Cosmetic composition in the form of aqueous spheroids of the core-bark type based on chitosan
Combining polyglutamic acid and chitosan in specific conditions creates stable, gelled core-shell spheroids that address the incompatibility and stickiness issues, enhancing skin care efficacy with improved smoothing and penetration.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LVMH RECH
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-19
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-26
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Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition in the form of aqueous core-bark type spheroids based on chitosan. Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field, and more particularly to a cosmetic composition in the form of aqueous core-shell spheroids comprising a combination of a specific anionic polymer and a specific cationic polymer. The present invention also relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention, as well as a method for skin and / or hair care comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention to at least one part of the body and / or face and / or hair.
[0002] Mixing an anionic polymer and a cationic polymer in aqueous solution generally causes segregative phase separation, leading to the formation of two distinct phases, each enriched in one of the polymers. This phase separation results from the incompatibility between the two polymers, and it becomes more pronounced as the concentrations or molar masses of the polymers increase.
[0003] The inventors have surprisingly observed that combining an anionic polymer based on a salt of polyglutamic acid and a cationic polymer based on chitosan, normally incompatible because they are thermodynamically unstable, allows the production of macroscopic aqueous spheroids visible to the naked eye with a homogeneous spherical shape. The aqueous spheroids thus obtained consist of a gelled core surrounded by a shell solidified by polymerization. The inventors have also observed that chitosan, usually difficult to work with due to its high stickiness and cationic nature, exhibits very low (or even no) stickiness when formulated as an aqueous gel within aqueous core-shell spheroids. This gelled spheroidal structure also improves the contractile properties (smoothing / tightening effect) of chitosan.Thus, the cosmetic composition of the invention, based on aqueous chitosan spheroids, exhibits improved efficacy in terms of skin smoothing / tightening effect and is non-sticky. Finally, the cosmetic composition of the invention allows for rapid penetration of the chitosan and its active ingredients, provides a cooling effect and a sensory experience distinct from conventional products, with a soft and luminous finish, as well as a "second skin" effect when applied to the skin. Brief description of the drawings
[0004] The attached drawings are schematic and are intended primarily to illustrate the principles of the invention.
[0005] [Fig-1] and [Fig.2] Figures 1 and 2 represent heart-type aqueous spheroids bark according to the invention. Description of the invention
[0006] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of aqueous core-bark type spheroids, comprising: a) an anionic polymer selected from the salts of polyglutamic acid, and their mixtures, and preferably SODIUM POLYGLUTAMATE, b) a cationic polymer which is CHITOSAN, and c) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
[0007] For the purposes of this invention, the term "spheroid" refers to a spherically shaped bead having the same composition throughout. The spheroids of the invention preferably have a regular appearance, a smooth surface, and a uniform volume. The diameter of the spheroids can vary from 0.1 to 10 mm, and preferably from 0.2 to 5 mm, this diameter being an average diameter measured over ten measurements using a conventional method, for example, with a graduated ruler. The spheroids of the invention are of the core-shell type, the shell of which can break under low shear stress.
[0008] The hardness of the spheroids of the invention can be measured at 20°C using a TAXTPlus texture analyzer from Stable Micro Systems. The hardness of the spheroids of the invention is expressed in Newtons (N) and is advantageously greater than 0.05 N. According to a particular and preferred method, the hardness of the spheroids according to the invention varies from 0.05 to 2 N.
[0009] In a preferred embodiment, the gelling agent c) is a non-ionic gelling agent, preferably selected from natural or synthetic polysaccharides, hydrophilic urethane polymers modified by a hydrophobic group, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the gelling agent c) is selected from SCLEROTIUM GUM, HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE, SPHINGOMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT, PEG-240 / HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER, HYDROXYETHYL CELULOSE, AGAR, and mixtures thereof.
[0010] The anionic polymer a) can represent from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0011] The cationic polymer b) can represent from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0012] The total of anionic polymer a) and cationic polymer b) may represent at least 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
[0013] The ratio of anionic polymer a) / cationic polymer b) advantageously varies from 1 / 1 to 1 / 8, and preferably from 1 / 2 to 1 / 5. In a preferred embodiment, the ratio of anionic polymer a) / cationic polymer b) is 1 / 4.
