COMPOSITION COMPRISING A GLYCOLIPID, A CATIONIC POLYMER AND A (POLY)HYDROXYACID

Abstract

COMPOSITION COMPRISING A GLYCOLIPID, A CATIONIC POLYMER, AND A (POLY)HYDROXYACIDE. The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one (poly)hydroxyacid. The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide at least an acceptable, and preferably good, user experience. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING A GLYCOLIPID, A CATIONIC POLYMER AND A (POLY)HYDROXYACID technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising a glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, a cationic polymer, and a (poly)hydroxy acid, as well as a cosmetic process using the composition. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Cleansing the skin is very important for facial care. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, residues from daily cosmetic products and makeup, accumulate in skin folds and can clog pores and lead to the appearance of blemishes.

[0003] One way to cleanse the skin satisfactorily is to use foaming cleansers. Foaming cleansers currently available on the market come in the form of soaps, gels, or foaming creams.

[0004] The formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed taking environmental issues into account, is becoming a major objective in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0005] It is, therefore, essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions, such as a new cleansing composition, with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin.

[0007] Biosurfactants such as glycolipids, in particular rhamnolipids, are materials of natural origin and are known to have unique bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory efficacy, anti-allergic efficacy, antibacterial efficacy, and others.

[0008] Furthermore, acids are widely used in cosmetics. For example, an acid can be functional in unlocking the desmosomes of SC cells, which is a key element for cell connection. Specifically, an acid, such as an α- hydroxy acid or a [3-hydroxy acid, helps to eliminate the connection structure between keratin in the stratum corneum, and presents a gentle keratin fusion effect.

[0009] However, products containing α-hydroxy acid or γ-hydroxy acid at high concentrations lead to irritation, redness, and dryness. On the other hand, polyhydroxy acid is said to be less irritating than conventional hydroxy acids. However, since polyhydroxy acid also has an exfoliating effect, there is concern that it may cause a tingling sensation when used and that it may cause temporary dryness of the skin during the removal of dead skin cells. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0010] There is a need for a stable composition including glycolipids and (poly)hydroxy acid, which does not change appearance at various temperatures.

[0011] In addition, there is a need for a composition which offers at least an acceptable, and preferably good, user experience, even when it contains (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0012] Thus, an objective of the present invention is to propose a stable composition which comprises a glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, as well as (poly)hydroxyacid, and can offer at least an acceptable, and preferably good, user experience.

[0013] The above objective can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cleansing cosmetic composition, comprising: a. at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids; b. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0014] The weight ratio of the quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) / the quantity of (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 7.5 or more.

[0015] The quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0016] The (b) cationic polymer may have a molecular weight greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500, and more preferably greater than 2,000.

[0017] The quantity of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0018] The (c) (poly)hydroxyacid can be selected from polyhydroxyacids (PHA), α-hydroxy acids, [3-hydroxyacids, and mixtures thereof.

[0019] Polyhydroxy acids may be selected from a dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; a trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; a tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; a pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; a hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid and galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid; maltobionic acid; their derivatives such as their salts or their lactone forms such as gluconolactone or ribonolactone; and mixtures thereof;Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, ribonolactone and mixtures thereof, and more preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.

[0020] The α-hydroxy acids may be selected from: glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures; preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and their salts;more preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts and mixtures, and even more preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid and / or glycolic acid;

[0021] and / or

[0022] The [3-hydroxy acids may be selected from: salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably selected from salicylic acid, 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5- (n-heptyloxy) salicylic; and more preferentially, the [3-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0023] The (c) (poly)hydroxyacid may be selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid and a mixture thereof.

[0024] The quantity of (c) (poly)hydroxyacid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0025] The weight ratio of (c) (poly)hydroxyacids / the amount of (b) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 1 or more, preferably 5 or more, and more preferably 10 or more.

[0026] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (d) at least one anionic surfactant, preferably selected from amino acid surfactants and taurate surfactants.

[0027] The (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of a keratinous material such as skin, comprising:

[0029] the application to keratinous material of the composition according to the present invention; and

[0030] optionally the elimination of the keratinous material composition. Best embodiment of the invention

[0031] After extensive research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a stable composition which includes a glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, as well as (poly)hydroxyacid, and can offer at least an acceptable, and preferably good, user experience.

[0032] Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids; b. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

[0033] The composition according to the present invention is stable.

[0034] The composition according to the present invention is stable so that the appearance of the the composition does not change significantly at various temperatures, for example at cold temperatures such as -5°C and 4°C, as well as room temperature (25°C), for extended periods of time. For example, if the composition according to the present invention is transparent, it can maintain its transparent appearance at various temperatures for a long time.

[0035] The composition according to the present invention can offer at least an acceptable, and preferably good, user experience, such as the absence of squeaking, a feeling of hydration and a smooth texture.

[0036] For example, when the composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin and rinsed from the skin with water, the composition according to the present invention can offer the skin a good feeling of hydration and a good smooth finish.

[0037] The composition according to the present invention may also provide additional effects.

[0038] Since glycolipids such as rhamnolipids have bioactivities, such as anti-inflammatory efficacy, anti-allergic efficacy and antibacterial efficacy, an inclusion of (b) glycolipid provided by the composition according to the present invention would be useful for taking care of a keratinous material such as skin.

