Composition comprising a colorant and / or an alkali, a polycarboxylic acid, a vegetable oil, a cationic associative polymer,

Abstract

Composition comprising a colorant and / or an alkali, a polycarboxylic acid, a vegetable oil, a cationic associative polymer. The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one alkali and / or colorant, at least one polycarboxylic acid, at least one vegetable oil in a specific concentration, and at least one cationic associative polymer. The invention also relates to a method for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, particularly hair, using this composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition comprising a colorant and / or an alkali agent, a polycarboxylic acid, a vegetable oil, a cationic associative polymer,

[0001] The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one alkali agent and / or colorant, at least one polycarboxylic acid, at least one vegetable oil in a particular content and at least one cationic associative polymer.

[0002] The invention also relates to a process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, in particular hair using this composition.

[0003] The invention also relates to the use of such a composition for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, and in particular hair.

[0004] For a long time, many people have sought to change the color of their hair, and in particular to cover their white hair.

[0005] It is known to dye keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, to obtain so-called permanent colors with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, notably oxidation bases such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols, or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones, or pyrazolopyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing agents, can give rise, through an oxidative condensation process, to colored compounds.

[0006] It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with color couplers or modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows for a rich palette of colors.

[0007] However, the implementation of these dye compositions may present a number of disadvantages.

[0008] Indeed, after application to keratin fibers, the resulting coloring power may not be entirely satisfactory, or may even be weak, leading to a limited range of colors. Furthermore, they do not provide complete satisfaction in terms of the cosmetic properties of the hair.

[0009] The dyes may also not be sufficiently tenacious against external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration and may also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in color is too great along the same keratin fiber which is differently sensitized between its tip and its root.

[0010] Lightening compositions may not be sufficiently effective to achieve very light shades.

[0011] Furthermore, coloring and / or lightening compositions often include raw materials for which regulatory requirements are becoming increasingly stringent. It is therefore necessary to develop compositions comprising alternative compounds.

[0012] Consumers are also looking for more environmentally friendly colouring and / or lightening products, in particular based on ingredients of natural origin, and which have good qualities of use, are easy to use and lead to good dyeing and / or lightening properties.

[0013] Thus, there is a real need to make available a composition for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, which is more environmentally friendly and does not have the disadvantages mentioned above, that is to say, which is capable of leading to a good rise, intensity and chromaticity of the color when it includes one or more colorants and / or good lightening performance while having low selectivity and good tenacity and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance, or good lightening performance, allowing, in particular, to obtain aesthetic blondes, even after a period of storage, while having good qualities of use and leading to good cosmetic properties, in particular, in terms of homogeneity of smooth touch.

[0014] These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a composition comprising: - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants and / or at least one alkaline agent; - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic with 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one cationic associative polymer; - at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0015] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.

[0016] The composition according to the invention makes it possible, in particular, to achieve powerful, intense, and non-selective chromatic colorations, that is to say, colorations that are homogeneous along the fiber. It also makes it possible to achieve different shades in a very wide color palette, including lighter shades. In addition, it allows for good color development.

[0017] This composition also makes it possible to cover depigmented keratin fibers, such as white hair, particularly well.

[0018] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention exhibits good performance qualities, including a gel texture allowing for quick and easy mixing with an oxidizing agent if necessary, a smoother and thicker appearance, and easy and even distribution throughout the hair. The composition according to the invention also exhibits good stability over time, in particular minimal or no change in its viscosity during storage.

[0019] The invention also relates to a kit comprising in a first compartment a composition as defined above and in a second compartment an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

[0020] By "chemical oxidizing agent" according to the invention, we mean an oxidizing agent other than oxygen from the air.

[0021] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and examples that follow.

[0022] In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the bounds of a range of values ​​are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".

[0023] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". Dye(s)

[0024] The composition according to the invention may include one or more colorant(s).

[0025] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more colorants.

[0026] The colorants are chosen from direct colorants, oxidation colorants and their mixtures.

[0027] These direct colorants can be synthetic or natural.

[0028] By "direct dye," we mean colored species. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially onto the fiber.

[0029] These synthetic direct dyes are for example chosen from those classically used in direct dyeing, and among which we can mention all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as benzene, azo, hydrazono, (hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methinic, carbonyl, azinic, porphyrinic, metalloporphyrinic, quinonic and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine and their mixtures.

[0030] Among the benzene nitro direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-B-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis(B-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(B-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-([3-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; l-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; l-Methoxy-2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene;l-[3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-[3,Y-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-[3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; lP-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; l-Hydroxy-6-bis-([3-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; l-[3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-[3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene. ;

[0031] Among the azo direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

[0032] Among the direct hydrazono colorants, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.

[0033] Among the aryl nitrate direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3, 4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, A,A'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-pheny lenediamine.

[0034] Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, we can cite: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 (also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.

[0035] Among the quinone direct dyes, the following may be mentioned: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-[3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-([3,Y-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

[0036] Among the direct azinic dyes, we can mention: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

[0037] Among the direct indamine dyes, we can mention: 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino- 5-[bis-([3-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-l,4-benzoquinone, 3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-l,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3'-chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine.

[0038] Natural direct dyes are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morine, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

[0039] Among the useful orthodiphenols according to the invention, the following may be mentioned: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L-DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-Epicatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin, (-)-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), isoquercetin, pomiferin, esculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, mangiferin, butein, maritimetin, sulfuretin, robtein, betanin, pericampylinone A, theaflavin, proanthocyanidin A2, proanthocyanidin B2, proanthocyanidin Cl, procyanidins DP 4-8, tannic acid, purpurogallin, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and natural extracts containing them.

[0040] When the composition includes at least one direct colorant, preferably, it / they are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably of 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, better 0.05 to 5%, even better 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0041] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more colorants chosen from oxidation colorants.

[0042] Oxidation dyes can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.

[0043] Preferably, the oxidation dye(s) comprise one or more oxidation bases.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.

[0045] Oxidation bases may be present in the form of salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.

[0046] The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium, potassium, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0047] Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases represent more particularly the hydrates of said oxidation bases and / or the association of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0048] By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of salts.

[0049] Among the para-phenylenediamines that can be mentioned, examples include para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenedianiine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-([3-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-l-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.

[0050] Among the aforementioned para-phenylenediamines, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[α-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of their salts.

[0051] Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines that can be mentioned, examples include N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis([3-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and addition salts corresponding, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0052] Among the para-aminophenols that are mentioned, we find for example para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-([3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and addition salts, solvates and solvates of salts.

[0053] Among the ortho-aminophenols that can be mentioned, we find for example 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0054] Among the heterocyclic bases that can be mentioned, we find for example the derivatives of pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole.

