Oil-in-water emulsion free of cyclic volatile silicone oil and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, comprising a mixture of specific fatty acid esters, a non-cyclic silicone oil, a hydrophobic silica aerogel, and a pigment
The water-in-oil emulsion with specific fatty acid esters, non-cyclic silicone oil, and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles addresses the limitations of existing compositions by enhancing skin coverage and homogeneity without cyclic volatile silicone oil or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ensuring comfort and preventing transfer.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-17
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-19
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions, particularly water-in-oil emulsions, fail to provide adequate coverage and homogeneity on the skin while maintaining comfort and preventing skin tightness and transfer, often containing cyclic volatile silicone oil and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
A water-in-oil emulsion composition comprising a mixture of fatty acid esters, non-cyclic silicone oil, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and a silicone emulsifying surfactant with HLB < 8.0, without cyclic volatile silicone oil or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, to enhance coverage, homogeneity, and comfort on the skin.
The composition achieves improved skin coverage and homogeneity, reduces skin tightness, and prevents transfer, providing a more comfortable and effective cosmetic experience.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Oil-in-water emulsion without cyclic volatile silicone oil and without ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate comprising a mixture of specific fatty acid esters, a non-cyclic silicone oil, a hydrophobic silica aerogel, and a pigment. Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of skincare and / or makeup of keratinous materials, and aims to provide compositions more particularly dedicated to skincare and / or makeup.
[0002] The skin is not a smooth, uniformly colored surface and has raised areas and micro-reliefs such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, blemishes, scars, and dry patches, which form a somewhat bumpy surface. Quite often, this surface, with its irregularities, forms a pleasing whole, but the irregularities are such that sometimes the surface is considered unsightly.
[0003] Cosmetic makeup and / or skincare compositions are commonly used to camouflage, smooth, and / or even out skin surface imperfections such as pores, wrinkles, fine lines, and / or scars. In this regard, numerous formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or non-anhydrous, have been developed to date.
[0004] The application of a makeup composition such as a foundation is the most effective approach to beautifying uneven skin by making it possible to hide spots and dyschromia, to reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and to mask pimples and traces of acne; in this regard, coverage is one of the main properties sought.
[0005] Water-in-oil emulsions are galenic forms that are highly sought after for their ease of application to the skin and their sensory appeal in cosmetics, particularly in the field of skincare, in sun compositions, in anti-aging compositions and in makeup such as foundations.
[0006] Emulsions can be defined as heterogeneous systems comprising at least two immiscible liquid phases, or phases exhibiting very low miscibility between them. In these systems, one of the phases is dispersed in the form of fine droplets within the other phase, so as to result in a macroscopically homogeneous mixture visible to the naked eye. Typically, cosmetic formulators use emulsified systems combining an aqueous phase for freshness and an oily phase for comfort. They allow for the combination, within the same composition, of cosmetic ingredients or active ingredients. possessing distinct affinities with respect to these two aqueous and oily phases, which are not miscible at room temperature.
[0007] Inverse emulsion type compositions (water-in-oil emulsion, the aqueous phase being in a dispersed form in the continuous oil phase) have many advantages, with regard to the good level of coverage and the homogeneous appearance they provide compared to direct emulsions (oil-in-water emulsions).
[0008] The product has already been offered on the foundation market Giorgio Armani Power Fabric+ Ultra Longwear Weightless Matte Foundation SPF 20 with the following ingredient list CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, AQUA (WATER), DIMETHICONE, VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER, ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE, PROPANEDIOL, ALCOHOL DENAT., BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE,SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE, PHENOXYETHANOL, MAGNESIUM SULFATE, DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE), DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, SILICA SILYLATE,SILICA, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, BENZYL SALICYLATE, HEXYL CINNAMAL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, BHT, LIMONENE, LINALOOL, PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DLT-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE, TOCOPHEROL, + / - MAY CONTAIN(CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), IRON OXIDES (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499)).
[0009] In the course of its work, the applicant sought to further improve the coverage on the skin provided by this type of formulation, as well as the homogeneity of the composition. It also sought to further improve comfort, in particular to reduce or even eliminate any feeling of tightness of the skin during the day, as well as to prevent transfer.
[0010] Unexpectedly, the inventors found that it is possible to achieve these objectives with a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular, skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising (i) a mixture of fatty acid and alcohol ester comprising DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE and ITSOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE; and (ii) at least one non-cyclic silicone oil; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; and
[0011] c) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and
[0012] d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with an HLB < 8.0; and e) at least one powdered colouring material said composition not containing cyclic volatile silicone oil or Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate.
[0013] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention
[0014] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular, skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising (i) a mixture of fatty acid and alcohol ester comprising DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE and ISOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE; and (ii) at least one non-cyclic silicone oil; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; and
[0015] c) at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and
[0016] d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with an HLB < 8.0; and e) at least one powdered colouring material said composition not containing cyclic volatile silicone oil or Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate.
[0017] A second object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic coating process, in particular for making up keratinous materials, in particular the skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, comprising at least: the step of applying the composition, a composition as defined above on said keratinous materials. Definitions
[0018] In the context of the present invention, "keratinous material" means, in particular, skin such as the face, body, hands, cheeks, eyelids, and the contour of the eyes.
[0019] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.
[0020] By water-in-oil emulsion is meant a composition comprising an immiscible oil phase and an aqueous phase; the aqueous phase being dispersed under droplet form in the oily phase (called continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.
[0021] By "composition without cyclic volatile silicone oil" is meant any composition comprising less than 1.0% by weight of cyclic volatile silicone oil, or less than 0.5% by weight, or less than 0.1% by weight relative to the weight, to the total weight of the composition or even free of volatile silicone oil.
[0022] By "composition without Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate" means any composition comprising less than 1.0% by weight of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight relative to the weight, to the total weight of the composition or even free of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate.
[0023] By oil, we mean a fatty organic substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm of Hg or 105Pa).
[0024] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
[0025] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104). Oily phase
[0026] A cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a continuous oily phase containing (i) a mixture of fatty acid and alcohol ester comprising DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE and ISOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE; and (ii) at least one non-cyclic silicone oil.
[0027] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 °C) and atmospheric pressure.