[0014] In a preferred embodiment of the cosmetic composition of the invention: - the core of the spheroids consists of the cationic polymer b) CHITOSAN and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent c), and - the shell of the spheroids consists of the anionic polymer a) selected from the salts of polyglutamic acid, and their mixtures, and the cationic polymer b) CHITOSAN.
[0015] The aqueous core-bark type spheroids of the invention can be used as such as a cosmetic composition, or alternatively be suspended in a cosmetically acceptable continuous phase.
[0016] Thus, in a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition of the invention consists of aqueous spheroids suspended in a continuous gelled aqueous phase.
[0017] In this embodiment, the continuous gelled aqueous phase advantageously comprises at least one translucent hydrophilic gelling agent having a suspending capacity. The term "translucent" refers to a gelling agent that allows light to pass through but is not transparent. Thus, a "translucent" gelling agent allows light rays to pass through but does not allow the contours of the core-shell type aqueous spheroids suspended therein to be clearly distinguished. The term "suspending capacity" refers to a gelling agent capable of increasing the viscosity of the continuous gelled aqueous phase so as to improve the suspending character (or capacity) of said continuous gelled aqueous phase, particularly with respect to the core-shell type aqueous spheroids.This translucent hydrophilic gelling agent with a "suspension power" allows the stabilization of core-shell type aqueous spheroids within the continuous gelled aqueous phase, and in particular allows the prevention and / or avoidance of the coalescence of aqueous spheroids with each other and / or their creaming or sedimentation in the continuous gelled aqueous phase.
[0018] In a preferred embodiment, the translucent hydrophilic gelling agent with suspending power is selected from natural or synthetic polysaccharides, acrylic acid polymers, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the translucent hydrophilic gelling agent with suspending power is selected from SCLEROTIUM GUM, SPHINGOMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT, HYDROXYETHYL CELULOSE, AGAR, CELLULOSE GUM, CARBOMER, and mixtures thereof.
[0019] When the cosmetic composition of the invention consists of aqueous spheroids suspended in a continuous gelled aqueous phase, the ratio between the aqueous spheroids and the continuous gelled aqueous phase varies preferably from 90 / 10 to 1 / 99, and more preferably from 80 / 20 to 60 / 40.
[0020] In one embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention may comprise at least one pearlescent pigment, preferably within aqueous core-shell spheroids. The pearlescent pigments may advantageously be selected from alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, aluminum, and mixtures thereof. For example, the product SilikMira Sleek VRO, marketed by Sandream Specialties, which is a mixture of silica, titanium dioxide, and calcium sodium borosilicate, may be used.
[0021] Another object of the invention relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention, as described above.
[0022] The process for preparing the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the following steps: (i) under stirring, preparation of an aqueous gel of anionic polymer a) by mixing water with an anionic polymer a) selected from the salts of polyglutamic acid, and mixtures thereof, advantageously at a pH between 8 and 12.5, and preferably at a temperature from 60 to 100°C, (ii) under stirring, preparation of an aqueous cationic polymer gel b) by mixing water with a cationic polymer b), which is chitosan, and a hydrophilic gelling agent c), (iii) under stirring, incorporation of the aqueous anionic polymer gel a) formed in step (i), drop by drop, preferably using a syringe, into the aqueous cationic polymer gel b) formed in step (ii), to form aqueous spheroids preferably having a size of 0.1 to 10 mm, suspended in the aqueous cationic polymer gel b), (iv) under agitation, maintaining the aqueous spheroids formed in step (iii) in suspension in the aqueous cationic polymer gel (b), for a period of at least 10 minutes, and preferably for a period of 10 to 45 minutes, until a bark forms around the aqueous spheroids, (v) filtering and washing the aqueous spheroids, (vi) Optionally, incorporation of the aqueous spheroids obtained in step (v) into a continuous gelled aqueous phase preferably comprising at least one translucent hydrophilic gelling agent having a suspending power.
[0023] In a preferred embodiment, a base is added during step (i) of preparation of the aqueous gel of anionic polymer a). This base is preferably a strong base, and more preferably sodium hydroxide (NaOH).
[0024] The inventors observed that the preparation of an aqueous gel of anionic polymer a) at a pH between 8 and 12.5 and / or in the presence of a base such as NaOH, during step (i), improves the stability over time of the cosmetic composition of the invention in the form of aqueous core-bark type spheroids.
