Hair cosmetic composition

Abstract

Hair Cosmetic Composition. The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition with revitalizing properties comprising (a) at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide; and (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide. The present invention also relates to the use of the hair care composition to manufacture a product for cleansing, improving the smoothness of hair, and revitalizing hair. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for improving the smoothness of hair. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Hair cosmetic composition FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a hair cosmetic composition with revitalizing properties comprising (a) at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide; and (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide. The present invention also relates to the use of the hair care composition to manufacture a product for cleansing, improving the smoothness of hair, and revitalizing hair. Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for improving the smoothness of hair. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] People use many cosmetic and personal care compositions to improve the appearance and feel of keratinous fibers, such as hair.

[0003] Particularly with regard to cleansing compositions, consumers are therefore always looking for hair-optimized cleansing compositions such as shampoos that provide adequate shine to the hair; good revitalization and feel of the hair, good ease of styling, detangling properties, and in particular of wet hair; regulation, or even elimination, of frizz, and regulation or reduction of volume.

[0004] Numerous attempts at hair cosmetic compositions have been developed to obtain the properties mentioned above.

[0005] An important aspect related to prior art hair cleansing products is that they generally contain ingredients that make hair dry, rough, and frizzy. This is even worse for hair damaged for various reasons, for example, exposure to the elements, poor nutrition, mechanical treatments (e.g., brushing), styling treatments using chemicals, dyeing, heat, conditioning, etc.

[0006] In addition, viscosity or thickness and consistency can have an impact on consumer preferences with regard to ease of application and distribution on hair or skin or the sensation provided by the product.

[0007] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental considerations in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to meet these environmental concerns. In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of materials of natural origin, and more specifically of plant origin.

[0008] In view of the problems described above and consumer need, the inventors of the present invention have produced a hair cosmetic composition comprising (a) at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide and (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide, which offers several beneficial attributes to the hair, including a conditioning film, cleansing, good sensory properties such as a smooth feel, good coating, good detangling (with the fingers), good volume regulation, less frizz (offering good sensory and visual attributes), and other properties. Furthermore, when used in a shampoo, the hair cosmetic composition produces a higher lather and is gentler on the hair fiber.

[0009] Thus, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention is capable of obtaining the above properties due to the combination of (a) at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide and (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide. Summary of the invention

[0010] The inventors of the present invention have overcome the problems of the prior art and have produced a hair cosmetic composition comprising (a) at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide and (b) at least one alkoxylated fatty amide, which offers several beneficial attributes to the hair, including a conditioning film, cleansing, good sensory properties such as a smooth feel to the hair, good coating, good detangling (with the fingers), good volume regulation, less frizz (offering good sensory and visual attributes), and good viscosity properties. Furthermore, the hair cosmetic composition exhibits abundant lather and great softness.

[0011] The present invention also relates to the use of the hair care composition to manufacture a product for cleansing, improving the smooth feel and revitalizing hair.

[0012] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of desirable embodiments which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] The hair care composition of the present invention comprises: a. at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide; b. at least one alkoxylated fatty amide; and c. optionally at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside.

[0014] In a preferred embodiment, at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide is lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide, sunfloweroyl methyl 13 glucamide, methylglucamide oleyl oleate, methylglucamide stearyl stearate, methylglucamide tocopheryl succinate, or mixtures thereof.

[0015] In a preferred embodiment, the amount of at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide of the invention ranges from about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 0.3% to about 7.0% by weight, from about 0.4% to about 5.0% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 3.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] In a preferred embodiment, at least one alkoxylated fatty amide is PEG-4 rapeseed amide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, PEG-3 cocamide, PEG-4 stearamide, PEG-50 tallow amide, or mixtures thereof.

[0017] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one alkoxylated fatty amide of the invention ranges from about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 0.3% to about 6.0% by weight, from about 0.5% to about 5.0% by weight, or from about 0.5% to about 3.0% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may further include additional ingredients such as solvent, anionic surfactant, non-ionic surfactant, cationic polymer, anionic polymer, organic acids and salts, silicone, ethylene glycol ester, pH corrector, among others.

[0019] The hair cosmetic composition of the invention is preferably in the form of a shampoo, rinse-off treatments, conditioners and leave-in treatments.

[0020] In one embodiment, the pH of the present hair cosmetic composition ranges from about 4.0 to about 7.0, for example from about 5.0 to about 6.5, or from about 5.0 to about 6.0, or from about 5.0 to about 5.6, including the intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0021] In a preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises: a. from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10.0% by weight of at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide selected from lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, or mixtures thereof; and b. of about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide selected from PEG-4 rapeseed amide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide or mixtures thereof;

[0022] in which the weights are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0023] Another preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises: a. of approximately 0.3% to approximately 3.0% by weight of at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide selected from lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, or mixtures thereof; and b. of about 0.3% to about 6.0% by weight of at least one alkylated fatty amide selected from PEG-4 rapeseed amide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, or mixtures thereof;

[0024] in which the weights are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] In yet another preferred embodiment, the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises: a. of approximately 0.5% to approximately 1.0% by weight of at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide selected from lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, or mixtures thereof; and b. of about 0.5% to about 3.0% by weight of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide selected from PEG-4 rapeseed amide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, or mixtures thereof;

[0026] in which the weights are relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0027] In another preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of the hair cosmetic composition for the manufacture of a product for improving the smooth feel and revitalizing hair.

