Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials

Abstract

Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: (a) at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C; (b) at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from (meth)acrylate polymers; and (c) at least one polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition. Preferably, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a method for skincare and / or makeup application of keratinous materials. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Skin and / or lip care and / or makeup compositions are produced to meet the needs for skin and / or lip care and / or makeup. In particular, consumers seek a lip care and makeup product that provides good lip revitalization. It is known to formulate products such as lip gloss, lip oil, or other types of anhydrous lip compositions for the purpose of lip care and / or makeup application.

[0003] Currently, it has proven difficult to obtain a lip product that offers good sensations, including a glossy, melting and non-sticky feel.

[0004] Therefore, there is a need for a composition, preferably for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, which has good sensations, including a glossy, melting and non-sticky sensation, preferably which also has a good moisturizing sensation. Summary of the invention

[0005] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the composition according to the present invention.

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: a. at least one fatty compound having a melting point not lower than 35°C; b. at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from the polymers of (meth)acrylate; and c. at least one polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer.

[0007] The composition according to the present invention has good sensations, including a shiny, melting and non-sticky feel.

[0008] The inventors have further discovered that the composition according to the present invention preferably has a good moisturizing sensation.

[0009] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising: the application of the composition according to the first aspect on the keratinous materials.

[0010] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0011] In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to...".

[0012] The articles “a” and “an,” as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any particular feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the patent memorandum and claims. The use of “a” and “an” does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limitation is specifically stated. Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more.”

[0013] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" shall be interpreted as encompassing all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no material features or even any features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (such as "essentially consisting of" or "consisting of"). In the case of "essentially consisting of," any additional composition, material, and / or component that materially affects the fundamental and new features is excluded from such an embodiment, but any composition, material, and / or component that does not materially affect the fundamental and new features may be included in the embodiment.

[0014] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values ​​expressing a quantity of ingredients and other substances used in the description and claims shall be understood as being modified by the term "approximately". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical values ​​and parameters described herein are approximate values ​​that may be modified according to the desired performance obtained as required. The term "approximately" referring to a certain value is intended to denote a range to within ±5% of the value, for example: within ±3%, ±2%, ±1%, and ±0.5% of the value.

[0015] As used herein, the expression "keratinous material(s)" refers to the skin and lips. "Skin" includes all skin on the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratinous material(s) refers to the lips.

[0016] As used herein, the term “lipophilic” means a substance which is soluble or dispersible in oil(s) at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oil or oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Fatty compounds

[0017] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C.

[0018] Preferably, the fatty compound is chosen from waxes, pasty fatty compounds, and mixtures thereof. Waxes

[0019] The composition according to the invention may include at least one wax having a melting point not less than 35°C.

[0020] According to the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic solid fatty compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, which is solid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0021] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed during thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments.

[0022] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0023] A sample of approximately 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible in a "hermetically sealed aluminum capsule".

[0024] The sample is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute. It is then cooled from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. During the second temperature increase, the melting point of the fatty compound is measured. This value corresponds to the value of the peak of the most endothermic peak observed on the melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0025] Preferably, the wax has a melting point between 35 °C and 120 °C, more preferably between 40 °C and 100 °C, and even more preferably from 40 to 90 °C.

[0026] According to the present invention, the wax can be chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, ester hydrocarbon-based waxes, and also their mixtures.

[0027] Among nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes (i.e. waxes comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), we can mention polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, and also their mixtures.

[0028] Among the waxes based on hydrocarbon esters, we can mention fatty acid monoesters, dicarboxylic acid diesters, total esters of glycerol and a carboxylic acid in Ci4-C30, these waxes not comprising any free hydroxyl group; waxes of animal or vegetable origin; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; and also their mixtures.

[0029] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "total esters of glycerol and a C14-C30 carboxylic acid" means that each hydroxyl group of glycerol forms an ester with the C14-C30 carboxylic acid.

[0030] In one aspect, monoester waxes of fatty acids with the formula Ri COOR2, in which Ri and R2 are identical or different, represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, and may contain a heteroatom, preferably oxygen. For example, cetyl palmitate and C2O-C4O alkyl stearates can be used as waxes. Such waxes may be sold under the name Kester Wax® K82H by Koster Keunen. Mixtures of Ci4-Ci8 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols can also be used, such as Koster Keunen's Cetyl Ester Wax 814, Croda's SP Crodamol MS MB AL and Crodamol MS PA, and Laserson's Miraceti.