[0028] A composition of the invention may include an oily phase in a content varying from 25 to 85%, in particular from 30 to 55%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. a. Mixture of fatty acid ester and alcohol.#
[0029] The continuous oily phase of the composition of the invention contains (i) a mixture of fatty acid ester and alcohol comprising DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE and ISOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE
[0030] Preferably, DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] Preferably, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE is present in the composition in a content varying from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0032] Preferably, ISOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-cyclic silicone oils (ii)
[0033] According to the invention, the non-cyclic silicone oil is preferably chosen from: volatile non-cyclic silicones non-volatile phenyl silicones; their mixtures.
[0034] According to a preferred form, the non-cyclic silicone oil or oils are present at levels ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 15 to 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0035] Volatile non-cyclic silicone oils Volatile non-cyclic silicones are chosen, preferably from - linear silicones of formula (I): [Chem 1]: R3SiO-( R2SiO)n-SiR3(I) in which R, whether identical or different, designates: - a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more fluorine atoms or by one or more hydroxyl groups, or - a hydroxyl group, one of the radicals R being a phenyl group, n is an integer from 0 to 8, preferably from 2 to 6, and better from 3 to 5;; the silicone compound of formula (I) containing at most 15 carbon atoms; - the following branched silicones of formula (II) or (III): [Chem 2] R3SiO-[(R3SiO)RSiO]-(R2SiO)x-SiR3(II) or [Chem 3] [R3SiO]4Si (III) in which R, whether identical or different, designates: - a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by one or more fluorine atoms or by one or more hydroxyl groups, or - a hydroxyl group, one of the R radicals being a phenyl group, x is an integer from 0 to 8, the silicone compound of formula (II) or (III) containing at most 15 carbon atoms.
[0036] Preferably, for compounds of formulas (I), (II), (III), the ratio between the number of carbon atoms and the number of silicon atoms is between 2.25 and 4.33.
[0037] Silicones of formulas (I) to (III) can be prepared according to known processes of the synthesis of silicone compounds.
[0038] Examples of non-cyclic volatile silicone usable according to the invention are indicated below; these silicones can be used alone or in mixtures.
[0039] Among the silicones of formula (I), the following may be mentioned: a) the following disiloxanes (L2): hexamethyldisiloxane, notably sold under the name DC 200 FLUID® 0.65, is by the company DOW CORNING the l,3-di-tert-butyl-l,l,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,3-dipropyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; heptyl pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-trimethyl disiloxane; hexaethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl l,3-bis(2-methylpropyl) disiloxane; pentamethyl octyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-trimethyl 3,3,3-tris (1-methyl ethyl) disiloxane; 1-butyl 3-ethyl 1,1,3-trimethyl 3-propyl disiloxane; pentamethyl pentyl disiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl 3-(l-methyl ethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl l,3-bis( 1-methyl propyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3-triethyl 1,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; (3,3-dimethylbutyl)pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methyl butyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methyl pentyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3-dimethyl 3-propyl disiloxane; 1-(1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,3,3,3-pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-trimethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl l,l,3,3-tetrakis(l-methyl ethyl) disiloxane; 1,1-dibutyl 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl l,3-bis(l-methyl ethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-bis(l-methyl ethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-dipropyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl l,3-bis(3-methyl butyl) disiloxane; butyl pentamethyl disiloxane; pentaethyl methyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl 1,3-dipentyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl 1,1,3,3-tetrapropyl disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetraethyl 3,3-dimethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dibutyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; hexyl pentamethyl disiloxane; b) the following trisiloxanes (L3): octamethyltrisiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID ICS® by DOW CORNING; 3-pentyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1-hexyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-heptamethyl 5-octyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-octyl trisiloxane, notably sold under the name "SILSOFT 034®" by the company OSI; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-hexyl trisiloxane, notably sold under the name "DC 2-1731®" by the company DOW CORNING; 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl 1,5-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3-(l-ethylbutyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(l-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,5-diethyl 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(l-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 3-(l,l-dimethylethyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3,3-bis(l-methylethyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl l,5-bis(l-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; the l,5-bis(l,l-dimethyl ethyl)-l,l,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl trisiloxane; 3-(3,3-dimethyl butyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(3-methylbutyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(3-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-(2-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl 3-propyl trisiloxane; 3-isohexyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,3,5-triethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentamethyl trisiloxane; 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 3-tert-pentyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3,3-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl trisiloxane; 1,5-dibutyl 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexaethyl 3,3-dimethyl trisiloxane; 3,3-dibutyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl trisiloxane; 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 3-heptyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1-ethyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; c) the following tetrasiloxanes (L4): decamethyltetrasiloxane; 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-octamethyl 1,7-dipropyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl 5-(l-methylethyl) tetrasiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl tetrasiloxane; 3,5-diethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,3,5,7-tetraethyl 1,1,3,5,7,7-hexamethyl tetrasiloxane; 3,3,5,5-tetraethyl 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-nonamethyl 7-phenyl tetrasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; the l,l,l,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl-5-phenyl tetrasiloxane; d) the following pentasiloxanes (L5): THE; the l,l,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9-decamethyl-l,9-dipropyl pentasiloxane; 3,3,5,5,7,7-hexaethyl-l,l,l,9,9,9-hexamethyl pentasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethyl 5-phenyl pentasiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethyl pentasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-decamethyl pentasiloxane; 1,3,5,7,9-pentaethyl 1,1,3,5,7,9,9-heptamethyl pentasiloxane; 3,5,7-triethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl pentasiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl pentasiloxane; e) the following hexasiloxanes (L6): 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11,11,11-tridecamethyl hexasiloxane; 3,5,7,9-tetraethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,11,11,11-decamethyl hexasiloxane; tetradecamethyl hexasiloxane; f) hexadecamethyl heptasiloxane (L7); g) octadecamethyl octasiloxane (L8).