[0055] Among the pyridine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds for example described in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0056] Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in French patent application FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine,2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrid-7-yl) (2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridin-6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-l-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0057] More particularly, the oxidation bases that are useful in the present invention are chosen from among the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted at carbon atom 2 by: a) a (di)(Cl-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group being able to be substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino, imidazolium group; b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, possibly cationic, possibly substituted by one or more (Cl-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(Cl-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; or c) a (Cl-C6)alkoxy group possibly substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a [3-hydroxyalkoxy] group and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

[0058] Among the pyrimidine derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-Dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

[0059] Among the pyrazole derivatives that can be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-(4'-chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, the 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-l-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-Diamino-3-methyl-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-l,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, l-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-([3-hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and / or solvates of the salts. 4,5-diamino-l-([3-methoxyethyl)pyrazole may also be used.

[0060] A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt solvated.

[0061] Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and their corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1H,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-diliydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-lH,6H-pyridazino[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 4-amino-l,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-l-yl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-, 6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one their salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts.

[0062] Preferably, 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used.

[0063] Preferably, 4,5-diamino-l-([3-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH,5H-pyrazolo[l,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and / or 2-[3-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyridine and / or a corresponding salt, solvated and / or salt-solvated, will be used as heterocyclic bases.

[0064] Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from among para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.

[0065] When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably the oxidation base(s) is / are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5%, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0066] According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition comprises at least one oxidation base selected from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[>-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof, this (they) is (are) present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5%, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation bases selected from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

[0068] The oxidation dye(s) can also be chosen from one or more couplers, which can be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for staining keratin fibers.

[0069] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.

[0070] Among the useful couplers according to the invention, one can in particular mention meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, agents of naphthalene-based coupling and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of their salts.

[0071] Examples include 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphtol, 2-methyl-1-naphtol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[l,5-a]benzimidazole, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol,3-Aminophenol, 3-Amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts, and the corresponding mixtures.

[0072] Preferably the coupler(s) is or are chosen from: 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof.

[0073] In general, the addition salts of the couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are in particular chosen from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

[0074] Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and / or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched alcohol in the C4 to C5 range, such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

[0075] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation couplers selected from resorcinol, its addition salts, its solvates, and the solvates of its salts.

[0076] More preferably, the composition according to the invention is free from oxidation couplers selected from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

[0077] When the composition includes one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol as well as their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, as well as their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, as well as their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts, varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and / or the solvates of their salts varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] Preferably, the total content of the colorants varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] When present, the total content of oxidation dyes varies preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkaline agent

[0084] The composition according to the invention may include at least one alkaline agent.

[0085] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkaline agent.

[0086] The useful alkaline agents according to the invention can be mineral, organic or hybrid alkaline agents.

[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "alkaline agent" and "alkalinizing agents" are used interchangeably.

[0088] The mineral alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonium hydroxide, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali or alkaline earth metal phosphates such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof.

[0089] The organic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, organic amines other than alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, 1,3-diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

[0090] By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in CrC8 bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0091] Organic amines selected from among alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or not, in C1-C4, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0092] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof.

[0093] Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from histidine, lysine, arginine, omithine, and citrulline.

[0094] The organic amine can also be chosen from among heterocyclic organic amines. In particular, in addition to histidine already mentioned among amino acids, pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, and benzimidazole can be cited. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. Carnosine, anserine, and balenine are examples of amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention. The amine The organic compound can also be chosen from compounds containing a guanidine function. Examples of such amines other than arginine that can be used in the present invention include creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid, and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.

[0095] In particular, guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride can be used as hybrid compounds.

[0096] The useful alkali agent(s) according to the invention is / are preferably chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide, better from alkanolamines, even better, monoethanolamine.

[0097] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonium hydroxide.

[0098] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises ammonium hydroxide and monoethanolamine.

[0099] The total content of the alkali agent(s) varies, when present, preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, better from 2 to 20% by weight, even better from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0100] According to a particular embodiment, the total alkanolamine content, preferably monoethanolamine, varies preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 1 to 20% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, even better from 4 to 20% by weight, or even from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9.0 and 12; more preferably between 9.5 and 11.

[0102] The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) commonly used in dyeing keratin fibers such as those described above, or by means of buffer systems known to those skilled in the art. Polycarboxylic acid(s)

[0103] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: R1-N-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which RI represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and R2 represents a CH2COOH group when RI represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when RI is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents a linear or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a cyclic group with 3 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0104] Said polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) according to the invention are different from dyes, alkaline agents, as described above, as well as cationic associative polysaccharides and fats as described below.

[0105] For the purposes of the present invention, "solvates" represent hydrates as well as the association with C1-C4 linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol.

[0106] More specifically, polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) correspond to: - compounds comprising four carboxylic acid functions, where RI represents a hydrogen atom and R2 represents a -CH2-COOH group, or where RI represents the -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or where RI represents the -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; - compounds comprising three carboxylic acid functions, where RI represents the group -CH(CH3)-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom, or where RI represents a group -(CH2)2-N(COR3)-CH2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom; and to - compounds comprising two carboxylic acid functions, where RI represents the -CH2CH2OH group and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0107] Preferably, RI represents the group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH and R2 represents a hydrogen atom.

[0108] Polycarboxylic acids of formula (I) may be in the form of pure enantiomers, preferably of L configuration, or in the form of mixtures, in particular racemic mixtures.

[0109] The salts of the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are preferably chosen from alkali metal salts, alkaline earth metal salts, salts of transition metals, organic amine salts, their ammonium and substituted ammonium salts and their mixtures.

[0110] Examples of alkali metal salts include sodium (Na+) and potassium (K+) salts, while examples of alkaline earth metal salts include calcium (Ca2+) and magnesium (Mg2+) salts.

[0111] For the purposes of the present invention, "transition metal" means a metal having an incomplete d subshell; more particularly in the oxidation state II, such as cobalt (Co2+), iron (Fe2+), manganese (Mn2+), zinc (Zn2+) and copper (Cu2+).

[0112] With regard to organic amine salts, one can mention primary, secondary or tertiary amine salts, or even alkanolamine salts. These amines have one or more radicals, identical or not, of the alkyl type, linear or branched, in the order Cl to C2O, possibly including a heteroatom such as oxygen.

[0113] Among the salts of these compounds, alkali metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium or potassium salts.

[0114] Preferably, the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) used in the context of the present invention are selected from methyl-glycine diacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N'-triacetic ethylenediamine acid, N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, iminodisuccinic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures; and more preferentially among N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.

[0115] Better still, the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl) aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and their mixtures.

[0116] Preferably, the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) used according to the present invention are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its alkali metal salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers; better still among N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)- L-glutamate), and their mixtures.

[0117] Preferably, the compound with the name Tetrasodium Glutamate diacetate (INCI name) will be used, such as Dissolvine GL38 or 47S marketed by Akzo Nobel.

[0118] Preferably, the total content of polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and their solvates, in the composition is in the range of 0.001% to 15% by weight; more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight; more preferably still from 0.01% to 8%; better from 0.05% to 5% by weight; even better from 0.075% to 2% by weight; and still better from 0.09% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0119] Preferably, the total content of N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid and tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)- L-glutamate in the composition is in the range of 0.001% to 15% by weight; more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight; more preferably still from 0.01% to 8%; better from 0.05% to 5% by weight; even better from 0.075% to 2% by weight; and still better from 0.09% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

[0120] Preferably, the total tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) content in the composition is in the range of 0.001% to 15% by weight; more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight; more preferably still from 0.01% to 8%; better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight; even better from 0.075% to 2% by weight; and still better from 0.09% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Cationic associative polymer(s)

[0121] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic associative polymers.

