Kit for cosmetic skin treatment and cosmetic skin treatment method using such a kit

Abstract

The invention relates to a kit comprising two separate aqueous compositions A and B, intended to be mixed to form a cosmetic composition for cosmetic skin treatment. The composition A comprises water, a peptide and a preservative, and the composition B comprises water, a preservative, a humectant and a cosmetically active agent. A cosmetic skin treatment method using such a kit comprises mixing the composition A and the composition B, so as to form a cosmetic composition, and applying this cosmetic composition topically to the skin.

Description

[0001] KIT FOR COSMETIC SKIN TREATMENT AND PROCESS FOR COSMETIC SKIN TREATMENT USING SUCH A KIT

[0002] The present invention falls within the field of cosmetic skin treatment, in particular aimed at combating the signs of skin aging.

[0003] More specifically, the present invention relates to a kit comprising two separate aqueous compositions intended to be mixed to form a cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment of the skin by topical application. The invention also relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, applicable topically, using such a kit, as well as a cosmetic composition obtainable by such a method. Other objects of the invention are a method for cosmetic skin treatment carried out using such a kit, and the use of such a kit for cosmetic skin treatment.

[0004] With an aging global population and increased interest in skincare and wellness, more and more consumers are seeking products that promise to reduce signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles, loss of skin elasticity, and age spots.

[0005] Cosmetic surgery can also help reduce the visible signs of aging, allowing patients to look younger and more vibrant. Cosmetic surgery procedures are often minimally invasive or invasive and aim to rejuvenate the skin's appearance. Some of the most common include:

[0006] - Botulinum toxin injections to reduce the appearance of expression lines, particularly around the eyes and on the forehead;

[0007] - injections of dermal fillers (also known by the English term "fillers"), such as hyaluronic acid, to fill wrinkles and restore volume to certain areas of the face such as the cheeks or lips;

[0008] - Chemical peeling, useful for exfoliating the skin, improving texture and tone by removing the superficial layers of the skin; - Microdermabrasion, which polishes the skin and reduces the appearance of fine lines, scars and age spots;

[0009] - laser treatments to stimulate collagen production, tighten the skin and improve its overall appearance;

[0010] - mesotherapy, which consists of an injection of vitamins, minerals and amino acids to revitalize the skin;

[0011] - and finally, the lifting threads which are used to lift and firm the skin without surgery.

[0012] While cosmetic surgery procedures can offer numerous benefits, they also carry drawbacks and potential risks, such as side effects and the risk of developing a dependence on cosmetic surgery, leading to multiple procedures. It is therefore advisable to complement their implementation with non-invasive topical treatments that enhance and / or prolong their effects, thereby limiting the number and / or frequency of these procedures over time.

[0013] Therefore, there is currently a need for the development of cosmetic products containing effective active ingredients to treat the signs of skin aging, which could be offered as pre- or complementary treatments to cosmetic surgery procedures. These cosmetic products would aim to improve, prolong, and intensify the benefits of cosmetic surgery. Ideally, these products should be designed for use as a short-term treatment of a few days, with appropriately sized quantities.

[0014] It is within this general context that the present invention is situated. More specifically, aiming to develop such cosmetic products, the present inventors focused on anti-aging active ingredients such as peptides.

[0015] It is common to find small peptides composed of just a few amino acids in anti-aging cosmetic products. Such peptides have several functions. In particular, they can stimulate collagen production. Collagen is an essential protein for the skin, giving it its structure and elasticity. With age, collagen production decreases, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin. The increased synthesis of collagen, as well as elastin, induced by the topical application of peptides to the skin thus improves skin elasticity and makes it firmer.

[0016] Extract from the GNPD Mintel database no. 6234437 describes a peptide-based anti-wrinkle product packaged as a kit containing two separate preparations. Document CN 112 618 407 also describes a cosmetic composition presented as a kit for forming a polypeptide-based microemulsion.

[0017] The main peptides currently used in cosmetics are:

[0018] - Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: This is one of the best-known peptides, renowned for its ability to stimulate the production of collagen and elastin;

[0019] - Acetyl hexapeptide-8: This hexapeptide helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters that cause muscle contractions;

[0020] - Palmitoyl oligopeptide: this peptide also helps to stimulate collagen production and can improve skin elasticity;

[0021] - Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7: it is often used in combination with palmitoyl oligopeptide, to further improve the synthesis of collagen and elastin;

[0022] - Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate: this peptide mimics the effect of snake venom, relaxing facial muscles to reduce the appearance of expression lines;

[0023] - Acetyl octapeptide-3: This peptide reduces the depth of wrinkles caused by facial muscle contractions, particularly around the eyes and forehead;

[0024] - Acetyl heptapeptide-4: like other peptides, it is designed to mimic certain functions of proteins naturally present in the skin and help fight the signs of aging.

[0025] Several cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic compositions based on such peptides, suitable for anti-aging care, already exist. To ensure their effectiveness, these compositions contain numerous active ingredients, including several peptides. Due to this large number of ingredients, they are very expensive to manufacture. The present invention aims to overcome these drawbacks and to offer a cosmetic composition that effectively combats the signs of skin aging, particularly in support of cosmetic surgery procedures, without requiring a very large number of cosmetic active ingredients, and therefore without incurring a high production cost.

[0026] Additional objectives of the invention are that this cosmetic composition be safe for consumers, i.e. with the fewest controversial substances possible, and that it be presented in the purest possible form, with few ingredients, without penalizing its effectiveness.