[0028] In another preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a method for improving the smooth feel of hair, comprising applying an effective amount of the hair cosmetic composition of the invention to the hair. According to the present invention, smooth / soft-to-the-touch hair constitutes the attribute related to the cosmetic property of the hair surface state (wet or dry) whereby the hair is smooth when fingers glide easily through it without perceptible sticking or friction.

[0029] The hair cosmetic composition of the present invention offers several beneficial attributes to the hair, including a revitalizing film, cleansing, good sensory properties such as a smooth feel, good coating, good detangling (with the fingers), good volume regulation, and less frizz (offering good sensory and visual attributes). Furthermore, the This hair cosmetic composition features abundant lather and great softness.

[0030] In addition, the hair cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as a daily hair product, such as a shampoo for all hair types. Terms

[0031] As used herein, the expression "at least" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0032] Except in the functional examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified in all cases by the term "approximately", meaning to within + / - 10% of the number indicated.

[0033] As used herein, all provided ranges are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate subranges. Thus, a range from 1 to 5 specifically includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as subranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc. All ranges and values ​​disclosed herein are inclusive and combinable. For example, any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value for deducing a subrange, etc.

[0034] As used herein, the expressions "and their mixtures", "and one of their mixtures", "and their combinations", "and one of their combinations", "or their mixtures", "or one of their mixtures", "or their combinations", and "or one of their combinations" are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as "A, B, C, D, or their mixtures", means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, from B, from C, from D, from A+B, from A+B+C, from A+D, from A+C+D, etc., without limitation on the variations thereof. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any combination thereof. N-METHYLALKYL GLUCAMIDE

[0035] According to the present invention, n-methyl glucamides are mild (non-ionic) surfactants having good foaming and cleansing properties.

[0036] Such an ingredient also provides hair repair, cleansing and revitalization.

[0037] Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from acyl-glucamides, in particular those having a hydrocarbon chain containing 4 to 30 carbon atoms (including the carbon atom of the carbonyl group -C(O)-), preferably 6 to 22, more preferably 6 to 20, and even more preferably 6 to 14.

[0038] More preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from those of the following general formula (A):

[0039] where:

[0040] - The Gl-N group represents a glucamine, N being the nitrogen atom of the glucamine,

[0041] - Ri represents an alkyl radical in CrC2, preferably methyl,

[0042] - R2 represents a linear or branched C3-C29 alkyl or alkenyl radical, preferably in C5-C2i, more preferably in C5-C19, and even more preferably in C5-Ci3, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH.

[0043] Even more preferentially:

[0044] - The Gl-N group represents a glucamine, N being the nitrogen atom of the glucamine,

[0045] - Ri represents a methyl group, and

[0046] - R2 represents a linear C3-C29 alkyl radical, preferably in C5-C2i, more preferentially in C5-Ci9, even more preferentially in C5-Ci3, and even better in C7-C9, and optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH.

[0047] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise at least two glucamide compounds, more preferably two glucamide compounds.

[0048] In the context of the present invention, the terms "glucamide" and "glucamine" encompass all their respective isomers.

[0049] Among the glucamide compounds used in the invention, the following may be mentioned, alone or in combination:

[0050] - myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide, sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide,

[0051] - methylglucamide oleate, methylglucamide stearate, tocopheryl succinate of methylglucamide.

[0052] Particularly preferred are glucamide compounds selected from, alone or in combination, myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide and sunfloweroyl methyl glucamide.

[0053] Among mixtures of glucamide compounds, lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide and capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide are particularly preferred.

[0054] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide.

[0055] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) in the composition ranges from about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, from about 0.1% to about 7.0% by weight, 0.3% to about 6.0% by weight, from about 0.4% to about 4.0% by weight, from about 0.5% to 1.0% including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. ALCOXYLATED FAT AMIDE

[0056] In the present invention, the alkoxylated fatty amides are polyethylene glycol (PEG) fatty amides. Such ingredients are nonionic surfactants having solubilizing properties. Preferably, the alkoxylated fatty amide according to the present invention is rapeseed PEG-4 amide.

[0057] The polyethylene glycol (PEG) fatty amides can be selected from the general structure above:

[0058] RCONH(CH2CH2O)nH

[0059] where:

[0060] - R represents the chain of fatty acids, which can vary in length and saturation.

[0061] - n represents the number of ethylene oxide motifs added to the amide.

[0062] In the present invention, preferably R = Ci7H33 and n = 2.5.

[0063] According to the invention, the weight ratio of the total n-methyl glucamide(s) content to the total alkoxylated fatty amide(s) content is less than or equal to 1.

