrogen atom, ions from an alkali metal or alkaline earths, such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, organic amines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and 3-aminopropanediol-1,2 and basic amino acids, such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, omithine, citrulline;

[0352] - m + n is greater than or equal to 1;

[0353] - m is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more aldehyde groups (DS(CHO)), is in the range from 0.001 to 2, preferably from 0.005 to 1.5;

[0354] - n is such that the degree of substitution of the polysaccharide by one or more carboxylic groups (DS(COOX)), is in the range from 0 to 2, preferably from 0.001 to 1.5.

[0355] By degree of substitution DS(CHO) or DS(COOX) of the polysaccharides according to the invention, we mean the ratio between the number of carbons oxidized to an aldehyde or carboxylic group for all repeating units and the number of elementary monosaccharides (even those opened by pre-oxidation) constituting the polysaccharide. The CHO and COOX groups can be obtained during the oxidation of certain carbon atoms, for example on carbon atoms 2, 3, or 6, of a 6-carbon saccharide unit.

[0356] Preferably, the oxidation can take place in carbon 2 and 3, more particularly from 0.01% to 75% by number, and preferably from 0.1% to 50% by number of the rings that may have been opened.

[0357] The polysaccharide chain, represented by P, is preferably selected from celluloses, starches, maltodextrins, guar gums, xanthan gums, pullulan gums, agar-agar gums, carrageenan gums, gellan gums, gum arabic, polyxylans and tragacanth gums and their derivatives.

[0358] By derivative, we mean the compounds obtained by chemical modification of the aforementioned compounds. These may be esters, amides, or ethers of said compounds.

[0359] Oxidation can be carried out according to a process known in the art, for example according to the process described in FR 2 842 200, in document FR 2 854 161 or in the article “Hydrophobic films from maize bran hemicelluloses” by E. Fredon et al, Carbohydrate Polymers 49, pages 1 to 12 (2002).

[0360] Another oxidation process is described in the article “Water soluble oxidized starches by peroxide reaction extrusion” Industril Crops and Products 7, RE Wing, JL Willet 45-52 (1997).

[0361] According to this embodiment, the (poly)carbonyl compound is associated in its implementation with an amine catalyst, as described in the articles Progress in coating 129, 21-25 (2019) and Progress in coating 135, 510-516 (2019). Preferably, the amine catalyst(s) are chosen from piperidine, DMAP (Dimethylaminopyridine), DBU (l,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (l,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), more preferably chosen from DBU (l,8-diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene), DABCO (l,4-diazabicyclo[2.2.2]octane), DBN (l,5-Diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-ene), and in particular the catalyst is DBU (l,8-Diazabicyclo[5.4.0]undec-7-ene).

[0362] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent is chosen from A) (poly)amines, B) (poly)thiols, D) metal alkoxides, and preferably from A) (poly)amines and D) metal alkoxides.

[0363] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), polyamine compounds such as spermidine and triamine polyethers, such as Polyetheramine (or jeffamine), and polydimethylsiloxanes comprising amino terminal groups at the end of the chain, such as Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising amino terminal groups at the end of the chain, such as Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone.

[0364] In particular, said (poly)amine compounds A) are selected from a) chitosans, such as poly(D-Glucosamine), b) diamine polyethers, particularly polyethylene glycol α,co-diamine (with an amine function at the end of the chain), c) triamine polyethers, such as Polyetheramine (or jeffamine), d) aminoalkoxysilanes, such as APTES, e) spermidine and f) polydialkylsiloxanes including primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, particularly polydimethylsiloxanes including primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicones including amine groups on side chains such as Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone, notably that marketed by Momentive Performance Materials.

[0365] According to a preferred embodiment, said (poly)amine compounds A) are selected from a) chitosans, such as poly(D-Glucosamine), c) triamine polyethers, such as Polyetheramine (or jeffamine), e) spermidine and f) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, particularly polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, such as bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains such as Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone, in particular that marketed by Momentive Performance Materials.

[0366] In particular, said (poly)thiol compounds B) are selected from a) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, and b) alkoxysilanes with thiol functions, particularly are selected from a) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain (such as mercaptopropyl), especially those of formula (XIII).

[0367] In particular, said (poly)acrylate C) compounds are selected from those of formula (XIV) in particular trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and those of formula (XV) in particular copolymers of dimethylsiloxane and acryloxypropyl)methylsiloxane, preferably trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

[0368] According to a preferred embodiment, the crosslinking agent(s) is / are chosen from:

[0369] A) (poly)amine compounds selected from:

[0370] ia) chitosans such as poly(D-Glucosamine),

[0371] ib) diamine polyethers, in particular polyethylene glycol a, co-diamine, with an amine function at the end of the chain,

[0372] ic) triamine polyethers, in particular polyetheramine (or jeffamine),

[0373] id) aminoalkoxysilanes, in particular APTES,

[0374] ie) spermidine, and

[0375] if) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, more particularly bis(3-aminopropyl)-terminated poly(dimethoxysiloxane) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, more particularly Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone;

[0376] B) (poly)thiol compounds selected from:

[0377] iia) thiol-functionalized polydialkylsiloxanes, and

[0378] iib) alkoxysilanes with thiol functions,

[0379] and in particular selected from compounds iia) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain, in particular mercaptopropyl, and more particularly selected from compounds of formula (XIII):

[0380] Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALK1-SH)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-Ra (XIII)

[0381] formula (XIII) in which:

[0382] - Ra and Rb, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a group (Ci-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, and preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl,

[0383] - Rd represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4 )alkoxy, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group substituted by a (Ci-C4)alkylamino, amino, or thiol group, and preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl,

[0384] and preferably Ra, Rb, and Rd, are identical and represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, more preferably methyl,

[0385] - ALKi represents a divalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O or S, or their combinations, in particular -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, preferably ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably (Ci-C4)alkylene, even more preferably propylene,

[0386] - n and m, whether identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and in In particular, the values ​​of m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol

[0387] C) (poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV):

[0388] L[-YC(O)-C(Re)=CH2]q (XIV)

[0389] formula (XIV) in which:

[0390] - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is between inclusively between 2 and 10, and preferably between 2 and 5,

[0391] - L denotes a multivalent group that is at least divalent, in particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated; L being optionally interrupted and / or terminated by one or more heteroatoms or groups selected from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their combinations, in particular -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(Rd)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, in particular methyl;and / or L being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from: -N(Ra)Rb, and -(X')aC(X)-(X”)b-Ra, with X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an N(Rb) group, a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a and b being 1, Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom, and Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C6)alkoxy group;

[0392] - Re represents a hydrogen atom or an (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, preferably Re, represents a hydrogen atom, and

[0393] - Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom,

[0394] preferably Y is an oxygen atom and Re is a hydrogen atom, preferably L represents a di- or trivalent hydrocarbon chain, preferably trivalent, comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and

[0395] more preferably the compounds of formula (XIV) are trimethylolpropane triacrylate; and

[0396] D) metal alkoxides of formula (XIVa): M-(0R1)n (XIVa)

[0397] formula (XIVa) wherein M represents an atom selected from among the transition metals, such as zirconium or titanium, the lanthanide family metals, the post-transition metals, such as aluminium, tin, the metalloids, such as boron, and the alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, preferably M represents a titanium atom; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M, in particular 1, 2, 3 or 4, in particular 4; Ri represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or t-butyl group.

[0398] COSMETIC ACTIVES iv)

[0399] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention further comprises the application of iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, on said keratinous materials.

[0400] More particularly, in the treatment process according to the invention, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients.

[0401] In particular, the cosmetic active(s) iv) is / are chosen from: a) colouring materials (or colouring agents), in particular chosen from pigments, direct colourings and mixtures thereof, b) conditioning agents for keratinous materials, preferably of the skin, c) UV filters, and d) mixtures thereof.

[0402] According to a particular embodiment, at least one cosmetic active ingredient is chosen from coloring materials, preferably chosen from pigments, direct colorants and their mixtures, more preferably pigments.

[0403] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible cosmetic active ingredients, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0404] COLORING MATERIALS

[0405] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more coloring materials.

[0406] More particularly, in the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented, comprises at least one colouring material, particulate or not, water-soluble or not, and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition considered.

[0407] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the colonic intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0408] Preferably, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" comprises at least one colouring material selected from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures, more preferably pigments.