[0027] The invention also aims to ensure that this cosmetic composition has a pleasant texture and is rapidly absorbed, without a sticky or greasy effect.

[0028] The present invention originated from the discovery by the inventors that peptides commonly used in cosmetic compositions are unstable in the presence of the other main ingredients of these compositions, a fact not known in the prior art. Specifically, the inventors discovered that the effectiveness of such peptides in the cosmetic compositions containing them is only present in the first few weeks after the composition is manufactured, and then diminishes very rapidly. Consequently, due to the typical storage times between the manufacture and use of these compositions, the effectiveness of the peptides they contain becomes very low by the time of use.The present inventors have advantageously taken advantage of these findings by developing a cosmetic product in the form of a kit based on two separate aqueous compositions, one of which contains one or more peptides and excludes certain types of ingredients (and preferably contains a limited number of types of ingredients), and the other contains the rest of the ingredients to constitute a cosmetic composition fully meeting the requirements in the field, these two aqueous compositions being intended to be mixed to form this complete cosmetic composition fully operational at the time of first use.

[0029] Thus, by avoiding the degradation of the peptide(s) during the storage of the composition prior to its use, the inventors propose a solution to form a cosmetic composition which has a high efficacy of action at the very moment it is to be used, including when it is purified, that is to say when it contains few ingredients, in particular much fewer ingredients, especially cosmetically active ones, than the cosmetic compositions currently on the market in the field of products for topical application recommended to accompany cosmetic surgery procedures.

[0030] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a kit comprising two separate aqueous compositions A and B, in that they are packaged separately from each other, and intended to be mixed to form a cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment of the skin by topical application. The aqueous compositions A and B are such that:

[0031] - Composition A comprises water, one or more peptides and a preservative, with water representing at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A, and is free from humectant and additional cosmetically active agent;

[0032] - and composition B includes at least water, a preservative, a humectant and a cosmetically active agent, with water representing at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0033] By additional cosmetic active agent, we mean any cosmetic active agent other than peptides, and other than water.

[0034] In this description, a kit is defined, in its classic sense, as a set of several compositions stored separately, which are provided simultaneously to the user for combined use, after they have been mixed. The user is the person who performs this mixing. The user is defined here as the person applying the cosmetic composition formed by mixing composition A and composition B topically to the skin.

[0035] By "separate" or "separately packaged," we mean that composition A and composition B are distinct from one another and packaged in such a way as to prevent them from coming into contact, in separate, hermetically sealed containers. Therefore, contact between composition A and composition B cannot occur without user intervention. This contact is intended to be made immediately before first use, that is, the first application of the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition formed by mixing compositions A and B to the skin.Preferably, the quantities of the two aqueous compositions A and B of the kit according to the invention are further calculated to obtain, after mixing all of these aqueous compositions contained in the kit, a quantity of the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition suitable for a duration and dosage of use corresponding to the intended indication, for example for a course of 7 to 15 days with two applications per day.

[0036] The cosmetic composition obtained using the kit according to the invention, by mixing composition A and composition B, proves particularly effective in combating the signs of skin aging, such as wrinkles and sagging skin, even when it contains few ingredients, particularly a small number of active ingredients. This is due to the particularly high efficacy of the peptide(s) it contains. These peptides remained stable within composition A during the kit's storage; they did not degrade, and are therefore able to exert their full effect upon application of the cosmetic composition to the skin shortly after its formation by mixing compositions A and B.

[0037] This efficacy of the cosmetic composition formed according to the invention is accompanied by advantageous sensory properties, particularly well suited to the intended indication, in particular a light texture, an absence of stickiness and / or greasy effect, and rapid absorption by the skin, even when the cosmetic composition contains no other type of ingredients than those listed above with reference to compositions A and B. Composition A comprises at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 92% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight, preferably at least 98% by weight, and even more preferably at least 99% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition A. Composition A may, for example, comprise between 95 and 99.9% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition A.

[0038] Composition A may comprise one or more peptides. Preferably, at least one, preferably each, of these peptides comprises between 2 and 10 amino acids.

[0039] Composition A preferably comprises at least one acetylated peptide and / or at least one palmitoylated peptide, with acetylated peptides being particularly preferred in the context of the invention.

[0040] At least one, preferably each, of the peptides contained in composition A is preferentially chosen from palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, hexanoyl dipeptide-3 norleucine acetate, caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, tripeptide-1, myristoyl pentapeptide-17, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, acetyl octapeptide-3 and acetyl heptapeptide-4.

[0041] In preferred embodiments of the invention, composition A comprises at least, as a peptide, acetyl hexapeptide-8, alone or in combination with one or more other peptides.

[0042] In preferred embodiments of the invention, composition A comprises fewer than three peptides. Preferably, it comprises only one peptide. Preferably, composition A then contains only acetyl hexapeptide-8 as a peptide. An example of such a peptide is found in the commercial product ARGIRELINE® Amplified from LIPOTEC.

[0043] The total peptide content in composition A is preferably between 0.01 and 0.5% by weight, preferably between 0.02 and 0.2% by weight, or between 0.03 and 0.1% by weight, preferably between 0.03 and 0.08% by weight, relative to the weight of composition A.

