Cosmetic composition comprising an organic acid ester, resveratrol, tocopherol and ascorbic acid

Abstract

TITLE: Cosmetic composition comprising an organic acid ester, resveratrol, tocopherol, and ascorbic acid. The invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising: (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives and their isomeric geometric forms, one of its salts and their solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixture thereof; (d) ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, one of their derivatives, their salts or mixture thereof.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising an organic acid ester, resveratrol, tocopherol and ascorbic acid

[0001] The invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic one, comprising: (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives, and their isomeric geometric forms, salts and solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; (c) of tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixtures thereof; (d) of ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, one of its salts, one of their derivatives or mixtures thereof.

[0002] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratinous materials, in particular facial and / or body skin, comprising applying said composition to said keratinous materials, in particular under UV exposure.

[0003] The invention also relates to a method according to the preceding claim, for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment to prevent the aging of keratinous materials, particularly under exposure to UV.

[0004] The invention finally relates to the use of such a composition for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care of the skin of the body and / or face, in particular for the protection of the skin implementing said composition preferably cosmetic.

[0005] The invention relates to the use of such a composition for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment for the care of the skin of the body and / or face, in particular for the protection of the skin, especially under UV exposure

[0006] These compositions are preferentially intended to prevent and / or treat the signs of aging of keratinous materials such as skin, and in particular to increase collagen synthesis throughout the skin tissue.

[0007] Human skin consists of two tissues, one superficial, the epidermis, the other deep, the dermis.

[0008] The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells: keratinocytes, which are by far the most numerous, melanocytes, and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes, through its specific functions, to the essential role played by the skin in the body, in particular the role of protecting the body from external aggressions (climate, ultraviolet rays, tobacco, etc.), known as the "barrier function".

[0009] The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nourishing element. It is mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix made up primarily of collagen, elastin, and a non-fibrillar matrix, known as the ground substance. These components are synthesized by the fibroblasts. Leukocytes, mast cells, and tissue macrophages are also found there. Finally, the dermis is traversed by blood vessels and nerve fibers.

[0010] The cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis is ensured by the dermo-epidermal junction. This is a complex region approximately 100 nm thick that includes the basal pole of the basal keratinocytes, the epidermal membrane, and the subbasal zone of the superficial dermis (Bernard P. Structure of the dermo-epidermal junction. Objectif peau. 2001, 68: 87-93). Structurally, hemidesmosomes, into which keratin filaments are inserted (hemidesmosome-tonofilament complex), are distributed on the plasma membrane of the basal keratinocytes. Adjacent to these hemidesmosome-tonofilament complexes are anchoring filaments that cross the epidermal basement membrane. The anchoring filaments are linked to laminin 5 on the epidermal side. Finally, anchoring fibrils constitute the subbasal network.These are curvilinear structures that originate and terminate on the deep surface of the basement membrane and into which collagen I, III, and V fibers become embedded. It has been shown that these anchoring fibrils, perfectly visualized by electron microscopy, are composed of type VII collagen (hereafter collagen VII). Collagen VII is synthesized by keratinocytes and fibroblasts, but more extensively by keratinocytes (Aumailley M, Rousselle P. Laminins of the dermoepdiermal junction. Matrix Biology. 1999, 18: 19-28; Nievers M, Schaapveld R, Sonnenberg A. Biology and function of hemidesmosomes, Matrix Biology, 1999, 18: 5-17).

[0011] Thus, collagens are the major proteins of the extracellular matrices. To date, 20 types of collagen have been identified and designated from I to XX. Different families of collagen are distinguished among these types according to the structures formed: - the family of fibrillar collagens (types I, II, II, V / XI) which therefore form fibers; - the family of collagens forming the network of the 5 basement membranes which includes type VI and type XVII collagen; - collagens forming hexagonal networks (type VIII and type X), pearl filaments (Type VI), FACIT (type IX, XII, XIV, XVI, XIX, XX); - anchoring fibrils which correspond to type VII + IV; - multiplexins (type XV, XVII) and - type XIII collagen, whose precise functions are not yet known.

[0012] In the skin, the collagens predominantly present throughout the dermis are type I and III collagens which form the extracellular matrix of the entire dermis (these collagens constitute 70-80% of the dry weight of the dermis).

[0013] Furthermore, not all collagens are synthesized by the same cell types; type I and III collagens are primarily produced by dermal fibroblasts, while type VII collagen is produced by epidermal keratinocytes. Finally, the regulation of their expression differs from one collagen to another; for example, type I and VII collagens are not regulated in the same way by certain cytokines. Indeed, TNF-alpha and leukoregulin stimulate type VII collagen and negatively regulate type I collagen.

[0014] Finally, all collagen molecules are variants of a common precursor, which is the α chain of procollagen.

[0015] With age, the collagen network becomes less dense, deteriorates, and becomes disorganized, and wrinkles appear on the skin's surface. Skin aging is a genetically programmed mechanism. Furthermore, certain environmental factors, such as pollution and especially exposure to sunlight, accelerate it. As a result, the skin appears much older in areas exposed to the sun, such as the backs of the hands or the face. Thus, these other factors also have a negative impact on the skin's natural collagen.

[0016] Consequently, in view of the determining role of collagen and in particular type I collagen, at the level of cohesion between the epidermis and dermis tissues, and consequently at the level of the integrity of the skin and its resistance to external mechanical aggressions, the stimulation of the synthesis of these different forms of collagen appears as an effective means to counteract the signs of skin aging.

[0017] The present invention aims precisely to propose a new cosmetic and / or dermatological composition to limit the signs of aging of keratinous materials, such as skin, whether chronobiological or photo-induced, and in particular aging generated by a decrease in the mechanical properties of the skin and / or by a degradation of collagen in the structure of skin tissues.

[0018] However, it is very difficult to find a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition specifically adapted to prevent and / or treat the signs of aging of keratinous materials such as skin, through an improvement in the quality of the skin such as its mechanical properties of firmness or elasticity, while presenting good cosmetic and sensory properties, including for example freshness and glide on application or a pleasant (especially soft) skin finish sensation.

[0019] In view of the foregoing, it is thus manifest that there remains a need for consumers to provide cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions suitable for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of keratinous materials such as skin, while having satisfactory cosmetic properties, in particular with regard to sensory properties upon application, in particular advantageous properties in terms of sensory experience.

[0020] The present invention is specifically designed to meet these needs.

[0021] This type of problem has notably been described in patent application WO2023110763 where it is demonstrated that the use of low levels of merocyanins of particular formula makes it possible to increase the biological effect of ascorbic acid on the production of pro-collagen by skin cells.

[0022] In the present invention, we have found surprisingly that by combining (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives as well as their isomeric geometric forms and their solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixture thereof; (d) ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, one of their derivatives or mixture thereof, it is possible to substantially improve the action of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives in a context of exposure to UV-A rays, by maximizing its effects on the different constituents of the matrix such as the different types of collagen, elastic fibers and proteoglycans, as well as on epidermal differentiation to optimize the barrier function, and on the anti-pigmenting effect.We have notably observed that by combining (a), (b), (c) and (d) it was possible to significantly improve the action of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives in a context of exposure to UV-A rays due to the improved effect on the production of pro-collagen of this combination, while having a low quantity of UV filters, in particular less than or equal to 3%.

[0023] Therefore, a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising: (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives, and their isomeric geometric forms, salts and solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or a mixture thereof; (d) Ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, one of their derivatives or a mixture thereof, makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the signs of aging of a keratinous material, such as the skin, effectively, particularly in a context of exposure to UV-A rays, while also exhibiting good cosmetic properties.

[0024] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of said keratinous material of at least one composition according to the invention as defined above.

[0025] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating signs of aging, such as signs of photo-aging, of a keratinous material, comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition as defined above.