[0025] The aqueous anionic polymer gel a) prepared in step (i) preferably has a viscosity ranging from 0 to 300 mPa.s at 20°C, and more preferably from 0 to 70 mPa.s at 20°C.
[0026] The aqueous cationic polymer gel b) prepared in step (i) has a viscosity ranging from 60 to 3,600 mPa.s at 20°C, and preferably from 100 to 1,500 mPa.s at 20°C.
[0027] In one embodiment, the incorporation by drop of the aqueous anionic polymer gel a) formed in step (i) into the aqueous cationic polymer gel b) formed in step (ii) is carried out by placing the drop at a height of at least 3 cm, and preferably at a height of 5 to 30 cm, above the aqueous cationic polymer gel b).
[0028] Finally, a last object of the invention relates to a skin and / or hair care process comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition as defined according to the invention, on at least one part of the body and / or face and / or hair.
[0029] In addition to the foregoing provisions, the invention also includes other provisions which will become apparent from the following supplementary description, which relates to the preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention and comparative cosmetic compositions.
[0030] Examples:
[0031] In the following examples, and unless otherwise indicated, all percentages are given as mass percentages, ingredients are designated by their INCI name, and the temperature is given in degrees Celsius.
[0032] The characterization methods used in the examples are as follows:
[0033] Viscosity measurement: Viscosity was measured using a Rhéolab® rotational rheometer with a CC27 coaxial cylindrical spindle.
[0034] Analysis by optical microscopy: The compositions of the specimens were observed under a light microscope, and their spherical or non-spherical shape was determined visually. Spheroids have a spherical shape when their outer layer is rigid enough to maintain this shape. spherical over time. Spheroids that do not have sufficient hardness (too soft) do not maintain their spherical shape over time. The optical microscopy analysis method made it possible to highlight the shape of the spheroids and to observe their size and shape. ++: perfectly spherical shape, and x: non-spherical shape.
[0035] Evaluation of the stability of the compositions: The stability of the compositions was evaluated after oven curing at temperatures of 4°C, 45°C and 50°C, after one week. The overall stability of each composition was categorized as follows: ++: very good stability (homogeneous formula), +: good stability (slight reversible phase shift), x: not stable (irreversible phase shift).
[0036] Measurement of the hardness of spheroids: The hardness of the spheroids was measured at 20°C using a TAXTPlus texture analyzer from Stable Micro Systems, equipped with a 500 g sensor. The instrument used is a 20 mm diameter stainless steel cylinder. The measurement consists of measuring the force as a function of the spheroid's crushing distance, at a speed of 1 mm / s, up to 80% of its size, a value sufficient to exceed the distance required for bursting / fracture. The results extracted at the point of bursting / fracture of the spheroid are expressed in Gram-force (Gf) and converted to Newtons (N).
[0037] Example 1: Preparation of cosmetic compositions in the form of aqueous core-shell type spheroids
[0038] Chitosan-based spheroids according to the invention comprising different hydrophilic gelling agents, and comparative spheroids, were prepared and evaluated.
[0039] [Tables 1] Ingredients INCI Names Control 1 Invention 1 Invention 2 Invention 3 Cationic Polymer Gel PURIFYING WATER IEE AQUA QSP 100 CHLORPHENESIN 0.3 NATPURE FILM CH (SENSIENT Beauty) CHITOSAN 2 Kelco-Care™ (Lubrizol) SPHINGOMO NAS FERMENT EXTRACT 0.5 SODIUM CHLORIDE 2.5 StarDesign™ Care (Cargill Beauty) HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE 4 Amigum™ (C roda) SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.5 Gel Viscosity (mPa.s) 37 601 3238 402 Gel pH 4.8 4.4 3.8 4.0 Anionic Polymer Bath PURIFYING WATER IEE AQUA QSP 100 CHLORPHENESIN 0.3 GAMMA-MAX (Rahn AG) SODIUM POLYG LUTAMATE 0.5 pH of the bath 6.9
[0040] The protocol for preparing cosmetic compositions in the form of aqueous core-bark type spheroids was as follows:
[0041] Preparation of the cationic polymer gel b): The phase containing water and the preservative was heated to 80°C. Once the mixture was homogenized, the hydrophilic gelling agent (SPHINGOMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT) was added. The mixture was then stirred using a Rayneri deflocculator at 500 rpm for 20 minutes. The cationic polymer b) was then added, and the mixture was stirred for 10 minutes. The resulting cationic polymer b) gel was cooled to 35°C, then compensated by adding water, and finally packaged in a transparent bottle.