[0064] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of N-methyl glucamide(s) to the total content of alkoxylated fatty amide(s) is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1, better between 0.01 and 0.09, even better less than or equal to 0.08, or between 0.05 and 0.1. ALKYL(POLY)GLUCOSIDE(S)

[0065] The composition according to the invention optionally comprises at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside. The alkyl(poly)glycosides may be selected from those of the following general formula:

[0066] RiO-(R2O)t-(G)v

[0067] where:

[0068] - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0069] - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0070] - G represents a sugar fraction containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0071] -1 designates a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

[0072] - v designates a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0073] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside formulas are compounds described above in which:

[0074] - Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical, containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms,

[0075] - R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

[0076] -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

[0077] - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

[0078] - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, can range from 1 to 15, from preference from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0079] The glucoside bonds between the sugar fractions are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.

[0080] Advantageously, alkyl(poly)glycosides are alkyl(poly)glucosides, such as (C6-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides. (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glucosides, in particular coco-glucosides, decylglucosides, and caprylyl / caprylyl glucosides, are especially preferred.

[0081] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE ®(818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70, or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.

[0082] More preferably, alkyl(poly)glycosides are chosen from (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)glycosides; even more preferably, from (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycosides; even better, from (C8-Ci8)alkyl(poly)glycosides such as coco-glucosides, decylglucosides, caprylyl / capryl glucosides, lauryl glucosides, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one alkyl(poly)glucoside selected from the (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides; even more preferably, from the (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glucosides; even better, from the (C8-Ci8)alkyl(poly)glucosides such as coco-glucosides, decylglucosides, caprylyl / capryl glucosides, lauryl glucosides, and mixtures thereof.

[0084] Preferably, the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from approximately 0.01 to approximately 10.0% by weight, more preferably from approximately 0.05 to approximately 5.0% by weight, and even more preferably from approximately 0.1 at about 3.0% by weight, or even better, about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] Preferably, the total content of (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3.0% by weight, even better from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] Preferably, the total content of (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3.0% by weight, even better from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Preferably, the total content of (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)glucoside(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3.0% by weight, even better from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] Preferably, the total content of (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.01 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.1 to about 3.0% by weight, even better from about 0.1 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] According to the invention, the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol is less than or equal to 1.

[0090] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and most particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

[0091] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)glyco side(s) to the total content of C6-C40 fatty acid monoester(s) (preferably C8-C30) and (poly)glycerol is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and most particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

[0092] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glyco side(s) to the total content of C6-C40 fatty acid monoester(s) and glycerol is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and most particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.

[0093] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)gluco side(s) to the total content of C6-C40 fatty acid monoester(s) (preferably C8-C30) and glycerol is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and most particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

[0094] In addition to the essential components described above, the composition of the invention may further comprise additional ingredients as described below. Anionic surfactant(s)

[0095] An anionic surfactant, as used in this description, means a surfactant, preferably non-silicone, which contains only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0096] In the present description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example, medium, pH) and does not contain a cationic charge.

[0097] Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants that may be used include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycosides-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl acids aryl ether carboxylic acids and salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; or the unsalted forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group.Some of these compounds can be oxyethylated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs.

[0098] C6-C24 alkyl monoester salts of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

[0099] When the anionic surfactant(s) is / are in salt form, it / they may be chosen in particular from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium salt.

[0100] Examples of anionic surfactants include fatty acid soaps such as soap base, sodium laurate, or sodium palmitate; alkyl sulfate ester salts having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium lauryl sulfate or potassium lauryl sulfate; alkyl ether sulfate ester salts such as polyoxyethylene (POE)-triethanolamine lauryl sulfate or sodium lauryl sulfate POE; N-acyl sarcosinates such as sodium lauroylsarcosinate; fatty acid amide sulfonates having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium N-myristyl-N-methyltaurate, sodium methyl coco oil fatty acid taurate (also called sodium methyl cocoyltaurate), or methyl sodium lauryltaurate, phosphate ester salts such as sodium oleyl ether phosphate POE or stearyl ether phosphate POE, sulfosuccinates such as sodium di(2-ethylhexyl)sulfosuccinate,monolauroyl monoethanolamide sodium polyoxyethylene sulfosuccinate or sodium lauryl polypropylene glycol sulfosuccinate, alkyl benzene sulfonates such as sodium linear dodecyl benzene sulfonate, triethanolamine linear dodecyl benzene sulfonate or linear dodecyl benzene sulfonate, N-acyl glutamates such as monosodium N-lauroyl glutamate, disodium N-stearoyl glutamate or monosodium N-myristyl-L-glutamate, N-acyl glycinates such as potassium N-cocoyl glycinate or sodium N-stearoyl glycinate, fatty acid sulfate ester salts having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as sodium hydrogenated coconut oil fatty acid glyceryl sulfate, sulfonated oils such as Turkish red oil, carboxylates of POE-alkyl ether, POE-alkylally ether carboxylates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, fatty acid ester sulfonates having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,secondary alcohol sulfate ester salts, alkyloyl amide sulfate ester salts of fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, sodium lauroyl ethanolamide succinate, ditethanolamine N-palmitoyl aspartate, and sodium casein.

