COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXIDATION DYE AND / OR AN ALKALINE AGENT, A LIQUID FAT AND A CATIONIC GUAR GUM
A composition of oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, and cationic guar gum with specific ratios addresses selectivity and durability issues in hair coloring, offering a creamy texture and environmental sustainability, enhancing color intensity and hair health.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-23
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-26
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN OXIDATION DYE AND / OR A ALKALINE AGENT, A LIQUID FAT AND A CATIONIC GUAR GUM
[0001] The present invention relates to the field of hair coloring. It aims to provide a composition capable of serving as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions usable in a process of artificial coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair.
[0002] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one oxidation dye and / or alkaline agent, at least one liquid fat and at least one cationic guar gum.
[0003] The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibers of the composition according to the invention, as well as a kit comprising the composition according to the invention and an oxidizing composition.
[0004] It is known to dye keratin fibers, and in particular human hair, with dye compositions containing precursors of oxidation dyes, such as oxidation bases, notably ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, and heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing agents, can give rise to colored compounds through an oxidative condensation process.
[0005] It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with color couplers or modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diaminobenzenes, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indolic compounds.
[0006] The variety of molecules involved at the level of the oxidation bases and the couplers allows for the obtaining of a rich palette of colors.
[0007] Permanent hair coloring is characterized by the use of oxidation color precursor(s) (bases and / or couplers) in the presence of oxidizing compound(s). To be considered effective, it must meet certain criteria. It must allow for the creation of shades in the desired intensity with the smallest possible color variations between the tip and root of the same strand (also called selectivity).
[0008] The colouring must also be resistant over time and not degrade in the presence of external agents such as washing, light, climatic conditions, friction and perspiration.
[0009] However, the coloring results obtained are not always very satisfactory, particularly in terms of selectivity, color rise, chromaticity, intensity and / or persistence, especially with successive shampoos, or resistance to light or perspiration.
[0010] Also, hair can be weakened or damaged by repeated coloring, so users often also resort to separate hair care products to condition the hair. This two-step hair treatment (coloring, then conditioning) is more complicated to implement, time-consuming, and expensive for the user.
[0011] In addition, current compositions for hair colorings generally have the following disadvantages: conditioning properties that are not entirely satisfactory, an odor that can be unpleasant, scalp discomfort and / or a texture that is sometimes difficult to distribute evenly on keratin fibers (running), especially hair.
[0012] From these observations arose the interest in developing new compositions, which could serve as a basis for the formulation of all types of compositions usable in a process of coloring keratin fibers, allowing to obtain a coloring of keratin fibers that is not very selective (i.e. homogeneous from root to tip), intense, tenacious, chromatic, with a good rise of color, and which are capable of leading to colorings resistant to the various aggressions that the fibers can undergo, such as climatic conditions, washing and perspiration, and also capable of leading to good dyeing performance even after a period of storage.
[0013] It is also of interest that these new compositions be not very aggressive to the scalp, that they have good properties of use such as ease of mixing, a pleasant smell, a pleasant texture, that they are easy to apply, and that they also give care / conditioning properties to the keratin fibers, more particularly softness to the touch, suppleness, shine and / or a smooth feel.
[0014] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges.
[0015] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions that make it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.
[0016] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.
[0017] These objectives are achieved with the present invention, which relates in particular to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising: (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, (ii) at least one fat that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one cationic guar gum, and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is within the range of 3 to 10.
[0018] It has been observed that the composition according to the invention provides better dyeing properties. In particular, the resulting color is less selective and exhibits good color development, intensity, chromaticity, and tenacity.
[0019] The colors of the keratin fibers obtained with the composition according to the invention are particularly resistant to external agents (washing, light, weathering, friction, perspiration), in particular resistant to several shampoos.
[0020] The compositions according to the invention exhibit good performance and cosmetic properties, notably a pleasant odor and a distinctive texture compared to commonly used hair coloring compositions, with a creamy texture that melts easily upon application, particularly on contact with keratin fibers such as hair. The texture of the compositions according to the invention is particularly valued for being non-sticky and fluid, which allows for its use in various application methods, such as in a bowl or hot water bottle.
[0021] The compositions according to the invention succeed in presenting a firm and melting texture upon application, while allowing homogeneous deposition of the latter on keratin fibers (no drips), in particular keratin fibers such as hair.
[0022] It has been observed that the compositions according to the invention lead to good scalp comfort during application.
[0023] It has also been found that hair treated in this way is particularly shiny, light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to detangle and more manageable.
[0024] In addition, the compositions according to the invention are particularly environmentally friendly, in particular by not comprising any or very few compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0025] The invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin fibers.
[0026] The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition.
[0027] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.
[0028] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included; - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the bounds are not included. - For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" refers more particularly to human keratin fibers, more preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, and even more preferably hair. - For the purposes of this invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty acid" means an organic acid comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - For the purposes of this invention, "(poly)oxyalkylated compound" means a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups. can vary from 1 to 150, more preferably the (poly)oxyalkylated compound does not include a glycerol group; - By "(poly)glycerol compound", for the purposes of the present invention, means a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably the number of glycerol groups can vary from 0 to 30.
[0029] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is silicone-free. By the expression "silicone-free", it is understood that the composition according to the invention does not contain silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are contained in a total content less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.05% relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, better silicone-free (0%).