[0042] Preparation of the anionic polymer bath a): The phase containing water and preservative was heated to 80°C. Once the mixture was homogenized, the anionic polymer a) was added and the mixture was stirred using a Rayneri deflocculator at 500 rpm for 20 minutes. The anionic polymer a) bath was cooled to 35°C, then topped up with water, and finally packaged in a transparent bottle.
[0043] Fabrication of aqueous core-bark type spheroids: The previously prepared cationic polymer gel b) was added dropwise using an automatic syringe to the previously prepared anionic polymer bath a) while stirring. The height between the tip of the syringe needle and the surface of the aqueous anionic polymer gel bath a) was set at 15 cm. The formation of aqueous spheroids within the anionic polymer bath a) was observed, with the formation of a white coating. The contact time of the spheroids in the bath was set at 15 minutes while stirring. The spheroids thus obtained were filtered through a sieve and then rinsed with distilled water for 10 minutes while stirring. This rinsing step was repeated three times. The aqueous spheroids were again filtered through a sieve and then stored in a transparent bottle.
[0044] Results:
[0045] The prepared spheroids were visually inspected to confirm their formation and verify their sphericity. The results are shown in the following table:
[0046] [Tables2] Witness 1 Invention 1 Invention 2 Invention 3 Spheroid Formation No Yes Yes Yes
[0047] For the spheroids of the Control 1 formula, the cationic polymer gel did not allow the formation of spherical spheroids at the time of introduction drip-feeding of the cationic gel into the bath comprising the anionic polymer, unlike the spheroids of Inventions 1, 2 and 3.
[0048] The spheroids of Invention 3 have an average diameter of 3 mm and a homogeneous spherical shape as shown in [Fig. 1]. The hardness of the spheroids of Invention 3, measured according to the method described above, is 0.12 N.
[0049] Example 2: Methods for preparing spheroids according to the invention
[0050] Two methods for preparing spheroids according to the invention have been implemented.
[0051] [Tables3] Ingredients INCI Names Invention 4 Invention 5 Cationic Polymer Gel PURIFIED WATER AQUA QSP 100 CHLORPHENESIN 0.3 NATPURE FILM CH (SENSIENT Beauty) CHITOSAN 2 Amigum™ (Croda) SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.5 Gel Viscosity (mPa.s) 364 Gel pH 4 Anionic Polymer Bath PURIFIED WATER AQUA QSP 100 CHLORPHENESIN 0.3 GAMMA-MAX (R ahn AG) SODIUM POLYGLUT AMATE 0.5 TRI SODIUM CITRATE 2H2O GRANULE TRISODIUM CITRATE DIHYDRATE 1 - SODIUM HYDROXIDE - 0.2 Bath pH 6.9 12.3
[0052] Aqueous core-bark type spheroids were prepared according to the following protocol:
[0053] Preparation of the cationic polymer gel b): The preparation of the cationic polymer gel b) was identical to that described in example 1, substituting the gelling agent SPHINGOMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT with SCLEROTIUM GUM.
[0054] Preparation of the anionic polymer bath a): The phase containing water and preservative was heated to 80°C. Once the mixture was homogenized, the anionic polymer a) was added and the mixture was stirred using a Rayneri deflocculator at 500 rpm for 20 minutes. Tri-sodium citrate or sodium hydroxide was added to achieve a pH of 12.3. The anionic polymer a) bath was cooled to 35°C, then topped up with water, and finally packaged in a transparent bottle.
[0055] Fabrication of aqueous core-bark type spheroids: Aqueous core-bark spheroids were prepared using the drop-by-drop method described in Example 1. The formation of aqueous spheroids within the anionic polymer bath (a) was observed, with the formation of a white bark. The contact time of the spheroids in the bath was set at 15 minutes, with stirring. The resulting spheroids were filtered through a sieve and then rinsed with distilled water for 10 minutes with stirring. This rinsing step was repeated three times. The aqueous spheroids were again filtered through a sieve and then stored in a transparent bottle.