[0026] The present invention also relates to the use of (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives and their isomeric geometric forms, their salts and their solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixtures thereof associated with (d) ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives in order to reduce or treat the signs of aging, in particular the cutaneous signs of photoaging, in particular to improve elasticity, firmness, evenness of complexion, microrelief, and / or wrinkles and fine lines and / or diminish the signs associated with elastosis of keratinous materials such as skin.

[0027] The combination according to the invention is effective in combating more effectively the signs of skin aging and / or stimulating skin regeneration / repair processes.

[0028] The association according to the invention therefore finds a particular application in cosmetic compositions intended to prevent and / or cosmetically treat skin aging, in particular to prevent and / or treat, in particular topically, the skin signs of aging, and especially the skin signs related to wrinkled skin, skin showing a decrease in its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, and / or skin showing a change in its surface appearance.

[0029] Indeed, it has been found in particular to be surprising that the organic acid esters of formula (I); resveratrol, one of its derivatives as well as their isomeric geometric forms, their salts and their solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof and tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixtures thereof, are capable of stimulating, as well as potentiating the action of ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives on the production of procollagen I by fibroblasts in a context of UVA exposure.

[0030] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows.

[0031] The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Hereinafter, "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0032] In the context of the present invention, "keratinous material" means in particular the skin, the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

[0033] By "prevent" or "prevention", according to the invention, means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a keratinous material.

[0034] The use of a composition according to the invention comprising (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives, and their isomeric geometric forms, salts, and solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers, or mixtures thereof; and (d) ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives, may more particularly allow for the maintenance and / or restoration of the biomechanical properties of the skin, and / or the prevention and / or treatment of the cutaneous signs of aging.

[0035] By "biomechanical properties of the skin", we mean here the properties of extensibility, tone, firmness, suppleness and / or elasticity of the skin.

[0036] By "cutaneous signs of aging," we mean, in particular, changes in the external appearance of the skin due to aging, whether chronobiological and / or extrinsic, especially photo-induced or hormonal; among these signs, we can distinguish: - wrinkled skin, which is characterized in particular by the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines; - skin exhibiting an alteration of its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties, or skin exhibiting a lack of elasticity and / or extensibility and / or firmness and / or suppleness and / or tone, which is reflected in particular by withered, soft, loose or sagging skin; - the skin showing an alteration in the cohesion of its tissues; - thinned skin; - skin exhibiting heterogeneities, particularly those related to photoaging, and - skin exhibiting an alteration in its surface appearance, which is reflected in particular by an alteration in the skin's texture, for example, roughness.

[0037] The invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I); (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives, and their isomeric geometric forms, salts, and solvates such as hydrates or their mixtures; (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or their mixture with ascorbic acid and / or one of its derivatives according to the invention, as an agent to prevent and / or reduce the skin signs of aging.

[0038] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, in particular for makeup and / or the care of keratinous materials, comprising: (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I), or one of its geometric isomers, of its acid or base salts, organic or mineral, or of its solvates, in particular hydrates: [Chem 1] formula (I) in which: R1, R4 and R5 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, or an (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, in particular an (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, and preferably a methoxy; R3 represents a hydroxyl group or an (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; and R6 represents a group chosen from: i) (Ci-C6)alkyl, in particular a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, ii) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from (Ci-Cio)alkyl, (C2-CiO)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, and iii) glycosylated, (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives, and their isomeric geometric forms, salts and solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or a mixture thereof; (d) of ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, one of their derivatives or mixture

[0039] According to another aspect of it, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process, in particular non-therapeutic, for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the body and / or face, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above.

[0040] Other features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the detailed description that follows.

[0041] A composition according to the invention is cosmetic and / or dermatological, and preferably is cosmetic.

[0042] A composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. compatible with the skin.

[0043] Preferably, this is a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, i.e. tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying this composition.

[0044] In the cosmetic care field, cosmetic compositions that provide both good sensory properties and a care effect are increasingly sought after by users.

[0045] It includes in particular a “cosmetically acceptable” medium also called a “physiologically acceptable” medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratinous materials, in particular the skin.

[0046] For the purposes of the present invention, "keratinous materials" means the skin and its appendages.

[0047] By “skin”, we mean human skin, in particular of the face and / or body, the scalp.

[0048] By "annexes" we mean human keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, and hair, in particular eyelashes and hair.

[0049] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for materials, characterized by the fact that a composition according to the present invention is applied to said keratinous materials.

[0050] Furthermore, the invention also relates to the use of said composition in the cosmetic field, in particular for the care of the skin of the body or face.

[0051] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0052] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0053] By "alkyl" is meant a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon group of the type (Cx-Cy), linear or branched, comprising x carbon atoms and y carbon atoms, for example a C-C6 alkyl, implies an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably the alkyl group is a C1-C4 group such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, i-propyl, butyl, i-butyl, t-butyl. By "alkenyl" is meant a monovalent unsaturated hydrocarbon group of the type (Cx-Cy), linear or branched, comprising x carbon atoms and y carbon atoms, comprising one or more unsaturations, conjugated or non-conjugated, preferably of 1 to 3 double bonds, for example a C2-C22 alkenyl, implies an alkenyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, and comprising one or more unsaturations, preferably of 1 to 3 double bonds.

[0054] For the purposes of this invention, "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is not miscible in water at ordinary temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, and preferably 1%, even more preferably 0.1%); furthermore, fatty substances are miscible in particular in all proportions in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as halogenated solvents such as chloroform, dichloromethane, inferior alcohols such as ethanol or aromatic solvents such as benzene or toluene.

[0055] By "organic or mineral acid salt" is meant more particularly salts selected from a salt derived from i) hydrochloric acid HCl, ii) hydrobromic acid HBr, iii) sulfuric acid H2SO4, iv) alkylsulfonic acids: Alk-S(O)2OH such as methylsulfonic acid and ethylsulfonic acid; v) arylsulfonic acids: Ar-S(O)2OH such as benzenesulfonic acid and toluenesulfonic acid; vi) succinic acid; vii) alkoxysulfinic acids: Alk-OS(O)OH such as methoxysulfinic acid and ethoxysulfinic acid; viii) aryloxysulfinic acids such as tolueneoxysulfinic acid and phenoxysulfinic acid; ix) phosphoric acid H3PO4; x) (poly)(hydroxy)(Ci-C6)alkylcarboxylic acid such as acetic acid CH3C(O)OH, citric acid, tartaric acid; lactic acid; xi) triflic acid CF3SO3H and xii) tetrafluoroboric acid HBF4;as well as so-called "acidic" amino acid salts such as glutamic acid salts and aspartic acid;

[0056] By "salts of organic or mineral bases" is meant salts of bases or of alkali agents such as alkali metal hydroxides like sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide,

[0057] ammonia, amines or alkanolamines or even salts of so-called "basic" amino acids such as lysine or arginine. (a) Organic acid esters of formula (I) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) one or more organic acid esters of formula (I), or one of its geometric isomers, of its acid or base salts, organic or mineral, or of its solvates, in particular hydrates: [Chem 2]

[0058]

[0059] Formula (I) in which: R1, R4 and R5 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, or a (Ci) group -C6)alkoxy, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy; R3 represents a hydroxyl group or an (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, of preferably a hydroxyl group; and R6 represents a group chosen from: i) (Ci-C6)alkyl, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, in particular methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, ii) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from (Ci-Cio)alkyl, (C2-CiO)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, and iii) glycosylated. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, R6 represents an i) (Ci-C6)alkyl group, as defined above. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, R6 represents a monocyclic cycloalkyl group (ii) saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, non-aromatic, comprising from 5 to 7 carbon atoms and is optionally substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups and / or by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl.

[0060] In particular, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl and / or carboxyl groups. Specifically, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl and is optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl, and / or amido groups, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl. More specifically, the cycloalkyl group is cyclohexyl, optionally substituted by 1 to 5 hydroxyl and / or carboxyl groups.

