SKIN TREATMENT PROCESS AND KIT

Abstract

SKIN TREATMENT METHOD AND KIT The present invention relates to a skin treatment method comprising the steps of: (1) applying to the skin a first composition comprising: (a) at least one exfoliating agent, and (2) applying to the skin a second composition comprising: (b) at least one active skin care ingredient; and (c) water, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, and the amount of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition. The method according to the present invention can provide a reduced oily or greasy character even though it uses the first composition, which is anhydrous. The method according to the present invention can also ensure good penetration into the skin of the active skin care ingredient(s).Figure for the abridged version: none.

Description

Title of the invention: METHOD AND SKIN TREATMENT KIT technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method and a skin treatment kit with two different compositions. CONTEXT OF THE INVENTION

[0002] In the cosmetics field, there is a type of anhydrous cosmetic that contains no water or only a small amount of water. Typically, anhydrous cosmetics include at least one oil as a main ingredient. Anhydrous cosmetics tend to have a greasy or oily feel after application, which is not comfortable.

[0003] On the other hand, cosmetic compositions that provide skin-care effects are increasingly sought after by users. To achieve these skin-care effects, active skin-care ingredients are generally included in cosmetic compositions, where these active ingredients are intended to penetrate the skin. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

[0004] There is always a need to reduce the fatty or oily character of an anhydrous composition which is thickened.

[0005] In addition, there is another need for a process which can ensure good penetration into the skin of the active skincare ingredient(s).

[0006] An objective of the present invention is to propose a skin treatment process which uses an anhydrous composition which can offer a reduced oily or greasy character, and can also offer good penetration into the skin of the active skin care ingredient(s).

[0007] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a skin treatment process, comprising the steps of: 1. Application to the skin of at least one initial composition, comprising: a. at least one exfoliating agent,

[0008] and 1. Application to the skin of a second composition, comprising: a. at least one active skin-care ingredient; and b. water,

[0009] in which

[0010] the first composition is anhydrous, and

[0011] the quantity of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0012] The (a) scrubbing agent can be chosen from mechanical scrubbing agents, preferably chosen from water-soluble particles, and more preferably water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.

[0013] On the other hand, the (a) scrubbing agent can be chosen from chemical scrubbing agents, preferably chosen from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.

[0014] The quantity of the (a) scrubbing agent(s) in the first composition can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0015] The first composition may further include (d) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol.

[0016] The first composition may further include (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers.

[0017] The first composition may further comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol.

[0018] The (b) active skin care ingredient may be selected from skin brightening agents, skin anti-aging agents, skin moisturizing agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0019] The (b) active skin care ingredient may be selected from the group consisting of C-glycoside derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts such as sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] The (b) active skin care ingredient may be selected from the group consisting of C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; and their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers, preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0021] Therefore, the quantity of the (b) active skin care ingredient(s) in the second composition can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0022] The method according to the present invention may further include a step of massaging or rubbing the skin between step (1) and step (2).

[0023] The present invention also relates to a skin treatment kit, comprising: 1. A first compartment comprising a first composition, including: a. at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol,

[0024] and 1. A second compartment comprising a second composition, including: a. at least one active skincare ingredient; and b. water,

[0025] in which

[0026] the first composition is anhydrous, and

[0027] the quantity of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0028] The (a) scrubbing agent in the first composition of the kit according to the present invention can be chosen from mechanical scrubbing agents, preferably chosen from water-soluble particles, and more preferably water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.

[0029] On the other hand, the (a) scrubbing agent in the first composition in the kit according to the present invention can be chosen from chemical scrubbing agents, preferably chosen from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts and mixtures, and more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone. Best embodiment of the invention

[0030] After diligent research, the inventors discovered that it is possible to propose a skin treatment process which uses an anhydrous composition which can offer a reduced oily or greasy character, and can also offer good penetration into the skin of the active skin care ingredient or ingredients.

[0031] In order to carry out a process that can offer a reduced greasy or oily character and can also offer good penetration into the skin of active ingredient(s) In skincare, the process according to the present invention combines two steps of use, on the one hand, of an anhydrous including at least one exfoliating agent, and on the other hand, of a second, other composition including at least one active skincare ingredient and a substantial amount of water.

[0032] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a skin treatment method, comprising the steps of: 1. Application to the keratinous material of a first composition, comprising: a. at least one scrubbing agent,

[0033] and 1. Application to the keratinous material of a second composition, comprising: a. at least one active skincare ingredient; and b. water,

[0034] in which

[0035] the first composition is anhydrous, and

[0036] the quantity of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0037] The process according to the present invention combines the use of the first composition, which is anhydrous, and the second composition, which includes a substantial amount of (c) water, which can provide a feeling of freshness. Consequently, the process according to the present invention can offer a reduced oily or greasy character, even though it uses the first composition, which is anhydrous.

[0038] Since the first composition includes the (a) exfoliating agent, the first composition can exfoliate the superficial layer of the skin, such as the stratum corneum. This facilitates the penetration into the skin of the (b) active skincare ingredient. Thus, the process according to the present invention can provide good penetration into the skin of the active skincare ingredient(s).

[0039] If the (a) scrubbing agent is chosen from water-soluble particles, the process according to the present invention can also provide a clean skin finish, because the second composition can dissolve the (a) scrubbing agent.

[0040] The present invention will be described in detail below. [Process]

[0041] The skin treatment process according to the present invention comprises the steps of: 1. Application to the keratinous material of a first composition, comprising: a. at least one scrubbing agent,

[0042] and 1. Application to the keratinous material of a second composition, comprising: a. at least one active skincare ingredient; and b. water,

[0043] in which

[0044] the first composition is anhydrous, and

[0045] the quantity of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0046] The first and second compositions used in the process according to the present invention will be described in detail below. {First Composition}

[0047] The first composition used in the process according to the present invention is an anhydrous composition comprising:

[0048] (a) at least one scrubbing agent.

[0049] The term "anhydrous" composition here means a composition which does not include water or includes less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and, more preferably, less than 0.1% by weight of water, relative to the total relative weight of the composition.

[0050] (Scrubbing agent)

[0051] The first composition to be used in the process according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one scrubbing agent. Two (a) or more scrubbing agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of scrubbing agent or a combination of different types of scrubbing agents may be used.

[0052] The exfoliating agent here refers to a substance that can remove a superficial layer of the skin, for example, the stratum corneum or the stratum corneum of the skin.

[0053] The (a) scrubbing agent may be selected from mechanical scrubbing agents, chemical scrubbing agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0054] Mechanical exfoliating agents can remove a superficial layer such as the stratum corneum of the skin by any mechanical action such as rubbing.