[0101] In particular, the anionic surfactants are selected from sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (sodium laureth sulfate), lauryl ether sulfosuccinate of Sodium, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (ammonium laureth sulfate), sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauryl isethionate, lauryl ether carboxylic acid, and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate, or mixtures thereof. Preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO (where n is from 1 to 4, in particular n is 1 or 2), sodium lauryl ether sulfosuccinate (n) EO (where n is from 1 to 4, in particular n is 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (n) EO (where n is from 1 to 4, in particular n is 3), or mixtures thereof.

[0102] In one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarconisate, sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dodecylbenzol sulfonate and / or triethanolamine dodecylbenzol sulfonate or mixtures thereof, in particular the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate, ammonium lauryl ether sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from about 0.1 to about 25.0% by weight, more preferably from about 1 to about 20.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 2 to about 15.0% by weight, and ideally from about 5 to about 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-ionic surfactant(s)

[0104] Non-limiting examples of additional useful non-ionic surfactants in the present invention include, for example,

[0105] - alcohols, α-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain including 8 to 40 carbon atoms and in particular 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular, oxyethylenated alcohols comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8 to C40 alkyl chain, comprising 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably 2 to 50 and more particularly 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and including one or two fatty chains;

[0106] - ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates with fatty alcohols;

[0107] - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably containing 2 to 30 oxide units ethylene,

[0108] - polyglycerol fatty amides including on average 1 to 5 and in particular 1.5 with 4 glycerol groups;

[0109] - ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan (or oxyethylenated sorbitan ester), of preferably featuring 2 to 40 ethylene oxide patterns;

[0110] - sucrose fatty acid esters;

[0111] - polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylated, having 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

[0112] - amine oxides such as (CiO-Ci4 alkyl)amine oxides or N- oxides (C10-C14 acyl)aminopropylmorpholine.

[0113] Non-ionic surfactants can range from about 0.1 to about 20.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2 to about 10.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 0.3 to about 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants

[0114] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants useful for the invention may include amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention, which may be derived from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, wherein the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These amine derivatives contain at least one anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate group.

[0115] Specific examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants include alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, as defined above, compounds having the following structures (III) and (IV) may also be mentioned:

[0117] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X (III)

[0118] where:

[0119] - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from RaCOOH, of preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra representing a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0120] - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group;

[0121] - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

[0122] - M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal, a metal alkaline earth metals, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

[0123] - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such that halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or M+ and X are absent.

[0124] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV)

[0125] where:

[0126] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0127] - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0128] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2- COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

[0129] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z' ;

[0130] - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline metal earthy, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0131] - Ra' represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from Ra'-COOH, of preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, Ra' being preferably an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, or an unsaturated Cp alkyl group.

[0132] These compounds are listed in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0133] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

[0134] Compounds of formula (V) may also be used:

[0135] Ra”-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n’-N(Rd)(Re) (V)

[0136] where:

[0137] - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H, or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”;

[0138] - Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical or hydroxyalkyl in C1 to C4;

[0139] - Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline metal- earthy, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0140] - Ra" represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of Ra"-COOH, of preferably found in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and

[0141] - n and n' are, independently of each other, integers ranging from 1 to 3.

[0142] Among the compounds of formula (V), we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

[0143] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0144] Among the aforementioned amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof, are advantageously used.

[0145] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, they are selected from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0146] Better still, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is / are chosen from among the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, in particular cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0147] Preferably, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) in the composition ranges from about 0.1 to about 15.0% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 10.0% by weight, even more preferably from about 1 to about 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polymer(s)

[0148] Non-limiting examples of polymer(s) according to the hair cosmetic composition of the present invention may be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers, preferably anionic polymer(s) and cationic polymer(s).

[0149] The anionic thickening agent may be selected from polyacrylate-3, commercially known as Viscophobe DB-100 and sold by The Dow Chemical Company; carbomers, commercially known as Carbopol polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc.; crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate CiO-3o polymers, commercially known as Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 polymers and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc.; crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate CiO-3o polymers such as Carbopol® Ultrez 20 polymer and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc.; AMP acrylate / allyl methacrylate copolymer, commercially known as Fixate G-100 polymer and sold by Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc.; the polymer crosslinked polyacrylate-6 such as Sepimax™ Zen sold by Seppic, and a methacrylic acid / acrylate copolymer crosslinked ethyl, also known as aqueous dispersion acrylate copolymer, such as the slightly crosslinked, alkali-swellable acrylate polymer known as INCI acrylates copolymer and sold by Lubrizol, under the trade name CARBOPOL Aqua SF-1 as an aqueous dispersion comprising about 30% by weight of total solids or active material.

[0150] In various embodiments, the thickening agents may be selected from hydrophilic thickeners, for example, cellulose polymers and gums, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as those sold under the trade name Carbopol® (CTFA name: carbomer) by Goodrich, polyacrylamides, acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers sold as their sodium salt, such as those sold under the trade name Reten® by Hercules, and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids such as those sold under the trade name Hydagen F® by Henkel, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, for example, poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) such as those sold under the trade name Hostacerin® AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) by Clariant,crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, for example in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, such as those sold under the trade name Sepigel™ 305 (CTFA name: 10 Polyacrylamidc / Ci 1 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the trade name Simugel™ 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by Seppic, polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of the Pemulen™ type, associative polymers, for example PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer such as those sold under the trade name ACULYN™ 46 by Rohm & Haas, the copolymer of steareth-100 / PEG136 / HDI such as those sold under the trade name Rheolate® FX 1100 by Elementis, and mixtures thereof.

