MAKEUP COMPOSITION
The makeup composition addresses transparency, lightweight feel, and sebum control by using a solid emulsion with C15-C19 alkane and silica, enhancing makeup hold and environmental sustainability.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Filing Date
- 2024-09-09
- Publication Date
- 2026-03-13
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup compositions often compromise on desirable attributes such as transparency, lightweight feel, sebum control, and makeup hold, and there is a need for environmentally friendly formulations using renewable raw materials.
A makeup composition comprising a solid emulsion with a continuous oily phase containing C15-C19 alkane and silica, along with optional silicone emulsifiers and pigments, that is free of UV-absorbing composites and supramolecular polymers, providing a transparent, lightweight, and sebum-controlling base or setting product.
The composition offers a light and fresh feel while maintaining makeup blending, sebum control, and improved hold without a white cast, while promoting the use of renewable materials and reducing petrochemical content.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: MAKEUP COMPOSITION technical field
[0001] This disclosure relates to makeup compositions, such as, for example, face makeup compositions that can be worn under or over another makeup composition while remaining transparent on the skin. BACKGROUND
[0002] A person's makeup routine may include combining various products to achieve the desired result, but the process often involves making compromises on various desirable attributes. For example, a makeup base may provide desirable blending but may not be transparent on the skin or may not appear lightweight. A setting product may improve the hold of the underlying makeup but may compromise its ability to absorb sebum.
[0003] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental considerations in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions, preparation processes, and ingredients to meet these environmental concerns.
[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a high naturalness index and / or materials of natural origin, and more specifically, materials of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds. BRIEF SUMMARY
[0005] In various aspects, a makeup composition may be proposed. The makeup composition may be an emulsion, such as a solid emulsion. The makeup composition may include a discrete aqueous phase. The makeup composition may include a continuous oily phase. The continuous oily phase may include an alkane, such as a C15-C19 alkane. The alkane may be present in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight of the makeup composition. The makeup composition may include silica in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight of the makeup composition. The makeup composition may be free of ultraviolet (UV) absorbing composite particles. The makeup composition may be free of supramolecular polymers.
[0006] In certain aspects, the discrete aqueous phase may contain more water, by weight of the makeup composition, than the amount of silica and alkane, separately. In In some cases, the total amount of water in the formula, by weight of the makeup composition, can exceed the total amount of silica and alkane combined. In some cases, the total amount of water in the formula can be 30% to 40% by weight of the makeup composition.
[0007] In some aspects, the makeup composition may include a silicone emulsifier. In various aspects, the makeup composition may include a silicone oil. In some aspects, the makeup composition may include a wax in a total amount of 2% to 5% by weight of the makeup composition. In some aspects, the makeup composition may include a pigment. In some aspects, the makeup composition may include a polyol. In some aspects, the makeup composition may include cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative. In some aspects, the makeup composition may be free of organic UV filters.
[0008] In various aspects, a method for improving skin aesthetics may be proposed. The method may include providing a first makeup composition as disclosed herein and applying the first makeup composition to a user's face. The method may include applying a second makeup composition over the first makeup composition. Alternatively, the method may include applying a second makeup composition to the user's face before applying the first makeup composition, where the first makeup composition is applied over the second makeup composition. The method may include removing the first makeup composition after a period of time, the period of time being between 1 hour and 48 hours. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0009] As used here, the term "alkane" refers to a saturated linear or branched compound consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0010] As used herein, the term "emulsion" refers to a composition containing a discrete phase dispersed in a continuous phase, such as a water-in-oil emulsion, the whole being homogeneous to the naked eye. As used herein, the expression "solid emulsion" refers to an emulsion that does not flow under its own weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0011] As used herein, the expression "free" or "completely free (of a component)" refers to compositions that do not contain the component to any degree measurable by standard means. As used herein, the expression "substantially free (of a component)" refers to compositions that do not contain an appreciable amount of the component, by for example, not more than about 1% by weight, or not more than about 0.5% by weight, or not more than about 0.3% by weight, such as not more than about 0.1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
[0012] As used herein, the term "oil" generally refers to a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; 1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). As used herein, the expression "volatile oil" generally refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil or oils are volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), ranging in particular from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).As used here, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functional groups selected from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic groups. As used here, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more specifically an organopolysiloxane. As used here, the term "phenylated silicone oil" refers to a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.
[0013] As used herein, the term "pigment" refers to particles that impart color to keratinous materials. Their solubility in water at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, preferably less than 0.01%. The term "inorganic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. The term "organic pigment" refers to any pigment that meets the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
[0014] As used herein, the term "wax" generally refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25 °C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to about 30 °C, which can extend up to 200 °C and in particular up to 120 °C. As used herein, the expression "soft wax" refers to waxes that have a melting point below about 65 °C. As used herein, the expression "hard wax" refers to waxes other than soft waxes, that is, waxes that have a melting point equal to or greater than about 65 °C. As used herein, the expression "silicone wax" refers to a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0015] Unless otherwise indicated, all concentrations of use of compounds listed herein refer to the active amount of the compound as a percentage by weight of the makeup composition.
