SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

SKINCARE AND / OR MAKEUP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, comprising the following components: (i) at least one butter of vegetable origin; (ii) at least one hydroxyalkyl-modified starch; and (iii) up to 1.5% by weight of at least one acrylate polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: SKINCARE AND / OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic method for skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] The development of formulations dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips is ongoing.

[0003] The transformation of a cosmetic composition during its application is preferable because it could provide a more pleasant sensation during use.

[0004] However, either some products intended to ensure the transformation are still not satisfactory, or some products present a problem with soaping.

[0005] It is desirable that such cosmetic compositions can deliver a desirable transformative sensation, have an anti-soap appearance and / or be stable.

[0006] Thus, there is always a need to formulate a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, particularly of the skin, which can exhibit a transformation, an anti-soap aspect and / or be stable. Summary of the invention

[0007] The inventors have now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions having the desired properties as described above.

[0008] In particular, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to formulate compositions, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, especially skin, which can exhibit a transformation, an anti-soap aspect and / or be stable.

[0009] Consequently, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising the following components: i. at least one butter of vegetable origin; ii. at least one hydroxyalkyl-modified starch; and iii. up to 1.5% by weight of at least one acrylate polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0010] The inventors have discovered that the composition according to the present invention demonstrates a transformation upon application and exhibits an anti-soaking aspect.

[0011] The inventors have further discovered that the composition according to the present invention is stable, i.e. without phase separation after being subjected to centrifugation at 25 °C, 900 rcf (or FCR, relative centrifugal force) for 1 hour.

[0012] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0013] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be presented in the following description and, in part, will emerge from the description, or can be learned through practice of the present invention. Brief description of the drawings

[0014] Implementations of the present invention will now be described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying figure, in which:

[0015] [Fig-1] [Fig. 1] shows the rating standard for soap film intensity used in the evaluation of the anti-soaking aspect. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as that commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by a person skilled in the art of the present invention, the definition described herein shall apply.

[0017] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0018] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0019] Throughout this application, the term "including" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0020] As used herein, the expression "keratinous materials" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" means all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material is the skin of the face.

[0021] The term "transformation" refers to the following phenomenon: the product (for example, in the form of a gel or an emulsion) which may even be thick, is transformed into a fluid or even water when applied to the skin, as if it were on the skin.

[0022] In the present invention, all percentages refer, unless otherwise specified, to a percentage by weight.

[0023] The composition according to the present invention comprises the following components: i. at least one butter of vegetable origin; ii. at least one hydroxyalkyl-modified starch; and iii. up to 1.5% by weight of at least one acrylate polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0024] As used herein, the term "starch" refers to a basic starch. Basic starch, as used herein, is intended to include all starches derived from any native source, any of which may be suitable for use herein. A native starch, as used herein, is a starch found in nature. Starches derived from a plant obtained by standard breeding techniques, including crossing, translocation, inversion, transformation, or any other genetic or chromosomal engineering process, to include their variations, are also suitable. In addition, starches derived from a cultivated plant from artificial mutations and variations of the above generic starches, which may be produced by known standard processes of mutation breeding, are also suitable herein.

[0025] Typical sources of starch are cereals, tubers, roots, legumes, and fruits. The native source may be waxy varieties of maize, peas, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava), arrowroot, canna, and sorghum, as well as their low- and high-amylose varieties.

[0026] As used herein, the expression "low amylose" starch is intended to include starch containing not more than about 10%, in particular not more than 5%, and more particularly not more than 2% by weight of amylose.

[0027] As used herein, the expression "high amylose" starch is intended to include starch containing at least about 50%, in particular at least about 70%, and more particularly at least about 80% by weight of amylose. Vegetable-based butters

[0028] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one butter of vegetable origin.

[0029] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" is intended to designate a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, comprising at a temperature of 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0030] Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention has a melting point not exceeding 40 °C.

[0031] Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention has a melting point of 25 °C to 40 °C.

[0032] Suitable butters are of vegetable origin.

[0033] We can mention in particular galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), sal butter, mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), tucuma butter, olive butter (Olea europaea), babassu butter, cocoa butter and sunflower butter.

[0034] Preferably, the vegetable butter is chosen from murumuru butter, cocoa butter, mango butter, and one of their combinations.

[0035] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises murumuru butter.

[0036] Murumuru butter is extracted from the seeds of Astrocaryum murumuru, also called Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter. Astrocaryum murumuru is a palm tree found, for example, in Brazil.

[0037] Advantageously, the vegetable butter is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydroxyalkyl modified starches

[0038] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one hydroxyalkyl modified starch.