[0151] Non-limiting examples of useful cationic revitalizing polymers in the invention include, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as polyquatemium-10; cationic gum derivatives such as gum derivatives, including in particular guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride; diallyldimethylammonium chloride (“poly-DADMA”) and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (“poly-MAPTAC”) polymer derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0152] Non-limiting examples of poly-DADMA and poly-MAPTAC include polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, the polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, and mixtures thereof.

[0153] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises cationic polymers known by the INCI names polyquaternium-7, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] The cationic polymer is in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 4.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.05% to about 3.0% by weight, and most preferably from about 0.05% to about 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Organic acids and salts

[0155] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise a combination of organic acids and / or salts, preferably salicylic acid and sodium benzoate.

[0156] Non-limiting examples of organic acids include salicylic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid and glycolic acid.

[0157] Non-limiting examples of salts include sodium benzoate, sodium chloride, sodium sorbate, potassium chloride, sodium lactate, potassium lactate, sodium salicylate, sodium carbonate, magnesium sulfate and trisodium phosphate.

[0158] Organic acids and / or salts are included in an amount ranging from about 0.2% to about 2.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicone(s)

[0159] Non-limiting examples of silicones include, but are not limited to, polyorganosiloxanes, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, polyestersiloxanes, or mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples include dimethicone, cyclomethicone (cyclopentasiloxane), amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl siloxy silicate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, or mixtures thereof.

[0160] In some cases, the compositions include one or more silicones selected from the group consisting of polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino-functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), nonionic dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, nitrogen-containing compounds of dimethicone copolyol quatemium, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, or mixtures thereof.

[0161] Hair cosmetic compositions may include one or more silicone oils, for example, one or more non-phenylated silicone oils and / or one or more phenylated silicone oils. The silicone oil is preferably nonpolar. A "nonpolar silicone oil" is intended to designate a silicone oil that does not include any ionic or ionizable groups, and preferably does not include any oxyalkylated (C2-C4) (preferably oxyethylene, oxypropylene) or glycerol motifs.

[0162] Representative examples of non-volatile, non-phenylened silicone oils that may be cited include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinylmethyl methicones; and also silicones modified by aliphatic groups and / or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol, and / or amine groups. It should be noted that "dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to poly(dimethylsiloxane) (chemical name), which is particularly preferred in certain cases.

[0163] The non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oil is preferably selected from non-volatile dimethicone oils. These oils may in particular be selected from the following non-volatile oils:

[0164] - polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS);

[0165] - PDMS comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl groups or alkoxy, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0166] - PDMS comprising aliphatic groups or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups,

[0167] - polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; and

[0168] - polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, or mixtures thereof.

[0169] Preferably, these non-volatile non-phenyl silicone oils are selected from polydimethylsiloxanes, alkyl dimethicones and also PDMS comprising aliphatic groups, in particular C2-C24 alkyl groups, and / or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

[0170] The non-phenylated silicone oil may be selected in particular from silicones of the following formula: (XVIII)

[0171] in which:

[0172] - Rb R2, R5, and R6, which may be identical or different, are chosen independently among alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

[0173] - R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, are chosen independently among the alkyl radicals containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a vinyl radical, an amine radical, or a hydroxyl radical,

[0174] - X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine radical, and

[0175] - n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound, in particular whose viscosity at 25 °C is between 9 centistokes (cSt) and 800,000 (cSt).

[0176] Examples of non-phenylated, non-volatile silicone oils that can be used according to the invention include those for which:

[0177] - the substituents Ri at R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 500,000 cSt;

[0178] - the substituents Ri at R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 60,000 cSt;

[0179] - the substituents Ri at R6 and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity is 100 cSt or 350 cSt;

[0180] - the substituents Ri to R6 represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group, and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt.

[0181] Silicones and / or silicone oils are included in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.3% to about 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ethylene glycol ester

[0182] The hair cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one ethylene glycol ester, preferably an ethylene glycol and stearic acid diester, an ethylene glycol and stearic acid ester, an ethylene glycol and palmitic acid ester, an ethylene glycol and lauric acid ester.

[0183] The usual structure of ethylene glycol esters can be represented as follows:

[0184] R-CO-O-CH2CH2-O-CO-R'

[0185] where:

[0186] - R represents the fraction of organic acid, which can vary depending on the ester specifically trained.

[0187] - CO represents the carbonyl group of the ester.

[0188] - O represents the oxygen atom linking the ethylene glycol molecule.

[0189] - CH2CH2 represents the ethylene glycol motif.