[0122] It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0123] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0124] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or hydrocarbon chain polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0125] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may originate from a Fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, and decyl alcohol. It can also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as polybutadiene.

[0126] Among the associative cationic polymers that may be used, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures:

[0127] • (A) cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the The following general formula: RX-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R' in which: R and R', whether identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L"; L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P', identical or different, represent a group containing an amine function bearing or not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusively, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusively and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusively, n, m, and p are each independently of the others between 0 and 1000 inclusively, the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

[0128] Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the R and R' groups at the ends of the chain.

[0129] A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (la) described above in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L”, n and p are integers which are inclusively between 1 and 1000 and L, L', L”, P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0130] Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the formula (la) above in which: - n=p=0 (the polymers do not contain motifs derived from a monomer with an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation), - Protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by hydrophobic alkylating agents, i.e., compounds of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate.

[0131] Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to the above formula (la) in which: R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' both independently represent a group containing a quaternary amine, n = p = 0, and L, L', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

[0132] The number-average molecular weight (Mn) of cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between inclusively 400 and 500,000, in particular between inclusively 1,000 and 400,000 and ideally between inclusively 1,000 and 300,000.

[0133] By hydrophobic group is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical with a perfluorinated or siliconized chain. When it designates a hydrocarbon radical, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0134] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group originates from a monofunctional compound.

[0135] By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

[0136] When X and / or X' denote a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and / or X' may represent one of the following formulas: in which: R2 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; Ri and R3, identical or different, designate a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P; A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

[0137] The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula: —Z —C - NH - R.- NH~€ — Z— H 4 H OO in which: Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH- ; and R4 represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, with or without a saturated or unsaturated ring, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.

[0138] The groups P and P', comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas: R, —Rg ~~ N ” R 7 R* or ~ CH 1 in which: R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined previously; R6, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined previously; Rio represents an alkylene group, linear or branched, possibly unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms selected from N, O, S and P, and A is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate.

[0139] As regards the meaning of Y, a hydrophilic group is understood to be a water-soluble group, whether polymeric or not.

[0140] By way of example, when not polymers are involved, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be cited.

[0141] When, according to a preferred embodiment, the polymer is hydrophilic, examples include polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0142] The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (la) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds possessing hydrogen-labile functional groups. The hydrogen-labile functional groups may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol groups, which, after reaction with the diisocyanate groups, give polyurethanes, polyureas, and polythioureas, respectively. The term "polyurethanes" in the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes proper, polyureas, and polythioureas, as well as copolymers thereof.

[0143] A first type of compound used in the preparation of polyurethane of formula (la) is a compound comprising at least one amine functional group. This compound may be multifunctional, but preferably it is difunctional, that is to say, according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms attached, for example, to a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine, or thiol functional group. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds may also be used in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

[0144] As previously stated, this compound may comprise more than one amine functional group. It is then a polymer bearing a repetition of the amine functional group.

[0145] This type of compound can be represented by one of the following formulas: HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P')p-ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

[0146] By way of example, we can cite N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyl-diethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

[0147] The second compound used in the preparation of polyurethane of formula (la) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is defined above.

[0148] By way of example, we can cite methylenediphenyldiisocyanate, methylenecyclohexanediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalenediisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

[0149] A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (la).

[0150] This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

[0151] By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. When this compound has a polymer chain, it may be, for example, alpha-hydroxy hydrogenated polybutadiene.

[0152] The hydrophobic group of polyurethane of formula (la) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound having at least one tertiary amine motif. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

[0153] The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. Alternatively, a mixture may have a low percentage of the multifunctional compound.

[0154] The hydrogen-labile functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these hydrogen-labile functions.

[0155] By way of example, when not dealing with polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol can be cited.

[0156] When dealing with a hydrophilic polymer, examples include polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether, and in particular poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

[0157] The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (la) is optional. Indeed, the quaternary or protonated amine motifs may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

[0158] Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes containing such a group are preferred.

[0159] • (B) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0160] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.

[0161] Preferably, hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) may be cited: in which: - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, linear or branched, in Ci-C30, and Q represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl; - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q' in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, in CrC3o, and Q' represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl, linear or branched, in C8-C30; - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

[0162] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, in the C8-C30 configuration; better still in the C10-C24 configuration, or even in the C10-C14 configuration; the dodecyl radical (C12) may be mentioned in particular. Preferably, the or the other radicals represent a linear or branched alkyl in C1-C4, notably methyl.

[0163] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents a linear or branched alkyl group in the C8-C30 range; better still in the C10-C24 range, or even in the C10-Cm range; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched alkyl group in the C1-C4 range, especially a methyl group.

[0164] Even better, R can be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25) (CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.

[0165] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.

[0166] Aryl radicals preferably refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0167] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names: - Polyquaternium-24, such as the QUATRISOFT LM 200® product, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (alkyl in Cl8) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.

[0168] Also citeable are hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R representing trimethylammonium chloride Cl₂,(CH₃)₃N⁺⁻ and R' representing dimethyldodecylammonium chloride Cl₂,(CH₃)₂(Ci₂H₂₅)N⁺⁻. This type of polymer is known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; commercial products include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.

[0169] More specifically, polymers of formula (Ib) are, for example, those whose viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferably between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs. SOFTCAT POLYMER SX-1300X, with a viscosity between 1000 and 2000 cPs, can also be used. [See internet information]

[0170] • (C) cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising: -a) at least one vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type monomer; -b) at least one monomer of the following structures (le) or (Ile): FU GHpc^J-CO-X^fY^CCH^CH^O)^ Ra (THE) x—(Y)—(CH2^ (Hç) R4 in which: - X designates an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical, - Ri and R6 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical - R2 designates a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, - R3, R4 and R5 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched Ci-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc): ----(¥*)(—H( R.-,) - Ch ;— R^ (| Ile) - Y, Yi and Y2 designate, independently of each other, a linear or branched C2-Ci6 alkylene radical, - R7 designates a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched Ci C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, - R8 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C30 alkyl radical, - p, q and r denote, independently of each other, 0 or 1; - m and n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging inclusively from 0 to 100, - x denotes an integer ranging inclusively from 1 to 100, - Z denotes an anionic counterion of organic or mineral acid, such as halide like chloride or bromide or mesylate; provided that: - at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 designates a linear or branched C8-C30 alkyl radical, - if m and / or n is not equal to zero, then q is equal to 1, - if m=n=0, then p or q equals 0.

[0171] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and can also be block polymers.

[0172] Preferably the counter-ion Z of the monomers of formula (le) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ion, tosylate ion.