[0040] Among the silicones of formula (II), the following may be mentioned: a) the following tetrasiloxanes (L4): 2-[3,3,3-trimethyl l,l-bis[(trimethylsylil)oxy]disiloxanyl] ethyl; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-(2-methylpropyl) 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 3-(l,l-dimethylethyl) 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 3-butyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-propyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 3-ethyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,5,5,5-tetramethyl 3-(trimethylsiloxy)trisiloxane; 3-methyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 3-[(dimethylphenylsilyl)oxy] 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-(2-methylpentyl) 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-(4-methylpentyl)-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]trisiloxane; 3-hexyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; the l,l,l,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane; b) the following pentasiloxanes (L5): 1,1,1,3,5,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl 3-(trimethylsiloxy)tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,7,7,7-octamethyl 5-phenyl 5-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane; c) the following heptasiloxane (L7): the 1,1,1,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11,11,1 l-tridecamethyl-3- [(trimethylsilyl)oxy] hexasiloxane.
[0041] Among silicones of formula (III), the following may be mentioned: 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamthyl 3,3-bis (trimethylsiloxy) trisiloxane.
[0042] Other volatile silicone oils may also be used, selected from: a) the following tetrasiloxanes (L4): 2,2,8,8-tetramethyl-5-[(pentamethyldisiloxanyl)methyl]-3,7-dioxa-2,8-disilanonane; 2,2,5,8,8-pentamethyl 5-[(trimethylsilyl)methoxy] 4,6-dioxa-2,5,8-trisilanonane; 1,3-dimethyl l,3-bis[(trimethylsilyl)methyl] 1,3-disiloxanediol; 3-ethyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3-[3-(trimethylsiloxy)propyl] trisiloxane; the l,l,l,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3-phenyl-3-[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] trisiloxane (Dow 556 Fluid®); b) the following pentasiloxanes (L5): 2,2,7,7,9,9,11,11,16,16-decamethyl 3,8,10,15-tetraoxa-2,7,9,ll,16-pentasilaheptadecane; tetrakis[(trimethylsilyl)methyl] silicic acid ester; c) the following hexasiloxanes (L6): 3,5-diethyl 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl 3,5-bis[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane, 1,1,1,3,5,7,7,7-octamethyl 3,5-bis[(trimethylilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane; d) 1' heptasiloxane (L7) following: 1,1,1,3,7,7,7-heptamethyl 3,5,5-tris[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] tetrasiloxane; e) the following octasiloxanes (L8): the l,l,l,3,5,5,9,9,9-nonamethyl-3,7,7-tris[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]pentasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethyl 3,5,7- tris[(trimethylsilyl)oxy] pentasiloxane; 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyl 3,3,5,5-tetrakis[(trimethylsilyl)oxy]tetrasiloxane.
[0043] Preferably, the non-cyclic volatile silicone oils according to the invention have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 0.5 to 8 centistokes (from 0.5 to 8 mm2 / s).
[0044] The viscosity measurement method used in the invention to characterize silicone oils according to the invention can be the "kinematic viscosity at 25°C raw product CID-012-01", or the "Viscosity Ubbelohde DIN 51562-1 PV04001 25 °C".
[0045] According to a preferred form, the non-cyclic volatile silicone oil or oils are present at levels ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 10 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 15 to 25% relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] Among the non-cyclic volatile silicone oils according to the invention, linear non-cyclic volatile silicone oils will be chosen in particular, and more specifically: - octamethyltrisiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID ICS by the company DOW CORNING; - Decamethyltetrasiloxane, notably sold under the name XIAMETER PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 1.5CS® by the company DOW CORNIN - dodecamethylpentasiloxane such as the commercial products sold under the names KF-96L-2CS®, DM-FLUID-2CS® by Shin Etsu; BERB- DM2® by BRB International or SILICONE FLUID 2CS® by Dow Corning; - their mixtures, and more specifically dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Non-volatile phenylated silicone oils
[0047] The expression "phenylated silicone oil" or "phenylsilicone oil" refers to a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.
[0048] These phenyl silicone oils can be chosen from those also possessing at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those not possessing one.
[0049] According to the invention, a dimethicone fragment corresponds to the following motif: -Si(CH3)2-O-,
[0050] According to a preferred form, the non-volatile non-cyclic phenylated silicone oil or oils are present at levels ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil or oils may be selected from phenyl silicone oils having or not having a dimethicone fragment and corresponding to the following formula (IV): [Chem 4] R IRR R ■—If -----O | | IIR—Si-----O---Si------R RRI | J t R R—Si------G R (IV) in which the R groups, monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl group, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl group. Preferably, in this formula, the phenylsiliconized oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five, or at least six.
[0052] The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil or oils may be selected from phenyl silicone oils having or not having a dimethicone fragment and corresponding to the following formula (V): [Chem 5] RRR III R---Si.-----O----Si-----O-----Si------R III R. RR (V) in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl.
[0053] Preferably, in this formula, the compound of formula (V) comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
[0054] Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds previously described may be used.
[0055] Examples that can be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.
[0056] Among the compounds of formula (V), we can mention more particularly the phenylsilicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (III) in which at least 4 or at least 5 R radicals represent a phenyl radical the remaining radicals representing methyls.
[0057] Such non-volatile phenylsiliconized oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. In particular, they are marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI® or DOW CORNING 555 COSMETIC FLUID® (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 554 COSMETIC FLUID® by Dow Corning may also be used.
[0058] They correspond in particular to the following formulas (VA) or (VB): Ph Ph Ph (VA) III. Me—Si —□ -Si - O—Si -Me AA Ph Me Ph Me Ph Me (VB) III Ph—Si—O—Si-O—Sf-Pn A \ \ Me Ph Me in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl.
[0059] The non-volatile phenylened oil or silicones may be chosen from phenylsiliconized oils having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to the following formula (VI): [Chem 6] (VI) in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents -CH2-CH(CH3)(Ph).
[0060] The non-volatile phenylened oil or silicones may be chosen from the phenylsiliconized oils corresponding to formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof: [Chem 7] (VII) in which: - Rià Rio, independently of each other, are hydrocarbon radicals in Cl-C3O, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and
[0061] Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.
[0062] Preferably, R^ R10, independently of each other, represent a C1-C30 alkyl radical, linear or branched, preferably C1-C20, more particularly C1-C16, or a C6-C14 aryl radical and in particular C10-C13, monocyclic or polycyclic, or an aralkyl radical preferably whose alkyl part is Cl-C3.