[0039] Since glycolipids, including (a) glycolipid, can function as (anionic) surfactants, they could also offer enhanced cleansing effects. Thus, the composition according to the present invention would also be useful for cleansing keratinous material such as skin.

[0040] (a) Glycolipid can be derived from natural and renewable materials and is biodegradable. Moreover, since polylysins and chitosans can be obtained from natural resources, (b) cationic polymer is an environmentally friendly ingredient. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include environmentally friendly ingredients.

[0041] The present invention will be explained in more detail below. [Composition]

[0042] The composition according to the present invention comprises: a. at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof; b. at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and c. at least one (poly)hydroxy acid. (Glycolipid)

[0043] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one glycolipid. Only one type of glycolipid may be used, or two or more different types of glycolipids may be used in combination.

[0044] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more sugar compounds are attached.

[0045] According to the present invention, the (a) glycolipid is selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from rhamnolipids.

[0046] Sophorolipids:

[0047] The (a) glycolipid may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose fraction and may be represented by the general formula (II):

[0048] in which:

[0049] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0050] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, comprising from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group,

[0051] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, containing from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0052] provided that the total number of carbon atoms in groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18,

[0053] - R7 represents a hydrogen atom,

[0054] -8 represents a hydroxyl group OH,

[0055] or R7 and R8 together form a lactone ring.

[0056] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III): (III)

[0057] in which:

[0058] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above

[0059] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0060] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example, Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0061] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used in mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

[0062] Examples of sophorolipids that can be used include the product sold under the name Sopholiances by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.

[0063] Rhamnolipids:

[0064] The (a) glycolipid can be selected from the rhamnolipids.

[0065] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0066] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxylated] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.

[0067] Preferably, the mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI): n

[0068] in which:

[0069] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0070] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0071] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical that is simply, doubly or triply unsaturated,

[0072] and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.

[0073] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) protects mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it protects di-rhamnolipids.

[0074] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

[0075] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0076] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0077] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0078] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different, comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical simply, doubly or triply unsaturated, as well as their salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0079] The glycosidic linkage between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration and is preferentially in alpha configuration.

[0080] In the context of the present invention,

[0081] - the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylates with an organic or inorganic cation, and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

[0082] - the solvated forms of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of fatty acids being preferably in the form of R enantiomers, and

[0083] - the term "alkyl" radical designates a saturated, linear aliphatic group or branched; for example, an alkyl group in Ci-C2o having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl group.

[0084] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0085] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0086] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0087] - Ri and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from among the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3, o denoting an integer from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0088] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0089] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0090] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0091] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of the following formula (VII):

[0092]

[0093]

[0094]

[0095]

[0096]

[0097]

[0098]

[0099]

[0100] in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1, - n denotes an integer equal to 1, - Ri is a radical (CH2)P-CH3, where p is an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, where q is an integer ranging from 1 to 23, preferably from 4 to 12, and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers. By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipides of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the present invention, particular mention may be made of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below. The formula di-RL-CXCY is a variant of writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4. [Table 1] Table 1 Compounds DCRL-CXCY P4 «L-CÎSC16 UU

[0101] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.

[0102] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the present invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0103] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8, or one of its salts, solvated or optically isomers.

[0104] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 being selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0105] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0106] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;

[0107] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

[0108] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0110] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids,

[0111] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of the rhamnolipids, and

[0112] - from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% % to 10% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0113] Rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to the person skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0114] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0115] The product sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipide.

[0116] The amount of (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] The quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0118] The quantity of the (a) glycolipid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity. (Cationic Polymer)

[0120] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof. Only one type of such cationic polymer may be used, or two or more different types of such cationic polymers may be used in combination.

[0121] A cationic polymer can have a positive charge density. The charge density of (a) the cationic polymer can be between 0.01 meq / g and 20 meq / g, preferably between 0.05 and 15 meq / g, and more preferably between 0.1 and 10 meq / g.

[0122] The molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer is less than 20,000, preferably less than 15,000 and, more preferably, less than 10,000. In other words, the (b) cationic polymer may be a low molecular weight chitosan.

[0123] The molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer may be greater than 1,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and, more preferably, greater than 2,000.

[0124] Thus, the molecular weight (Da) of the (b) cationic polymer can be greater than 1,000 and less than 20,000, preferably greater than 1,500 and less than 15,000, and more preferably greater than 2,000 and less than 10,000.

[0125] Unless otherwise specified in the descriptions, "molecular weight" means an average molecular weight by weight. The molecular weight can be measured or determined by gel permeation chromatography, for example in accordance with ASTM D5296-19.

[0126] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from polylysines.

[0127] Polylysines are formed by the condensation of several amino acids of lysine. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine, which can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysines are typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water.

[0128] Polylysine can be, for example, an epsilon-polylysine (or designated as "e-polylysine"), which is a condensation of amino groups in the e position and carboxyl groups of lysines, or an alpha-polylysine (or designated as "a-polylysine"). Polylysine is a condensation of amino groups in the α position and carboxyl groups of lysines. It is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine is generally a condensate of L-lysines, that is, poly L-lysine.