[0055] Chemical exfoliating agents can remove a superficial layer such as the stratum corneum of the skin by any chemical action such as the dissolution of the superficial layer.

[0056] The mechanical scrubbing agent can be chosen from water-soluble particles.

[0057] Water-soluble particle:

[0058] The term "water soluble" here refers to substances having a solubility of at least 1 g / L, preferably of at least 10 g / L and, more preferably, of at least 100 g / L, in water at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0059] Preferably, the water-soluble particles are insoluble in oil, i.e., they have a solubility of less than 1 g / l, preferably less than 0.1 g / l, in oils.

[0060] Water-soluble particles can have any shape: platelet, spherical, oblong or multiangular, regardless of their crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).

[0061] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the water-soluble particles can function as water-soluble desquamating particles. The water-soluble particle, acting as a desquamating particle, can physically disrupt the skin, particularly the stratum corneum. In this embodiment, the water-soluble particles can be formed as hard, sharp-edged, rough-surfaced particles. The sharp-edged particles can be created in the form of a polypyrramide.

[0062] In specific embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have a side ratio of at least 1.1, preferably at least 1.2, and more preferably at least 1.5, even more preferably at least 2, and in particular at least 2.5. In other embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have a side ratio of 2 or less, preferably 1.5 or less, and more preferably 1.2 or less. The side ratio can be measured by a technology currently available in the art, for example, image analysis using an electron microscope.

[0063] In other specific embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an average circularity determined by an image analysis method of 0.95 or less, preferably 0.9 or less, and more preferably 0.85 or less, and even more preferably 0.8 or less. In other embodiments of the present invention, the water-soluble particles may have an average circularity determined by an image analysis method of 0.7 or more, preferably 0.8 or more, more preferably 0.85 or more, and even more preferably 0.9 or more.

[0064] The "average circularity" can be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" can be an arithmetic mean of the circularity obtained by image analysis of an electron microscope image. scanning (SEM) of no less than 2000 particles observed at a magnification of 1000 by detection of secondary electrons using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0065] The "circularity" of each particle is a value determined by the following formula:

[0066] C = 4irS / L2

[0067] where C represents a circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the particle in the image. As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each of the particles becomes more spherical.

[0068] The water-soluble particles may have an average primary particle size of 10 µm or more, preferably 30 µm or more, more preferably 50 µm or more, and even more preferably 100 µm or more, and in particular 200 µm or more. The average primary particle size of the water-soluble particles may be 1 mm or less, preferably 800 µm or less, more preferably 600 µm or less, and even more preferably 500 µm or less.

[0069] The expression "average primary particle size" used here represents an average diameter in volumetric average size which is given by the statistical particle size distribution at half the population, designated by D50. For example, the average diameter in volumetric average size can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer, such as the Mastersizer 2000 from Malvern Corp.

[0070] The substances in the water-soluble particles are not particularly limited as long as they dissolve on contact with water. However, preferably, the water-soluble particles may be composed of ingredients that are cosmetically beneficial to the skin.

[0071] For example, water-soluble particles may be composed of polysaccharides, monosaccharides, amino acids, sugar alcohols, ascorbic acids, and mixtures thereof. Polysaccharides may include disaccharides, such as sucrose, lactose, and maltose, and trisaccharides, such as raffinose, and mucopolysaccharides, such as chondroitin sulfate and heparin. Monosaccharides may include pentose, hexose, and heptose, such as glucose, dextrose, galactose, mannose, and glucuronic acid. Sugar alcohols may include sorbitol and glucamines. Ascorbic acids may include vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivative, such as ascorbyl glucoside.

[0072] It is preferable that the water-soluble particle comprise polysaccharide particles and, more preferably, sucrose.

[0073] Thus, in one embodiment, it is preferable that the (a) scrubbing agent be chosen from among mechanical scrubbing agents, more preferably chosen from among water-soluble particles, and even more preferably from among water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.

[0074] The chemical exfoliating agent may be selected from polyhydroxy acids. Polyhydroxy acid#:

[0075] The term "polyhydroxy acid" used herein refers to an organic compound that comprises at least one carboxyl group and a plurality of hydroxyl groups. The number of carboxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is even more preferable. The number of hydroxyl groups in the polyhydroxy acid is also not limited, but 2 to 10 are preferable, and 2 to 6 are even more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the polyhydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 atoms are preferable, and 3 to 8 atoms are even more preferable.

[0076] The above organic compound may be aliphatic or aromatic. In other words, the polyhydroxy acid may be chosen from aliphatic or aromatic polyhydroxy acids. Preferably, the aliphatic polyhydroxy acid may be chosen from sugar acids.

[0077] Examples of polyhydroxy acids include dihydroxypropanoic acid such as glyceric acid; trihydroxybutanoic acid such as erythronic acid and threonic acid; tetrahydroxypentanoic acid such as ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid and lyxonic acid; pentahydroxyhexanoic acid such as allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid and talonic acid; hexahydroxyheptanoic acid such as glucoheptanoic acid, galactoheptonic acid; tartaric acid; lactobionic acid, maltobionic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0078] It is preferable for the polyhydroxy acid to be in the form of a lactone. The lactone ring of the polyhydroxy acid in the lactone form can be saturated. Examples of polyhydroxy acids in the lactone form include gluconolactone, ribonolactone, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] It is more preferable that the (a) scrubbing agent be gluconolactone.

[0080] The polyhydroxy acid can be in the form of a salt.

[0081] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salts and potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferred. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0082] The chemical scrubbing agent can be chosen from monohydroxy acids. Monohydroxyacid#:

[0083] The term "monohydroxy acid" used here refers to an organic compound that has at least one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group. The number of carboxyl groups in the monohydroxy acid is not limited, but one or two carboxyl groups are preferable, and a single carboxyl group is more preferable. The number of carbon atoms in the monohydroxy acid is not limited, but 3 to 11 are preferable, and 3 to 8 are more preferable.

[0084] The monohydroxyl acid can be chosen from alpha-monohydroxy acids, beta-monohydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.

[0085] The term "alpha-monohydroxy acid" here refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group separated by a carbon atom. In other words, an alpha-monohydroxy acid is a carboxylic acid that has a hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

[0086] The alpha-monohydroxy acid can be chosen from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, citric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably glycolic acid.

[0087] The term “beta-monohydroxyacid” here refers to a carboxylic acid which has at least one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group separated by two carbon atoms.

[0088] The beta-monohydroxy acid may be salicylic acid.

[0089] The monohydroxy acid can take the form of a salt.

[0090] The type of salt is not limited. Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; zinc salts; iron salts; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. Sodium salt is preferred. If two or more salts are used, they may be the same or different.