[0173] Preferably R3, R4 and R5 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched Ci-C30 alkyl radical.

[0174] More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (le) for which, preferably, m and n are equal to zero.

[0175] The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound with (IVc) structure: CH(RJ^C(R.SÛ)-^ 0 \ / (Wc) (CHÀ in which: - s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6, - R9 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, - Rio designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, provided that at least one of the R9 and Rio radicals designates a hydrogen atom.

[0176] Even more preferably, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

[0177] The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

[0178] By way of particularly preferred compounds, the following terpolymers comprising at least: a) a monomer of formula (IVc), b) a monomer of formula (le) in which p=l, m=n=q=0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a linear or branched C8-C24 alkyl radical, and c) a monomer of formula (Ile) in which p=l, m=n=q=0, R3 and R4 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.

[0179] Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00 / 68282.

[0180] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular: - the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate, - the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamide tosylate, - vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate terpolymers or lauryldimethylmethacrylamide chloride.

[0181] The vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / lauryl dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is notably offered by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10® or Styleze W20L® (INCI name Poly quaternium- 55).

[0182] The molecular weight (Mw) of cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and preferably between 400,000 and 800,000.

[0183] • (D) cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO2004 / 024779.

[0184] Among these polymers, we can mention in particular the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising: - a di(alkyl CrC4) amino(alkyl Ci-C6) methacrylate, - one or more alkyl esters of Ci-C30 and (meth)acrylic acid, - a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide motif), - a polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol 30 / 5 allyl ether, - a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and - ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

[0185] Such a polymer is for example the compound marketed by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL AQUA CC® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer.

[0186] Advantageously, the cationic associative polymer(s) are chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, preferably from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

[0187] Preferably, the cationic associative polymer(s) are chosen from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one alkyl group containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably ranging from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably ranging from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0188] More preferably, the cationic associative polymer is a cationic associative polymer having the INCI name polyquatemium-67.

[0189] Advantageously, the total content of the cationic associative polymer(s) ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.075 to 3% by weight, better from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] Advantageously, the total content of the cationic associative polymer(s) selected from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one alkyl group containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 16 carbon atoms, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.075 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Vegetable oil(s)

[0191] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more vegetable oil(s).

[0192] For the purposes of this invention, "oil" means a "fatty substance" which is liquid at a temperature of 30°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0193] The viscosity at 30°C is preferably less than 1200 cps, better less than 500 cps (defined for example from the Newtonian plateau determined using an ARG2 rheometer from TA Instruments equipped with a planar cone geometry moving head with a diameter of 60 mm and an angle of 2 degrees over a shear stress range from 0.1 Pa to 100 Pa).

[0194] The term "fats" means an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0195] The term "non-siliconized oil or fat" means an oil or fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and "siliconized oil or fat" means an oil or fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0196] More particularly, the vegetable oils useful according to the invention are chosen from non-siliconized oils and in particular triglyceride oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and their mixtures.

[0197] Preferably, the vegetable oils useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated ethers.

[0198] Preferably the vegetable oils useful according to the invention are not fatty acids in salified form giving water-soluble soaps.

[0199] It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0200] Among the triglycerides of vegetable origin, we can mention the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, coconut oils, the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil.

[0201] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the vegetable oil or oils are chosen from triglycerides of vegetable origin and their mixtures.

[0202] According to another particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the oils are chosen from oils of natural origin, more particularly oils of vegetable origin, preferably jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive, coconut, wheat germ, Brazil nut, marula, corn, argan, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, flaxseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor, avocado, shea butter oil as well as rapeseed, borage, evening primrose, pomegranate, mango, palm, cottonseed oil, or mixtures thereof.

[0203] More specifically, vegetable oils are chosen from jojoba oil, olive oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, argan oil, sunflower oil, or mixtures thereof, preferably from jojoba oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, or mixtures thereof.

[0204] Preferably, coconut oil with the INCI name Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil will be used.

[0205] According to a particular embodiment, the total quantity of vegetable oil(s) varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 0.8 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 1.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0206] Fatty acid(s) The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise one or more fatty acids.

[0207] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty acids.

[0208] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. They may optionally be hydroxylated.

[0209] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0210] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and an alkyl chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in particular unsaturated, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0211] Preferably, the fatty acids comprise at least one carboxylic acid group and one unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0212] More preferably, the fatty acids according to the invention are chosen from compounds of RC(O)OH structure in which R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, better from 14 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0213] For the purposes of the present invention, the fatty acids present in the composition are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0214] Fatty acids may be selected from solid fatty acids, liquid fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

[0215] For the purposes of this invention, "solid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point at 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0216] The solid fatty acids used in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, arachidic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0217] In a particularly preferred manner, the solid fatty acid(s) are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearic acid.

[0218] For the purposes of this invention, "liquid fatty acid" means a fatty acid having a melting point of less than or equal to 30°C, preferably less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure, more preferably less than or equal to 20°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

[0219] The liquid fatty acid(s) according to the invention can be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, isostearic acid, isopalmitic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.

[0220] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention are liquid fatty acids, in particular chosen from fatty acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group and an unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chain comprising 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0221] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention are liquid fatty acids, in particular chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably oleic acid.

[0222] Preferably, the fatty acids present in the composition according to the invention are lauric, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, undecylenic, isocetyl, isostearyl, palmitic, stearic, myristic acids, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.

[0223] Preferably, the fatty acid or acids are selected from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably oleic acid.

[0224] Advantageously, the fatty acid(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0225] In a particular embodiment, advantageously, the liquid fatty acid(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0226] Fatty substances other than fatty acids and other than vegetable oils

[0227] The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more fats different from fatty acids and different from vegetable oils.

[0228] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats different from fatty acids and different from vegetable oils.

[0229] The term "fats" means an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% by weight and preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0230] The fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0231] Preferably the useful fats according to the invention are non-siliconized.

[0232] The term "non-siliconized fat" means a fat that does not contain Si-O bonds and the term "siliconized fat" means a fat that contains at least one Si-O bond.

[0233] The useful fats according to the invention may be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. Liquid fats are defined as fats having a melting point less than or equal to 30°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa), and solid fats are defined as fats having a melting point greater than 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0234] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0235] More particularly, the liquid fat or fats may be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to C16 range, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-siliconized oils of animal origin, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols other than vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0237] As regards liquid hydrocarbons in the C6 to Cl6 range, these may be linear, branched, possibly cyclic, and are preferably chosen from among the alkanes. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, tridecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0238] Liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or petrolatum (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0239] Perhydrosqualene can be cited as an example of hydrocarbon oils of animal origin.

[0240] As regards fluorinated oils, these can be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PCI" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL®" by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by 3M.

[0241] Liquid fatty alcohols suitable for implementing the invention are particularly selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, and linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol is used.

[0242] With regard to liquid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, other than the vegetable oils mentioned above, one may mention in particular the esters of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic acids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated mono- or poly-aliphatic alcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

[0243] Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.