[0129] Examples of polylysine include:

[0130] - Epsilon-poly-L-lysine from JNC CORPORATION which is a 25% solution of Epsilon-poly-L-lysine having a weight-average molecular weight of approximately 4,700 in aqueous solution; and

[0131] - Polylysine from Shandong Freda Biotechnology which is in the form of a white to creamy yellow powder and has a molecular weight between 4130 and 5776.

[0132] According to a particular embodiment, the polylysine may be a modified polylysine, for example, a fatty chain polylysine as described in application FR 2889448, a guanidine or biguanidine function polylysine as described in application FR 2851465, a thiolated polylysine as described in application FR2853533.

[0133] Polylysine can be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. Salts added with an acid include, for example, salts of hydrochloric or hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, para-toluenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid; or salts of fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18-methylicosanoic acid. Salts added with a base include, for example, a sodium salt, a calcium salt, or a hydroxyalkylamine salt, for example, of N-methylglucamine, aminopropanediol, or triethanolamine.

[0134] In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the polylysine of the present invention is present as a single molecule in the composition, or is not covalently bonded to other compounds. In one embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bonded to dye compounds. In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is not covalently bonded to polyorganosiloxane compounds. The term "polyorganosiloxane" is well known in the art to designate compounds having a Si-O main chain and organic functional groups attached to the main chain.

[0135] In another embodiment of the present invention, the polylysine is in free form. The term "free form" here indicates that the polylysine is not covalently bonded to other compounds.

[0136] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosans.

[0137] Chitosan is very rare in nature. It is only reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects such as termite queens and in the cell walls of a particular class of fungi, the zygomycetes.

[0138] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs linked together by a [3(1,4) type bond.

[0139] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of [>-D-glucosamine] monomers linked by a glycosidic bond (1—>4).

[0140] The "chitosan" according to the present invention refers to any copolymer formed from constituent N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine motifs, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar motifs (deacetylated motifs) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine motifs (acetylated motifs) linked together by [3(1,4)] type bonds and is a Poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) polymer.

[0141] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, and preferably less than or equal to 10%.

[0142] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated motifs relative to the total number of motifs; it can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) or by titration with a strong base.

[0143] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, it is extracted and purified from safe and abundant foods or from biotechnological fungal sources such as Agaricus bisporus or Aspergillus niger.

[0144] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of an Ascomycete fungus, and in particular Aspergillus niger, and / or a Basidiomycete fungus, and in particular Lentinula edodes (shiitake) and / or Agaricus bisporus. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

[0145] Chitosan may be of GMO (Genetically Modified Organism) origin, but it is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0146] The chitosan according to the present invention is native, that is to say, it is not modified. In particular, it contains no chemical modification.

[0147] One process for preparing chitosan is that described in document WO03 / 068824.

[0148] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in powder form. It is marketed by Glentham Life Science under the name GU3511.

[0149] The amount of (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, even better, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0150] Furthermore, the quantity of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the quantity of the (b) cationic polymer(s) to be 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0151] The amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It may be even more preferable for the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) to be from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0152] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity.

[0153] The (a) glycolipid(s) may be included in the composition according to the present invention in an amount which is equal to or greater than that of the (b) cationic polymer(s).

[0154] Thus, the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) / the quantity of (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, preferably 5 or more and more preferably 7.5 or more. ((Poly)hydroxyacids)

[0155] The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid. Only one type of (poly)hydroxy acid may be used, but two or more different types of (poly)hydroxy acids may be used in combination.

[0156] Preferably, (c) (poly)hydroxyacid is chosen from polyhydroxyacids (PHA), α-hydroxy acids, [3-hydroxyacids, and mixtures thereof.

[0157] Polyhydroxy acid:

[0158] The term "polyhydroxy acid (PHA)" herein refers to an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxyl groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two groups Carboxyl groups are preferred, with a single carboxyl group being more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferred, and 2 to 6 are even more preferred. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but preferably the PHA contains 3 to 11 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 8.

[0159] The PHA can be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid can be chosen from aliphatic or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. Preferably, the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid is chosen from sugar acids.

[0160] The polyhydroxy acid is advantageously chosen from: a dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; a trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; a tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; a pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; a hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid or galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid, their derivatives in the form of salts or their lactone forms, such as gluconolactone or ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0161] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts, such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts, such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferred. If two or more acid salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0162] Advantageously, the polyhydroxy acid is supplied in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring is preferably saturated and preferably, in this case, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] Preferably, the polyhydroxyacid is thus chosen from: lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention uses just one or several PHAs, so as to select or combine their effects. For example, lactobionic acid, derived from lactose, is moisturizing, antioxidant, and soothing. Gluconic acid and gluconolactone are naturally present in skin cells. Their role is antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

[0165] Preferably, said polyhydroxyacid used in the composition according to the invention is gluconolactone.

[0166] The quantity of PHA in the composition according to the present invention is in the range of 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.2% to 4%, preferably 0.5% to 3%, preferably 1% to 2%, by weight (of active material), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] Hydroxyacid:

[0168] The term “hydroxyacid” here refers to a mono- or polycarboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group that is different from the polyhydroxyacid.