[0039] Hydroxyalkyl modified starch is a modified starch in which the hydroxyl group is linked via an alkyl group such that there are 2 to 10 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. The position of the hydroxyl group is not critical and can be in the alpha to omega position. Hydroxyalkyl modified starch can also contain more than one hydroxyl group per alkyl group. In a suitable embodiment, the degree of substitution of the hydroxyalkylation is approximately 0.08 to 0.3. The degree of substitution is the average number of substituted OH groups in the starch molecule per anhydroglucose unit. The hydroxyalkylation of a starch can be induced by reacting a native starch with alkylene oxides having the appropriate number of carbon atoms, including, but not limited to, hydroxypropylation by reacting starch with propylene oxide.

[0040] Preferably, the hydroxyalkyl in the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch is a C2-C6 alkyl hydroxyl.

[0041] Preferably, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is chosen from hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and one of their combinations.

[0042] More preferably, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is chosen from hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and one of their combinations.

[0043] Hydroxyalkyl modified starch can be pregelatinized. Pregelatinization and techniques for achieving pregelatinization are known in the art and disclosed, for example, in US patents Nos. 4,465,702, 5,037,929, 5,131,953 and 5,149,799. See also Chapter XXII “Production and Use of Pregelatinized Starch”, Starch: Chemistry and Technology, Vol. III – Industrial Aspects, R.L. Whistler and E.F. Paschall, Editors, Academy Press, New York, 1967.

[0044] As used here, the term "pregelatinized" is intended to refer to swollen starch particles that have lost their birefringence and / or Maltese crosses under polarized light. These pregelatinized starch derivatives are substantially soluble in cold water without cooking.

[0045] In this context, "soluble" does not necessarily mean the formation of a true molecular solution, but can also mean a colloidal dispersion.

[0046] In a preferred embodiment, the starch is completely pregelatinized.

[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the starch molecules used in the The starches used in this invention may be unmodified or chemically or physically modified. Examples of unmodified starches include unmodified corn starch (INCI name: Zea mays starch), for example, products sold under the trade name Farmal CS®, in particular the Farmal CS 3650® product from Corn Products International. Another example is unmodified rice starch (INCI name: Oryza sativa (rice starch)), for example, the Remy DR I® product sold by Beneo-Remy.

[0048] In a preferred embodiment, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch of the present invention uses starches modified by crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of starch molecules, which thus bind together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups).

[0049] Mono-starch phosphates (of the St-O-PO-(OX)2 type), distarch phosphates (of the St-O-PO-(OX)-O-St type), or even tri-starch phosphates (of the St-O-PO-(O-St)2 type), or mixtures thereof, can be obtained, in particular, by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds. X designates, in particular, alkali metals (for example, sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example, calcium or magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts, for example Those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, or citrulline. Phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride, or sodium trimetaphosphate.

[0050] Preferably, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch consists of distarch phosphates or distarch phosphate-rich compounds, in particular hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate ethers bearing the INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, for example the products sold under the trade names Farinex VA70 C or Farmal MS 689® from Avebe Stadex; the products sold under the trade names Structure BTC®, Structure HVS®, Structure XL® or Structure Zea® from National Starch (corn distarch phosphate).

[0051] More preferably, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch made from starch will be chosen from unmodified maize starches, unmodified rice starches and maize distarch phosphates, or mixtures thereof; even more preferably, the starch will be chosen from maize distarch phosphates.

[0052] Examples of hydroxyalkyl-modified starch preferably used in the present invention may include the following:

[0053] hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (pregelatinized maize starch) marketed by Akzo Nobel under the names Structure ZEA and XL; and

[0054] modified maize starch (hydroxypropyl, pregelatinized, high amylose) marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name AMAZE.

[0055] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0056] Advantageously, the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Acrylate polymers

[0057] According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises up to 1.5% by weight of at least one acrylate polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] As used here, acrylate polymers refer to polymers comprising repeating motifs derived from at least one acrylic monomer.

[0059] Examples of acrylic monomer include (meth)acrylic acid, ethylacrylic acid, (meth)acrylate, ethylacrylate and (meth)acrylamide.