[0409] More preferably, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black and iron oxide-coated micas, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, in particular BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red, more particularly D&C RED 7, the alkali metal salt of lithol red, in particularly the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferentially among red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, especially red ones, more particularly D&C RED 7.

[0410] PIGMENTS

[0411] For the purposes of this invention, "pigment" means any compound capable of imparting color to keratinous materials. These compounds have a solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) of less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01% by weight.

[0412] Suitable pigments for the invention may include, in particular, organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, especially those described in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology and Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry.

[0413] These pigments can be synthetic or natural.

[0414] These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste.

[0415] They may be coated or uncoated.

[0416] These pigments can, for example, be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter, and mixtures thereof.

[0417] A pigment suitable for the invention can be chosen from among mineral pigments.

[0418] By “mineral pigment” is meant any pigment that meets the definition of Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, we can cite manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium, or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron, or chromium.

[0419] It may also be a pigment having a structure that is, for example, of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. Such a pigment is marketed, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio close to 30. It may also be a pigment having a structure that is, for example, of the silica microspheres containing iron oxide type. An example of a pigment with this structure is that marketed by Miyoshi under the reference PC Bail PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being composed of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[0420] Advantageously, the pigments may be iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.

[0421] A pigment suitable for the invention can be chosen from among organic pigments.

[0422] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. Examples include, among others the organic pigments useful in the present invention, the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone.In particular, white or colored organic pigments may be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under reference CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771. .

[0423] By way of example, we can also cite organic pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name: COSMENYL YELLOW IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (CI 11710); COSMENYL YELLOW G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (CI 11680); COSMENYL ORANGE GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (CI 71105); COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (CI 12085); COSMENYL CARMINE FB: Pigment RED 5 (CI 12490); COSMENYL VIOLET RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (CI 51319); COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (CI 74160); COSMENYL GREEN GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (CI 74260); COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (CI 77266).

[0424] The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment covering at least partially the core.

[0425] The organic pigment can also be a lacquer.

[0426] By "lacquer" is meant dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0427] Examples of inorganic substrates onto which dyes are adsorbed include alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Carminic acid is one example of dyes adsorbed onto organic substrates. Other examples include... known by the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090), FDC Red 4, D&C Red 6, D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D & C Red 30, D & C Orange 4, D & C Yellow 8, D & C Green 5, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, Sudan Red, carotenes (beta-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin, beetroot juice and caramel.

[0428] As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0429] The pigment can also be a special effects pigment.

[0430] By "special effect pigments" is meant pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, vibrancy and clarity) that is non-uniform and changes depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They are thus distinguished from colored pigments which provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or conventional transparent tint.

[0431] There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as mother-of-pearl, interference pigments or glitter.

[0432] The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 µm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 µm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 µm.

[0433] The pigments can be dispersed within the composition by means of a dispersing agent.

[0434] This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer, or a mixture of several of these, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they may bind physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants further have at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, and of C8 to C2o fatty acids and polyols such as glycerol and diglycerin, are used, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mol, such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21000 by the company Avecia, and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls. PGPH from Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid, such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema, and mixtures thereof, can be used as dispersants. Other dispersants usable in the compositions of the invention include quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as Solsperse 17000 sold by Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C. The pigments used in the composition may be surface-treated with an organic agent. In one particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are amino-silicone, different from the alkoxysilanes described above, and are cationic. Preferably, the pigment(s) is / are selected from mineral, mineral-organic, or organic pigments.

[0435] According to a particular embodiment, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments treated on the surface by an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds.

[0436] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are mineral pigments.

[0437] DIRECT COLORS

[0438] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic active ingredient is a coloring material chosen from one or more direct colorant(s).

[0439] By "direct dye" is meant natural and / or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

[0440] Among the direct dyes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.

[0441] Direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Examples include hydrazono cationic dyes of formulas (A) and (B) below and azo cationic dyes of formulas (C) and (D) below:

[0442] Hét+-C(Ra)=NN(Rb)-Ar, Q (A)

[0443] Hét+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)-Ar, Q (B)

[0444] Het+-N=N-Ar, Q (C)

[0445] Ar+-N=N-Ar' ', Q (D)

[0446] formulas (A) to (D) in which:

[0447] - Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially charged endocyclic cationic such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, possibly preferentially substituted by at least one (Ci-C8)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0448] - Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with a cationic charge exocyclic preferentially ammonium particularly tri(Ci-C8)alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

[0449] - Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, possibly substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as (CrC8)alkyl possibly substituted, (Ci-C8)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxy group, aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino, and N-(Ci-C8)alkyl-N-aryl(Ci-C8)alkylamino possibly substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group;

[0450] - Ar” represents a (hetero)aryl group possibly substituted such that phenyl or pyrazolyl possibly substituted, preferably by one or more (CrC8)alkyl, hydroxy, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino, (CrC8)alkoxy or phenyl groups;

[0451] - Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (CrC8)alkyl group possibly substituted, preferably by a hydroxy group;

[0452] or the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and / or Rb with a substituent of Ar together form with the atoms which bear them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Cr C4)alkyl group possibly substituted by a hydroxy group;

[0453] - Q" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

[0454] In particular, one can cite the endocyclic cationic azo and hydrazono direct dyes of formula (A) to (D) as defined above.

[0455] More specifically, endocyclic cationic direct dyes described in patent applications WO 95 / 15144, WO 95 / 01772 and EP-714954.

[0456] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from the compounds with the following formulas (E) and (F):

[0457] [Chem. 19]

[0458] (E)

[0459] [Chem.20]

[0460] (F)

[0461] formulas (E) or (F) in which:

[0462] - R1 represents an (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0463] - R2 and R3, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl;

[0464] - R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (Ci -C8)alkyl possibly substituted, (Ci-C8)alkoxy possibly substituted, (di)(Ci-C8)(alkyl)amino possibly substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxy group; particularly R4 is a hydrogen atom;

[0465] - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH;

[0466] - Q" is an anionic counter ion as defined above, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl.

[0467] In particular, the dyes of formula (E) and (F) are selected from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87, and Basic Orange 31, or their derivatives, with Q being an anionic counterion as defined above, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesytyl. The direct dyes may be selected from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes because of their affinity for alkaline substances.

[0468] By "anionic direct dyes" is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO2R' or SO3R' substituent with R' designating a hydrogen atom or a cation from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion.

[0469] Anionic direct dyes may be selected from acidic nitro direct dyes, acidic azo dyes, acidic azinic dyes, acidic triarylmethanic dyes, acidic indoamine dyes, acidic anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acidic natural dyes.

[0470] Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention are lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular henna-based poultices or extracts, can also be used.

[0471] Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.

[0472] Colouring materials, preferably pigments, may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.05% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

[0473] The direct colorant(s) may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

[0474] Preferably, the cosmetic active ingredient(s), in particular the colouring material(s), and more particularly the pigment(s), are introduced into at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5".

[0475] CARE ACTIVES

[0476] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses one or more active skincare ingredients.

[0477] More particularly, in the process of the invention, according to one embodiment, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" used comprises one or more active ingredients, preferably at a concentration of at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question. In particular, the active ingredient may be at least a hydrophilic and / or a lipophilic active ingredient, and preferably a hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0478] The term “hydrophilic active” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible active capable of forming hydrogen bonds.

[0479] The cosmetic active ingredient(s) may be chosen from among: a) vitamins and their derivatives, in particular their esters, especially tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives; b) humectants, especially urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerol glucoside, diglycerol glucoside, polyglyceryl glucosides, and xylityl glucoside, and in particular glycerol; c) C-glycoside compounds; d) antioxidant compounds; e) anti-aging actives, in particular hyaluronic acid compounds, and in particular sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, salicylic acid compounds and in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (capryloyl salicylic acid), caffeine, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl)acetic acid; f) skin-conditioning agents selected from allantoin, panthenol and protein hydrolysates; (g) polyphenols, in particular escin, ruscus, diosmin, hesperidin, resveratrol, and (h) mixtures thereof.

[0480] In particular, in the process of the invention, according to one embodiment, at least one of the compositions "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented comprises a moisturizing agent (also called a humectant). Preferably, the active ingredient is a moisturizing agent, and in particular is glycerin (glycerol).