[0169] The hydroxy acid can be chosen from among the α- and γ-hydroxy acids. In a mode In practice, a hydroxy acid can be a mixture of α-hydroxy acids and [3-hydroxy acids]. The α and [3] positions indicate that at least one of the hydroxyl groups occupies an α or [3] position relative to at least one of the carboxyl groups of the acid; that is, it is attached, respectively, either to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl group or to the carbon adjacent to the one bearing the carboxyl group. The acid can be present in a form chosen from among the free acids, their associated salts (such as salts with organic bases and alkali metals), for example, depending on the final pH given to the composition, and optionally the corresponding lactides or lactones (i.e., the form obtained by autoesterification of the molecules).

[0170] The term "α-hydroxy acid", or "AHA", here denotes a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0171] The α-hydroxy acid can be represented by the following chemical formula (I):

[0172] (Ra)(Rb)C(OH)COOH

[0173] where

[0174] Ra and Rb are H, F, Cl, Br, I, an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group in saturated or unsaturated form, isomeric or non-isomeric, linear or branched or cyclic, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and furthermore Ra and Rb may bear OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.

[0175] The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom may be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I, or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl, or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. Alpha hydroxy acids may be present as the free acid or lactone, or as a partial salt with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. Alpha hydroxy acids may exist as stereoisomers such as the D, L, DL, and meso forms.

[0176] When Ra and Rb are alkyls, they can independently be found in any of the groups Ci-C5, C6-Ci0, Cn-Ci5, Ci6-C20, C2i-C25 and C26-C29. Compounds in the chemical formula above therefore include all possible combinations of Ra and Rb. Included in the above is a subgenus of compounds having Ra and Rb independently chosen from C1-C12.

[0177] Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for Raet Rb include methyl, ethyl, propyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl and ethoxyl.

[0178] The alpha hydroxy acids of the first group can be subdivided into 1. Alkyl alpha hydroxy acids, 2. aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids, 3. polyhydroxy alpha hydroxy acids, 4. Alpha polycarboxylic hydroxy acids, and 5. Miscellaneous alpha hydroxy acids.

[0179] The following are the representative alpha hydroxy acids in each subgroup. 1. Alpha alkyl hydroxy acids: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid), 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyl lactic acid), 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha hydroxyarachidonic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (cerebronic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosenoic acid (alpha hydroxynervonic acid), and 2,4-Dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanoic acid (pantoic acid) 2. Aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzyl acid), 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2-phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid) and 4-hydroxymandelic acid. 3. Polyhydroxy alpha hydroxy acids: 2,3-Dihydroxypropanoic acid (glyceric acid); 2,3,4-Trihydroxybutanoic acid (isomers; erythronic acid, threonic acid); 2,3,4,5-Tetrahydroxypentanoic acid (isomers; ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-Pentahydroxyhexanoic acid (isomers; allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, talonic acid); acid 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (isomers; glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, mannoheptonic acid, etc.) 4. Alpha hydroxy polycarboxylic acids: 2-hydroxypropane-1,3-dioic acid (tartronic acid); 2-hydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (malic acid); 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutane-1,4-dioic acid (citramalic acid); 2,3-dihydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (tartaric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxypentane-1,5-dioic acid (isomers; ribaric acid, arabic acid, xylaric acid, lyxaric acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexane-1,6-dioic acid (isomers; glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, allaric acid, altraric acid, gularic acid, idaric acid, talaric acid); 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (citric acid); l-hydroxy-l,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (isocitric acid); l-hydroxy-l,2,4-butanetricarboxylic acid (homoisocitric acid); 2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyl-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (n-hexadecyl citric acid; agaricic acid). 5. Various alpha-hydroxy acids: glyceruronic acid, erythronic acid, threononic acid; 2,3,4-trihydroxypentanuronic acids (isomers; riburonic acid, arabinuronic acid, xyluronic acid, lyxuronic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexanurononic acid (isomers; alluronic acid, altruronic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptanuronic acid (isomers; alloheptanuronic acid, altroheptanuronic acid, glucoheptanuronic acid, mannoheptanuronic acid, guloheptanuronic acid, idoheptanuronic acid, galactoheptanuronic acid, taloheptanuronic acid).

[0180] The α-hydroxy acids may be selected from: glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures; preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and their salts;more preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, the acid; citric acid, lactic acid, their salts and mixtures, and even more preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid and / or glycolic acid.

[0181] Preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid, and a mixture thereof, more preferably from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconic acid, and a mixture thereof, even more preferably from lactic acid.

[0182] The term “[3-hydroxy acid”, or “BHA”, here denotes a carboxylic acid which has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

[0183] Examples of 3-hydroxy acids include, without limitation, salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular its alkylated derivatives of formula (I) below or a salt of such a derivative:

[0185] - RI represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula:

[0186] -O-CO-R4

[0187] wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted by an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms,

[0188] R2 and R3, independently of each other, are in position 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the benzene ring and represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a radical:

[0189] -(O)n-(CO)m-R5

[0190] in which n and m, independently of each other, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1; provided that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;

[0191] R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a linear, branched or cyclized saturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an unsaturated radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds, the radicals being able to be substituted by at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals, hydroxyl in free form or esterified by an acid containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl in free form or esterified by a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0192] The salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is preferably such that RI represents a hydroxyl radical, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 is at position 5 of the benzene ring and represents a -CO-R5 radical in which R5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical containing from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

[0193] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is selected from salicylic acid esters such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-Propanylsalicylic acid, 5-n-Hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-Oleoylsalicylic acid and 5-Benzoylsalicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts, and mixtures thereof. This includes, in particular, 5-n-Octanoylsalicylic acid (INCI: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid).