[0030] By "silicone" is meant all organosilicon polymers or oligomers with linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted, being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.
[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent.
[0032] In other words, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one beneficial agent selected from oxidation dyes, alkaline agents, and mixtures thereof.
[0033] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: (i) at least one oxidation dye, (ii) at least one liquid fat at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one cationic guar gum, and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is within the range of 3 to 10.
[0034] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: (i) at least one alkaline agent, (ii) at least one liquid fat at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one cationic guar gum, and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is within the range of 3 to 10.
[0035] According to a third embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises: (i) at least one oxidation dye and at least one alkaline agent, (ii) at least one liquid fat at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and (iii) at least one cationic guar gum, and wherein the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range of 3 to 10.
[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye and at least one alkaline agent.
[0037] All the characteristics and preferences described below apply, independently of each other, to all the embodiments (first, second and third) above.
[0038] Oxidation dyes The composition according to the invention may advantageously include at least one oxidation dye.
[0039] Oxidation dyes (also called "oxidation dye precursors") can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.
[0040] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.
[0041] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.
[0042] Oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0043] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular selected from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0044] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0045] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.
[0046] Among the paraphenylenediamines that can be mentioned, examples include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine,N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[α-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-γ-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0047] Among the aforementioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[>-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.
[0048] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that can be mentioned, examples include N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of salts.
[0049] Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned, we find for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and addition salts, solvates and solvates of salts.
[0050] Among the ortho-aminophenols that can be mentioned, we find for example 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0051] Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned, we find for example the derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole.
[0052] Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0053] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in French patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0054] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from among the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, possibly cationic, possibly substituted by one or more (CrC6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Ci-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Ci-C6)alkoxy group possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.
[0055] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, where a tautomeric equilibrium exists.
[0056] Among the pyrazole derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-Diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts. 4,5-diamino-l-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.
[0057] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated.
[0058] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in French patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-1H)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-l,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one their salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts. ,
[0059] Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used.
[0060] Preferably, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used as heterocyclic bases.
[0061] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from among para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, their corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from among 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0062] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases, the total content of oxidation base(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still 0.01% to 10% by weight, better 0.05% to 5%, even better 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0063] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases selected from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation base(s) selected from 2-methoxymethyl-para- phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures, is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still 0.01% to 10% by weight, better 0.05% to 5%, better still 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0064] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation bases selected from paraphenylenediamine, paratoluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0065] The oxidation dye(s) can also be chosen from one or more couplers, which can be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for staining keratin fibers.
[0066] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers.
[0067] Among the useful couplers according to the invention, we can in particular mention metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.
[0068] Examples include 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(|3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol,3-Aminophenol, 3-Amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.
[0069] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from among the addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as soda, potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.
[0070] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched alcohol from C1 to C4 such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.
[0071] Preferably, the coupler(s) are chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.
[0072] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still 0.01% to 10% by weight, better 0.05% to 5%, even better 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0073] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation couplers selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof, the total content of oxidation coupler(s) selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5%, even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0074] According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation couplers selected from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0075] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye different from the oxidation dyes selected from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.
[0076] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) are chosen from oxidation bases, couplers, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably among 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0077] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye, the total content of oxidation dye(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better from 0.05% to 5%, even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0078] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one direct colorant.
[0079] These direct colorants can be synthetic or natural.
[0080] By "direct dye," we mean colored species. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially onto the fiber.
[0081] These synthetic direct dyes are chosen for example from those classically used in direct dyeing, and among which we can mention all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methinic, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinonic, indoamine, phthalocyanic and their mixtures.
[0082] Among the benzene nitro direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis([3-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1- [3,y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-; nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-P,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; lP-ammoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.
[0083] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.
[0084] Among the direct hydrazono colorants, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.
[0085] Among the aryl nitrate direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-pheny lenediamine.
[0086] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.
[0087] Among the quinone direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.
[0088] Among the direct azinic dyes, we can mention: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.
[0089] Among the direct indamine dyes, we can mention: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino- 5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.
[0090] Natural direct dyes are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.
[0091] Among the useful orthodiphenols according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betadin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.
[0092] When the composition includes at least one direct colorant, the total content of direct colorant(s) is preferably in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better from 0.05% to 5%, better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0093] More preferably, the direct dye(s) are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, aryl nitrate direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinones, and mixtures thereof.
[0094] More preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from among the ionic direct dyes, better from among the cationic direct dyes.
[0095] Even more preferably, cationic direct dyes are chosen from azo direct dyes, hydrazono direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinones, and their mixtures.
[0096] When the composition includes at least one direct colorant, the total content of direct colorant(s) is preferably in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better from 0.05% to 5%, better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0097] When the composition includes at least one cationic direct dye, the total content of cationic direct dye(s) is preferably in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight; more preferably from 0.005% to 15% by weight. weight; more preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight; better from 0.05% to 5% by weight; even better from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0098] Preferably, when present, the total content of oxidation dye(s) and direct dye(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.002% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.005% to 10% by weight, better from 0.005% to 5%, better from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0099] Alkaline agents The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least one alkaline agent.