[0016] This disclosure relates to a face makeup product, such as a makeup base and / or setting spray, which provides a light and fresh feel while also offering blending, sebum control and improved hold of makeup applied under or over the product while remaining transparent (e.g., no white cast) on the skin.
[0017] The disclosed makeup composition may be an emulsion. The emulsion is preferably in the form of a solid emulsion. The makeup composition is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil phase. Thus, the makeup composition may include a separate aqueous phase and a continuous oily phase. The continuous oily phase includes an alkane, such as a C15-C19 alkane. The alkane is present in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight of the makeup composition. In addition, the composition may include particles, which may be dispersed within the composition, such as in the continuous oily phase. The particles include silica at 10%-20% by weight of the makeup composition. Alkane
[0018] The continuous fatty phase includes an alkane. The alkane is preferably a C15-C19 alkane.
[0019] There may be a single alkane. There may be a plurality of alkanes. The alkane may be a volatile oil. The alkane may be a non-volatile oil. The alkane may be a wax. Each alkane may have a carbon chain length of 8 to 30 carbons. Each alkane may have a carbon chain length of 10 to 25 carbons. Each alkane may have a carbon chain length of 15 to 19 carbons.
[0020] The alkane may be present in a total amount of 5% to 30% by weight of the makeup composition. The alkane may be present in a total amount of at least 5%, at least 6%, at least 7%, at least 8%, at least 9%, or at least 10% by weight of the makeup composition. The alkane may be present in a total amount of not more than 30%, not more than 29%, not more than 28%, not more than 27%, not more than 26%, not more than 25%, not more than 24%, not more than 23%, not more than 22%, not more than 21%, or not more than 20% by weight of the makeup composition. In a preferred embodiment, the alkane may be present in a total amount of at least 10% to 20% by weight of the makeup composition. Silica
[0021] The makeup composition may include silica. The silica may include a single silica. The silica may include a plurality of silicas.
[0022] The silica may be a silica aerogel. The silica aerogel may be a hydrophobic silica aerogel, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
[0023] The expression "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example, with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si-Rn groups, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.
[0024] The silica may be hydrophobic silica modified on the surface with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica). The silica may be a hydrophobic silica aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m² / g, or VM-2270 (INCI name: silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit weight ranging from 600 to 800 m² / g. The silica may be aerogels sold by Cabot under the names Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, and Aerogel TLD 203.
[0025] The makeup composition may include silica in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight of the makeup composition. Water
[0026] The composition includes water. In some embodiments, the total amount of water may be at least 20% of the makeup composition. The total amount of water may be at least 20%, at least 25%, or at least 30% of the makeup composition. The total amount of water may not exceed 50%, 45%, or 40% of the makeup composition. In preferred embodiments, the total amount of water in the formula may be 30% to 40% by weight of the makeup composition.
[0027] In certain aspects, the discrete aqueous phase may contain more water, by weight of the makeup composition, than the amount of silica and alkane, separately. For example, the makeup composition may include 20% alkane, 15% silica and 30% water (30% > 20% and 30% > 15%).
[0028] In certain aspects, the total amount of water in the formula, by weight of the makeup composition, may be greater than the total amount of silica and alkane combined. For example, the makeup composition may include 14% silica, 16% alkane and 35% water (35% > 14% + 16%). Other components: Emulsifiers
[0029] The makeup composition may include an emulsifier. In some embodiments, the emulsifier may be anionic, nonionic, or a combination thereof. In some embodiments, the emulsifiers useful for the composition of the present invention are those with a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) not exceeding 7. Although any cosmetically acceptable emulsifier may be used in the compositions, excellent results can be obtained using silicone-based emulsifiers (sometimes referred to herein as "silicone emulsifier").
[0030] In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of cationic surfactants. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of cationic surfactants. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of nonionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be free of nonionic surfactants. silicone emulsifier
[0031] The makeup composition may include at least one silicone emulsifier. Non-limiting examples of some useful silicone emulsifiers are: (1) dimethicone and PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone (e.g., Shin-Etsu X-22-6711D); (2) dimethicone and dimethicone crosslinked polymer (e.g., Dow Corning 9041 silicone elastomer blend); (3) dimethicone and dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 crosslinked polymer (Shin-Etsu KSG-210); and (4) dimethicone and dimethicone / polyglycerin-3 crosslinked polymer (Shin-Etsu KSG 710).
[0032] In certain embodiments, the silicone emulsifier that can be used in the present invention can be selected from linear or branched polysiloxane copolymers substituted with polyether. Non-limiting examples of such emulsifiers include PEG-10 dimethicone available under the name ES-5612 from Dow Corning Corporation, or under the name KF-6017 from Shin-Etsu; dimethicone (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 dimethicone available under the trade name ES-5226 DM from Dow Corning Corporation; PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone available under the name KF-6028 from Shin-Etsu; and / or lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone available under the name KF-6038 from Shin-Etsu. A preferred embodiment uses PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
[0033] The silicone emulsifier may be present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1%, 1%, 3%, or 5% to approximately 6%, 8%, or 10% by weight of the makeup composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of silicone emulsifier. Non-silicone emulsifier
[0034] The makeup composition may include a non-silicone emulsifier.