[0063] Preferably, R1 to RiOpeuvent each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. Ri to RiOpeuvent in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical.
[0064] According to a first, more particular embodiment of formula (VII), examples include phenylsiliconized oils having or not having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof: [Chem 8] (VIII) in which: - Ri to R6, independently of each other, are C1-C30 saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radicals, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, an aryl radical, preferably C6-C14, or an aralkyl radical whose alkyl part is C1-C3. - m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
[0065] Preferably, Rià R6, independently of each other, represent an alkyl radical, in C1-C30, preferably in C1-C20, in particular in Cl-Cl6, or an aryl radical in C6-C14 monocyclic (preferably in C6) or polycyclic and in particular in C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is in C6; the alkyl part is in C1-C3).
[0066] Preferably, Ri to R6 can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
[0067] Ri to R6 may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 may be applied, in formula (VIII).
[0068] According to a particular embodiment, the non-volatile phenylated silicone oil is chosen from among the phenylated silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment.
[0069] Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VIII) in which m=0 and n and p are independently of each other, integers between 1 and 100.
[0070] Preferably RI to R6 are methyl radicals.
[0071] According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyldimethicone such as KF-54® from Shin Etsu, KF54HV® from Shin Etsu, KF-50-300CS® from Shin Etsu, KF-53® from Shin Etsu, KF-50-100CS® from Shin Etsu.
[0072] Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VIII) in which p is between 1 and 100, the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, and n=0. According to another, more particular embodiment of formula (VII), we can cite those corresponding to formula (IX) below and their mixtures: [Chem 9] (IX) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a -OSiMe3 group and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000; m and p are such that compound (IX) is a non-volatile oil.
[0073] According to a first embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000, m is more particularly such that compound (IX) is a non-volatile oil. For example, trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone, marketed in particular under the reference BELSIL PDM 1000® by Wacker, may be used.
[0074] According to a second embodiment of non-volatile phenyl silicone not having a dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0, m is between 1 and 1000, such that compound (IX) is a non-volatile oil
[0075] For example, phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, INCI name PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, marketed in particular under the reference DOW CORNING 556® COSMETIC GRADE FLUID (DC556) or DOWSIL SH 556 FLUID® by DOW, may be used.
[0076] According to another more particular embodiment of formula (VII), phenylsiliconized oils corresponding to formula (X) below, and mixtures thereof, may be cited: [Chem 10] (X) in which: - R, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated Cl-C30 hydrocarbon radical, linear, cyclic or branched, preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched; more particularly R represent a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical, preferably C6-C14, or an aralkyl radical whose alkyl part is C1-C3; - m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
[0077] Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, and in particular a C1-C20, in particular a Cl-Cl 6, a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C14 aryl radical, and in particular a C10-C13, or an aralkyl radical, preferably the aryl part is at C6 and the alkyl part is at Cl-C3.
[0078] Preferably, the Rs can each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
[0079] The Rs may in particular be identical, and furthermore may be a methyl radical.
[0080] Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (X).
[0081] According to a preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, provided that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (X). Preferably R is a methyl radical.
[0082] According to one embodiment, a phenylsiliconized oil of formula (X) having a viscosity at 25°C between 5 and 1500 mm2 / s (i.e., from 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably having a viscosity between 5 and 1000 mm2 / s (i.e., 5 to 1000 cSt) can be used.
[0083] According to this embodiment, the non-volatile phenylsiliconized oil is preferably chosen from phenyltrimethicones (when n=0) such as Dow Corning DC556® (22.5 cSt), or from diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as Shin Etsu KF56 A®, or Rhône-Poulenc SILBIONE 70663V30® (28 cSt). The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25 °C.
[0084] The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil or oils may be selected from the phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (XI) below, and mixtures thereof: in which: RI, R2, R5 and R6 are, whether identical or not, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 and R4 are, whether identical or not, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C6-C14), provided that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical, or a vinyl radical. n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil an average molecular mass by weight less than 200,000 g / mol, preferably less than 150,000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol.
[0085] Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, INCI name PHENYL TRIMETHICONE, marketed in particular under the reference DOW CORNING 556® COSMETIC GRADE FLUID (DC556) or DOWSIL SH 556 FLUID® by DOW, will be used in particular.
[0086] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the continuous oily phase of the composition of the invention comprises at least one linear volatile silicone oil such as those defined above and at least one non-volatile phenylated silicone oil such as those defined above.
[0087] More specifically, a mixture of dodecamethylpentasiloxane and phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane will be used. Aqueous phase
[0088] The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally ingredients soluble or miscible in water such as water-soluble organic solvents.
[0089] Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, we can mention in particular lower monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
[0090] A suitable water for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water.
[0091] Water suitable for the invention can also be demineralized water.
[0092] A composition of the invention may comprise water in a content varying from 20 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 30 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Hydrophobic silica aerogel
[0093] The composition of the invention contains at least hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
[0094] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
[0095] They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.
[0096] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) of 1 to 1500 pm, better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 100 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, preferably still 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 20 pm and even better 5 to 15 pm.
[0097] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered.
[0098] The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern Master Sizer 2000®. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0099] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0100] The silica aerogel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density r ranging from 0.02 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.03 to 0.08 g / cm3, in particular ranging from 0.05 to 0.08 g / cm3.
[0101] Within the framework of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the packed density protocol: Forty grams of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; the cylinder is then placed on the Stampf Volumeter STAV 2003® apparatus; the cylinder is then subjected to a series of 2500 compactions (this operation is repeated until the volume difference between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); the final volume Vf of compacted powder is then measured directly on the cylinder. The compacted density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and m in g).
[0102] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.
[0103] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: SV = SM xr where r is the packed density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.
[0104] Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better from 8 to 12 ml / g.
[0105] The absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste.
[0106] It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining oil absorption from powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the Quantity of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added drop by drop. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, the mixture is stirred with a spatula, and oil is continued to be added until clumps of oil and powder form. From this point on, the oil is added one drop at a time, and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste should spread easily on the glass plate without cracking or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then recorded. The oil absorption corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.
[0107] The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE).
[0108] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated by silylation agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
[0109] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.
[0110] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used, preferably of INCI name SILICA SILYLATE.