[0056] Results:
[0057] The spheroids formed from the formulas of Inventions 4 and 5 were visually inspected to verify their sphericity. The stability results for these spheroids are shown in the following table:
[0058] [Tables4] Invention 4 Invention 5 Rinsability + conditioning + ++ Stability after 1 week in the oven + ++
[0059] Increasing the pH of the anionic polymer bath into which the cationic polymer gel was added dropwise facilitated recovery (rinsability and conditioning) of the spheroids and also led to improved stability of the spheroids after one week in the oven. Adding a base to the anionic polymer bath rendered the cationic polymer gel insoluble at the cationic gel / anionic bath interface, allowing the formation of spherical beads that did not stick together.
[0060] Example 3: Preparation of a cosmetic composition of aqueous spheroids suspended in a continuous gelled aqueous phase according to the invention
[0061] A cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising chitosan-based spheroids suspended in a continuous gelled aqueous phase was prepared and evaluated.
[0062] [Tables5] Ingredients INCI Names Invention 6 Cationic Polymer Gel PURIFIED WATER AQUA QSP 100 NATPURE FILM CH (S ENSIENT Beauty) CHITOSAN 2 Amigum™ (Croda) SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.5 CHLORPHENESIN CHLORPHENESIN 0.3 SilikMira Sleek VRO (San dream Specialties) (pearls) SILICA; TiO2; CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE 0.5 Gel Viscosity (mPa.s) 364 Gel pH 4.0 Anionic Polymer Bath PURIFIED WATER AQUA QSP 100 CHLORPHENESIN CHLORPHENESIN 0.27 GAMMA-MAX (Rahn AG) SODIUM POLYGLUTAMATE 0.5 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.2 Bath pH 12.3
[0063] Aqueous core-bark type spheroids according to the formula of Invention 6 were prepared according to the following protocol:
[0064] Preparation of the cationic polymer gel b): The cationic polymer gel b) was prepared according to the same protocol as described in example 2.
[0065] Preparation of the anionic polymer bath a): The anionic polymer bath (a) was prepared according to the same protocol as described in Example 2. The pH of the anionic polymer bath (a) was maintained at approximately 12 by adding a strong base. Nacres were added to the cationic polymer gel after the addition and homogenization of the cationic polymer, and then the mixture was stirred using a Rayneri deflocculator at 300 rpm and cooled to a temperature of 35°C, compensated by adding water, and finally packaged in a transparent bottle.
[0066] Fabrication of aqueous core-bark type spheroids: The aqueous core-bark type spheroids were prepared using the same drop-by-drop method described in Example 1, and then stored in a transparent bottle.
[0067] Incorporation of aqueous core-bark type spheroids into a continuous gelled aqueous phase: an aqueous gel corresponding to the formula of Table 6 below was prepared to disperse the spheroids of the Invention 6 previously prepared.
[0068] [Tableauxô] Ingredients INCI Names Quantities (% by weight) PURIFIED WATER AQUA QSP 100 VEGETABLE GLYCEROL GLYCERIN 3 CHLORPHENESI N 0.3 Carbopol® Ultrez 30 CARBOMER 0.3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.1 PURAC® HiPure 90 LACTIC ACID 0.04 Perfume and perfume solubilizer 0.8
[0069] The aqueous phase was heated to a temperature of 80°C, then the hydrophilic gelling agent was added and the mixture was stirred using a Rayneri deflocculator at 500 rpm for 20 minutes. Sodium hydroxide and lactic acid were added to neutralize the hydrophilic gelling agent and adjust the pH to 6. The resulting gelled aqueous phase was cooled to a temperature of 35°C, then compensated by the addition of water, and finally packaged in a transparent bottle.
[0070] The previously prepared aqueous core-bark spheroids of Invention 6 were suspended in the continuous gelled aqueous phase. The cosmetic composition consisting of the continuous gelled aqueous phase in which the spheroids were dispersed was packaged in a cup and photographed in [Fig. 2].
[0071] Applying the prepared cosmetic composition to the skin produces a pleasant sensation, notably an absence of stickiness despite the presence of chitosan, which is known for its stickiness, thanks to the encapsulation of the chitosan within the spheroids. Applying the cosmetic composition to the skin also produces a noticeably improved tightening effect.