[0044] Preferably, the total peptide content in composition A is about 0.05% by weight relative to the weight of composition A. Preferably, the total peptide content in composition A, expressed relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition formed by mixing all of composition A and composition B contained in the kit, is between 0.001 and 0.05% by weight, preferably between 0.002 and 0.02% by weight, or between 0.003 and 0.01% by weight, preferably between 0.003 and 0.008% by weight, for example about 0.005% by weight.

[0045] Composition A according to the invention may contain one or more preservatives. Any conventional preservative used in cosmetic compositions, and more particularly any water-soluble preservative, may be used in composition A.

[0046] The preservative(s) used in composition A according to the invention may, in particular, be selected from sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, cetrimonium bromide, ethyl lauroyl arginate hydrochloride, chlorbutol, benzalkonium chloride, diazolidinyl urea, chlorhexidine digluconate, ethyl hydroxybenzoate, imidazolidinyl urea, methylisothiazolinone, methylparaben, octoxyglycerin, orthophenylphenol, methylparaben, sodium methylparaben, sodium propylparaben, piroctone olamine, sorbate potassium, sodium propionate, zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, sodium dehydroacetate, potassium sorbate.

[0047] A particularly suitable preservative in the context of the invention is sodium benzoate.

[0048] The total preservative content in composition A, expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the cosmetic composition formed by mixing all of composition A and composition B contained in the kit, is between 0.01 and 0.1% by weight, in particular between 0.02 and 0.08% by weight, or between 0.03 and 0.08% by weight, for example between 0.04 and 0.06% by weight. The total preservative content in composition A is preferably between 0.05 and 2% by weight, more preferably between 0.1 and 1% by weight, and in particular between 0.2 and 0.8% by weight, or between 0.3 and 0.8% by weight, for example between 0.4 and 0.6% by weight, relative to the weight of composition A.

[0049] In particular embodiments of the invention, composition A comprises one or more colorants. Preferably, it comprises only one colorant.

[0050] This or these colorants may be synthetic colorants, such as azo dyes which are characterized by the presence of one or more azo groups in the molecule, among which we can mention: D&C Red No. 33 (Cl 17200), D&C Yellow No. 5 (Cl 19140), D&C Red No. 22 (Cl 45380), D&C Orange No. 4 (Cl 15510), D&C Yellow No. 10 (Cl 47005), etc.

[0051] Preferably, at least one colorant present in composition A is D&C Red No. 33 (Cl 17200). In particular embodiments in which composition A comprises only one colorant, this is preferably Cl 17200.

[0052] The total content of colorant(s) in composition A, expressed in relation to the total weight of the cosmetic composition formed by mixing the entire composition A and composition B contained in the kit, is preferably less than 0.001% by weight, preferably less than 0.0005% by weight, or even less than 0.0001% by weight, for example less than 0.00008% by weight.

[0053] The total content of colour(s) in composition A is preferably less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.005% by weight, or even less than 0.001% by weight, preferably less than 0.0008% by weight, relative to the weight of composition A.

[0054] Composition A is free of humectants. It is also free of cosmetically / dermo-cosmetically active agents, in particular as defined below, and thus specifically free of ascorbic acid, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid. In this description, "free of" an ingredient, unless otherwise specified, means that the composition contains less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, and preferably less than 0.001% by weight, of that ingredient, relative to the total weight of the composition, or, even more preferably, that it does not contain that ingredient at all.

[0055] Preferably, composition A therefore contains no humectant at all, nor any cosmetically / dermo-cosmetically active agent.

[0056] In particular embodiments of the invention, composition A does not include glycerin. More generally, it may be devoid of polyol. In this description, "polyol" (also called polyalcohol) is conventionally understood to mean a compound comprising a hydrocarbon chain with at least two carbon atoms and including at least two hydroxyl groups.

[0057] In other particular embodiments of the invention, composition A no longer generally contains alcohol.

[0058] In such particular embodiments of the invention, the preservatives contained in composition A do not then belong to the family of polyols, or, more generally, alcohols.

[0059] Composition A may also be free of emollient.

[0060] According to other particular embodiments of the invention, composition A does not include any of the ingredients of composition B except for water and the preservative(s). Optionally, and more generally, composition A does not contain any of the types of ingredients contained in composition B, except for water and preservatives.

[0061] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, composition A consists of one or more peptides, one or more preservatives, optionally one or more colorants, and water, the water representing at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight, preferably at least 98% by weight, even more preferably at least 99% by weight, for example between 95 and 99.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A. In this description, "consisting of" means that the composition does not include any ingredients other than those specifically listed after this expression.

[0062] Thus, composition A includes no other ingredients than those listed above, namely water, one or more peptides, one or more preservatives, and, optionally, one or more colorants.

[0063] Composition A can advantageously be stored for several months without any degradation of the peptide(s), for example, acetyl hexapeptide-8. This stability of the peptide(s) in composition A is observed even under accelerated aging conditions, for example for 3 months at 40°C.

[0064] Composition B comprises at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 65% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, and even more preferably at least 75% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of composition B. Composition B comprises, for example, from 65 to 95% water relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0065] The total water content in the cosmetic composition formed by mixing all of composition A and composition B contained in the kit is at least 55% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 65% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight, and even more preferably at least 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition formed by mixing all of composition A and composition B contained in the kit. This water content is, for example, between 65% and 95% by weight, in particular between 70% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition formed by mixing all of composition A and composition B contained in the kit.

[0066] Composition B may include one or more humectants.