[0091] It is preferable that the chemical scrubbing agent be chosen from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts and mixtures and, more preferably, gluconolactone, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, and one of their mixtures.

[0092] Thus, in one embodiment, it is preferable that the (a) scrubbing agent be chosen from chemical scrubbing agents, more preferably chosen from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.

[0093] The quantity of the (a) scrubbing agent(s) in the first composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0094] Furthermore, the quantity of the (a) scrubbing agent(s) in the first composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0095] Thus, the quantity of the (a) scrubbing agent(s) in the first composition can be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0096] (Oil)

[0097] The first composition used for the process according to the present invention may comprise (d) at least one oil. Two (d) or more oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0098] As used herein, the term "oil" refers to a fatty compound or a fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or a paste (not a solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). The (d) oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0099] The (d) oil here is not fatty alcohol. Thus, the (d) oil is different from the (f) fatty alcohol.

[0100] The (d) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0101] It may be preferable that the (d) oil be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable origin, synthetic oils such as ester oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Examples of vegetable oils may be cited, for example, the following oils: linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, squalene, natural triglyceride and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as hydrogenated polyolefin (e.g., C6-C20), ester oils (e.g., ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate), ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

[0104] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Ci-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0105] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

[0106] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, the following may be mentioned: ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate and mixtures thereof.

[0107] Esters of dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and sugar-free dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols in C4-C26, can also be used.

[0108] The following may be mentioned in particular: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0109] As ester oils, esters and sugar diesters of C6-C30 fatty acids, and preferably C2-C22, may be used. It should be noted that the term "sugar" refers to oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0110] Examples of suitable sugars that may be cited include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, including alkylated derivatives, such as methylated derivatives, for example methylglucose.

[0111] Sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and fatty acids in C6-C30, and preferably in C2-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0112] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0114] Monoesters and diesters are used in particular, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

[0115] An example that can be cited is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0116] By way of examples of preferred ester oils, one may cite, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyle propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, the isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Examples of ether oils include dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0118] Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate), and mixtures thereof.

[0119] The first composition may comprise at least one silicone oil. Examples of silicone oils include, for instance, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogen polysiloxane and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as that octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0120] Preferably, the oily phase of the present invention does not include silicone oil. In other words, the (d) oil of the present invention can be chosen from a non-silicone oil.

[0121] The first composition may comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil. Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:

[0122] - lower linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-Ci6 alkanes. Examples that can be cited include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0123] - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

[0124] Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is derived from renewable resources such as plants.

[0125] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbon oils such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, Vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0126] It is preferable that the (d) oil be chosen from the group consisting of vegetable oils, ester oils, and a mixture thereof.

[0127] It is more preferable that the (d) oil be chosen from the group consisting of vegetable oils such as jojoba oil, carbonate oils such as dicaprylyl carbonate, artificial triglyceride oils such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, hydrocarbon oils such as squalane, and a mixture thereof.

[0128] The quantity of the oil(s) in the first composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more and, more preferably, 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0129] Furthermore, the quantity of the oil(s) in the first composition may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0130] Therefore, the quantity of the oil(s) in the first composition can range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight and, more preferably, from 70% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0131] (Organic lipophilic gelling agent)

[0132] The first composition used in the process according to the present invention may comprise (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent. Two (e) or more organic lipophilic gelling agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of organic lipophilic gelling agent or a combination of different types of organic lipophilic gelling agents may be used.

[0133] Herein, "lipophilic" means substances soluble in oils at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the oils at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0134] The term “gelling agent” here means that the ingredient (e) can thicken or increase the viscosity of the first composition.

[0135] If the first composition comprises (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent, the first composition is thickened, and may have suitable applicability, for example, without dripping during application.

[0136] The first composition is preferably in the form of a gel, for example, an oil gel.

[0137] The term "gel" here includes a thick liquid that may be a Newtonian fluid or a non-Newtonian fluid. A Newtonian fluid is a fluid whose viscosity does not change with a change in flow conditions. The gel also contains a shear-thinning gel.

[0138] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first composition may be a gel having a non-Newtonian viscosity. In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the first composition may be shear-thinning. The non-Newtonian shear-thinning material transitions from a gel to a liquid state in the presence of an applied shear stress and reverts to a gel in the absence of the applied shear stress. By definition, a shear-thinning material is a material in which, when an applied shear stress is increased, the viscosity of the material decreases non-linearly.

[0139] The first composition can be characterized by its rheological characteristics. The first composition can have a storage modulus (G') of 50 Pa to 10,000 Pa, preferably from 100 Pa to 7,500 Pa and more preferably from 500 Pa to 5,000 Pa.

[0140] The conservation modulus (G') can be measured using a 40 mm parallel plate rheometer under the following conditions:

[0141] Spacing: 500 mm

[0142] Temperature: 25 °C

[0143] Deformation (%): 1%

[0144] Frequency: 1 Hz

[0145] The first anhydrous composition may have suitable applicability if its storage modulus (G') is 50 Pa or more and 10,000 Pa or less, because a storage modulus (G') of 50 Pa or more may make the first composition difficult to break before application, and a storage modulus (G') of 10,000 Pa or less may not make the first composition a hard solid that is difficult to apply.

[0146] If the first composition has the preservative modulus (G'), the (a) exfoliating agent can be well dispersed in the first composition and, consequently, the first composition can effectively exfoliate the superficial layer of skin such as the stratum corneum of the skin.

[0147] The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent is selected from urethane polymers. The term "urethane polymer" here refers to a polymer comprising at least one urethane (-NH-COO-) bond. Preferably, the urethane polymer includes a plurality of urethane bonds, and more preferably, a plurality of repeating units, each of which includes at least one urethane bond, and in particular, a plurality of urethane bonds.

[0148] The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be cross-linked or not. It is preferable that the (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent be cross-linked.

[0149] The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be in the form of particles, preferably spherical. The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent in the form of particles may have a number-average particle size ranging, for example, from 1 µm to 20 µm. The term "number-average size" refers to the dimension given by the random distribution of particle size to half of the population, called D50. The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be in the form of a powder.

[0150] The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be a copolymer. The (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent may be a copolymer of isocyanate and trimethylol hexyllactone, in particular, a crosslinked polymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) / trimethylol hexyllactone. Examples of the copolymer include the urethane polymer powder sold by Toshiki Pigment under the names Plastic Powder D-400®, Plastic Powder D-800®, or Plastic Powder CS-400®, or sold by Lubrizol under the name Oilkemia® 5S CC Polymer.

[0151] Preferably, as (e) organic lipophilic gelling agent, the first composition may comprise a crosslinked polymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) / trimethylol hexyllactone, for example, sold by the Lubrizol company under the name Oilkemia® 5 S CC Polymer.