[0190] Ethylene glycol esters are included in an amount ranging from about 0.3% to about 5.0% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Solvents

[0191] A cosmetically acceptable solvent comprises water or a mixture of water and at least one cosmetically acceptable organic solvent. Examples of organic solvents include, but are not limited to, monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, and glycerin.The organic solvents for use in the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

[0192] The total amount of solvent may range from about 0.1% to about 95.0%, such as from about 0.5% to about 30.0% or such as from about 1.0% to about 20.0% by weight, or from about 50.0% to 80.0% or such as from about 60.0% to 90.0% relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. Other additional ingredients

[0193] In addition to the additional ingredients mentioned above, other additional ingredients may be presented in the hair composition of the present invention such as any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient or carrier, which may be chosen in particular from perfume / fragrance, preservatives, antioxidants, active agents such as anti-dandruff agents, vitamins, fillers and mixtures thereof.

[0194] The quantity of additional ingredients and other supplementary ingredients may range from about 0.1% to about 40.0%, such as from about 0.5% to about 30.0% or such as from about 1.0% to about 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention. Viscosity

[0195] The viscosity of the composition according to the invention was measured in centipoise (cP) at 25 degrees Celsius using a Brookfield viscometer. Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate model and conditions for the sample being measured. The composition according to the invention preferably has a viscosity of approximately 1,755 to 26,640, and more preferably, from about 15,000 to 17,000 cP at 25 degrees Celsius using a TE spindle at 12 rpm

[0196] The compositions of the present invention may be transparent, semi-transparent or opaque, and their viscosities may vary but may be similar to or greater than those of a conventional cleansing shampoo.

[0197] MANUFACTURING PROCESS FOR HAIR COSMETIC COMPOSITION EXAMPLES Example A

[0198] The appropriate compositions of the present invention are, according to Examples A1 to A7, and composition C1 is a comparative example, as follows in Table 1:

[0199] [Tables] FUNCTION INGREDIENT Al A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 Cl Additional components PERFUME; ORGANIC ACID, ORGANIC SALT, pH ADJUSTER, SALT 1.88 2 1.8 84 1.88 2 1.8 82 1.88 2 1.8 85 1.8 82 1.8 82 Alkyl polyglucoside COCO-GLUCOSIDE 0.26 0 0.2 60 0.26 0 - 0.26 0 - 0.3 28 0.2 60 N-methylalkyl glucamide LAUROYL / MYRI STOYL METHYL GLUCAMIDE 0.37 1 0.4 58 0.37 1 0.3 71 0.37 1 0.4 78 0.3 71 - Surfactants AMPHOTEREAL AND ANIONIC SURFACTANTS 8.00 3 8.0 03 8.67 9.0 91 8.67 8.67 8.67 8.67 Cationic polymer GUAR CHLORIDE HYDROX γ-PROPYLTRIM ONIUM 0.29 5 0.2 95 0.29 5 0.2 95 0.19 7 0.1 97 0.1 97 0.2 95 Alkyl fatty amide PEG-4 RAPESEED AMIDE 1.01 2 1.0 12 1.13 2 1.1 32 1.24 2 1.4 72 1.2 42 - Anionic polymer CARBOMER 0.30 0 0.3 00 0.30 0 0.3 00 0.30 0 0.3 00 0.2 50 0.300 Ethylene glycol and stearic acid diester GLYCOL DISTEARATE 0.50 1 0.5 01 0.50 1 0.5 01 0.50 1 0.5 01 0.5 01 0.5 01 Solvent WATER QSP QS QSP QSP QS QS QS 100 P 1 100 P 1 100 P 1 P 1 P 1 00 00 00 00 00

[0200] Table 1

[0201] In compositions A1 to A7, the additional components include fragrance, sodium benzoate, salicylic acid, sodium chloride, and citric acid, and the surfactants include cocamidopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, and sodium lauryl sulfate. Compositions A1 to A7 in Table 1 were prepared at room temperature by dispersing the anionic polymer in water (qs) and stirring until hydrated. The anionic surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate), the alkyl polyglucoside (coco glucoside), and the N-methyl alkyl glucamide (lauryl / lauroyl methyl glucamide) were then added to the solution and stirred for up to 10 minutes. The cationic polymer was dispersed in a secondary tank with 20% water and added to the main tank. The amphoteric surfactant (cocoamidopropyl betaine) and the alkylated fatty amide were then added to the solution along with other optional ingredients.Cl was manufactured in the same way but without glucamide and without rapeseed amide. Example B

[0202] The following compositions having the formulas presented in Examples B1 to B4, as shown in Table 2, were manufactured:

[0203] [Tables2] Ingredients Class B1 B2 B3 B4 Alkyl polyglucoside COCO-GLUCOSIDE 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 N-methylalkyl glucoside CAPRYLOYL / CAPROYL METHYL GLUCAMIDE - - - 1.00 N-methylalkyl glucoside LAUROYL / MYRISTOYL METHYL GLUCAMIDE - 0.25 - - LAUROYL METHYL GLUCAMIDE (ET) ETHANOL 0.50 - - - N-methylalkyl glucose lauryl betaine lauryl betaine (and) lauryl / myristyl methyl glucoamide - - 2.10 - Additional ingredients: Organic salt, organic acid, salt, pH adjuster 1.51 1.52 1.33 1.72 Surfactant: Amphoteric, non-ionic and anionic surfactants 9.83 9.83 9.83 9.83 Cationic polymer: Hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride 0.38 0.38 0.38 0.38 Ester: Triethyl citrate 0.50 0.90 0.50 0.50 Anionic polymer CARBOMER 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.10 Ethylene glycol and stearic acid diester GLYCOL DISTEARATE 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0204] Table 2

[0205] In compositions B1 to B4, the surfactants contain cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauryl sulfate, coco-betaine and glyceryl oleate, and the additional ingredients may contain one or more of the following: sodium benzoate, citric acid, sodium chloride and salicylic acid.