[0067] According to the present invention, the term "humectant," in its conventional sense, refers to any conventional compound used in cosmetic compositions that helps maintain the water content in a composition, its packaging, and on the skin. The humectant(s) used in composition B according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may have a linear, branched, or cyclic molecular structure.

[0068] The humectant(s) used in composition B according to the invention can in particular be chosen from glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and its derivatives. In particular, they can be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, notably having 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, but also erythritol, threitol, arabitol, xylitol, ribitol, mannitol, sorbitol, galactitol, fucitol, iditol, inositol, volemitol, isomalt, maltitol, lactitol, maltotriitol, maltotetrol, polyglycitol, alone or in any of their mixtures.

[0069] In preferred embodiments of the invention, at least one humectant contained in composition B is glycerin.

[0070] In preferred embodiments of the invention, composition B comprises at least 2 humectants, and preferably at least 3 humectants, one of these humectants preferably being glycerin.

[0071] Composition B according to the invention preferably comprises, in total, from 5 to 25% by weight, in particular from 8 to 20% by weight, for example from 8 to 15% by weight, or even from 10 to 12% by weight, of humectant(s), relative to the total weight of composition B.

[0072] Composition B according to the invention may contain one or more preservatives. Again, any conventional preservative used in cosmetic compositions can be implemented in composition B; this preservative or these preservatives may be identical to those contained in composition A, and / or may be different.

[0073] The preservative(s) used in composition B according to the invention may, in particular, be selected from sodium benzoate, benzyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, cetrimonium bromide, ethyl lauroyl arginate hydrochloride, chlorbutol, benzalkonium chloride, diazolidinyl urea, chlorhexidine digluconate, ethyl hydroxybenzoate, imidazolidinyl urea, methylisothiazolinone, methylparaben, octoxyglycerin, orthophenylphenol, methylparaben, sodium methylparaben, sodium propylparaben, piroctone olamine, sorbate potassium, sodium propionate, zinc pyrithione, salicylic acid, sodium dehydroacetate, potassium sorbate.

[0074] A preservative particularly suitable within the framework of the invention, for implementation in composition B, is sodium benzoate.

[0075] The total content of preservative(s) in composition B is preferably between 0.05 and 1.2% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 1% by weight, or between 0.15 and 0.5% by weight, for example between 0.2 and 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight of composition B.

[0076] Composition B may further contain one or more cosmetically / dermo-cosmetically active agents, particularly for topical use, preferably having properties for treating signs of skin aging. Any cosmetically / dermo-cosmetically active agent conventionally used in topical anti-aging products may be used within the scope of the invention, such as: niacinamide, adenosine, hyaluronic acid in its crude form (INCI name: hyaluronic acid), preferably with a molecular weight greater than 1800 kDa, hyaluronic acid in its hydrolyzed form (INCI name: hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid), preferably with a molecular weight between 1000 and 1800 kDa, hyaluronic acid in its alkaline form (INCI name: sodium hyaluronate), preferably with a molecular weight between 50 and 1000 kDa, etc.

[0077] Other cosmetically / dermo-cosmetically active agents commonly used in topical anti-aging products, which may be included in composition B, are antioxidants, such as ascorbic acid. Composition B according to the invention may otherwise be devoid of ascorbic acid, or more generally, devoid of any antioxidant agent. Preferably, composition B comprises at least one hyaluronic acid, in crude, hydrolyzed, or alkaline form. It may, for example, comprise a plurality of such hyaluronic acids.

[0078] Composition B also prefers to include niacinamide.

[0079] As cosmetically / dermo-cosmetically active agents, composition B may, for example, include at least, or only, niacinamide and one or more hyaluronic acids.

[0080] In particular embodiments of the invention, the total content of cosmetically / dermo-cosmetically active agent(s) in composition B is between 3 and 20% by weight, for example between 3 and 15% by weight, relative to the weight of composition B.

[0081] Composition B may also contain one or more colorants. This is preferably the case when composition A is free of colorants, and / or when the volume of composition B in the kit is less than that of composition A. This colorant, or these colorants, then preferably meet the characteristics described above with reference to the colorant(s) that may be contained in composition A.

[0082] Composition B is preferably peptide-free. This means that it contains less than 0.001% by weight of peptide or, preferably, that it contains no peptide at all.

[0083] Composition B according to the invention may further contain any conventional additive / excipient for a cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition, and, like all other ingredients in compositions according to the invention, be cosmetically and / or dermo-cosmetically acceptable. By this, "conventionally acceptable" means that these ingredients are suitable for use by contact with human and animal skin cells, and that they do not generate unacceptable discomfort likely to deter a user from using the composition.

[0084] Composition A and / or composition B and / or the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture, are preferably free from the following ingredients.

[0085] In preferred embodiments of the invention, composition A and composition B, as well as the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture, are devoid of emulsifier. They are notably devoid of emulsifier chosen from the group consisting of hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lecithins, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, 20 / 60 / 80 polysorbates, emulsifying waxes including glucoside waxes, alkyl glucosides, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, sorbitan olivate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, sorbitan laurate, polyethylene glycol stearates and sucrose esters including sucrose stearate, polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, potassium cetyl phosphate, sorbitan monostearate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, etc.

[0086] More generally, and preferably, none of composition A, composition B, or the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture are emulsions. Thus, composition A, composition B, and the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture are all solutions, that is, homogeneous mixtures, as opposed to emulsions, which are heterogeneous mixtures.