[0152] The quantity of the organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) in the first composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or plus, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0153] Furthermore, the quantity of the organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) in the first composition may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0154] The quantity of the organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) in the first composition may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0155] The organic lipophilic gelling agent(s) can thicken the first composition even if their quantity is small, such as 5% by weight or less, preferably 4% by weight or less, and more preferably 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0156] (Fatty alcohol)

[0157] The first composition to be used in the process according to the present invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty alcohol. Two (f) or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of fatty alcohols may be used.

[0158] The term "fatty" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols with 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. A fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

[0159] The (f) fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH in which R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from Ci2-C24 alkyl and Ci2-C24 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0160] The (f) fatty alcohol can be selected from linear or branched fatty alcohols.

[0161] By way of non-limiting examples of linear fatty alcohols, one may mention lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0162] Examples of suitable linear fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0163] The (f) fatty alcohol may represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohol may coexist, in the form of a mixture, in a commercial product.

[0164] Thus, according to at least one embodiment, the (f) fatty alcohol used in the first composition is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

[0165] Non-limiting examples of branched fatty alcohols that may be cited include hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0166] It is preferable that the (f) fatty alcohol be in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

[0167] It is preferable that the (f) fatty alcohol be chosen from among the branched fatty alcohols and, more preferably, from the group consisting of hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol, and one of their mixtures.

[0168] The amount of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the first composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0169] Furthermore, the quantity of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the first composition may be 40% by weight or less, preferably 30% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0170] The quantity of the (f) fatty alcohol(s) in the first composition may be from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and, more preferably, from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0171] (Optional ingredients)

[0172] The first anhydrous composition may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients generally used in cosmetics, specifically, lipophilic thickeners other than ingredient (e); waxes; antioxidants; preservatives; and the like, within a range that does not affect the effects of the present invention.

[0173] The first composition may include the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.

[0174] (Preparation)

[0175] The first composition can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if any, as explained above.

[0176] The process and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional process and means may be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the first composition.

[0177] (Form)

[0178] The first composition which is anhydrous may be transparent.

[0179] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (turbidity can, for example, be measured with a 2100Q incandescent lamp (marketed by Hach Company) equipped with a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm high) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm, preferably from 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be carried out on the undiluted composition. The blank test can be evaluated with distilled water.

[0180] The first composition may have a turbidity of 200 NTU or less, preferably 150 NTU or less, more preferably 100 NTU or less, more preferably 50 NTU or less, more preferably 30 NTU or less, and even more preferably 10 NTU or less.

[0181] The first composition may take various forms, such as a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion or similar. {Second Composition}

[0182] The second composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises:

[0183] (b) at least one active skincare ingredient; and

[0184] (c) water,

[0185] in which

[0186] the amount of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0187] The second composition can be an aqueous composition because it includes a substantial amount of (c) water.

[0188] (Skin care active ingredient)

[0189] The second composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one skincare active ingredient. Two or more skincare active ingredients may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of skincare active ingredient, or a combination of different types of skincare active ingredients, may be used.

[0190] It is preferable that the (b) active skin care ingredient has a logP value ranging from -4.5 to 4.5, preferably from -4.0 to 4.0, and more preferably from -3.5 to 3.5.

[0191] A log P value is the base-ten logarithm of the apparent octan-l-ol / water partition coefficient. Log P values ​​are known and are determined by a standard test that determines the concentration of a compound in question in octan-l-ol and water. Log P can be calculated according to the method described in the article by Meylan and Howard: Atom / Fragment contribution method for estimating octanol-water partition coefficients, J. Pharm. Sci., 84: 83-92, 1995. This value can also be calculated using many commercially available software packages that determine log P based on the structure of a molecule. For example, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency's Epiwin software.

[0192] The values ​​can be calculated using the ACD (Advanced Chemistry Development) Solaris V4.67 software; they can also be obtained from Exploring QSAR: hydrophobia, electronic and steric constants (a reference work for professionals, ACS, 1995). There is also a website that provides estimated values ​​(address: http: / / esc.syrres.com / interkow / kowdemo.htm).

[0193] The (b) skin care active ingredient may be in the form of a salt. Salts of the (b) skin care active ingredient include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds, such as those formed from an acid or a base.

[0194] Preferably, (b) the skin care active ingredient should be a cosmetic skin care active ingredient and, more preferably, a skin brightening agent or an anti-aging skin ingredient such as an anti-wrinkle agent. The term "skin brightening agent" here refers to an agent for increasing the brightness or radiance of the skin. Thus, "skin brightening agent" can be reformulated as "skin whitening agent".

[0195] Examples of (b) active skin care ingredients include vitamin B3 and its derivatives.

[0196] Vitamin B3, also known as vitamin PP, is a compound with the following formula: — R

[0197] in which R may be -CONH2 (niacinamide), -COH (nicotinic acid or niacin), or CH2OH (nicotinic alcohol), -CO-NH-CH2-COOH (nicotinuric acid) or -CO-NH-OH (niconityl hydroxamic acid). Niacinamide is preferred.

[0198] Vitamin B3 derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopherol nicotinate, amides derived from niacinamide by substitution of the hydrogen groups of -CONH2, reaction products with carboxylic acids and amino acids, alcohol esters nicotinyl and carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid or palmitic acid.

[0199] Other derivatives may also be mentioned: 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N,N-dimethylnicotinamide, N-(hydroxymethyl)nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, N-benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine, methyl nicotinate and sodium nicotinate.

[0200] Other derivatives of vitamin B3 that may also be cited include its inorganic salts, such as chlorides, bromides, iodides or carbonates, and its organic salts, such as salts obtained by reaction with carboxylic acids, such as acetate, salicylate, glycolate, lactate, malate, citrate, mandelate, tartrate, etc.

[0201] Ascorbic acid and its derivatives may be cited as (b) an active ingredient in skin care.

[0202] Ascorbic acid is generally in L form, since it is usually extracted from natural products.

[0203] Because of its chemical structure (α-keto lactone) which makes it very sensitive to certain environmental parameters such as light, heat and aqueous media, it may be advantageous to use ascorbic acid in the form of a derivative or analogue chosen, for example, from ascorbic acid saccharide esters or phosphoryl ascorbic acid metal salts, alkali metal salts, esters and sugars.

[0204] The saccharide esters of ascorbic acid that can be used in the present invention include, in particular, glycosylated, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, galactosyl, N-acetylucosamine, and N-acetylmuramic derivatives of ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ascorbyl glucoside such as ascorbyl-2 glucoside, 2-OaD-glucopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid, or 6-O-[3-D-galactopyranosyl L-ascorbic acid. These latter compounds and the processes for their preparation are described in particular in documents EP-A-0 487 404, EP-A-0 425 066, and JP 05 213 736.