[0100] The alkali agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid alkali agents.
[0101] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agents" are used interchangeably.
[0102] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.
[0103] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.
[0104] By alkanolamine, we mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in CrC8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
[0105] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.
[0106] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof.
[0107] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, and citrulline.
[0108] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among amino acids, examples include pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Examples of amino acid dipeptides usable in the present invention include carnosine, anserine, and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine functional group. Examples of amines of this type other than arginine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid).
[0109] The amino acids used as an alkaline agent according to the invention are not surfactants.
[0110] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as hybrid compounds.
[0111] Preferably, the alkali agent(s) according to the invention are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline-earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof; more preferably from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines and mixtures thereof; better from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine and mixtures thereof; and always better from ammonium hydroxide.
[0112] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkali agent, the total content of alkali agent(s) is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably still 2% to 15% by weight, better 3% to 12% by weight, better still 3.5% to 10%, even better 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0113] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine, the total alkanolamine content is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably still 2% to 15% by weight, better 3% to 12% by weight, better from 3.5% to 10%, even better from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0114] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises ammonium hydroxide, the total content of ammonium hydroxide is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably still 2% to 15% by weight, better 3% to 12% by weight, better still 3.5% to 10%, even better 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0115] Liquid fats The composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fat, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0116] According to the invention, said liquid fats are different from oxidation dyes and alkaline agents as described above, as well as from cationic surfactants, cationic guars, solid fats, and organic solvents and sequestering agents as described below.
[0117] Preferably, said liquid fats are different from fatty acids.
[0118] For the purposes of this invention, "fatty substance" means an organic compound Insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (water solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). Their structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain with at least six carbon atoms and / or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0119] The liquid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0120] Preferably the liquid fats used according to the invention are non-siliconized.
[0121] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.
[0122] For the purposes of the present invention, "liquid fat" or "oil" means a fat having a melting point (mp) less than or equal to 25°C (mp < 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) and "solid fat" means a fat having a melting point greater than 25°C (mp > 25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0123] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0124] More particularly, the liquid fat(s) may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in C6 to Ci6, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
[0125] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids, liquid or solid, more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0126] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0127] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0128] Perhydrosqualene is an example of an animal-derived hydrocarbon oil.
[0129] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from among liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, and avocado oils, or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812, and 818. by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and their mixtures.
[0130] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.
[0131] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol is used.
[0132] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the triglycerides mentioned above, one may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0133] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.
[0134] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate and 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such that 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0135] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.
[0136] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26-
[0137] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.
[0138] The composition may also include esters and diesters of sugars and fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the cationic guars described later.
[0139] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.
[0140] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.
[0141] Sugar and fatty acid esters can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.
[0142] These sugar and fatty acid esters can be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.
[0143] More particularly, mono- and di- esters of sugars and fatty acids are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0144] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0145] More preferably, the liquid fat or fats in the composition according to the invention are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid fatty alcohols in C8-C30, liquid esters of fatty acids in C1 to C26 and of fatty alcohols in C1 to C26 other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than triglycerides, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin; better from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin.
[0146] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one triglyceride oil of vegetable origin, preferably selected from jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, coconut oil, Brazil nut oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, linseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, shea butter oil, rapeseed oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, pomegranate oil, mango oil, and other oils. palm, cottonseed oil, and mixtures thereof; more preferably among avocado oil, olive oil, coconut oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, and mixtures thereof; and even better sunflower oil.
[0147] Preferably, sunflower oil with the INCI name helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil will be used.
[0148] Preferably, the total content of liquid fat(s) is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, better 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better 0.75% to 5% by weight, always better 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] Preferably, the total content of liquid fat(s) selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and their mixtures, is included in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, better 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better 0.75% to 5% by weight, always better 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0150] Preferably, the total content of vegetable triglyceride oil(s) is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, better 0.5% to 8% by weight, even better 0.75% to 5% by weight, always better 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] Cationic guars The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic guar gum.
[0152] Cationic guar gum is a cationic polysaccharide. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polysaccharide" means any non-siliconized (not containing silicon atoms) polysaccharide polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups. Cationic polysaccharides are not siliconized (do not contain a Si-O motif).
[0153] For the purposes of the invention, the cationic guar gums used in the composition according to the invention are not surfactants.
[0154] In particular, for the purposes of the invention, the cationic guar gums used in the composition according to the invention are different from the cationic surfactants as described below.
[0155] Cationic guar gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups, in particular trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.
[0156] Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of the guar gums bear cationic trialkylammonium groups.
[0157] Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the number of hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched by cationic trialkylammonium groups.
[0158] Among these trialkylammonium groups, trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups can be mentioned in particular.
[0159] Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, One can use guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride.
[0160] Cationic guar gums with the INCI names "hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride" and "guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride" are examples. Such products are marketed, notably under the names Jaguar C13S, Jaguar C15, Jaguar C17, or Jaguar C162, by the company Solvay.
[0161] More preferably, cationic guar gums are chosen from cationic guar gums with INCI name: “guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride”, cationic guar gums with INCI name: “hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride”, and mixtures thereof.
[0162] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of cationic polymer other than cationic guar gums.