[0194] The [3-hydroxy acids can be selected from: salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably selected from salicylic acid, 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5-(n-heptyloxy)salicylic acid; and more preferably, the [3-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.

[0195] Preferably, the [3-hydroxy] acid is chosen from the group consisting of salicylic acid, a salicylic acid ester and one of their mixtures, more preferably from the group consisting of salicylic acid, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, and one of their mixtures, even more preferably from salicylic acid.

[0196] Preferably, (c) (poly)hydroxyacid is chosen from the lactones of polyhydroxy acids, and more preferentially gluconolactone.

[0197] Preferably, (c) (poly)hydroxyacid is chosen from among the α-hydroxyacids, more preferably from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, and one of their mixtures, and even more preferably from lactic acid.

[0198] Preferably, (c) (poly)hydroxyacid is chosen from among the [3-hydroxyacids, more preferably from the group consisting of salicylic acid, an ester of acid salicylic, and one of their mixtures, and even more preferentially among salicylic acid.

[0199] Preferably, (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from polyhydroxy acid lactones, α-monohydroxy acids, [3-monohydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0200] More preferably, (c) (poly)hydroxyacid is chosen from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid, and one of their mixtures.

[0201] The quantity of (c) (poly)hydroxyacid(s) in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] The quantity of (c) (poly)hydroxyacid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0203] The quantity of (c) (poly)hydroxyacid(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0204] In the context of this patent memorandum, any combination of the above upper limit values ​​and lower limit values ​​may be available to represent the preferred range of quantity.

[0205] The (c) (poly)hydroxyl acid(s) may be included in the composition according to the present invention in an amount which is equal to or greater than that of the (b) cationic polymer(s).

[0206] Thus, the weight ratio of the quantity of (c) (poly)hydroxyl acid(s) / the quantity of (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, more preferably 5 or more, more preferably 7.5 or more, and even more preferably 10 or more. (Anionic surfactant)

[0207] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one anionic surfactant. Only one type of anionic surfactant may be used, or two or more different types of anionic surfactants may be used in combination.

[0208] Preferably, the (d) anionic surfactant is selected from amino acid surfactants, taurate surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0209] Amino acid surfactant:

[0210] The term "amino acid surfactant" herein refers to an anionic surfactant based on amino acids or their derivatives. Typically, an amino acid surfactant is an anionic surfactant comprising at least one amino fraction and at least one carboxylic acid fraction in the form of a carboxylate. An amino acid surfactant may have two or more amino fractions and / or two or more carboxylic acid fractions in the form of carboxylates. An amino acid surfactant may also be called an amino acid-based surfactant.

[0211] The amino acid surfactant here is different from the taurate surfactant.

[0212] The amino acid surfactant may preferably be chosen from derivatives of amino acids amino acids. The amino acid derivative can be more preferably chosen from among the salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids, for example, alkali metal salts and alkaline earth metal salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids, such as sodium salts, potassium salts, magnesium salts, and calcium salts of amino acids and N-acylated amino acids. Thus, the amino acid surfactant is preferably an N-acyl amino acid surfactant.

[0213] The acyl group that forms the N-acyl fraction of amino acid derivatives can be a C1-C30 acyl group, preferably a C6-C28 acyl group and, more preferably, a C12-C24 acyl group.

[0214] The amino acid surfactant may even more preferentially be chosen from the group consisting of glutamates, N-acylated glutamates, aspartates, N-acylated aspartates and their salts.

[0215] The carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means such as the neutralization of the respective amino acid with a base. The amine group located on the α-carbon or [3-carbon] of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction, yielding the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, namely the amino acid surfactant. Suitable acyl halides for the acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides. Acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8- to C22 fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide).Representative acyl halides include, but are not limited to, acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride), cocoyl chloride (coconut oil-derived fatty acid chlorides), tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride), hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride), octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride), 9-octadecanoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride), eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride), docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride), and any. of their mixtures. Other acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides, and iodides of the fatty acids listed above. A method for preparing acyl halides, as well as an alternative method for acylating amino acids, is presented in US patent application publication no. 2008 / 0200704, published on August 21, 2008.

[0216] In one embodiment, said anionic amino acid-based surfactant is represented by formula (A): O (A) "'N" XY

[0217] in which:

[0218] - Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, having 8 with 22 carbon atoms,

[0219] - X is a hydrogen or methyl group,

[0220] - n is equal to 0 or 1,

[0221] - Y is chosen from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3 )CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4 OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3 NHC(NH)NH2, -CH2C(O)O M+' -(CH2)2C(O)OH and -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and

[0222] - M is a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter-anion, such that by example sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0223] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the amino fatty acid of formula (A):

[0224] - Z represents a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl group from C8 to C18, in particular a cocoyle group,

[0225] - X is hydrogen,

[0226] - n equals 0,

[0227] - Y is hydrogen, and

[0228] - M is a salt-forming cation in which COO is the counter-anion, such that by example sodium, potassium, ammonium or triethanolamine.