[0035] Non-limiting examples of non-silicone emulsifiers include alkyl polyglucosides; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, and fatty acid esters, which are ethoxylated, propoxylated, or glycerolated; ethoxylated fatty acid esters; glyceryl esters of fatty acids; fatty alcohol ethoxylates; alkylphenol ethoxylates; fatty acid alkoxylates; and mixtures thereof. In some cases, nonionic surfactants such as polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan may be used. In some embodiments, the composition may include polyglyceryl-4 isostearate. In some embodiments, the composition may include polysorbate 20 (Tween 20), glyceryl stearate, stearic acid and / or sodium dihydroxyketyl phosphate.
[0036] The non-silicone emulsifier may be present in an amount ranging from approximately 0.1%, 1%, 3%, or 5% to approximately 6%, 8%, or 10% by weight of the makeup composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of non-silicone emulsifier. Cosmetic oil
[0037] In addition to the alkane, the makeup composition may include a cosmetic oil. The makeup composition may include a single cosmetic oil. The makeup composition may include a plurality of cosmetic oils. The cosmetic oils may include a silicone oil and / or a non-alkane hydrocarbon oil.
[0038] The makeup composition may include 1% to 50% of a cosmetic oil. The makeup composition may include from 1%, 2%, 5%, or 10% up to 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, or 50% of a cosmetic oil, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. The makeup composition may be substantially free of cosmetic oil. The makeup composition may be free of cosmetic oil. Silicone oil
[0039] The cosmetic oil may include a silicone oil. The silicone oil may be a volatile silicone oil. The silicone oil may be a non-volatile silicone oil. The makeup composition may include a phenylated silicone oil. The silicone oil may be a non-phenylated silicone oil. The makeup composition may be free of phenylated silicone oil. The makeup composition may be free of non-phenylated silicone oil.
[0040] Among non-volatile silicone oils, non-limiting examples include non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicones, and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones.
[0041] The makeup composition may include 1% to 50% of a non-volatile silicone oil. The makeup composition may include from 1%, 2%, 5%, or 10% up to 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, or 50% of a non-volatile silicone oil, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. The makeup composition may be substantially free of non-volatile silicone oil. The makeup composition may be free of non-volatile silicone oil.
[0042] In some embodiments, the volatile oil may be a linear or cyclic volatile silicone oil. Examples of linear volatile silicone oils include octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Examples of cyclic volatile silicone oils include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
[0043] The makeup composition may include 1% to 50% of a volatile silicone oil. The makeup composition may include from 1%, 2%, 5%, or 10% up to 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, or 50% of a volatile silicone oil, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. The makeup composition may be substantially free of volatile silicone oil. The makeup composition may be free of volatile silicone oil. Oil based on non-alkane hydrocarbons
[0044] The cosmetic oil may include a non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil. The non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil may be a volatile non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil. The hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil.
[0045] Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbon-based oils include:
[0046] non-volatile linear or branched C8-C16 esters, such as linear or branched C8-C16 esters;
[0047] oils based on hydrocarbons of vegetable origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally fatty acid and glycerol triesters, the fatty acids of which may have varying chain lengths in C4 to C24, these chains being able to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched;These oils include, in particular, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, cucurbit oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, and passionflower oil. rosehip oil.
[0048] synthetic ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0049] linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam and squalane 40;
[0050] synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain which is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is > 10, for example, cetearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, sebacate diisopropyl, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;citrates or tartrates, such as linear C12-C13 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name COSMACOL® ETI esters by Sasol, and also linear C14-C15 di(alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® esters by Sasol;
[0051] fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
[0052] higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
[0053] carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the emollient product sold under the name CETIOL® CC by Cognis;
[0054] fatty amides, such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the amino acid-derived emollient product sold under the trade name ELDEW® SL 205 by Ajinomoto; and
[0055] essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, chili berry oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam fir oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedarwood oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemon verbena oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, oil of myrrh, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, bitter orange petitgrain oil, pine oil, Damask rose oil, rosemary oil,Sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spikenard oil, vetiver oil, wintergreen oil, and ylang-ylang.
[0056] In some cases, the non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil may include glyceride triesters and in particular caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol.
[0057] The makeup composition may include 1% to 50% of a non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil. The makeup composition may include from 1%, 2%, 5%, or 10% up to 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 35%, 40%, 45%, or 50% of a non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. The makeup composition may be substantially free of non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil. The makeup composition may be substantially free of non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil. The makeup composition may be substantially free of volatile non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil. The makeup composition may be substantially free of non-volatile non-alkane hydrocarbon-based oil. The makeup composition may be free of oil based on non-volatile non-alkane hydrocarbons. Wax
[0058] The makeup composition may include a wax. The wax may be present in a total amount of 2% to 5% by weight of the makeup composition. The wax may be present in a total amount of 2%, 3%, or 4% up to 3%, 4%, or 5% by weight of the makeup composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of wax.