[0244] Among the monoesters, the following may be mentioned: dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; erucate octyldodecyl; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

[0245] Preferably among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethyl-2-hexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof shall be used.

[0246] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in Cl to C22 and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols in C2 to C26 can also be used.

[0247] Examples include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; din-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

[0248] The composition may also include, as a fatty acid ester, esters and diesters of sugars of fatty acids in the C6 to C30 range, preferably in the C12 to C22 range. It should be noted that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds possessing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups, and comprising at least four carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides other than the nonionic polysaccharides described later.

[0249] Suitable sugars may be cited for example sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives like methylglucose.

[0250] Sugar and fatty acid esters may be selected in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and fatty acids in the ranges of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

[0251] Esters can also be selected from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and their mixtures.

[0252] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or mixtures thereof, such as mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

[0253] In particular, mono- and di- esters are used, and in particular mono- or di- oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.

[0254] An example is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0255] Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

[0256] According to one embodiment, the fats other than fatty acids and other than vegetable oils useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fats, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, liquid fatty alcohols and their mixtures, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols.

[0257] Preferably, the liquid fat or fats are chosen from among liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleic alcohol.

[0258] Solid fats preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

[0259] The solid fat(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

[0260] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated.

[0261] Solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0262] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched (mono)alcohols, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0263] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0264] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidic alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0265] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably selected from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol esters.

[0266] Preferably, these solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0267] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0268] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0269] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0270] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

[0271] In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

[0272] Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

[0273] We can also mention microcrystalline waxes in C20 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

[0274] We can also mention PM 500 polyethylene wax marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

[0275] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in the C8 to C32 range. Among these, we can mention in particular isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

[0276] Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM, can also be used.

[0277] As a wax, a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used, alone or in a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

[0278] It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0279] Waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, Camauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the BERTIN company (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.

[0280] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.

[0281] Ceramides or their analogues that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which: R 1 designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid in Ci6-C30; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, where n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; R3 designates a hydrocarbon group in Ci5-C26, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group being able to be substituted by one or more alkyl groups in Ci-C14; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate an alpha-hydroxy alkyl group in Ci5-C26, the hydroxyl group possibly being esterified by an alpha-hydroxy acid in Ci6-C30.

[0282] The ceramides most particularly preferred are the compounds for which RI denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from fatty acids in Ci6-C22; R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 3 denotes a linear group saturated in Ci5.

[0283] Preferably, ceramides are used in which R 1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids in Ci4-C30; R 2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R 3 designates a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0284] Compounds can also be used in which R 1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids in C[2-C22]; R 2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R 3 designates a hydrocarbon radical in C[2-C22], saturated or unsaturated and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.

[0285] As particularly preferred compounds, we may also mention 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol, and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide, and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

[0286] Solid fats are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0287] Butters can also be used.

[0288] For the purposes of this invention, "butter" (also called "pasty fat") refers to a lipophilic fatty compound with a solid / liquid phase change. reversible and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting point above 25°C and a melting point below 60°C.

[0289] Preferably the particular butter(s) are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

[0290] We can mention in particular shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat (tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca or Bassia Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca Eatifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), Kokum butter (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia Ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis) and cocoa butter, sunflower butter.

[0291] Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.

[0292] As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called "almonds" or "nuts") of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat, which is usually extracted and refined.

[0293] Preferably, the fats other than fatty acids and other than vegetable oils useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fats, preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols.

[0294] Preferably, the liquid fat or fats are chosen from among liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleic alcohol.

[0295] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fats different from fatty acids and different from vegetable oils, the total content of the fat(s) different from fatty acids and vegetable oils varying, preferably, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and better from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0296] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fats other than fatty acids and other than oils vegetable, the total content of the liquid fat(s) other than fatty acids and vegetable oils varying, preferably, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and better from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0297] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty alcohols, the total content of the liquid fatty alcohol(s) other than fatty acids and vegetable oils varying, preferably, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and better still from 1.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Polyols

[0298] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise one or more polyols.

[0299] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more polyols.

[0300] For the purposes of this invention, "polyol" means an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) on different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0301] Preferably, the polyols are different from fatty alcohols as defined above.

[0302] More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, more preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, more preferably still from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups.

[0303] The polyol(s) are preferably selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerin, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof

[0304] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more polyols selected from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycerin, propane-1,3-diol, and mixtures thereof.

[0305] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more polyols selected from propane-1,3-diol, glycerin and their mixture.

[0306] Advantageously, the polyol(s) are present in a total content varying from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactant(s)

[0307] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise one or more surfactant(s), said surfactants being different from the fatty acids previously described.

[0308] The composition according to the invention may, in addition, comprise at least one non-ionic surfactant.

[0309] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more surfactant(s), preferably one or more non-ionic surfactant(s).

[0310] Said non-ionic surfactants may be selected from: - alcohols, in particular fatty alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl(Ci-C2o)phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated and / or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol groups ranging from 2 to 30; - ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; - polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having 2 to 30 ethylene oxide motifs, polyglycerol fatty amides having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; - ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (or oxyethylenated sorbitan ester) preferably having 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units, - fatty acid esters of sucrose, - polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters, preferably polyoxyethylated, having from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylated vegetable oils, - N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives, - amine oxides such as (alkyl C10-14)amine oxides or N-(acyl C10-C14)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides. - non-ionic surfactants of the alkyl(poly)glycoside type.

[0311] The composition according to the present invention comprises, preferably, one or more polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohols.

[0312] Fatty alcohol, in the sense of the invention, means an alcohol comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms and even more preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0313] Polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohols preferably have a number of alkylene oxide units, especially at C2 4, better at C2 3, greater than or equal to 2, better from 2 to 100, more preferably from 2 to 50, better from 2 to 20, better still from 2 to 10.

[0314] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohols are chosen from among the oxyethylated fatty alcohols, in which the fatty alcohol chain is at C8-C30, preferably at C10-C28, preferably again at C10-C24, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprising at least 2 oxyethylated groups, such as, for example, the products addition products of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups and more particularly those containing 4 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Laureth-4 or Laureth-12 in CTFA names); addition products of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, in particular those containing 4 to 100 oxyethylene groups and more particularly those containing 6 to 30 oxyethylene groups (Beheneth-6 to Beheneth-30 in CTFA names); addition products of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), in particular those containing 4 to 100 oxyethylene groups (Ceteareth-4 to Ceteareth-100 in CTFA names); the addition products of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 4 to 100 oxyethylene groups and more particularly those containing from 4 to 45 oxyethylene groups (Ceteth-4 to Ceteth-45 in CTFA names);ethylene oxide addition products with stearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 4 to 100 oxyethylene groups (Steareth-4 to Steareth-100 in CTFA names); ethylene oxide addition products with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing 4 to 50 oxyethylene groups (Isosteareth-4 to Isosteareth-50 in CTFA names); ethylene oxide addition products with decyl alcohol, in particular those containing 3, 4 or 5 oxyethylene groups (Deceth-3, Deceth-4, Deceth-5 in CTFA names); ethylene oxide addition products with oleyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 4 to 150 oxyethylene groups and more particularly those containing from 4 to 106 oxyethylene groups (Oleth-4 to Oleth-106, in particular Oleth-30 in CTFA names); ethylene oxide addition products with isocetyl alcohol containing from 4 to 30 oxyethylene groups (for example Isoceteh-4, Isoceteh-10, Isoceteth-15, Isoceteth-20, Isoceteh-25) and mixtures thereof.