[0061] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, R6 represents a polycyclic cycloalkyl group ii) preferably comprising between 2 and 5 fused rings, comprising from 12 to 32 carbon atoms and optionally being substituted, in particular the cycloalkyl is a polycyclic group comprising between 4 and 5 fused rings, said rings having 3, 5, or 6 links, and 16 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 17 or 18 carbon atoms, said cycloalkyl optionally being substituted by one or more linear or branched (Ci-Cio)alkyl or linear or branched (C2-CiO)alkenyl groups.

[0062] Preferably, the organic acid ester has formula (I), in which: R1, R4 and R5 represent hydrogen atoms; R2 represents a hydroxyl group or an (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, preferably an (Ci-C4)alkoxy group, in particular methoxy; R3 represents a hydroxyl group or a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group; and R6 represents a group chosen from i) (Ci-C6)alkyl, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, as well as its geometric isomers, its acid or base salts, organic or mineral, and its solvates, such as hydrates.

[0063] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester of formula (I) has the formula (!') below: [Chem 3] Formula (!') in which: R6 is as defined above; and R7 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group.

[0064] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester may more particularly be of formula (!') in which R6 represents a (CrC 6)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably an ethyl group; and R7 is a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably a methyl group.

[0065] According to this embodiment, ethyl ferulate is preferred.

[0066] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester can be more particularly of formula (!') in which R6 represents a saturated monocyclic cycloalkyl group comprising 5 to 7 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more groups, preferably between 1 and 4 groups, chosen from hydroxyl and / or carboxyl; and R7 is a hydrogen atom.

[0067] According to this embodiment, chlorogenic acid is preferred.

[0068] According to one embodiment, the organic acid ester can be more particularly of formula (!') in which R6 represents a polycyclic group comprising between 3 and 5 fused saturated rings, comprising between 16 and 20 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one, preferably at least two, (CrC4) alkyl groups, preferably ethyl, and by at least one, preferably one, branched (C8-Cio)alkenyl or (C8-CiO)alkyl group, and R7 is a (Ci-C6)alkyl group, preferably (Ci-C4)alkyl, preferably a methyl group.

[0069] According to this embodiment, Oryzanol, and in particular Gamma-Oryzanol, is particularly preferred.

[0070] The compounds of formula (I) and (!') according to the invention are preferably chosen from natural or naturally derived compounds. They are preferably "green" compounds.

[0071] As particular examples of esters of formula (I) or (I'), methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate, or ferulic acid and sterol esters, such as Oryzanol, in particular gamma-Oryzanol, may be mentioned.

[0072] The compounds of formulas (I) and (I') can be obtained by any method known to a person skilled in the art.

[0073] For example, ferulic acid esters can be obtained by esterification of ferulic acid itself obtained, for example, by biosynthesis by methoxylation of caffeic acid using the enzyme caffeic acid-O-methyltransferase, or by extraction from a plant extract, in particular wheat bran, for example using concentrated bases such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide.

[0074] Gamma-Oryzanol can be obtained by extraction using an organic solvent, in particular from rice bran.

[0075] The compounds of formulas (I) or (!') defined above may optionally be introduced into a composition according to the invention in the form of a plant extract. For example, Gamma-Oryzanol may be implemented in the form of a rice bran extract. Chlorogenic acid may be implemented in the form of an extract of green coffee, blackcurrant, sunflower, artichoke, honeysuckle, plum, apple, potato, sweet potato, blueberry, arnica, or Damask rose.

[0076] A number of compounds of formula (I) or (!') are also commercially available, such as Gamma-Oryzanol available under the trade name Oryzanol® from Tsuno Rice Fine Chemicals, Gamma Oryzanol® from Ikeda or Oryzanolgamma V® from Ichimaru Pharcos, ethyl ferulate under the trade name Ethyl Ferulate, Natural or COS by Gfn Selco, also available from Sigma / Aldrich, and chlorogenic acid under the trade name Eucommia Leaves Extract Chlorogenic Acid 98% from Guilin Layn Natural Ingredients.

[0077] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises an organic acid ester selected from ethyl ferulate, Oryzanol, and in particular Gamma-Oryzanol, chlorogenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0078] A composition according to the invention may comprise an amount greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 10.0% by weight of organic acid ester(s) of formula (I), in particular greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 7.0% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0079] As mentioned above, the ester of formula (I) can be implemented in the form of a plant extract, also called "raw material," comprising one or more compounds of formula (I) as defined previously. Thus, a composition according to the invention may comprise an amount greater than or equal to 1.0% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, more preferably an amount greater than or equal to 2.0% and less than or equal to 15% by weight of plant extract containing at least one organic acid ester of formula (I), relative to the total weight of said composition. (b) Resveratrol

[0080] The composition according to the invention comprises (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives and their isomeric geometric forms, their salts and their solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof.

[0081] Resveratrol is a polyphenol that exists in a cis (or Z) form and a trans (or E) form, represented below:

[0082] [Chem.4] css-fesveratroi

[0083] By "resveratrol derivative" is meant compounds whose skeleton is resveratrol as defined above, of which at least one of the 3 hydroxyl groups is salified and / or functionalized, in particular by a sugar, especially a glycosyl or glucoside. More particularly, the condensation product of glucose, in the D form, that is to say in the form of α- or β-glucopyranose or α- or β-furanose, or in the L form, with resveratrol, preferably in the L form.

[0084] Resveratrol and its derivatives, in particular trans-resveratrol, are known to have many biological properties such as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.

[0085] Resveratrol exists in nature in its cis and trans forms, but also in other derived forms such as a glucosylated form.

[0086] Resveratrol and its derivatives are present in many plants and fruits. They are found, in particular, in Japanese knotweed (Fallopia japonica, also known as Polygonum cupistadum or Reynoutria japonica) and in grapes, such as those from the grapevine species Vitis vinifera. More specifically, resveratrol and its derivatives are found, for example, in blackberries, wine, and peanuts.

[0087] Generally speaking, resveratrol and its derivatives are found in the following plant families: Vitaceae, Myrtaceae, Dipterocarpaceae, Cyperaceae, Gnetaceae, Fabaceae, Pinaceae, Polygonaceae, Moraceae, Fagaceae, Liliaceae, etc.

[0088] Examples of resveratrol derivatives include resveratrol triphosphate, alkali or alkaline earth salts, and in particular alkali salts such as sodium resveratrol triphosphate with the following formula, as well as its geometric isomers and solvates such as hydrates:

[0089] [Chem. 5]

[0090] We can also mention polydatin, which is a derivative of resveratrol, with the following formula, as well as its salts and solvates such as hydrates:

[0091] [Chem. 6] OH

[0092] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises resveratrol, its salts, resveratrol triphosphate, its salts, polydatin, its salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from resveratrol, sodium resveratrol triphosphate, polydatin and mixtures thereof.

[0093] More preferably, the composition comprises resveratrol. Better still, the composition comprises resveratrol in its trans form.

[0094] Resveratrol, in particular trans-resveratrol or its derivatives, present in the composition according to the invention may be of synthetic origin, natural or may be in the form of a plant extract containing resveratrol, in particular trans-resveratrol.

[0095] Preferably, resveratrol, one or more of its derivatives, as well as their isomeric geometric forms, their salts and their solvates such as hydrates or a mixture thereof, is / are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount greater than or equal to 0.001 and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.01 and less than or equal to 5% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.05 and less than or equal to 2% by weight. greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight and less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (c) Tocopherol

[0096] The composition according to the invention comprises (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixtures thereof.