[0031] Dicarboxylic acid diester waxes of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group that may or may not contain one or more unsaturates, are also suitable for use as ester waxes. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0032] We can also mention total esters of glycerol and a carboxylic acid in Ci6-C3o, for example tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate) or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in mixture.

[0033] In another aspect, we can mention waxes of animal or vegetable origin, for example camauba wax, beeswax, synthetic beeswax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, olive wax, vegetable wax, shellac wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, laurel wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, orange peel wax or Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (orange) peel wax, sunflower wax or Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] We can also mention waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils. Preferably, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils containing preferably linear or branched C8-C32 fatty acid chains, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil or hydrogenated coconut oil, and also waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax® Ricin 16L64 and Phytowax® Ricin 22L73 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR 2 792 190. Examples of waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol or lauryl alcohol include those sold under the name Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57 or Phytowax® Olive 12 L 44.We can also mention waxes in the form of mixtures, for example waxes obtained by hydrogenation of more than one vegetable oil, preferably by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, for example, hydrogenated vegetable oil sold under the trade name Cegesoft HF 52 by BASF, and hydrogenated rapeseed oil (and) hydrogenated palm oil sold under the trade name Dermofeel® Viscolid MB by Dr. Straetmans (Evonik).

[0035] Preferably, the wax is chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based waxes, ester hydrocarbon-based waxes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably ester hydrocarbon-based waxes.

[0036] More preferably, the wax is chosen from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, and their mixtures.

[0037] More preferably, the wax is chosen from waxes of vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil(s), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the wax is chosen from sunflower wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of more than one vegetable oil, preferably by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Even more preferably, the wax is chosen from Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed wax, for example, that sold under the trade name E00167 Sunflower Wax by the company Koster Keunen, a hydrogenated vegetable oil, for example, that sold under the trade name Cegesoft HF 52 by the company BASF, a hydrogenated rapeseed oil (and) Hydrogenated palm oil, for example, that sold under the trade name Dermofeel® Viscolid MB by the company Dr. Straetmans (Evonik), and mixtures thereof. Pasty fatty compounds

[0039] The composition according to the invention may include at least one pasty fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C.

[0040] According to the present invention, the expression "pasty fatty compound" designates a lipophilic fatty compound which undergoes a reversible solid / liquid change of state, comprising at a temperature of 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0041] Preferably, the pasty fatty compound has a melting point between 35 and 60 °C, more preferably between 35 and 50 °C and even more preferably between 35 and 45 °C.

[0042] The measurement protocol for determining the melting point of the pasty fatty compound is presented as follows:

[0043] A 5 mg sample of pasty fatty compound placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C, at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, it is then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute.

[0044] The melting point of the pasty fatty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

[0045] It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty compound at room temperature is equal to the ratio between the heat of fusion consumed at room temperature and the heat of fusion of the pasty fatty compound.

[0046] The heat of fusion of the pasty fatty compound is the heat consumed by said compound to change from a solid to a liquid state. The pasty fatty compound is said to be in a solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

[0047] The heat of fusion of the pasty fat compound is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fat compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion of the pasty fat compound is equal to the value shown on the thermogram curve.

[0048] Among the pasty fatty compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention, petroleum jelly (INCI name: petrolatum) can be cited among the pasty compounds based on nonpolar hydrocarbons (in other words, compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure).

[0049] Among the pasty compounds based on ester hydrocarbons, lanolins and their derivatives, for example acetylated lanolins, can be used.

[0050] Vegetable butters, for example apricot butter, mango butter, kokum butter, palm butter, illipe butter, irvingia gabonensis kernel butter, avocado butter, kpangnan butter, combo butter, jojoba butter, shorea robusta seed butter, ucuuba butter, coffee butter, olive butter, almond butter, and mixtures thereof, are also suitable for use.

[0051] Preferably, the pasty fatty compound is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, ester hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the pasty fatty compound is selected from ester hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, and preferably vegetable butters. Even more preferably, the pasty fatty compound is Irvingia gabonensis kernel butter, for example, that sold under the trade name Irwinol LS 9890 by BASF Beauty Care Solutions.

[0052] Advantageously, the fatty compound is present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 8% by weight, and more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Lipophilic thickening agents

[0053] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from (meth)acrylate polymers.

[0054] According to the present invention, the lipophilic thickening agent can be semi-crystalline or crystalline polymers.