[0315] Non-ionic alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants can be represented by the following general formula: RlO-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - RI represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar motif containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

[0316] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants have the formula described above, in which: - RI designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -1 designates a value from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

[0317] The glucosidic linkages between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. C8 / Ci6-(poly)glucosides 1,4 are particularly preferred, especially decylglucosides and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.

[0318] The oxyethylenated sorbitan esters that may be used in the context of the invention include, in particular, oxyethylenated derivatives of mono- and polyesters of C8-C30 fatty acids and sorbitan, having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units. Preferably, oxyethylenated derivatives of mono- and polyesters of C12-C24 fatty acids and sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, are used.

[0319] Such compounds are also known as polysorbates. They are marketed, among other places, under the name TWEEN by the company UNIQEMA.

[0320] Examples include sorbitan oxyethylene monolaurate with 4 OE, for example marketed under the name TWEEN 21, sorbitan oxyethylene monolaurate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 20, sorbitan oxyethylene monopalmitate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 40, sorbitan oxyethylene monostearate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 60, sorbitan oxyethylene monostearate with 4 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 61, sorbitan oxyethylene tristearate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 65, sorbitan oxyethylene monooleate with 20 OE, e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 80, 5 OE sorbitan oxyethylene mono-oleate e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 81, 20 OE sorbitan oxyethylene tri-oleate e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 85.

[0321] In the present disclosure, and in a manner well known in itself, the term "X OE compound" refers to an oxyethylenated compound comprising X oxyethylene motifs per molecule.

[0322] Preferably, the fatty acid of the oxyethylenated sorbitan ester is a saturated fatty acid, in particular in Ci2-C24.

[0323] Preferred sorbitan esters are oxyethylenated derivatives of Ci2-C24 fatty acid monoesters and sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, more preferably 4 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, 20 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, 20 EO oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0324] Preferably, non-ionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohols, better still from the addition products of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, the addition products of ethylene oxide with decyl alcohol, the addition products of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof; in particular those having from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, preferably from 2 to 30 oxyethylene groups, and mixtures thereof, better laureth-12, oleth-30, deceth-3, deceth-5 and mixtures thereof.

[0325] Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 35% by weight, preferably ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, in particular ranging from 5 to 35% by weight, and even better from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0326] Non-ionic polysaccharide(s) The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0327] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0328] According to the invention, polysaccharides are also called sugar motif polymers.

[0329] By "sugar motif" in the present invention means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.

[0330] The sugar motifs may optionally be modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0331] The sugar motifs of the non-ionic polysaccharides are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; and fructose.

[0332] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) usable in the composition according to the invention are chosen from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, associative non-ionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

[0333] Examples of non-ionic non-associative polysaccharides include native gums such as: a) exudates from trees or shrubs; b) gums derived from algae, including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); c) gums from seeds or tubers, including: - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - carob gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose); d) microbial gums, including: - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer); e) plant extracts including: - cellulose (polymer of glucose); - starch (polymer of glucose) and - inulin.

[0334] These polysaccharides can be modified by physical or chemical means. Temperature is one example of a physical treatment.

[0335] Examples of chemical treatments include esterification, etherification, amidation, and oxidation reactions. These treatments also allow the production of non-ionic polymers.

[0336] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0337] The non-ionic guar gums usable according to the invention can be modified by (poly)hydroxylakyl groups in C1 to C6.

[0338] Among the (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups in C1 to C6, we can mention by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0339] These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum in order to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

[0340] The degree of hydroxyalkylation varies preferably from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0341] Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

[0342] Starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch, such as, in particular, maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, Barley, peas, or wheat. Hydrolyzed starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

[0343] Starches can be modified by chemical or physical means: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.

[0344] The non-ionic non-associative polysaccharides of the invention may be cellulosic polymers not comprising a fatty chain at C10 to C30 in their structure.

[0345] By "cellulosic" polymer, according to the invention, any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues joined by [3-1,4] bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

[0346] Thus, the cellulosic polymers usable according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses including in microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers.

[0347] Among these cellulosic polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0348] Among cellulose esters are inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, or phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates, or acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetatebutyratesulfates and acetatepropionate sulfates. Examples of cellulose ether esters include hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0349] Among non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C8 to C30 fat chain i.e. “non-associative”, we can cite (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed celluloses (poly)hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl-(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

[0350] The non-associative non-ionic polysaccharide(s) may advantageously be selected from non-ionic cellulose ethers without a fat chain in the C8 to C30 range. and their mixtures, more preferably among hydroxyethylcelluloses and their mixtures.

[0351] According to this embodiment, the total content of non-ionic non-associative polysaccharide(s) present in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2 to 3% by weight, better from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0352] As examples of non-ionic polysaccharides that can be used in the invention, associative non-ionic polysaccharides may also be mentioned.

[0353] It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

[0354] Their chemical structure includes more particularly at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

[0355] By "hydrophobic group" is meant a radical or hydrocarbon chain polymer, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0356] Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It may also refer to a hydrocarbon polymer such as polybutadiene.

[0357] The associative polysaccharides usable according to the invention can be chosen from among non-ionic associative polysaccharides, preferably from among non-ionic associative celluloses and non-ionic associative galactomannan gums.

[0358] Preferably, the associative non-ionic polysaccharides are selected from: (1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; preferably from: - Hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably at C8 to C22, such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (alkyls at C16) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland, - hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL, - and their mixtures; (2) Hydroxypropylguars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA.

[0359] Non-ionic associative polysaccharides may advantageously be selected from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably at C8 to C22-

[0360] According to this embodiment, the total content of associative non-ionic polysaccharide(s) present in the composition according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2 to 3% by weight, better 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0361] Preferably, the non-ionic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from among non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, and more particularly from among non-ionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain in C8 to C30; more preferably from among hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and better still from among hydroxyethylcelluloses.

[0362] Preferably, the total content of non-ionic polysaccharide(s) present in the composition according to the invention is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2 to 3% by weight, better from 0.3 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic polymer(s)

[0363] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more cationic polymers different from the cationic polymers described above.

[0364] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers different from the cationic polymers described above.

[0365] These additional polymers are therefore chosen from among the non-associative cationic polymers.

[0366] The term "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer (not containing silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

[0367] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents / gram (meq / g), better less than or equal to 4 meq / g.

