COMPOSITION COMPRISING A BLEND OF AN ABSORBENT PIGMENT AND SPECIAL ALUMINUM OXIDE-BASED MOTHERS FOR A SHINY EFFECT, AND THE PROCESS FOR IMPLEMENTING IT

Abstract

Title: : COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF AN ABSORBENT PIGMENT AND SPECIAL ALUMINUM OXIDE-BASED MOTHERS FOR A SHINE EFFECT AND METHOD FOR IMPLEMENTING IT The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition comprising:* at least one absorbent pigment comprising a substrate in the form of calcium sodium borosilicate platelets and a coating applied to the substrate, comprising titanium, iron and tin, the coating comprising a) optionally a layer 1 comprising or consisting of at least one tin oxide, tin hydroxide and / or hydrated tin oxide b) a layer 2 comprising at least one metal oxide, metal hydroxide and / or hydrated metal oxide and c) a layer 3 comprising at least one metal oxide, metal hydroxide and / or hydrated metal oxide;at least one of layers 2 and 3 comprising at least two different metal ions, selected from titanium, iron, tin, and mixtures thereof; layers 2 and 3 being interrupted by at least one spacer layer;* at least one mother-of-pearl composed of aluminum oxide and titanium dioxide, and optionally tin oxide, in a content of less than 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;* at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or non-polar, or silicone-based, and mixtures thereof. It also relates to a lip makeup and / or care process, consisting of applying said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a mixture of an absorbent pigment and special pearlescent pigments based on aluminum oxide for a glossy effect, and method for its implementation

[0001] The present invention relates to makeup compositions for human keratinous materials, in particular the lips, comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or non-polar, or silicone, at least one pigment with an absorbent effect consisting of a borosilicate coated with several layers of oxides, hydrated oxides or metal hydroxides based on titanium, tin, iron, and comprising between the layers, at least one spacer layer; at least one mother-of-pearl consisting of aluminum oxide and titanium dioxide, as well as a makeup process implementing it.

[0002] Cosmetic compositions intended for application, particularly to the lips, especially for care and / or makeup, have been known for a very long time and come in a wide variety of forms. These compositions can range from fluid, more or less viscous formulations, such as oils and glosses, to solid compositions in the form of a stick, with or without support, pencil-like compositions, or compositions packaged in pots or pans constituting a palette.

[0003] The compositions may also be anhydrous or be in the form of emulsions, direct (oil-in-water) or inverse (water-in-oil).

[0004] The present invention relates more particularly to compositions in the form of a stick, preferably comprising little or no water.

[0005] Liquid or solid compositions, particularly those intended for makeup and / or lip care, with a rather glossy finish, are generally obtained from mixtures containing relatively high levels of non-volatile oils, often hydrocarbons or silicones, as well as coloring agents such as mother-of-pearl and / or pigments. The effect can be satin or, conversely, excessively glossy, even glittery or with a mirror-like effect.

[0006] In addition, certain nacres, based on metals such as metallic aluminum, which are effective, have a use which is restricted to certain types of cosmetic compositions, in particular anhydrous compositions, for compatibility reasons.

[0007] One of the current trends is to have natural and discreet makeup, with a finish that reflects healthy and hydrated skin. However, it is complex to achieve such a result that gives a "wet" effect, that is neither satiny nor too shiny, and that allows the skin beneath the makeup to show through, thus giving the impression of hydrated (not dry) and plump skin.

[0008] The objectives of the present invention are therefore to provide cosmetic compositions that achieve such a result, for a wide range of formulations, anhydrous or otherwise. Such compositions are stable, easy to apply, comfortable, and have little or no stickiness, which remain so once applied.

[0009] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to compositions for the makeup of human keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising: * at least one absorbent pigment comprising a substrate in the form of calcium sodium borosilicate platelets and a coating applied to the substrate, comprising titanium, iron and tin, the coating comprising a) optionally a layer 1 comprising or consisting of at least one tin oxide, tin hydroxide and / or hydrated tin oxide b) a layer 2 comprising at least one metal oxide, metal hydroxide and / or hydrated metal oxide and c) a layer 3 comprising at least one metal oxide, metal hydroxide and / or hydrated metal oxide; at least one of layers 2 and 3 comprising at least two different metal ions, selected from titanium, iron, tin, and mixtures thereof; layers 2 and 3 being interrupted by at least one spacer layer; * at least one mother-of-pearl consisting of aluminium oxide, titanium oxide, and possibly tin oxide, in a content of less than 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; * at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or non-polar, or silicone-based, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0010] It also relates to a process for making up keratinous materials, in particular lips, in which the previously defined composition is applied to said human keratinous materials, and preferably to the lips.

[0011] The present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable composition that is very easily applied to the lips in a precise, homogeneous deposit, the shine of which gives the lips a "wet," plumped appearance. The resulting deposit also provides good comfort.

[0012] These and other advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0013] Note that in the rest of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the bounds indicated for a domain are included in that domain.

[0014] The expressions "at least one" and "several" are used interchangeably.

[0015] Furthermore, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients in the composition represents 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Protocol for shear strength measurement

[0016] This measure makes it possible to check the consistency of a product cast in stick form by measuring the maximum force required to slice it.

[0017] The consistency of the composition is measured according to the following protocol: The stick is kept at 20°C + / - 2°C for 16 hours before measuring the consistency. The strength is measured at 20°C using the "butter wire" method, which involves cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical (11.6 mm diameter), transversely with a rigid tungsten wire 0.25 mm in diameter, moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 + / - 10 mm / min. Measurements are taken at least 10 mm from the sample holder. The hardness of the samples, expressed in grams, is measured, for example, using a static fragility tester (breakmeter - Industrial Electronics). The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The hardness is the average of the three values ​​read using the equipment mentioned above.

[0018] According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a consistency at 20°C and atmospheric pressure of between 55 and 150 g, more particularly 60 to 120 g. Viscosity measurement protocol

[0019] Viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 100 viscometer equipped with a No. 4 wheel, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the wheel within the composition, at a shear rate of 200 revolutions / min (rpm). Generally, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity between 5 and 60 Pa.s, preferably from 10 to 50 Pa.s, even more particularly between 15 and 50 Pa.s. Protocol for measuring the color effect

[0020] To evaluate the particular color effect of the invention, the G parameter (graininess) is measured using a multi-angle spectrophotometer (the BYK Mac-I) from the BYK company.

[0021] The composition is considered to have the particular glossy effect, (“wet effect”), when the composition has a G value of at least 5, preferably between 5 and 13, preferably between 5 and 12, or even between 5 and 11.

[0022] Below 5, the effect becomes more matte, this effect is accentuated with the decrease in the value of G. On the other hand, too high a value of this coefficient leads to a makeup result that is too shiny, too glittery, which would cause the loss of the natural appearance of human keratinous materials, in particular the lips.

[0023] Protocol: Step 1: For a liquid composition, homogenize the formula with a spatula. For a solid composition, it must be broken down prior to sample preparation, using a speed mixer at 2 x 3000 rpm for 1 minute. Step 2: Place an A4 sheet on the BYKO-DRIVE spreader and activate the vacuum. Prepare a LENETA Form IA Penopac Chart contrast card. Place the spread square on groove 2 (film thickness of 50.8 µm). Step 3: Take approximately 2g of the composition prepared in step 1 and place it on the edge, inside the spreading square, place the 980g weight on the spreading square and proceed with the application. Step 4: Allow the contrast card to air dry for 24 hours. Step 5: proceed with the measurement on the dark background with the spectrophotometer (3 successive measurements) and average the results of G. PIGMENT WITH ABSORBENT EFFECT

[0024] As stated previously, the composition comprises at least one absorbent pigment comprising a substrate in the form of calcium sodium borosilicate platelets and a coating applied to the substrate, comprising titanium, iron and tin, the coating comprising a) optionally a layer 1 comprising or consisting of at least one tin oxide, tin hydroxide and / or hydrated tin oxide b) a layer 2 comprising at least one metal oxide and / or hydroxide and / or hydrated metal oxide and c) a layer 3 comprising at least one metal oxide and / or hydroxide and / or hydrated metal oxide; at least one of the layers 2 and 3 comprising at least two different metal ions, selected from titanium, iron, tin, and mixtures thereof; layers 2 and 3 being interrupted by at least one spacer layer.

[0025] By "interrupted" means, in the sense of the invention, that layers 2 and 3 are spaced or kept apart from each other by an intercalary layer.

[0026] In the following, the term "metal ion" will be used to indicate that the metal is in a non-zero degree of oxidation, to differentiate it from a metal in the elemental state (zero degree of oxidation).

[0027] Moreover, the term "oxide" is used to designate indifferently particular species such as monoxides, dioxides, trioxides, etc... The same remark is applied to the term hydroxide.

[0028] In a preferred embodiment, the optional layer 1 is directly adjacent to the substrate in the form of platelets, layer 2 directly follows layer 1 and layer 3 follows layer 2, layers 2 and 3 being interrupted by a spacer layer.

[0029] In another embodiment, layer 2 is directly adjacent to the substrate in the form of platelets and layer 3 follows layer 2, layers 2 and 3 being interrupted by a spacer layer. Substrate

[0030] The substrate is in the form of calcium sodium borosilicate glass platelets.

[0031] Preferably, the wafers may have the following composition, the contents being expressed by weight relative to the weight of the glass wafer: 65 to 75% by weight of silicon dioxide (SiO2) 2 to 9% by weight of aluminium oxide (Al2O3) 0.0 to 5% by weight of calcium oxide, preferably CaO 5 to 12% by weight of sodium oxide, preferably Na2O 8 to 15% by weight of boron oxide, preferably B2O3; 0.1 to 5% by weight of titanium oxide, preferably TiO2; 0.0 to 5% by weight of zirconium oxide, preferably ZrO2.

[0032] They can also be manufactured according to the process described in EP289240B1.

[0033] In another embodiment, the glass wafers can be colored in a controlled manner during their production by the addition of at least one inorganic colorant. Suitable colorants are those that do not decompose at the specific melting temperature of the glass composition. Suitable colorants include, in particular, elemental noble metals such as Au, Pd, or Pt, complex cations or anions of the elements Cu, Cr, Mn, Fe, Ti, and / or Co, as well as mixtures of the colorants listed above.

[0034] The proportion of colorant is preferably in a range of 0.1 to 50% by weight, more particularly in a range of 1 to 35% by weight in total, preferably in a range of 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the glass composition.

[0035] In another embodiment, the refractive index of the glass plates usable as a substrate is in a range from 1.45 to 1.80, preferably in a range from 1.50 to 1.70.

[0036] In another embodiment, the substrates, in the form of glass wafers, may be coated with a layer comprising or consisting of silicon dioxide, silicon hydroxide, or hydrated silicon dioxide. For example, the aforementioned coating, in the case of using glass wafers, may protect the surface of the glass of chemical alteration, such as swelling, leaching of glass constituents or dissolution in aggressive acidic covering solutions.

[0037] The average thickness of the substrate in the form of wafers is preferably within a range of 50 to 5000 nm, in particular from 60 to 3000 nm, and more advantageously from 70 to 2000 nm. For the purposes of this invention, average thickness means the arithmetic mean, unless otherwise specified. In one embodiment, the average thickness of the glass wafers is within a range of 750 to 1500 nm, preferably from 850 to 1400 nm, and more particularly from 900 to 1300 nm.

[0038] Thinner substrates in the form of wafers lead to a lower overall thickness of the absorbing pigments of the invention. Thus, in another embodiment, glass wafers with an average thickness in the range of 50 to 700 nm, preferably 101 to 600 nm, in particular 160 to 500 nm, and preferably in the range of 200 to 400 nm, can also be used.

[0039] In one embodiment, the relative standard deviation in the thickness distribution of the substrates in wafer form is 15 to 100%, preferably 17 to 70%, more preferably 19 to 61%, and even more preferably 21 to 41%. The relative standard deviation in [%] is the quotient of the calculated standard deviation and the average thickness.

[0040] The average thickness of the substrate in the form of wafers is determined using a hardened lacquer film in which the pigments with an absorbing effect are aligned essentially in a planar manner and parallel to the substrate, according to the details given in section Ilk of US2017 / 0348201.

[0041] To this end, a cross-section of the hardened lacquer film is examined under a scanning electron microscope (SEM), the thickness of the substrate in platelet form being determined for at least 100 absorbent pigments and statistically averaged. According to the invention, the term "average" always refers to the arithmetic mean, unless otherwise specified.

[0042] Scanning electron micrographs were obtained from cross-sections of the absorbing pigments of the invention using the Supra 35 scanning electron microscope (from Zeiss). Coatings

[0043] Absorbing pigments optionally include a layer 1 comprising or consisting of tin oxide, tin hydroxide and / or hydrated tin oxide.

[0044] Layer 1 may optionally be present at least in part as a mixed layer with a layer directly adjacent to layer 1, for example layer 2.

[0045] Layers 2 and 3, after calcination, are preferably each a layer with a high refractive index, the refractive index n being preferably greater than 1.8, more preferably 1.9 and preferably 2.1.

[0046] According to the invention, the selection of two or more different metal ions in layers 2 and 3 is carried out in such a way that the metal oxide(s), metal hydroxide(s) and / or hydrated metal oxide(s) which form in layers 2 and / or 3 preferably each have an average refractive index of n greater than 1.8.

[0047] The metal oxide(s), metal hydroxides, and / or hydrated metal oxide(s) of layers 2 and 3 comprise at least two different metal ions, more particularly selected from the group of metals consisting of Ti, Fe, Sn, Mn, Zr, Ca, Sr, Ba, Ni, Sb, Ag, Zn, Cu, Ce, Cr, and Co, in particular from Ti, Fe, Sn, Mn, Zr, Ag, Zn, Cu, and Ce. According to the invention, the selection of the different metal ions is carried out such that the resulting effect pigments of the invention are absorbent.