[0059] In some embodiments, the makeup composition may include a soft wax. Non-limiting examples of soft waxes may include paraffin wax, beeswax, synthetic wax, and ceresin wax. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be wax-free. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of soft wax. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be free of soft wax.
[0060] In some embodiments, the makeup composition may include a hard wax. Non-limiting examples of hard waxes may include carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, candelilla wax, and ozokerite. In a preferred embodiment, the wax is candelilla wax. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of hard wax.
[0061] In some embodiments, the makeup composition may include at least one silicone wax. Non-limiting examples of silicone waxes include alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones, such as (C20-C60) alkyl dimethicones, particularly (C30-C45) alkyl dimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by Momentive or the (C30-C45) alkyl dimethylsilyl polypropyl silsesquioxane sold under the name DOWSIL™ SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax by Dow Inc.; and silicone waxes obtained by esterification with a (poly)alkoxy silicone, such as silicone beeswax, silicone candelilla wax, or silicone carnauba wax. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of silicone wax. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be free of silicone wax.In some embodiments, the makeup composition may include a non-silicone wax. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of non-silicone wax. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be free of non-silicone wax. Pigment
[0062] In some aspects, the makeup composition may include a pigment.
[0063] Examples of suitable pigments include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. The pigments may be selected from organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art. The pigments may be in powder or paste form. They may be coated or uncoated. Optionally, the pigments may be surface-treated within the scope of the present invention, but such treatments are not limited to silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.
[0064] Pigments may be selected, for example, from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as mother-of-pearl or glitter flakes, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of inorganic pigments include those selected from the group consisting of rutile titanium dioxide or anatase, coded in the color index under reference CI 77891; black, yellow, red, and brown iron oxides, coded under references CI 77499, 77492, and 77491; manganese violet (CI 77742); ultramarine blue (CI 77007); chromium oxide (CI 77288); chromium hydrate (CI 77289); and iron blue (CI 77 510), and mixtures thereof.
[0065] The pigment may be an inorganic pigment. Non-limiting examples include iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium oxide.
[0066] The pigment may be an organic pigment. Non-limiting examples include nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone.
[0067] In particular, the white or colored organic pigments may be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the color index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the color index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments coded in the color index under references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments coded in the color index under references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, red pigments coded in the color index under references CI 12085, CI 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915,and 75470 and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives. Non-limiting examples of organic pigments and lakes include, but are not limited to, D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15585), D&C Red No. 21, (CI 45 380), D&C Orange No. 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red No. 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Red No. 13 (CI 15 630), D&C Red No. 7 (CI 15 850), D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15 850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12 085), D&C Orange No. 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Yellow No. 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Red No. 30 (CI 73 360), D&C Red No. 3 (CI 45 430) and carmine-based dyes or lacquers Cochineal (CI 75 570), and mixtures thereof.
[0068] The pigments according to the invention may also be in the form of composite pigments. These composite pigments may be compounds, in particular, of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder to ensure the bonding of the organic pigments to the core, and at least one organic pigment that at least partially covers the core.
[0069] The organic pigment can also be a lake. The term "lake" refers to dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the resulting whole remaining insoluble during use.
[0070] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0071] Among the dyes, cochineal carmine may be mentioned. Non-limiting examples of dyes include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090). An example of lacquer is D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).
[0072] The pigment may also be a special effects pigment. The term "special effects pigments" refers to pigments that generally create a non-uniform colored appearance (characterized by a certain hue, vibrancy, and / or brightness) that changes depending on the viewing conditions (light, temperature, viewing angles, etc.). They thus contrast with colored pigments that offer a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or transparent hue.
[0073] There are several types of special effect pigment: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index, such as pearlescent pigments or glitter flakes.
[0074] Examples of special effect pigments that can be cited include pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, in particular the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metallic oxides and / or organic dyes.
[0075] Mother-of-pearl may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or tint.
[0076] Non-limiting examples of mother-of-pearl include gold-colored mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Engelhard under the name Gold 222C (a CLOISONNÉ® pigment), Sparkle gold (a TIMICA® pigment), Gold 4504 (a CHROMA-LITE® pigment) and Monarch gold 233X (a CLOISONNÉ® pigment); bronze mother-of-pearl sold in particular by Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384) (a COLORONA® pigment) and Bronze (17353) (a COLORONA® pigment), by Eckart under the name PRESTIGE™ Bronze pigment and by Engelhard under the name Super bronze (a CLOISONNÉ® pigment); orange mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (CLOISONNE ® pigment) and Orange MCR 101 and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (COLORONA® pigment) and Matte orange (17449); brown mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (CLOISONNE ® pigment) and Brown CL4509 (CHROMA-LITE® pigment);copper-tinted mother-of-pearl sold notably by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (TIMICA® pigment) and by Eckart under the name Prestige Copper; red-tinted mother-of-pearl sold notably by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (COLORONA® pigment); yellow-tinted mother-of-pearl sold notably by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (CHROMA-LITE® pigment); red-tinted gold mother-of-pearl sold notably by Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (GEMTONE® pigment);black mother-of-pearl with a gold tint, sold notably by the Engelhard company under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (TIMICA® pigment), blue mother-of-pearl sold notably by the Merck company under the name Matte blue (17433), Dark Blue (117324) (COLORONA® pigment), white mother-of-pearl with a silver tint, sold notably by the Merck company under the name XIRONA® Silver pigment, and pink-orange-green-gold mother-of-pearl sold notably by the Merck company under the name Indian summer (XIRONA® pigment), and mixtures thereof.