[0097] Tocopherol preferably corresponds to α-tocopherol, or vitamin E. Its structure is the following formula (IV): [Chem. 7] (IV)

[0098] By "tocopherol derivative" is preferably understood tocopherol esters and ethers, tocotrienols and their optical and geometric isomers, preferably C1-C24 esters and ethers, preferably C2-Ci8 esters and ethers particularly tocopherol esters and carboxylic acids in particular (Ci-C22)alkylcarboxylic acid, (C2-C22)alkenylcarboxylic acid, (hetero)arylcarboxylic acid such as pyridinic carboxylic acids or ethers from (Ci-C22)alkanols, or (C2-C22)alkenols.

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment, the tocopherol derivative is selected from tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate, or tocopherol nicotinate or a mixture thereof.

[0100] One can cite, for example, the product DL Alpha Tocopheryl acetate® marketed by the company EISAI.

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate.

[0102] Preferably, the amount of (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixtures thereof in the composition is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight and less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. (d) Ascorbic acid

[0103] The composition according to the invention comprises (d) ascorbic acid (also called Vitamin C), its optical isomers, one of their derivatives, their salts or mixtures thereof.

[0104] In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount of ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, one of their derivatives, their salts or mixtures greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 30% by weight, more particularly greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, and preferably greater than or equal to 5% and less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] More preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises an amount of ascorbic acid greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 5% and less than or equal to 15% by weight of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0106] Ascorbic acid can be in D or L form, advantageously in L form.

[0107] By way of example, an ascorbic acid according to the invention is marketed by Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory under the trade name ASCORBIC ACID EP / BP / USP / FCC / E300®, by CSPC WEISHENG PHARMACEUTICAL under the name ASCORBIC ACID 100 MESH® or by DSM under the name ASCORBIC ACID ULTRA FINE POWDER®.

[0108] The derivatives of ascorbic acid according to the invention can be selected from its salts, esters, ethers and sugars.

[0109] The salts of ascorbic acid may be selected in particular from sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate, its ethers, such as in particular its acetic, propionic or palmitic esters, or its sugars, such as in particular glycosylated ascorbic acid.

[0110] Because of its chemical structure (alpha-ketolactone) which makes it very sensitive, it may be advantageous to use ascorbic acid in the form of a sugar ester of ascorbic acid or a phosphorylated metallic salt of ascorbic acid.

[0111] The sugar esters of ascorbic acid usable in the invention include, in particular, glycosylated, mannosylated, fructosylated, fucosylated, galactosylated N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof, and more specifically ascorbyl-2 glucoside or 2-O-α-D-glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid, or 6-O-[3-D-galactopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds, as well as their preparation processes, are described in particular in documents EP-A-487404, EP-A-425066 and JP05213736.

[0112] For its part, the phosphorylated ascorbic acid metal salt can be chosen from alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates, alkali metal ascorbyl phosphates earthy and ascorbyl transition metal phosphates, such as magnesium, sodium, potassium, calcium, zinc.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment, the ascorbic acid derivative is selected from ascorbyl-2 glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.

[0114] More particularly the ascorbic acid derivative is chosen from ascorbyl-2 glucoside (or 2-O-αD glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid) and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

[0115] A derivative of ascorbic acid may be 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (or ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID, or L-Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ether).

[0116] As an example, ascorbyl-2 glucoside (or 2-O-αD glucopyranosyl of L-ascorbic acid) is marketed by Northeast General Pharmaceutical Factory under the trade name L-ASCORBIC ACID 2-GLUCOSIDE® (comprising 100% of the active substance ascorbyl-2 glucoside), or by HAYASHIBARA under the trade name L-ASCORBIC ACID 2-GLUCOSIDE® (comprising 100% of the active substance ascorbyl-2 glucoside).

[0117] As an example, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (or ETHYL ASCORBIC ACID) is marketed by the company NIPPON HYPOX LABORATORIES under the trade name VITAMIN C ETHYL ® (comprising 100% of the active ingredient 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid).

[0118] By way of example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (73% active matter in water) is marketed by SHOWA DENKO under the trade name ASCORBYL PM ®, or by JINGJIANG HENGTONG BIOENGINEERING under the trade name MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE®, or by MERCK under the trade name RONACARE MAP ®.

[0119] According to a preferred embodiment, ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, one of their derivatives, their salts is selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbyl-2 glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and mixtures thereof, preferably ascorbic acid. Aqueous phase

[0120] A composition according to the invention may include an aqueous phase, and optionally an oily phase.

[0121] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent and is preferably monophasic.

[0122] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a water content of between 10% and 98% by weight, preferably between 25% and 90% by weight, and more preferably between 35% and 85%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] By "water-soluble organic solvent" according to the present invention, we mean a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure).

[0124] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

[0125] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, particular mention may be made of lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, polyols and also alkylene carbonates.

[0126] According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.

[0127] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 30% by total weight of at least one polyol(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of at least one polyol, even better from 0.7% to 5% by weight of at least one polyol relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0128] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0129] A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl-type compound, with a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH groups. Preferably, a polyol that can be used in the composition according to the invention is a linear alkyl-type compound bearing on the alkyl chain at least two -OH groups, preferably from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, more preferably 2 or 3 hydroxyl groups.

[0130] The polyol(s) advantageously suitable for the formulation of cosmetic compositions according to the present invention is / are the one(s) having in particular from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0131] The polyol(s) that can be used according to the present invention is / are chosen from linear polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms, including, in particular: - diols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol; and - triols, such as glycerol (glycerin), and their mixtures.

[0132] According to a much preferred embodiment, the polyol is chosen from triols such as glycerin.

[0133] The aqueous phase may further include any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as stabilizing agents, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0134] Preferably, the aqueous phase is present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 100% by weight, preferably from 20% to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Fatty phase

[0135] As mentioned previously, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty phase.

[0136] For the purposes of the invention, "fat phase" means a phase comprising at least one oil and all the fat-soluble and lipophilic ingredients and fats used for the formulation of the compositions of the invention.

[0137] In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise varying from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight of fat phase, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] The oily phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise oils, waxes, pastes, and / or silicone compounds, and preferably at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. Oils

[0139] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0140] A fatty phase suitable for the preparation of compositions, particularly cosmetics, according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0141] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0142] The oily phase may include, in addition to the merocyanin filter(s) and possibly additional lipophilic filters, at least one volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile silicone oil and / or a volatile and / or non-volatile fluorinated oil.

[0143] For the purposes of the present invention, "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[0144] The term “siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[0145] The term “fluoridated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0146] The oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. Volatile oils

[0147] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0148] Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon or silicone-based.

[0149] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils with 8 to 16 carbon atoms include C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C8-C16 branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0150] One can also mention volatile linear alkanes comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Cl4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cl1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008 / 155059 of Société Cognis, and their mixtures.

[0151] Examples of volatile silicone oils include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0152] Examples of cyclic siliconized volatile oils include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

[0153] Fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof, may also be used. Non-volatile oils

[0154] By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10-3 mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0155] Non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

[0156] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as paream, squalane, and mixtures thereof, - Non-volatile alkanes, preferably with a viscosity of less than 20 mPa.s at 20 °C measured with a Lamy Rheology Rhéomat RM 100® viscometer. "Non-volatile alkane" means a hydrocarbon cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a vapor pressure at 20 °C of less than 0.01 kPa, according to the definition of a Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) in Article 2 of European Council Directive 1999 / 13 / EC of 11 March 1992: "Any organic compound having a vapor pressure of 0.01 kPa or more at a temperature of 293.15 K". In particular, non-volatile alkanes comprise 10 to 30 carbon atoms, especially 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and more particularly 15 to 19 carbon atoms, and preferably a mixture of alkanes with 15 to 19 carbon atoms, for example the products marketed under the references Emogreen L19 and Emosmart L19 from Seppic, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, sesame seed oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel. - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, - synthetic esters, such as oils of the formula RiCOOR2, in which RI represents a remnant of a linear or branched fatty acid having 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, a branched one containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that RI + R2 is greater than or equal to 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, such as the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by Witco or "Tegosoft TN" by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-Tend 226" by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the the designation "Dub Dis" by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol;citrates, such as the C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester of C1-C6 alcohols with the INCI name Tiethyl Citrate, for example that marketed under the name Citrofol AI Extra by the company Jungbunzlauer; tartrates such as linear dialkyl tartrates having 12 or 13 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI by the company Enichem Augusta Industriale as well as linear dialkyl tartrates having between 14 and 15 carbon atoms, for example those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL by the same company, and acetates; - fatty amides such as Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, for example the product sold under the trade name "Eldew SL205" by Ajinomoto, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, for example the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC" by the company Cognis; - non-phenylated silicone oils, such as caprylyl methycone, and - phenylated silicone oils, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity of 100 cSt or less, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as mixtures of these different oils. Other fats

[0157] A fatty phase according to the invention may further comprise, mixed with or solubilized in an oil, other fatty substances.