[0229] Examples of amino acid surfactants include the salts of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixtures thereof. More specifically, examples of amino acid surfactants include dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, and capryloyl glutamate of potassium, cocoyl glutamate de potassium, lauroyl glutamate de potassium, myristoyl glutamate de potassium, stéaroyl glutamate de potassium, undécylénoyl glutamate de potassium, capryloyl glutamate de sodium, cocoyl glutamate de sodium, lauroyl glutamate de sodium, myristoyl glutamate de sodium, olivoyl glutamate de sodium, palmitoyl glutamate de sodium, stéaroyl glutamate de sodium, undécylénoyl glutamate de sodium, [3-alaninate de cocoyl méthyle, [3-alaninate de lauroyle, [3-alaninate de lauroyl méthyle, [3-alaninate de myristoyle, lauroyl méthyl [3-alaninate de potassium, cocoyl alaninate de sodium, cocoyl méthyl [3-alaninate de sodium et myristoyl méthyl [3-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de sodium, cocoyl glycinate de sodium, myristoyl glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de potassium, cocoyl glycinate de potassium, lauroyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate de sodium,sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium oleoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate disodium, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof. ,

[0230] Reference may be made to commercially available amino acid surfactants, for example:

[0231] - sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol;

[0232] - alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken; or sodium cocoyl alaninates, sold under the name Amilite® ACS-12 by Ajinomoto;

[0233] - glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the Acylglutamate CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by Ajinomoto; disodium glutamates, disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the name Amisoft® HS-21P by Ajinomoto, and mixtures thereof; sodium cocoyl glutamate, sold under the name Plantapon® Amino

[0234]

[0235]

[0236]

[0237]

[0238]

[0239]

[0240]

[0241]

[0242] SF-N by BASF Japan; disodium cocoyl glutamate, sold under the name Plantapon® Amino SCG-L by BASF Japan; and disodium / sodium cocoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft® CS-22 by Ajinomoto; - aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi; - glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto; - citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated coconut alcohols (9 mol), sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and - galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl-galactoside-uronate, sold by Soliance. It is preferable that the amino acid surfactant be chosen from among the glutamates, and more preferentially from the group consisting of disodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, and one of their mixtures. Taurate surfactant: The term "taurate surfactant" here refers to an anionic surfactant containing at least one taurate fraction. Taurate surfactant may also be called a taurate-based surfactant. The surfactant taurate is preferably an acyl taurate, more preferably an N-acyl taurate, and even more preferably an N-acyl methyl taurate (i.e. N-acyl-N-methyltaurate). Taurate surfactants include those of Formula I, listed below:

[0243]

[0244]

[0245]

[0246]

[0247]

[0248] in which - R7 is (C8-C22)alkyl; - R8 is H or (Ci-C4)alkyl; - R9 and R10 are each independently H or (Ci-C4)alkyl; and - M+ is a sodium, potassium or ammonium cation. The surfactant taurate can be chosen from the group consisting of taurate, caproyl taurate, lauroyl taurate, myristoyl taurate, palmitoyl taurate, stearoyl taurate, oleoyl taurate, cocoyl taurate, methyl taurate, methyl taurate of coconut oil fatty acid, methyl taurate of palm kernel oil fatty acid, methyl taurate of hydrogenated palm kernel oil fatty acid, methyl taurate of hydrogenated palm kernel oil fatty acid, methyl taurate of hydrogenated beef tallow fatty acid, caproyl methyl taurate, lauroyl methyl taurate, myristoyl methyl taurate, palmitoyl methyl taurate, stearoyl methyl taurate, oleoyl methyl taurate, cocoyl methyl taurate, methyltaurine cocoyl methyl taurate and their salts.

[0249] For example, taurate surfactants include sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, potassium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, calcium methyl lauroyl taurate, potassium methyl lauroyl taurate, and ammonium methyl lauroyl taurate. Similarly, in some cases, the taurate surfactant is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.

[0250] Examples of the surfactant taurate include, but are not limited to:

[0251] - the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pâté® by Clariant;

[0252] - sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol;

[0253] - sodium methylstearoyltaurate sold under the name Nikkol SMT®; and

[0254] - sodium palmitoylmethyltaurate, sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol.

[0255] The quantity of the anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] The quantity of the anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] The quantity of the anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0258] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) and (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0259] In another embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio of the quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) / total quantity of (a) glycolipid(s) and (d) anionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1 to 1, preferably from 0.15 to 0.75, and more preferably from 0.2 to 0.5. (Water)

[0260] The composition according to the present invention may include (e) water.

[0261] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0262] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less and, more preferably, 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0263] The quantity of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention can be from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight and, more preferably, from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (pH)

[0264] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be from 4 to 8, preferably from 4.5 to 7.5 and more preferably from 5 to 7.