[0087] Composition A and composition B, as well as the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture, are preferably free from fatty alcohol or derivatives of fatty alcohol, in particular decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and their derivatives.

[0088] Composition A and composition B, as well as the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture, are preferably free from oil, in particular oil derived from a plant or vegetable, for example oil from seeds or fruits, but also from glyceride esters.

[0089] Composition A and composition B, as well as the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture, are preferably free from gelling and / or thickening agents. In particular, they are free from agents selected from the group consisting of alginates, carrageenans, cellulose and its derivatives, starch, xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, succinoglucan gum, gellan gum, diutan gum, acacia gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, locust bean gum, Tamarindus indica seed gum, acrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] In particular embodiments of the invention, composition A and composition B, as well as the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture, are further devoid of chelating agent, such as ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA).

[0091] In particularly preferred embodiments of the invention, composition A and composition B, as well as the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture, are free of microplastics, as defined below.

[0092] They are also preferably free of microplastic acrylates.

[0093] The term "microplastic" as used in the present invention refers to microparticles of synthetic polymers and corresponds to the definition given in the regulation published on September 27, 2023, "Commission Regulation (EU) 2023 / 2055 of September 25, 2023, amending Annex XVII to Regulation (EC) No 1907 / 2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH), as regards synthetic polymer microparticles." According to this document, microplastics, or synthetic polymer microparticles, are defined as polymers that are solid and that either are contained within particles and constitute at least 1% by weight of those particles, or form a continuous surface coating on particles, where at least 1% by weight of those particles meet one of the following conditions:

[0094] (a) all particle dimensions are less than or equal to 5 mm;

[0095] (b) the length of the particles is less than or equal to 15 mm and their length-to-diameter ratio is greater than 3.

[0096] The following polymers are excluded from this designation:

[0097] (a) polymers resulting from a polymerization process that has occurred in nature, which are not chemically modified substances;

[0098] (b) polymers that are degradable as proven in accordance with Annex 15 of the document;

[0099] (c) polymers which have a solubility greater than 2 g / L as proven in accordance with Annex 16 of the document (water solubility test at pH 7 under stirring for 24 h at 20°C, with a polymer loading of 10 g / 1000 mL, according to the protocol of Test No. 120 or Test No. 105 of the OECD Guidelines for the Testing of Chemicals);

[0100] (d) polymers that do not contain carbon atoms in their chemical structure. Microparticles of synthetic polymers covered by the derogation provided for in point 4a of the said draft amendment to Annex XVII are also excluded from this definition.

[0101] More generally, microplastics can be defined as particles with all dimensions less than 5 mm, formed or coated with solid synthetic organic polymer(s) that are insoluble in water and non-biodegradable.

[0102] Preferably, composition A and composition B, as well as the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture, are free from exfoliants, in particular chemical exfoliants, especially of the salicylic acid or phytic acid type.

[0103] Both composition A and composition B, as well as the cosmetic composition formed by their mixture, are also preferably free of chlorphenesin, as this preservative can cause adverse effects in some people.

[0104] In particular embodiments of the invention, the volume ratio composition A / composition B in the kit is between 10 / 90 and 50 / 50, preferably between 10 / 90 and 40 / 60, preferably again between 10 / 90 and 30 / 70, more preferably between 10 / 90 and 25 / 75, and for example between 10 / 90 and 20 / 80.

[0105] The mass ratio composition A / composition B in the kit is preferably between 0.05 and 1, preferably between 0.05 and 0.15, preferably also between 0.10 and 0.15, in particular between 0.10 and 0.3, and for example between 0.11 and 0.12.

[0106] The respective quantities of composition A and composition B in the kit, as well as the ingredient contents of each, are preferably chosen to allow the formation, by mixing the entirety of composition A contained in the kit and the entirety of composition B contained in the kit, of a cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition comprising, in relation to the total weight of this composition:

[0107] - 65 to 95% by weight, preferably 68 to 92% by weight, of water;

[0108] - 0.002 to 0.01%, preferably 0.004 to 0.006% by weight, of peptide(s), in particular of which at least, or only, acetyl hexapeptide-8;

[0109] - 0.05 to 2%, preferably 0.2 to 1%, by weight of preservative(s);

[0110] - 5 to 20% by weight of humectant(s), preferably including at least glycerin;

[0111] - and / or 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 10% by weight, of cosmetically / dermo-cosmetically active agent(s), preferably including at least niacinamide and / or one or more hyaluronic acids.

[0112] This cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition may also optionally include 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.00004 to 0.06% by weight, of colorant(s), for example, Cl 17200 red colorant.

[0113] The cosmetic composition formed by mixing composition A and composition B of the kit according to the invention may have any conventional dosage form suitable for topical application to the skin. Preferably, it is in the form of a serum, a solution, or a lotion. Thus, compositions A and B are preferably formulated so that, when mixed, they form a serum, a solution, or a lotion.

[0114] The kit according to the invention can be packaged in any conventional form in itself, this form preferably being designed to allow easy mixing of composition A and composition B by the user.

[0115] Within the kit according to the invention, composition A and composition B can be contained in two separate compartments of the same container, for example, a bottle or jar. Thus, composition A can be placed in a first compartment of a container, and composition B can be placed in a second compartment of this container, the second compartment being hermetically sealed from the first compartment. Preferably, one of these two compartments, in particular the one containing composition B, has sufficient capacity to simultaneously contain all of composition A and all of composition B contained in the kit.The container may further include an activation device, such as a pull or push tab, which, when activated by the user, breaks the seal between the first compartment and the second compartment and puts these two compartments into communication, so as to allow composition A and composition B to be combined within the container.