[0481] The active ingredient(s) may in particular be present in the composition or container(s) in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.02% to 25% by weight.

[0482] UV FILTERS

[0483] According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented includes, as a cosmetic active ingredient, at least one UV filter.

[0484] The UV filter(s) is a UV filter commonly used in cosmetics.

[0485] It can be chosen from the positive list contained in Annex VI of Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009, which specifies the list of UV filters authorized in cosmetics.

[0486] The UV filters suitable for the invention can be of different kinds.

[0487] They can be lipophilic, hydrophilic or insoluble organic.

[0488] By "lipophilic UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.

[0489] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0490] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological filter that is neither defined as a lipophilic UV filter nor as a hydrophilic UV filter, and that is in the form of particles in an aqueous or oily liquid phase. UV filters The composition according to the invention can provide UVA and / or UVB photoprotection.

[0491] According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions, preferably cosmetic, may include at least one organic and / or mineral UV filter (filters of UV radiation from sunlight).

[0492] In particular, the UV filter(s) are selected from bis-resorcinyl triazine derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Organic UV filters may also be selected from anthranilics; cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; phenyl benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, including those cited in US patent 5,624,663; phenyl benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives, as described in EP patents 6,693,230 and US patents 2,463,264; and p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives. the derivatives of methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole), as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119;Benzoxazole derivatives, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO 93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes as described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; other merocyanine derivatives such as those described in applications WO 04006878, WO 05058269 and WO 06032741 and mixtures thereof.

[0493] According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of organic UV filters in the compositions varies from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even, for example, from 5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0494] The UV filter(s) may be mineral UV filters, which are generally pigments. The pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0495] Thus, mineral UV filters can be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, and in particular from coated titanium oxide pigments, titanium oxides treated with silicone, uncoated titanium oxide pigments, uncoated zinc oxide pigments, coated zinc oxide pigments, uncoated cerium oxide pigments, uncoated iron oxide pigments, coated iron oxide pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0496] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions “Cl” to “C5” are devoid of mineral UV filters.

[0497] According to a particular embodiment, the quantity of the mineral UV filter(s) present in compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. For example, it ranges from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0498] According to a particular embodiment, at least one of the compositions "Cl" to "C5" further comprises one or more organic UV filters and one or more mineral UV filters.

[0499] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions comprise an association of UV filters as described in French patent FR 2 977 490, application WO 2013 / 004777 or US application 2014 / 0134120.

[0500] Preferably, the process for treating keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, and the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" employ or comprise one or more coloring materials selected from pigments, direct dyes and their mixtures, preferably pigments; more preferably the pigment(s) of the invention are selected from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black iron oxides and iron oxide-coated micas, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet pigments such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red pigments such as D&C RED 7, alkali metal salt of lithol red such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferably red iron oxides and yellow iron oxides.

[0501] FAT PHASE - FAT BODY

[0502] According to a particular embodiment, the process of the invention uses v) one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile.

[0503] In particular, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented in the process of the invention contains a fatty phase.

[0504] In particular, at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented in the process of the invention comprises one or more fatty substances, in particular one or more oils, preferably volatile.

[0505] By "oil" is meant a liquid fat at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0506] By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0507] According to one embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) v) is / are chosen from volatile oils, in particular:

[0508] - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, in particular isoalkanes, more particularly iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably Ci3-Ci6 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), linear alkanes, in particular Cn-Ci6, alone or in mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins in particular n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM), the undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn), and mixtures thereof as well as mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3), and non-aromatic cyclic alkanes, in volatile C5-Ci2;

[0509] - short-chain esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate;

[0510] - hydrocarbon oils carbonate of structure R'i-OC(O)-O-R'2 in which R'i and R'2 independently designate a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously, more preferably chosen from dibutylcarbonate or dipentylcarbonate;

[0511] - RrO-R2 ether oils, in which Ri and R2 denote, independently of each other, a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group;

[0512] - silicone oils, in particular comprising 2 to 7 silicon atoms, and comprising, possibly, alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethyl isiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof;

[0513] more preferably the volatile oil(s) v) are chosen from among the C8-Ci6 alkanes, in particular branched, preferably isododecane.

[0514] In particular, at least one of the compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” or “C5” used in the process according to the invention comprises one or more non-volatile oil(s), preferably chosen from:

[0515] - non-volatile fluorinated oils, in particular selected from fluorinated polyethers, fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated silicones;

[0516] - non-volatile silicone oils, in particular selected from silicones non-volatile substances with the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and mixtures thereof;

[0517] - non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from the linear or branched compounds, of mineral or synthetic origin: i) paraffin oil, ii) squalane, isoeicosane, iii) mixtures of linear hydrocarbons, saturated, more particularly in Ci5-C28, in particular mixtures whose INCI names are (Ci5-Ci9)alkane, (Ci8-C2i)alkane, (C2i-C28)alkane, iv) polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, v) polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated, vi) polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, vii) decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers and viii) their mixtures;

[0518] - non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils that may be selected from:

[0519] (i) fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, of C10-C26, preferably mono-alcohols; in particular, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms; preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular lauryl, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;

[0520] ii) triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C[8 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; by way of examples, one may mention in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides; vegetable oils such as wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot kernel, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip, peanut, coconut, argan, passionflower, kaya;the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof;

[0521] iii) linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RC(O)-OR' in which RC(O)-O- represents the carboxylic acid remainder comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol; the total number of carbon atoms being in particular at least 10; in particular selected from isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanic acid such as isodecyl neopentanate, isotridecyl neopentanate, isostearyl neopentanate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanate, isononanoic acid esters, in particular isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate;lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate;

[0522] iv) hydroxylated esters, in particular polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

[0523] v) aromatic esters, in particular tridecyl trimellitate, alcohol benzoate in C12-C15, the 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate;

[0524] vi) linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number from 35 to 70, in particular pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

[0525] vii) C24-C28 branched fatty alcohol or fatty acid esters, in particular triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tridecyl-2-tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate;

[0526] viii) polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, in particular of INCI name dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer; polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and diol dimer, in particular dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate dimer;

[0527] ix) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular dicaprylyl ether;

[0528] x) di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being either identical or different, in particular dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0529] xi) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, in particular the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer; and

[0530] xii) their mixtures;

[0531] - non-volatile carbonate oils can be selected from carbonates of formula R8-OC(O)-O-R9, with R8 and R9, identical or different, representing a alkyl chain from C4 to C12, and preferably from C6 to C10, linear or branched; the carbonate oils may be dicaprylyl carbonate (or dioctyl carbonate), di(ethyl-2-hexyl) carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dibutyl carbonate; di-neopentyl carbonate; dipentyl carbonate; di-neoheptyl carbonate; di-heptyl carbonate; di-isononyl carbonate; or di-nonyl carbonate; and preferably dioctyl carbonate;

[0532] - oils called non-volatile ether oils of formula RrO-R2 in which Ri and R2 independently denote a linear, branched, or cyclic C6-C24 alkyl group, preferably a C6-Ci8 alkyl group, and preferably a C8-Ci2 alkyl group. It may be preferable for Ri and R2 to be identical. Examples of linear alkyl groups include hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undodyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, behenyl, docosyl, tricosyl, and tetracosyl groups.Examples of branched alkyl groups include 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 3-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl, ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 5-methyloctyl, 1-ethylhexyl, 1-butylpentyl, 2-butyloctyl, isotridecyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2-hexyldecyl, isostearyl, 2-heptylundecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl, 1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl, l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl, and a group 3,7-dimethyloctyl, and a 2-(l,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.Examples of cyclic alkyl groups include cyclohexyl, 3-methylcyclohexyl and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl, dilaury ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonylphenyl ether, dodecyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl dimethyl butyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether and mixtures thereof; .

[0533] Preferably, the non-volatile oil(s) is / are chosen from among the polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, preferably hydrogenated, in particular the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range; the mixtures of C15-C19 Alkane, and from among the linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RC(O)-OR' in which RC(O)-O represents a carboxylic acid remainder comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, as defined above, in particular isononyl isononanoate.

[0534] More preferably, the process of the invention uses one or more hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, in particular iso-alkanes, preferably Ci3-Ci6 Isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, alone or in mixtures, and more preferably isododecane.