[0055] Preferably, the lipophilic thickening agent is chosen from semi-crystalline polymers. The term "semi-crystalline polymer" means polymers comprising a crystallizable portion, such as a crystallizable pendant and / or terminal chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone and / or at the ends, and an amorphous portion in the backbone, and having a reversible first-order phase change temperature, preferably melting (solid-liquid transition). When The crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, and the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous block. The semi-crystalline polymer is, in this case, a block polymer, for example, a diblock, triblock, or multiblock, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. The term "block" generally means at least five identical repeating units. The expression "multiblock block copolymer" means that there are at least four blocks in the block copolymer. The crystallizable block(s) is / are then of a different chemical nature than the amorphous block(s).

[0056] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer according to the present invention has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 °C, preferably ranging from 35 °C to 80 °C, and more preferably ranging from 40 °C to 75 °C. This melting point is a first-order phase change temperature.

[0057] This melting point can be measured by any known method and preferably using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments.

[0058] Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) to which the present invention applies has a number average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1000.

[0059] More advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer(s) to which the present invention applies has a number average molecular mass ranging from 2000 to 800,000, preferably from 3000 to 500,000, more preferably from 4000 to 150,000, even more preferably from 4000 to 100,000, and even more preferably from 5700 to 99,000.

[0060] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "crystallizable chain or block" refers to a chain or block which, if obtained alone, would reversibly transition from an amorphous to a crystalline state, depending on whether the temperature is above or below its melting point. For the purposes of the present invention, a "chain" in the term "crystallizable chain" is a group of atoms that are pendant or lateral to the polymer backbone. A "block" in the expression "crystallizable block" is a group of atoms that belong to the backbone, this group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable chain" is a chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms.

[0061] Preferably, the crystallizable block(s) or chain(s) of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and, preferably, at least 40%. The semi-crystalline polymers of the present invention containing crystallizable blocks are diblock, triblock, or multiblock polymers. They can be obtained by polymerization of a monomer containing reactive double bonds (or ethylenic bonds) or by polycondensation. When the The semi-crystalline polymers of the present invention are polymers containing crystallizable chains, these crystallizable chains advantageously being in random or statistical form.

[0062] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers used in the lipophilic thickening agent are of synthetic origin. Furthermore, they do not comprise a polysaccharide backbone. In general, the crystallizable units (chains or blocks) of the semi-crystalline polymers according to the present invention are derived from monomer(s) containing crystallizable block(s) or chain(s), used in the manufacture of the semi-crystalline polymers.

[0063] According to the present invention, the semi-crystalline polymer can be selected from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable chain by repeated motif, and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Semi-crystalline polymers that can be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to:

[0065] - sequenced copolymers of polyolefins, preferably those whose monomers are described in EP-A-0 951 897,

[0066] - polycondensates, preferably of the aliphatic or aromatic homopolyester type or of the aliphatic or aromatic copolyester type,

[0067] - homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable chain and homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, for example those described in US-A-5 156 911,

[0068] - homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable chain, preferably containing one or more fluoro groups, as described in document WO-A-01 / 19333,

[0069] - and their mixtures.

[0070] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers used in the lipophilic thickening agent contain crystallizable chains.

[0071] Examples include those defined in documents US-A-5 156 911 and WO-A-01 / 19333. These are homopolymers or copolymers comprising 50% to 100% by weight of motifs resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing a hydrophobic crystallizable chain.

[0072] They may result from:

[0073] - of polymerization, preferably free radical polymerization, of one or more monomers containing one or more reactive double bond(s) or ethylenic bond(s), namely a vinyl, (meth)acrylic or allylic group,

[0074] - from the polycondensation of one or more monomers bearing co groups reagents (carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, alcohol, amine or isocyanate), such as polyesters, polyurethanes, polyethers, polyureas or polyamides.

[0075] In general, these polymers are preferably chosen from homopolymers and copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer containing one or more crystallizable chain(s) which can be represented by formula (I): C

[0076] with M representing an atom of the polymer skeleton, S representing a spacer and C representing a crystallizable group.

[0077] The crystallizable "-SC" chains may be aliphatic or aromatic, and optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated. "S" preferably represents the (CH2)n or (CH2CH2O)n or (CH2O)n group, where n is an integer from 0 to 22. Preferably, "S" and "C" are different.

[0078] When the crystallizable “-SC” chains are aliphatic hydrocarbon chains, they comprise alkyl chains containing at least 8 carbon atoms and not more than 40 carbon atoms, and preferably not more than 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are alkyl chains containing at least 10 carbon atoms, and preferably C10-C30 alkyl chains. When they are fluoroalkyl or perfluoroalkyl chains, they contain at least six fluorinated carbon atoms, and preferably at least 10 carbon atoms, of which at least six are fluorinated.