[0048] By "absorbent effect pigments", for the purposes of the present invention, it is understood that their degree of coverage, Dq, defined as Dq = L*25biack / L*25white, is greater than or equal to 0.41, preferably 0.45, more preferably 0.50 and advantageously 0.55. L*25biacket L*25white designate the brightness values ​​measured under a measurement angle of 25° on black and white backgrounds of black / white targets, preferably with the BYK-mac multi-angle colorimeter from Byk-Gardner.

[0049] The covering power is determined by applying to a black / white contrast card (Byko-Chart 2853, of Byk-Gardner), a nitrocellulose lacquer (Erco 2615e colorless bronze mixing lacquer; of Maeder Plastiklack AG) which has been mixed with 6% by weight of said pigment, according to the details that follow in section 1 of US2017 / 0348201.

[0050] The proportion of non-coloring metal ions selected from the group of metals consisting of Ti, Sn, Zr, Ca, Sr, Ba and Zn is preferably 40% by weight, more preferably within a range of 0.1 to 35% by weight, advantageously from 1 to 24% by weight in total, and the proportion of coloring metal ions selected from the group of metals consisting of Fe, Ti, Sn, Mn, Ni, Sb, Ag, Cu, Ce, Cr and Co is preferably 4% by weight; the proportion of coloring metal ions being more particularly within a range of 5 to 80% by weight, advantageously from 20 to 72% by weight in total, determined respectively by XRF, calculated respectively as elemental metal and based respectively on the total weight of the absorbing pigment of the invention.

[0051] The weight ratio of non-coloring metal ions to coloring metal ions in the pigment with absorbing effect is here preferably less than 20, better less than 10, more preferably 1 and preferably 0.8.

[0052] The colouring metal ions of the Ti and Sn metal group relate in particular to Ti in the oxidation state +3 or +2 and Sn in the oxidation state +2.

[0053] The at least two different metal ions are preferably present either in homogeneous distribution in layers 2 and / or 3, or form a gradient there.

[0054] In exceptional cases, the at least two different metal ions may also be present in an inhomogeneous distribution in layers 2 and / or 3.

[0055] By "at least two different metal ions", it is meant that at least two metal ions of different elements are present, for example titanium and iron ions, or titanium and tin ions, or iron and tin ions, etc.

[0056] The different metal ions may be present in layer 2 and / or layer 3 of the pigment with absorbing effect in a mixture of metal oxides and / or metal hydroxides and / or metal oxide hydrates and / or in mixed oxides and / or mixed hydroxides and / or hydrated mixed oxides.

[0057] Layer 2 and / or layer 3 may comprise or be made up of this mixture of metal oxides and / or metal hydroxides and / or hydrated metal oxides and / or mixed oxides and / or mixed hydroxides and / or hydrated mixed oxides.

[0058] Preferably, in the case of use of metal ions Ti and Fe, the component comprising iron ions in the respective layer is present in layer 2 and / or in layer 3 in the calcined absorbing pigment, in the form of iron titanate, preferably in the form of pseudobrookite and / or pseudorutile.

[0059] In one embodiment, one of the two layers 2 and 3 comprises a single type of metal ion, preferably chosen from the group of metals consisting of Fe, Ti, Sn and Zr, more preferably consisting of Fe, Ti and Sn. Correspondingly, the other respective layer of the two layers 3 and 2 comprises at least two different metal ions, preferably chosen from the group of metals consisting of Ti, Sn, Zr and Fe, more preferably consisting of Ti, Sn and Fe.

[0060] In a preferred embodiment, layer 2 and layer 3 comprise at least one metal oxide, metal hydroxide and / or hydrated metal oxide composed of or comprising at least two metal ions selected from the group of metals consisting of Ti, Sn, Zr and Fe, preferably still consisting of Ti, Sn and Fe.

[0061] In another embodiment, the layers 2 and 3 interrupted by the spacing layer are practically identical with regard to the particular composition.

[0062] If said absorbing pigments contain at least one coloring metal ion selected from the group of metals consisting of Fe, Ti, Sn, Mn, Cu, Cr, Co, Ag and Ce, the proportion of said ion, determined in each case by means of XRF and calculated in each case as an elemental metal, preferably totals at least 4% by weight, and is preferably also within a range of 6 to 85% by weight in total, more preferably from 8 to 79% by weight in total and preferably from 10 to 76% by weight in total, on the basis in each case of the total weight of said absorbing pigment.

[0063] In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the layers 2 and 3 comprises at least two different metal ions selected from the group of metals consisting of Ti, Fe, Sn, Mn, Zr, Ca, Sr, Ba, Ni, Sb, Ag, Zn, Cu, Ce, Cr and Co, where at least one of these two metal ions is selected from the group of metals consisting of Ti, Sn, Zr and Zn and where the proportion of colorant metal ions selected from the group of metals consisting of Fe, Ti, Sn, Mn, Cu, Cr, Co, Ag and Ce, determined respectively by XRF and calculated respectively as elemental metal, preferably greater than 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of said absorbing pigment.

[0064] In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one of the layers 2 and 3 comprises metal oxides, metal hydroxides and / or hydrated metal oxides, the metal ions comprising or being the metals Ti and Fe, wherein the Ti / Fe weight ratio, determined respectively by XRF and calculated respectively as elemental metal, is less than 15, preferably less than 10, better still less than 5 and preferably less than 1, and wherein the proportion of Fe, determined by XRF and calculated as elemental metal, is preferably > 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of said absorbent pigment.

[0065] In another particularly preferred embodiment, at least one of the layers 2 and 3 comprises metal oxides, metal hydroxides and / or hydrated metal oxides, the metal ions comprising or being the metals Fe and Sn, the Fe / Sn weight ratio, determined respectively by XRF and calculated respectively as elemental metal, is preferably in a range of 1 to 80, preferably 2 to 60, more preferably 3 to 50 and most particularly 4 to 40, and wherein the proportion of Sn, determined by means of XRF and calculated as elemental metal, is preferably chosen in a range of 1% to 25% by weight, preferably 2 to 19% by weight and more preferably 4% to 15% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of said absorbing pigment.

[0066] The metal oxide, metal hydroxide, and / or hydrated metal oxide contents of the absorbent pigments of the invention are determined as respective metal oxides by means of X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analysis and can be calculated as respective elemental metals. For this purpose, the absorbent pigment The absorbent is incorporated into a lithium tetraborate glass tablet, fixed in dosing cups for solid samples, and analyzed from there. The measuring instrument used was the Thermo Scientific Advantix ARL system.

[0067] The average thickness of layer 1 is preferably less than 10 nm, more particularly less than 5 nm and preferably less than 3 nm, layer 1 completely or incompletely enveloping the substrate in the form of wafers or a coating possibly present.

[0068] The average layer thickness of each of the layers 2 and 3 of the absorbing pigments is preferably within a range of 30 to 350 nm, preferably 35 to 310 nm, even better 90 to 340 nm, more preferably 40 to 280 nm and preferably 50 to 210 nm.

[0069] In a preferred embodiment, the average thickness of layers 2 and 3 is practically the same.

[0070] By "practically the same average layer thickness", it is understood that the ratio of the average thickness of layer 2 and the average thickness of layer 3 is preferably in a range from 0.5 to 1.8, preferably from 0.5 to 1.8, in particular from 0.7 to 1.6, more particularly from 0.8 to 1.4 and preferably from 0.9 to 1.2.

[0071] In another embodiment, in the case of a different physical composition of layers 2 and 3, the respective optical layer thickness of these is practically the same, the optical layer thickness of layers 2 and 3 being able or not to follow the known rule lambda / 4.

[0072] The thickness of the optical layer is defined as the product of the refractive index and the average thickness of the respective layer.

[0073] The average thickness of the overall coating layer of the absorbing pigments is preferably < 800 nm.

[0074] The average thickness of the overall coating layer is preferably within a range of 45 to 650 nm, more preferably within 65 to 530 nm and preferably within 80 to 380 nm.

[0075] By "global coating" is meant the complete coating which starts from the surface of the substrate and extends perpendicularly to it in one direction.

[0076] In one embodiment, the relative standard deviation of the thickness distribution of layers 2 and 3 is from 2 to 74%, preferably from 3 to 63%, more preferably from 4 to 57% and more preferably from 5 to 49% and the relative standard deviation of the layer thickness distribution of the overall coating is from 0.3 to 31%, preferably from 1 to 27%, more preferably from 1.2 to 24% and more preferably from 1.9 to 22%.

[0077] The relative standard deviation in [%] is the quotient of the calculated standard deviation and the average thickness. Spacing layer

[0078] The spacer layer between layers 2 and 3 is preferably arranged essentially parallel to the surface of the substrate in the form of platelets.

[0079] By "essentially parallel" means that, on a scanning electron micrograph of a cross-section, a regression line drawn through a spacing layer, with respect to a regression line drawn on the surface of the substrate in platelet form, has a slope preferably close to 0.

[0080] The position of the spacer layer in the overall coating may vary.

[0081] If, for example, the average thicknesses of layers 2 and 3 are practically identical, the spacing layer, with respect to the overall coating, preferably composed of the optional layer 1 and layers 2 and 3, is located approximately in the middle of the overall coating since the optional layer 1 is preferably extremely thin, preferably only a few layers of atoms thick.

[0082] The interlayer (or spacer layer) is preferably disposed between the first sixth and the sixth sixth of the overall coating relative to the overall coating. The first sixth here refers to the proportion facing the substrate in the form of platelets, and the sixth sixth to the proportion of the overall coating away from the substrate in the form of platelets (see Figure 7 of US2017 / 0348201).

[0083] It should be noted that the spacing layer or layers include more particularly connections and cavities.

[0084] Thus, the intercalated layer formed between layers 2 and 3 preferably has connections, which can also be called spacers, which on the one hand connect the adjacent layers on either side of the intercalated layer and on the other hand keep them spaced apart.

[0085] As can be seen from scanning electron micrographs of cross-sections, these connections or spacers, for example in the form of bars or columns, can be arranged at an angle of approximately 90°, for example from 80° to 100°, relative to the surface of the substrate in the form of wafers. However, they can also take any other angle between 5° and 175°.

[0086] Preferably, the spacers, in particular the bars, preferably the longitudinal axes of the spacers, preferably the bars, are arranged at an angle between 15° and 150°, and more preferably at an angle between 35° and 135°, each case on the surface of the substrate in the form of plates.

[0087] When determining the angle, the plane of the substrate forms the first member. One of the outer sides of the bar in question constitutes the second member in each case.

[0088] The angle formed is determined from the apex of the angle of the two branches, 0° being assumed to be on the left and 180° on the right in the plane of the substrate in the top view of the scanning electron micrographs of cross-sections.

[0089] The connections or spacers can take various geometric forms and are preferably distributed homogeneously over the entire spacing layer. For example, the connections or spacers can take the form of lattices, grids, ladders, sponges, or honeycombs.

[0090] It may also be possible to identify certain structural elements similar to those of a photonic or inverse photonic crystal, as known for example by EP2371908, EP1546063 or EPI 121334.

[0091] The connections or spacers comprise at least one metal oxide, one metal hydroxide and / or one hydrated metal oxide.

[0092] In a preferred embodiment, the connections or spacers comprise a physical composition identical to the layers on either side of the spacer layer.

[0093] Alternatively, it is also possible that a gradient between various metal oxides, metal hydroxides and / or metal oxide hydrates may be formed inside the connections or spacers.

[0094] In a preferred embodiment, the connections or spacers comprise a metal oxide, a metal hydroxide and / or a hydrated metal oxide, the metal ions comprising or being at least two metal ions selected from the group of metals consisting of Ti, Fe, Sn, Mn, Zr, Ca, Sr, Ba, Ni, Ag, Zn, Cu, Ce, Cr and Co, more preferably still from the group consisting of Ti, Fe, Sn, Mn, Zr, Ag, Zn, Cu and Ce, more preferably from the group consisting of Ti, Fe, Sn, Zr, Ag and Ce, and more preferably still from the group consisting of Ti, Fe and Sn.

[0095] The effect pigment spacing layer preferably has an average height ha within a range of 5 to 120 nm, preferably 9 to 95 nm, more preferably 16 to 76 nm, more preferably 21 to 69 nm, more advantageously 22 to 62 nm, and more preferably 26 to 56 nm (see Figure 6 of US2017 / 0348201).

[0096] To determine the average height ha of the spacing layer, the average thickness of layers 2 and 3 and the average thickness of the overall coating layer, scanning electron micrographs of cross-sections are used to establish the upper and lower surfaces of the substrate as baselines.

[0097] What is meant by upper and lower surfaces of the substrate in scanning electron micrographs of cross-sections is the longer side of the substrate in the form of platelets in each case.

[0098] The baseline is drawn on the scanning electron micrograph of the cross-section along the surface of the substrate in the form of platelets.

[0099] Cross-section scanning electron micrographs were analyzed using AxioVision 4.6.3 image processing software (from Zeiss).

[0100] A sufficient number of parallel lines are drawn at 50 nm intervals at an angle of 90° from these two baselines in order to place a grid on the effect pigment shown on the scanning electron micrograph of the cross-section (see Figure 4 of US2017 / 0348201)

[0101] The magnification of the scanning electron micrograph of the cross-section is preferably at least 50,000 times, based on the Polaroid 545 (4" x 5").

[0102] Starting from the respective baseline of the substrate in the form of plates, in the direction of the respective outermost layer 3 or outermost layer, the points of intersection between the parallel lines arranged perpendicular to the respective baseline with the respective interfaces of the optional layer 1 with layer 2, layer 2 with the spacing layer, the spacing layer with layer 3 and layer 3 with the environment or with any other applied layer are analyzed manually.

[0103] It may be here that one of the lines drawn at intervals of 50 nm is located directly above a connection point or a spacer.

[0104] In this case, only the respective intersection point at the interface of layer 3 with the environment or with any other applied layer is recorded.