[0158] Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase include, for example: - fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; - waxes, distinct from glyceryl trihydroxy stearate, such as lanolin, beeswax, Camauba or Candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; - silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-C4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; - silicone elastomers such as products marketed under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil" or "BY29" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries; - a gum chosen from among the silicone gums (dimethiconol), - a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymer silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, - and their mixtures.

[0159] As a fatty substance, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty alcohol wax. Such waxes may be selected from lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol, montanyyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0160] As a fat, a composition according to the invention may include in particular at least one butter, more particularly a vegetable butter.

[0161] The vegetable butter(s) suitable for the invention are preferably chosen from the group including avocado butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, kokum butter, mango butter, murumuru butter, coconut butter, apricot kernel butter, sal butter, annatto butter and mixtures thereof, and in particular is shea butter.

[0162] These fats can be chosen in a variety of ways by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

[0163] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one hydrocarbon oil non-volatile, in particular chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, non-volatile alkanes, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates, as well as mixtures of these different oils, better still chosen from synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates and mixtures thereof.

[0164] In particular, such non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.0% to 20.0% by weight, preferably from 2.0% to 15.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention contains at least one oil selected from squalane, mixtures of alkanes of 15 to 19 carbon atoms, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, alkyl benzoates having between 12 and 15 carbon atoms, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate, C3-C22 tricarboxylic acid ester and C1-C6 alcohols of INCI name Tiethyl Citrate, Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from diisopropyl sebacate, Isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate.

[0166] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), in particular less than 1.0% by weight of silicone oil(s), preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably is free of silicone oil(s).

[0167] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance.

[0168] According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and preferably at least one non-volatile ester oil. UV filters

[0169] A composition according to the invention may include at least one UV filter.

[0170] In particular, a composition according to the invention may include at least one compound filtering UVA and / or UVB.

[0171] The compositions according to the invention may thus contain, in addition, one or more UV filters selected from among hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filters and / or one or more mineral pigments. Preferably, it will consist of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic, or insoluble organic UV filter.

[0172] By "hydrophilic UV filter" is meant any cosmetic or dermatological organic or inorganic compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase or to be solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

[0173] By “lipophilic filter” is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and is capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.

[0174] By "insoluble UV filter" is meant any organic or inorganic cosmetic or dermatological compound that filters UV radiation and has a solubility in water of less than 0.5% by weight and a solubility of less than 0.5% by weight in most organic solvents such as paraffin oil, fatty alcohol benzoates, and fatty acid triglycerides, for example, Miglyol 812® marketed by DYNAMIT NOBEL. This solubility, measured at 70 °C, is defined as the amount of product dissolved in the solvent at equilibrium with an excess of suspended solids after returning to room temperature. It can easily be evaluated in the laboratory.

[0175] Organic UV filters are selected in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US patent 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP 0 669 323 and US 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in US applications 5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 0 893 119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665;α-Alkylstyrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE 19855649; 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds such as those described in applications EP 0 967 200, DE 19746654, DE 19755649, EP 1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 0 133 981 and mixtures thereof.

[0176] Examples of organic photoprotective agents include those designated below by their INCI name.

[0177] Cinnamic compounds: - Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold notably under the trade name Parsol MCX® by DSM Nutritial Products, - Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate, - Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate, sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise, - DEA Methoxycinnamate, - Düsopropyl Methylcinnamate, - Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

[0178] Dibenzoylmethane compounds: - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, sold notably under the trade name Parsol 1789® by DSM Nutritial Products, - Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

[0179] Para-aminobenzoic compounds: - PABA, - Ethyl PABA, - Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, - Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, sold notably under the name "Escol 507®" by ISP, - Glyceryl PABA, - PEG-25 PABA, sold under the name "Uvinul P 25®" by BASF.

[0180] Salicylic compounds: - Homosalate, sold under the name "Eusolex HMS®" by Rona / EM Industries, - Ethylhexyl Salicylate, sold under the name "Neo Heliopan OS®" by Symrise, - Dipropylene glycol salicylate, sold under the name "Dipsal®" by Scher, - TEA Salicylate, sold under the name "Neo Heliopan TS®" by Symrise.

[0181] Compounds [3,[3-diphenylacrylate: - Octocrylene, sold notably under the trade name "Uvinul N 539®" by BASF, - Etocrylene, sold notably under the trade name "Uvinul N 35®" by BASF.

[0182] Benzophenone compounds: - Benzophenone-1, sold under the trade name "Uvinul 400®" by BASF, - Benzophenone-2, sold under the trade name "Uvinul D 50®" by BASF, - Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name "Uvinul M 40®" by BASF, - Benzophenone-4, sold under the trade name "Uvinul MS 40®" by BASF, - Benzophenone-5, - Benzophenone-6, sold under the trade name “Helisorb 11®” by Norquay, - Benzophenone-8, sold under the trade name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24®" by American Cyanamid, - Benzophenone-9, sold under the trade name* Uvinul DS 49® by BASF, - Benzophenone-12, - n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate sold under the trade name "Uvinul A Plus ®" or in mixture with octylmethoxycinnamate under the trade name "Uvinul A Plus B®" by BASF, - 1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007 / 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (average size of 0.02 to 2 pm) which can be obtained for example by the micronization process described in applications GB 2 303 549 and EP 0 893 119 and in particular in aqueous dispersion form.

[0183] Benzylidene camphor compounds: - 3-Benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SD®" by Chimex, - 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, sold under the name "Eusolex 6300®" by Merck, - Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid, manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SL®" by Chimex, - Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SO®" by Chimex, - Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SX®" by Chimex, - Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor, manufactured under the name "Mexoryl SW®" by Chimex.

[0184] Phenyl benzimidazole compounds: - Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, sold notably under the trade name "Eusolex 232®" by Merck.

[0185] Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: - Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan AP®" by Haarmann and Reimer.

[0186] Phenyl benzotriazole compounds: - Drometrizole Trisiloxane, sold under the name "Silatrizole®" by Rhodia Chimie.

[0187] Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds: - Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, notably in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name "Mixxim BB / 100 ®" by Fairmount Chemical, or as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 pm and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 pm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of the structure CnH2n+10(C6H10O5)xH, where n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C6H10O5) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, as described in patent GB 2,303,549, notably sold under the trade name "Tinosorb M®" by BASF, or as an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 pm and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 pm and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 pm in the presence of at least one mono-(C8-C20)alkyl-ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO 2009 / 063392.

[0188] Triazine compounds: - 3,3'-(l,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-l,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine, with the following chemical formula:

[0189] [Chem. 8] ,N. Sex x

[0190] - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, sold under the trade name “Tinosorb S®” by BASF, - Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold notably under the trade name "Uvinul T 150®" by BASF, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, sold under the trade name "Uvasorb HEB®" by Sigma 3V, - dineopentyl 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - diisobutyl 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis-(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, - Symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl or polyphenyl groups described in US patent 6,225,467, application WO 2004 / 085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symetrical Triazine Derivatives" IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004), in particular 2,4,6-tris(di-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine, which is included in patent applications WO 06 / 035000, WO 06 / 034982, WO 06 / 034991, WO 06 / 035007, WO 2006 / 034992, WO 2006 / 034985, these compounds being advantageously used under micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 pm) which can be obtained, for example, by the process micronization described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, - triazine silicones substituted by two aminobenzoate groups as described in patent EP 0 841 341, in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalona te)-6-[(3-{ l,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine.