[0535] In particular, the quantity of oil(s) in at least one of the compositions "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" implemented in the process according to the invention ranges from 50% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly from 60% to 98% by weight, preferably from 70% to 97%, better from 75% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0536] COMPOSITIONS

[0537] According to a preferred embodiment, the process for treating keratinous materials according to the invention uses anhydrous organic solvents, and the composition(s) "Cl" to "C5" used in the process of the invention comprise an organic solvent selected from: - alcohols, more preferably ethanol, - hydrocarbon oils preferably in C8-C22, more preferably in C10-C20, in particular volatile, more particularly chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from isododecane and octyldodecanol, and more preferably the hydrocarbon oil is isododecane; or a mixture of non-volatile and volatile oils, preferably including at least isododecane as a volatile oil, and a phenyl silicone oil, in particular a pentaphenyl silicone oil; - and their mixtures.

[0538] By "organic solvent" is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving another substance without chemically altering it.

[0539] Thus, in particular, the composition "Cl" is anhydrous. Preferably, the composition "Cl" is anhydrous, and it comprises at least one organic solvent selected from alcohols, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one hydrocarbon oil, in particular volatile, more preferably isododecane.

[0540] In particular, composition "C2" is anhydrous. Preferably, composition "C2" is anhydrous, and it comprises at least one organic solvent selected from alcohols, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one hydrocarbon oil, in particular volatile, more preferably isododecane.

[0541] In particular, composition “C3” is anhydrous. Preferably, composition “C3” is anhydrous, and it comprises at least one organic solvent selected from the alcohols, hydrocarbon oils and their mixtures, preferably at least one hydrocarbon oil, in particular volatile, more preferably isododecane.

[0542] In particular, composition "C4" is anhydrous. Preferably, composition "C4" is anhydrous, and it comprises at least one organic solvent selected from alcohols, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one hydrocarbon oil, in particular volatile, more preferably isododecane.

[0543] In particular, composition "C5" is anhydrous. Preferably, composition "C4" is anhydrous, and it comprises at least one organic solvent selected from alcohols, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one hydrocarbon oil, in particular volatile, more preferably isododecane.

[0544] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” and / or “C5” comprise isododecane.

[0545] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions “C4” or “C5” may be in aqueous form, water-in-oil emulsion or oil-in-water emulsion.

[0546] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, composition "C4" is aqueous or hydroalcoholic; preferably, composition "C4" is aqueous. According to another variant, composition "C5" is aqueous or hydroalcoholic.

[0547] The compositions “C4” and “C5” implemented in the process of the invention may further comprise one or more organic solvents.

[0548] Examples of organic solvents include: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) water-miscible polyols at room temperature (25 °C), in particular polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, diglycerin; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether; and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0549] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises one or more polyols, in particular chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glycerin.

[0550] The compositions “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” or “C5” implemented in the process of the invention may further comprise one or more adjuvants commonly used in cosmetics, in particular chosen from thickeners, film-forming agents other than compounds of formula (I), gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestrants, perfumes, alkalizing agents or acidifiers, dispersing agents, preservatives, fillers, surfactants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, free radical scavengers, propellants, polar additives, polymers, or mixtures thereof.

[0551] Another object of the invention is a “C3” composition comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above, iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile, preferably isododecane.

[0552] Another object of the invention is the cosmetic use of the composition “C3” as defined above, for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair.

[0553] A composition “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” or “C5” is generally suitable for application on keratinous materials, in particular application on skin, lips and / or keratinous fibers, and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with keratinous materials, in particular application on skin, lips and / or keratinous fibers, including human keratinous fibers such as hair.

[0554] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, i.e. tingling, pulling, which may deter the user from applying this composition.

[0555] A composition “Cl”, “C2”, “C3”, “C4” or “C5” may be in the form of a makeup product, in particular coloured, for the skin, in particular a foundation, possibly having care properties, a blush, a cheek or eyeshadow, a concealer, an eyeliner; a lip makeup product such as a lipstick, possibly having care properties, a lip gloss, lip pencils; a makeup product for the appendages such as nails, eyelashes in particular in the form of a bar mascara, eyebrows and hair, a temporary tattoo product for the skin of the body.

[0556] According to a particular embodiment, a composition "Cl", "C2", "C3", "C4" or "C5" is presented in the form: - either a colored lip product; - either a skincare product, possibly coloured, in particular a cream or fluid with moisturising and / or filling and / or tightening properties; or - either a hair product, in particular a hair coloring product.

[0557] KIT

[0558] According to yet another aspect, the present invention also relates to a kit or device, particularly a cosmetic one, with several compartments comprising:

[0559] - at least one compartment containing at least i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, as defined above, possibly iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular as defined above, and possibly v) at least one oil, in particular volatile, preferably isododecane, in particular comprising the composition "Cl" as defined above;

[0560] - at least one compartment separate from that which contains i) and containing ii) at less one crosslinking agent, in particular as defined above, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile, preferably isododecane, in particular comprising composition 'C4' as defined above; and

[0561] - optionally, at least one compartment separate from those which contain i) and ii), and containing iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular as defined above, identical or different from that / those possibly contained in the compartments comprising i) and ii).

[0562] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities shown are expressed as mass percentages. Examples

[0563] METHODS AND MEASURES

[0564] SKIN APPLICATION

[0565] a) One-step protocol

[0566] The compounds of formula (I) with acetoacetate functions, and optionally the crosslinking agents, are mixed together before application. The system remains fluid long enough to allow application to the substrate.

[0567] The compositions are applied to a Bioskin-type vitro support from Maprecos (Bioskin plate #10) (elastomer skin-simulating support) using a film puller (wet thickness 100 µm). The deposit is left to dry for 24 hours.

[0568] After 24 hours of drying, the evaluations of the deposits are carried out according to the protocols described below.

[0569] b) Two-step protocol

[0570] A first composition, called the "base coat", is applied to a Bioskin type vitro substrate from Maprecos (Bioskin plate #10) (elastomer skin-simulating substrate) using a film puller (wet thickness 100 µm). The deposit is allowed to dry for 24 h.

[0571] After this first step, a second composition, called "top coat", is applied in the same way.

[0572] The deposit is left to dry for 24 hours.

[0573] After 24 hours of drying, the evaluations of the deposits are carried out according to the protocols described below.

[0574] Scotch Tape Resistance

[0575] A piece of tape (3M Scotch® Magic™ 810; 1 = 19 mm, L = 5 cm) is applied to the deposit. A weight of approximately 1070 g is applied to the piece of tape for 30 seconds. The piece of tape is then removed and placed on a microscope slide to observe the result. The film's adhesion to the substrate is thus evaluated.

[0576] RESISTANCE TO OLIVE OIL / SEBUM / WATER

[0577] 0.5 mL of olive oil, sebum or water is applied to the formulation film. After 5 minutes, the olive oil, sebum, or water is removed by 15 passes with a cotton ball. The deterioration of the film following contact with the droplet of the irritant is then observed.

[0578] In the case of a two-step protocol, for each association, evaluations are conducted for the "base coat" composition alone after drying, and on the "base coat" + "top coat" composition system after drying, the objective being to observe the cosmetic properties improved by such associations.

[0579] Resistance is evaluated according to the following scale:

[0580] +++ : Cosmetic property evaluated as very effective, no aggression to the deposit which is as it was originally;

[0581] ++: Cosmetic property evaluated as moderately effective, some transfer but the deposit is as it was originally;

[0582] + : Cosmetic property evaluated as performing poorly, the deposit is slightly altered and it is observed some transfer;

[0583] 0: Cosmetic property evaluated as not performing, the application is completely degraded and there is a lot of transfer onto the cotton.

[0584] HAIR COLOUR APPLICATION

[0585] The hair coloring evaluation protocol is detailed below:

[0586] The evaluations are conducted according to two different protocols: in 1 or 2 step(s), each on strands of natural hair that are 90% white.

[0587] a) One-step protocol

[0588] The compounds of formula (I) with acetoacetate functional groups, and optionally the crosslinking agents, are mixed together before application. The system remains fluid long enough to allow application to the substrate.

[0589] The composition is applied to strands of dry natural hair that are 90% white, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of strand.

[0590] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 5 minutes.

[0591] The hair strands are then combed and blow-dried for 3 minutes.

[0592] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 18 hours at 80% relative humidity. The hair is colored evenly and intensely.