[0060] Non-limiting examples of acrylate polymers useful in the present invention include polyacrylate, polymethacrylate, polyethylacrylate, polyacrylamide, acrylic acid / acrylonitrion copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer, acrylates / aminoacrylates / PEG-20 C10-30 alkyl itaconate copolymer, acrylates / aminoacrylates copolymer, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, crosslinked acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate polymer, crosslinked polymer acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate / HEMA, acrylates / neodecanoate vinyl crosslinked polymer, acrylates / isodecanoate vinyl crosslinked polymer, acrylates / palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer,acrylic acid / acrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid copolymer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, carbomers, hydrophobically modified polyacrylates, hydrophobically modified polyacrylic acids, hydrophobically modified polyacrylamides; acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymer; acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate / acrylates copolymer, acrylates-4 crosslinked polymer, acrylates-3 crosslinked polymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, acrylates / steareth-20 itaconate copolymer; ammonium polyacrylate; sodium carbomer, polyacrylate-13, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, polyamide-3, polyquaternium-37,acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / acrylic acid copolymer, sodium acrylate / acryloyldimethyltaurate, sodium polyacrylate, starch grafted with an acrylic polymer, and any combination thereof.

[0061] For the expression "starch grafted with an acrylic polymer", the acrylic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, preferably a homopolymer.

[0062] Preferably, the acrylic polymer is sodium polyacrylate.

[0063] More preferably, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer comprises from 1% by weight to 30% by weight of starch and from 70% by weight to 99% by weight of acrylic polymer, preferably from 5% by weight to 20% by weight of starch and from 80% by weight to 95% by weight of acrylic polymer, more preferably from 8% by weight to 15% by weight of starch and from 85% by weight to 92% by weight of acrylic polymer.

[0064] In some preferred embodiments, the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used consists of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and 10% by weight of starch.

[0065] The starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used in the present invention can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked.

[0066] The number average molecular weight of the starch grafted with an acrylic polymer used is preferably greater than 1000 daltons.

[0067] Examples include starches grafted with an acrylic polymer and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 or Makimousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch).

[0068] Preferably, the acrylate polymer is selected from sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, polyacrylamide, carbomer, sodium starch polyacrylate, and one of their combinations.

[0069] More preferably, the acrylate polymer is chosen from polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, sodium starch polyacrylate and one of their combinations.

[0070] More preferably, the acrylate polymer is chosen from polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, sodium starch polyacrylate, and one of their combinations.

[0071] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one of sodium polyacrylate and sodium starch polyacrylate and at least one of polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, preferably the weight ratio of at least one of sodium polyacrylate and sodium starch polyacrylate to at least one of polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer is 0.3 or more, preferably from 0.5 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 10.

[0072] Advantageously, the acrylate polymer is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkyl polyglucosides

[0073] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one alkyl polyglycoside.

[0074] Preferably, the alkyl polyglycoside is chosen from those of formula (I):

[0075] RO-Gx (I)

[0076] in which

[0077] - R is an alkyl group in C6-C22,

[0078] - G is a glucose motif, and

[0079] - x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglycoside from 1 to 10.

[0080] For a specific alkyl polyglycoside molecule, x' can only take Integer values. In any physical sample of alkyl polyglycosides, there will generally be molecules with different x' values. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x', which may take non-integer values. In this disclosure, x' values ​​should be understood as averaged values.

[0081] The hydrophilic portion of the alkyl polyglycoside is the polyglycoside which contains from about 1 to about 10, preferably from 1 to 3 glucoside motifs on average.

[0082] The hydrophobic group on the alkyl polyglycoside is an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms on average. Preferably, the alkyl group contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably the alkyl group contains from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0083] More preferably, in formula (I):

[0084] - R is a C12-C20 alkyl group,

[0085] - G is a glucose motif,

[0086] - x' is worth from 1 to 3.

[0087] Preferably, the alkyl polyglucoside is selected from lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, octyldodecyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, and one of their combinations.

[0088] Advantageously, the alkyl polyglucoside is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 1.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.2% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes

[0089] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one wax having a melting point above 50 °C.

[0090] As used herein, the term "wax" is intended to refer to a lipophilic compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0091] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one wax having a melting point between 60 °C and 80 °C.

[0092] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3: 1999.

[0093] Non-limiting examples of waxes in the present invention include waxes of natural origin such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, sugar cane wax, lignite wax, montan wax, hydrogenated oils, waxes of synthetic origin such as fatty alcohols with 14 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0094] The expression "fatty alcohol" in the present invention refers to an alcohol comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), and comprising at least 14 carbon atoms, and which is neither oxyalkylated (in particular neither oxyethylated, nor oxypropylated), nor glycerolated.

[0095] Fatty alcohols can be represented by R-OH, in which R denotes a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl comprising 14 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 14 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0096] Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols useful in the present invention include stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol), lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol), ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol), montanyyl alcohol (1-octacosanol), C14-22 alcohols, and combinations thereof.