[0191] Anthranilic compounds: - Menthyl anthranilate, sold under the trade name "Neo Heliopan MA®" by Symrise.

[0192] Imidazoline compounds: - Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.

[0193] Benzalmalonate compounds: - Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name "Parsol SLX®" by Hoffmann La Roche.

[0194] 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: - 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

[0195] Benzoxazole compounds: - 2,4-bis-[5-l(diméthylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-l,3,5-triazine vendu sous le nom d’Uvasorb K2A® par Sigma 3V.

[0196] Les filtres organiques préférentiels sont choisis parmi : - Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, - Ethylhexyl Salicylate, - Homosalate, - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, - Octocrylene, - Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, - Benzophenone-3, - Benzophenone-4, - Benzophenone-5, - 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle, - 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor, - Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, - Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate, - Méthylène bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphénol, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, - Ethylhexyl Triazone, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, - 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino dineopentyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4,6-tris-(4'-amino düsobutyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis-(4'-dineopentyl aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(4'-n-butyl aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, - 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, - 2,4,6-tris-(di-phenyl)-triazine, - 2,4,6-tris-(ter-phenyl)-triazine, - Drometrizole Trisiloxane, - Polysilicone-15, - 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, - 2,4-bis-[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine, - and their mixtures.

[0197] The particularly preferred organic filters are chosen from: - Ethylhexyl Salicylate, - Homosalate, - Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, - Octocrylene, - 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle, - Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, - Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, - Ethylhexyl Triazone, - Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, - 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4’-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{ 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-l-[(trimethylsilyl-oxy]-disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine, - Drometrizole Trisiloxane, - et leurs mélanges.

[0198] The inorganic UV filters used according to the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 pm and even more preferably between 0.01 and 0.2 pm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 pm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 pm.

[0199] They may be chosen in particular from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof.

[0200] Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are described in particular in patent application EP 0 518 773. As commercial pigments, We can mention the products sold by the companies Sachtleben Pigments, Tayca, Merck and Degussa.

[0201] Metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

[0202] Coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0203] Coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated with: - silica, such as the "Sunveil®" product from the company Ikeda, - of silica and iron oxide, such as the product "Sunveil F®" from the company Ikeda, - of silica and alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA®" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SA" from the company Tayca, "Tioveil" from the company Tioxide, - alumina, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)®" and "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)®" from Ishihara, and "UVT 14 / 4" from Sachtleben Pigments, - alumina and aluminum stearate, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T®, MT 100 TX®, MT 100 Z®, MT-01®" from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10 W®" and "Solaveil CT 100®" from Uniqema and the product "Eusolex T-AVO®" from Merck, - of silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product "MT-100 AQ®" from the company Tayca, - of alumina and aluminum laurate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 S®" from the company Tayca, - iron oxide and iron stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F®" from the company Tayca, - zinc oxide and zinc stearate, such as the product "BR 351®" from the company Tayca, - of silica and alumina and treated with silicone, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 600 SAS®", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS®" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 SAS®" from the company Tayca, - of silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with silicone, such as the product "STT-30-DS®" from the company Titan Kogyo, - of silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product "UV-Titan X 195®" from the company Sachtleben Pigments, - alumina and treated with silicone, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (S)®" from Ishihara, or "UV Titan M 262®" from Sachtleben Pigments, - triethanolamine, such as the product "STT-65-S" from Titan Kogyo, - stearic acid, such as the product "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)®" from Ishihara, - sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W®" from Tayca, - TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane, sold under the trade name "T 805®" by the company Degussa Silices, - TiO2 treated with polydimethylsiloxane, sold under the trade name "70250 Cardre UF TiO2SI3®" by the company Cardre, - TiO2 anatase / rutile treated with polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane, sold under the trade name "Microtitanium Dioxide USP Grade Hydrophobie®" by the company Color Techniques, - TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina, sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-200-LQ-(WD) by Croda, - TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone, sold under the trade name Solaveil CT-12W-LQ-(WD) by Croda, - TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name LL 5 Titanium Dioxide CR 50, - TiO2 coated with C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminium hydroxide, sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo under the name PFX-5 TiO2 CR-50.

[0204] Other examples include TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese, and more particularly manganese. Preferably, these doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides, including caprylic / capric acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also include one or more dispersing agents, such as a sorbitan ester like sorbitan isostearate, a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol ester like TRLPPG3 Myristylether Citrate, and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles includes at least one dispersing agent selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid and glycerol esters.One can cite in particular the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRLPPG-3 Myristylether Citrate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate and Sorbitan Isostearate, INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) TRLPPG-3 Myristylether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, as the product sold under the trade name Optisol TD50® by the company Croda.

[0205] Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are, for example, sold by Tayca under the trade names "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT600 B®", by Degussa under the name "P 25", by Wackher under the name "Transparent Titanium Oxide PW®", by Miyoshi Kasei under the name "UFTR®", by Tomen under the name "ITS®" and by Tioxide under the name "Tioveil AQ".

[0206] Uncoated zinc oxide pigments include, for example: - those marketed under the name "Z-cote" by the company Sunsmart; - those marketed under the name "Nanox®" by the company Elementis; - those marketed under the name "Nanogard WCD 2025®" by the company Nanophase Technologies.

[0207] Coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: - those marketed under the name "Zinc Oxide CS-5®" by the company Toshibi (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogenesiloxane); - those marketed under the name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN®" by the company Nanophase Technologies (in 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN®, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate); - those marketed under the name "Daitopersion Zn-30®" and "Daitopersion Zn-50®" by the company Daito (dispersions in cyclopolymethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane, containing 30% or 50% of zinc oxides coated by silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); - those marketed under the name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO®" by the company Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); - those marketed under the name "SPD-Z1®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated by silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); - those marketed under the name "Escalol Z100®" by the company ISP (ZnO treated with alumina and dispersed in the mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene copolymer / methicone); - those marketed under the name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10®" by the company Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); - those marketed under the name "Nanox Gel TN®" by the company Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alcohol benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate).

[0208] Uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name "Colloidal Cerium Oxide®" by the company Rhône Poulenc.

[0209] Uncoated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2002® (FE 45B®)", "Nanogard Iron Fe 45 BL AQ", "Nanogard Fe 45R AQ®", "Nanogard WCD 2006® (FE 45R®)", or by the company Mitsubishi under the name "TY-220®".

[0210] Coated iron oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Arnaud under the names "Nanogard WCD 2008 (FE 45B FN)®", "Nanogard WCD 2009® (FE 45B 556®)", "Nanogard FE 45 BL 345®", "Nanogard FE 45 BL®", or by the company BASF under the name "Oxyde De Fer Transparent®".

[0211] We can also mention mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, sold by the company Ikeda under the name "Sunveil A®", as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone such as the product "M 261®" sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin such as the product "M 211®" sold by the company Sachtleben Pigments.

[0212] According to the invention, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

[0213] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises one or more lipophilic UV filters.

[0214] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV filters selected from lipophilic UV-A filters and / or lipophilic UV-B filters.

[0215] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV filters selected from organic UV filters, more preferably selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic derivatives, [3,[3'-diphenylacrylate] derivatives, triazine derivatives and benzylidene camphor derivatives or mixtures thereof, preferably dibenzoylmethane derivatives, triazine derivatives or mixtures thereof.

[0216] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more UV filters selected from Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl triazone, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] According to one embodiment, the quantity of the organic UV filter(s) present in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, it can range from 1% to 5% by weight, or even from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0218] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of UV filters less than or equal to 10%, plus preferably less than or equal to 5%, better less than or equal to 3%, even better less than or equal to 1%.