[0105] These measurements give the layer thicknesses of layers 2 and 3, the layer thickness of the overall coating, the layer thickness of other layers possibly present and the height ha of the spacing layer by difference formation.

[0106] The layer thickness of layer 2 is calculated from the difference between the respective measured intersection points at the respective interfaces of layer 2 with the spacing layer and either of the optional layer 1 with layer 2, or of the baseline with layer 2 if the substrate in the form of wafers has not been covered with other layers beforehand.

[0107] The layer thickness of layer 3 is calculated from the difference between the respective measured intersection points of layer 3 with the environment or any other applied layer and of the spacing layer with layer 3.

[0108] The overall coating layer thickness is calculated from the difference between the respective intersection points of layer 3 with the environment or any other applied layer with the environment and the respective baseline.

[0109] The height ha of the spacing layer is calculated from the difference between the respective measured intersection points of the spacing layer with layer 3 and of layer 2 with the spacing layer.

[0110] The layer thicknesses of any other layers applied can be determined in a similar manner and should be taken into account accordingly when forming differences.

[0111] The individual values ​​of the layer thicknesses and the height ha thus determined are used to form the respective arithmetic means in order to determine the values ​​indicated above for the average layer thicknesses and the average height ha.

[0112] To be statistically significant, the measurements described above are carried out on at least 100 of the parallel lines arranged perpendicular to the baselines.

[0113] The height hma refers to the middle of the spacing layer.

[0114] It is calculated as the total sum of the thickness of the optional layer 1 and layer 2 and half the height ha of the spacing layer.

[0115] The relative height hRma of the midpoint of the spacing layer is formed from the ratio between hma and the thickness of the overall coating layer.

[0116] The standard deviation of the relative height ohRma is preferably within a range of 0.2 to 18%, more preferably still within a range of 0.3 to 15%, more preferably within a range of 0.4 to 11% and more preferably still within a range of 0.5 to 8%.

[0117] The standard deviation of the relative height ohRma is a value of the measure in which the spacing layer is in a defined position parallel to the surface of the substrate in the form of plates over the whole of the coating.

[0118] If the absorbing pigments have at least one other spacer layer, the height hma of this layer and the relative height of the middle of the other spacer layer hRma of this layer are determined by the method described above using scanning electron micrographs of cross-sections.

[0119] The values ​​indicated above for the standard deviation of the relative height ohRma apply accordingly to the other spacing layers.

[0120] Those skilled in the art know that pearlescent pigments coated, for example, with titanium dioxide have pores in the coating that are statistically distributed throughout the coating (see Figure 5 of US2017 / 0348201). These pearlescent pigments do not have a spacer layer.

[0121] On the other hand, the spacer layer and the cavities present within the spacer layer in the absorbent pigments of the invention are not statistically distributed over the whole of the coating, but are arranged parallel to the surface of the substrate in the form of platelets over the whole of the coating.

[0122] The distances between the midpoints of the statistically distributed pores and the substrate surface were also determined by means of scanning electron micrographs of cross-sections by the method described above.

[0123] To this end, a sufficient number of parallel lines were drawn at 50 nm intervals at an angle of 90° to the upper and lower baselines corresponding to the two surfaces of the substrate in the form of platelets so that a grid was placed on the pearlescent pigment without a spacer layer shown on the scanning electron micrograph of a cross-section.

[0124] If one of the parallel lines appeared above one or more pores, the height(s) of the line, the midpoint(s) of the pores and the distance of the midpoint(s) of the pores from the surface of the substrate were determined.

[0125] The statistical distribution of the pore midpoints can also be used to determine a standard deviation.

[0126] The standard deviation of the distances between the median points of the statistically distributed pores and the surface of the substrate is greater than 20% in the pearlescent pigments of the prior art, i.e. in the case of pearlescent pigments without a spacer layer.

[0127] The standard deviation of the distances of the midpoints of the statistically distributed pores with respect to the surface of the substrate is thus markedly different in terms of the value of the standard deviation of the relative height of the midpoint of the spacing layer of the absorbing pigments.

[0128] It is thus possible to compare the standard deviation of the distances from the pore media to the surface of the substrate of pearlescent pigments without an intercalary layer with the standard deviation of the relative height of the midpoint of the spacer layer of the pigments with an absorbing effect of the invention.

[0129] Furthermore, using the lines described above drawn at 50 nm intervals on a scanning electron micrograph, the number of connections or spacers per micrometer and the lattice density, defined as the number of connections or spacers per number of lines in %, is determined.

[0130] If the pigments with absorbent effect have more than one spacer layer in the overall coating, the method just described for measuring the individual layers and the spacer layers is applied accordingly.

[0131] In one embodiment, the relative standard deviation in the height distribution of the spacing layer is 4 to 75%, preferably 7 to 69%, more preferably 9 to 63%, and even more preferably 13 to 60%. The relative standard deviation in [%] of the height distribution is the quotient of the calculated standard deviation and the mean height.

[0132] In a preferred embodiment, the absorbing pigments within the spacer layer have a number of connections or spacers per micrometer in a range of 0 to 11, preferably still in a range of 0 to 9, more preferably in a range of 1 to 7 and preferably in a range of 1 to 3.

[0133] In a preferred embodiment, the absorbing pigments have, within the spacer layer, a network density, defined as the number of connections or spacers per number of lines as a percentage, of less than 85%, preferably from 1% to 75%, more preferably from 1% to 63% and preferably from 1% to 49%.

[0134] Beyond a network density of 85%, there is no longer any reference to a spacing layer since the high proportion of connections or spacers then leads to a very substantially continuous coating.

[0135] In another preferred embodiment, the absorbing pigments comprise at least one spacer layer arranged essentially parallel to the surface of the substrate in the form of platelets, the spacer layer having in each case an average height ha within a range of 19 to 83 nm, more preferably within a range of 27 to 66 nm and even more preferably within a range of 33 to 57 nm.

[0136] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the absorbing pigments have at least one spacer layer with an average height ha in a range of 16 to 79 nm, preferably 21 to 66 nm and preferably 23 to 57 nm, the number of connections or spacers per micrometer inside the spacer layer being chosen in a range of 0 to 8, preferably 0 to 6, more preferably 1 to 5 and preferably 1 to 4.

[0137] The spacer layer includes cavities as well as the connections or spacers described above.

[0138] These cavities are spatially delimited by layers 2 and 3 and the connections or spacers.

[0139] Energy-dispersive X-ray microanalysis (EDX analysis) of these cavities does not allow any conclusion as to whether the material is solid or liquid. In this case, with the currently available analytical methods, it is assumed that the cavities inside the spacer layer contain a gas, probably air.

[0140] The connections or spacers, on the other hand, comprise at least one metal oxide, one metal hydroxide and / or one hydrated metal oxide, as detailed above.

[0141] The cavities inside the spacing layer of the absorbing pigments can take an average height hH in a range from 2 to 119 nm, preferably in a range from 6 to 105 nm, more preferably in a range from 11 to 85 nm and preferably in a range from 18 to 53 nm.

[0142] By height hH we mean the greatest difference between the upper and lower limits of the cavity.

[0143] It is determined by the method described above for the height ha, by drawing parallel lines at intervals of 50 nm at an angle of 90° to the surface of the substrate in the form of platelets in scanning electron micrographs of cross-sections.

[0144] The difference between the two points of intersection of these lines with the upper and lower limits of the cavity is the height hH. Here too, to be statistically significant, the measurements described above are taken on at least 100 lines. Therefore, the mean height ha is a maximum value for the mean height hH.

[0145] Consequently, it is also possible that a plurality of cavities may be present one on top of the other inside the spacing layer.

[0146] The average height of the spacer layer ha and the average height of the cavities hH are determined, using a hardened lacquer film in which the pigments with an absorbing effect are aligned essentially in a planar manner and parallel to the substrate, according to the details given in section Ilk (see US2017 / 0348201).

[0147] To this end, a cross-section of the hardened lacquer film is examined by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), as described above for ha.

[0148] As an alternative to these cross-sections, absorbing pigments can be cut using the FIB (Focused Ion Beam) method. For this purpose, a thin beam of highly accelerated ions (e.g., gallium, xenon, neon, or helium) is focused to a point using ion optics and guided line by line across the surface of the pigment to be treated. Upon impact with the pigment surface, the ions release most of their energy and destroy the coating at that point, resulting in the removal of material line by line.

[0149] It is also possible, using the scanning electron micrographs which were subsequently recorded by the method described above, to determine the average height ha, the average thickness of layers 2 and 3 and the average thickness of the entire coating.

[0150] The average thickness of the substrate in the form of platelets can also be determined using scanning electron micrographs of the effect pigments cut by the FIB method.

[0151] In another embodiment, the absorbing pigments comprise, within the intercalated layer, distributed over the entire effect pigment and measured by scanning electron micrographs of cross-sections, a surface proportion of cavities in a range from 51 to 99%, preferably in a range of 63 to 96%, more preferably in a range of 76 to 95% and preferably in a range of 84 to 94%, and a proportion of surface area of ​​connections or spacers in a range of 1 to 49%, preferably in a range of 4 to 37%, more preferably in a range of 5 to 24% and preferably in a range of 6 to 16%.

[0152] It is also preferable that the total volume occupied by the connections and spacers in the spacing layer be less than the total volume occupied by the cavities.

[0153] Preferably, the total volume occupied by the connections or spacers in the spacing layer is less than 50% by volume, preferably still less than 30% by volume, more preferably less than 20% by volume and preferably less than 10% by volume of the total volume occupied by the cavities.

[0154] According to the invention, the cavities which are not randomly distributed throughout the coating but are present essentially parallel to the surface of the substrate in the form of platelets inside the spacer layer do not have an adverse effect on the optical properties of the absorbing pigments of the invention.

[0155] The gloss of the effect pigments is determined using white / black swatches with a Micro-Tri-Gloss glossmeter from Byk-Gardner, according to the details given in section IId "Gloss Measurements" (see US2017 / 0348201).

[0156] The saturation of the absorbing pigments of the invention is also determined using white / black patches with the BYK-mac multi-angle colorimeter (from the company Byk-Gardner), according to the details given below in section IIb (see US2017 / 0348201).

[0157] In one embodiment, the absorbing pigments comprise, in addition to the layers 1, 2 and 3 described above, other layers with high and / or low refractive index, which can be arranged, viewed from the substrate, in the form of plates, either below the optional layer 1, or in layer 2 and / or above layer 3.

[0158] These additional layers may comprise metal oxides, metal hydroxides, hydrated metal oxides, metal ions comprising or being at least one metal ion selected from the group of metals consisting of Ti, Fe, Sn, Mn, Zr, Ca, Sr, Ba, Ni, Ag, Zn, Cu, Ce, Cr and Co, preferably from Ti, Fe, Sn, Zr, Ag, Zn, Cu, Ce, Cr and more preferably from Ti, Fe and Sn. In addition, these other layers may comprise semi-transparent metals selected from the group consisting of Ag, Al, Cr, Ni, Au, Pt, Pd, Cu, Zn and Ti, preferably Ag, Au and Cu, alloys of each and / or mixtures thereof.

[0159] More particularly, the other layers are chosen such that the proportion of coloring metal ions chosen from the group of metals consisting of Fe, Ti, Sn, Mn, Cu, Cr, Co, Ag and Ce, determined respectively by means of XRF and calculated in each case as elemental metal, preferably totals greater than 4% by weight, and is preferably still within a range of 5 to 82% by weight in total, more preferably 7 to 72% by weight in total and preferably 10 to 68% by weight in total, on the basis in each case of the total weight of the pigment with absorbing effect.

[0160] In addition, the proportion of at least one semi-transparent metal, determined by means of XRF, preferably amounts to at least 1% by weight, and is more preferably within a range of 2 to 20% by weight in total and advantageously, of 3 to 12% by weight in total, respectively with respect to the total weight of the absorbing pigment.

[0161] If the pigments with absorbing effect comprise at least one colouring metal ion and at least one semi-transparent metal, whether they are in the substrate in the form of platelets or in the coating, their proportion preferably amounts to at least 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the pigment with absorbing effect.

[0162] In one embodiment, each layer of the absorbing pigments may be provided with a dopant, the dopant comprising metal oxides, metal hydroxides and / or metal oxide hydrates, and the metal ions being selected from Ca, Mg, Al, Ce, Zr or Sn, preferably Al, Zr or Sn. The proportion of dopant is preferably at most 1% by weight, more preferably at most 0.5% by weight and preferably at most 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the absorbing pigments.

[0163] In another embodiment, the overall coating of the absorbing pigments may, in addition to the spacer layer, include at least one other spacer layer also arranged essentially parallel to the surface of the substrate in the form of platelets between layers 2 and 3.

[0164] Preferably, the absorbing pigments of the invention do not have more than four spacer layers within the overall coating, because their optical quality then decreases.

[0165] It should be noted that even when the effect pigment comprises more than one interlayer, in relation to the overall coating, there is no interlayer in either the first sixth or the sixth sixth of the overall coating.

[0166] Absorbing pigments can have any median particle size D50. The D50 values ​​of the absorbing pigments of the invention are preferably in a range from 3 pm to 350 pm.

[0167] Preferably, the D50 values ​​of the absorbing pigments are in a range from 4 to 211 pm, preferably from 6 to 147 pm, more particularly from 7 pm to 99 pm and preferably from 7 to 99 pm, or even from 8 to 56 pm.

[0168] Exceptionally preferred, the absorbing pigments have a D50 value in the range of 3 to 15 pm, more particularly 10 to 35 pm, especially 25 to 45 pm, advantageously 30 to 65 pm, preferably 40 to 140 pm, or even 135 to 250 pm.

[0169] The D10 values ​​of the absorbing pigments preferably extend in a range from 1 pm to 120 pm. Even more preferably, the D10 values ​​of the absorbing pigments are in a range from 1 to 5 pm or in a range from 5 to 25 pm or in a range from 10 to 30 pm or in a range from 20 to 45 pm or in a range from 25 to 65 pm or in a range from 75 to 110 pm.