[0079] Examples of semi-crystalline homopolymers or copolymers containing one or more crystallizable chains include those resulting from the polymerization of one or more of the following monomers: saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates with the alkyl group at C8-C40, perfluoroalkyl (meth)acrylates with the alkyl group at C8-C40, N-alkyl(meth)acrylamides with the alkyl group at C8-C40 with or without a fluorine atom, vinyl esters containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group at C4-C24 (with at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain), vinyl ethers containing alkyl or perfluoro(alkyl) chains with the alkyl group at C8-C40 and at least 6 fluorine atoms per perfluoroalkyl chain, C8-C40 alpha-olefins such as, for example, octadecene, para-alkylstyrenes with a C8-C40 alkyl group, and mixtures thereof.

[0080] When semi-crystalline polymers result from polycondensation, the crystallizable hydrocarbon-based and / or fluorinated chains as defined above are carried by a monomer which can be a diacid, a diol, a diamine or a diisocyanate.

[0081] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable chains are chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of monomer(s) comprising a C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably chosen from homopolymers of C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 or C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylamide, copolymers of these monomers and a hydrophilic monomer which is preferably different from (meth)acrylic acid, preferably from N-vinylpyrrolidone or hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer containing crystallizable chains is a polymer that is derived from a monomer containing a crystallizable chain selected from saturated alkyl (meth)acrylates in C8 to C40, preferably in Ci0-C30 and preferably poly(stearyl acrylate) or poly(behenyl acrylate).

[0083] Preferred examples of the lipophilic thickening agent according to the present invention include polymers with the INCI name "Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate" (poly(alkyl acrylate in C10-C30)), for example the Intelimer® products from Air Products, for example the Intelimer® IPA 13-1 product, and polymers with the INCI name Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate under the trade name TEGO SP13-1 MB from Evonik (Air Products).

[0084] Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the lipophilic thickening agent according to the present invention are non-crosslinked.

[0085] Preferably, the lipophilic thickening agent according to the present invention is chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, preferably chosen from semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable chains, semi-crystalline polymers carrying in the skeleton at least one crystallizable block, and mixtures thereof.

[0086] More preferably, the lipophilic thickening agent according to the present invention is chosen from polymers resulting from the polymerization of monomer(s) comprising a C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably in Ci0-C30, preferably chosen from homopolymers of C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a Ci0-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

[0087] More preferably, the lipophilic thickening agent according to the present invention is a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate, for example, a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate sold under the trade name TEGO SP 13-1 by Evonik (Air Products), a C10-30 alkyl polyacrylate sold under the trade name TEGO SP 13-6 by Evonik Materials Netherlands BV, or Intelimer® products from Air Products, for example Intelimer® IPA 13-1.

[0088] Advantageously, the lipophilic thickening agent is present in an amount ranging from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyesters

[0089] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer.

[0090] The unsaturated fatty acid dimer can be monounsaturated or polyunsaturated.

[0091] In the context of this disclosure, the term "unsaturated fatty acid" refers to fatty acids comprising 1 to 6 unsaturations (carbon-carbon double bonds).

[0092] Preferably, the fatty acid of the unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0093] Representatives of these unsaturated fatty acids include palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0094] The unsaturated fatty acid dimer is preferably obtained by an intermolecular polymerization reaction, for example a dimerization reaction, of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. It is preferably derived from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, for example a C16-C22 fatty acid and more preferably a C18 fatty acid.

[0095] Advantageously, the polyester used in the present invention is obtained from linoleic acid dimer.

[0096] It can also be obtained from a mixture containing it. In such a case, it is preferable to use a mixture in which the content of this acid dimer is greater than 70%, preferably greater than 90% by weight, or even more preferably greater than 95% by weight; the remainder of the mixture possibly being trimers and / or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

[0097] In one aspect, the polyester of the composition according to the invention can be obtained by reacting the aforementioned acid dimer with at least one C3-C4 diol which is preferably linear and preferably saturated.

[0098] Preferably, the diol is 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

[0099] Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 400 and 12000 g / mol, preferably between 600 and 10000 g / mol and more preferably between 800 and 8000 g / mol.

[0100] Advantageously, the polyesters have a viscosity between 100 and 100,000 mPa-s at 60 °C, preferably between 100 and 50,000 mPa-s, more preferably between 200 and 10,000 mPa-s.

[0101] Preferably, the polyester is obtained by condensation of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol or of dilinoleic acid and 1,3-propanediol.

[0102] Examples include Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (INCI name), sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H, and Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer (INCI name), sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast Green 3000.