[0077] In addition to mother-of-pearl on a mica support, multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, sodium calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum, can be considered.
[0078] Non-limiting examples of pearlescent pigments include those selected from the group consisting of white pearlescent pigments such as titanium oxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] Other examples include interference effect pigments that are not fixed to a substrate, for example, liquid crystals or holographic interference glitter flakes. Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are daylight fluorescent or produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments, and quantum dots.
[0080] The variety of pigments that can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a wide range of colors, and also particular optical effects such as metallic effects or interference effects.
[0081] The effective diameter of the pigment particles can generally be between 10 nm and 200 µm, such as between 20 nm and 80 pm, such as between 30 nm and 50 µm.
[0082] In certain embodiments, the pigment may be present in a total quantity of not more than 30% by weight of the makeup composition. In certain embodiments, the pigment may be present in a total quantity of not more than 20% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of not more than 15% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of not more than 10% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of not more than 8% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of not more than 6% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of not more than 5% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of not more than 4% by weight of the makeup composition.The pigment may be present in a total quantity of no more than 3% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of at least 0.1% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of at least 2% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of at least 3% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present. in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of at least 10% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of at least 15% by weight of the makeup composition. The pigment may be present in a total quantity of at least 20% by weight of the makeup composition. In some embodiments, the pigment may be present in a total quantity of 10% to 20% by weight of the makeup composition.
[0083] In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially pigment-free. In some embodiments, the composition may be pigment-free. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially titanium dioxide-free. In some embodiments, the composition may be titanium dioxide-free. Polyol
[0084] In certain aspects, the makeup composition may include a polyol. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of not more than 20% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of not more than 15% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of not more than 10% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of not more than 5% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 2% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 3% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 4% by weight of the makeup composition.The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 6% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 7% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 8% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 9% by weight of the makeup composition. The polyol may be present in a total quantity of at least 10% by weight of the makeup composition. The makeup composition may be substantially free of polyol. The makeup composition may be free of polyol.
[0085] The polyol may be a polyhydric alcohol. Non-limiting examples of polyhydric alcohols include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, the 1,5-Pentanediol, hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol), tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol (1,2-octanediol), polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of polyhydric alcohol.
[0086] The polyol may be an aliphatic diol. Non-limiting examples of aliphatic diols include 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol, and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of aliphatic diol.
[0087] The polyol may be alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 methicone, cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone, and / or cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of alkyl dimethicone copolyols.
[0088] The polyol may be a monosaccharide polyol, such as mannitol, erythritol, xylitol, and / or sorbitol. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of monosaccharide polyols. Polysaccharides
[0089] In certain aspects, the makeup composition may include a polysaccharide.
[0090] The polysaccharide may be present in a total amount of no more than 10% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of no more than 9% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of no more than 8% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of no more than 7% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of no more than 6% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of no more than 5% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of no more than 4% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of no more than 3% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of at least 3% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of at least 4% by weight of the makeup composition. The polysaccharide may be present in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the makeup composition. The makeup composition may be substantially free of polysaccharide. The makeup composition may be free of polysaccharide. In some embodiments, the polysaccharide may be hyaluronic acid, or one of its salts such as the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate).
[0091] The polysaccharide may be a glycosaminoglycan (GAG) such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate, dermatan sulfate, keratan sulfate, and preferably hyaluronic acid; xylans (or arabinoxylans) and derivatives.
[0092] The polysaccharide may be cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative. The composition may be substantially free of cellulose and / or cellulose derivatives.
[0093] The expression "cellulose derivative" designates a compound comprising at least one cellobiose motif having the following structure:
[0094] in which one or more hydroxyl groups may be substituted.
[0095] The cellulose derivative may be a water-soluble cellulose derivative. The term "water-soluble" means soluble in water, particularly in a proportion of at least 10 grams per liter of water, preferably at least 20 g / L, and even better at least 50 g / L, at a temperature of 35 °C or lower. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble cellulose derivatives include cationic cellulose polymers such as cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer. Such derivatives include, for example, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, and hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted, for example, with a salt selected from methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, and dimethyldiallylammonium salts. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of water-soluble cellulose derivatives.In some embodiments, the composition may be free of water-soluble cellulose derivatives.
[0096] The cellulose derivative may be a water-insoluble cellulose derivative. Non-limiting examples of water-insoluble cellulose derivatives include the Nitrocellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate phthalate, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalate. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of water-insoluble cellulose derivatives. Ultraviolet (UV) filters
[0097] The composition may include a UV filter.