[0163] The expression "devoid of cationic polymers other than cationic guar gums" means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any cationic polymers other than the cationic guar gums described in this application. In other words, the composition according to the invention does not preferably comprise one or more cationic polymers other than the cationic guar gums described in this application.
[0164] By "cationic polymer" is meant any non-siliconized polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups ionizable into anionic groups.
[0165] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 3% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0166] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) with INCI name: “guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride” in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 3% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0167] Preferably, the total content of cationic guar gum(s) with INCI name: "hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride" in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% and 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% at 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, always better from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0168] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range of 3.5 to 8; more preferably from 4 to 6.
[0169] More preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin, to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) of INCI name: “guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride” is in the range of 3 to 10; more preferably from 3.5 to 8; better from 4 to 6.
[0170] More preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin, to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) of INCI name: “hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride” is in the range of 3 to 10; more preferably from 3.5 to 8; better from 4 to 6.
[0171] Cationic surfactants Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one cationic surfactant.
[0172] By "cationic surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising only cationic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. In this description, an entity is qualified as "cationic" when it possesses at least one permanent positive charge or when it can be ionized into a positively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and does not comprise an anionic charge.
[0173] More preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
[0174] More preferably still, the cationic surfactant(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are chosen from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, cationic surfactants of formula (A) as defined below, and mixtures thereof.
[0175] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of the fatty amine type; and even better, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of the fatty amidoamine type comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain.
[0176] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two cationic surfactants. More preferably according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant of the fatty amine type and at least a second cationic surfactant of the quaternary ester type. More preferably according to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least a first cationic surfactant selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain and at least a second cationic surfactant of formula (A) as defined below.
[0177] Fatty amine-type cationic surfactants:
[0178] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (possibly (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated), their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0179] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.
[0180] Said cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.
[0181] Preferably, the cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated, nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0182] As examples of cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type, amidoamines may be cited. The amidoamines according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0183] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0184] Fatty amidoamine is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain.
[0185] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated, nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0186] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, particular mention may be made of amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.
[0187] Examples include the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures.
[0188] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; preferably from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, preferably brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0189] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they may "quaternize" in situ).
[0190] Preferably, cationic surfactants (ii) of the fatty amine type are selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; more preferably among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; best among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; and even better is brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0191] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 3% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0192] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amidoamine type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from among the fatty amidoamines is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 3% by weight, better from 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0193] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the fatty amidoamine type of formula RCONHR”N(R')2, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from the fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 previously described, is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 3% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0194] Quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants: For the purposes of the invention, "quaterary ester cationic surfactant" means a cationic surfactant comprising at least one carboxylic ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group.
[0195] Preferably, the quaternary ester-type cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from the following cationic surfactants of formula (A): yx 9 (A) in which: - RietR2 independently represent a C7-C40 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) CrC4 dihydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in Ci-C6, and - X represents an anion.
[0196] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.
[0197] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are saturated.
[0198] According to another embodiment of the invention, Ri and R2 are unsaturated.
[0199] Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon group in C7-C30, more preferably in C9-C2i, even more preferably in Cn-Cp.
[0200] Preferably, A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in C1-C2, even more preferably in C2. Preferably, A and A' are identical.
[0201] Preferably R3 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in Cr C2, better R3 represents a methyl group.
[0202] Preferably, R4 is chosen from a) alkyl groups in C1-C4, more preferably in CrC2, better a methyl group; b) hydroxyalkyl groups in Ci-C4, more preferably in C2-C3, better the CH2CH2OH group.
[0203] The anion X preferably represents a) a halide, in particular a chloride, a) bromide or iodide, b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, c) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate, d) an alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, j) any other ammonium-compatible ester-functioning anion.
[0204] More preferably, the anion X represents a) a halide or b) an alkyl(CrC4)sulfate. More preferably still, the anion X represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.
[0205] Said quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, in particular of formula (A), are different from the fatty amine-type cationic surfactants previously described.
[0206] Advantageously, said quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants may be in salt form, such as a halide salt, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, alkyl(Cr C4)sulfonate, alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, or a anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other compatible anion; preferably a halide or alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate salt.
[0207] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that: - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon group in C7-C30, more preferably in C9-C2i, even more preferably in Cn-Cp; preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated. - A and A' independently represent an alkyl group in C1-C4, more preferably in C1-C2, even more preferably in C2; preferably A and A' are identical; - R3 represents an alkyl group in CrC4, more preferably in CrC2, better R3 represents a methyl group; - R4 represents a hydroxyalkyl group in Ci-C4, more preferably a hydroxyalkyl group in C2-C3; or an alkyl group in CrC4, more preferably in CrC2, better a methyl group; - X represents a) a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, c) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate, d) an alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate, e) a phosphate, f) a nitrate, g) a tosylate, h) an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate; more preferably, the anion X represents a) a halide or b) an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate; more preferably still, the anion X represents a chloride ion or a methosulfate group.
[0208] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are such that: - RietR2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated C9-C2b hydrocarbon group, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from among the CrC2 alkyl groups and the C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' independently represent a Ci-C2 alkyl group; preferably A and A' are identical; and - X represents an anion chosen from among the halides and the alkyl(Ci-C4) sulfate groups.