[0368]

[0369]

[0370]

[0371]

[0372] The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charge per unit mass of polymer under conditions where it is fully ionized. It can be determined by calculation if the polymer structure is known, that is, the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportions. It can also be determined experimentally using the Kjeldahl method. The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106. Among the cationic polymers that may be used are: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following formula units: r3 R, R, —CHj— C— 1 1 —Chc —ch.>-c— —CH„- c— ' 1 1 ac ' 1 0=0 1 G =CQ=C 1 io 1 r NH 1 NH y- 1 A 1 7 r5 in which: - R3, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - RI and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers which may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (Ci-C4), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

[0373] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention: - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quantified with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES, - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyeth yltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or the products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937"; - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP; - Quatmized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, - Polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4)trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil may be used in particular. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA. A crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester, can also be used. These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by CIBA.

[0374] (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and gums of cationic galactomannans.

[0375] Among cationic polysaccharides, particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and cationic galactomannan gums.

[0376] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group.

[0377] We can mention in particular the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.

[0378] Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described, in particular, in US patent 4,131,576; examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. Quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses, crosslinked or not, are particularly noteworthy, the quaternizing agent being, in particular, diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium is especially noteworthy.

[0379] Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

[0380] As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, one can notably mention the polymer with INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

[0381] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307; examples include cationic guar gums, especially those containing trialkylammonium cationic groups, particularly trimethylammonium. Examples include guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

[0382] Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched by trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, particular mention may be made of the groups trimethylammonium and triethylammonium. More preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

[0383] Examples include products with the INCI names "HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" and "GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE". Such products are marketed, in particular, under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

[0384] Among the cationic polysaccharides that may be used, cationic derivatives of cassia gum may also be mentioned, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, the product with the INCI name "CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE" may be mentioned.

[0385] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched hydroxyalkylene chains, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.

[0386] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

[0387] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are derived from polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation with bifunctional agents. An example is the adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymer, in which the alkyl group has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.

[0388] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.

[0389] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as their main chain constituent motifs corresponding to formulas (I) or (II): ----CR,. -(CH J----C(R,2)-CH2- । r ~ j.' L H2C^ CH2 QH„ (0 y. (H) R R / R.ÎS in which - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - Rn designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - RiOet Rn, independently of each other, designate an alkyl group in CrC6, a hydroxyalkyl group in CrC5, an amidoalkyl group in Ci-C4; or Rio and Rn can designate together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably designate an alkyl group in CrC4; - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

[0390] One can cite in particular the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (name INCI POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

[0391] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: --N+-A.-N+—B,— 00} in which: - Rb, Ru, Ris and Ri6, whether identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in CrCi2, or Rn, RM, R[5 and R[6, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly including a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or Rn, R[4, Ri5 and Ri6 represent a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-Rp-D or -CO-NH-R i7-D group where Rn is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; - Al and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Al,R13 andR15 can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; Furthermore, if Al designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p- group, with n and p, identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D designating: a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2 CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

[0392] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have an average number molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.

[0393] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: 1: -N ■ N- (CH2k — OV) 1 v- ! x r 2 X r4 in which R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

[0394] A particularly preferred compound is that for which Rb R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, named Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

[0395] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising motifs of formula: — N+ - (CH A - NH - CO - (CHA - CO - NH (CKK - N+ - A — X- । I R1S (V) in which: - Ri8, R19, R2o and R2i, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2 CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R[8, R19, R20 and R2[ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, - X denotes an anion such as a halide, - A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

[0396] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

[0397] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF

[0398] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

[0399] (12) polymers comprising in their structure: (a) one or more patterns meeting the following formula (A): CH—CH — NH2 'A; (b) possibly one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (B): CH.—CH z | (B) NH—CH II O

[0400] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.

[0401] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers having in their structure 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).

[0402] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.

[0403] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.

[0404] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

[0405] Preferably, the cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the polymers of family (7) and in particular the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6) for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR"; as well as their mixtures.

[0406] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) other than the associative cationic polymers in a total amount from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0407] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants and / or at least one alkaline agent; - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic with 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one cationic associative polymer; - at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition - at least one fat that is different from fatty acids and different from vegetable oils, - at least one fatty acid.

[0408] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants and / or at least one alkaline agent; - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; And Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic with 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one cationic associative polymer; - at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition - at least one fat that is different from fatty acids and different from vegetable oils, - at least one fatty acid, - at least one non-ionic surfactant - at least one non-ionic polysaccharide.

[0409] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants and / or at least one alkaline agent; - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic with 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one cationic associative polymer; - at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition, - at least one fat that is different from fatty acids and different from vegetable oils, - at least one fatty acid, - at least one non-ionic surfactant - at least one non-ionic polysaccharide, - at least one cationic polymer other than associative cationic polymers.

[0410] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 15% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition. Additives

[0411] The composition according to the invention may optionally include one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which we may mention anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, different from those mentioned above, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and / or hair regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservatives.

[0412] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition(s).

[0413] The above additives may generally be present in quantities of each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.

[0414] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not include chemical oxidizing agents. Process

[0415] The present invention also relates to a method for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, which includes applying to said keratin fibers an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

[0416] The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers. After treatment, the keratin fibers may be rinsed with water, possibly washed with shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

[0417] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0418] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is mixed at the time of use with a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0419] According to this embodiment, at the time of use, the composition according to the invention results from the mixture of at least two compositions: a composition comprising: - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants and / or at least one alkaline agent; - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic with 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one cationic associative polymer; - at least one vegetable oil, the total vegetable oil content being greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0420] According to one embodiment, the process according to the invention includes a step of mixing the composition according to the invention with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the resulting composition to the hair.

[0421] According to this embodiment, the process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: a) a composition comprising: - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants and / or at least one alkaline agent; - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH group, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; And Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic with 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one cationic associative polymer; - at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0422] Preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0423] In a preferred embodiment, the process for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions: a) a coloring composition comprising: - at least one colorant, preferably chosen from oxidation colorants; - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic with 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one cationic associative polymer; - at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

[0424] More specifically, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, bromates or metal ferricyanides Alkali metals, peroxygenated salts such as persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide.

[0425] The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

[0426] It may also include one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

[0427] The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.

[0428] In addition, the oxidizing composition may include fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, surfactants, polymers.

[0429] Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when aqueous, is less than 7.

[0430] Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

[0431] Preferably, at least one of the compositions (colorant or oxidant) is aqueous. Kit

[0432] Another object of the invention is a multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.

[0433] The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, accompanied, optionally, by suitable application means, identical or different, such as brushes, sponges or brushes.

[0434] The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means for delivering the desired mixture onto the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

[0435] The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for the coloring and / or lightening of keratin fibers, preferably for the coloring of keratin fibers and in particular of hair.