[0170] The D90 values ​​of the absorbing pigments preferably extend in a range from 6 pm to 500 pm. Even more preferably, the D90 values ​​of the absorbing pigments of the invention are in a range from 8 to 250 pm or in a range from 10 to 150 pm or in a range from 40 to 70 pm or in a range from 68 to 110 pm or in a range from 120 pm to 180 pm or in a range from 400 to 490 pm.

[0171] The D10, D50 and D90 of the cumulative frequency distribution of the volume mean size distribution function, as obtained by laser diffraction methods, indicate that, respectively, 10%, 50% and 90% of the analyzed effect pigments have a volume mean diameter less than, greater than or equal to, the value specified in each case.

[0172] The size distribution curve of the absorbing pigments is determined using the Malvern Mastersizer 2000 instrument according to the manufacturer's instructions.

[0173] The scattered light signals are evaluated by the Fraunhofer theory, which also includes the diffraction and absorption characteristics of the particles.

[0174] In a preferred embodiment, the absorbing pigments of the invention have an AD range, defined as AD = D90-D10 / D50, in a range of 0.7 to 2.0, preferably in a range of 0.7 to 1.5, preferably still in a range of 0.8 to 1.3, more preferably in a range of 0.8 to 1.2 and most preferably in a range of 0.85 to 1.1.

[0175] Reference may be made to US application 2017 / 0348201 for further details on absorbent pigments and their preparation processes.

[0176] More particularly the pigment with absorbent effect used in the composition according to the invention has the following INCI name: Calcium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxide (and) Tin Oxide.

[0177] This type of pigment is notably marketed under the name Mirage Glamour Space Silver by the company Eckart.

[0178] Advantageously, the effect pigment is present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. ALUMINUM OXIDE-BASED MOTHER-OF-PEARL

[0179] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mother-of-pearl made of aluminum oxide, titanium oxide and optionally tin oxide.

[0180] More particularly, the mother-of-pearl used in the invention comprises a support comprising aluminium oxide (or alumina or A12O3; terms used interchangeably) covered at least in part by titanium oxide (or titanium dioxide; the two terms will again be used interchangeably).

[0181] Mother-of-pearl is in the form of plates.

[0182] More particularly, the particles have a shape characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width, and a height (also called thickness); the length and width being greater than the thickness. Advantageously, the ratio of the largest dimension of the wafer to the height (or thickness) of the wafer is greater than or equal to 5, more particularly greater than or equal to 20. For the purposes of the present invention, the "largest dimension" of the wafers means the diameter of the sphere in which said wafer is inscribed. The dimensions of the particles are, for example, evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis.

[0183] According to a particular embodiment, the aluminum oxide-based support of the nacre also comprises titanium dioxide. According to this embodiment, the titanium dioxide is substantially homogeneously mixed with the aluminum oxide (in other words, the titanium dioxide and the aluminum oxide are not distributed either with a concentration gradient or in the form of superimposed layers).

[0184] Moreover, advantageously, the proportion of aluminium oxide is predominant compared to that of titanium dioxide in the support.

[0185] Preferably, in the support, the titanium dioxide content represents 0.1 to 4% by weight, relative to aluminum oxide.

[0186] The aluminum oxide-based support, optionally comprising titanium dioxide, further comprises a coating at least partially comprising titanium dioxide. According to one embodiment of the invention, the coating may optionally comprise another metal, and preferably tin, also in oxide form.

[0187] More particularly, the second nacre has an average equivalent diameter (D50) in volume between 15 and 30 pm and preferably between 15 and 25 pm.

[0188] The diameter of the sphere which would behave identically during the chosen particle size analysis operation is called the “equivalent diameter”.

[0189] Particle size can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the MasterSizer 2000 from Malvem. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, While accurate for isotropic particles, it allows us to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0190] Such nacres are known and are described in particular in patent US5702519, EP1013724.

[0191] They can notably be marketed under the names Timiron Glam Silver by Merck. Mother-of-pearl marketed under the names Mirinae A9001K Splendor White or Mirinae A9001S Brilliant White by CQV could also be suitable.

[0192] As stated previously, the content is less than 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the first mother-of-pearl is present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 12% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 11.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15 to 11% by weight, and more particularly from 0.15 to 10.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] The weight ratio (absorbent pigment / aluminum oxide-based mother-of-pearl) can vary over a wide range, advantageously from 30 / 70 to 90 / 10

[0195] More specifically, in the case of solid compositions, a range from 30 / 70 to 55 / 45 may be preferred

[0196] More particularly in the case of liquid compositions, a range from 30 / 70 to 90 / 10 may be preferred NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBONATED OR SILICONED OIL

[0197] As stated previously, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oil, or silicone oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0198] Preferably, the content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s), polar or non-polar, or silicone oil(s), represents 10 to 70% by weight, more particularly 15 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] The term "oil" refers to a liquid compound at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013105 Pa), immiscible with water.

[0200] By "immiscible" is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only one phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is made visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, on 100 g of the mixture obtained after sufficient Rayneri shaking to create a vortex within the mixture (for example, 200 to 1000 rpm); the resulting mixture being left to stand in a closed bottle for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

[0201] The term "hydrocarbon oil" is classically used to refer to an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. Hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from silicone oil and fluorinated oil. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oils according to the invention contain only carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen atoms.

[0202] By "siliconized oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, in particular an oil comprising in its structure a -Si-O- group.

[0203] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 20°C is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104). NON-VOLATILE POLAR HYDROCARBONATE OILS

[0204] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen atom, and possibly nitrogen. It may contain one or more alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine, and / or amide groups. Such oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils since they are devoid of silicon atoms.

[0205] More particularly, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is selected from ester oils comprising one or more ester functions, possibly hydroxylated, and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms being at least 12, as well as mixtures thereof; alcohols in the form of C10-C26; ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, whether identical or not, the R, R' groups represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably in C3-C16; more particularly in C8-C16; as well as mixtures thereof. Ester oils

[0206] It is recalled that a polar hydrocarbon ester oil within the meaning of the invention comprises, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one ester function (-C(=O)-O-). The ester oil may optionally comprise other group(s) or function(s), such as, for example, one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), one or more oxygen atoms bonded to two carbon atoms (i.e., an ether function: -O-), for example.

[0207] More particularly, the oil is chosen from among non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions, possibly hydroxylated, and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0208] Preferably, the first oil is chosen from: - vegetable oils; - ester oils, different from vegetable oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; polyesters resulting from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; - liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated acid, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; - as well as their mixtures.

[0209] Suitable ester oils may include vegetable oils; ester oils other than vegetable oils, selected from mono- and di- esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising at least 12 carbon atoms and advantageously from 12 to 80 carbon atoms; triesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms; tetraesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising from 35 to 80 carbon atoms; polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of fatty acid dimers, mono- or poly-unsaturated, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, as well as their mixtures.

[0210] Examples of vegetable oils include castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, flaxseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, bran oil rice, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil,Buriti oil, sandalwood oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0211] Preferably, the vegetable oil may be selected from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0212] Among the monoesters or diesters, mention may be made of those obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, possibly comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from monoalcohol or polyol, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16, as well as mixtures thereof. Examples include octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, and myristate of 2-Octyldodecyl, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and coconut alcohol (Ci2-Ci8 alcohols), octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate,Isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.

[0213] One can also mention mono- and diesters, possibly hydroxylated, of a mono- or polycarboxylic acid in C2-C8 and of a C2-C8 alcohol. In particular, suitable for the implementation of the invention are monoesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; and diesters of a C2-C8 dicarboxylic acid and a C2-C8 alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.

[0214] One can also mention mono- and di- esters of monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and of diols, in particular glycols, especially C2-C5, of glycerol or polyglycerol (preferably 2 to 3 moles of glycerol). Examples include propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] Suitable for the invention are triesters obtained from mono- or polycarboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, in C2-C40, preferably in C4-C40 and from polyols or monoalcohols in C2-C40, preferably in C3-C40. Examples include triacetin, as well as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, in particular, saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, for example such as the products marketed under the DUB MCT range by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of acid in Ci8 36 such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stéarineries Dubois), glyceryl triisostearate. We can also mention glycerol or polyglycerol triesters (preferably 2 or 3 moles of glycerol) and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate), glyceryl-2 tridecyl tetradecanoate. As an example, we can also mention triesters, of an acid comprising three carboxylic functions, in C2-C9, possibly hydroxylated, and of a monoalcohol in C2-C20. We can cite the esters of citric acid such as triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, and their mixtures.

[0216] Regarding tetraesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, possibly hydroxylated, comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, examples include tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, the polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate-2, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0217] Polyesters obtained by esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid, and at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in US patent 7317068, are also suitable. The polyol more particularly comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably stearic, isostearic, caprylic, capric acids, or combinations thereof. As for the dicarboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated, or aromatic, it more particularly comprises 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably is adipic acid.Examples include the product with the INCI name Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, marketed notably under the name Supermol® L by the company Croda, and the product with the INCI name Pentaerythrityl Adipate / Caprate / Caprylate / Heptanoate marketed under the name Lexfeel® 700 EX-LO-MB by the company Inolex.

[0218] Liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms. The carboxylic acid dimer is in particular derived from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, notably at C16 to C22, and more particularly at C8, such as linoleic acid. Suitable polyesters include, alone or in mixtures: - polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and diol such as those described in patent application FR 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, or 1,3-propanediol. Examples include Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® 14436H, and Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer (INCI name) marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast® Green 3000; - copolymers with INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate / Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, as marketed under the name Hailucent® ISDA by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo;

[0219] - polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, The fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, in which the alcohol comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples include compounds with the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan® DD-DA5 and DD-DA7.

[0220] Preferably, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from: - vegetable oils, in particular castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, maize germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof; - linear or branched triesters, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms, such as saturated or unsaturated fatty acid triglycerides, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C2o, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (INCI name); glycerol or polyglycerol triesters and monocarboxylic acids such as Cl8-36 Acid Triglyceride; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate: INCI name); - tetraesters comprising in particular 35 to 80 carbon atoms, such as pentaerythrityl tetraesters or polyglycerol and monocarboxylic acid tetraesters, for example such as tetraisostearate pentaerythrityl, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate; - polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, of which the alcohol comprises 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the compounds with INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - their mixtures. Oils and alcohols

[0221] The non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil may also be selected from fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26, preferably mono-alcohols.

[0222] Advantageously, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms.

[0223] Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0224] By way of particular examples of fatty alcohols which may be used as preferred, the following may be cited in particular: lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0225] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is selected from octyldodecanol. Ether and carbonate oils

[0226] The non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil can also be selected from ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, whether identical or not, the R, R' groups represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably in C3-C16; more particularly in C8-C16.

[0227] Examples include dicaprylyl ether; dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof

[0228] According to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous compositions comprise at least one polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil, more particularly chosen from ester oils.

[0229] According to this first variant, and more particularly in the case of solid compositions, the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 15 to 55% by weight, advantageously from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0230] According to this variant, and more particularly in the case of liquid compositions, the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0231] According to a second preferred embodiment of the invention, compositions comprising at least 5% by weight of water, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil, more particularly selected from the alcohols in C10-C26, the carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0232] According to this second variant, the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 20 to 55% by weight, advantageously from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0233] According to one embodiment of this second variant, the composition comprises at least one alcohol and at least one carbonate oil. According to this embodiment, the alcohol content varies preferably between 20 and 60% by weight, more particularly between 20 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to this embodiment, the carbonate oil content is more particularly between 15 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the alcohol / carbonate weight ratio is between 50 / 50 and 90 / 10, preferably from 55 / 45 to 70 / 30. NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBONATE NON-POLAR OILS

[0234] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant hydrocarbon compounds liquid at 20°C comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure.

[0235] By way of example, the non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil may be selected from paraffin oil, squalane, preferably of vegetable origin, isoeicosane, non-volatile mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, such as mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, with the following INCI names: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), Cl8-21 Alkane (INCI name), C21-28 Alkane (INCI name); polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, decene / butene copolymers, butene / isobutene copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] According to a first variant, the anhydrous compositions contain at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0237] Advantageously, the content of non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) represents 10 to 30% by weight, more particularly 12 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] Preferably, according to this first variant, the solid anhydrous compositions contain at least squalane.

[0239] The squalane usable in the composition according to the invention is preferably of vegetable origin, and may come in particular from olives, or even from sugar cane.

[0240] Squalane is marketed, among others, by the company Amyris under the name Neossance Squalane, by the company Biosynthis under the name Squalive.

[0241] Preferably, according to this first variant, if the composition includes squalane, the content of nonpolar hydrocarbon oil other than squalane advantageously represents less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably the composition does not include any volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oil(s) other than squalane.

[0242] According to a second embodiment, compositions comprising at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, may contain at least one non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil. Preferably, the content of non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil(s), if the composition contains them, does not exceed 5% by weight, more specifically not exceeding 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of it. NON-VOLATILE SILICONE OILS

[0243] Among the non-volatile silicone oils, we can mention non-phenylated silicones, and phenylated silicones with or without a dimethicone fragment.

[0244] The expression "non-phenylated silicone oil" means a silicone oil that does not contain phenyl substituents.

[0245] The term “phenylated” specifies that the oil has at least one phenyl radical in its structure.

[0246] The term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl groups, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0247] Preferably, silicones do not contain C2-C3 alkylene oxide group(s) or glycerol group(s).

[0248] Among the non-volatile non-phenylated silicones, we can mention polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one alkyl group in C2-C24, as well as their mixtures.

[0249] Among the non-volatile phenyl silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, the following INCI name compounds may be cited: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof.

[0250] With regard to phenylated silicone non-volatile oils, devoid of dimethicone fragment(s), the following compounds may be cited: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures. ADDITIONAL OILS

[0251] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one additional oil, different from the aforementioned oils, chosen more particularly from non-polar silicone or hydrocarbon volatile oils.