[0098] The UV filter may be present in a total quantity of no more than 20% by weight of the composition. The UV filter may be present in a total quantity of no more than 15% by weight of the composition. The UV filter may be present in a total quantity of no more than 10% by weight of the composition. The UV filter may be present in a total quantity of no more than 5% by weight of the composition. The UV filter may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the composition. The UV filter may be present in a total quantity of at least 2% by weight of the composition. The UV filter may be present in a total quantity of at least 3% by weight of the composition. The UV filter may be present in a total quantity of at least 4% by weight of the composition. The UV filter may be present in a total quantity of at least 5% by weight of the composition. The makeup composition may be substantially free of UV filter.The makeup formula may be free of UV filters.
[0099] The UV filter may be a mineral UV filter. Non-limiting examples of mineral UV filters include UV-grade titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of mineral UV filters.
[0100] The makeup composition must be free of UV-absorbing composite particles. Such UV-absorbing composite particles may be a composite particle as described, for example, in US 9,913,782 and generally include (i) a matrix comprising at least one organic material and / or at least one mineral material, and (ii) a UV filter, such as an organic UV filter or a mineral UV filter such as titanium dioxide, mineral UV filters optionally being treated with a surfactant. Such composite particles typically have larger particle sizes, such as 0.1 pm or more. Such composite particles may include materials where multiple metal oxide particles are arranged within a matrix. Such composite particles may also include, for example, core-shell particles, often having an organic shell around a metal oxide core.
[0101] The mineral UV filter can be in free form. The expression "free form" means that the mineral UV filter is not incorporated into a matrix and / or on the surface of the matrix of a composite particle.
[0102] The UV filter may be an organic UV filter. Non-limiting examples of organic UV filters include, for example, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, and octocrylene. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of organic UV filters. Conservative
[0103] The makeup composition may include a preservative.
[0104] Representative examples of preservatives include alkyl para-hydroxybenzoates, in which the alkyl radical has 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, for example, methyl para-hydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), ethyl para-hydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben), propyl para-hydroxybenzoate (propylparaben), butyl para-hydroxybenzoate (butylparaben) and isobutyl para-hydroxybenzoate (isobutylparaben), and phenoxyethanol.
[0105] In some embodiments, the preservative may be present in a total quantity of not more than 15% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the preservative may be present in a total quantity of not more than 10% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the preservative may be present in a total quantity of not more than 5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be present in a total quantity of at least 1% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be substantially free of preservatives. In some embodiments, the makeup composition may be free of preservatives. Scent
[0106] The makeup composition may include a fragrance. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially fragrance-free.
[0107] Revitalizing agents
[0108] The makeup composition may include a conditioning agent, such as an amphoteric conditioning agent. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of a conditioning agent.
[0109] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric revitalizing agents include, for example, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glycine, glutamic acid, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, serine, threonine, tyrosine, tryptophan, valine, gelatin, quaternium-27, oleamidopropyl betaine, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, limnanthes delta lactone, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauramidopropyl betaine, camitine, hydroxyproline, acetyl hydroxyproline, isoleucine, lauroyl lysine, lauroyl sarcosine, polylysine, proline, rice amino acids, silk amino acids, wheat amino acids, and mixtures thereof. Antioxidants
[0110] The makeup composition may include an antioxidant. In some embodiments, an antioxidant may be present in the composition in a total amount of 0 to 0.5% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of antioxidant.
[0111] Non-limiting examples of antioxidants include, for example, tocopherol, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl compounds such as ascorbyl dipalmitate, t-butylhydroquinone, polyphenols such as phloroglucinol, sodium sulfite, and erythorbic acid. Ceramides
[0112] The makeup composition may include a ceramide. In some embodiments, a ceramide may be present in the composition in a total amount of 0 to 0.2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of ceramide.
[0113] Ceramides are a family of waxy lipid molecules composed of sphingosine and a fatty acid. Ceramides include ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide IA, ceramide 6 II, ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, ceramide EOS, ceramide NP, ceramide NG, ceramide NS, ceramide AS, and ceramide NS dilaurate. In some cases, the cosmetic composition may include ceramide NP. Moisturizers and humectants
[0114] The makeup composition may include an additional moisturizer and / or humectant. In some embodiments, an additional moisturizer and / or humectant may be present in the composition in a total amount of 0 to 0.2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of additional moisturizer and / or humectant.
[0115] Moisturizers or humectants that may be mentioned include, in particular, sorbitol, polyhydric alcohols, preferably C2-C8 and more preferably C3-C6, preferably such as glycerol, propylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diglycerol, and mixtures thereof, glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance® (2-hydroxyethylurea) sold by National Starch, lactic acids, hyaluronic acid, AHAs, BHAs, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoine and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24® by Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers, for example Lipidure-HM® from NOF Corporation, [3-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl [3-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry;a mixture of passionflower oil, apricot oil, corn oil and rice bran oil sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids®; a C-glycoside derivative such as those described in patent application WO 02 / 051 828 and in particular C-[3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60 / 40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by Chimex under the trade name Mexoryl SBB®; a rosehip oil sold by Nestlé; an extract of the microalga Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, sold by Vincience under the name Algualane Zinc®; marine collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres (Ateocollagen) sold by Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres; Hyaluronic acid spheres such as those sold by the company Engelhard Lyon; and arginine. Soothing agents
[0116] The makeup composition may include a soothing agent (for example, a compound that reduces the sensation of stinging, itching, or tightness of the skin). In some embodiments, a soothing agent may be present in the composition in a total amount of 0 to 0.2% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of a soothing agent.