[0219] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral UV filter.

[0220] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise the compound 2-ethoxyethyl(2Z)-cyano{3-[(3-methoxypropyl)-amino]cyclohex-2-en-l-ylidene}ethanoate, preferably the composition does not comprise merocyanine.

[0221] According to a particular embodiment, the quantity of the mineral UV filter(s) present in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, it can range from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0222] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more organic UV filters and one or more mineral UV filters.

[0223] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises an association of UV filters as described in French patent FR 2 977 490, application WO 2013 / 004777 or US application 2014 / 0134120. Hydrophilic Gelling / Thickening Agent

[0224] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one hydrophilic gelling (or thickening) agent, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.

[0225] Examples of hydrophilic gelling agents include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C 10-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) by Goodrich, polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, possibly crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of a W / O emulsion,such as those marketed under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic, polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, scleroglucan gum, alginates, modified celluloses, and mixtures thereof. The quantity of gelling agents depends on the desired purpose.

[0226] More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharide biopolymers such as scleroglucan gum.

[0227] According to one embodiment, the quantity of hydrophilic gelling agents ranges for example from 0.01 to 10% and for example from 0.05 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional asset(s)

[0228] The composition may also include at least one additional active ingredient.

[0229] Examples of active ingredients include moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents, desquamating agents, anti-aging agents, mattifying agents; healing agents; preservatives such as antibacterial agents; and mixtures thereof.

[0230] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of at least one active ingredient, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of at least one active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] The compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; emollients; sequestrants; antioxidants; fillers; free radical scavengers; essential oils; perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; and mixtures thereof. The total quantities of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields concerned. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired purpose and may, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0232] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.

[0233] The quantities of these different active ingredients are those classically used in the fields concerned. In particular, these quantities vary according to the intended purpose and can, for example, range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0234] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention is aqueous and comprises one or more surfactants, preferably selected from non-ionic and / or anionic surfactants. In particular, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably liquid at 20 °C and atmospheric pressure.

[0235] The compositions according to the invention may also be presented in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O / W, W / W, W / W / W or W / W / W) such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.

[0236] A composition according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, for example an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, a gel, by example of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsified gel, an aqueous composition, or even in the form of a gel / gel type composition.

[0237] Preferably, the composition is an emulsion, in particular a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, more preferably oil-in-water.

[0238] In the case of a direct emulsion, the pH of the composition according to the invention is generally between 3 and 12 approximately, preferably between 5 and 11 approximately, and even more particularly from 5.5 to 8, better where the pH is between 5 and 7.

[0239] A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably a cosmetic composition for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the body or face, preferably of the face.

[0240] Such compositions as defined above can in particular be implemented for cosmetic use according to the invention.

[0241] Thus, the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably for the care, in particular of the skin of the body and / or face.

[0242] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials, in particular skin, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials, a composition as defined above.

[0243] Preferably, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the body and / or face, comprising at least one step of application on said keratinous materials, of a composition such as defined above.

[0244] Cosmetic processes for makeup and / or care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, are non-therapeutic.

[0245] In particular, the present invention relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a composition such as described above for the protection of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin against solar radiation.

[0246] The invention also relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a composition as defined above to combat or prevent the signs of photo-induced premature aging of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin.

[0247] Furthermore, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above to prevent premature aging of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, especially on the face, décolleté, arms, hands and / or shoulders, in particular signs of skin aging of actinic origin such as photoaging.

[0248] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above to prevent loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tone and / or suppleness of the skin, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, a dull complexion, and / or a papery appearance of the skin.

[0249] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the protection of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin against solar radiation, comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition according to the invention.

[0250] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and / or treating the signs of aging of a keratinous material comprising the application on the surface of the keratinous material of at least one composition according to the invention.

[0251] For the purposes of the present invention, "prevent" means reducing, at least in part, the risk of a given phenomenon occurring.

[0252] The composition according to the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner by a person skilled in the art.

[0253] The following examples will help to better understand the invention, but are not intended to be limiting. Raw materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name. Examples Photo stabilization of Resveratrol#:

[0254] Compositions A and C were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active ingredient): [Tables 1] INCI Name Composition A (invention) Composition C (comparative) ORYZANOL (a) 1.00 - RESVERATROL (b) 0.25 0.25 TOCOPHEROL (c) 1.00 1.00 ASCORBIC ACID (d) 12.00 12.00 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLM ETHANE 0.50 0.50 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE 0.50 0.50 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 4.00 4.00 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 3.00 3.00 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSI NATE 8.00 8.00 GLYCERIN 5.00 5.00 STEARYL ALCOHOL 0.40 1.00 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMAT E 0.75 0.75 SUCROSE TRISTEARATE 2.00 2.00 SEQUESTRANT 0.50 0.50 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.50 0.50 PRESERVATIVE(S) 1.20 1.20 ADENOSINE 0.10 0.10 SODIUM HYDROXIDE QS pH 6.0 + / -0.3 QS pH 6.0 + / -0.3 WATER QS100 QS100 Photostability measurement protocol

[0255] The compositions are analyzed to evaluate the photostability of resveratrol when the compositions are exposed to UV radiation.

[0256] Each of the compositions A and C was applied independently to an inert support (n=4 trials for each formula tested). The coated supports were exposed to UV radiation of 5 J / cm² for approximately 1 hour. The exposed compositions were then diluted in a solvent (organic solvent) and the solutions were analyzed by HPLC or UPLC chromatographic methods.

[0257] The amount of resveratrol in each of the compositions was measured by HPLC-UV assay at t1 and t2, as shown below: t1: After preparation of the composition and oven curing (serving as a reference); t2: After exposure of the compositions to UV radiation.

[0258] The details of the HPLC-UV tests are as follows:

[0259] Devices / reagents: [Tables 2] Ultra-high-performance LC (UPLC) system, RP18 HPLC column, 1.7, 2.1 mm x 100 mm. Eluent A: 0.1% phosphoric acid. Eluent B: Methanol.

[0260] Conditions: [Tables 3] UV detector 296 nm Column temperature 30°C Flow rate 0.4 mL / min Injection volume 1 pL Mobile phase Gradient A: 0.1% phosphoric acid in water B: Methanol

[0261] The amount of resveratrol contained in compositions A, and C before (tl) and after exposure to UV radiation (t2) was determined by HPLC-UV and the ratio t2 / tl xlOOa was calculated.

[0262] Results:

[0263] The quantities (%) of trans-resveratrol remaining after exposure to UV radiation of compositions A and C are given in the table below: [Tables 4] Composition: Remaining quantity of trans-resveratrol after exposure to UV radiation: A (invention) 73% C (comparative) 63%

[0264] The results obtained show that composition A containing oryzanol increases the photostability of trans-resveratrol compared to the comparative composition C not containing it. Study of pro-collagen production Compositions#:

[0265] Compositions A as defined above and B (“Placebo”) prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% active ingredient):

[0266] [Tables5] INCI NAME Composition B (Placebo) TOCOPHEROL (c) 1.00 ASCORBIC ACID (d) 12 DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE 4.00 DIISOPROPYL SEBACATE 3.00 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE 8.00 GLYCERIN 5.00 STEARYL ALCOHOL 0.40 PRESERVATIVE(S) 1.7 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.50 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.75 SUCROSE TRISTEARATE 2.00 SEQUESTRANT 0.18 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.50 ADENOSINE 0.10 FRAGRANCE 0.20 SODIUM HYDROXIDE QS pH 6 + / - 0.3 WATER QS100 Evaluation of pro-collagen production

[0267] The efficacy of combinations according to the invention and outside the invention are tested by assaying pro-collagen 1 in a culture medium of normal human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA.

[0268] The other materials and protocol used are specified below.