[0103] In another aspect, the polyester of the composition according to the invention can be obtained by reaction of the aforementioned acid dimer with at least one alcohol dimer, the alcohol of which is preferably in Ci6-C32 and more preferably in Ci6-C22.

[0104] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "alcohol dimer" preferably designates diols derived from the corresponding acid dimers, an acid dimer being such as defined above.

[0105] A mixture containing an alcohol dimer may be used, which may further contain other components, for example, an alcohol trimer, an alcohol, and ether-like compounds. It is possible to use mixtures in which the alcohol dimer content exceeds 70% by weight; preferably, a high-purity alcohol dimer, such as a mixture in which the alcohol dimer content exceeds 90% by weight, may be used.

[0106] Thus, an alcohol dimer can be derived from an acid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid, for example, a fatty acid in C16 to C32, such as those mentioned above, preferably a fatty acid in C16 to C22 and more preferably a fatty acid in C18.

[0107] Preferably, the alcohol dimer is derived from the reduction of the acid functions of dilinoleic acid.

[0108] More preferably, it is the alcohol dimer obtained by dimerization of linoleic acid, followed by the reduction of the acid functions.

[0109] For polyesters of an acid dimer and an alcohol dimer, examples include Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI name) sold by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD-DA5® or DD-DA7®, and products sold under the brand name Plandool, for example Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (INCI name) under the name Plandool G.

[0110] Preferably, the polyester of the composition according to the invention is chosen from polyesters of an acid dimer, preferably of dilinoleic acid dimer, and of a C3-C4 diol; polyesters of an acid dimer, preferably of dilinoleic acid dimer, and of an alcohol dimer, the alcohol of which is preferably in Ci6-C32, more preferably in Ci6-C22, the alcohol dimer being preferably the diol derived from said acid dimer; and mixtures thereof.

[0111] More preferably, the polyester of the composition according to the invention is chosen from dilinoleate dimer of dilinoleyl dimer, dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, dilinoleate dimer of bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] More preferably still, the polyester of the composition according to the invention is chosen from dilinoleate dimer of dilinoleyl dimer, dilinoleate dimer of bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] Advantageously, polyester is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0114] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one oil other than polyesters obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer.

[0115] The term "oil" refers to liquid compounds that are immiscible in water, at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

[0116] According to the present invention, the oil can be chosen from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based oils, which can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated.

[0117] Oil or oils based on nonpolar hydrocarbons are, for example, compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, hydrocarbon-type oils).

[0118] Said non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils may be of mineral origin, plant-based or synthetic, for example:

[0119] - liquid paraffin,

[0120] - squalane,

[0121] - isoeicosane,

[0122] - mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, for example of Ci5-C28, such as the mixtures whose INCI names are, for example, the following: Ci5_i9 Alkane (INCI name), Ci8.2i Alkane (INCI name), C2| 2X Alkane (INCI name), for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, and Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC,

[0123] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example products in the range Indopol sold by the company Ineos Oligomers,

[0124] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats,

[0125] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for example the Puresyn® range sold by ExxonMobil,

[0126] - and their mixtures.

[0127] According to the present invention, the oil can be chosen from silicone oils.

[0128] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, for example at least one Si-O group.

[0129] Among silicone oils, we can mention dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethicones, and also their mixtures.

[0130] According to the present invention, the oil can be chosen from vegetable oils.

[0131] Examples of vegetable oils that may be cited include those selected from jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame seed oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosehip oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, squash oil, cucurbit seed oil, oil of hazelnut, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Preferably, the vegetable oil is chosen from sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, sweet almond oil, argan oil, rapeseed oil, jojoba oil and sesame seed oil, alone or in mixtures.

[0133] According to the present invention, the oil can be selected from ester oils, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising in total between 17 and 100 linear or branched carbon atoms, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic.

[0134] Preferably, said ester oils are chosen from among monoesters and polyesters, for example:

[0135] - the monoesters of a monocarboxylic acid and a monoalcohol, for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, mono-alcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, stearate butyl, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate and 2-octyldodecyl myristate;

[0136] - diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols, preferably such as diisostearyl malate, or glycol and monocarboxylic acid diesters, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate or diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0137] - triesters of a tricarboxylic acid and a monoalcohol, such as citrate of triisostearyl or tridecyl trimellitate;

[0138] - total esters of glycerol, diglycerol or pentaerythritol and acids monocarboxylic acids, for example heptanoic acid triglycerides, octanoic acid triglycerides, capric acid triglycerides alone or in mixtures, for example capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, Ci8 36 acid triglycerides; 2-decyl tetradecanoate triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostetrastearate; or pentaerythrityl isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate (INCI name, for example Supermol L products from Croda);

[0139] - and also their mixtures.