[0111] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, one can cite, for example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: SILICA SILYLATE), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0112] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201®, Aerogel TLD 203®, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1100®, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200®.
[0113] Preferably, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name SILICA SILYLATE), by the company Dow Corning, will be used, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.
[0114] Silica aerogel particles, in particular silylated silica aerogel, may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 7 %, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Silicone emulsifying surfactants
[0115] The composition of the invention contains at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.0.
[0116] For the purposes of the present invention, an emulsifying surfactant is understood to be an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is, one having two parts of different polarities. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) value, the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. The term HLB is well known and is described, for example, in *The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection* (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB is less than or equal to 8.0 for the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DA VIES method.
[0117] For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone emulsifying surfactant" means a polyorganosilioxane comprising in its structure at least one hydrophilic chain, in particular at least one polyoxyalkylened (i.e. polyoxyethlene and / or polyoxypropylated) chain or one polyglycerolated chain.
[0118] The silicone emulsifying surfactant or surfactants is (are) preferably present in the composition at levels ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0119] Among silicone emulsifying surfactants with an HLB < 8, examples include dimethicone copolyols such as the one with the INCI name DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE sold under the brand name X-22-6711D® by SHIN ETSU, alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Cetyl Dimethicone copolyol like CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90® by Evonik, and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09® by EVONIK, with the INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE (AND) CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE (AND) HEXYL LAURATE.
[0120] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises water less a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and more particularly a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and POLYGLYCERY-4 ISOSTEARATE.
[0121] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsifying surfactant can be chosen from emulsifying silicone elastomers.
[0122] The term "silicone elastomer" refers to a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties, particularly the consistency of a sponge or a soft sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape after stretching.
[0123] The emulsifying silicone elastomer can be selected from polyoxyalkylated silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. Polyoxyalkylated silicone elastomers
[0124] The polyoxyalkylated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane that can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and a polyoxyalkylated having at least two ethylenic unsaturation groups.
[0125] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by addition crosslinking reaction (Al) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (Bl) of polyoxyalkylated having at least two ethylenic unsaturation groups, in particular in the presence (Cl) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in patents US5236986 and US5412004.
[0126] In particular, organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0127] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (Al) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
[0128] The compound (Al) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane copolymers.
[0129] The compound (Cl) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.
[0130] Advantageously, polyoxyalkylated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinylic compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylated ones having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.
[0131] The polyoxyalkylated silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylated elastomer may be in the form of non-spherical particles.
[0132] Polyoxyalkylated elastomers are described in particular in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793, US5811487.
[0133] As polyoxyalkylated silicone elastomers, the following INCI names may be used: Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15 -Cro spoly mer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer, and their mixtures.
[0134] They are marketed in particular under the name KSG® by the company Shin Etsu “KSG-210®” (INCI Name: Dimethicone and Dimethicone / PEG-10 / 15-Crosspolymer “KSG-310®” INCI Name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Ore oil; “KSG-320®” INCI Name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Isododecane; “KSG-330®” INCI Name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Triethylhexanoin; "KSG-340®" INCI Name: Squalane (and) PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
[0135] We can also mention the product sold under the name Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend ® by the company DOW CORNING for the compound with INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer. Polyglycerol silicone elastomers
[0136] Polyglycerol silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer that can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and polyglycerol compounds having ethylenic unsaturation groups, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0137] Preferably, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition crosslinking reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon, and (B) of glycerol compounds having at least two ethylenic unsaturation groups, in particular in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.
[0138] In particular, organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerol compound and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0139] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
[0140] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.
[0141] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, including a linear chain structure or a branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
[0142] The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 °C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).
[0143] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl, stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is selected from among the methyl, phenyl, and lauryl groups.
[0144] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane copolymers.
[0145] Compound (B) may be a polyglycerol compound corresponding to the following formula (B1): CmH2m lO-[ Gly ]n-CmH2ml(B') in which m is an integer from 2 to 6, n is an integer from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, preferably n from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and preferably from 2 to 5, and in particular equal to 3; Gly denotes: -ch2-CH(OH)-CH2-O- or -CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O-
[0146] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4.
[0147] It is advantageous that compound (A) be added in such an amount that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenic unsaturating groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1 / 1 to 20 / 1.
[0148] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.
[0149] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal for 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
[0150] The polyglycerol silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerol elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
[0151] Such elastomers are described in particular in patent application WO2004 / 024798.
[0152] As polyglycerol silicone elastomers, the following compounds with INCI names may be used: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin- 3 Cro spolymer, Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, and their mixtures.
[0153] They are notably sold by the company Shin Etsu under the following names: “KSG-710®”; INCI name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer and Dimethicone “KSG-810®”; INCI name: Ore Oil and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; “KSG-820®”; INCI name: Isododecane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; “KSG-830®”; INCI name: Triethylhexanoin and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; “KSG-840®”; INCI name: Squalane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer. Powdered coloring matter
[0154] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one powdered coloring material.
[0155] Powdered colouring materials can be selected from colour pigments, nacres, optical effect pigments and mixtures thereof.
[0156] The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit.
[0157] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0158] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 mixed with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.
[0159] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.
[0160] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D
[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 10 qm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 qm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 qm.
[0161] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, specifically the Malvern MasterSizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution across a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0162] D
[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.
[0163] In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof. By way of example, titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example, marketed under the reference NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.
[0164] As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, nacres can also be mentioned.
[0165] By “mother-of-pearl”, one must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
[0166] The nacres can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also consist of mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.
[0167] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
[0168] We can also cite, as an example of nacres, natural mica covered with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.
[0169] Mother-of-pearl may in particular have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper colour or reflection.
[0170] Among the pigments usable according to the invention, one can also mention those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say, unified and stabilized such as that produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of any color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.
[0171] For example, this material can be chosen from metallic-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.
[0172] According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
[0173] According to another particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated by at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
[0174] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. Insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they exhibit a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then carry them.
[0175] The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
[0176] For the purposes of the invention, "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally means the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
[0177] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.
[0178] The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
[0179] According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.
[0180] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular of 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.
[0181] The coating can be achieved for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant to the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing under agitation of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or skincare composition.