[0269] Experimental protocol Cell culture: - Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) obtained from breast reconstruction; - Culture: 37°C, 5% CO2, - Culture and test medium: MEM (Gibco 21090-022) containing 2 mM L-glutamine (Gibco 25030-024) and 10% Gibco 10270-098, 1 mM Sodium Pyruvate (Gibco 11360-039), IX Non-Essential Amino Acids (Gibco 11140-035), 250 ng / ml Amphotericin B (Gibco 15290-018) and Penicillin / Streptomycin 20U / 20 pg / ml.

[0270] Normal human dermal fibroblasts are seeded in complete MEM medium and incubated for 72 h at 37 °C and 5% CO2. Spreading the formulas#:

[0271] The formulas described above (1.3 mg / cm2.) are distributed homogeneously on PMMA plates: composition A according to the invention and composition B (placebo).

[0272] The cells are pre-treated in the culture medium with the antioxidant(s) (resveratrol and / or tocopherol) for 24 hours and then exposed for 3 consecutive days to a total UVA dose of 20 J / cm² using an Oriel solar simulator equipped with a WG335 filter. Depending on the conditions, a PMMA plate on which the formula comprising the compositions according to the invention or the placebo composition is applied is placed above the cells during the exposure. After each exposure, the cells are treated or not with ascorbic acid (10 pM) and the antioxidant(s) (resveratrol 1 pM and / or tocopherol 1 pM) diluted in the culture medium. The cells are then incubated at 37 °C, 5% CO₂. 48 hours after the last exposure, a cell viability test (XTT Roche cat.l 1465015001) is performed, and the number of cells in each well is evaluated by a Cyquant assay (Molecular Probes C7026).Samples were taken and pro-collagen I was measured by ELISA (Abcam ab210966). The results are from n trials (n= 9).

[0273] Each experimental condition was carried out in duplicates or triplicates and at least 3 independent experiments were carried out.

[0274] The results are presented in the following table.

[0275] [Tableauxô] UVA Composition Treatments Mean pro-collagen 1 (normalized by Cyquant signal and reported to the unexposed control T) % relative to control 0 J 0 J / cm² / Control 100 DMSO 105.44 +5.4% VitC 229.16 +129.2% 20 J / cm² Composition B (Placebo) VitC 91.66 -8.3% VitC + Resveratrol + Tocopherol 115.68 +15.7 Composition A (according to the invention) VitC 112.03 +12.0% VitC + Resveratrol + Tocopherol 144.34 +44.3%

[0276] Under these experimental conditions, the amount of procollagen I synthesized and secreted by fibroblasts 60 h after the last exposure is accurately detectable. Ascorbic acid tested at 10 pM significantly increases the secretion of procollagen I by fibroblasts. UVA significantly decreases the ability of ascorbic acid to induce the secretion of procollagen I.

[0277] The combination according to the invention of ascorbic acid with tocopherol, resveratrol and oryzanol (composition A) makes it possible to increase the secretion of pro-collagen I significantly compared to the placebo composition containing only ascorbic acid and tocopherol (composition B) under similar cell treatment conditions under intense UVA irradiation.

[0278] The above-mentioned tests demonstrated the action of vitamin C, resveratrol, and tocopherol on procollagen synthesis. Furthermore, oryzanol enables the photostabilization of resveratrol in the composition.

[0279] Thus, the combination comprising ascorbic acid, tocopherol, resveratrol and oryzanol makes it possible to increase the secretion of procollagen under UVA irradiation (Composition A according to the invention).

Claims

1. Demands Composition, particularly cosmetic, comprising: (a) at least one organic acid ester of formula (I), or one of its geometric isomers, of its acid or base salts, organic or mineral, or of its solvates, in particular hydrates: formula (I) in which: R1, R4 and R5 represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, or an (Ci-C6)alkoxy group, in particular an (C1-C4)alkoxy group, and preferably a methoxy; R3 represents a hydroxyl group or an (Ci-C6) alkoxy group, preferably a hydroxyl group; and R6 represents a group chosen from: i) (Ci-C6)alkyl, in particular a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, ii) cycloalkyl, possibly substituted by one or more groups selected from (Ci-Cio)alkyl, (C2-CiO)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, and iii) glycosylated; (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives, and their isomeric geometric forms, salts and solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof; (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or a mixture thereof; (d) of ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, any of their derivatives, their salts or mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said organic acid ester is of formula (!'): OR '0 U ) formula (!') in which: R6 represents a group selected from: i) (Ci-C6)alkyl, in particular a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably methyl or ethyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, ii) cycloalkyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups selected from (Ci-Cio)alkyl, (C2-Ci0)alkenyl, hydroxyl, amino, carboxyl and / or amido, preferably hydroxyl and / or carboxyl, and iii) glycosylated; and R7 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C6)alkyl group;preferably said organic acid ester of formula (!') is chosen from methyl ferulate, ethyl ferulate, chlorogenic acid, isopropyl ferulate or ferulic acid and sterol esters, such as Oryzanol, in particular gamma-Oryzanol.;

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of organic acid ester(s) of formula (I) is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 10.0% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 7.0% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein (b) resveratrol, any of its derivatives and their isomeric geometric forms, their salts and their solvates such as the hydrates is (are) chosen from resveratrol, its salts, resveratrol triphosphate, its salts, polydatin, its salts, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from resveratrol, sodium resveratrol triphosphate, polydatin and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein (b) resveratrol, one of its derivatives and their isomeric geometric forms and their solvates such as hydrates, is resveratrol, preferably in its trans form.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 7 to 8 wherein resveratrol, one of its derivative(s) and their isomeric geometric forms, their salts and their solvates such as hydrates or mixtures thereof is (are) present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.001 and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.01 and less than or equal to 5% by weight, better greater than or equal to 0.05 and less than or equal to 2% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight and less than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the tocopherol derivatives are selected from tocopherol esters and ethers, tocotrienols and their optical and geometric isomers, preferably C1-C24 esters and ethers, preferably C2-Ci8, more preferably selected from tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate, or tocopherol nicotinate or mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of (c) tocopherol, one of its derivatives, one of its salts, one of their optical isomers or mixtures thereof in the composition is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.05% and less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 0.1% and less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight and less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, any of their derivatives, and their salts are selected from ascorbic acid, ascorbyl-2 glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and mixtures thereof, preferably ascorbic acid.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the amount of ascorbic acid, its optical isomers, any of their derivatives, their salts or mixtures thereof is greater than or equal to 0.01% and less than or equal to 30% by weight, more particularly greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 20% by weight, and preferably greater than or equal to 5% and less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more UV filters, preferably selected from organic UV filters, more preferably selected from dibenzoylmethane derivatives, salicylic derivatives, [3,[3'-diphenylacrylate] derivatives, triazine derivatives and benzylidene camphor derivatives, better dibenzoylmethane derivatives, triazine derivatives or mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more hydrophilic gelling agents, more preferably selected from modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamides, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid), crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, scleroglucan gum, alginates, modified celluloses, and mixtures thereof, preferably the hydrophilic gelling agent being selected from polysaccharide biopolymers such as scleroglucan gum.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising one or more oil(s) preferably a non-volatile oil, more preferably selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, in particular selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, non-volatile alkanes, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates, and mixtures even better selected from synthetic esters, fatty amides, carbonates and mixtures thereof, such as diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, dicaprylyl carbonate.

14. A process for treating keratinous materials, in particular facial and / or body skin, comprising applying said composition, in particular cosmetic, according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to said keratinous materials, in particular under UV irradiation.

15. Method according to the preceding claim, of cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment to prevent the aging of keratinous materials, particularly under exposure to UV.

16. Use for the treatment of keratinous materials, in particular for the care of the skin of the body and / or face, in particular for the protection of the skin implementing the preferably cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.

17. Use according to the preceding claim, for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment for the care of the skin of the body and / or face, in particular for the protection of the skin, especially under UV exposure.