[0206] Compositions B1 to B4 were prepared according to the following process: first, the anionic surfactant was dispersed in water (qs) by stirring until hydrated. The anionic surfactant (sodium lauryl sulfate) and the N-methyl alkyl glucamide (lauryl / lauroyl methyl glucamide) were then added to the solution and stirred until completely homogenized. The cationic polymer was dispersed in a secondary tank with 20% water and added to the main tank. In another secondary tank, glyceryl oleate, previously melted in an oven at 45-50 °C, was added mixed with the amphoteric surfactant (cocoamidopropyl betaine) and Alkyl polyglucoside (coco glucoside). The secondary tank was added to the main tank along with other optional ingredients.

[0207] To evaluate the cosmetic properties of the surface condition of a strand of wet and dry hair, prior to applying the shampoos to the samples, the samples were washed with a standard deep-cleansing solution without conditioning agents according to the following procedure: 0.4 g / g of hair, with no processing time. The shampoos to be evaluated were then applied to the samples according to the following procedure: 0.4 g / g of hair, with a processing time of 1 minute, followed by rinsing. The type of samples used was bleached Caucasian hair. Six samples were evaluated for each shampoo.

[0208] Each wick was attached to a force sensor connected to the upper moving crosshead of an Ametek Lloyd Instruments LSI digital materials tester with a tensile-compression device using Nexygen Plus software. Each wick was then placed between two cylindrical neoprene rollers (for the WET evaluation) or foam scrapers (for the DRY evaluation). A dead mass (200 g) (suspended under vacuum) maintained constant pressure between the two rollers or scrapers. The upward vertical displacement of the device tip was controlled by the moving crosshead, and the frictional force between the wick and the two scrapers was measured as a function of displacement by the sensor.

[0209] The higher the measured friction force, the rougher the hair surface (i.e., the less smooth it is). The reference was a commercial shampoo containing silicone and a cationic polymer, with the following ingredients listed on its label:

[0210] SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE, COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE, DIMETHICONE (and) AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-10 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (and) STEARETH-6 (and) TRIDECETH-3, GLYCOL DISTEARATE, COCO-BETAINE, PARFUM, COCAMIDE MEA, HEXYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM CHLORIDE, SODIUM BENZOATE, SODIUM CHLORIDE, CARBOMER, SALICYLIC ACID, GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, CITRIC ACID.

[0211] The results are presented in Table C:

[0212] [Tables3] Friction force (mJ) Se c Friction force (mJ) Hu mide B1 95.57 + 10.61 110.13 + 8.47 B2 110.65 + 5.70 107.20 + 8.45 B3 105.4 + 5.58 74.43 + 6.75 B4 105.89 ± 11.58 91.73 ± 10.51 Reference 164.39 ± 13.95 162.13+12.28 Table C#

[0213] This example shows that the compositions of the present invention exhibited a lower friction force, both on dry and wet hair, compared to that exhibited by a commercial reference shampoo, which indicates a better hair surface quality (i.e. a better smooth feel). Example C

[0214] The objective of this process was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of the surface condition of a strand of wet and dry hair.

[0215] The samples were washed according to the same procedure in Example B, with the difference that the samples used were natural Caucasian hair and each shampoo was applied to 3 samples.

[0216] Each drill bit was attached to a force sensor connected to the upper moving cross member of the tensile-compression device. It was then placed between two cylindrical neoprene scrapers (for the WET evaluation) or foam scrapers (for the DRY evaluation). A dead mass (suspended under vacuum) maintained constant pressure between the two scrapers. The upward vertical movement of the drill bit was controlled by the moving cross member, and the friction force between the drill bit and the two scrapers was measured as a function of the displacement by the sensor.

[0217] The higher the measured friction force, the more "rough" the surface condition of the hair (the less smooth it is).

[0218] The formulas were prepared according to Example A, but with varying amounts of glucamide and rapeseed PEG-4 amide as shown in Table D. The reference formula Cl, which is the commercial reference used in Example A. The process of Example B was repeated on hair samples containing each of the formulas listed in Table D.

[0219] All formulas containing Glucamide and / or Rapeseed PEG-4 amide resulted in an increase in smoothness compared to the reference without these ingredients. Formulas containing Glucamide 0.38% + PEG-4 4.6% and Glucamide 0.38% + PEG-4 2.8% exhibited a statistically significant improvement in smoothness compared to the reference and to formulas containing Rapeseed PEG-4 amide and Glucamide alone, respectively.

[0220] NOTE: The formulations below contain the same ingredients as in Example A, but with varying amounts of PEG-4 rapeseed amide and glucamide. The manufacturing process for these compositions is the same as in Example A with the addition of PEG-4 rapeseed amide and Glucamide to the composition Cl.