[0182] The coating can be achieved, for example, by a chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and the creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.
[0183] Chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
[0184] When the pigment includes a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.
[0185] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; waxes natural plant or animal; synthetic polar waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.
[0186] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
[0187] According to a particular mode, the colouring material is an organic, synthetic, natural or naturally derived pigment.
[0188] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
[0189] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in French patent FR 2 679 771.
[0190] The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.
[0191] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
[0192] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
[0193] Among organic colorants, cochineal carmine may be mentioned. Other products known under the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Bine 1 (CI 42 090).
[0194] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).
[0195] Preferably, the powdered colorant(s) is / are present in the composition at a concentration of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyol(s)
[0196] According to a particular mode, the composition further comprises at least one polyol miscible with water at room temperature (25°C), in particular selected from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as alkyl(Cl-C4)ether of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, alkyl(Cl-C4)ethers of mono, di- or triethylene glycol; polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
[0197] Glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol (or butylene glycol), propane-1,3-diol (or propane diol), and mixtures thereof will be used more preferentially.
[0198] According to a preferred form, the non-cyclic polyol or polyols is (are) present at levels ranging from 2 to 15% by weight, in particular from 5 to 12%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0199] Non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in an oil
[0200] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer (also called silicone elastomer) carried in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil, preferably of the dimethicone type.
[0201] For the purposes of this invention, "carried" means that the elastomer is supplied in the composition in a pre-dispersed form in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil. More particularly, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil, stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C.
[0202] Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil.
[0203] The term "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" refers to a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties, particularly the consistency of a sponge or a soft sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of recovering its original shape after stretching.
[0204] This refers more specifically to a cross-linked silicone elastomer. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles can be spherical or non-spherical.
[0205] But preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the composition according to the invention is carried in at least one silicone oil chosen in particular from non-phenylated silicone oils, phenylated silicone oils having or not having a dimethicone fragment, or mixtures thereof.
[0206] More advantageously, the silicone oil or oils are chosen from among non-phenylated silicone oils, in particular from among oils bearing the INCI name "dimethicone".
[0207] The elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is chosen from among non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers
[0208] The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain, and in particular not containing polyoxyalkylene motifs (in particular polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), nor polyglyceryl motifs.
[0209] The organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by addition crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and diorganopolysiloxane having ethylenic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an organotin; or by condensation crosslinking reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane with hydroxyl terminations and a hydrolyzable organopolysiloxane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in particular in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.
[0210] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition-crosslinking reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenic unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, particularly in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst. In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0211] Compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
[0212] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, including a linear chain structure, a branched chain structure, or a cyclic structure.
[0213] The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50000 106 mm2 / s (centistokes), in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).
[0214] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
[0215] Compound (A) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-terminated dimethylsiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
[0216] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example, at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position in the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
[0217] The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic, or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state.
[0218] Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C. In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyltolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Organopolysiloxanes (B) may be selected from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane copolymers with trimethylsiloxy terminations, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations, and copolymers dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings. In particular, organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy terminations and methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy terminations, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
[0219] According to another embodiment, compound (B) may be an unsaturated hydrocarbon compound having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example, at C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be selected from vinyl, allyl, and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position in the molecule 25 but are preferably located at the ends. By way of example, hexadiene, and in particular 1,5-hexadiene, may be cited. Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.
[0220] It is advantageous that compound (A) be added in such an amount that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all ethylenic unsaturating groups in compound (B) is in the range of 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.
[0221] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular 35 chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, black platinum, and platinum on support.
[0222] The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal for 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
[0223] As non-emulsifying elastomers, one can for example use those sold under the names “DC 9040®”, “DC 9041®”, “DC 9509®”, “DC 9505®” by the Dow Corning company.
[0224] Those sold under the names "KSG-6®", "KSG15®", "KSG-16®", "KSG-18", "KSG-41®", "KSG-42®", "KSG-43®", "KSG-44®", "X-25-7034H®" by Shin Etsu; GRANSIL SR 5CYC gel®, GRANSIL SR DMF 10 GEL®, GRANSIL SR DC556 GEL® from Gransil RPS of Grant Industries; 1229-02-167®, 1229-02-168® and "SFE 839®", GRANSIL DMG-6® (INCI name: DIMETHICONE (and) POLYSILICONE-11) from General Electric.
[0225] According to a particularly preferred form, an organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in a dimethicone of INCI name: DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER will be used, such as the products sold under the trade names* KSG-6®”, KSG-16®, “X-25-7034H®” by the company Shin Etsu.
[0226] The composition according to the invention may comprise such an organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or in a mixture, in an active ingredient content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic compositions
[0227] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.
[0228] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.
[0229] The compositions according to the invention may, in addition to additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products, include: - additional active ingredients such as vitamins A, C, E, B3 (niacinamide), hyaluronic acid or one of its salts - sunscreens other than Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate; - fat-soluble or water-soluble coloring agents - additional fillers other than hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; - lipophilic thickeners; - hydrophilic thickeners - co-emulsifiers, - perfumes - conservatives
[0230] - antioxidant agents,
[0231] - chelating agents,
[0232] - neutralizing agents,
[0233] - and their mixtures.
[0234] It is a matter of routine practice for a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that their desired cosmetic properties are not affected. Additional coloring agents
[0235] A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional water-soluble or fat-soluble colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0236] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly depending on the intensity of the color effect sought and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the art.
[0237] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.
[0238] By "liposoluble colouring material", in the sense of the invention, is meant any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat and capable of colouring.
[0239] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may be cited in particular as synthetic or natural fat-soluble colorants such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (beta-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.
[0240] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.
[0241] For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble colouring material" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of colouring.
[0242] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, the following may be cited in particular: synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Additional charges
[0243] Compositions according to the invention may also include at least one additional filler other than hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
[0244] Preferably, they will be chosen from mineral or organic fillers, natural or of natural origin.
[0245] The additional fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
[0246] The additional fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. a) Mineral fillers
[0247] Examples of additional mineral fillers include talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica such as amorphous silica microspheres like the commercial product sold under the name SOLESPHERE H 51® or SUNSPHERE H 51® by AGC SLTECH, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.