[0252] By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (therefore liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure), having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa.

[0253] If the composition included at least one additional oil, then its content would represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, its content would not exceed 2 % by weight, or even more advantageously, should not exceed 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition is devoid of it. NON-POLAR VOLATILE HYDROCARBONATE OILS

[0254] Examples of volatile nonpolar hydrocarbon oils include, in particular: - branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isohexadecane; - linear alkanes in C8-C14, for example such as the mixture of n-decane (CIO) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, the n-dodecane (C12) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (Cil) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company and their mixtures; - and their mixtures.

[0255] It should be noted that such oils may come from the petroleum-related industry (petrochemical industry) or be of vegetable origin.

[0256] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of nonpolar hydrocarbon oil(s), volatile or non-volatile, from the petrochemical industry, is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is free of it. VOLATILE SILICONE OILS

[0257] Examples of volatile silicone oils include dimethicone with a viscosity of less than 5cSt (5 x 103 mm2 / s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard), octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0258] More particularly, if the composition includes them, the content of additional volatile silicone oil(s) is less than or equal to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably the composition does not include any volatile silicone oil(s). WAXES

[0259] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one wax, more particularly hydrocarbon, polar or non-polar.

[0260] More particularly, in the sense of the invention, it is recalled that a wax is in general, a lipophilic compound solid at room temperature (20°C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting temperature in particular greater than or equal to 45°C and less than or equal to 120°C, more particularly less than or equal to 90°C.

[0261] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999.

[0262] The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC 2000" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.

[0263] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the wax is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve.

[0264] If the composition according to the invention includes wax, the wax content varies more specifically from 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. NON-POLAR HYDROCARBONATE WAXES

[0265] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax", in the context of the present invention, means a wax consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms, such as for example N, O, Si, P....

[0266] Examples of non-polar waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes (or Synthetic Wax), and micro-waxes, particularly polyethylene. POLAR HYDROCARBONATE WAXES

[0267] For the purposes of this invention, "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one heteroatom plus It is particularly chosen from oxygen, possibly nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may therefore contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0268] As a hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from among ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred.

[0269] According to the invention, "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0270] By "alcohol wax", according to the invention, a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0271] Among the hydrocarbon ester polar waxes that can be used within the scope of the present invention, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures:

[0272] (i) Waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent chains linear, branched or cyclic aliphatics with a number of atoms ranging from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting temperature ranges from 45 to 120°C, preferably from 45 to 100°C. In particular, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate in the C2O-C4O group (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used as an ester wax, alone or in a mixture, or an alkyl stearate in the C2O-C4O group. Such waxes are notably sold under the names KESTER WAX® K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, KESTER WAX® K 80 P, or KESTER WAX® K82H by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. Mixtures of carboxylic acid esters in the Ci4-Ci8 group and alcohols can also be used, such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from KOSTER KEUNEN, SP Crodamol MS MB AL, Crodamol MS PA from CRODA, and Miraceti from LASERSON.

[0273] ii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.

[0274] iii) Waxes of animal or vegetable origin. Examples of suitable waxes include beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax, sunflower wax, candelilla wax, camauba wax, mimosa wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, refined or unrefined, and mixtures thereof.

[0275] iv) Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin (such as lauric, cetyl, stearyl, myristyl, behenyl alcohols) and vegetable oil, such as olive oil, castor oil. We can cite in particular waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having in particular fatty chains, linear or branched, in C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil. As examples of waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from vegetable-derived C6-C22 fatty alcohols and vegetable oil, we can also mention the following INCI-named waxes: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Stearyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters. Such waxes are marketed under the names Phytowax® Olive 12 L44, Phytowax® Olive 14 L 48, Phytowax® Olive 16 L 55, Phytowax® Olive 18 L 57, Phytowax® Castor 16 L 64, Phytowax® Castor 18 L 69, and Phytowax® Castor 22 L 73 by the company Sophim. These waxes are described in application FR2792190.

[0276] (v) polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; preferably polyoxyethylated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylated camauba waxes, such as PEG-12 camauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polyoxyethened or polyoxypropylened, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.

[0277] vi) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated Ci6-C3o carboxylic acid, possibly hydroxylated, with glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate (INCI name: Tristearin), glyceryl trihydroxystearate (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin), glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: Tribehenin), alone or in mixture;

[0278] vii) Their mixtures.

[0279] Among the alcohol waxes, mention may be made of fatty alcohols, solid at 20°C, saturated or unsaturated, in C12-C24, preferably in C14-C20, preferably in C14-C18, for example alcohols selected from cetearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50 / 50), alcohol stearyl, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, C16-C22 alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0280] Preferably, the additional polar hydrocarbon wax is chosen from ester waxes, in particular: * waxes of animal or vegetable origin; * waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil; * polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin, and their mixtures; * as well as their mixtures.

[0281] More particularly, the additional hydrocarbon polar wax(s) are selected from beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, mimosa wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, refined or unrefined, and mixtures thereof; from hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor or olive oil, and mixtures thereof.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the additional wax(s) are chosen from among candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0282] Preferably, polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin, are chosen from polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and their mixtures.

[0283] Preferably, the composition comprises as additional polar wax(s) at least one wax selected from among the ester waxes, in particular from among the vegetable waxes, including sunflower wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, mimosa wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof; hydrogenated jojoba oil; from among the natural or synthetic polyglycerol waxes, of animal or vegetable origin, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, esters from the reaction of the vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof.

[0284] According to a first variant, in the case of solid anhydrous compositions, the composition comprises at least sunflower wax, at least hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least one additional polar wax different from the first two mentioned, in particular vegetable waxes, such as candelilla wax, camauba wax, rice bran wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0285] Preferably, according to this variant, the total wax content is less than or equal to 20% by weight, more particularly at least 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the content varies from 9 to 15% by weight, even more advantageously from 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0286] More specifically, the content of additional polar wax(s) varies from 3 to 9% by weight, preferably from 3.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Sunflower wax

[0287] Sunflower wax (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) is obtained by cooling (winterizing) sunflower seed oil, filtering, and then refining. It is notably marketed by the company Koster Keunen.

[0288] It is in the form of a solid with a melting point between 74 and 77°C. It is mainly composed of saturated monoesters comprising 42 to 62 carbon atoms.

[0289] More particularly, the composition according to the invention has a sunflower wax content of between 1.5 and 8% by weight, in particular between 1.8 and 8% by weight, preferably between 2 and 7% by weight, or even between 2 and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrogenated jojoba oil

[0290] Hydrogenated jojoba oil, with the INCI name Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, is more specifically obtained by catalytic and total hydrogenation of jojoba oil obtained from the seeds of Simmondsia Chinensis. Total hydrogenation means obtaining a compound with an iodine value of less than 2.

[0291] Hydrogenated jojoba oil is in the form of a solid with a melting temperature between 67 and 72°C, more particularly between 68 and 71°C.

[0292] Hydrogenated jojoba oil consists mainly of saturated monoesters, comprising 36 to 48 carbon atoms.

[0293] It is notably marketed by the company Vantage Speciality Chemicals under the commercial reference Desert Whale Jojoba Wax Flakes.

[0294] In particular, the content of hydrogenated jojoba oil varies from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0295] According to a second variant, in the case of liquid compositions, if the composition includes them, the content of hydrocarbon wax(s) varies from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0296] SOLID HYDROCARBONATE COMPOUNDS OTHER THAN WAXES

[0297] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one solid hydrocarbon compound at 20°C, different from the aforementioned waxes, selected from vegetable butters or butters derived from vegetable oils; polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; polyester obtained from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C1O dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C2O; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0298] If the composition includes them, the content of solid compound(s) other than waxes varies from 0.1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0299] According to a first variant, the solid hydrocarbon compound is selected from vegetable butters, such as mango butter (INCI name: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter), such as that marketed under the reference Trivent Mango Butter by Alzo, shea butter (INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), such as that marketed under the references Lipex 102, Lipex Shea, Lipex Sheasoft by Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (INCI name: Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), for example marketed under the name Rain Forest 03410 by Beraca Sabara, murumuru butter (INCI name: ) marketed in particular under the reference RAIN FOREST 03710 by Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter (INCI name: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter), for example marketed under the reference PPP Cocoa Butter Deodorized by Dutch Cocoa,Jojoba butter (INCI name: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter), notably marketed by the company Desert Whale under the name Iso Jojoba 50, as well as their blends.

[0300] Suitable solid hydrocarbon compounds include butters obtained from vegetable oils, particularly those obtained by partial or total hydrogenation of the oil, such as compounds with the following INCI names: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, marketed notably under the name Akogel by Aarhuskarlshamn, and under the name Cegesoft® HF 52 by BASF; Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, notably marketed under the name Softisan 100 by IOI Oleo; and partially hydrogenated olive oil. hydrogenated for example marketed under the reference Beurrolive® by the company Soliance (INCI name: Hydrogenated Olive Oil), their blends.

[0301] Also suitable are esters from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid, preferably saturated, in C6-C10 and of an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, in C6-C20, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of fatty acids in C6-C20 such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, the compound with INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, for example marketed under the reference SOFTISAN 649 by the company IOI Oleo.

[0302] With regard to polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, examples may be cited:

[0303] * the dimer esters of dilinoleic alcohol and dilinoleic acid whose groups hydroxylateds are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool® G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0304] * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, alcohol isostearyl, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool® H or Plandool® S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

[0305] * hydrogenated castor oil esters and dilinoleic acid dimer, such as those sold under the names Risocast®-DA-L or Risocast® DA-H by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

[0306] Preferably, the solid compound(s) at 20°C, other than waxes, are chosen from vegetable butters, butters obtained from vegetable oils, triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably Ci2-Ci8; polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid; fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid in C6-Ci0 and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0307] Advantageously, the solid compound at 20°C, different from the aforementioned waxes, is chosen from: * the compounds with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Diinoleate, their mixtures; * vegetable butters such as mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, and mixtures thereof; * compounds with INCI names Hydrogenated Vegetable oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, and their mixtures; * the compound with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, * their mixtures; Even more preferably, the solid compound at 20°C, different from waxes, is chosen from the compounds with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Diinoleate, their mixtures; vegetable butters such as mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, their mixtures; their mixtures.

[0308] The solid hydrocarbon compound, other than waxes, may be a pasty compound.

[0309] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty compound" means a lipophilic fatty solid compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising, at a temperature of 20-25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a starting melting point below 20-25°C.

[0310] The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes. In the case of a pasty compound, however, the measurement protocol is as follows:

[0311] Note that to determine the melting point of solid compounds other than waxes, the following protocol is used in particular: A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of said pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat in a paste form is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. A fat in a paste form is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat-based substance is the amount of energy required to change the fat-based substance from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of the fat-based substance is equal to the energy generated under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0312] Advantageously, the content of solid hydrocarbon compound(s) at 20°C other than waxes varies from 15 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0313] According to a first embodiment of the invention, when the composition is solid and anhydrous, the composition comprises at least one solid compound other than waxes. Preferably, the content of solid compound(s) other than waxes represents 20 to 40% by weight, more particularly 25 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0314] According to a second embodiment, when the composition is liquid and anhydrous, the composition comprises at least one solid compound other than waxes. Preferably, the content of solid compound(s) other than waxes represents 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0315] According to a third embodiment of the invention, when the composition includes water, it may include at least one solid compound other than waxes, preferably in a content of between 0.1 and 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Preferably, such a composition does not include any such compounds. COLORING MATERIALS

[0316] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one colouring material different from the pigment with absorbent effect and the nacre made of aluminium oxide, titanium oxide and optionally tin oxide, described above.

[0317] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring matter can be chosen from powdered coloring materials, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

[0318] Preferably, if the composition includes it, said powdered colouring material(s) is / are present, preferably, in a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3.5% by weight, more particularly 0.4 to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0319] Powdered colouring materials may be selected from pigments, including mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl and mixtures thereof.

[0320] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the composition, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0321] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0322] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0323] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0324] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0325] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0326] D

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0327] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0328] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0329] According to a preferred mode, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0330] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.

[0331] According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by Kobo.

[0332] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0333] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0334] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic, phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2679771.

[0335] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0336] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0337] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0338] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. Other products known by the following names include: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), Red 6 (CI 15 850), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090), D&C Red 22, D&C Red 28, D&C Red 30.

[0339] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0340] In particular, the pigment content, especially organic pigment(s), is between 0 and 1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may optionally not include such pigments, especially organic ones.

[0341] The pigment can also be a nacre, different from the absorbent pigment and nacre described previously.

[0342] By “mother-of-pearl”, we must understand particles of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthesized, and which exhibit at least one color effect by optical interference.

[0343] The mother-of-pearls suitable for the invention are more particularly mother-of-pearls based on natural mica, synthetic mica, borosilicate, such as calcium aluminium borosilicate, calcium sodium borosilicate, and their combinations.

[0344] The nacre(s) contain at least one mineral species based on at least one metal, chosen for example from iron, tin, chromium, titanium, and their combinations.

[0345] Particularly suitable are metallic oxides, such as iron, chromium, tin, titanium oxides, or even ferric ferrocyanide.

[0346] They may also include at least one organic pigment as defined above.

[0347] Nacres, different from the absorbent effect pigment and the nacre based on aluminium oxide, can thus be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica, natural or synthetic, coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, ferric blue, chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0348] If the composition includes at least one nacre other than the absorbent pigment and the aluminum oxide-based nacre, the content varies more particularly between 0.1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0349] According to a first variant, if the composition is anhydrous, the content of nacre, different from the pigment with absorbent effect and the nacre based on aluminium oxide, represents more particularly 1 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0350] According to a second variant, if the composition includes at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, the content of nacre, different from the pigment with absorbent effect and the nacre based on aluminium oxide, represents more particularly 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. CHARGES

[0351] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler.