[0593] The hair strands thus coloured are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the colour obtained to the shampoos, according to the shampoo protocol described below.

[0594] b) Two-step protocol

[0595] A first composition, called a "base coat," is applied to strands of dry, natural hair that is 90% white, at a rate of 0.5 g of the composition per gram of strand. The strands are then combed. This coating is applied to the keratinous materials and then left to dry for between 10 seconds and 24 hours, particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, such as 30 minutes, at room temperature (25 °C). This drying step can be accelerated by subjecting the keratinous material to heat after application, for example, with a hairdryer.

[0596] After this first step, a second composition, called "top coat", is applied to the strand of hair, at a rate of 0.5 g per gram of strand.

[0597] After application, the hair strands are then combed and dried with a hairdryer.

[0598] The hair strands are left at room temperature for 24 hours under a fume hood. The hair is colored evenly and intensely.

[0599] The hair strands thus coloured are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos in order to evaluate the tenacity (the persistence) of the colour obtained to the shampoos, according to the shampoo protocol described below.

[0600] SHAMPOO PROTOCOL

[0601] The colored hair strands are combed, moistened under water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times for 5 seconds. The hair strands are then squeezed between two fingers.

[0602] A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) is applied evenly to the colored strands at a rate of 0.4 g of standard shampoo per gram of strands, gently massaging the strands of hair along their length (6 passes) for 15 seconds, from root to tip.

[0603] The strands of hair are then placed in a watch glass and left for 1 minute.

[0604] Next, the hair strands are rinsed with water by passing the strand between the fingers (15 passes). The hair strands are then squeezed dry between two fingers before the next shampoo.

[0605] Once the tests of several shampoos have been carried out, the strands of hair are combed and dried with a hairdryer.

[0606] REMAINENCE PROTOCOL

[0607] The persistence of the color of the strands was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

[0608] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.

[0609] The permanence of the color is assessed by the color difference AE between the colored strands before shampooing, and then after three shampoos according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more the color remains after shampooing.

[0610] The value of AE is calculated according to the following equation:

[0611] [Math.l] ae -

[0612] In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values ​​measured after hair coloring and after shampooing, and Lo*ao*bo* represent the values ​​measured after hair coloring but before shampooing.

[0613] EXAMPLE 1: Synthesis of trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan with acetoacetate function (polysaccharide 1)

[0614] In a 100 mL flask equipped with a mechanical stirrer and a distillation column, 30 g of Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan (30% by weight in isododecane, i.e., 9 g of active material; marketed by Shin-Etsu under the name TSPL-30-ID) and 20 g of tert-butyl acetoacetate are introduced. The reaction mixture is heated in an oil bath (oil bath temperature 140 °C - 150 °C) for 3 h. After 3 h, an ¹H NMR analysis confirms the grafting of the acetoacetate groups. The reaction mixture is then purified using a rotary evaporator at 150 °C under continuous vacuum.

[0615] The trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan polymer with acetoacetate functions is obtained in the form of a highly viscous amber-colored gel.

[0616] EXAMPLE 2: Preparation of compositions A and B - Without crosslinking agent

[0617] Composition B, comprising a polysaccharide compound of formula (I), and composition A, devoid of compound of formula (I), are prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0618] [Tables 1] Compounds Formula A (comparative) Formula B (investigative) Trimethylsiloxysilyl(II) Pullulai (marketed by Shm-Etsu under the name TSPL-30-ID) 10 mA - Polysaccharide 1 (example 1) - 10 mA Red Iron Oxide (CI: 77491, Sunpuw Red Iron Oxide C33-SOOL marketed by Sun) 5' 5 Isododecay Qsp 100 Qsp 100

[0619] Table 1

[0620] Compositions A and B are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 1 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing device that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0621] EXAMPLE 3: One-step skin application of compositions A and B (without crosslinker)

[0622] Evaluations in simplex formulas were conducted to show performance for skin application.

[0623] Compositions A and B are applied according to the 1-step skin application protocol described above.

[0624] The deposits are then evaluated according to the sebum and tape resistance protocols of the formulations on Bioskin.

[0625] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0626] [Tables2] Properties of Scotch Tape Test Resistance an ||||||g®^ Formula A (comparative) 0 0 Formula B (invention) 4- -4—

[0627] Table 2

[0628] It appears that the application of composition B according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a sebum retention, improved compared to the application of composition A. The tape test is also very effective, thus showing that composition B has better adhesion to the substrate compared to composition A.

[0629] We therefore obtain, thanks to the application of composition B according to the process of the invention, deposits resistant to daily chemical aggressions (sebum).

[0630] EXAMPLE 4: Preparation of compositions C and D - With crosslinking agent

[0631] Compositions C and D are prepared from the contents indicated in the table below. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition in question.

[0632] [Tables3] Formula C (Base Coat + Top Coat) (comparative) Formula D (Base Coat + Top Coat) (invention) BASE COAT Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbainoyl Pulpyl (marketed by Shm-Etsu under the name TSPL-30-ID) W - Polysaccharide 1 (example 1) - 10 Red Iron Oxide (CI: 77491, Sunpuro Red Iron Oxide C33-8001, marketed by Sun) 5 5 Isododecane qsp 100 qsp 100 TOP COAT Bis-Ceteyl Amodimethicone (marketed by Mamentive Performance Materials) £ Isododecane qsp 1.00

[0633] Table 3

[0634] The "Base Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 3 using a Speed ​​Mixer (an equipment mixing which uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0635] The "Top Coat" compositions are prepared by simply mixing the ingredients detailed in Table 3 using a Speed ​​Mixer (a mixing equipment that uses centrifugal force) for 2 minutes, at 3500 rpm and at room temperature.

[0636] EXAMPLE 5: Two-step skin application of compositions C and D (with crosslinking agent)

[0637] Compositions C and D are applied according to the 2-step skin application protocol described above.

[0638] The deposits are then evaluated according to protocols for resistance to olive oil, sebum and scotch tape.

[0639] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0640] [Tables4] Scotch Properties Resistance to Formula C (comparative) 0 H- Formula D (mvenUon) “H“”F

[0641] Table 4

[0642] It appears that the application of composition D according to the process of the invention makes it possible to obtain a residual effect on sebum and olive oil, improved compared to the application of composition C.

[0643] The successive application of the "base coat" type composition on the "top coat" type composition according to formula D, improves adhesion, in particular to the substrate of the deposits obtained.

[0644] We therefore obtain, thanks to the application of composition D according to the process of the invention, deposits resistant to daily chemical aggressions (sebum / olive oil) and very good adhesion to the support.

[0645] EXAMPLE 6: Application of hair colouring in 2 steps of compositions C and D (with crosslinking agent)

[0646] Compositions C and D are applied according to the hair coloring application protocol with crosslinking agent described above.

[0647] The evaluation results are summarized in the table below:

[0648] [Tables5] Composition Number of shampoos L* a* b* Æ tensioner rise AE. rémsàeïiŒ Control - 59.94 1.28 13.60 - - Formula C (Base Coat Top Coat) (comparative) 0 32.61 wo O 15.07 34.32 - 3 5L55 MJ 11.30 - 23.63 Formula D (Base Coat + Top Coat) (inyentioa) 0 3 / .58 '7 ■ ? 16.25 p - 3 48.41 10.79 12.08 19.61

[0649] Table 5

[0650] The colored hair strands according to the invention exhibit a lower AE residual value than that obtained for the colored hair strands according to the comparative process.

[0651] Thus, the colored hair strands according to the invention make it possible to obtain an improvement in colonic persistence.

Claims

1. Demands A process for treating, in particular for cosmetic purposes, keratinous materials, especially skin and / or lips and / or keratinous fibers, particularly for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials, in one or more successive steps, of at least: (i) one or more compounds of formula (I) comprising at least one silicon atom and at least two acetoacetate functions as well as their optical, geometric, acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, or a composition containing them: formula (I) in which: - R1 represents a polysaccharide radical comprising at least one silicon atom, multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, consisting of at least 2 monosaccharide units, preferably at least 3 monosaccharide units, more preferably at least 10 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms; - R2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in Ci to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (CrC 4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl; - X is a heteroatom or group chosen from -O-, -S-, -N(R')-, and their combinations, such as -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, -N(R')-C(O)-O-, -N(R')-C(O)-N(R')-, preferably X represents -O-; - Ra and Rb, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy (OH) group, preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, more preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom; - n denotes an integer from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200; and ii) possibly at least one crosslinking agent.