[0117] Non-limiting examples of calming agents include, for example, procyanidin oligomers, vitamins E, C, B5 and B3, caffeine and its derivatives, triterpenes pentacyclic compounds and the plant extracts that contain them, 3-glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts or derivatives (stearyl glycyrrhetate, 3-stearoyloxyglycyrrhetinic acid, or glycyrrhetinic acid monoglucuronide), and also the plants that contain them (e.g., Glycyrrhiza glabra), oleanolic acid and its salts, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa and / or lactiflora, an extract of Laminaria saccharina, extracts of Centella asiatica, canola oil, bisabolol, vitamin E and C phosphoric diester, e.g., Sepivital EPC® from SEPPIC, chamomile extracts, allantoin, omega-3 unsaturated oils such as rosehip oil, blackcurrant oil, Ecchium oil, fish oil or beauty leaf oil, plankton extracts, capryloyl glycine, a mixture of lotus flower extract and palmitoylproline,such as the product marketed under the Seppicalm VG® brand by SEPPIC, an extract of Boswellia serrata, an extract of Centipeda cunninghami, such as the product marketed under the Cehami PF® brand by TRL K Industries, an extract of sunflower seeds, in particular Hélioxine® from Silab, an extract of Linum usitatissimum seeds, for example Sensiline® from Silab, tocotrienols, piperonal, an extract of Epilobium angustifolium, such as the product marketed under the Canadian Willowherb Extract brand by Fytokem Products, aloe vera, phytosterols, cornflower water, rose water, an extract of mint, in particular mint leaf, for example Calmiskin® from Silab, anise derivatives, filamentous bacteria, for example Vitreoscilla filiformis as described in EP 761 204 and marketed by Chimex under the brand Mexoryl SB G®, a rose petal extract, for example Rose Flower Herbasol® extract from Cosmetochem, shea butter,a mixture of the waxy fraction of barley seeds obtained by supercritical CO2, shea butter and argan oil, for example Stimu-tex AS® from Pentapharm, alkaline earth metal salts, in particular strontium, a fermented extract of Alteromonas marketed under the brand name Abyssine® by Atrium Biotechnologies; spring water from the Vichy basin, such as water from the Célestins, Chomel, Grande-Grille, Hôpital, Lucas and Parc springs, and preferably water from the Lucas spring; an extract of Eperua falcata bark, such as the product marketed by Cognis under the brand name Eperuline®; an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as the product marketed by Ichimaru Pharcos under the brand name Botanpi Liquid B®; and mixtures thereof. Hydrophilic gelling agent
[0118] The makeup composition may include a hydrophilic gelling agent. In some embodiments, a hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition in a total amount of 0 to 0.2%, 0 to 0.1%, 0 to 0.05%, or 0 to 0.02%. % by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of hydrophilic gelling agents. In some embodiments, the composition may be free of hydrophilic gelling agents.
[0119] Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be cited in particular include water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These polymers may be selected, in particular, from:
[0120] Modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as products sold under the name Carbopol (CTFA name: Carbomer) by the Goodrich company; polyacrylates
[0121] polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the company Hispano Chimica;
[0122] polyacrylamides; optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, for example poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, which are in the form of an O / W emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC;
[0123] polysaccharide biopolymers, for example xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and mixtures thereof. Charges
[0124] The composition may include a filler. The composition may be substantially filler-free. In some embodiments, a filler may be present in the composition in a total amount of 0 to 0.2%, 0 to 0.1%, 0 to 0.05%, or 0 to 0.02% by weight of the composition. The composition may be filler-free.
[0125] The filler may be a mineral filler. The composition may be substantially free of mineral filler. Non-limiting examples of mineral fillers include natural or synthetic mica, talc, kaolin, natural or synthetic sericite, silica, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, hollow silica microspheres (Maprecos silica beads), glass or ceramic microcapsules; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG range sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof.
[0126] The filler may be an organic filler. The composition may be substantially free of organic filler. Non-limiting examples of organic fillers include polyamide powders (Atochem's Nylon® Orgasol), poly-[3-alanine] powder and polyethylene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) powder, lauroyllysine, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders and spherical powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane, silicone resin microbeads and / or polyurethane powders. Synthetic peptides
[0127] In some embodiments, the composition may include a synthetic peptide. The synthetic peptide may be present in a total amount of less than 0.1%, less than 0.01%, less than 0.001%, or less than 0.0001% by weight of the composition. In some embodiments, these synthetic peptides include biopeptide CL or various palmitoyl peptides, such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1 or palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. In some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of synthetic peptides. Additives and other components
[0128] In addition to the materials disclosed above, in some embodiments, the composition may be substantially free of all other materials. In addition to the materials disclosed above, in some embodiments, the composition may include not more than 0.25%, not more than 0.2%, not more than 0.15%, not more than 0.1%, or not more than 0.05% by weight of all other materials combined. In addition to the materials disclosed above, in some embodiments, the composition may be free of all other materials.