[0209] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) are selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and their mixtures, even more preferentially among dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0210] Better, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of formula (A) in salt form, in particular a dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
[0211] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of the quaternary ester type, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of the quaternary ester type is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 8% by weight, better 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0212] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A), the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 8% by weight, better 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0213] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic surfactants of formula (A) selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of formula (A) selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, the dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, is within the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight,more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, better from 0.3% to 5% by weight, even better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0214] Preferably, when the composition includes one or more cationic surfactants, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 8% by weight, better 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0215] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type and of cationic surfactant(s) of the quaternary ester type in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably still 0.1% to 8% by weight, better 0.5% to 7% by weight, even better 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0216] The seizing agents: Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one sequestering (or chelating) agent.
[0217] The definition of a "sequestering agent" (or "chelating agent") is well known to those skilled in the art and refers to a compound or mixture of compounds capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic complex in which a compound (the sequestering or chelating agent) is coordinated to a metal ion, that is, it forms one or more bonds with the metal ion (forming a ring including the metal ion).
[0218] A sequestering (or chelating) agent generally comprises at least two electron-donating atoms that enable the formation of bonds with the metal ion.
[0219] Within the framework of the present invention, the sequestering agent(s) may be chosen from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives.
[0220] The salts include, in particular, salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium and substituted ammonium.
[0221] Examples of carboxylic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), and its salts such as disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, ethylenediamine-N,N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N,N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), the N,N'-bis(2-hydroxybenzyl)ethylenediamine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in documents EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-399,133),iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic, N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA)-based chelators (as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid, phosphonobutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts such as tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Akzo Nobel's Dissolvine GL38 or 45S.
[0222] Examples of mono- or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: diethylenetriamine-penta(methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E1HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP, or etidronic acid), and salts such as disodium etidronate and tetrasodium etidronate.
[0223] Examples of polyphosphoric acid-based chelating agents include the following compounds: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid.
[0224] According to one embodiment, the useful sequestering agent(s) according to the invention are phosphorus-based sequestering agents, that is to say, sequestering agents which comprise one or more phosphorus atoms, preferably at least two phosphorus atoms.
[0225] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from: - inorganic phosphorus derivatives preferably selected from phosphates and pyrophosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of alkali metals such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, preferably of alkali metals, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; possibly hydrated, and mixtures thereof; - organic phosphorus derivatives, such as organic (poly)phosphates and (poly)phosphonates, like etidronic acid and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts such as tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate and their mixtures.
[0226] Preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms covalently linked together by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom.
[0227] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be selected from inorganic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from alkali or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, preferably from alkali metal pyrophosphates, in particular sodium pyrophosphate (also called tetrasodium pyrophosphate).
[0228] The phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) may be selected from organic phosphorus derivatives, preferably comprising at least 2 phosphorus atoms. More preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) is / are selected from etidronic acid (also called 1-hydroxyethane 1,1-diphosphonic acid) and / or its alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, preferably alkali metals such as tetrasodium etidronate and disodium etidronate.
[0229] Thus, preferably, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are chosen from alkali metal pyrophosphates, etidronic acid and / or its alkali metal salts, and a mixture of these compounds.
[0230] In a particularly preferred manner, the phosphorus-containing sequestering agent(s) are selected from tetrasodium etidronate, disodium etidronate, etidronic acid, tetrasodium pyrophosphate and a mixture of these compounds.
[0231] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.
[0232] More preferably, the sequestering agent(s) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts (GLDA), and mixtures thereof.
[0233] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.
[0234] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestering agents, the total content of sequestering agent(s) is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight, better 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0235] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sequestering agents selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts (GLDA), and mixtures thereof, the total content of the sequestering agent(s) selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts (GLDA), and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.001% to 10% by weight, more preferably of 0.005% to 5% by weight, better 0.01% to 3% by weight, even better 0.05% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0236] Solid fats Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one solid fat, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0237] According to the invention, said solid fats are different from oxidation dyes, alkali agents, cationic surfactants, cationic guars, liquid fats and sequestering agents as described above, as well as organic solvents as described below.
[0238] Preferably, said solid fats are different from fatty acids.
[0239] The solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0240] Preferably the solid fats used according to the invention are non-siliconized.
[0241] For the purposes of the present invention, "solid fat" means a fat having a melting point (mp) greater than 25°C (mp > 25°C) at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).
[0242] As a reminder, for the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).
[0243] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s'.
[0244] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.
[0245] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.
[0246] Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. comprising 8 to 40, preferably delO with 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0247] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0248] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0249] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0250] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
[0251] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
[0252] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in Ci-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.
[0253] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0254] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.
[0255] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).
[0256] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.
[0257] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.
[0258] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.
[0259] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0260] Also of note are waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, from C8 to C32. Among these, isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, particularly that manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.
[0261] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.
[0262] As a wax, an alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate in C2O to C4O (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0263] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;
[0264] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0265] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.
[0266] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R1 designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C30; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 designates a hydrocarbon group in the C15-C26 position, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in the C1-C14 position ; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate an alpha-hydroxyalkyl group in Ci5-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.
[0267] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R2 designates a hydrogen atom and R3 designates a linear group saturated in C15.
[0268] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0269] Compounds can also be used in which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids in C[2-C22]; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a hydrocarbon radical in C[2-C22], saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0270] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.