[0221] [Tables4] Formula: Lauroyl / Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide, PEG-4 rapeseed amide. Friction force (N) Cl (Reference) 0.00 0.0 1.398 + 0.007 DI 0.38 0.0 1.006 + 0.071 D2 0.76 0.0 1.047 + 0.089 D3 1.15 0.0 1.098 + 0.027 D4 0.00 0.9 1.049 + 0.112 D5 0.00 1.8 0.961 + 0.109 D6 0.00 2.8 0.949 + 0.005 D7 0.38 0.9 1.007 + 0.052 D8 0.76 1.8 1.131 + 0.020 D9 0.38 1.8 1.109 + 0.006 D10 0.76 0.9 1.033 + 0.004 DU 0.38 28 0.870 + 0.036 D12 1.15 09 1.011 + 0.037 D13 0.38 05 1.199 + 0.086 D14 1.91 09 1.338 + 0.017 D15 0.38 46 0.825 + 0.052 D16 0.19 09 1.151 + 0.065 Table D#

[0222] This example shows that all formulas containing different ranges of rapeseed glucamide and PEG-4 amide had a better smooth feel than the comparative formulations that did not include any of these ingredients. Example D

[0223] The objective of the test was to study the performance of the inventive compositions A1 to A7 in Example 1 on sensory attributes compared to a comparative reference composition having these ingredients listed on the label: aqua (water), sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, glycol distearate, sodium hydroxide, sodium benzoate, citric acid, cocamide MEA, dimethicone, carbomer, coco-betaine, salicylic acid, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hexylene glycol, amodimethicone, trideceth-10, benzyl salicylate, hexyl cinnamal, benzyl alcohol, limonene, PEG-100 stearate, coumarin, alpha-isomethyl ionone, argania kernel oil, phenoxyethanol, citronellol, sterol-6, trideceth-3, fumaric acid, hydrolyzed wheat protein with hydroxypropyltrimonium, acetic acid, hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed maize protein, hydrolyzed soy protein, parfum (fragrance).

[0224] The performance of several attributes was evaluated with a specific gesture on wet hair by trained experts in a blind trial, using a rating scale ranging from parity to slight difference (< or >), moderate difference ("or"), and large difference ("< or >"). For this evaluation, the experts applied the products to half a head simultaneously, with a prototype and a bench on either side. The results in Table E represent the average of the comparative trials for each formula against a commercial reference, in which the hair of 6 volunteers was tested for each formula. The attributes of detangling, smoothness, coating, and softness were evaluated on wet hair after application and rinsing of the shampoos. The experts assessed the hair based on its visual and tactile properties, compared to the properties of hair treated with the reference.

[0225] The median score for each formula was calculated as shown in Table E:

[0226] [Tables5] ATTRIBUTES A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 Detangling > > > > = = > Smooth feel > > > > = > = Coating > > > = > > > Softness = > > > > = = Table E#

[0227] The results indicated:

[0228] - improved detangling for formulas Al, A2, A3, A4 and A7;

[0229] - improved soft touch for formulas Al, A2, A3, A4 and A6;

[0230] - improved coating for formulas Al, A2, A3, A5, A6 and A7;

[0231] - improved softness for formulas A2, A3, A4 and A5.

Claims

Demands

1. Hair cosmetic composition comprising: (a) 0.1% to 10.0% by weight of at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide; and (b) 0.1% to 10.0% by weight of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide, relative to the total weight of the composition; (c) optionally 0.01% to 10.0% of at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide is lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, or mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one alkoxylated fatty amide is PEG-4 rapeseed amide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, or mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide ranges from 0.3% by weight to 7.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4% by weight to 5.0% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide ranges from 0.3% by weight to 6.0% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 5.0% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to claims 1 to 5, wherein the weight ratio of the total content of N-methyl glucamide(s) to the total content of alkoxylated fatty amide(s) is less than 1.0, more preferably less than or equal to 0.1, better between 0.01 and 0.09, still better less than or equal to 0.08, or between 0.05 and 0.

1.

7. Composition according to claims 1 to 6, further comprising from 0.1% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight of additional ingredients, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claims 1 to 7, comprising: (a) from 0.5% by weight to 1.0% by weight of at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide selected from lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, or mixtures thereof; and (b) from 0.5% by weight to 3.0% by weight of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide selected from PEG-4 rapeseed amide, PEG-50 hydrogenated palmamide, or mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Use of a hair cosmetic composition comprising, on the basis of the total weight of the composition: (a) from 0.1% by weight to 10.0% by weight of at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide; and (b) from 0.1% by weight to 10.0% by weight of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide; wherein it is intended for the manufacture of a product to improve the smooth feel and revitalization of hair.

10. A method for improving the smooth feel of hair comprising applying to the hair an effective amount of a cosmetic hair composition, said hair composition comprising, on the basis of the total weight of the composition: (a) from 0.1% by weight to 10.0% by weight of at least one N-methylalkyl glucamide; and (b) from 0.1% by weight to 10.0% by weight of at least one alkoxylated fatty amide.