[0352] The filler is chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers, and mixtures thereof.

[0353] The term "charge" refers to a particle of organic or mineral nature, colorless or white, solid, of any shape, insoluble in the medium of the composition at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. These charges are advantageously dispersed in the composition.

[0354] According to one embodiment of the invention, if the composition contains it, the content of filler(s) represents from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. MINERAL CHARGES

[0355] The term “mineral filler” means any compound whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom, regardless of the presence of a coating on said filler.

[0356] The charges are in the form of particles and are distinct from the coloring materials which will be described below.

[0357] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be particles of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous, or any other intermediate shape between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, that is to say, comprising at least one generally rounded portion, in particular defining at least one portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.

[0358] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the charges more particularly have an average particle size (expressed as volume average diameter - D

[50] ) of at least 1 pm, preferably at least 2 pm, advantageously between 2 and 15 pm. The particle size can be measured by laser diffraction using a commercial particle size analyzer of the Mastersizer 3000 type, from Malvern. (see also ISO 13320).

[0359] The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular, they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, especially one that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler within the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be selected from silicones, in particular silanes; fluorinated derivatives; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group.The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited above refers in particular to an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0360] Such fillers may advantageously be chosen from silica (INCI name: Silica), perlite, zeolites, calcium magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, kaolin, talc, diatomaceous earth, natural or synthetic mica, boron nitride; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, bismuth oxychloride, glass or ceramic microcapsules; such as borosilicate particles, their mixtures. ORGANIC LOADS

[0361] By "organic charge" means, in the sense of the invention, solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon or silicone compound, preferably hydrocarbon, regardless of their coating.

[0362] The fillers are in the form of particles and may also be surface treated or not, by means of compounds such as those described above in the context of mineral fillers.

[0363] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous, or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers may be spherical, that is to say, comprising at least one generally rounded portion, in particular defining at least one portion of a sphere, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.

[0364] Suitable fillers include cellulose particles, micronized waxes, natural or synthetic, metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, polysaccharide powders, and in particular starch powders, especially corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or uncrosslinked, starch powders crosslinked by octenylsuccinate anhydride, waxy corn starch powders, N-acylated amino acids with C8-C22 carbon atoms, for example, lauroyl lysine, and mixtures thereof.

[0365] According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition, when anhydrous and solid, comprises at least one cellulose-type filler.

[0366] According to this variant, the cellulose particle content represents 2 to 10% by weight, preferably 3 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0367] The cellulose particles usable according to the invention are preferably spherical (cellulose beads).

[0368] For the purposes of this invention, spherical particles are defined as solid or porous particles, whose surface may or may not be smooth, having an average circularity parameter of at least 0.95. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disk having the same area as the particle to Particle perimeter. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.

[0369] The "average circularity" can be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" can be an arithmetic mean of circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of not less than 2000 particles observed at a magnification of 1000 by detection of secondary electrons using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0370] The "circularity" of each particle is a value determined by the following formula: C = 4irS / L² where C represents a circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the particle in the image. As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.

[0371] They preferably have an average size (D(50) in volume) less than or equal to 40 pm, preferably ranging from 1 to 20 pm, more preferably from 2 to 15 pm.

[0372] Particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvem MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory.

[0373] Among the cellulose particles that can be used according to the invention, we can mention in particular those sold by the company Daito under the brand name Cellulobeads® such as Cellulobeads USF®, Cellulobeads USF-X®, Cellulobeads D-5®, Cellulobeads D-10®, Cellulobeads D-30®.

[0374] We can also mention, although they are not preferred, acrylic (co)polymer particles, and their derivatives, for example the polymers with the following INCI names: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Methyl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates Crosspolymer, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates / Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, polyamide particles, such as Nylon; silicone particles, in particular silicone resin particles (e.g. Polymethylsilsesquioxane), silicone elastomer particles, in particular Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Dimethicone / Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone / Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Methylsilanol / Silicate Crosspolymer particles, and mixtures thereof.

[0375] Preferably, the organic filler is not chosen from silicone fillers, nor from acrylic (co)polymers, acrylonitril, polyurethane, polyamides, as described above. ETHYLCELLULOSE

[0376] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least ethylcellulose.

[0377] Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + C2H5C1 → ROC2H5 + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical. Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead, for each anhydroglucose unit, to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words, to an alkoxy, in particular ethoxy, content of 54.88%.

[0378] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups, ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44% to 50%.

[0379] The average molar mass of ethylcellulose is preferably chosen so that the viscosity of a 5 wt% solution in an 80 / 20 (toluene / ethanol) mixture at 25°C is from 4 to 300 mPa.s, preferably from 5 to 200 mPa.s, for example from 5 to 150 mPa.s. (ASTM D 914 standard).

[0380] The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention is more particularly in powder form.

[0381] It is, for example, marketed under the trade names ETHOCEL Standard by Dow Chemicals, including ETHOCEL Standard 7 FP Premium and ETHOCEL Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0382] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition, when it comprises at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, also comprises ethylcellulose.

[0383] According to this variant, the ethylcellulose content represents more particularly 8 to 17% by weight, preferably 8 to 15% by weight, or even 9 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably 10 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. LIPOPHILE THICKENERS

[0384] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen more particularly from silicas, treated hydrophobic or not; lipophilic clays; alone or in mixture. SILICES

[0385] The composition according to the invention may thus include, as a mineral thickener, a fumed silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. Pyrogenated silica

[0386] Suitable for the invention is hydrophobically treated fumed silica. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.

[0387] Hydrophobic groups can be: - Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot. - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot. Silica aerogels

[0388] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0389] They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0390] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m² / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m² / g and better 600 to 800 m² / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) of 1 to 1500 pm, better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to I OOpm, especially from 1 to 30 pm, preferably still from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0391] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0392] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, Page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0393] The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0394] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0395] Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name Silica Silylate).

[0396] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl Si-Rn groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0397] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.

[0398] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0399] As an example of hydrophobic silica aerogels usable in the invention, we may cite, for instance, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0400] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201®, AEROGEL OGD 201®, AEROGEL TLD 203®, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100®, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 120.

[0401] We can also mention the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. LIPOPHILE CLAYS

[0402] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

[0403] 'clay' means a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

[0404] Clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C22 C1O ammonium chloride, in particular steralkonium chloride or di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

[0405] They can be chosen from among bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0406] Preferably, they are chosen from among the hectorites and the bentonites.

[0407] For example, a lipophilic clay selected from hydrophobic modified bentonites and hydrophobic modified hectorites, in particular by a quaternary ammonium chloride in C22CIO, can be used, such as: - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride such as the commercial products sold under the name CLAYTONE AF®, GARAMITE VT®, TIXOGEL® LG-M, TIXOGEL® MP 250 TIXOGEL® VZ, TIXOGEL® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; the commercial products sold under the name VISCOGEL® B3, VISCOGEL® B4, VISCOGEL® B7, VISCOGEL® B8, VISCOGEL® ED, VISCOGEL® GM, VISCOGEL® S4, VISCOGEL® SD by the company Bentec SPA; - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil such as the commercial products DUB VELVET GUM® from STEARINERIE DUBOIS FILS, MYGLYOL GEL T® from Cremer Oleo, TIXOGEL® CGT 6030, TIXOGEL® DBA 6060, TIXOGEL® FTN, TIXOGEL® FTN 1564, TIXOGEL® IPM, TIXOGEL® LAN, TIXOGEL® LAN 1563 by BYK Additives Inc; - a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE) such as, for example, that marketed under the name BENTONE® 38VCG RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVE by the company Elementis Specialities; - a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil such as the commercial products sold under the name BENTONE® GEL DOA V, BENTONE® GEL EUG V, BENTONE® GEL IHD V, BENTONE® GEL ISD V, BENTONE® GEL MIO V® BENTONE® GEL PTM V® BENTONE® SS-71 V, BENTONE® VS-5 PC V, BENTONE® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities; the commercial products sold under the name CREAGEL BENTONE CPS / HECTONE CPS®, CREAGEL BENTONE ID / HECTONE ID® by the company Créations Couleurs; the commercial products sold under the name NS GEL DM1®, NS GEL PTIS®, NS MGEL 1152® by the company Next Step Laboratories Stop.

[0408] Lipophilic gelling agents may also be mentioned, such as dextrin and fatty acid esters, in particular C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the dextrin ester is a dextrin and fatty acid ester in the C12-C18 range, in particular C14-C18.

[0409] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition at concentrations ranging, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0410] According to a variant of the invention, when the composition is anhydrous liquid, it preferably comprises at least one lipophilic thickener, more particularly chosen from clays, preferably at a content of 5 to 8.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. WATER

[0411] The composition according to the invention may optionally include water.

[0412] According to a first variant, the composition is considered anhydrous. More specifically, the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably not exceeding 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition contains any, does not exceed 1% by weight, in particular not exceeding 0.5% by weight, and even more particularly not exceeding 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0413] According to a second variant, the water content is at least 5% by weight, more particularly between 5 and 40% by weight, more advantageously between 5 and 30% by weight, more particularly between 5 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. WATER-SOLUBLE SOLVENT

[0414] The composition according to the invention may include, in addition to water, at least one water-soluble solvent.

[0415] This variant is particularly suitable for compositions not considered anhydrous within the meaning of the invention.

[0416] In the present invention, "water-soluble solvent" means a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa)).

[0417] The water-soluble solvents usable in the composition according to the invention may also be volatile.

[0418] Among the usable water-soluble solvents, one can mention in particular monoalcohols, more specifically saturated with C5-C12 atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3- and C4-C4 ketones and C2-C4-C4 aldehydes, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the water-soluble solvent is chosen from among monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0419] If the composition includes them, the content of water-soluble solvent(s) is more particularly between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 1 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. LIQUID POLYOL

[0420] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise, in addition to water, at least one liquid polyol at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0421] The term “polyol” means any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (or free hydroxyl groups).

[0422] This variant is particularly suitable for compositions not considered anhydrous within the meaning of the invention.

[0423] More particularly, the liquid polyol(s) are selected from C2-C8 compounds, more particularly C3-C6, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, preferably comprising 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups.

[0424] Advantageously, the polyol can be selected for example from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethylhexyl glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0425] Preferably the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, dibutylene glycol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof; even more advantageously, glycerol.

[0426] Preferably, if the composition includes at least one liquid polyol as described above, its content varies from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0427] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, where the composition comprises at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase represents from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. It is specified that aqueous phase means water and, where applicable, water-soluble solvent(s) and liquid polyol(s). SURFACTANTS

[0428] The composition according to the invention may include at least one hydrocarbon surfactant, more particularly non-ionic.

[0429] This variant is particularly suitable for compositions not considered anhydrous within the meaning of the invention.

[0430] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surfactant(s) are chosen from at least one first non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactant chosen from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, and mixtures thereof, and optionally at least one additional non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactant.

[0431] Preferably, according to a variant of the invention, when the composition comprises at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, then it more particularly comprises at least one hydrocarbon surfactant. NONIONIC HYDROCARBONATE SURFACTANTS

[0432] As stated previously, the composition according to the invention may include at least one first nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant selected from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0433] Among sucrose esters, particular examples include sucrose cocoate, mono- or poly- esters, preferably mono-, di- or tri- esters comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated Ci2-C24 group. Preferably, sucrose esters do not contain an alkoxy group (in particular ethoxylated or propoxylated). Suitable sucrose esters include, for example, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate, and sucrose tristearate, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the sucrose ester is chosen from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

[0434] With regard to sorbitan esters, one may mention mono-, or poly- esters, preferably mono-, di- or tri- esters, of sorbitan, comprising at least one group in C12-C24, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, sorbitan esters do not contain an alkoxy group (in particular ethoxylated, propoxylated). Suitable sorbitan esters include, for example, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan triloleate, sorbitan palmitate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan triloleate, sorbitan palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0435] Preferably, the composition comprises, as a nonionic hydrocarbon surfactant, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the sucrose ester is selected from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

[0436] More particularly, when the composition includes it, the content of first non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactant(s) varies from 1 to 7% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 6% by weight, and advantageously from 2 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL NON-IONIC SURFACTANTS

[0437] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one additional non-ionic hydrocarbon or silicone surfactant, preferably hydrocarbon.

[0438] The additional nonionic surfactant(s) may be selected in particular from among (poly)oxyalkylated alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters; (poly)oxyalkylated alcohols; (poly)oxyalkylated ethers; (poly)oxyalkylated sorbitan alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters; (poly)oxyalkylated or un-sorbitan ethers; alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycosides or polyglycosides (in particular glucosides); (poly)oxyalkylated or un-alkylated (poly)glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-esters; (poly)oxyalkylated or un-alkylated (poly)glycerol alkyl- and polyalkyl-ethers; and mixtures thereof. These compounds more particularly comprise at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical; the oxyalkylated motif is a C2-C3 motif, preferably ethylene oxide. The number of oxyalkylated motif(s), more particularly oxyethylated motif(s), as well as the number of (poly)glycerol motifs vary according to the desired HLB value.

[0439] If present, the content of additional non-ionic surfactant(s) is advantageously lower than the content of the first surfactant(s). Their content is obviously determined to maintain a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0440] More particularly, if the composition contains it, the content of additional non-ionic surfactant(s) represents from 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0441] More particularly, the content of additional non-ionic surfactant(s) represents from 1 to 50% by weight, more advantageously from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of first non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactant(s).

[0442] Preferably, the composition is free from additional non-ionic surfactant(s). ADDITIONAL ANIONIC SURFACTANTS

[0443] The composition according to the invention may optionally include at least one additional anionic surfactant, more particularly hydrocarbon.

[0444] Anionic surfactants can be selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C10-C3O fatty acids.

[0445] More particularly, these compounds are found in the form of salts of alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, or of amine or alkanolamine, in particular in C2-C4, primary or secondary.