[0271] Butters can also be used.
[0272] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.
[0273] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0274] We can mention in particular shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, Mowrah butter (Madhuca Eatifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.
[0275] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.
[0276] Shea butter is known to be extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.
[0277] The solid fat or fats are preferably chosen from solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, solid C9-C26 fatty acid carboxylic acid esters and C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0278] More preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol in the C8-C40 range; more preferably in the C10-C30 range. ; better in Ci2-C24, even better in Ci4-C22, always better chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol; even cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0279] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fats, the total content of solid fat(s) is in the range of 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably 1% to 35% by weight, better 5% to 30% by weight, even better 10% to 28% by weight, always better 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0280] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fats selected from solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, solid C9-C26 fatty acid carboxylic acid esters and C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, the total content of solid C8-C40 fatty alcohol(s), solid C9-C26 fatty acid carboxylic acid ester(s) and C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, is in the range of 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably 1% to 35% by weight, better 5% to 30% by weight, even better 10% to 28% by weight, always better 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0281] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, the total content of solid C8-C40 fatty alcohol(s) is in the range of 0.1% to 40% by weight, more preferably 1% to 35% by weight, better 5% to 30% by weight, even better 10% to 28% by weight, and still better 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Organic solvents
[0282] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise one or more organic solvents.
[0283] For the purposes of the invention, organic solvents are different from oxidation dyes, alkali agents, cationic surfactants of the fatty amine and quaternary ester type, cationic guars, CrC40 carboxylic acid and CrC4o alcohol esters, sequestering agents, and additional fatty substances as previously described.
[0284] Examples of organic solvents include: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) water-miscible polyols at room temperature (25 °C), in particular polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, and diglycerin; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether. as well as d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0285] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain, preferably C2-C30, more preferably C3-C12, even more preferably C3-C5, optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.
[0286] According to the invention, organic solvents do not carry an amine or thiol function and are in particular different from amino-alkanols such as diaminopropanols.
[0287] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or glycerin.
[0288] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more polyols selected from propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, glycerin and their mixture, preferably propylene glycol, glycerin, preferably glycerin.
[0289] Preferably, when present, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0290] Preferably, when present, the total polyol(s) content in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0291] Water Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises water.
[0292] Preferably, the total water content is in the range of 20% to 98% by weight, preferably 40% to 95% by weight, more preferably 50% to 92% by weight, even more preferably 60% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0293] pH Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 13, more preferably between 5 and 12.5, more preferably still between 5.5 and 12, better between 6 and 11.5, and even better between 8 and 11.
[0294] The pH can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents or acidifying agents usually used, or by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.
[0295] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0296] Among the alkalizing agents, alkaline agents as described above may be used.
[0297] Additives The composition according to the invention may further contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, such as antifoaming agents, thickening agents other than those previously described, moisturizing agents, clays, mineral fillers, UV filters, perfumes, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, reducing agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0298] Those skilled in the art shall take care to choose these potential additives and their quantities in such a way that they do not impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0299] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in thickened form, in particular in the form of a cream, and more particularly in the form of a smooth cream.
[0300] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 2,000 mPa.s (i.e. 2,000 cP), preferably greater than or equal to 3,000 mPa.s (i.e. 3,000 cP), more preferably greater than or equal to 4,000 mPa.s (i.e. 4,000 cP).
[0301] More preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition according to the invention, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, is in the range of 2,000 mPa.s to 20,000 mPa.s, preferably from 3,000 mPa.s to 18,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 3,500 mPa.s to 16,000 mPa.s, better from 3,800 mPa.s to 15,500 mPa.s, even better from 4,000 mPa.s to 15,400 mPa.s.
[0302] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 Rheometer, and at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being carried out after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0303] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkaline agent, (ii) at least one fat that is liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, (iii) at least one cationic guar gum, (iv) at least one cationic surfactant; preferably selected from fatty amine cationic surfactants, quaternary ester cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, (vi) optionally at least one sequestering agent, (vii) optionally at least one solid fat; preferably selected from solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols; and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is within the range of 3 to 10.
[0304] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one oxidation dye and / or at least one alkali agent, (ii) at least one triglyceride oil of vegetable origin, (iii) at least one cationic guar gum, (iv) at least one cationic surfactant; preferably selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain, cationic surfactants of formula (A) as described above, and mixtures thereof, (vi) at least one sequestering agent selected from diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and its salts, diethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its salts, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and its salts, etidronic acid and its salts, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid and its salts (GLDA) and mixtures thereof, (vii) at least one solid fat; preferably chosen from among the solid C8-C4o fatty alcohols; and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is within the range of 3 to 10.
[0305] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is the composition (M) comprising at least one oxidation dye and furthermore at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
[0306] For the purposes of this invention, "chemical oxidizing agent" means an oxidizing agent other than oxygen from the air.
[0307] The usable chemical oxidizing agent(s) (or bleaching agent(s)) may be selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, in particular sodium persulfate, potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate, peracids and oxidase enzymes (with their possible cofactors) from which Examples include peroxidases, 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricases and 4-electron oxygenases such as laccases, and mixtures thereof.