[0205] As regards the metallic salt of phosphoryl ascorbic acid, it may be chosen from alkali metals, and in particular sodium, ascorbyl phosphates, alkaline earth metal ascorbyl phosphates and transition metal ascorbyl phosphates.

[0206] It is also possible to use precursors of ascorbic acid such as active agent amides and active agent saccharide derivatives, which involve Proteases or peptidases and glycosidases respectively act as enzymes to release ascorbic acid in situ. These compounds are described in patent EP 0 667 145.

[0207] The active agent saccharide derivatives are particularly selected from C3 to C6 saccharide derivatives. They are particularly selected from glucosyl, mannosyl, fructosyl, fucosyl, N-acetylglucosamine, galactosyl and N-acetylgalactosamine derivatives, N-acetylmuramic acid derivatives and sialic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0208] Secondary precursors of ascorbic acid can be selected from derivatives that are hydrolyzed by other enzymes, for example, esterases, phosphatases, sulfatases, etc. According to the present invention, secondary precursors of the active agent can be selected, for example, from phosphates; sulfates; palmitates; acetates; propionates; ferulates and, in general, alkyl or acyl esters; alkyl or acyl ethers of the active agent. The acyl and alkyl radicals, in particular, contain from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is an example of a skin-care active ingredient.

[0209] In particular, the second precursor may be an ester derived from the reaction with a mineral acid such as a sulfate or a phosphate to react with a sulfatase or a phosphatase on contact with the skin, and the second precursor may be an acyl or alkyl ester derived from the reaction with an organic acid, for example palmitic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, nicotinic acid, 1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid or ferulic acid to react with a specific skin esterase.

[0210] Other derivatives are described, for example, in patent EP 1 430 883.

[0211] Analogues of ascorbic acid are more particularly its salts, especially alkali metal salts, for example sodium ascorbate, its esters, especially its acetic, propionic or palmitic esters, or its sugars, especially glycosyl ascorbic acid.

[0212] As (b) skin care active ingredient, one can cite resorcinol derivatives.

[0213] The resorcinol derivative may preferably be derivatives substituted at position 4, such as 4-alkylresorcinols, more preferably phenylethyl resorcinol, 4-n-butylresorcinol, and 4-(tetrahydro-2H-pyran-4-yl)benzene-1,3-diol, and in particular phenylethyl resorcinol because of its skin-lightening or whitening effect. Phenylethyl resorcinol is also called 4-(l-phenylethyl)-l,3-benzenediol and is represented by the following chemical formula. Phenylethyl resorcinol may be obtained, for example, from Symrise Corp (product name: Symwhite 377®). HQ v OH

[0214] Other examples of resorcinol derivatives include: 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 4-methylresorcinol, 4-ethylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 4,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,4-dimethyl-1,3-benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzylamine, 5-methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-dihydroxybenzyl alcohol, 2-methoxyresorcinol, 4-methoxyresorcinol, 3,5-dihydroxytoluene monohydrate, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2',4'-dihydroxyacetophenone, 3',5'-dihydroxyacetophenone, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methylbenzaldehyde, 4-propylresorcinol, 2,4-dihydroxy-1,3,5-trimethylbenzene, 3,5-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,6-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzyl alcohol, 3,5-dihydroxyanisole hydrate, 4-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride, 2-aminoresorcinol hydrochloride,5-Aminobenzene-1,3-diol hydrochloride, 2',4'-dihydroxypropiophenone, 2',4'-dihydroxy-3'-methylacetophenone, (2,4-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, (3,5-dihydroxyphenyl)acetone, 2,6-dihydroxy-4'-methylacetophenone, 4-n-butylresorcinol, 2,4-diethyl-1,3-benzenediol, 3,5-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylbenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylbenzoic acid, 3,5-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid, 2-ethyl-5-methoxybenzene-1,3-diol, 4-amino-3,5-dihydroxybenzoic acid, monohydrate of 3,5-Dihydroxyacetophenone, 3,5-Dihydroxybenzylamine hydrochloride, 4,6-Dichlororesorcinol, 2',4'-Dihydroxy-3'-Methylpropiophenone, L-(3-Ethyl-2,6-Dihydroxyphenyl)ethan-L-one, 2',6'-Dihydroxy-4'-Methoxyacetophenone, L-(2,6-Dihydroxy-3-Methoxyphenyl)ethan-L-one, 3(2,4-Dihydroxyphenylpropionic acid and 2,4-Dihydroxy-3,6-Dimethylbenzoic acid.

[0215] As (b) active skin care ingredient, C-glycoside derivatives may be cited.

[0216] The C-glycoside derivative(s) that may be present in the composition according to the present invention may be chosen from the compounds of general formula (II) below: (II) S ~X™R

[0217] in which:

[0218] - R denotes a linear alkyl radical not substituted at C1-C4 and in particular at Ci-C2, in particular methyl;

[0219] - S represents a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, N- acetyl-D-glucosamine and L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose; and

[0220] - X represents a group selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)- and -CH(NH2)- and of preferably a -CH(OH)- group,

[0221] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

[0222] By way of non-limiting illustrations of C-glycoside derivatives more particularly suited to use in the present invention, the following derivatives may be cited in particular:

[0223] C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0224] C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0225] C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0226] C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;

[0227] l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0228] -l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0229] l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0230] l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0231] 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one;

[0232] 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propane-2'-one;

[0233] -l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;

[0234] l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;

[0235] as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

[0236] According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and, better still, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, can be advantageously used for the preparation of the second composition.

[0237] According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside derivative suitable for use in the present invention may advantageously be hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, known as C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxpropane, sold in particular as a 30% wt. solution in a water / propylene glycol (60 / 40) mixture under the name Mexoryl SBB® by Chimex. According to a In production, the C-glycoside derivative is presented as a solution in which it is present in an amount of 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the solution, the remainder being a mixture of water and propylene glycol.

[0238] Salts of C-glycoside derivatives suitable for use in the present invention may include conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or mineral acids. Salts of mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid may be mentioned by way of example. Reference may also be made to salts of organic acids, which may include one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. These may be linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may also include one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example, in the form of hydroxyl groups. Propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid may be mentioned in particular.

[0239] Solvates that are acceptable for the compounds described above include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Examples include solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0240] A C-glycoside derivative suitable for use in the present invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in document WO 02 / 051 828.