[0129] The makeup composition must be free of supramolecular polymers. As used herein, the term "supramolecular polymer" means a chain or network of polymers formed from the entirety of one (co)polymer with at least one other identical or different (co)polymer, each assembly comprising at least one pair of identical or different matched junction groups. Such supramolecular polymers may be a supramolecular polymer as described in US 9,000,051, US 9561,390, or FR 2938,758.
[0130] In various aspects, a method for improving the aesthetics of the skin may be proposed. The method may include providing a first makeup composition as disclosed herein and applying the first composition of Makeup on a user's face. The process may include applying a second makeup composition over the first makeup composition. Alternatively, the process may include applying a second makeup composition to the user's face before applying the first makeup composition, where the first makeup composition is applied over the second makeup composition. The process may include removing the first makeup composition after a period of time, the period of time being between 1 hour and 48 hours. EXAMPLE 1
[0131] A basic composition was used to create several formulations—those without silica (Comp. 1), with little silica (Comp. 2), and with more silica (Comp. 3)—compared to compositions with silica in the claimed range (Ex. 1). The amount of Cl5-C19 alkane was adjusted so that the total amount of silica + C15-C19 alkane remained constant. Specifically, formulations according to those described in Table 1 were developed.
[0132] [Table 1] - Comparative formulations in silica level Compound 1 (% by weight) Compound 2 (% by weight) Compound 3 (% by weight) Example 1 (% by weight) Silica 0 5 25 10-20 C15-C19 Alkane 30 25 5 10-20 Base Composition 70 70 70 70 Candelilla Wax 4 4 4 4 Silicon Emulsifier ~2.5 ~2.5 ~2.5 ~2.5 Silicone Oil 4 4 4 4 Other cosmetic ingredients ~21 ~21 ~21 ~21 Water qsqsqsqs
[0133] Comparative formulations 1 and 2 (Comp. 1 and Comp. 2) were unstable (from a shelf-life stability perspective), exhibiting wax separation at 45°C after 1 week. Comparative formulation 3 (Comp. 3) was a paste, rather than a solid emulsion, and it did not melt or apply evenly to the skin, nor was it transparent on the skin (leaving a white cast on the skin after application). Only the exemplary products were solid emulsions, transparent on the skin and shelf-life stable. EXAMPLE 2
[0134] Compositions according to those described in Table 2 have been created. Generally, the oil-phase components are combined, the aqueous-phase components are combined separately and added to the oil phase, and then perfumes are added.
[0135] [Tables2] Ex. 2 (% by weight) Water 35-40 Silicas 12-17 C15-C19 Alkanes 12-17 Candelilla Wax 2-5 Silicone Emulsifiers 2-5 Silicone Oils 2-5 Non-Silicone Emulsifiers 1-2 Non-Alkane Hydrocarbon Oils 2-5 Fragrance <1 Polysaccharides 1-3 Polyols 10-15 Pigments 1-3 Ceramides <0.2 Conditioning Agent 1-2 Antioxidants <0.5 Phenoxyethanol <1 All other cosmetic ingredients <0.2
[0136] Although the invention has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, a person skilled in the art will understand that various changes can be made and that equivalents can replace elements of the invention without departing from its essential scope. Furthermore, numerous modifications can be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the invention without departing from its essential scope. Therefore, it is intended that the invention is not limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as being the best envisaged way of carrying out this invention, but that the invention includes all embodiments within the scope of the appended claims.
Claims
Demands
1. Makeup composition, comprising: a discrete aqueous phase; a continuous oily phase including a C15-C19 alkane, the alkane being present in an amount of 5 to 30% by weight of the makeup composition; silica in an amount of 10% to 20% by weight of the makeup composition; a pigment in which the makeup composition is free from UV-absorbing composite particles; in which the makeup composition is free from supramolecular polymers; and in which the makeup composition is a solid emulsion.
2. Makeup composition according to claim 1, wherein the discrete aqueous phase contains more water, by weight of the makeup composition, than the amount of silica and alkane, separately.
3. Makeup composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein a total amount of water in the formula is 30 to 40% by weight of the makeup composition.
4. Makeup composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a silicone emulsifier.
5. Makeup composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a silicone oil.
6. Makeup composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a wax in a total quantity of 2% to 5% by weight of the makeup composition.
7. Makeup composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a polyol.
8. Makeup composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising cellulose and / or a cellulose derivative.
9. Makeup composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the makeup composition is free of organic UV filters.
10. A method for improving the aesthetics of the skin, comprising: providing a first makeup composition according to any one of the preceding claims; and applying the first makeup composition to the face of a user.