[0308] More preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) is or are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
[0309] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (M) according to the invention is in the range of 0.1% to 20%, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M) according to the invention.
[0310] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the composition (M) according to the invention, is in the range of 0.1% to 20%, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (M) according to the invention.
[0311] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is the composition (Cl) comprising at least one alkali agent, at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and not comprising any oxidation dye, as described above.
[0312] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (Cl) according to the invention is in the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl) according to the invention.
[0313] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the composition according to the invention, is in the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl) according to the invention.
[0314] According to another embodiment C2 of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a chemical oxidizing agent as defined above.
[0315] The process: Another object of the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a composition according to the invention as defined above.
[0316] Preferably, the treatment process according to the invention is a process for coloring, oxidizing and / or lightening keratin fibers.
[0317] When the treatment process according to the invention is an oxidation coloring process for keratin fibers, the composition according to the invention applied to the keratin fibers necessarily includes at least one oxidation dye, and possibly at least one chemical oxidizing agent, as described above.
[0318] When the treatment process according to the invention is a process for lightening keratin fibers, the composition according to the invention applied to the keratin fibers necessarily includes at least one alkaline agent and at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and does not include an oxidation dye, as described previously.
[0319] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibers comprising at least one step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a composition (Cl) according to the invention further comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.
[0320] Preferably, according to this embodiment, the process for treating keratin fibers, in particular a process for coloring keratin fibers, comprises at least one step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a composition (Cl) according to the invention comprising: (a) at least one oxidation colorant and optionally at least one alkaline agent, (b) at least one liquid fat at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, (c) at least one cationic guar gum, and (d) at least one chemical oxidizing agent, and for which the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range of 3 to 10. Said composition (Cl) does not include an oxidation colorant.
[0321] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in the composition (Cl) is in the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (Cl).
[0322] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in composition (Cl) is in the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of composition (Cl).
[0323] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular a process for oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, comprising at least one step (i) of applying to said keratin fibers a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising at least one oxidation dye and not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent, as described above.
[0324] According to this second embodiment of the invention, the process according to the invention preferably comprises the implementation of a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent as described above.
[0325] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) in composition (O) is in the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0326] Preferably, the total content of chemical oxidizing agent(s) selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof in the oxidizing composition (O) is in the range of 0.1% to 50%, more preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (O).
[0327] According to this second embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention can be applied to the keratin fibers simultaneously or sequentially with the oxidizing composition (O).
[0328] More preferably according to this second embodiment, the treatment process according to the invention is a coloring process comprising at least: (i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing: - of a composition (C2) according to the invention comprising: (a) at least one oxidation dye, (b) at least one liquid fat at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and (c) at least one cationic guar gum, the weight ratio of the total liquid fat content(s) to the total cationic guar gum content(s) being in the range of 3 to 10, and said composition (C2) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; and - a separate oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents such as those described above; then (ii) an application step on the keratin fibers of said composition (M).
[0329] This step (i) of preparing a composition (M) is advantageously carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition (M) to the keratin fibers.
[0330] Preferably, according to this second embodiment of the invention, the mixture of said composition (C2) according to the invention with the oxidizing composition (O) is carried out according to a weight ratio (C2): (O) within the range of 1:3 to 1:1; more preferably from 1:2 to 1:1.
[0331] The pH of the composition (M) generally ranges from 8 to 13, preferably from 8.5 to 12 and better 9 to 11.5.
[0332] Preferably, the dynamic viscosity of the composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, is greater than or equal to 200 mPa.s, more preferably greater than or equal to 300 mPa.s, more preferably still greater than or equal to 400 mPa.s, and even better greater than or equal to 410 mPa.s.
[0333] The dynamic viscosity of the compositions (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing as defined above, can be measured using a rheometer such as a Lamy RM 100 Rheometer, and at a rotation speed of 200 rpm, the measurement being carried out after 30 seconds of rotation, at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0334] Said oxidizing composition (O) possibly implemented in the process according to the invention advantageously comprises water.
[0335] The process for treating keratin fibers according to the present invention may optionally include additional steps, for example a step including a setting time after application and / or rinsing and / or drying.
[0336] The composition or compositions of the process according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet hair, and preferably to dry hair, as well as to all types of fibers, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.
[0337] The application of the composition(s) of the process according to the invention to the keratin fibers can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a paintbrush, by hand or by fingers.
[0338] The treatment process according to the invention is generally carried out at ambient temperature (between 15 and 30°C).
[0339] The process of the invention may, in particular, include a step of washing the hair before applying the composition(s) described above. It may also include a washing step after applying the composition(s) described above.
[0340] According to one embodiment of the invention, the process consists of applying to the keratin fibers an effective quantity of the composition or compositions described above, possibly kneading the fibers, possibly leaving the composition to rest on the fibers, and rinsing.
[0341] The exposure time of the compositions according to the invention and / or of composition (M) on the keratin fibers can be between a few seconds and 60 minutes and preferably between 30 seconds and 30 minutes.
[0342] Preferably, the process according to the invention includes a step of rinsing the keratin fibers with water after the step(s) of applying the compositions according to the invention and / or composition (M).
[0343] A possible drying step for the keratin fibers can be implemented.