[0097] Preferably, the wax is chosen from candelilla wax, C14-22 alcohols, and their combinations.

[0098] Advantageously, the wax is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0099] Advantageously, the weight ratio of vegetable butter to wax with a melting point above 50 °C is 0.1 to 2, preferably 0.2 to 1, more preferably 0.2 to 0.6. Oils

[0100] The composition of the present invention may include an oil.

[0101] The oily phase contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0102] The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water and is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0103] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0104] The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 103 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0105] The term “volatile oil” means any oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0106] The oils may include hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, or combinations thereof.

[0107] They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0108] The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0109] The term “silicone oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0110] The oils may include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferable that the oil be chosen from among C8-C50 fatty ester oils, alkanes and one of their combinations.

[0112] The C8-C50 fatty esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0113] Preferably, for C8-C50 fatty esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched. More preferably, the alcohol from which the esters are derived is branched.

[0114] These esters may be, for example, adipates, sebacates, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or combinations thereof.

[0115] In some preferred embodiments, the composition comprises a C3-C8 fatty alcohol and myristic acid ester that is branched.

[0116] The alkanes are preferably linear or C8-C20 branched alkanes. Examples that may be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.

[0117] In some preferred embodiments, the composition includes C15-19 alkanes.

[0118] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Aqueous phase

[0119] Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0120] The aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount of 10% by weight at 98% by weight, more preferably from 30% by weight to 96% by weight, even more preferably from 50% by weight to 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional adjuvants or additives

[0121] The composition of the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example, preservatives and bactericides, pH regulators, and combinations thereof.

[0122] A person skilled in the art can adjust the quantity of additional adjuvants or additives so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

[0123] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight of murumuru butter; ii. from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight of at least one modified starch hydroxyalkyl selected from hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and one of their combinations; and iii. from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight of at least one acrylate polymer selected from polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, sodium starch polyacrylate, and one of their combinations. Method and use

[0124] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is used for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials.

[0125] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to the present invention on the keratinous materials.

[0126] Preferably, the keratinous material is the skin, for example facial skin. EXAMPLES

[0127] The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention.

[0128] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0129] [Table 1]

[0130] [Tables 1] INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Sodium polyacrylate starch MAKIMOUSSE 12 DAITO KASEI KO GYO (C12-20 alkyl glucoside) MONTANOV L SEPPIC Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate STRUCTURE XL AKZO NOBEL (N OURYON) C15-19 alkane EMOGREEN L19 SEPPIC Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax 7820 LIGHT SPECIA L CANDELILLA RE AL MULTICERAS Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 SEPIMAX ZEN SEPPIC Sodium carboxymethyl starch BEAUTY BY ROQUETTE ST 118 ROQUETTE Seed butter of Astrocaryum mu rumuru (Astrocaryum murumuru see d butter) RAIN FOREST 03710 BERACA INGR. N ATURAIS (CLARI ANT) Dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 (Di methicone (and) polysilicone-11) GRANSIL DMG-6LC GRANT INDUSTR IES Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

[0131] The compositions of inventive example (EL) 1 and comparative examples (EC.) 1-4 were prepared on the basis of the quantities given in Table 2. The quantities are given as % by weight of each ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, MA meaning active ingredient.

[0132] [Table 2] Table #2 Components El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Sodium starch polyacrylate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 C12-20 alkyl glucoside 0.5(MA) 0.5(MA) 0.5(MA) 0.5(MA) 0.5(MA) Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate 0.5 0 0 0.5 0.5 Cetyl alcohol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Isopropyl myristate 2 2 2 2 2 C15-19 alkane 2 2 2 2 2 Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 1.5 Sodium starch carboxymethyl 0 0 0.44 0 0 Astrocaryum mu rumuru seed butter 1 1 0 0 1 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0134] The composition of Inventive Example 1 represents the composition according to the present invention.

[0135] The composition of comparative example 1 does not include component (ii).

[0136] The composition of comparative example 2 does not include component (i) nor the component (ii).

[0137] The composition of comparative example 3 does not include component (i).

[0138] The composition of comparative example 4 comprises more than 1.5% by weight of the component (iii).