[0140] For the purposes of the invention, the expression "total esters of glycerol, diglycerol or pentaerythritol and monocarboxylic acids" means that each hydroxyl group of glycerol, diglycerol or pentaerythritol forms an ester with the monocarboxylic acid.

[0141] According to the present invention, the oil can be selected from ether oils of formula ROR', carbonate oils of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising fewer than 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C3-C16 group. For example, dicaprylyl ether, dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, a C14-C15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.

[0142] Preferably, the oil according to the present invention is chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, vegetable oils, ester oils, ether oils, carbonate oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0143] More preferably, the oil according to the present invention is selected from ester oils, preferably monoesters of a monocarboxylic acid and a monoalcohol, diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monoalcohols or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, triesters of a tricarboxylic acid and a monoalcohol, total esters of glycerol, diglycerol or pentaerythritol and monocarboxylic acids, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected among the total esters of glycerol, diglycerol, or pentaerythritol and monocarboxylic acids, and even more preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, for example that sold under the name JOLEE® 7181 by the company OLEON.

[0144] Advantageously, the oil is present in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% by weight to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 40% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0145] The composition according to the present invention may include one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those classically used in cosmetic products, and preferably lip products.

[0146] The composition according to the present invention may include any of the following additives: biological extracts; perfumes; active ingredients and preservatives.

[0147] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and quantity of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients. Composition

[0148] The composition according to the present invention is applicable to all common cosmetic products, preferably lip products, for example a lip oil.

[0149] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is anhydrous.

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous" means a composition comprising water in a content less than or equal to 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even a composition free of water. Such small quantities of water may, where appropriate, be introduced, in particular, by the composition ingredients, which may contain residual amounts of it.

[0151] The composition according to the present invention has good sensations including shiny, melting and non-sticky sensations, and optionally a moisturizing sensation.

[0152] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. an amount of 0.05% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C; b. an amount of 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from (meth)acrylate polymers; and c. an amount of 5% by weight to 50% by weight of at least one polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer.

[0153] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. an amount of 0.05% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C, chosen from waxes, pasty fatty compounds, and mixtures thereof; b. an amount of 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from polymers resulting from the polymerization of monomer(s) comprising a C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably C10-C30, preferably homopolymers of C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably C10-C30; and c. an amount of 5% by weight to 50% by weight of at least one polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, selected from polyesters of an acid dimer, preferably dilinoleic acid dimer, and a C3-C4 diol; polyesters of an acid dimer, preferably dilinoleic acid dimer, and an alcohol dimer, the alcohol of which is preferably C6-C32, more preferably C6-C22, the alcohol dimer preferably being the diol derived from said acid dimer; and mixtures thereof,

[0154] wherein, if present, the wax has a melting point between 35 °C and 120 °C, preferably between 40 °C and 100 °C, and more preferably from 40 °C to 90 °C, and / or if present, the pasty fatty compound has a melting point between 35 °C and 60 °C, preferably between 35 °C and 50 °C, and more preferably between 35 °C and 45 °C.

[0155] In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: a. 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight of a fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C, chosen from irvingia gabonensis seed butter, sunflower wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof; b. 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of alkyl polyacrylate as CiO₃; and c. 10% by weight to 40% by weight of dilinoleate dimer of dilinoleyl dimer and / or dilinoleate dimer of dilinoleyl dimer of bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl. Method and use

[0156] The composition according to the present invention is used in a process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, by being applied to the keratinous materials.

[0157] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, for example using a finger, a brush or a cotton ball.

[0158] According to the second aspect, the present invention relates to a method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising the application of the above composition to the keratinous materials.

[0159] The present invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, which are given by way of non-limiting illustration. EXAMPLES

[0160] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

[0161] [Tables 1] Name INCI Comm ercial Name Provides a Melting Point TEGO SP 13-1 EVONIK (AIR PROD UCTS) EVONIK (AIR PROD UCTS) REVENGE REVENGE NUTS BUTTER GABONENSIS K ERNEL BUTTER) IRWINOL LS 9890 BASF BEAUTY CARE SOL UTION 40°C WAX OF GRAINS OF TO URNESOL (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS) (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) 74-77°C HYDROGENATED COLZA OIL (and) HYDROGENATED PALME OIL (HYDROGENATED RAPESE ED OIL (and) HYDROGENA TED PALM OIL) DROGENED (HYDRO GENATED RAPESEED OIL) :61-74 °C, HYDROGENED PALM OIL NÉE (HYDROGENATE D PALM OIL): 42-63°C HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL (HYDROGENATE D VEGETABLE OIL) CEGESOFT HF 52 BASF 50-57°C DILINOLEATE DILINOLEYL DIMER (DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE) LUSPLAN DD-DA7 NIPPON FI NE CHEMICAL DILINOLEATE DILINOLEYL DIMER BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER (BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE) PLANDOO LG NIPPON FI NE CHEMICAL