[0265] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be corrected by adding at least one alkali and / or at least one acid, different from or similar to the (poly)hydroxy acid mentioned above. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be corrected by adding at least one buffering agent. (Optional ingredient)

[0266] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients typically used in cosmetics, specifically cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants / emulsifiers; anionic surfactants other than (a) glycolipid or (d) anionic surfactant; hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners derived, for example, from synthetic thickeners; volatile or non-volatile organic solvents; polyols; cationic polymers other than polylysines or chitosans; anionic polymers; amphoteric polymers; non-ionic polymers; silicones and silicone derivatives; fatty acids; natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (b) the cationic polymer; waxes; preservatives; antioxidants; salts; and the like, within a range that does not alter the effects of the present invention.

[0267] The composition according to the present invention may comprise the optional ingredient or ingredients) in an amount of 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 40% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0268] The amount of silicone(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and even better, 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention not include silicone. (Methods of implementation)

[0269] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0270] from 0.1% to 15% by weight of (a) at least one glycolipid selected from sophorolipids, rhamnolipids, and mixtures thereof;

[0271] from 0.05% to 5% by weight of (b') at least one polylysine having a molecular weight greater than 1000; and

[0272] from 0.1% to 15% by weight of (c1) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid selected from a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), α-hydroxy acids, 3-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0273] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0274] of 1% to 10% by weight of (a1) at least one rhamnolipid;

[0275] of 0.1% to 3% by weight of (b”) at least one polylysine having a molecular weight greater than 1,000 and less than 20,000; and

[0276] from 0.1% to 10% by weight of (c") at least one (poly)hydroxy acid selected from the group consisting of gluconolactone, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and one of their mixtures. [Preparation]

[0277] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if applicable, as explained above.

[0278] The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.

[0279] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with a conventional mixing means such as a stirrer and homogenizer. Furthermore, heating may not be necessary. [Shape]

[0280] The composition according to the present invention may be in any form.

[0281] For example, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a solution, in particular an aqueous solution, a tonic, a serum or a lotion.

[0282] In another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention can be packaged with an automatic foam pump which allows consumers to use the composition in foam form.

[0283] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a foam.

[0284] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is packaged in automatic foam.

[0285] The composition according to the present invention, before being diluted, for example with water, may have a transparent or translucent appearance, preferably a transparent appearance.

[0286] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (for example, with the HACH 2100Q portable turbidimeter). The turbidity of the composition according to the present invention can be less than 400 NTU (translucent), preferably less than 350 NTU, more preferably less than 300 NTU (transparent). [Cosmetic application]

[0287] The composition according to the present invention can be intended for use as a cosmetic composition. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be intended for application to keratinous material. Keratinous material here means material containing keratin as its principal constituent, and examples thereof include skin, scalp, nails, lips, hair, and the like. Thus, it is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention be used for a cosmetic process on keratinous material, in particular skin.

[0288] Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be a cosmetic composition for the skin, preferably a skin care composition, and more preferably a facial care composition.

[0289] In particular, the composition according to the present invention is useful for cleaning. Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic cleansing composition, more preferably a cosmetic cleansing composition for the skin, and even more preferably a cosmetic cleansing composition for the face. [Cosmetic process and use]

[0290] The present invention also relates to:

[0291] - a cosmetic process for a keratinous material such as skin, comprising: the application of the composition according to the present invention to keratinous material; and optionally the removal of the composition from keratinous material such as skin,

[0292] or

[0293] - a use of the composition according to the present invention for the care or the cleaning of a keratinous material such as skin.

[0294] The cosmetic process here means a non-therapeutic cosmetic process, such as a cosmetic process for the care or cleaning of the surface of a keratinous material such as skin.

[0295] The removal step in the cosmetic process according to the present invention can be carried out, for example, by rinsing the composition according to the present invention with water from a keratinous material such as skin.

[0296] If the removal step is not carried out, the cosmetic process according to the present invention may be useful for the care of keratinous material such as skin, because (a) glycolipid can confer on the keratinous material anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or antibacterial properties, which would be useful, in particular, for the care of acne-prone or sensitive skin.

[0297] Preferably, the composition is removed from keratinous material such as skin.

[0298] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a rinsing step to remove the keratinous material composition, such as skin.

[0299] The present invention relates to the use of the composition as described above for the care or cleaning of the surface of a keratinous material such as skin.

[0300] The present invention also relates to

[0301] the use of (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof,

[0302] in a composition comprising

[0303] (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and their mixtures, and preferably among the rhamnolipids, and

[0304] (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid,

[0305] so that the composition gives a keratinous material improved anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic or antibacterial properties, which would be useful, in particular, for the care of acne-prone and sensitive skin.

[0306] The present invention may also relate to:

[0307] the use of (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof,

[0308] in a composition comprising

[0309] (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and their mixtures, and preferably among the rhamnolipids, and

[0310] (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid,

[0311] in order to stabilize the composition, for example at -5 °C, 4 °C or 25 °C under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 101325 Pa).

[0312] The above explanations concerning (a) glycolipid, (b) cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof, and (c) (poly)hydroxyacid for the composition according to the present invention, may be applied to those in the above use. EXAMPLES

[0313] The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention. Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 [Preparations]

[0314] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients in Table 2 are all based on a "% by weight" of active substances.