[0344] Another object of the present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as defined above, for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0345] Preferably, the composition according to the invention as defined above is used for the oxidation coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
[0346] Device The invention also relates to a multi-compartment dyeing device or "kit" comprising: - at least one first compartment containing a composition according to the invention as defined above; and - at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition (O) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents as defined above.
[0347] The composition according to the invention and the oxidizing composition (O) are packaged in separate compartments, possibly accompanied by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges, or other similar tools.
[0348] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being intended to be limiting. Examples
[0349] Tested compositions: The colour composition Al according to the invention and the comparative composition B1 as described in the table below were prepared. The quantities are expressed as % by weight of active material (ma).
[0350] [Tables 1] Al Invention B1 Comparative Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.5 0.5 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium metho sulfate 0.9 0.9 Ammonium hydroxide 4.57 4.57 Cetyl esters 4 4 Cetearyl alcohol 16.1 16.1 Hydroxybenzomorpholine 0.35 0.35 2-Methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine 0.35 0.35 Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate 0.24 0.24 Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.5 - Hydroxypropyl guar - 0.5 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 2 2 Glyceryl stearate 2 2 Antioxidants; reducing agents qs qs Water qsp 100 qsp 100
[0351]
[0352]
[0353]
[0354]
[0355]
[0356]
[0357]
[0358] Protocol: At the time of use, the colour compositions Al and B1 are mixed with 1.5 times their weight of an oxidizing composition O at 5.5% by weight of H2O2. Each of the mixtures M(Ai+0) and M(Bi+o) is applied to strands of hair that are 90% natural white (BN), at a ratio of 5g of mixture to 1g of hair. After a 30-minute break at a temperature of 27°C, the hair is rinsed and dried in a dryer (60°C). The colorimetric measurements were carried out with a Konica Minolta CM 3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system. In this system, L* represents intensity: the lower the value of L*, the darker, more powerful, more intense the color. Results The results are summarized in the following table: [Table 2]: L* Mixture MAi +0 (invention) 33.85 Mixture MBi +o (comparative) 36.43 The mixture resulting from the composition of the Al colorant and the oxidizing composition leads to a more powerful color (lower L* value) compared to the comparative mixture.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: i. at least one oxidation colorant and / or at least one alkaline agent, ii. at least one fat liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and iii. at least one cationic guar gum, the weight ratio of the total content of the fat liquid(s) to the total content of the cationic guar gum(s) being in the range of 3 to 10.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oxidation dye(s) are selected from oxidation bases, couplers; preferably from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, metaphenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents, heterocyclic coupling agents, their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially among 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-y-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, and their mixtures.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkali agent(s) are selected from alkanolamines, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates, silicates or metasilicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, and mixtures thereof; better from ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from ammonium hydroxide.
4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of alkali agent(s) is in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 18% by weight, more preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, better from 3% to 12% by weight, better still from 3.5% to 10%, always better from 4% to 8% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid fat(s) are selected from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid C8-C30 fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids in C1 to C26 and of fatty alcohols in C1 to C26 other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than triglycerides, triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin; better from triglyceride oils of vegetable origin.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of liquid fat(s) is in the range of 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.75% to 5% by weight, and even better 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic guar gum(s) are selected from cationic guar gums with INCI name: "guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride", cationic guar gums with INCI name: "hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride", and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, better 0.2% to 2% by weight, even better 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) is in the range of 3.5 to 8; preferably 4 to 6.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic surfactant; preferably the cationic surfactant(s) are selected from fatty amine-type cationic surfactants, quaternary ester-type cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises at least two cationic surfactants; preferably at least one cationic surfactant of the fatty amine type and at least one cationic surfactant of the quaternary ester type.
12. Composition according to any one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) of the fatty amine type are selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; more preferably among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures;better among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; and always better brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
13. Composition according to any one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that the quaternary ester-type cationic surfactant(s) are selected from the following cationic surfactants of formula (A): H * fi (A) $ / "'K in which: - R3 and R4 independently represent a C7-C4o hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - R3 and R4 independently are chosen from a) C1-C4 alkyl groups, b) C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and c) C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group, and - X represents an anion.
14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one solid fat at 25°C and atmospheric pressure; preferably selected from solid C8-C40 fatty alcohols, solid C9-C26 fatty acid carboxylic acid esters and C9-C26 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from solid C8 fatty alcohols
15. ^40- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not comprise any chemical oxidizing agent.
16. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it further comprises at least one chemical oxidizing agent; preferably selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates, persalts such as perborates and persulfates, peracids, oxidase enzymes, and mixtures thereof; more preferably, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are selected from hydrogen peroxide, persalts, and mixtures thereof; preferably hydrogen peroxide.
17. A process for treating keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 16.
18. A process for coloring keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least: (i) a step of preparing a composition (M) resulting from the extemporaneous mixing of: - a composition (C2) comprising: (a) at least one oxidation dye, (b) at least one liquid fat at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, and (c) at least one cationic guar gum, the weight ratio of the total content of liquid fat(s) to the total content of cationic guar gum(s) being in the range of 3 to 10, and said composition (C2) not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent; with - a separate oxidizing composition (0) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents; and then (ii) a step of applying said composition (M) to the keratin fibers.
19. Use of the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 16, for the oxidation coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair.
20. A multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 15 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.