[0162] Comparative Examples 1-5 and Inventive Examples 1-5

[0163] Compositions according to Comparative Examples (EC.) 1-5 and Inventive Examples (Ex.) 1-5 comprising the ingredients listed in Table 2 were prepared, all quantities being expressed as percentages by weight of active materials relative to the total weight of each composition.

[0164] [Tables2] INCI Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 EC. 1 EC .2 EC .3 EC .4 EC .5 DIMER DILINOLEATE E OF DILINOLEYL DIMER (DIMER DILIN OLEYL DIMER DILIN OLEATE) 25 0 25 25 25 0 25 25 0 0 DILINOLEATE DIMER OF DILINOLEYL DIMER OF BIS-BÉHÉN YL / ISOSTEARYL / 0 25 0 0 0 0 0 0 25 25 PHYTOSTERYL (BIS -BEHENYL / ISOSTEAR YL / PHYTOSTERYL DI MER DILINOLEYL DI MER DILINOLEATE) BIS-DIGLYCERY POLYACYLADIPATE-2 (BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE -2) 0 0 0 0 0 25 0 0 0 0 A LKYL POLYACRYLATE EN C10-30 (PO LY ​​C10-30 ALKYL AC RYLATE) 1 1 1 1 1 1 0 1 0 1 IRVINGIA GABONE NSIS KERNEL BUTTER (IRVINGIA GAB ONENSIS KERNEL BU TTER) 0.75 0.75 0 0 0 0.75 0.75 0 0.75 0 SUNFLOWER SEED WAX (HELIA LIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) 0 0 0.25 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 HYDROGENATED RAPESEED OIL (and) HYDROGENATED PALM OIL (and) HYDROGENATED PALM OIL) 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL (HYDROGENATED) 0 0 0 0 0.25 0 0 0 0 0 VEGETABLE OIL) PENTAERYTHRIT YLE TETRAISOSTEARATE (PENTAERYTHR ITYL TETRAISOSTEA RATE) QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS QS Preparation process

[0165] The compositions were prepared using a process comprising the following steps: 1. Adding pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate to an autoclave and raising the temperature to 80 °C; 2. the addition of the C 10-30 alkyl polyacrylate(s) (if present) and Irvingia Gabonensis kernel butter or Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed wax or hydrogenated rapeseed oil (and) hydrogenated palm oil or hydrogenated vegetable oil (if present) in the autoclave at a temperature of 80 °C, and their mixing until homogeneous; 3. Reducing the temperature of the components in the autoclave to 75 °C and, if present, adding dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate or bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimer dilinoleate or bis-2-diglyceryl polyacyladipate, and mixing them until homogeneous; and 4. Cooling the components in the autoclave at room temperature to obtain the final compositions. Testing the sensations

[0166] Six experts were recruited to evaluate the sensations below and assigned scores, each expert applying the same amount of each composition to their lips every day. The degree of each sensation delivered by each composition was rated according to the following standard, and then the scores were averaged for each composition:

[0167] Sensations:

[0168] • Melting sensation: the sensation of melting upon application.

[0169] 4 < Scores < 5: no melting sensation

[0170] 3 < Scores < 4: slightly melting sensation

[0171] 2 < Scores < 3: melting sensation

[0172] 1 < Scores < 2: strong melting sensation

[0173] The lower the score value, the better the melting sensation, where 1 < Scores < 3 was preferable.

[0174] • Brightness sensation: the degree of light reflection or brightness on the lips.

[0175] 4 < Scores < 5: not shiny

[0176] 3 < Scores < 4: slightly brilliant

[0177] 2 < Scores < 3: brilliant

[0178] 1 < Scores < 2: very brilliant

[0179] The lower the score value, the better the brilliant feeling, where 1 < Scores < 3 was preferable.

[0180] • Sticky sensation: the adhesion between the lips. It was evaluated by the strength for To separate the lips, the greater the force used, the greater the stickiness.