[0241] In one embodiment, it is preferable that the (b) skin care active ingredient be selected from the group consisting of C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; and their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers, more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and even more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

[0242] The (b) active skin care ingredient may be selected from hyaluronic acid and its salts.

[0243] Hyaluronic acid is a predominant glucosaminoglycan found in the skin. Fibroblasts primarily synthesize collagen, matrix glycoproteins other than collagen (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans, and elastin. Keratinocytes, on the other hand, primarily synthesize sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan.

[0244] Hyaluronic acid is present in its free state in the epidermis and dermis and is responsible for skin turgor. This polysaccharide can actually retain a large volume of water, corresponding to 1000 times its weight. In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amount of bound water in tissues, as well as in the mechanical properties of the skin and in the formation of wrinkles.

[0245] Hyaluronic acid can be represented by the following chemical formula.

[0247] In the context of the present invention, the term "hyaluronic acid" specifically covers the basic hyaluronic acid formula:

[0248] This is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

[0249] Examples of salts include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0250] The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid or its salt is not limited. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid may be 5 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and more preferably 100 kDa or more. The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid or its salt may be 20 MDa or less, preferably 10 MDa or less and, more preferably, 2000 kDa or less. Thus, the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid can be from 5 kDa to 20 MDa, preferably from 20 kDa to 10 MDa and, more preferably, from 100 kDa to 2000 kDa.

[0251] Unless otherwise defined in the descriptions, "molecular weight" may refer to an average molecular weight by weight.

[0252] Hyaluronic acid and its salts can act as a humectant or moisturizing agent for the skin.

[0253] It is preferable that the (b) active skin care ingredient be selected from skin brightening agents, skin anti-aging agents, skin moisturizing agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0254] It is preferable that the (b) active skin care ingredient be selected from the group consisting of C-glycoside derivatives, salicylic acid and its derivatives, polyhydroxy acids and their salts, hyaluronic acid and its salts such as sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof.

[0255] The amount of (b) active skin care ingredient(s) in the second composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0256] Furthermore, the quantity of the (b) active skin care ingredient(s) in the second composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0257] Therefore, the quantity of the (b) active skin care ingredient(s) in the second composition may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0258] (Water)

[0259] The second composition used in the process according to the present invention comprises (c) water.

[0260] The amount of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0261] Furthermore, the amount of (c) water in the second composition may be 99% by weight or less, preferably 97% by weight or less, and more preferably 95% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0262] The quantity of (c) water in the second composition may be from 40% to 99% by weight, preferably from 50% to 97% by weight, and more preferably from 60% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0263] (Optional ingredients)

[0264] The second composition may include, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, one or more optional ingredients generally used in cosmetics, specifically oils: surfactants: emulsifiers: hydrophilic thickeners; polyols; preservatives; and the like, within a range that does not affect the effects of the present invention.

[0265] The second composition may include the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 40% by weight, and more preferably 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0266] If the second composition includes at least one oil, the above explanations concerning (d) oil for the first composition can also be applied to the oil in the second composition.

[0267] If the second composition includes at least one oil, typically with surfactants or emulsifiers, the second composition may be in the form, for example, of an O / W emulsion or an O / W dispersion.

[0268] If the second composition includes at least one oil, the quantity of the oil or oils in the second composition may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0269] If the second composition comprises at least one polyol such as glycerin, the amount of the polyol in the second composition may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 30% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0270] (Preparation)

[0271] The second composition can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if any, as explained above.

[0272] The process and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional process and means may be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the second composition.

[0273] (Form)

[0274] The second composition may be transparent.

[0275] Transparency can be measured by measuring turbidity (turbidity can, for example, be measured with a 2100Q incandescent lamp (marketed by Hach Company) with a round cell (25 mm in diameter and 60 mm high) and a tungsten filament lamp capable of emitting visible light (between 400 and 800 nm). nm, preferably 400 to 500 nm). The measurement can be performed on the undiluted composition. The blank test can be evaluated with distilled water.

[0276] The second composition may have a turbidity of 200 NTU or less, preferably 150 NTU or less, more preferably 100 NTU or less, more preferably 50 NTU or less, more preferably 30 NTU or less, and even more preferably 10 NTU or less.

[0277] The second composition may take various forms, such as a lotion, serum, suspension, dispersion or similar. {Steps}

[0278] The method according to the present invention comprises the first step (1) of applying the first composition to skin, and the second step (2) of applying the second composition to the skin. The second step (2) follows the first step (1).

[0279] The term "skin" here encompasses the skin of the face, the skin of the neck, and the scalp. The method according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes such as the lips and the like.

[0280] The process according to the present invention is a non-therapeutic process, preferably a cosmetic process, and more preferably a cosmetic skin care process.

[0281] The method of applying the first or second composition to the skin is not particularly limited, and any method known in the art may be used. In general, the first or second composition may be applied by hand.

[0282] The method according to the present invention may further include a skin massage or rubbing step between the first step (1) and the second step (2). In other words, the skin to which the first composition has been applied may be massaged or rubbed. The massage or rubbing may be performed by any means, such as the fingers. The massage or rubbing step may be performed for at least 10 seconds. This massage or rubbing step may promote the disturbance or exfoliation of the skin surface, in particular the stratum corneum, by the (a) exfoliating agent in the first composition. This massage or rubbing step may further enhance the penetration into the skin of the (b) active skin-care ingredient.

[0283] The process according to the present invention may further include a step of removing the anhydrous composition from the skin. This removal step may be carried out, for example, by rinsing with water.

[0284] The above massage or rubbing step and / or the above removal step may be carried out before applying the second composition to the skin.

[0285] After applying the second composition to the skin, the process according to the present invention may further include a step of leaving the second composition on the skin for a certain period of time, such as a few minutes, to ensure penetration into the skin of the (b) active skincare ingredient.

[0286] After applying the second composition to the skin, the process according to the present invention may or may not include a step of removing the second composition from the skin. This removal step may be carried out, for example, by rinsing with water. {Methods of implementation}

[0287] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of: 1. application to the skin of at least one first composition, comprising: a. at least one exfoliating agent,

[0288] in which

[0289] the first composition is anhydrous,

[0290] The amount of (a) scrubbing agent in the first composition is 0.01% at 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0291] and 1. Application to the skin of a second composition, comprising: a. at least one active skincare ingredient; and b. water

[0292] in which

[0293] the quantity of (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and

[0294] the amount of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more.