[0436] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. Examples

[0437] In the following examples, all quantities are given as mass percentage of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated). Compositions

[0438] Colour compositions A, B and C were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% ma):

[0439] [Tables 1] A Inventi on B Comparatif C Comparatif ETHANOLAMINE 0,5 0,5 0,5 OLEIC ACID 2 2 2 OLETH-30 3,5 3,5 3,5 LAURETH-12 4,9 4,9 4,9 DECETH-5 3,1 3,1 3,1 DECETH-3 11.9 11.9 11.9 OLEYL ALCOHOL 1,8 1,8 1,8 COCAMIDE MIPA 4 4 4 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0,4 0,4 0,4 POLYQUATERNIUM-67 0,2 MA 0,2 MA - CETYL HYDROXYETHYLCELLU LOSE - - 0,2 MA POLYQUATERNIUM-6 0.8 0.8 0.8 GLYCERIN 3 3 3 FRAGRANCE / PARFUM 1 1 1 TRITICUM VULGARE GERM OIL 0.2 0.2 0.2 SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED O IL 0.2 0.2 0.2 COCOS NUCIFERA OIL 1 - 1 AMMONIUM THIOLACTATE 0.5 0.5 0.5 AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 3.3 3.3 3.3 ASCORBIC ACID 0.3 0.3 0.3 TOLUENE-2,5-DIAMINE (and) THIO GLYCERIN 0.4 0.4 0.4 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.1 0.1 0.1 2,4-DIAMINOPHENOXYETHANOL HCl 0.03 0.03 0.03 HYDROXYETHYL-3,4-METHYLENE DIOXYANILINE HCL 0.1 0.1 0.1 2-AMINO-3-HYDROXYPYRIDINE 0.06 0.06 0.06 6-HYDROXYINDOLE 0.06 0.06 0.06 HYDROXYBENZOMORPHOLINE 0.2 0.2 0.2 N,N-BIS(2-HYDROXYETHYL)-p-PHE NYLENEDIAMINE SULFATE 0.03 0.03 0.03 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIAC ETATE 0.2 0.2 0.2 WATER / AQUA QS 100 QS 100 QS 100

[0440] At the time of use, each of the colorant compositions A, B, and C is mixed with 1 times its weight of a 25-volume oxidizing composition (i.e., 7.5% by weight of H2O2). Each of the mixtures is then applied to a strand of 90% permed white hair at a rate of 5g of mixture per gram of hair.

[0441] After 30 minutes of application on a plate thermostatically controlled at 27°C, the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo, and dried. Results

[0442] The colorimetric measurements were carried out using a KONICA MINOLTA-CM-3600A spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

[0443] In this system, L* represents intensity: the lower the value of L*, the darker, more powerful, more intense the color. Chromaticity is measured by the values ​​a* and b*, with a* representing the green / red color axis and b* the blue / yellow color axis.

[0444] Selectivity is represented by the color difference AE between the unpermanent natural colored hair strands (BN) and the permed colored strands (BP), and is obtained by the following formula: âE =

[0445] In this equation, L*, a*, and b* represent the values ​​measured on strands of natural, unpermanent colored hair (BN), and Lo*, a0*, and b0* represent the values ​​measured on strands of permed colored hair (BP). The lower the value of AE, the lower the selectivity (homogeneous coloring), and therefore the better the result.

[0446] The results obtained are grouped in the table below:

[0447] [Tables3] Composition applied Type of hair L* a* b* AE A + O (invention) BN 25.39 4.06 7.28 1.8 BP 23.59 4.04 7.07 B + O (comparative) BN 28.79 3.81 8.48 5.4 BP 23.95 3.41 6.24 C + O (comparative) BN 29.14 3.68 8.57 7.1 BP 22.53 3.44 5.94

[0448] Composition A according to the invention, comprising a cationic associative polymer according to the invention and a vegetable oil content according to the invention, leads to a lower AE value compared to composition B, which does not include a vegetable oil content as claimed, and composition C, which does not include a cationic associative polymer as claimed. Composition A therefore results in a color with lower selectivity; in other words, the color obtained with composition A is more homogeneous.

Claims

67 Claims

1. Composition comprising: - at least one colorant, preferably selected from oxidation colorants and / or at least one alkali agent; - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and Represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one cationic associative polymer; - at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the total vegetable oil(s) content varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, better from 1.2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one colorant selected from direct colorants, oxidation colorants and mixtures thereof, preferably from oxidation colorants and mixtures thereof.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one coupler, preferably selected from 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, 3,4-hydroxyethylmethylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and / or the solvates of its salts and their mixtures.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one oxidation base, preferably selected from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and corresponding addition salts, solvated, solvated salts and mixtures thereof; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-[3-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and / or solvates of their salts and mixtures thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one alkali agent, preferably selected from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine; ammonium hydroxide, carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonates, alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from alkanolamines and ammonium hydroxide, better from alkanolamines, even better, monoethanolamine.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polycarboxylic acid(s) of formula (I) are selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)aspartic acid, their alkali metal salts, their alkaline earth metal salts, their transition metal salts, their organic amine salts, their ammonium salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their solvates and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-glutamate, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and mixtures thereof; more preferably N,N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic acid, tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxymethyl)-L-glutamate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably tetrasodium glutamate diacetate.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the cationic associative polymer(s) are selected from quaternized cellulose derivatives, preferably from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof, better, from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one alkyl group containing at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably ranging from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably ranging from 12 to 16 carbon atoms.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the vegetable oil(s) is / are selected from vegetable triglycerides, or mixtures thereof, more preferably coconut oil.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fat other than fatty acids and other than vegetable oils, preferably chosen from liquid fats, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols, better, oleic alcohol.

11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty acid, preferably selected from fatty acids having at least one carboxylic acid group and one unsaturated linear or branched alkyl chain, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably selected from liquid fatty acids, in particular selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably oleic acid

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant, preferably selected from non-ionic surfactants, more preferably selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty alcohols, more preferably from the addition products of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, the addition products of ethylene oxide with decyl alcohol, the addition products of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol and mixtures thereof; in particular those comprising from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, preferably from 2 to 30 oxyethylene groups, and their mixtures, better laureth-12, oleth-30, deceth-3, deceth-5 and their mixtures.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-ionic polysaccharide, preferably selected from non-associative non-ionic polysaccharides, and more particularly from non-ionic cellulose ethers without C8 to C30 fat chains; more preferably from hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses, and better still from hydroxyethylcelluloses.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising any chemical oxidizing agent.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

16. A method for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising applying to said keratin fibers the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

17. A process for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition defined according to claim 14 is obtained from the mixture of at least two compositions: a) a composition comprising, - at least one dye, preferably chosen from oxidation dyes and / or at least one alkaline agent; - at least one polycarboxylic acid of the following formula (I), its salts, their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, and / or their solvates: RrN-(CH(R2)COOH)2 (I) in which Ri represents a hydrogen atom or a group -CH(COOH)-(CH 2)2-COOH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH(CH3)COOH, -(CH2)2N(COR3)-CH2-COOH, or -CH(COOH)-CH2-COOH; and represents a CH2COOH group when Ri represents a hydrogen atom, or R2 represents a hydrogen atom when Ri is not a hydrogen atom; and R3 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or cyclic comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms; - at least one cationic associative polymer; - at least one vegetable oil, the total content of vegetable oil(s) being greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition and b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

18. A multi-compartment device, preferably two compartments, for coloring and / or lightening keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 13 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.