[0248] Preferably, the additional mineral filler(s) is / are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. b) Organic charges
[0249] Examples of organic fillers include polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile powder like Expacel (Nobel Industrie), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder from Toshiki), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl from Toshiba, for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, stearate of zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, the Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, particularly silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US patent 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are commercially available, for example, under the names PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. It may also be cellulose powder such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads range.
[0250]
[0251] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin.
[0252] Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company SHIN ETSU and have the INCI name “VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER”.
[0253] We can also cite - crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, notably sold under the name "KSP-200®" by the company Shin Etsu and having the INCI name: "TRIFLUOROPROPYL DIMETHICONE / VINYL TRIFLUOROPROPYLDIMETHICONE / SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER"; or - hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, notably sold under the name "KSP-300®" by the company Shin Etsu and having the INCI name: "DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE / SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER".
[0254] According to an advantageous embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise an organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silsesquioxane resin having the INCI name "VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER" such as those sold under the names KSP-100®.
[0255] The organopolysiloxane elastomer powder(s) coated with silicone resin may be present in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, advantageously from 4 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. lipophilic thickeners
[0256] Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more lipophilic thickeners, i.e. soluble or dispersible in the oil phase, can be incorporated into a composition of the invention.
[0257] Preferably, lipophilic thickeners will be chosen over natural or naturally derived gelling agents.
[0258] Examples of lipophilic gelling agents include modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (BENTONE GEL VS38® from RHEOX), hectorite modified by DISTEARYL dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium Hectorite) such as the product marketed under the name "BENTONE 38 CE®" by the company RHEOX.
[0259] According to a particular method, said composition includes in addition j) at least one natural or naturally derived hydrophilic gelling agent and / or at least one natural or naturally derived lipophilic gelling agent, and more preferably at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from among modified clays, and more particularly a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE) such as the product marketed under the name "BENTONE 38 CE®" by the company RHEOX or the product "BENTONE 38VCG" by the company ELEMENTIS. Hydrophilic thickeners
[0260] Depending on the viscosity of the composition to be obtained, one or more hydrophilic thickeners, i.e. soluble or dispersible in the aqueous phase, can be incorporated into a composition of the invention.
[0261] Preferably, lipophilic thickeners will be chosen over natural or naturally derived gelling agents.
[0262] As an example of hydrophilic thickeners, celluloses such as carboxymethylcellulose, with the INCI name CELLULOSE GUM, can be cited, such as the commercial product BLANOSE CMC 7M8SF® from the company ASHLAND).
[0263] Examples include native starches and chemically modified starches such as the one with the INCI name ALUMINUM STARCH OCTENYLSUCCINATE (DRY FLO PLUS® - AKZO NOBEL).
[0264] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.
[0265] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance in which the composition is to be packaged.
[0266] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin care composition, in particular for the body or face, in particular for the face.
[0267] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, in particular the face.
[0268] Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a basic composition for makeup.
[0269] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.
[0270] According to another sub-equation of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a skin makeup composition, particularly for the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a blush.
[0271] Such compositions are in particular prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art. Packaging and applicators
[0272] The compositions according to the invention can be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which includes said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.
[0273] The container may be in any suitable shape. It may, in particular, be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case.
[0274] The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, lid, or seal, in particular of the type having a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, valve, or flap.
[0275] The container may be associated with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush, as described, for example, in French patent FR 2,722,380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer, as described, for example, in US patent 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described, for example, in French patent FR 2,761,959.
[0276] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
[0277] The closure element can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fitting, or by tightening. By " "Snap-on" refers in particular to any system involving the crossing of a bead or cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closing element, and then by return to the elastically unconstrained position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.
[0278] The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.
[0279] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube-bottle.
[0280] The container may include means for causing or facilitating the distribution of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) compression of the container walls.
[0281] The container may be equipped with a wringer located near the opening of the container. Such a wringer allows the applicator and, optionally, the rod to which it may be attached, to be wiped. Such a wringer is described, for example, in French patent FR 2 792 618.
[0282] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
[0283] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.
[0284] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as mass percentages. Examples 1 to 5
[0285] Sensory tests on a panel of at least 10 people to be carried out on simpler and different cyclohexasiloxane (D6) compositions, to be defined, from the formula that will be launched on the market: Example 1 invention Example 2 outside the scope of the invention with Ethylhexyl Methocxycinnamate (Parsol MCX®) instead of the mixture of esters with equal total quantity of ester(s) Example 3 outside the scope of the invention without DIPENTAERYTHRITYL ENTAISONONANOATE; Example 4 outside the scope of the invention without ISONONYL ISONONANOATE; Example 5 outside the invention without ISOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE.
[0286] INCI Pha se Exe mple 1 inven tion Exempl e 2 c ompara tif Exempl e 3 c ompara tif Exempl e 4 co mparat if Exempl e 5 co mparat if CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 D IMETHICONE 71247 A 2,873 2,873 2,873 2,873 2,873 DIMETHICONE 79738 A 21,194 21,194 21,194 21,194 21,194 DIMETHICONE (and) DIM ETHICONE / VINYL DIM ETHICONE CROSSPOLY MER 71685 A 1,028 1,028 1,028 1,028 1,028 DIMETHICONE (and) PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE 79628 A 1,007 1,007 1,007 1,007 1,007 DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE 80720 A 3,690 5,535 5,535 ETHYLHEXYL METHOXY CINNAMATE 52241 A 11,070 ISOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE 71185 A 3,690 5,535 5,535 ISONONYL ISONONANO ATE 53890 A 3,690 5,535 5,535 PARFUM 44624 A 0,248 0,248 0,248 0,248 0,248 PHENYL TRIMETHICONE 53166 A 3,036 3,036 3,036 3,036 3,036 POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOS TEARATE 71454 A 0,908 0,908 0,908 0,908 0,908 SILICA 71945 A 0,128 0,128 0,128 0,128 0,128 SILICA SILYLATE 79502 A 0,192 0,192 0,192 0,192 0,192 VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQU IOXANE CROSSPOLYME R 74275 A 8,079 8,079 8,079 8,079 8,079 , AQUA511S B 16.009 16.009 16.009 16.009 16.009 PRESERVATIVE 2749 B 0.695 0.695 0.695 0.695 0.695 POLYOLS 2146+79382 B 8.299 8.299 8.299 8.299 8.299 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 1129 B 0.631 0.631 0.631 0.631 0.631 ALCOHOL DENAT. 510 C 6.604 6.604 6.604 6.604 6.604 POWDERY COLORING MATERIAL PBMT8 0401+PBMT79161+PBM T79162 + PBMT79163 D 18,000 18,000 18,000 18,000 18,000
[0287] [Table 1] Composition of formulas Preparation of compositions
[0288] The components of phase A were weighed and mixed until a homogeneous phase was obtained.