[0315] [Table 2] Table 2 Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. comp. 1 Ex. comp. 2 Glycolipids*1 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 Salicylic acid 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Lactic acid 3 - 3 - Gluconolactone - 3 - 3 Polylysine*2 0.26 0.26 - - Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Disodium cocoyl glutamate 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 Sodium cocoyl glutamate 0.43 0.43 0.43 0.43 Glycerin 5 5 5 5 Sodium chloride 3.76 3.76 3.76 3.76 Preservatives qs qs qs pH adjuster qs pH 5.5 ±0.2 qs pH 5.5 ±0.2 qs pH 5.5 ±0.2 qs pH 5.5 ±0.2 Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Stability at -5 °C after 1 month Good Good Poor Fair Stability at 4 °C after 1 month Good Good Poor Poor Stability at 25 °C after 1 month Fair Good Poor Poor Squeaking Good Fair Poor Poor Poor Sensation Hydration Good Good Correct Correct Smooth texture Good Good Correct Correct

[0316] ** sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Rheance One

[0317] *2 sold by Shandong Freda Biotechnology under the name Polylysine [Reviews] (Stability)

[0318] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was stored in a clear glass bottle and kept at -5 °C, 4 °C or 25 °C for 1 month. After 1 month, the appearance of each composition was assessed visually according to the following criteria.

[0319] Good: No precipitation was observed and the original appearance was preserved.

[0320] Correct: A very small amount of white particles was observed at the bottom of the glass bottle

[0321] Bad: A large quantity of white particles was observed at the bottom of the glass bottle

[0322] The results are shown in Table 2. (Sensory evaluation)

[0323] Five professional panelists evaluated the "squeakiness", "moisturizing feel" and "smooth texture" of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 in accordance with the following steps: 1. Each composition was placed in a container with an outlet and a pump so that the composition could be evacuated from the container through the outlet by pushing the pump: 2. A hand was washed with water for 2 seconds; 3. Each composition was dispensed by hand by pushing the pump twice. times ; 4. The hand was massaged to apply the composition to the hand; 5. The composition was rinsed with water (the squeaking was assessed); and 6. The hand was dried by patting it with a paper towel (the sensation hydration and smooth texture were evaluated).

[0324] The evaluation criteria for each of "squeak", "moisturizing sensation" and "smooth texture" were as follows.

[0325] Screeching:

[0326] Good; no squeaking

[0327] Correct; Low squeaking

[0328] Bad; Loud squeaking

[0329] Hydration sensation:

[0330] Good; Increased feeling of hydration

[0331] Correct; No change before and after steps (1) to (6)

[0332] Poor; decreased feeling of hydration

[0333] Smooth texture:

[0334] Good: Very smooth

[0335] Correct; No change before and after steps (1) to (6)

[0336] Bad; Not smooth

[0337] The results are shown in Table 2. (Summary)

[0338] The compositions according to Examples 1-2 have been shown to have good or acceptable stability.

[0339] Comparative Example 1 must be compared to Example 1. The composition according to Comparative Example 1, which did not include polylysine, was unstable. The composition according to Comparative Example 1 provided an inferior feel during use (more squeaky, less moisturizing, and less smooth) than the composition according to Example 1.

[0340] Comparative Example 2 must be compared to Example 2. The composition according to Comparative Example 2, which did not include polylysine, was unstable. The composition according to Comparative Example 2 provided an inferior feel during use (squeaker, less moisturizing, and less smooth) compared to the composition according to Example 2.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cleansing cosmetic composition, comprising: (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids; (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosans, and mixtures thereof; and (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the (b) cationic polymer(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein (c) (poly)hydroxy acid is selected from polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), α-hydroxy acids, [3-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the polyhydroxy acids are selected from a dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; a trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; a tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; a pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; a hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid and galactoheptonic acid; lactobionic acid; maltobionic acid; their derivatives, such as their salts or their lactone forms, such as gluconolactone or ribonolactone; and their mixtures;Preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is chosen from lactobionic acid, gluconic acid, gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably, the polyhydroxy acid is gluconolactone.

5. Composition according to claim 3, wherein: - the α-hydroxy acids are chosen from: glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid; mandelic acid; phenyllactic acid; galacturonic acid; aleuritic acid; tartronic acid; tartaric acid; malic acid; fumaric acid; their salts and mixtures; preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid and their salts;more preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is chosen from glycolic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, their salts and mixtures, and even more preferably, the α-hydroxy acid is lactic acid and / or glycolic acid; and / or - the [3-hydroxy acids are chosen from: salicylic acid and its derivatives, preferably chosen from salicylic acid, 5-(n-octanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-decanoyl)salicylic acid, 5-(n-dodecanoyl)salicylic acid and 5-(n-heptyloxy)salicylic acid, and more preferably, the [3-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid.;

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein (c) (poly)hydroxyacid is selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconolactone, salicylic acid, and a mixture thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition: from 0.01% to 20% by weight of (a) at least one glycolipid selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from rhamnolipids; from 0.01% to 10% by weight of (b) at least one cationic polymer selected from polylysines, chitosanes, and mixtures thereof; and from 0.1% to 20% by weight of (c) at least one (poly)hydroxy acid.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the composition further comprises (d) at least one anionic surfactant, preferably selected from amino acid surfactants and taurate surfactants.