[0116] Alternatively, composition A and composition B may be contained in two separate containers, for example, a bottle or jar on the one hand, and a tube on the other. Preferably, one of these two containers, in particular the one containing composition B, such as a bottle or jar, has sufficient capacity to simultaneously hold all of composition A and all of composition B contained in the kit.

[0117] The kit according to the invention may optionally contain an additional container, initially empty, such as a bottle or jar, of sufficient capacity to simultaneously receive the entirety of composition A and the entirety of composition B contained in the kit.

[0118] The kit according to the invention may also include a distribution element for the cosmetic composition formed by mixing composition A and composition B, such as a dispensing nozzle, this distribution element being able, according to the embodiments of the kit, to equip either the single two-compartment container, or the additional initially empty container, or one of the containers containing one of composition A or composition B, preferably the container with the largest capacity.

[0119] The kit according to the invention may also include instructions for use of the kit, including all the explanations necessary for the user to carry out the mixing of composition A and composition B, and the distribution of the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition then formed.

[0120] A further object of the invention is a method for preparing a cosmetic composition for topical skin treatment using a kit according to the invention. This method comprises mixing composition A and composition B. This mixing is preferably carried out until a homogeneous cosmetic composition is obtained. When either composition A or composition B, preferably the one with the smaller volume, comprises one or more colorants, the mixing is advantageously carried out until a cosmetic composition of homogeneous color is obtained, this color homogeneity constituting a visual indicator of the homogeneity of the composition formed.

[0121] The mixing of composition A and composition B can be carried out manually, by shaking a container in which these two compositions have been combined, or by means of an accessory such as a spatula, which the kit according to the invention can then advantageously include for this purpose.

[0122] By way of non-limiting example of the invention, within the kit, composition B may initially be placed in a jar and composition A in a tube. The user may pour composition A into the jar containing composition B and mix these two compositions by shaking the jar, or using a spatula, until a homogeneous final cosmetic composition is obtained.

[0123] The cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition obtained from this preparation process is ready for use. It contains essentially the same quantity of peptide(s) as that initially introduced into composition A, even several months earlier.

[0124] In another aspect, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic skin treatment method, particularly for treating signs of skin aging, using a kit according to the invention. This method comprises:

[0125] - the mixing of composition A and composition B, preferably of the entirety of composition A and the entirety of composition B contained in the kit, so as to form a cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition, this mixing being preferably carried out until a homogeneous composition is obtained;

[0126] - and at least one application, preferably several applications spaced out over time, of this cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition topically on the skin.

[0127] The mixing step may meet one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention. In particular, in embodiments of the kit according to the invention in which composition A or composition B contains at least one colorant, the mixing of composition A and composition B is carried out until a homogeneous colored cosmetic composition is obtained.

[0128] In this description, the term treatment refers to both preventive and restorative treatment.

[0129] The cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition formulated according to the invention proves particularly effective in comprehensively treating the signs of skin aging. The claims made for this composition specifically include reducing / mitigating the appearance of wrinkles, including deep wrinkles, and reducing the loss of skin firmness and elasticity.

[0130] Said at least one application, preferably each application, of the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition topically on the skin is preferably carried out within 30 days following the mixing of composition A and composition B.

[0131] The cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition can, for example, be applied topically to the area of ​​skin of the individual concerned, in an effective quantity, once or twice a day, for example in the morning and evening, and for example for a period of between 7 and 30 days, in particular between 8 and 15 days.

[0132] Preferably, the mixing of composition A and composition B is then carried out extemporaneously with respect to the first application, so as to ensure stability of the peptide(s) in the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition throughout this treatment period.

[0133] The cosmetic skin treatment method according to the invention can advantageously be used in conjunction with a cosmetic surgery procedure, such as those listed above. In such a context, the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition can be applied topically to the skin before and / or after the cosmetic surgery procedure. This advantageously results in a potentiation of the effect of the cosmetic surgery procedure performed.

[0134] The application of the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition topically to the skin is preferably carried out on an area of ​​healthy skin, in particular one not affected by an inflammatory disease. Preferably, this area of ​​skin is also re-epithelialized. Thus, in the particular embodiments of the invention in which the cosmetic skin treatment process according to the invention is implemented in addition to a cosmetic surgery procedure causing de-epithelialization of the skin, the application of the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition topically to the skin is preferably initiated from the 7th ème day after the cosmetic surgery procedure, after re-epithelialization of the skin.

[0135] In addition to the aforementioned wrinkle-reducing and skin elasticity- and firmness-improving effects, the beneficial effects of applying the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition formulated according to the invention topically to the skin are numerous. In particular, the skin appears more supple, smooth, radiant, and even-toned immediately after the first application. A lifting effect is observed after just 7 days of application. This effect can be compared to that of botulinum toxin injections, but with the added advantage of a non-invasive application.

[0136] Another object of the invention is the use of a kit according to the invention, as well as a cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition formed from this kit, for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin. This use may correspond to one or more of the characteristics described above with reference to the non-therapeutic cosmetic skin treatment process. The invention also relates to a cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin, applicable topically, and which can be obtained, in particular obtained, by a preparation process according to the invention. This composition consists of: water, one or more peptides, one or more humectants, one or more additional cosmetically active agents, particularly for topical use, one or more preservatives, and, optionally, one or more colorants.