2. A treatment method according to claim 1, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I), as well as their optical and / or geometric isomers, their acid or base salts, and / or their solvates such as hydrates, are such that R1 represents a multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, polysaccharide radical comprising at least one silicon atom, consisting of at least 2 monosaccharide units, preferably at least 3 monosaccharide units, more preferably at least 10 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms, and: - of which one or more of the hydroxyl (-OH) groups of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units are optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from R3,R5; and / or - of which one or more of the carboxy groups (-C(O)-OH) of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units are optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from R'3; and / or - of which one or more of the amino groups -NH2 of all or part of at least one of the monosaccharide units are optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from R3, R5; with : - R3, whether identical or different, represents a group chosen from: 1) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+, 2) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, and 3) (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl, linear or branched, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxy (-OH); b) sulfonate -SO3, Caf; c) sulfate -O-SO3, Caf; d) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)p-R4; f) -C(O)-R4; g) -C(O)-O-R4; h) -OC(O)-R4; i) -C(O)-N(R')-R4; j) -N(R')-C(O)-R4; k) ammonium -N+R”3 ; An and 1) their mixtures; preferably, R3, identical or different, represents a group selected from a1) (hydroxy) (Ci-C4)alkyl linear or branched, a2) (hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl linear or branched; - R'3, identical or different, represents a group chosen from: 1) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group possibly being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (Ci-C22)alkyl group possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from: a) hydroxyl (-OH); b) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)p-R4 and mixtures thereof; or 2) -Si(R'”)3 ; and their mixtures; - R”3, identical or different, represents a linear or branched (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl group, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group optionally being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (Ci-C22)alkyl group optionally being substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxy (-OH); b) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; c) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)p-R4; and 1) mixtures thereof; preferably R”3, identical or different, represents a linear or branched (hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl group; - R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a group (Ci-C8 )alkyl, linear or branched preferably R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, more preferably a linear or branched (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; - R5 represents 1) a -CO-NH-(CH2)m- [Si(Rc)2_O-Si(Rc)2-(CH2)]q-SiRcu-(OSiRd3)3 u group or 2) a -Si(R”')3 group or 3) an alkyl radical (Cl-Cl2) possibly interrupted by a heteroatom such as an oxygen atom and / or a carbonyl and / or their combinations such as esters said alkyl radical being substituted by at least one -Si(R'”)3 radical and possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy radical; preferably R5 denotes -CO-NH-(CH2)m-Si -(OSiR'”3)3 ; - Rc independently represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group or an alkoxy(CrC2) group or an -OSi(CH3)3 group, preferably a -CH3 group ; - Rd independently represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably CH3 ; - R”, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl;- R'" independently represents an alkyl radical Ci-C6, preferably Ci-C4, more preferably Ci-C2, such as methyl; - m denotes an integer from 1 to 10, preferably 3; - q denotes an integer from 0 to 1; - u denotes an integer from 1 to 3; - p denotes an integer from 0 to 3; - An represents an anionic counterion; - Cat+ represents a cationic counterion; it being understood that the radical R1 contains at least one Si atom.

3. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) is / are such that the polysaccharide chain comprising at least one silicon atom represented by R1 is selected from polysaccharide radicals comprising at least one silicon atom derived from agarose, starch and its derivatives, cationic starch, alginate and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid, cellulose and its derivatives, in particular selected from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and hydroxybutylcellulose, carrageenan, curdlan, the

4. dextran, glucan, guar gum, gellan, konjac, inulin, pectin, pullulan, scleroglucan, xanthan gum and their derivatives, preferably selected from cellulose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and pullulan and its derivatives, and more preferably selected from pullulan and its derivatives, such as trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) is / are selected from: a) cellulose comprising at least one Si atom, starch comprising at least one Si atom, amylose comprising at least one Si atom and their derivatives, of formula (IV) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: b) alginate comprising at least one Si atom, pectin comprising at least one Si atom and their derivatives, of formula (V) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: c) hyaluronic acid comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (VI) as well as their isomers and solvates: d) dextran comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (VII) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (VII) e) inulin comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (VIII) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (f) Guar gum comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (IX) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (IX) (g) glucan comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (X) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: (X) (h) Carrageenan comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, in particular of formula (XI), as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: R7 / d (XI) in particular chosen from the derivatives y-carrageenan, ô-carrageenan, q-carrageenan, v-carrageenan, X-carrageenan, and their respective basic forms [3-carrageenan, a-carrageenan, K-carrageenan, i-carrageenan, 0-carrageenan, it being understood that the carragenans comprise at least two formula groups (XV) as described below; i) cyclodextrin comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (XIII): j) pullulan comprising at least one Si atom and its derivatives, of formula (XIV) as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: formulas (IV) to (XIV) in which: - R6, whether identical or different, represents CH2OR3 or -CH2- OR5 or -C(O)-OR3. - R7, whether identical or different, represents a radical R3 or R5 or a group R9 of formula (XV): R$ (XV) formula (XV) in which Ra, Rb, and R2 are such as defined previously for compounds of formula (I), preferably R2 denotes a methyl radical and Ra and Rb denote a hydrogen atom;

5. - R10, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, such as -CH3 or an R9 group as defined above; - m denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200; - An being as defined in claim 2; - R3, R5, R3 being as defined in claim 2; - R7 represents an R7 radical or a -SO3, Cat+ group, Cat+ being as defined in claim 2, or a group of formula (XV); it being understood that formulas (IV) to (XIV) comprise at least one Sieton atom and at least two R9 motifs of formula (XV), in their structure. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) of formula (I) is / are selected from the compounds of formula (XVI) comprising at least one Si atom and comprising at least two motifs of formula (XV) according to claim 4, its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates: A r\ formula (XVI) in which: - m is as defined in claim 2; - R11, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or an R5 group or an R3 group as defined in formula (I) or an R9 group as defined in claim 4; it being understood that the compound of formula (XVI) comprises at least two R9 groups, and at least one R5 group preferably selected from a -CO-NH-(CH2)m-[Si(Rc)2_O-Si(RcM^ , plus preferentially -CO-NH-(CH2)m-Si -(OSiR'”3)3 such that -CO-NH- ALK-Si(OSiMe3)3, with ALK a saturated linear divalent hydrocarbon chain C2-C6, preferably C2-C4 such as C3; in particular the compound of formula (I) is trimethylsiloxysilyl carbamoyl pullulan acetoacetate.

6. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of at least ii) a crosslinking agent.

7. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the application to said keratin materials of at least ii) a crosslinking agent selected from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, (poly)carbonyl, (poly)acrylate, metal alkoxide compounds, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from (poly)amine, (poly)thiol, metal alkoxide compounds and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from (poly)amine, metal alkoxide compounds and mixtures thereof.

8. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising applying to said keratin materials at least ii) a crosslinking agent selected from: A) (poly)amine compounds selected from: ia) chitosans such as poly(D-Glucosamine), ib) diamine polyethers, in particular polyethylene glycol α, co-diamine, with an amine function at the chain end, ic) triamine polyethers, in particular polyetheramine (or jeffamine), id) aminoalkoxysilanes, in particular APTES, ie) spermidine, and if) polydialkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end or on side chains, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups, more particularly poly(dimethoxysiloxane) terminated by bis(3-aminopropyl) (PDMS-diNH2) and amodimethicones comprising amine groups on side chains, more particularly Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone;B) (poly)thiol compounds selected from: iia) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, and iib) alkoxysilanes with thiol functions,; and in particular selected from compounds iia) polydialkylsiloxanes with thiol functions, preferably from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising thiol groups on the side chain, in particular mercaptopropyl, and more particularly selected from compounds of formula (XIII): Ra-Si(Rb)(Rd)-O-[Si(Ra)(Rb)-O]m-[Si(Rb)(ALKrSH)-O]n-Si(Rb)(Rd)-R “(XIII) formula (XIII) in which: - Ra and Rb, identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(CrC4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, and preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl, - Rd represents a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy, an aryl group, in particular phenyl, an aryloxy group, in particular phenoxy, an aryl(CrC4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, an aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular benzoxy, or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group substituted by a (Ci-C4)alkylamino, amino, or thiol group, and preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl, and preferably Ra, Rb, and Rd are identical and represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, more preferably methyl, - ALKi represents a divalent hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly cyclic, possibly interrupted by one or more heteroatoms, such as oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen, in particular oxygen, a (thio)carbonyl group C(X) with X representing O or S, or their combinations, in particular -O-, -OC(O)- or -C(O)-O-, preferably ALKi represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group, more preferably (Ci-C4)alkylene, even more preferably propylene, - n and m, whether identical or different, represent an integer greater than 2, and in particular the values ​​of m and n are such that the average molecular weight by weight of said polyorganosiloxane is between 1000 and 55000 g.mol1; C) (poly)acrylate compounds of formula (XIV): L[-YC(O)-C(Re)=CH2]q (XIV) formula (XIV) in which: - q represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, in particular n is inclusively between 2 and 10, and preferably between 2 and 5, - L designates a multivalent group at least divalent, in particular comprising between 1 and 500 carbon and / or silicon atoms, more particularly between 2 and 40 carbon and / or silicon atoms, even more particularly between 3 and 30 carbon and / or silicon atoms, preferably between 6 and 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or (hetero)cyclic, saturated or unsaturated; L being possibly interrupted and / or terminated by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from O, S, N, Si, C(X), and their associations, in particular -O-, -OC(X)-, -N(R)-C(X)-, -Si(Rc)(R d)-O- with R representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci -C6)alkyl group, in particular methyl; and / or L being optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from: -N(Ra)Rb, and -(X')aC(X)-(X”)b-Ra, with X, X' and X”, identical or different, representing an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, or an N(Rb) group, a and b being 0 or 1, preferably the sum of a and b being 1, Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, or an aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular benzyl, preferably Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom, and Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a (Ci-C6)alkyl, aryl(Ci-C4)alkyl or (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, - Re represents a hydrogen atom or an (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, preferably Re represents a hydrogen atom, and - Y represents an oxygen atom or an amino group -N(H)-, preferably an oxygen atom, preferably Y is an oxygen atom and Re is a hydrogen atom, preferably L represents a di- or trivalent hydrocarbon chain, preferably trivalent, comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, q is 2 or 3, preferably 3, and more preferably the compounds of formula (XIV) are trimethylolpropane triacrylate; and D) Metal alkoxides of formula (XIVa): M-CORÛh (XIVJ formula (XIVa) in which M represents an atom chosen from among the transition metals, such as zirconium or titanium, the lanthanide family metals, the post-transition metals, such as aluminium, tin, the metalloids, such as boron, and the alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, preferably M represents a titanium atom; n represents the valence of the atom represented by M, in particular 1, 2, 3 or 4, in particular 4; Ri represents a methyl, ethyl, 2-ethylhexyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or t-butyl group.

9. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein further iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient is applied to said keratinous materials.

10. A treatment method according to claim 9, wherein the cosmetic agent(s) iv) are selected from: a) coloring materials, in particular selected from pigments, direct colorants and mixtures thereof, b) conditioning agents for keratinous materials, preferably of the skin, c) UV filters, and d) mixtures thereof;preferably the cosmetic agent(s) iv) are chosen from a) colouring materials, preferably chosen from pigments, direct colorants and their mixtures, more preferably the pigment(s) are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular yellow, red and black and iron oxide coated micas, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, in particular BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red, more particularly D&C RED 7, the alkali metal salt of lithol red, in particular the calcium salt of lithol red B, and even more preferably from red iron oxides, yellow iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red, more particularly D&C RED 7.;

11. A treatment method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein is further implemented (v) at least one fat, in particular at least one oil, preferably at least one volatile oil.

12. A treatment process according to claim 11, wherein the following is further implemented: (v) at least one fatty substance selected from volatile oils selected from: - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, especially isoalkanes, more particularly iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), preferably Ci3-Ci6 isoparaffin, isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, alone or in mixtures, preferably isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), linear alkanes, especially Cn-Ci6, alone or in mixtures, in particular hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, isoparaffins in particular n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (CM), the undecane-tridecan mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cn), and their mixtures as well as mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Ci3), and non-aromatic cyclic alkanes, in volatile C5-Ci2; - short-chain esters having a total of 3 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; - hydrocarbon carbonate oils of structure R'i-OC(O)-O-R'2 in which R' and R'2 independently designate a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group, advantageously, more preferably chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate; - Ether oils of formula RrO-R2, in which Ri and R2 designate, independently of each other, a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group; - silicone oils, in particular those containing 2 to 7 silicon atoms, and possibly containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, cyclohexadimethylsiloxane, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl

13. trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof; more preferably the volatile oil(s) v) are chosen from among the C8-Ci6 alkanes, in particular branched, preferably isododecane. A treatment process, particularly for cosmetic purposes, of keratinous materials according to any one of the preceding claims, in particular for the care and / or makeup of skin, lips, eyelashes and / or eyebrows and / or for the care, styling and / or coloring of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of at least: - a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvated salts, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane; - a composition, referred to as "C2", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvated, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 6 to 8, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane; - a composition, referred to as "C3", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric, and / or solvated acid or base salts, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 6 to 8, iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and possibly (v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane; - a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising (ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 6 to 8, optionally (iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally (v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane; and / or - a composition, referred to as "C5", comprising (iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally (v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane; it being understood that the compositions "Cl", "C2" and "C3" are anhydrous, and it being understood that the compositions "C4" and "C5" can be anhydrous or aqueous.

14. Processing method according to claim 13, characterized in that it comprises a single step of applying composition "Cl" or composition "C2" or composition "C3" to said keratin materials.

15. Treatment method according to claim 13, characterized in that it comprises two successive application steps on said keratinous materials, of two different compositions, preferably of composition "Cl" and then of composition "C4".

16. A cosmetic treatment process for the care, styling, and / or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising the successive application of at least: - a composition, referred to as "Cl", comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) as well as its optical, geometric, and / or solvated acid or base salts, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular a volatile oil according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane; then - a composition, referred to as "C4", comprising ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 6 to 8, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane; at least one of the compositions "Cl" and / or "C4" containing at least one colouring material, in particular according to claim 10, preferably at least one pigment, and more preferably composition "Cl" comprises at least one pigment.

17. Composition “Cl”, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric isomers, its organic or mineral acid or base salts, and / or solvates, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane.

18. Composition “C2”, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric, acid, or organic or mineral salts, and / or solvates such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 6 to 8, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane.

19. Composition “C3”, comprising i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric, acid, or base salts, organic or mineral, and / or solvated, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 6 to 8, iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane.

20. Process for preparing compounds of the following formula (I): formula (I) in which: - R1 represents a polysaccharide radical comprising at least one silicon atom, multivalent, linear or cyclic, preferably linear, consisting of at least 2 monosaccharide units, preferably at least 3 monosaccharide units, more preferably at least 10 monosaccharide units, each comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, particularly between 7 and 9 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more particularly between 6 and 8 carbon atoms, and more preferably 6 carbon atoms; - R2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in Ci to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (Ci-C 4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl; - X is a heteroatom or group chosen from -O-, -S-, -N(R')-, and their combinations, such as -C(O)-O-, -OC(O)-, -C(O)-N(R')-, -N(R')-C(O)-, -N(R')-C(O)-O-, -N(R')-C(O)-N(R')-, preferably X represents -O-; - Ra and Rb, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy (OH) group, preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, more preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom; - n denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200;