Claims
Demands
1. Cosmetic composition in the form of aqueous core-shell type spheroids, characterized in that it comprises: a) an anionic polymer selected from the salts of polyglutamic acid, and mixtures thereof, b) a cationic polymer which is CHITOSAN, and c) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.
2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic polymer a) is SODIUM POLYGLUTAMATE.
3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the gelling agent c) is a non-ionic gelling agent, preferably selected from natural or synthetic polysaccharides, hydrophilic urethane polymers modified by a hydrophobic group, and mixtures thereof.
4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein the gelling agent c) is selected from SCLEROTIUM GUM, HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE, SPHINGOMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT, PEG-240 / HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER, HYDROXYETHYL CELULOSE, AGAR, and mixtures thereof.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the spheroids have a size ranging from 0.1 to 10 mm, and preferably from 0.2 to 5 mm.
6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the anionic polymer a) represents from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the cationic polymer b) represents from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
8. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the total of anionic polymer (a) and cationic polymer (b) represents at least 0.2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight. weight, and more preferably 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the ratio of anionic polymer a) / cationic polymer b) varies from 1 / 1 to 1 / 8, preferably from 1 / 2 to 1 / 5, and more preferably is 1 / 4.
10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein: - the core of the spheroids consists of the cationic polymer b) CHITOSAN and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent c), and - the shell of the spheroids consists of the anionic polymer a) selected from the salts of polyglutamic acid, and mixtures thereof, and the cationic polymer b) CHITOSAN.
11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the aqueous spheroids are suspended in a continuous gelled aqueous phase.
12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 11, wherein the continuous gelled aqueous phase comprises at least one translucent hydrophilic gelling agent having a suspending power, preferably selected from natural or synthetic polysaccharides, acrylic acid polymers, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from SCLEROTIUM GUM, SPHINGOMONAS FERMENT EXTRACT, HYDROXYETHYL CELULOSE, AGAR, CELLULOSE GUM, CARBOMER, and mixtures thereof.
13. Cosmetic composition according to claim 11 or claim 12, characterized in that the ratio between aqueous spheroids and continuous gelled aqueous phase varies from 90 / 10 to 1 / 99, and preferably from 80 / 20 to 60 / 40.
14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it comprises at least one pearlescent pigment, preferably selected from alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminium borosilicate, aluminium, and mixtures thereof.
15. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
16.
17. (i) under stirring, preparation of an aqueous anionic polymer gel a) by mixing water with an anionic polymer a) selected from the salts of polyglutamic acid, and mixtures thereof, advantageously at a pH between 8 and 12.5, and preferably at a temperature from 60 to 100°C, said aqueous anionic polymer gel a) preferably having a viscosity from 0 to 300 mPa·s at 20°C, and more preferably from 0 to 70 mPa·s at 20°C, (ii) under stirring, preparation of an aqueous cationic polymer gel b) by mixing water with a cationic polymer b), which is chitosan, and a hydrophilic gelling agent c), said aqueous cationic polymer gel b) having a viscosity from 60 to 3600 mPa·s at 20°C, and preferably from 100 to 1500 mPa.at 20°C, (iii) under stirring, incorporation of the aqueous anionic polymer gel a) formed in step (i), dropwise, preferably using a syringe, into the aqueous cationic polymer gel b) formed in step (ii), and preferably by placing the dropper at a height of at least 3 cm, and preferably at a height of 5 to 30 cm, above the aqueous cationic polymer gel b), to form aqueous spheroids having preferably a size of 0.1 to 10 mm, suspended in the aqueous cationic polymer gel b). (iv) under agitation, maintaining the aqueous spheroids formed in step (iii) in suspension in the aqueous cationic polymer gel (b), for a period of at least 10 minutes, and preferably for a period of 10 to 45 minutes, until a bark forms around the aqueous spheroids, (v) filtration and washing of aqueous spheroids, (vi) Optionally, incorporation of the aqueous spheroids obtained in step (v) into a continuous gelled aqueous phase preferably comprising at least one translucent hydrophilic gelling agent having a suspending power. A process according to claim 15, characterized in that a base is added during step (i) of preparing the aqueous gel of anionic polymer a), said base preferably being sodium hydroxide (NaOH). A skin and / or hair care process characterized in that it includes a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, on at least one part of the body and / or face and / or hair.