[0139] Preparation process:

[0140] The compositions listed above were prepared as follows: 1. Phase A: Introduction of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (if present), sodium carboxymethyl starch (if present) into water at 85 °C under stirring at 400 rpm until a homogeneous phase A is obtained. 2. Phase B: mixture of C14-22 alcohols (and) C12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl myristate, C15-19 alkane, Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax and Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter (if present) with stirring at 80 °C to obtain a clear oily phase B. 3. Introduction of phase B into phase A at 70 °C with stirring at 900 rpm for 15 minutes to obtain a mixture. 4. Introduction of sodium starch polyacrylate, crosslinked polyacrylate-6 polymer into the mixture obtained in step 3 with stirring until uniformity, then cooling to room temperature (25 °C). Composition evaluation

[0141] The stability of the composition of inventive example 1, the sensation of transformation and the anti-soaking aspect delivered by the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were evaluated. Stability

[0142] The stability of the composition of inventive example 1 was evaluated by centrifugation at 25 °C, 900 rcf (or FCR, relative centrifugal force) for 1 hour. If there is phase separation at the end of centrifugation, the composition under test fails the stability test, and if there is no phase separation at the end of centrifugation, the composition under test passes the stability test.

[0143] Here, the expression "phase separation" means that the composition system is not stable, the aqueous phase being at least partially separated from the composition.

[0144] It has been found that the composition of inventive example 1 is stable, i.e. without phase separation after being subjected to centrifugation at 25 °C, 900 rcf (or FCR, relative centrifugal force) for 1 hour. Sensation of transformation

[0145] The sensation of transformation delivered by each composition of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 4 was evaluated by 10 skin experts during a blind trial.

[0146] To assess the sensation of transformation, the experts applied 0.3 g of each test composition to the skin. The degree of sensation of transformation delivered by each test composition was then rated on a scale of 1 to 5 according to the following standard, and the average of the scores was calculated for each composition.

[0147] 1: means no sensation of transformation,

[0148] 2: signifies a slight sensation of transformation,

[0149] 3: signifies a sensation of moderate transformation,

[0150] 4: signifies a moderate to strong sensation of transformation,

[0151] 5: signifies a very strong feeling of transformation.

[0152] During the test, dimethicone (and) polysilicone-11 were used as the standard sample and the sensation of transformation delivered was noted as 5.

[0153] In the context of the present invention, the higher the score value, the better the feeling of transformation. Anti-soap effect

[0154] The anti-soaking aspect delivered by each composition of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1-4 was evaluated as follows.

[0155] 200 qL of each test composition were applied to a 6.3 cm² bioskin x 6.3 cm, distributed by massage with a finger mitt at 2 revolutions / s for 30 seconds and evaluated in terms of soap film intensity with a score of "0-5" by 10 skin experts according to the standard presented in [Fig. 1], in which 0 represents no soaping and 5 represents the most soaping. The average of the scores was then calculated for each composition. For the purposes of the present invention, the lower the score value, the better the anti-soaking aspect of the composition.

[0156] The results of the sensation of transformation and the anti-soaking appearance of the compositions of inventive example 1 and comparative examples 1-4 have been summarized in Table 3.

[0157] [Table 3]

[0158] [Tables3] Properties El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Sensation of transformation 4.3 2.2 1.5 2.6 1.3 Anti-soaking aspect 0.9 3.2 3.5 4.2 3.8

[0159] It can be seen in Table 3 that the composition of inventive example 1 is stable and can deliver a desired transformation sensation and exhibit an anti-soap aspect.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the following components: (i) at least one butter of vegetable origin; (ii) at least one hydroxyalkyl modified starch; and (iii) up to 1.5% by weight of at least one acrylate polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the butter of vegetable origin is murumuru butter.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the vegetable butter is present in an amount from 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15% by weight to 3% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydroxyalkyl in the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is a C2-C6 alkyl hydroxyl.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydroxyalkyl modified starch is present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.2% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the acrylate polymer is selected from polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, C10-30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, sodium starch polyacrylate and combinations thereof, preferably selected from polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, sodium polyacrylate, sodium starch polyacrylate, and combinations thereof; preferably present in an amount from 0.01% by weight to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a wax having a melting point higher at 50 °C, preferably from 60 °C to 80 °C, more preferably chosen from candelilla wax, C14-22 alcohols, and their combinations; is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside selected from those of formula (I): RO-Gx (I) in which R is a C6-22 alkyl group, preferably a C8-22 alkyl group, and more preferably a C12-20 alkyl group, G is a glucose motif, and x' represents the average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 3, preferably the alkyl polyglucoside is selected from lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucosides, octyldodecyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, and one of their combinations.

9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: (i) 0.2% to 2% by weight of murumuru butter; (ii) 0.2% to 1.5% by weight of at least one hydroxyalkyl modified starch selected from hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and combinations thereof; and (iii) 0.1% to 0.8% by weight of at least one acrylate polymer selected from polyacrylate-6 crosslinked polymer, sodium starch polyacrylate, and combinations thereof.

10. Non-therapeutic method of care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on keratinous materials.