21. characterized in that it comprises at least one reaction step with a polysaccharide comprising at least one silicon atom selected from: - trimethylsilyl alginate ester; - amylose, 2,3,6-tris(trimethylsilyl) ether; - Guar gum, trimethylsilyl carboxymethyl 2-hydroxypropyl ether; guar gum, 2-hydroxypropyltriethylsilyl ether; guar gum, 2-hydroxypropyltrimethylsilyl ether; guar gum, trimethylsilyl; - Trimethylsilyl cellulose; Trimethylsilyl ethyl cellulose; 2-hydroxyethyl trimethylsilyl cellulose; Trimethylsilyl methyl cellulose; Triethylsilyl cellulose; Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl ethyl cellulose; Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl hydroxycellulose; - trimethylsilyl [3-cyclodextrin; - trimethylsilyl pullulan; trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan; - trimethylsilyl inulin; triethylsilyl inulin; - triethylsilyl dextran; trimethylsilyl dextran; ethyldimethylsilyl dextran; - silylated hyaluronic acid, in particular with -Si(R'”)3, its salts and derivatives chosen in particular from trimethylsilyl hyaluronic acid, R”' independently representing an alkyl radical Ci-C6, preferably C1-C4, more preferably Ci-C2 such as methyl; and more preferentially chosen from trimethylsilyl cellulose, silylated hyaluronic acid in particular by -Si(R'”)3, its salts and derivatives chosen in particular from trimethylsilyl hyaluronic acid, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, and trimethylsilyl pullulan; and more preferentially chosen from trimethylsiloxysilylcarb amoyl pullulan. Compounds of the following formulas (IV) to (XIV), as well as their optical isomers, their acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and solvates, such as hydrates: - OH Rq OR' OR7 OR7 / “--- 0 i_____[ 'XIXa^ R0 OR? R® OR' OR; L / - O n-""A ,ù R'O 0:R? ----CH, c F^'OR?O >L y^'y'UUÇ R: 0 .' • P---V ï ■"Y v RtV"A " ..^ y R>- (IV) c (V) (VI) ,A:O (VII) Rk ib \---( R7 / >s- / r-° \ \--o R' (VIII) R7 Ô r'x '"O (XIV) formulas (IV) to (XIV) in which: - R6, whether identical or different, represents -CH2OR3 or -CH2OR5 or - C(O)-OR3, - R7, whether identical or different, represents a radical R3 or R5 or a group R9 of formula (XV): (XV) formula (XV) in which: - R2 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical in C1 to C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, more preferably methyl; - Ra and Rb, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; - R10, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an (CrC4)alkyl group, such as -CH3 or an R9 group as defined above; - m denotes an integer ranging from 2 to 3000, in particular from 5 to 2500, more particularly from 10 to 2300, preferably from 15 to 1000, preferably from 20 to 500, and more preferably from 25 to 200; - An represents an anionic counter ion; - Cat+ represents a cationic counter ion; - R3, whether identical or different, represents a group chosen from: 1) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+, 2) (CrC22)alkyl, linear or branched, and 3) (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl, linear or branched, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxy (-OH); b) sulfonate -SO3, Caf; c) sulfate -O-SO3, Caf; d) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)p-R4; f) -C(O)-R4; g) -C(O)-O-R4; h) -OC(O)-R4; i) -C(O)-N(R')-R4; j) -N(R')-C(O)-R4; k) ammonium -N+R”3 ; An and 1) their mixtures; preferably, R3, identical or different, represents a group selected from a1) (hydroxy) (Ci-C4)alkyl linear or branched, a2) (hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl linear or branched; - R'3, identical or different, represents a group chosen from: 1) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group possibly being interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (Ci-C22)alkyl group possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from: a) hydroxyl (-OH); b) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)p-R4 and mixtures thereof; or 2) -Si(R'”)3 ; and their mixtures; - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy group (OH), preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, more preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom; - R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C8)alkyl group, linear or branched preferably R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group linear or branched, more preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group linear or branched, in particular methyl; - R5 represents 1) a -CO-NH-(CH2)m- [Si(Rc)2_O-Si(Rc)2-(CH2)]q-SiRcu-(OSiRd3)3 u group or 2) a -Si(R”')3 group or 3) an alkyl radical (Cl-Cl2) possibly interrupted by a heteroatom such as an oxygen atom and / or a carbonyl and / or their combinations such as esters said alkyl radical being substituted by at least one -Si(R'”3) radical and possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy radical; preferably R5 denotes -CO-NH-(CH2)m-Si -(OSiR'”3)3;

22. - Rc independently represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group or an alkoxy(Ci-C2) group or an -OSi(CH3)3 group, preferably a -CH3 group; - Rd independently represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably CH3; -R”, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; -R'” independently represents an alkyl radical Ci-C6 preferably C1-C4 more preferably CrC2 such as methyl; - q denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1; - u represents an integer from 1 to 3; - p denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3; - R7 represents an R7 radical or a -SO3 group, Cat+, Cat+ representing a cationic counter ion, or a group of formula (XV); it being understood that formulas (IV) to (XIV) include at least one silicon atom and at least two R9 motifs of formula (XV), in their structure. Compounds of the following formula (XVI) comprising at least one Si atom, its optical, geometric isomers, its salts of organic or mineral acids or bases, and / or solvates, such as hydrates: formula (XVI) in which: - m denotes an integer from 1 to 10, preferably 3; - R11, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or an R3 group or an R5 group or an R9 group; - R3, whether identical or different, represents a group chosen from: 1) sulfonate -SO3, Cat+, 2) (Ci-C22)alkyl, linear or branched, and 3) (Ci-C22)alkylcarbonyl, linear or branched, the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups X as defined below; and / or the (Ci-C22)alkyl group being optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from: a) hydroxy (-OH); b) sulfonate -SO3, Caf; c) sulfate -O-SO3, Caf; d) -(CH2-CH2-O)P-R4; e) -O-(CH2-CH2-O)p-R4; f) -C(O)-R4; g) -C(O)-O-R4; h) -OC(O)-R4; i) -C(O)-N(R')-R4; j) -N(R')-C(O)-R4; k) ammonium -N+R”3 ; An and 1) their mixtures; preferably, R3, identical or different, represents a group selected from a1) (hydroxy) (Ci-C4)alkyl linear or branched, a2) (hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarbonyl linear or branched; - R', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy group (OH), preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, in particular methyl, more preferably R' represents a hydrogen atom; - R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a (CrC8)alkyl group, linear or branched preferably R4 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group linear or branched, more preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group linear or branched, in particular methyl; - R5 represents 1) a -CO-NH-(CH2)m- [Si(Rc)2_O-Si(Rc)2-(CH2)]q-SiRcu-(OSiRd3)3_u group or 2) a -Si(R”')3 group or 3) an alkyl radical (Cl-Cl2) possibly interrupted by a heteroatom such as an oxygen atom and / or a carbonyl atom and / or their combinations such as esters, said alkyl radical being substituted by at least one -Si(R'”3) radical and possibly substituted by at least one hydroxy radical; preferably R5 denotes -CO-NH-(CH2)m-Si-(OSiR'”3)3; - Rc independently represents a linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl group or an alkoxy(Ci-C2) group or an -OSi(CH3)3 group, preferably a -CH3 group; - Rd independently represents a linear or branched (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably CH3; -R”, identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably a (CrC4)alkyl group, in particular methyl; - R'" independently represents a Ci-C6 alkyl radical, preferably C1-C4, more preferably Ci-C2, such as methyl; - q denotes an integer from 0 to 1; - u denotes an integer from 1 to 3; - p denotes an integer from 0 to 3; - An represents an anionic counterion; - Cat+ represents a cationic counterion; it being understood that the compound of formula (XVI) comprises at least two R9 groups, and at least one R5 group, preferably selected from a -CO-NH-(CH2)m-[Si(Rc)2 O-Si(Rc)2-(CH2 )]q-SiRcu-(OSiRd3)3u group, more preferably -CO-NH-(CH2)m-Si-(OSiR'"3)3 such as -CO-NH-ALK-Si(OSiMe3)3, with ALK a saturated linear divalent C2-C6 hydrocarbon chain, of preference C2-C4 such as C3; in particular the compound of formula (XVI) is trimethylsiloxysil ylcarbamoyl pullulan acetoacetate.

23. Kit, in particular cosmetic, with several compartments comprising: - at least one compartment containing at least i) at least one compound of formula (I) and its optical, geometric isomers, its salts of organic or mineral acid or base, and / or solvated, such as hydrates, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane, in particular comprising the composition "Cl" as defined in any one of claims 13, 16 or 17;- at least one compartment separate from that which contains i) and containing ii) at least one crosslinking agent, in particular according to any one of claims 6 to 8, optionally iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, and optionally v) at least one oil, in particular volatile according to any one of claims 11 or 12, preferably isododecane, in particular comprising composition "C4" as defined in any one of claims 13 or 16; and; - optionally, at least one compartment separate from those containing i) and ii), and containing iv) at least one cosmetic active ingredient, in particular according to any one of claims 9 or 10, identical or different from that / those possibly contained in the compartments comprising i) and ii).