[0289] The previously prepared aqueous phase B was emulsified in phase A under agitation for 15 minutes at 2500 rpm.
[0290] Phase C was added to the mixture after it had been cooled to room temperature
[0291] To prepare D, the pigments were ground in an air jet mill with 11.1% by weight of synthetic fluorphlogopite. Then D was introduced into the mixture.
[0292] A panel of 10 people tested the foundations on their faces, using 20 pL of each example
[0293] The following cosmetic criteria were evaluated on a scale of 0 to 10. The higher the score, the greater the cosmetic effect.
[0294] The results obtained are shown in the following table.
[0295] Evaluation criteria Example 1 according to the invention Example 2 comparative Example 3 comparative Example 4 comparative Example 5 comparative Notes 1 to 10: 1 = very little, 10 = a lot Drop thickness 7 5 4 5 4 Make 10 turns in 10 seconds Glide at the beginning of application 4 6 5 5 5 Roundness / thickness under the finger at the beginning of application 8 5 5 6 7 Make 10 turns in 10 seconds Glide at the end of application 4 5 5 4 4 Roundness / thickness under the finger at the end of application 8 5 4 5 5 Make 10 turns in 10 seconds Let dry for 2 minutes then evaluate the finish Coverage 8 6 6 6 6 Shine 3 3 4 5 4 Powder finish 7 6 5 4 5 Softness and suppleness 8 6 6 5 5 Homogeneity 8 7 6 4 5 Film slippage 6 5 5 4 4 Example 1 according to the invention is the most opaque, homogeneous, and among the least shiny examples. It also leaves the skin the most supple and comfortable, soft and smooth after application, despite having the most powdery feel.
[0296] Added stability data: Example 1 according to the invention Example 2 comparative Example 3 comparative Example 4 comparative Example 5 comparative 2M 4°C Moderate release Significant release, surface cracks Slight release Release droplet 2M TA Moderate release Moderate release N / A Significant release Slight release 2M 37°C N / A Moderate release Moderate release Initiation of release Significant release 2M 45°C N / A Moderate release Significant release Initiation of release Significant release with cracks 2W 55°C N / A N / A Release + surface crater Slight surface release N / A 10D cycles Slight release Significant release nothing nothing nothing Accelerated temperature stability tests show that the example according to the invention exhibits only moderate release after 2 months at 4°C and at room temperature, acceptable after shaking the sample, unlike the other examples which exhibit greater releases: their stability is less good.
Claims
Demands
1. A skincare and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials, in particular, of the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one continuous oily phase comprising (i) a mixture of fatty acid and alcohol ester comprising DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE and ISOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE; and (ii) at least one non-cyclic silicone oil; and b) at least one aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; and c) at least some hydrophobic silica aerogel particles; and d) at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant of HLB < 8.0; and e) at least one powdered colorant, said composition not containing cyclic volatile silicone oil or Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate.
2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising the oily phase in a content varying from 25 to 85%, in particular from 30 to 55%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein ISONONYL ISONONANOATE is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein DIPENTAERYTHRITYL PENTAISONONANOATE is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-cyclic silicone oil is selected from: volatile non-cyclic silicones; non-volatile phenyl silicones; mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-cyclic volatile silicone oil is selected from: - octamethyltrisiloxane, - decamethyltetrasiloxane, - dodecamethylpentasiloxane - mixtures thereof; and more particularly dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-cyclic silicone oil or oils are present in contents from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 15 to 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-cyclic volatile silicone oil or oils are present in contents from 5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 15 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, INCI name PHENYL TRIMETHICONE.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil or oils are present at levels from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 7%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the continuous oily phase of the composition of the invention comprises at least one linear volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, and more particularly, a mixture of dodecamethylpentasiloxane and phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane.
13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water in a content ranging from 20 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably 30 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface modified by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably of INCI name SILICA SILYLATE.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silica aerogel particles are present in a content of 0.1 to 7%, preferably in a content of 0.05 to 5% by weight, in particular in a content of 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone emulsifying surfactant or surfactants is (are) present in amounts from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and more particularly a mixture of DIMETHICONE, PEG / PPG-18 / 18 DIMETHICONE and CETYL PEG / PPG-10 / 1 DIMETHICONE and POLYGLYCERY-4 ISOSTEARATE.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the powdered colouring material(s) is / are present in a content of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the powdered colouring material(s) is / are selected from iron oxides, titanium dioxides, and mixtures thereof.
20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one polyol miscible with water at room temperature (25°C), in particular selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol (or butylene glycol), propane-1,3-diol (or propane diol), and mixtures thereof.
21. Composition according to claim 20, wherein the non-cyclic polyol or polyols is / are present at contents ranging from 2 to 15% weight, in particular 5 to 12%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in at least one silicone or hydrocarbon oil, preferably of the dimethicone type, in particular a mixture of INCI name DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER.
23. Composition according to claim 22, comprising organopolysiloxane telastomer, alone or in mixture, in an active material content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2% by weight, and even more preferably 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additional filler other than hydrophobic silica aerogel particles,
25. Composition according to claim 24, wherein the additional filler is a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, and more particularly of INCI name: VINYL DIMETHICONE / METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER.
26. Composition according to claim 25, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer powder(s) coated with silicone resin is / are present in a content of 1 to 15% by weight, advantageously 4 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
27. Cosmetic coating process, in particular makeup process, for keratinous materials, in particular skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, comprising at least the application to said keratinous materials of a composition as defined in any of the preceding claims.