[0181] 4 < Scores < 5: non-sticky

[0182] 3 < Scores < 4: slightly sticky

[0183] 2 < Scores < 3: sticky

[0184] 1 < Scores < 2: extremely sticky

[0185] The higher the score value, the better the sticky feeling, where 3 < Scores < 5 was preferable.

[0186] • Moisturizing sensation: sensation of hydration on the lips.

[0187] 4 < Scores < 5: non-hydrating

[0188] 3 < Scores < 4: slightly moisturizing

[0189] 2 < Scores < 3: moisturizing

[0190] 1 < Scores < 2: very moisturizing

[0191] The lower the score value, the better the moisturizing sensation, where 1 < Scores < 3 was preferable.

[0192] The results of the sensation test are shown in Table 3.

[0193] [Tables3] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 EC. 1 EC.2 EC.3 EC.4 EC.5 Average melting sensation score 1.8 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.6 2.6 3.8 1.5 4.0 2.5 Average shiny sensation score 1.8 2.0 1.9 2.2 1.8 3.8 1.5 1.8 2.0 2.3 Average sticky sensation score 4.5 4.0 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.3 4.3 2.5 4.0 2.7 Average hydration sensation score: 2.0 2.2 1.5 1.3 1.7 2.3 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.5

[0194] It can be seen from Table 3 that the compositions of Examples 1-5, comprising at least one fatty compound with a melting point not less than 35 °C; at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from (meth)acrylate polymers; and at least one polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, make it possible to obtain desirable and better glossy, melting, non-sticky and moisturizing sensations.

[0195] On the other hand, the compositions of Comparative Examples 1-5, which do not include the fatty compound whose melting point is not less than 35 °C, the lipophilic thickening agent chosen from (meth)acrylate polymers, or the polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer, do not allow for the simultaneous achievement of the desired shiny, melting and non-sticky sensations.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition, preferably for skincare and / or makeup, of keratinous materials, comprising: (a) at least one fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C; (b) at least one lipophilic thickening agent selected from (meth)acrylate polymers; and (c) at least one polyester obtained from an unsaturated fatty acid dimer.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty compound is selected from waxes, pasty fatty compounds, and mixtures thereof, and if present, the wax has a melting point between 35°C and 120°C, preferably between 40°C and 100°C and more preferably between 40°C and 90°C, and / or if present, the pasty fatty compound has a melting point between 35°C and 60°C, preferably between 35°C and 50°C and more preferably between 35°C and 45°C.

3. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the wax is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based waxes, ester hydrocarbon-based waxes, and mixtures thereof, preferably the wax is selected from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably waxes of vegetable origin, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil(s), and mixtures thereof, and more preferably the wax is selected from sunflower wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of more than one vegetable oil, preferably by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to claim 2, wherein the pasty fat compound is selected from nonpolar hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, ester hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof, preferably the pasty fat compound is selected from vegetable butters, and more preferably the pasty fat compound is Irvingia gabonensis kernel butter.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the lipophilic thickening agent is selected from semi-crystalline polymers, preferably from semi-crystalline polymers containing crystallizable chains, semi-crystalline polymers having at least one crystallizable block in their backbone, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from polymers resulting from the polymerization of monomer(s) comprising a C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably a C10-C30 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably homopolymers of C8-C40 alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably C10-C30, and even more preferably, the lipophilic thickening agent is a C10-C30 alkyl polyacrylate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid of the unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

7. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polyester is selected from polyesters of an acid dimer, preferably dilinoleic acid dimer, and a C3-C4 diol; polyesters of an acid dimer, preferably dilinoleic acid dimer, and an alcohol dimer, the alcohol of which is preferably C6-C32, more preferably C6-C22, the alcohol dimer being preferably the diol derived from said acid dimer; and mixtures thereof; Preferably, the polyester is selected from dilinoleate dimer of dilinoleyl dimer, a dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, a dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer, a dilinoleate dimer of dilinoleyl bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer, and mixtures thereof;and more preferably, the polyester is chosen from dilinoleate dimer of dilinoleyl dimer, dilinoleate dimer of bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer, and mixtures thereof.;

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is anhydrous.

9. A skincare and / or makeup composition of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition: a) 0.05% by weight to 3% by weight of a fatty compound having a melting point not less than 35°C, selected from Irvingia gabonensis seed butter, sunflower wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of palm oil and rapeseed oil, and mixtures thereof; b) 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of alkyl polyacrylate in CiO3O; and c) 10% by weight to 40% by weight of dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate dimer and / or bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytostearyl dimer dilinoleate dimer.

10. A method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, preferably of the lips, comprising: the application of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 on the keratinous materials.