[0295] According to a more preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of: 1. Application to the skin of at least one first composition, comprising:

[0296] (a1) at least one exfoliating agent selected from mechanical exfoliating agents and chemical scrubbing agents,

[0297] in which

[0298] the first composition is anhydrous,

[0299] the quantity of (a1) scrubbing agent in the first composition is 0.05% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0300] and 1. Application to the skin of a second composition, comprising:

[0301] (b1) at least one active skin care ingredient selected from the agents skin lighteners, anti-aging skin agents, moisturizing skin agents, and mixtures thereof; and

[0302] (c) water

[0303] in which

[0304] the quantity of (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and

[0305] The amount of (c) water in the second composition is 50% by weight or more.

[0306] According to a further preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of: 1. application to the skin of at least one first composition, comprising:

[0307] (a) at least one exfoliating agent selected from water-soluble particles such as sugars, polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts and mixtures thereof,

[0308] in which

[0309] the first composition is anhydrous,

[0310] the quantity of (a) scrubbing agent in the first composition is 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0311] and 1. application to the skin of a second composition, comprising:

[0312] (b") at least one active skin care ingredient selected from the group consisting in C-glycoside derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts such as sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof; and

[0313] (c) water

[0314] in which

[0315] the amount of (b) the active skincare ingredient in the second composition is 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and

[0316] the amount of (c) water in the second composition is 60% by weight or more.

[0317] According to a preferred embodiment in another aspect of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of: 1. application to the skin of at least one first composition, comprising:

[0318] (a) at least one exfoliating agent,

[0319] (d) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol;

[0320] (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from polymers of urethane; and

[0321] (f) at least one fatty alcohol,

[0322] in which

[0323] the first composition is anhydrous,

[0324] The quantity of (a) scrubbing agent in the first composition is 0.01% at 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0325] the quantity of (d) oil in the first composition is 50% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0326] the quantity of (e) lipophilic gelling agent in the first composition is 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and

[0327] the quantity of (f) fatty alcohol in the first composition is from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0328] and 1. Application to the skin of a second composition, comprising:

[0329] (b) at least one active skincare ingredient; and

[0330] (c) water

[0331] in which

[0332] the quantity of (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and

[0333] the quantity of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more.

[0334] According to a more preferred embodiment in another aspect of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of: 1. Application to the skin of at least one first composition, comprising:

[0335] (a1) at least one exfoliating agent selected from mechanical exfoliating agents and chemical scrubbing agents,

[0336] (d1) at least one oil selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils, Ester oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof;

[0337] (e1) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from polymers cross-linked urethane; and

[0338] (f) at least one fatty alcohol selected from among the branched fatty alcohols,

[0339] in which

[0340] the first composition is anhydrous,

[0341] the quantity of (a1) scrubbing agent in the first composition is from 0.05% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0342] the quantity of (d1) oil in the first composition is 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0343] the quantity of (e1) lipophilic gelling agent in the first composition is 4% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and

[0344] the quantity of (f) fatty alcohol in the first composition is from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0345] and 1. Application to the skin of a second composition, comprising:

[0346] (b) at least one active skincare ingredient; and

[0347] (c) water

[0348] in which

[0349] the quantity of (b) skin care active ingredient in the second composition is 0.05% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and

[0350] The amount of (c) water in the second composition is 50% by weight or more.

[0351] According to a further preferred embodiment in another aspect of the present invention, the process according to the present invention comprises the steps of: 1. application to the skin of at least one first composition, comprising:

[0352] (a) at least one exfoliating agent selected from water-soluble particles such as sugars, polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts and mixtures,

[0353] (d") at least one oil selected from the group consisting of vegetable oils such that jojoba oil, carbonate oils such as dicaprylyl carbonate, artificial triglyceride oils such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, hydrocarbon oils such as squalane, and any mixture thereof;

[0354] (e”) a crosslinked polymer of HDI / trimethylol hexyllactone; and

[0355] (f") at least one fatty alcohol selected from the group consisting of hexyldodecanol, octyldodecanol, and one of their mixtures,

[0356] in which

[0357] the first composition is anhydrous,

[0358] the quantity of (a) scrubbing agent in the first composition is 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0359] the quantity of (d) oil in the first composition is 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0360] the quantity of the (e) lipophilic gelling agent in the first composition is 3% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and

[0361] the quantity of (f") fatty alcohol in the first composition is 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition,

[0362] and 1. Application to the skin of a second composition, comprising:

[0363] (b) at least one active skincare ingredient; and

[0364] (c) water

[0365] in which

[0366] the quantity of (b) active skin care ingredient in the second composition is 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and

[0367] the quantity of (c) water in the second composition is 60% by weight or more.

[0368] [Kit]

[0369] Another aspect of the present invention is a skin treatment kit, comprising: 1. A first compartment comprising a first composition, including: a. at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol,

[0370] and 1. A second compartment comprising a second composition, including: a. at least one active skincare ingredient; and b. water

[0371] in which

[0372] the first composition is anhydrous, and

[0373] the quantity of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

[0374] The above explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (c), as well as optional ingredients, for the process according to the present invention can be applied to those for the above kit according to the present invention. The explanations concerning the preparation and forms of the first and second compositions can also be applied to those of the first and second compositions described in the above kit according to the present invention.

[0375] The (a) scrubbing agent in the first composition of the kit according to the present invention can be chosen from mechanical scrubbing agents, preferably chosen from water-soluble particles, and more preferably water-soluble polysaccharide particles such as sucrose particles.

[0376] On the other hand, the (a) scrubbing agent in the first composition in the kit according to the present invention can be chosen from chemical scrubbing agents, preferably chosen from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts and mixtures, and more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.

[0377] A person skilled in the art can prepare the kit according to the present invention based on conventional packaging technology. The kit according to the present invention includes at least the first and second compartments, each of which includes, respectively, the first and second compositions separately. The first and second compartments may be equipped with a dispensing or unloading means such as a pump. The first and second compartments may be contained separately in two separate containers. Alternatively, the first and second compartments may be contained in a single container.

[0378] The kit according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, preferably a cosmetic process, and more preferably a cosmetic skin care process.

[0379] The kit according to the present invention can be used to carry out the process according to the present invention.

[0380] For example, it is possible to use the kit in, for example, i. dispensing or discharging the first composition from the first compartment, ii. applying the first composition to the skin, iii. dispensing or discharging the second composition from the second compartment, and iv. applying the second composition to the skin.

[0381] Steps (i) to (iv) above may be carried out separately and sequentially. In other words, steps (i) to (iv) above need not be carried out simultaneously.

[0382] Where appropriate, the following step(s) may be carried out between steps (ii) and (iv) above: a. massage or rubbing of the skin on which the first composition was applied;

[0383] and / or a. elimination of the first layer of skin,

[0384] Where appropriate, the following step(s) may be carried out after step (iv) above: a. preservation of the second composition on the skin for a certain period of time;

[0385] and / or a. elimination of the second skin component. EXAMPLES

[0386] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of example. However, these examples shall not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. Example A and Comparative Example A

[0387] Each of the compositions according to Example A and Comparative Example A was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 1. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients in Table 1 are all based on a "% by weight" of active substances.