[0446] These compounds generally comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 20 carbon atoms in their longest hydrocarbon chain, and are saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic. They may further comprise up to 20 oxyalkylated motifs, preferably up to 15 motifs (in particular oxyethylated).

[0447] If the composition includes it, the content of additional anionic surfactant(s) is such that the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0448] More specifically, if the composition includes them, the content of the additional anionic surfactant(s) is less than or equal to 1% by weight, more specifically less than or equal to 0.4% by weight, and even more specifically less than or equal to 0.3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. For example, the content of the additional anionic surfactant(s) may be between 0.01% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0449] More particularly, the content of anionic surfactant(s) represents from 1 to 50% by weight, more advantageously from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of first non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactant(s).

[0450] Preferably, the composition is free from additional anionic surfactant(s). OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS

[0451] In the context of the present invention, the composition may further contain at least one optional adjuvant selected from those commonly used in the field cosmetics, in particular for makeup and / or skin and lip care compositions.

[0452] Examples include lipophilic mineral thickening agents, organic thickeners (different from the thickeners described above) such as dextrin esters; preservatives; water-soluble or fat-soluble coloring materials; antioxidants; complexing agents; active ingredients; perfumes; etc.

[0453] These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the desired property of the composition of the invention.

[0454] These optional adjuvants may be present at a content of up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0455] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a solid cosmetic composition comprising, in addition to the absorbent pigment and mother-of-pearl described above, in the indicated contents: * 2 to 10% by weight, in a charge chosen from among the cellulose particles; * at least one first polar hydrocarbon ester oil; * possibly at least one second oil chosen from among the linear nonpolar hydrocarbon oils in C15-C30, or branched in C17-C30, and preferably squalane; * at least one mixture of polar hydrocarbon waxes comprising sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba oil and at least one third polar hydrocarbon wax, different from sunflower wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil; the total wax content being less than 20% by weight; * at least one solid hydrocarbon compound at 20°C, other than waxes, chosen from vegetable butters or butters derived from vegetable oils, polyesters obtained at least from a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid; the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the polyester resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C1O dicarboxylic acid and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C2O; as well as mixtures thereof; * possibly at least one additional oil, chosen from polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils different from the first and second oils, at a content not exceeding 5% by weight.

[0456] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition is a liquid composition comprising, in addition to the absorbent pigment and the mother-of-pearl described above: less than 5% by weight of water; at least one polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil, preferably selected from ester oils; at least one non-polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil; optionally at least one non- volatile silicone; at least one solid fat other than waxes; and at least one lipophilic thickener, preferably chosen from silicas.

[0457] According to a third embodiment of the invention, the composition is a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, in addition to the absorbent pigment and the mother-of-pearl described above: - at least 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, of ethylcellulose; - at least one first non-volatile liquid oil at 20°C chosen from fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in C10-C26; - at least one second liquid hydrocarbon oil at 20°C chosen from: * ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably in C3-C16; * Hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; castor oil ester; * ester oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms; * as well as their mixtures; - at least one first non-ionic hydrocarbon surfactant chosen from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, or mixtures thereof; - the composition possibly comprising at least one silicone oil, one fluorinated oil, volatile or non-volatile, or mixtures thereof, at a content not exceeding 4% by weight, more particularly not exceeding 2% by weight, and advantageously not exceeding 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. PREPARATION METHOD

[0458] The composition according to the invention can be prepared according to the conventional methods in the field.

[0459] When the composition is anhydrous, liquid or solid, the usual procedure is to mix the oils, waxes and solid fatty compounds at a temperature greater than or equal to the melting point of the solid fats if they are present.

[0460] Generally, if the composition includes solid compounds, the process is carried out at a temperature between 80 and 150°C, preferably between 85 and 130°C.

[0461] If the composition does not include solid compounds, a temperature close to room temperature may be appropriate.

[0462] Once the mixture has been homogenized, the absorbent pigments, the mother-of-pearls, and where applicable, the additional coloring materials, the fillers, are then added under agitation.

[0463] For solid compositions, the mixture is then poured into molds and cooled.

[0464] The solidified compositions are then demolded and packaged.

[0465] For liquid compositions, once the mixture has been cooled if necessary, preferably under stirring, the mixture is packaged in suitable containers.

[0466] When the composition includes at least 5% by weight of water, it is more preferably in the form of a water (which represents the dispersed phase) in oil (which represents the continuous phase) emulsion.

[0467] The classic means can be implemented to prepare such a composition.

[0468] Thus, more specifically, the aqueous phase is prepared on the one hand, and on the other the oily phase of the emulsion is separated, and the two phases thus obtained are brought into contact, under sufficient agitation to obtain a homogeneous composition; the aqueous phase being preferably introduced into the oily phase.

[0469] Usually, when the composition includes it, ethylcellulose is brought into contact with the oils, and possibly the solid compounds if the composition includes them, under agitation, to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

[0470] The surfactants are then added, under stirring, to the resulting mixture.

[0471] The temperature at which the preparation of the oil phase is carried out usually varies between 25 and 110°C, preferably from 70 to 90°C, depending on the nature of the ingredients which compose it.

[0472] Advantageously, when the composition includes ethylcellulose, the preparation of the oil phase takes place at a temperature between 70 and 90°C.

[0473] The preparation of the aqueous phase generally takes place at a temperature between 40 and 90°C.

[0474] Similarly, the mixing of the two phases is carried out more particularly at a temperature below 100°C, by way of example at a temperature less than or equal to 90°C. For example, the emulsion is carried out at a temperature between 40 and 90°C.

[0475] Once the emulsion is homogenized, the filler(s) if the composition includes them are added under agitation, then the pigment with absorbent effect, the nacres, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0476] The temperature at which this last step is carried out is advantageously carried out at a temperature below 50°C.

[0477] It should be noted that if the composition includes additional colouring materials other than the absorbent pigments and nacre described above, these can be added in the aqueous phase or in the lipophilic phase, depending on their nature; or they can be added once the emulsion has been obtained, before, with or after the effect pigments and nacre; or even a combination of these two possibilities.

[0478] The composition is finally packaged in a suitable container.

[0479] The following examples will help to better understand the invention, but are not intended to be limiting.

[0480] Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI name.

[0481] The quantities indicated are as a percentage by weight of raw materials, except unless otherwise stated. EXAMPLES Example 1

[0482] The following composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below: White base:

[0483] [Tables 1] Ingrédients (nom chimique ou non INCI Phase % poids Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (LIPEX 204 FFL, Aar huskarlshamn) A 4,4 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Lipex 102, Aarhuskarl shamn) A 5,2 Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes, Desert Whale) B 1,8 Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina E00168; Keuster Ke unen) B 4,1 Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate (Cosmol 43 V, Nisshin Oillio) A qsp 100% Antioxydant A qs Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter (Iso Jojoba 50; Desert Whale) A 3,0 Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Lusplan DD-DA7 ; Nip pon Fine Chemical) A 7,1 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate (Risocast DA-L, Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo) A 3,6 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (Sunflower Wax; Keuster Keunen) B 2,9 Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate (Plandool G7 ; Nippon Fine Chemical) A 19,1 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Multiceras) B 1,2 Squalane (Neossance Squalane ; Amyris) A 14,5 Cellulose (Cellulobeads D-10 ;Daito Kasei Kogyo) C 8.0;

[0484] Process for preparing the white base: - Mix the remaining ingredients from phase A at a temperature between 95 and 100°C, while stirring. - Once the mixture is homogenized, add phase B while stirring. - When the mixture is homogeneous, add the filler particles and finally the antioxidant. Colourful composition:

[0485] The following compositions are prepared (contents expressed as % by weight)

[0486] [Tables2] Ingrédients (nom chimique ou non INCI Phase Compositions 1 2 3 4 Base blanche préparée précédemment A 85,70 85,70 85,70 85,70 Squalane (Neossance Squalane ; Amyri s) A 11,30 11,30 11,30 11,30 Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxides (and) Tin Oxide (Mirage Glamour Spac e Silver; Eckart) B 0,70 0,40 0,40 0,40 Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide (Timiron Glam Silver; Mer ck) B 1,20 0,40 0,70 0,40 Alumina (and) Iron Oxides (Ronastar Flaming Lights; Merck) B 1,20 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (And) Tita nium Dioxide (And) Red 28 Lake (A nd) Tin Oxide (Intenza ElectricPink ; S un Chemical) B 1,00 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (And) Tita nium Dioxide (And) Yellow 5 Lake (And) Tin Oxide (Intenza Yellow Spar k ; Sun Chemical) B 1,00 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (And) Tita nium Dioxide (And) Red 6 (And) Tin Oxide (Intenza Orange Zest; Sun Ch emical) B 1,05 Titanium Dioxide (And) Synthetic Flu orphlogopite (And) Red 7 Lake (and) Tin Oxide (Intenza Passionate Kiss ;Su n Chemical) B 1.00 0.85 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (And) Titanium Dioxide (And) Iron Oxides (And) Tin Oxide (Syncrystal Ivory; ) B 0.60; Mica (And) Iron Oxides (And) Alum ina (Colorona Passion Orange; Merck) B 0.50 Titanium Dioxide (And) Alumina (And) Silica (And) Tin Oxide (Mirinae Lux A-7009K Gold; CQV) B 0.20 Preparation method:

[0487] - Heat the white base to a temperature between 95 and 100°C, under Stir, and add the squalane. - When the mixture is homogeneous, add the filler particles, the nacres and finally the antioxidant. - Pour the mixture into molds preheated to 42°C. - Place the molds at -25°C until the mold rises to a temperature of 4°C. - Pierce the sticks to unmold and package them in a supported lipstick device (diameter 11.6 mm). Composition evaluation

[0488] [Tables3] Composition 1 2 3 4 Appearance of the stick Homogeneous, flawless, smooth and glossy Color effect G value (protocol description) 7.49 6.47 6.14 6.57 Application Easy, precise application with good glide, without "sweating". Upon application, the formula seems to melt and leave a homogeneous, very comfortable, non-sticky deposit with a nourishing feel. The deposit gives a "wet", luminous, sparkling appearance to the lips Example 2

[0489] The following comparative composition was prepared in which the effect pigment (% by weight) was removed.

[0490] [Tables4] Ingredients (chemical name or not INCI Phase Composition A White base of example 1 A 86.40 Squalane (Neossance Squalane; Amyris) A 11.30 Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide (Timiro n Glam Silver; Merck) B 1.20 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (And) Titanium Dioxide (And) Iron Oxides (And) Tin Oxide (Syncrystal Ivory; Eckart) B 0.60 Mica (And) Iron Oxides (And) Alumina (Colorona Pas s ion Orange; Merck) B 0.50

[0491] Preparation process The composition is prepared as detailed in example 1. Composition evaluation

[0492] [Tables5] Composition A (comparative) Appearance of the stick: Homogeneous, glossy, oily-looking, smooth, without defects. Color effect. G value (protocol description): 4.75. Application: Easy, precise application with good glide, without "pushing." Upon application, the composition seems to melt and leave a homogeneous, very comfortable, non-sticky deposit with a feeling of care. However, a loss of the wet and luminous appearance is observed upon application. Example 3

[0493] The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and their contents are summarized in the table below (% by weight):

[0494] [Tableauxô] Ingrédients (nom chimique ou non INCI) Phase Compositions 5 6 Base blanche de l’exemple 1 A 70,32 74,52 Squalane (Neossance Squalane ; Amyris) A 11,28 11,28 Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Di oxide (and) Iron Oxides (and) Tin Oxide (Mira ge Glamour Space Silver; Eckart) B 6,00 6,00 Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Tin 0 xide (Timiron Glam Silver; Merck) B 10,50 6,00 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (And) Titanium Diox ide (and) Yellow 5 Lake (and) Tin Oxide (Inte nza Yellow Spark ; Sun Chemical) B 1,00 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Diox ide (and) Red 6 (and) Tin Oxide (Intenza Oran ge Zest; Sun Chemical) B 1,06 Titanium Dioxide (and) Synthetic Fluorphlogop ite (and) Red 7 Lake (and) Tin Oxide (Intenza Passionate Kiss ; Sun Chemical) B 0,86 1,00 Titanium Dioxide (and) Alumina (and) Silica ( and) Tin Oxide (Mirinae Lux A-7009K Gold ; CQV) B 0,20

[0495] Procédé de préparation : On prépare les compositions comme détaillé à l’exemple 1. Evaluation of the composition:

[0496] [Tables?] Composition 5 6 Appearance of the stick Homogeneous, flawless, smooth and glossy Color effect G value (protocol description) 5.80 7.73 Application Easy, precise application with good glide, without "pushing". Upon application, the formula seems to melt and leave a homogeneous, very comfortable, non-sticky deposit with a nourishing feel. The deposit gives the lips a "wet" look, more luminous, more shimmery, without a heavy metallic effect. Example 4 We are preparing the following composition:

[0497]

[0498] White base: [Tables8] Ingredients (chemical name or non-chemical name INCI) % by weight Dicaprylyl ether 27.5 Sucrose palmitate (Surfhope SE COSME C-1616. MITSUBISHI Kagaku Foods) 1.6 Sucrose laurate (Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods) 1.6 Glycerin 10.8 Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 PHARM, ASHLAND) 9.3 Water 11.6 Octyldodecanol 32.0 Magnesium sulfate 0.4 Capryloyl glycine 0.5 Citric acid 0.01 Bulk 1.1 Propanediol 3.3 Active ingredients 0.9 Preparation method:

[0499] - Octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether and ethylcellulose are mixed in a The mixture is blended using a Rayneri mixer at 85°C and stirred until homogeneous. Surfactants are then added using a Rayneri mixer until completely dispersed. Simultaneously, the aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, solvents, preservatives, active ingredients, and stabilizers in a Rayneri mixer at 85°C and stirred. - The aqueous phase thus obtained is then slowly added to the first mixture, under agitation in a Rayneri mixer, at around 80°C. - Once the mixture is homogeneous, agitation is maintained while cooling the composition. - Finally, the load is introduced, between 35 and 40°C, under Rayneri stirring and the stirring is maintained until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Colorful composition