[0137] This cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition may meet one or more of the characteristics described above. In particular, it may include:

[0138] - as a peptide, acetyl hexapeptide-8, alone or in combination with one or more other peptides;

[0139] - as a cosmetically active agent, niacinamide and / or one or more hyaluronic acid(s);

[0140] - as a humectant, glycerin, alone or in combination with one or more other humectants;

[0141] - as an optional colorant, the red colorant Cl 17200, alone or in combination with one or more other colorants.

[0142] For example, the cosmetic / dermo-cosmetic composition according to the invention may consist of, the content of each ingredient being expressed in relation to the total weight of this composition:

[0143] - 65 to 95% by weight, preferably 68 to 92% by weight, of water;

[0144] - 0.002 to 0.01%, preferably 0.004 to 0.006% by weight, of peptide(s), in particular acetyl hexapeptide-8;

[0145] - 0.05 to 2%, preferably 0.2 to 1% by weight of preservative(s);

[0146] - 5 to 20% by weight of humectant(s), preferably including at least glycerin;

[0147] - and / or 1 to 20% by weight, preferably 3 to 10% by weight, of cosmetically / dermo-cosmetically active agent(s), preferably including at least niacinamide and / or one or more hyaluronic acids;

[0148] - optionally, 0.00001 to 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.00004 to 0.06% by weight, of colorant(s), for example of Cl 17200 red colorant.

[0149] The features and advantages of the invention will become more apparent in the light of the following implementation examples, provided for illustrative purposes only and in no way limiting the invention.

[0150] 1 / Example 1 - Peptide stability in a complete cosmetic composition The stability test is carried out under classical conditions, i.e. by storing the composition in an environment with controlled temperature, relative humidity and light conditions.

[0151] The temperature tested is 50°C; this temperature accelerates the stability test. The relative humidity is 60%. The composition is stored protected from light. The tested composition is in serum form and conforms to the formula shown in Table 1.

[0152] Table 1 - Formula of the complete composition for the stability test

[0153] The stability of acetyl hexapeptide-8 in this composition is evaluated. A precise assay of the peptide is carried out at T0, i.e., immediately after the peptide is dissolved in the composition, and then after 1 month of storage at 50°C (T1 month).

[0154] The assay is performed by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with detection by mass spectrometry, according to the following operating conditions:

[0155] - Column: Acquity UPLC™ BEH C18 (2.1 mm x 100 mm; 1.7 pm);

[0156] - Oven temperature: 40°C;

[0157] - solvents: SA: formic acid at 0.05% in acetonitrile; SB: formic acid at 0.05% in water;

[0158] - gradient: TOmin SA 5%; T10min SA 30%;

[0159] - flow rate: 0.2 ml / min;

[0160] - injection volume: 2.0 pL;

[0161] - detection: UPLC™ MS - Waters® / ES 1+ / m / z = 445.33.

[0162] A calibration range is carried out beforehand, by preparing 3 control solutions framing the concentration of acetyl hexapeptide-8 of the tests: 5, 10 and 25 pg / ml (dilution of the commercial product ARGIRELINE® Amplified in water).

[0163] For the determination of the peptide in the tested compositions, a sample of each composition is solubilized and diluted in water.

[0164] The results of the assays performed are summarized in Table 2 below.

[0165] Table 2 - Stability test results in the complete composition at 50°C. The results in this table are clear: this peptide is not stable in this composition. When stored at 50°C for one month, a degradation of more than 90% of the peptide is observed. 2 / Example 2 - Peptide stability in a kit according to the invention

[0166] A kit according to the invention contains, in two separate compartments 1 and 2, hermetically sealed from each other, respectively, a composition A and a composition B according to the invention, corresponding to the formulas indicated in Table 3 below. The mixture of humectants containing glycerin is identical to that of the composition of Example 1, the formula of which is given in Table 1 above.

[0167] Table 3 - Formula of compositions A and B

[0168] Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is therefore dissolved in a first compartment containing only water, a colorant, and a preservative. A second compartment contains the rest of the formula (water, humectants, an active ingredient other than acetyl hexapeptide-8, and a preservative).

[0169] The dye will allow verification that the two aqueous compositions, when combined, will be properly homogenized.

[0170] Stability tests of acetyl hexapeptide-8 in composition A within compartment 1 are carried out, according to the protocol of Example 1, but for several storage temperatures (ambient temperature TA: 20-25°C, 40°C, 50°C) and several storage durations (1 month, 2 months, 3 months).

[0171] The results obtained, in terms of % by weight of acetyl hexapeptide-8 in composition A, relative to the total weight of the composition, are summarized in Table 4.

[0172] Table 4 - Results of the stability test in composition A (TA: ambient temperature)

[0173] Acetyl hexapeptide-8, dissolved in composition A in compartment 1, is observed to be perfectly stable, even under the most extreme conditions (3 months at 40°C). The slight variations in values ​​observed are attributable to the limitations of the assay method used.

[0174] For consumer use, compositions A and B are combined, manually homogenized, and the resulting complete cosmetic composition, in serum form, is then ready for use.