[0388] [Tables] Ex. A Ex. Comp. A Beeswax 0.2 0.2 Gluconolactone 5.0 - Squalane 9.1 9.1 Crosslinked HDFtrimethylol hexyllactone polymer 0.7 0.7 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 2.1 2.1 Tocopherol 0.2 0.2 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 27.1 27.1 Octyldodecanol 10.0 10.0 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride qsp 100 qsp 100 Examples BC and Comparative Example B

[0389] Each of the compositions according to Examples BC and Comparative Example B was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed in Table 2. The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients in Table 2 are all based on a "% by weight" of active substances.

[0390] [Tables2] Ex. B Ex. C Ex. Comp. B Glycerin 5.0 30.0 60.0 Sodium hyaluronate 1.5 1.5 1.5 Chlorphenesin 0.3 0.3 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 Water 92.5 67.5 37.5 [Reviews]

[0391] (Penetration test)

[0392] The penetration test experiments were carried out in a Franz diffusion cell (PermeGear) with a Strat-M membrane (Merck, surface area: 1.77 cm²). This equipment consisted of a donor section and a receiving section, with the Strat-M membrane interposed between the donor and receiving sections. The receiving section, with a predetermined volume, was filled with a receiving solution (0.25 wt% of Tween 80 / deionized water) maintained at a temperature of 32 °C, which was continuously stirred with a magnetic stir bar.

[0393] Each of the compositions according to Example A and Comparative Example A was applied to the Strat-M membrane in an amount of 5 mg / cm2. The Strat-M membrane was gently rubbed for 1 minute.

[0394] A composition including the ingredients shown in Table 3 below was also applied to the rubbed Strat-M membrane in an amount of 5 mg / cm². The numerical values ​​of the quantities of ingredients in Table 3 are all based on a "% by weight" of active substances.

[0395] [Tables3] % by weight Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 3.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Water q.s. 100

[0396] After 16 hours, 200 µL of the receiving solution were withdrawn from the receiving area, while the same amount of fresh receiving solution was added to the receiving area to maintain the same penetration conditions. The withdrawn receiving solution was analyzed by HPLC to determine the amount of the active skincare ingredient (hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol) in the receiving solution.

[0397] The results are presented on the line "Quantity of active ingredient penetration" in Table 4.

[0398] [Tables4] Ex. A Ex. Comp. A Active ingredient penetration amount (pg) 5.8+1.9 3.7+1.9

[0399] (Skin finish)

[0400] Six professional panelists assessed the "skin finish" based on the level of oiliness or greasyness.

[0401] As a first step, each panelist applied the compositions according to Example A in an amount of 1 g to the skin. One minute later, they assessed the 'skin finish' by rating it from 1 (very bad) to 5 (very good).

[0402] Next, as a second step, each panelist applied each of the compositions according to Example BC and Comparative Example B in an amount of 1 g to the skin. One minute later, they assessed the 'skin finish' by assigning it a score of 1 (very bad), 2 (bad), 3 (neutral), 4 (good) or 5 (very good).

[0403] The results are shown in the "First step" and "Second step" rows in Table 5 below.

[0404] [Tables5] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. Comp. 1 First step Ex. A 1 1 1 Second step Ex. B 4 - - Ex. C - 4 - Ex. Comp. B - - 2

[0405] Ex. 1 in Table 5 means a combination of the first step of applying the composition according to Example A and the second step of applying the composition according to Example B.

[0406] Ex. 2 in Table 5 means a combination of the first step of applying the composition according to Example A and the second step of applying the composition according to Example C.

[0407] Ex. Comp. 1 in Table 5 means a combination of the first step of applying the composition according to Example A and the second step of applying the composition according to Comparative Example B.

[0408] (Summary)

[0409] The composition according to Example A in Table 1 corresponds to the first composition in the process according to the present invention.

[0410] The compositions according to Examples B and C of Table 2, as well as the composition of Table 3, correspond to the second composition in the process according to the present invention.

[0411] As shown in Table 4, using the composition according to Example A including gluconolactone as (a) scrubbing agent, the penetration of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol as (b) active skin care ingredient was enhanced or improved, compared to using the composition according to Comparative Example 4 not including any scrubbing agent.

[0412] Furthermore, as shown in Table 5, the process carried out according to Example 1 or Example 2 was able to provide a good skin finish with reduced oiliness or greasyness because the amount of water in the second composition was 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition. On the other hand, the process carried out according to Comparative Example 1 was unable to provide a good skin finish because the amount of water in the second composition was less than 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

Claims

Demands

1. A skin treatment process comprising the steps of: (1) applying to the skin at least one first composition, comprising: (a) at least one exfoliating agent, and (2) applying to the skin a second composition, comprising: (b) at least one active skin-care ingredient; and (c) water in which the first composition is anhydrous, and the amount of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the (a) scrubbing agent is selected from chemical scrubbing agents, preferably selected from polyhydroxy acids, monohydroxy acids, their salts and mixtures, and more preferably polyhydroxy acids in the form of a lactone such as gluconolactone.

3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the first composition further comprises (d) at least one oil other than a fatty alcohol.

4. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the first composition further comprises (e) at least one organic lipophilic gelling agent selected from urethane polymers.

5. A process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the first composition further comprises (f) at least one fatty alcohol.

6. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) active skincare ingredient is selected from skin brightening agents, skin anti-aging agents, skin moisturizing agents, and mixtures thereof.

7. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein (b) the active skincare ingredient is selected from the group consisting of C-glycoside derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its salts such as sodium hyaluronate, and mixtures thereof.

8. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein (b) the skin care active ingredient is selected from the group consisting of C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one; C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; l-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane; l-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane; and their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their optical isomers, preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.

9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising the steps of: (1) applying to the skin a first composition comprising: (a) at least one exfoliating agent, wherein the first composition is anhydrous, the amount of (a) exfoliating agent in the first composition is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and (2) applying to the skin a second composition, comprising: (b) at least one active skin care ingredient; and (c) water, wherein the amount of (b) active skin care ingredient in the second composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition, and the amount of (c) water in the second composition is 40% by weight or more.

10. Skin treatment kit, including: (1) a first compartment comprising a first composition, comprising: (a) at least one scrubbing agent, And (2) a second compartment comprising a second composition, comprising: (b) at least one active skincare ingredient; and (c) water in which the first composition is anhydrous, and the quantity of (c) water in the second composition is 40% in weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and more preferably 60% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.