[0500] The following colour compositions are prepared (% by weight):

[0501] [Tables9] Compositions Ingredients (chemical name or not INCI) 7 8 9 10 White base prepared above 97.84 92.24 98.44 90.60 Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide (Timiron Glam Silver, Merck) 0.80 0.80 0.16 2.40 Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxides (and) Tin Oxide (M irage Glamor Space Silver; Eckart) 0.40 6.00 0.40 6.00 Silica (and) CI 77891 (Irisa T-06; Joint Color Group) 0.80 0.80 CI 77891 (and) Alumina (and) Silica (and) Tin Oxide (Mirinae A-7409K, CQV) 0.16 0.16 Mica (and) CI 77491 (and) CI 77891 (Cloisonne Orange; Merck) 0.60 0.60 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) CI 77891 (and) CI 15850 (and) Tin Oxide (Intenza Ora nge ZesT; Sun Chemical) 0.40 0.40 Preparation of the colored composition

[0502] The pigments and nacres are incorporated into the white base obtained previously under agitation in the speed mixer (pulse(s) 30 seconds at 1000 rpm / min) until the composition is homogenized. The composition is then packaged in a suitable container. Evaluation of compositions:

[0503] [TableauxlO] Composition 7 8 9 10 Composition Appearance Homogeneous and stable Color effect G value (protocol description) 7.26 12.13 5.49 8.24 Application Easy application in a homogeneous, slightly sticky deposit. The deposit is present, comfortable, providing a feeling of hydration. The deposit gives the lips a "wet" look, with transparency and high luminosity Examples 5

[0504] The following compositions are prepared (% by weight):

[0505] [Tableauxll] Ingrédients (nom chimique ou non INCI) Phase Compositions 11 12 13 Conservateurs B qs qs qs Polybutène (Indopol H 100, Ineos) A 14,0 14,0 14,0 Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 A 18,3 18,3 18,3 Actif D qs qs qs Diisostearyl Malate A 9,9 9,9 9,9 Ethylhexylglycerin A 0,2 0,2 0,2 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate A qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Tridecyl Trimellitate A 10,8 10,8 10,8 Cl8-36 Acid Triglycéride A 20,0 20,0 20,0 Silica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R972, Evoni k) C 8,0 8,0 8,0 Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxides (and) Tin Oxide (( Mirage Glamour Space Silver; Eckart) F 0,48 0,56 0,76 Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide and Tin Oxi de (Timiron Glam Silver; Merck0 F 0,20 0,40 0,24 Antioxydant B qs qs qs Titanium Dioxide (and) Synthetic Fluorphlo gopite (and) Red 7 Lake (and) Tin Oxide (C91-4131 Intenza Passionate Kiss; Sun Chemical) F 0,84 0,84 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Diox ide (and) Red 28 Lake (and) Tin Oxide (C91-4235 Intenza Electric Pink;Sun Chemical) F 0.20 1.76 1.16 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Diox ide (and) Red 6 (and) Tin Oxide (C91-4221 I ntenza Orange Zest; sun Chemical) F 0.80 Red 36 E 0.13 0.11; Preparation process

[0506] All the ingredients of phase A are mixed under agitation until homogenized, then the ingredients of phase B are added, silica, then the active ingredients. Once the mixture is homogenized, the pigments are added and ground (phase E). Finally, the mother-of-pearl is added with gentle stirring to obtain a homogeneous mixture.

[0507] The resulting composition is packaged in a suitable container. Evaluation of compositions:

[0508] [Tables 12] Compositions 11 12 13 Composition Appearance Homogeneous and stable Color effect G value (protocol description) 6.41 7.44 8.30 Application Easy application in a homogeneous, slightly sticky deposit. The deposit gives a "wet" and luminous appearance to the lips while remaining transparent Examples 6

[0509] The following compositions are prepared (% by weight):

[0510] [Tables 13] Ingrédients (nom chimique ou n on INCI) Phase Compositions 14 15 16 17 Conservateurs B qs qs qs qs Polybutène (Indopol H 100, Ineos) A 12,8 12,8 12,6 12,9 Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 A 16,9 16,9 16,6 17,0 Actif D qs qs qs qs Diisostearyl Malate A 9,2 9,2 9,0 9,2 Ethylhexylglycerin A 0,2 0,2 0,2 0,2 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate A qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 Tridecyl Trimellitate A 10,0 10,0 9,8 10,0 Cl8-36 Acid Triglycéride A 18,5 18,6 18,2 18,7 Silica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R9 72, Evonik) C 7,2 7,2 7,0 7,3 Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxides (and) Tin Oxide ((Mirage Glamour Space Silver; Eckart) F 6,00 6,00 6,00 6,00 Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide an d Tin Oxide (Timiron Glam Silver; Merck0 F 2,52 2,40 4,28 1,88 Antioxydant B qs qs qs qs Titanium Dioxide (and) Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Red 7 Lake (and) Tin Oxide (C91-4131 Intenza Passionate Kiss ;Sun Chemical) F 0.84 0.84 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Red 28 Lake (and) Tin Oxide (C91-4235 Intenza El ectric Pink; Sun Chemical) F 0.20 1.76 1.16 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Red 6 (and) Tin Oxide (C91-4221 Intenza Orange Z est; sun Chemical) F 0.80 2.12; Red 36 E 0.13 0.11 Preparation process

[0511] We proceed as in example 5. Evaluation of compositions:

[0512] [Tables 14] Compositions 14 15 16 17 Composition Appearance Homogeneous and stable Color effect G value (protocol description) 8.50 7.56 7.63 10.24 Application Easy application in a homogeneous, slightly sticky deposit. The deposit retains a "wet" and luminous appearance on the lips, with a beautiful shine Example 7

[0513] The following compositions are being prepared:

[0514] [Tables 15] Ingrédients (nom chimique ou non INCI) Phase Compositions C 18 Conservateurs B qs qs Polybutène (Indopol H 100, Ineos) A 14,1 14,0 Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649, Cremer Oleo) A 18,4 18,3 Actif D qs qs Diisostearyl Malate A 9,9 9,9 Ethylhexylglycerin A 0,2 0,2 Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate A 14,4 14,3 Tridecyl Trimellitate A 10,9 10,8 Cl8-36 Acid Triglycéride A 20,2 20,0 Silica Dimethyl Silylate (Aerosil R972, Evonik) C 8,1 8,0 Antioxydant B qs qs Mica (and) Iron Oxides (and) Titanium Dioxide (Cloi sonne Orange 363 C; Sun Chemical) D 0,04 0,02 Alumina (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide (Tim iron Glam Silver, Merck) D 0,24 0,24 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (and) Titanium Dioxide (a nd) Red 6 (and) Tin Oxide (C91-4221 Intenza Orange Zest; sun Chemical) D 2,12 2,12 Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxides (and) Tin Oxide (Mirage Glamour Space Silver; Eckart) D 0,60 Procédé de préparation

[0515] We proceed as in example 5. Evaluation of compositions:

[0516] [Tables 16] Comparative Composition C 18 Composition Appearance Homogeneous and stable Color effect G value (protocol description) 4.41 6.41 Application Easy application in a homogeneous, slightly sticky deposit. The deposit retains a glossy appearance, but without a "wet" effect and with a loss of luminosity once the composition is applied. Easy application in a homogeneous, slightly sticky deposit. The deposit gives a "wet" and luminous appearance to the lips, with a beautiful transparency

Claims

76 Claims

1. Composition for the makeup of human keratinous materials, in particular of the lips, comprising: * at least one pigment with an absorbent effect comprising a substrate in the form of calcium sodium borosilicate platelets and a coating applied to the substrate, comprising titanium, iron and tin, the coating comprising a) optionally a layer 1 comprising or consisting of at least one tin oxide, tin hydroxide and / or hydrated tin oxide, b) a layer 2 comprising at least one metal oxide, metal hydroxide and / or hydrated metal oxide and c) a layer 3 comprising at least one metal oxide, metal hydroxide and / or hydrated metal oxide; at least one of layers 2 and 3 comprising at least two different metal ions, selected from titanium, iron, tin, and mixtures thereof; layers 2 and 3 being interrupted by at least one spacer layer;* at least one mother-of-pearl composed of aluminium oxide, titanium oxide and possibly tin oxide, in a content of less than 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; * at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or non-polar, or silicone-based.

2. Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the effect pigment is such that the spacer layer(s) are arranged essentially parallel to the surface of the substrate in the form of platelets.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the effect pigment is such that the spacing layer(s) have an average height ha within a range of 5 nm to 120 nm.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the effect pigment is such that the spacing layer or layers comprise connections and cavities.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the effect pigment is such that the spacing layer(s) have a network density < 85%.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the effect pigment has the following INCI name: Calcium Borosilicate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Iron Oxide (and) Tin Oxide.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the effect pigment is present at a content of 0.1 to 8% by weight, preferably 0.4 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nacre has an average equivalent diameter (D50) in volume of between 15 and 30 pm, preferably from 15 to 25 pm.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that nacre is present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 11.5% by weight, preferably from 0.15 to 11% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15 to 10.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s), polar or non-polar, or silicone oil(s), represents 10 to 70% by weight, more particularly 15 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is selected from non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular squalane, paraffin oil, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, and mixtures thereof, and preferably squalane.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is selected from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils such as ester oils comprising one or more ester functions, optionally hydroxylated, and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, or aromatic, the total number of carbon atoms being at least 12, and mixtures thereof; ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, whether identical or not, the R, R' groups represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably in C3-Ci6; and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is selected from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils such as vegetable oils; ester oils, other than vegetable oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, comprising at least one hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated or aromatic, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably at least 8 carbon atoms; polyesters obtained from the esterification of a polyol, at least one monocarboxylic acid and at least one dicarboxylic acid; liquid polyesters obtained from the reaction of a dimer of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid, the fatty acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms;Carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, whether identical or not, the R, R' groups represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, preferably in C3-C16; and mixtures thereof; preferably from: - vegetable oils; - triesters such as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, in C4-C36, more particularly in C8-C20, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; - tetraesters such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate;- Liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms with at least one alcohol dimer (diol dimer), preferably saturated, the alcohol comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as compounds with the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; - dicaprylyl carbonate; - mixtures thereof.

14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is selected from C26-Cl fatty alcohols, preferably monohydroxylated, such as, in particular, lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecylic alcohol, alcohol isocetyl, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably octyldodecanol.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is selected from non-volatile silicone oils, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one alkyl group in C2-C24, and mixtures thereof; non-volatile phenyl silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, such as the oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and mixtures thereof; non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, devoid of dimethicone fragment(s), such as in particular the oils with the following INCI names: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one wax, preferably selected from polar hydrocarbon waxes, in particular selected from hydrocarbon waxes of the ester wax type, of the alcohol wax type, or mixtures thereof, and preferably at least one ester wax, selected from: i) waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains of which the number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom in particular oxygen, and whose melting point temperature varies from 45 to 120°C, preferably a C2o-C4o alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate or a C2o-C4o alkyl stearate;(ii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(OCO-R4-COOR5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group and may or may not contain one or more unsaturations; (iii) waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as sunflower wax, mimosa wax, beeswax, synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, wax of; sugar cane, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, refined or unrefined, and mixtures thereof; iv) waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil; v) polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; preferably polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba wax, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or unhydrogenated, polyoxyethenated or polyoxypropylenated, such as PEG-30 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin; PPG-5 Lanolin Wax Glyceride;polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular Polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, esters from the reaction of vegetable waxes Acacia Decurrens Flower wax, Jojoba Esters, Sunflower Seed Wax and Polyglyceryl-3, and mixtures thereof; vi) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated Ci6-C30 carboxylic acid, possibly hydroxylated, with glycerol, preferably the compounds with the following INCI names: Trihydroxystearin, Tristearin, Tribehenin, and mixtures thereof; vii) mixtures thereof.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition may comprise at least one hydrocarbon compound solid at 20°C other than waxes, selected from: * the compounds with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Diinoleate, mixtures thereof; * vegetable butters such as, for example, mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, mixtures thereof; - the compounds with the INCI names Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides, mixtures thereof; - the compound with the INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, - mixtures thereof; and preferably selected from the compounds with the following INCI names: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate; Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Diinoleate, mixtures thereof; mango butter, shea butter, cupuacu butter, murumuru butter, cocoa butter, jojoba butter, mixtures thereof; Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2; mixtures thereof.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises ethylcellulose, preferably at a content of at least 8% by weight, more particularly between 8 and 17% by weight, more particularly between 10 and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one mineral or organic filler; in particular at least one mineral filler selected from silica, perlite, calcium magnesium carbonate, kaolin, talc, diatomaceous earth, natural or synthetic mica, boron nitride, glass or ceramic, and mixtures thereof; at least one organic filler, selected from micronized waxes, metallic soaps, polysaccharides, cellulose, N-acylated amino acids, or mixtures thereof; preferably cellulose.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one thickener selected from silicas, preferably treated hydrophobically; lipophilic clays, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably silicas, preferably treated hydrophobically.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition may comprise at least one colouring material other than the absorbent pigment, nacre consisting of aluminium oxide, titanium oxide and optionally tin oxide, selected powdered colouring materials, in particular from pigments, as well as mixtures thereof.

22. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains less than 2% by weight of water, preferably less than 1% of water and advantageously less than 0.5% in weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably, the composition is free of water.

23. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that it contains water in a content of 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

25. Composition according to any one of claims 23 or 24, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one hydrocarbon nonionic surfactant selected from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, or mixtures thereof; preferably selected from sucrose esters, and in particular sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate, alone or in mixtures, and preferably from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in a solid form.

27. ​​A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25, characterized in that it is in liquid form

28. A method for making up human keratinous materials, in particular lips, consisting of applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.