[0175] A stability test of acetyl hexapeptide-8 in this complete cosmetic composition is performed again under conditions of use, i.e., at room temperature, and after the composition has been stored for approximately one month. This duration is longer than the cosmetic processing time typically targeted in practice after the complete cosmetic composition is formed, which is usually about 8 to 15 days.

[0176] More specifically, for this final stability test, composition A, containing acetyl hexapeptide-8, remained at room temperature in compartment 1 for 30 days. The compositions of the two compartments were then mixed. The peptide was then quantified at 0°C (immediately after mixing), and subsequently 7, 14, and 35 days after mixing (storage at room temperature). The protocol is similar to that of Example 1, except for the temperature and storage duration.

[0177] The results of this test are summarized in Table 5 below.

[0178] Table 5 - Stability test results in the complete cosmetic composition, stored at room temperature

[0179] No degradation of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is noted, stability in use (room temperature) is perfect after 1 month of storage.

[0180] Thanks to this compartmentalization system, the stability of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is ensured.

[0181] 3 / Example 3 - Consumer test

[0182] A cosmetic composition obtained according to the invention, by mixing compositions A and B described in Table 3, was evaluated in a consumer test to assess perceptions and feelings during use and to determine its strengths and weaknesses under real-world conditions. Seventy-two consumers (men and women) aged 30 to 60 years (average age 49 years) were recruited in France. These individuals are accustomed to using anti-aging cosmetic products.

[0183] The cosmetic composition was evaluated anonymously over a 14-day use period, with the composition being applied twice daily. Evaluation was required at the first application (D1), after 1 day (D1), 7 days (D7), and 14 days (D14). The first application was performed within a few hours of mixing composition A and composition B.

[0184] It should be noted that no intolerance leading to the discontinuation of the test was observed.

[0185] The usage protocol indicated to consumers, which was developed by dermatologists, is as follows: apply 2 to 3 drops of the cosmetic composition to the entire face, morning and evening: - step 1: tighten the features, with the fingertips, make smoothing movements, from the bottom of the face, upwards towards the cheekbones, temples and forehead;

[0186] - step 2: plump the skin, make light pinching motions with the pads of your fingers on the oval areas of the face, cheeks and forehead;

[0187] - Step 3: Sculpt the volumes with your fingertips, finishing by tapping vigorously with upward movements.

[0188] Various criteria were evaluated. For each criterion, and at each time point, consumers assigned a score out of 10. These criteria, and the results obtained, are summarized in Table 6 below.

[0189] Table 6 - Consumer test results

[0190] The cosmetic composition obtained according to the invention does indeed have optimal sensoriality, which was notably reflected during the usage test by a product that is easy to apply, penetrates quickly, and, once spread, does not give a greasy or sticky appearance to the skin.

[0191] It is interesting to note that the scores increase throughout the study on the efficacy criteria. For example, on the criterion "makes skin smooth", only 22% of consumers give a score between 7 and 10 to the first applications, the percentage is 49% on day 1 of the study, then 58% on day 7, and it reaches 72% at the end of the study (Day 14).

[0192] Thus, this kit, composed of 2 distinct aqueous compositions to be mixed before application, allows for an effective cosmetic composition, which makes the skin look younger and has a very good sensory experience.

Claims

DEMANDS 1. Kit comprising two aqueous compositions A and B packaged separately, intended to be mixed to form a cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment of the skin by topical application, characterized in that: - Composition A comprises water, one or more peptides and a preservative, with water representing at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A, and is free from humectant and additional cosmetically active agent; - and composition B includes at least water, a preservative, a humectant and a cosmetically active agent, with water representing at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

2. Kit according to claim 1, wherein composition A comprises at least one acetylated peptide and / or one palmitoylated peptide.

3. Kit according to claim 2, wherein composition A comprises at least acetyl hexapeptide-8.

4. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein composition A comprises a single peptide.

5. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein composition A comprises a dye, preferably the red dye Cl 17200.

6. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein composition B comprises, as a cosmetically active agent, niacinamide.

7. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the volume ratio composition A / composition B is between 10 / 90 and 30 / 70.

8. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein composition A and composition B are oil-free.

9. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein composition A and composition B are devoid of emulsifier.

10. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein composition A and composition B are devoid of gelling and / or thickening agent.

11. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein composition A consists of one or more peptides, one or more preservatives, optionally one or more colorants, and water, the water representing at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

12. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein composition A and composition B are contained in two separate compartments of the same container.

13. Kit according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein composition A and composition B are contained in two separate containers.

14. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment of the skin by topical application, using a kit according to any one of claims 1 to 13, said method comprising mixing composition A and composition B.

15. A method for non-therapeutic cosmetic skin treatment, using a kit according to any one of claims 1 to 13, said method comprising: - mixing composition A and composition B, so as to form a cosmetic composition; - and at least one application of said cosmetic composition topically to the skin.

16. A method according to claim 15, wherein said at least one application is carried out within 30 days after said mixing.

17. Method according to claim 15 or 16, for the treatment of signs of skin aging.

18. A method according to any one of claims 15 to 17, wherein composition A or composition B contains at least one colorant, and said mixing of composition A and composition B is carried out until a homogeneous color cosmetic composition is obtained.

19. Use of a kit according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin.

20. Cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, applicable topically, capable of being obtained by a preparation process according to claim 14, and consisting of: water, one or more peptides, one or more humectants, one or more additional cosmetically active agents, one or more preservatives, and optionally one or more colorants.

Images